Re: [bolger] Re: Anyone Here Build A Windermere?

Yes, I am fascinated with the Windermere, but have never heard of a trawler
version. Sounds like something Phil is working on. Has he provided a
description? Thanks,




Bolger faxed me the cartoons.









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yes, I am fascinated with the Windermere, but have never heard of a trawler
version. Sounds like something Phil is working on. Has he provided a
description? Thanks,



Eric



BTW, does anyone know the loaded weight of a Windermere (Peter?).



-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Mike
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 6:30 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Anyone Here Build A Windermere?



Trawler version? Can someone please point me to this one.

thanks.

Mike

--- In HYPERLINK "mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com"bolger@yahoogroups.-com,
"Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@-...> wrote:
>
> --- In HYPERLINK "mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com"bolger@yahoogroups.-com,
"Waldo F. Odonahue" <waldofo@> wrote:
> >
> > Is Peter building the trawler version?




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Waldo F. Odonahue" <waldofo@...>
wrote:
> "tender 2 verb [ trans. ] offer or present (something) formally :
he tendered his resignation as leader. • offer (money) as
payment : she tendered her fare. • [ intrans. ] make a formal
written offer to carry out work, supply goods, or buy land, shares,
or another asset for a stated fixed price : firms of interior
decorators have been tendering for the work. • [ trans. ] make
such an offer giving (a stated fixed price) : what price should we
tender for a contract? noun an offer to carry out work, supply
goods, or buy land, shares, or another asset at a stated fixed
price. PHRASES put something out to tender seek offers to carry out
work or supply goods at a stated fixed price."
>
>
> Example, government procure goods and services by allowing
suppliers to compete with each other by "bidding" on a material or
service contract. It like an auction - where you ask retailers,
wholesalers, manufacturers to bid [quote] against each other.
>
> This is how retailers, manufacturers buy their supplies and
services - if they want to stay in business. Anyone in the house
building business will be out of business if they don't use a formal
tendering process.
>
> One example, I needed 30 windows for a house I was building. 7
window manufactuers were contacted to see if they wanted to "bid"
(quote) on my contract. I then sent out a quotation request form
detailing size, style, number of windows etc.. The manufacturers
must return firm quotations in designated number of days. Then the
game begins. Each supplier is contacted - except the supplier with
lowest price - given the lowest price. It's time to sharpen
perncil! In my case the highest price supplier - reduced price by
30% to become the lowest price... and so on.
>
> By the way - "list price" or "retail price" are meaningless terms.
When I first started out in renovations - I thought I was getting a
good deal at a electrical wholesalers for house building (panels,
cable etc.) by getting 15% off "list price". Later on I found out
that others were getting 60% off list price! The only real price -
is the quote obtained through a formal tender.
>
>
> Go to Stapes and get a package of quotation forms. By a book to
get details or check out various web sites:
>
http://www.uregina.ca/presoff/vpadmin/policymanual/purchasing/4005.ht
ml
>


Hi Waldo,

Thanks for the explaination. I only have one dealer nearby for
the brand of outboard I am looking for. I checked out a few on the
internet and found a dealership in Ontario that sold for less.Went
to local dealer and asked if he could at least match their price.
Short answer: no.
Longer answer:No and we are already giving you a very good price and
extended warranty.If this isn't good enough,then go buy it in
Ontario.

I suppose being a single consumer,looking for a single one time
engine purchase doesn't give me much clout.On the other hand,were I
an outfitter at some fishing camp looking to re-fresh the engines in
my fleet of boats.....:-)

Good luck with you quest!


Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan,Windermere builder.........
Sorry,not familiar with process called"formal tendering"





,___


"tender 2 verb [ trans. ] offer or present (something) formally : he tendered his resignation as leader. • offer (money) as payment : she tendered her fare. • [ intrans. ] make a formal written offer to carry out work, supply goods, or buy land, shares, or another asset for a stated fixed price : firms of interior decorators have been tendering for the work. • [ trans. ] make such an offer giving (a stated fixed price) : what price should we tender for a contract? noun an offer to carry out work, supply goods, or buy land, shares, or another asset at a stated fixed price. PHRASES put something out to tender seek offers to carry out work or supply goods at a stated fixed price."


Example, government procure goods and services by allowing suppliers to compete with each other by "bidding" on a material or service contract. It like an auction - where you ask retailers, wholesalers, manufacturers to bid [quote] against each other.

