Re: [bolger] Re: SIngleHander Schooner boom and gaff questions
On Thu, 2006-05-04 at 05:30 +0000, Susan Davis wrote:
notch and then tie off on one side of the dowel rod or the other. Got
it!
or the head. Would you say three along the bottom of the foresail and 4
along the bottom of the main sail be adequate ? I assume three or so
along the head tied to the gaffs would be reasonable as well.
3. Main peak halyard 1/4" by 26': standing end around gaff around gaff
18" below peak.
4. Main throat halyard 1/4" by 26': standing end around gaff above jaws.
but it sound like your experience implies holes are best. Thanks.
Thanks
Chris Kottaridis (chriskot@...)
> > There's an inset on the sail plan page that shows "end of Booms".OK, so both outhaul for the sail and the topping lift go through the
> > It shows a notch in the end vertically and a dowel rod through the
> > boom horizontally.
>
> You cleat the outhaul and topping lift to this.
notch and then tie off on one side of the dowel rod or the other. Got
it!
>Got it thanks.
> > According to item #2 the topping lift passes through the notch to
> > the mast, I assume being tied to the dowel rod. I assume the sail
> > does not tie off through the notch.
>
> That's what I did. It's helpful to be able to adjust the foot
> tension, and cleating it to the topping lift cleat gives you the
> ability to do that.
>The sail plan didn't show any grommet holes along the foot of the sail
> > So, is the tack of the sail laced through the hole in the front of
> > the boom and then the clew tied around the dowel rod somehow,
> > leaving everything in between loose fitted?
>
> No. You do as you describe, and additionally bend the foot of the
> sail onto the boom by tying loops of line (which go through grommets
> in the foot) around the boom.
or the head. Would you say three along the bottom of the foresail and 4
along the bottom of the main sail be adequate ? I assume three or so
along the head tied to the gaffs would be reasonable as well.
>Ok
> > I assume the the throat of the sail ties to the hole under the jaws
> > of the gaff.
>
> Yes.
>
> > But, I don't see anything in the diagram about how the head
> > of the sail can attach to the end of the gaff? Should there be a
> > hole or a dowel rod there ?
>
> A hole.
>Ok
> > 2. Any advantage for the jaw that sits on top of the booms and
> > gaffs to be solid wood over plywood?
>
> No. Mine are plywood.
>Yep, you are right, I missed it in items #3 & #4:
> > 3. The lines drawn representing the peak and throat halyards just
> > go out to the gaff and touch it and stop. Are there supposed to be
> > holes in specific locations for the peak and throat halyards to tie
> > through
>
> Yes. In fact, I think the instructions mention this, and give a
> proposed distance from the end of the spar. If not, you can take the
> measurement off the plan.
3. Main peak halyard 1/4" by 26': standing end around gaff around gaff
18" below peak.
4. Main throat halyard 1/4" by 26': standing end around gaff above jaws.
but it sound like your experience implies holes are best. Thanks.
>Got it.
> > I guess by tying them you could slightly change their positions if
> > need be.
>
> Just tying them won't work -- the halyard will slip on the spar. You
> need to drill a hole.
Thanks
Chris Kottaridis (chriskot@...)
> There's an inset on the sail plan page that shows "end of Booms".You cleat the outhaul and topping lift to this.
> It shows a notch in the end vertically and a dowel rod through the
> boom horizontally.
> According to item #2 the topping lift passes through the notch toThat's what I did. It's helpful to be able to adjust the foot
> the mast, I assume being tied to the dowel rod. I assume the sail
> does not tie off through the notch.
tension, and cleating it to the topping lift cleat gives you the
ability to do that.
> So, is the tack of the sail laced through the hole in the front ofNo. You do as you describe, and additionally bend the foot of the
> the boom and then the clew tied around the dowel rod somehow,
> leaving everything in between loose fitted?
sail onto the boom by tying loops of line (which go through grommets
in the foot) around the boom.
> I assume the the throat of the sail ties to the hole under the jawsYes.
> of the gaff.
> But, I don't see anything in the diagram about how the headA hole.
> of the sail can attach to the end of the gaff? Should there be a
> hole or a dowel rod there ?
> 2. Any advantage for the jaw that sits on top of the booms andNo. Mine are plywood.
> gaffs to be solid wood over plywood?
