Re: paint removal-help
Well you have my sympathy. I looked at the "Eco-Strip" bit from Harry
James but my observation is that heat is heat.
Marine paint is more tenacious than Latex house paint. Random orbit
sanders are better than any others. I rather think that the types of
remover such as "Marine Safety Strip" are relatively painless compared
to cheaper removers but the cost is horrendous.
Badly bonded paint should scrape off fairly easily using a heat gun
and scraper. Well bonded paint need not be removed rather should be
sanded to obtain a smooth finish coat. That is unless you want to
finish bright. If that is the case then either you spend a lot of
money or a lot of labor.
When I stripped my last project (Interthan Plus) I sanded with the
random orbit sander. Though tedious it was relatively easy.
Refinishing the transoms on my Nereia Pram was much more work for the
size of the project since it was getting through a quality varnish
down to the epoxy layer. I used a heat gun, scraped and then finish
sanded. But that was only about 7 square feet.
I think a heat gun can do anything the "Eco-Strip" tool can do but the
Eco-Strip is probably more easily controlled.
Again, good luck. Bob Chamberland
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
James but my observation is that heat is heat.
Marine paint is more tenacious than Latex house paint. Random orbit
sanders are better than any others. I rather think that the types of
remover such as "Marine Safety Strip" are relatively painless compared
to cheaper removers but the cost is horrendous.
Badly bonded paint should scrape off fairly easily using a heat gun
and scraper. Well bonded paint need not be removed rather should be
sanded to obtain a smooth finish coat. That is unless you want to
finish bright. If that is the case then either you spend a lot of
money or a lot of labor.
When I stripped my last project (Interthan Plus) I sanded with the
random orbit sander. Though tedious it was relatively easy.
Refinishing the transoms on my Nereia Pram was much more work for the
size of the project since it was getting through a quality varnish
down to the epoxy layer. I used a heat gun, scraped and then finish
sanded. But that was only about 7 square feet.
I think a heat gun can do anything the "Eco-Strip" tool can do but the
Eco-Strip is probably more easily controlled.
Again, good luck. Bob Chamberland
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
>
> I have spent the last few hours removing the paint
> from a 20' wooden mast, using a heat gun and scraper.
> It is pleasant enough work, in the shade at a
> comfortable height. But the amount of time it has
> taken makes me doubt whether I have the patience to
> strip the hull by the same method. The boat is strip
> planked mahogany, the deckhosue is teak, and the deck
> and deckhouse top are glass over ply. The boat has
> fresh (last year's) paint over failing old paint. It
> all has to come off. I have a recommendation for a
> stripper, but enough to do a thirty-one foot boat
> ain't cheap. Anybody have an idea of how best to get
> her to wood? Thanks. Sam
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
>http://mail.yahoo.com
>
Try this link
http://www.eco-strip.com/
HJ
Sam Glasscock wrote:
http://www.eco-strip.com/
HJ
Sam Glasscock wrote:
> I have spent the last few hours removing the paint
> from a 20' wooden mast, using a heat gun and scraper.
> It is pleasant enough work, in the shade at a
> comfortable height. But the amount of time it has
> taken makes me doubt whether I have the patience to
> strip the hull by the same method. The boat is strip
> planked mahogany, the deckhosue is teak, and the deck
> and deckhouse top are glass over ply. The boat has
> fresh (last year's) paint over failing old paint. It
> all has to come off. I have a recommendation for a
> stripper, but enough to do a thirty-one foot boat
> ain't cheap. Anybody have an idea of how best to get
> her to wood? Thanks. Sam
>
>
>
I have spent the last few hours removing the paint
from a 20' wooden mast, using a heat gun and scraper.
It is pleasant enough work, in the shade at a
comfortable height. But the amount of time it has
taken makes me doubt whether I have the patience to
strip the hull by the same method. The boat is strip
planked mahogany, the deckhosue is teak, and the deck
and deckhouse top are glass over ply. The boat has
fresh (last year's) paint over failing old paint. It
all has to come off. I have a recommendation for a
stripper, but enough to do a thirty-one foot boat
ain't cheap. Anybody have an idea of how best to get
her to wood? Thanks. Sam
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
from a 20' wooden mast, using a heat gun and scraper.