This is how retailers, manufacturers buy their supplies and services - if they want to stay in business. Anyone in the house building business will be out of business if they don't use a formal tendering process.

One example, I needed 30 windows for a house I was building. 7 window manufactuers were contacted to see if they wanted to "bid" (quote) on my contract. I then sent out a quotation request form detailing size, style, number of windows etc.. The manufacturers must return firm quotations in designated number of days. Then the game begins. Each supplier is contacted - except the supplier with lowest price - given the lowest price. It's time to sharpen perncil! In my case the highest price supplier - reduced price by 30% to become the lowest price... and so on.

By the way - "list price" or "retail price" are meaningless terms. When I first started out in renovations - I thought I was getting a good deal at a electrical wholesalers for house building (panels, cable etc.) by getting 15% off "list price". Later on I found out that others were getting 60% off list price! The only real price - is the quote obtained through a formal tender.


Go to Stapes and get a package of quotation forms. By a book to get details or check out various web sites:
http://www.uregina.ca/presoff/vpadmin/policymanual/purchasing/4005.html






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bolger

Trawler version? Can someone please point me to this one.



ng dead horses
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Trawler version? Can someone please point me to this one.

thanks.

Mike


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Waldo F. Odonahue" <waldofo@> wrote:
> >
> > Is Peter building the trawler version?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Waldo F. Odonahue" <waldofo@...> wrote:
>
> Is Peter building the trawler version?

No.Peter is just about finished building the live-a-board sedan
version. He did not know that the "trawler version" was available yet.



Actually trying to find an affordable source for quality 2V
industrial batteries - I would need 12 for the trawler version.

Peter has 12 batteries also,per plan, but may be replacing their
weight with lead and going with a smaller battery bank combined with
solar panels after a nice long conversation with Jean Gauthier of soon-
to-be-launched AS-39 Le Cabotin fame. He has no source
for"affordable,quality" batteries.....hence his inclination to change
the set up.Mind you,it is important to replace the removed batteries
with the equivalent weight in ballast as these considerable battery
banks serve as de facto ballast for Windermere.


>
> As well I need to find a source for affordable prices on Yamaha
outboards. Has anyone ever used a formal tendering process to buy an
outboard?


Let me know when you find a source close to me :-)
Sorry,not familiar with process called"formal tendering"


Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Waldo F. Odonahue" <waldofo@...> wrote:
>
> 1) Anyone here build a Windermere?


Yes.....but not yet finished.
Are you interested in building one too?
Fire away with the questions,if you please :-)


Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan
Is Peter building the trawler version? Actually trying to find an affordable source for quality 2V industrial batteries - I would need 12 for the trawler version.

As well I need to find a source for affordable prices on Yamaha outboards. Has anyone ever used a formal tendering process to buy an outboard?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
"Gypsy is not weaving a little hear and there - it is fishtailing all
over the place."


This points me to the boat being trimmed "by the bow" If the bow is deeper
than the stern, the boat will be directionally unstable and seek to yaw
around and go stern first. When I was young I had a poorly designed dinghy
that would not track because the stern was higher than the bow. It would
only work if I rowed it backwards, sitting normally and pushing the oars
rather than pulling them. Before you do any physical mods try rowing stern
first and see if the boat can be controlled that way. If so, check out
changing the weight distribution as recommended in a previous post.

In his book Build the New Instant Boats, Harold Payson credits Gypsy as "an
excellent rower that tracked well, even without a skeg"

V/R
Chris





Bolger rules!!!
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- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
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Yahoo! Groups Links
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "gbship" <gbship@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@> wrote:
> >
> > I guess that I have a contrary view about this. In my
experience,
> > (Which is considerable; I have lost track of how many Bolger
boats I
> > have built, around ten): every time I have deviated from his
design,
> > trying to 'improve it', I have regretted the change, often for
> > surprising reasons. This would be especially true for something
as
> > major as changing the lateral plane, or 'improving' the rowing
> > capability. Remember that Phil Bolger had several decades of
> > experience designing and using row boats when he designed Gypsy
and it
> > is safe to say that he knew what he was doing when he designed
her the
> > way he did.
> >
> Hear, hear! That little skeg does make a huge difference in the
ability
> to control a boat like Gypsy under oars -- it keeps the stern from
> swinging all over the place. In BWAOM Bolger writes about one of
his
> powerboats with this general shape (but larger) and notes that it
will
> blow sideways in the slightest puff because of the lack of lateral
> resistance (I think he equipped it with a smallc enterboard for
that
> reason). Jim Michalak has written that his small sailboats are
designed