> 3. The lines drawn representing the peak and throat halyards justYes. In fact, I think the instructions mention this, and give a
> go out to the gaff and touch it and stop. Are there supposed to be
> holes in specific locations for the peak and throat halyards to tie
> through
proposed distance from the end of the spar. If not, you can take the
measurement off the plan.
> I guess by tying them you could slightly change their positions ifJust tying them won't work -- the halyard will slip on the spar. You
> need be.
need to drill a hole.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
Chris,
All I know about the His and Her Schooner is the study plan in Boats With an Open Mind, but I did buid a Scooner several years ago.
On Scooner (aka Light Scooner), There were jaws on both the boom and the gaff. These were held to the mast with a piece of line which was passed through one "ear" of thejaw, around the mast, and through the other ear--with a stopper knot at each end. I found some wooden beads at a craft store which served as parrels.
There are several ways to lash a sail to a boom or gaff. The critical part is to get the corners of the sail where you want them. On a boat like this, this is usually done by drilling a hole in each end of the boom and tieing a line through a grommet at the appropriate cornertake turns through the holes in the boom grommet and tension the sail where you think you might like it. Then take a couple of turns tthrough the grommet and around the spar. This will stabilize the corners. Then you can tie the rest of the sail down with individual ties, a spiral line, or a series of half hitches. I use individual ties as this gives me scope to fiddle with the draft.
In regards to the jaws. these take a lot of strain in a jibe or if the gaff hans up when lowering the sail. Plywood jaws are less likely to split than natural wood (though you can run a couple of rivets through the jaw). Conventional wisdom is to screw the jaws to the spars to facilitate replacement if you bust one (thogh I never did have this problem)
With these very small sails, there is no need for a bunch of blocks. Halyards can be tied to the gaff. On some of his plans, PCB shows a homemade, wooden stop glued to the gaffs. (Drill the biggest hole you can in a block of wood, split the wood, round off the outside corners, and glue the stop to the gaff.)
Building any schooner is an exercise in spar making.While you are going through the process, you might as well make the tiller too. If you hit your local hardware store, you may find an ax handle which is the appropriate sizr and made of ash. Ash mkes a good tiller and someone else has done the work of carving and sanding it for you:>)
Have fun.
John T
All I know about the His and Her Schooner is the study plan in Boats With an Open Mind, but I did buid a Scooner several years ago.
On Scooner (aka Light Scooner), There were jaws on both the boom and the gaff. These were held to the mast with a piece of line which was passed through one "ear" of thejaw, around the mast, and through the other ear--with a stopper knot at each end. I found some wooden beads at a craft store which served as parrels.
There are several ways to lash a sail to a boom or gaff. The critical part is to get the corners of the sail where you want them. On a boat like this, this is usually done by drilling a hole in each end of the boom and tieing a line through a grommet at the appropriate cornertake turns through the holes in the boom grommet and tension the sail where you think you might like it. Then take a couple of turns tthrough the grommet and around the spar. This will stabilize the corners. Then you can tie the rest of the sail down with individual ties, a spiral line, or a series of half hitches. I use individual ties as this gives me scope to fiddle with the draft.
In regards to the jaws. these take a lot of strain in a jibe or if the gaff hans up when lowering the sail. Plywood jaws are less likely to split than natural wood (though you can run a couple of rivets through the jaw). Conventional wisdom is to screw the jaws to the spars to facilitate replacement if you bust one (thogh I never did have this problem)
With these very small sails, there is no need for a bunch of blocks. Halyards can be tied to the gaff. On some of his plans, PCB shows a homemade, wooden stop glued to the gaffs. (Drill the biggest hole you can in a block of wood, split the wood, round off the outside corners, and glue the stop to the gaff.)
Building any schooner is an exercise in spar making.While you are going through the process, you might as well make the tiller too. If you hit your local hardware store, you may find an ax handle which is the appropriate sizr and made of ash. Ash mkes a good tiller and someone else has done the work of carving and sanding it for you:>)
Have fun.
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Kottaridis
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 9:57 PM
Subject: [bolger] SIngleHander Schooner boom and gaff questions
I am starting work on the single Handed schooner. Due to current space
restrictions I am starting with the booms and gaffs. I've got some
uninformed questions that if anyone can answer I'd appreciate it:
1. I am not entirely sure how the sails attach onto the booms and gaffs.
There's an inset on the sail plan page that shows "end of Booms". It
shows a notch in the end vertically and a dowel rod through the boom
horizontally. There is also an inset that shows "Boom & Gaff Jaws" that
looks like there is a hole horizontally through the front end of the
booms and gaffs.From the sail plan picture it doesn't look like there is
any loops around the boom or gaff for the sail like there are for the
mast.