It is pleasant enough work, in the shade at a
comfortable height. But the amount of time it has
taken makes me doubt whether I have the patience to
strip the hull by the same method. The boat is strip
planked mahogany, the deckhosue is teak, and the deck
and deckhouse top are glass over ply. The boat has
fresh (last year's) paint over failing old paint. It
all has to come off. I have a recommendation for a
stripper, but enough to do a thirty-one foot boat
ain't cheap. Anybody have an idea of how best to get
her to wood? Thanks. Sam
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
And one more testament to my current belief that if you are not building
a disposable boat then you need to put quality materials into it. If it
is going to take more than 30 man hours or if you are plan on getting
more than two seasons from it then spend the money for MDO or marine
plywood.
HJ
Sam Glasscock wrote:
a disposable boat then you need to put quality materials into it. If it
is going to take more than 30 man hours or if you are plan on getting
more than two seasons from it then spend the money for MDO or marine
plywood.
HJ
Sam Glasscock wrote:
> --- Nels <arvent@...> wrote:
>
>
>> I just realized that the one link I sent regarding a
>> Peter Lenihan
>> article also had a photo of a Bolger power cat.
>> Essenetially two
>> small Sneakeasy hulls joined at the hip.
>>
>
> Nels, that is Jim Pope's Saint Jan the Martyr. Jim
> had her built and finished her off beautifully.
> Unfortunately, the luan ply of which she was built did
> not hold up. When she started to deteriorate he was
> gracious enough to offer her for free on this site,
> and I took her and did enough work to enjoy her for a
> couple of years. She looked like two sneakeasies, but
> the hull bottoms were rockered, with a shoe keel.
> Friday I pulled her out of the water. You could have
> eaten her with a spoon. Reluctantly, I put the chain
> saw to her yesterday. Her construction was
> interesting, with box beams well reinforced with
> bulkheads, very light and stiff. Just a
> well-thought-out low-power cat, the only one of her
> design ever built. One less Bolger boat in the world.
> R.I.P.
>
>
--- Nels <arvent@...> wrote:
had her built and finished her off beautifully.
Unfortunately, the luan ply of which she was built did
not hold up. When she started to deteriorate he was
gracious enough to offer her for free on this site,
and I took her and did enough work to enjoy her for a
couple of years. She looked like two sneakeasies, but
the hull bottoms were rockered, with a shoe keel.
Friday I pulled her out of the water. You could have
eaten her with a spoon. Reluctantly, I put the chain
saw to her yesterday. Her construction was
interesting, with box beams well reinforced with
bulkheads, very light and stiff. Just a
well-thought-out low-power cat, the only one of her
design ever built. One less Bolger boat in the world.
R.I.P.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
> I just realized that the one link I sent regarding aNels, that is Jim Pope's Saint Jan the Martyr. Jim
> Peter Lenihan
> article also had a photo of a Bolger power cat.
> Essenetially two
> small Sneakeasy hulls joined at the hip.
had her built and finished her off beautifully.
Unfortunately, the luan ply of which she was built did
not hold up. When she started to deteriorate he was
gracious enough to offer her for free on this site,
and I took her and did enough work to enjoy her for a
couple of years. She looked like two sneakeasies, but
the hull bottoms were rockered, with a shoe keel.
Friday I pulled her out of the water. You could have
eaten her with a spoon. Reluctantly, I put the chain
saw to her yesterday. Her construction was
interesting, with box beams well reinforced with
bulkheads, very light and stiff. Just a
well-thought-out low-power cat, the only one of her
design ever built. One less Bolger boat in the world.
R.I.P.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
I just realized that the one link I sent regarding a Peter Lenihan
article also had a photo of a Bolger power cat. Essenetially two
small Sneakeasy hulls joined at the hip.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/01/articles/champlain/index.htm
Also found some photos of Lestat.
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger3/photos/browse/624d
Peter mentions Bud McIntosh's "How To Build A Wooden Boat" regarding
his keel build.
I suggest this book also be considered regarding building a
strongback and also companionway and hatch construction.
As well as the brass "slide tongue straps" on the hatch, Peter's use
of UHMW-PE bearing strips on the washboard even improves Bud's
design:-) No binding together with a good solid seal.
Nels
article also had a photo of a Bolger power cat. Essenetially two
small Sneakeasy hulls joined at the hip.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/01/articles/champlain/index.htm
Also found some photos of Lestat.
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger3/photos/browse/624d
Peter mentions Bud McIntosh's "How To Build A Wooden Boat" regarding
his keel build.
I suggest this book also be considered regarding building a
strongback and also companionway and hatch construction.
As well as the brass "slide tongue straps" on the hatch, Peter's use
of UHMW-PE bearing strips on the washboard even improves Bud's
design:-) No binding together with a good solid seal.
Nels