Boaters:

I appreciate your considerable experience and will try to put the
centerboard down or rig the rudder amidships before I try to add a
skeg. I have another boat, a little plywood pram, 9'6" and beamy.
A slow sailer but it must really bite the water because it is
heavy. It also has a semi-vee bottom and a skeg. I have taken that
boat up and down the river in all kinds of current and wind
conditions with no problems whatsoever. I remember the little
kicker dying on me once. The DNR man asked me how I was going to
get back to the dock with no motor. I said - no problem, all I need
are the oars and this was in about a 10 knot current in early
spring. He was concerned, I was not.

I think after reading your comments, Gypsy is light for the lenght
and has that flat bottom. I was in a flat bottom Coleman canoe once
in Canada during a windy day and I was going sideways with no chance
of making it back to my cabin. I guess it is the same thing.

Gypsy is not weaving a little hear and there - it is fishtailing all
over the place. Thanks for the suggestions.

Mike
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> I guess that I have a contrary view about this. In my experience,
> (Which is considerable; I have lost track of how many Bolger boats I
> have built, around ten): every time I have deviated from his design,
> trying to 'improve it', I have regretted the change, often for
> surprising reasons. This would be especially true for something as
> major as changing the lateral plane, or 'improving' the rowing
> capability. Remember that Phil Bolger had several decades of
> experience designing and using row boats when he designed Gypsy and it
> is safe to say that he knew what he was doing when he designed her the
> way he did.
>
Hear, hear! That little skeg does make a huge difference in the ability
to control a boat like Gypsy under oars -- it keeps the stern from
swinging all over the place. In BWAOM Bolger writes about one of his
powerboats with this general shape (but larger) and notes that it will
blow sideways in the slightest puff because of the lack of lateral
resistance (I think he equipped it with a smallc enterboard for that
reason). Jim Michalak has written that his small sailboats are designed
not only with a skeg but so that the leeboard is immersed a couple
inches when rowing to improve tracking. If you don't want a skeg,
you'll have to rig a way to center the tiller with the rudder a few
inches in the water, and maybe also the daggerboard down a few inches.
She ain't going to be a worthwile rower without some form of lateral
resistance. FWIW, I suspect the skep also improves handling when broad
reaching or running, especially in strong winds, when you have the
daggerboard mostly or entirely out of the water.

Gary Blankenship
Robert,
Got to jump in here. May I suggest that you may be trying to fix
something that may not need it. Before you start changing things just
shift some of the weight aft. If you don't have anything in the boat
find something like a 10 year old kid that needs a ride and put him at
the stern. He will have fun and you might have an easy fix. I have a
little 8' FG dingy that I rescued from a junk yard for $10 and rebuilt a
few year ago. Nice looking boat but short. I rowed 8 miles down the
river last week end. I put my grand son in the stern and it sat too low
but tracked well so I moved him just in front of me and the boat did not
track as well but was a faster. Should have taken a bigger cooler or a
small dog. More fun than fixin.

John
Peter Lenihan is as close to launching his Windermere as $($*& is to
swearing. Peter?

Bryant - sometimes envious not being on the shores of the St Lawrence.

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Waldo F. Odonahue" <waldofo@...> wrote:
>
> 1) Anyone here build a Windermere?
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
1) Anyone here build a Windermere?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I guess that I have a contrary view about this. In my experience,
(Which is considerable; I have lost track of how many Bolger boats I
have built, around ten): every time I have deviated from his design,
trying to 'improve it', I have regretted the change, often for
surprising reasons. This would be especially true for something as
major as changing the lateral plane, or 'improving' the rowing
capability. Remember that Phil Bolger had several decades of
experience designing and using row boats when he designed Gypsy and it
is safe to say that he knew what he was doing when he designed her the
way he did.
Hi Robert --

You're probably right about a skeg not ruining the sailing balance.
The best approach in this experimental phase might be to glue one on
with PL Premium, no screws, so you can plane it all off it it doesn't
work out. If it works, drill and screw for added security.

One last bit of data to add on the "tie-the-tiller-amidships" approach
-- when I did that, the tiller was in my way for the forward lean of
the rowing stroke.