According to item #2 the topping lift passes through the notch to the
mast, I assume being tied to the dowel rod. I assume the sail does not
tie off through the notch.
So, is the tack of the sail laced through the hole in the front of
the boom and then the clew tied around the dowel rod somehow, leaving
everything in between loose fitted?
I assume the the throat of the sail ties to the hole under the jaws
of the gaff. But, I don't see anything in the diagram about how the head
of the sail can attach to the end of the gaff ? Should there be a hole
or a dowel rod there ?
2. Any advantage for the jaw that sits on top of the booms and gaffs to
be solid wood over plywood ? I think I have some mahogany that is large
enough, otherwise it'll be BS6566 mahogany plywood.
3. The lines drawn representing the peak and throat halyards just go out
to the gaff and touch it and stop. Are there supposed to be holes in
specific locations for the peak and throat halyards to tie through or do
you just tie a good knot around the gaff where it seems appropriate?
I guess by tying them you could slightly change their positions if need
be.
Thanks
Chris Kottaridis (chriskot@...)
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I am starting work on the single Handed schooner. Due to current space
restrictions I am starting with the booms and gaffs. I've got some
uninformed questions that if anyone can answer I'd appreciate it:
1. I am not entirely sure how the sails attach onto the booms and gaffs.
There's an inset on the sail plan page that shows "end of Booms". It
shows a notch in the end vertically and a dowel rod through the boom
horizontally. There is also an inset that shows "Boom & Gaff Jaws" that
looks like there is a hole horizontally through the front end of the
booms and gaffs.From the sail plan picture it doesn't look like there is
any loops around the boom or gaff for the sail like there are for the
mast.
According to item #2 the topping lift passes through the notch to the
mast, I assume being tied to the dowel rod. I assume the sail does not
tie off through the notch.
So, is the tack of the sail laced through the hole in the front of
the boom and then the clew tied around the dowel rod somehow, leaving
everything in between loose fitted?
I assume the the throat of the sail ties to the hole under the jaws
of the gaff. But, I don't see anything in the diagram about how the head
of the sail can attach to the end of the gaff ? Should there be a hole
or a dowel rod there ?
2. Any advantage for the jaw that sits on top of the booms and gaffs to
be solid wood over plywood ? I think I have some mahogany that is large
enough, otherwise it'll be BS6566 mahogany plywood.
3. The lines drawn representing the peak and throat halyards just go out
to the gaff and touch it and stop. Are there supposed to be holes in
specific locations for the peak and throat halyards to tie through or do
you just tie a good knot around the gaff where it seems appropriate?
I guess by tying them you could slightly change their positions if need
be.
Thanks
Chris Kottaridis (chriskot@...)
restrictions I am starting with the booms and gaffs. I've got some
uninformed questions that if anyone can answer I'd appreciate it:
1. I am not entirely sure how the sails attach onto the booms and gaffs.
There's an inset on the sail plan page that shows "end of Booms". It
shows a notch in the end vertically and a dowel rod through the boom
horizontally. There is also an inset that shows "Boom & Gaff Jaws" that
looks like there is a hole horizontally through the front end of the
booms and gaffs.From the sail plan picture it doesn't look like there is
any loops around the boom or gaff for the sail like there are for the
mast.
According to item #2 the topping lift passes through the notch to the
mast, I assume being tied to the dowel rod. I assume the sail does not
tie off through the notch.
So, is the tack of the sail laced through the hole in the front of
the boom and then the clew tied around the dowel rod somehow, leaving
everything in between loose fitted?
I assume the the throat of the sail ties to the hole under the jaws
of the gaff. But, I don't see anything in the diagram about how the head
of the sail can attach to the end of the gaff ? Should there be a hole
or a dowel rod there ?
2. Any advantage for the jaw that sits on top of the booms and gaffs to
be solid wood over plywood ? I think I have some mahogany that is large
enough, otherwise it'll be BS6566 mahogany plywood.
3. The lines drawn representing the peak and throat halyards just go out
to the gaff and touch it and stop. Are there supposed to be holes in
specific locations for the peak and throat halyards to tie through or do
you just tie a good knot around the gaff where it seems appropriate?
I guess by tying them you could slightly change their positions if need
be.
Thanks
Chris Kottaridis (chriskot@...)