All best,
Garth


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Miller" <millersail@...> wrote:
>
> it seems to me that the solution IS a small skeg just forward of the
rudder. This need not
> be of large area in that it is so far aft. I wouldn't worry too much
about lee helm from a
> small increase in lateral plane aft - too many other factors here.
In any case plenty of
> adjustments could overcome this even if it did occur (which it
probably won't).... eg:
> rudder is obvious choice if this is left in place while rowing
(though that alone would
> obviously give the correction in tracking ability you are looking
for under oars without the
> addition of a skeg), increase mast rake aft ever so slightly, shift
a bit of weight aft (things
> you might presently be stowing forward), etc. All of these would
counter any lee helm...
> which again, I would not strongly expect.
>
> I actually believe a small skeg aft could improve Gypsy's utility
overall.
>
> As to fastening to 1/4" ply .... after trials with skeg shape and
area, epoxy and screw the
> skeg to the bottom from above, and then fashion small fillets at the
junction of skeg and
> bottom on either side. They will improve water flow as well as add
the additional strength
> that may be desirable.
>
> Robert
>
it seems to me that the solution IS a small skeg just forward of the rudder. This need not
be of large area in that it is so far aft. I wouldn't worry too much about lee helm from a
small increase in lateral plane aft - too many other factors here. In any case plenty of
adjustments could overcome this even if it did occur (which it probably won't).... eg:
rudder is obvious choice if this is left in place while rowing (though that alone would
obviously give the correction in tracking ability you are looking for under oars without the
addition of a skeg), increase mast rake aft ever so slightly, shift a bit of weight aft (things
you might presently be stowing forward), etc. All of these would counter any lee helm...
which again, I would not strongly expect.

I actually believe a small skeg aft could improve Gypsy's utility overall.

As to fastening to 1/4" ply .... after trials with skeg shape and area, epoxy and screw the
skeg to the bottom from above, and then fashion small fillets at the junction of skeg and
bottom on either side. They will improve water flow as well as add the additional strength
that may be desirable.

Robert

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "GarthAB" <garth@...> wrote:
>
> I've had the same experience with my Gypsy. It spins as easily as a
> doughdish on the water. Adding a permanent skeg might lead to lee helm
> while sailing, if too much lateral resistance is concentrated aft. (I
> guess you could then add some more LR somewhere else forward to
> balance . . . )
>
> I had the idea (never acted upon) to fashion a "drop-in skeg," which
> would fasten to the transom in place of the rudder using the same
> attachment mechanism -- pintles & gudgeons, or the "Michalak slide,"
> or whatever you have -- but firmly perpendicular to the transom.
> Drawbacks would be:
> 1) takes up space when not in use; and likewise, you'd have to bring
> the rudder assembly aboard to row
> 2) if you are dropping sail and rowing home because of high
> winds/waves, the last thing you want to be doing is leaning over your
> transom lining up holes. The Michalak slide is best in that regard,
> but still, not fun to install in rough conditions.
>
> Come to think of it, #1 could be obviated by mounting the skeg
> off-center. Leave the rudder assembly in, but kick it up and tie it
> off. . . .
>
> Come to think of it, you could obviate #2 by making it an off-center,
> "drop-in, kick-up skeg." Let it pivot in the vertical plane, but keep
> it fixed in the horizontal . . . When the weather gets rough, haul up
> the rudder and drop down the skeg. Damn . . . I better call the Patent
> Office!
>
> Garth
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <skiffsalor2000@> wrote:
> >
> > I took my Gypsy out today for a couple of hours after work. The
> > wind didn't cooperate but I had a few moments (never enough).
> > Coming back to the dock I had to row it. I guess it is the river
> > current or wind or both but that boat will not go in a straight
> > line. I dug one oar in and then another trying to make it track.
> >
> > I have read other posts that say you need a skeg to make it track.
> > I really don't see how a 4" - 5" skeg is going to keep this boat on
> > line. It spins in a 360 if you let it. The only way to stop it -
> > dig one oar in. Adding a skeg will mean putting a small false keel
> > behind the last bulkhead. I don't think that will look too good but
> > I know I can screw in a skeg to 1/4" plywood either.
> >
> > I remember reading Payson's book that one of his buddies rowed a
> > Gypsy 100 miles in Maine. I wondered about that feat today when I
> > was trying to make 1/2 mile or less back to the boat dock - what a
> > struggle. Any ideas for an easy skeg for this boat will likely be
> > used.
> >
> > Mike
> >
>
I had the same problem with my Nymph - if I stopped rowing with the oars out of the water it would spin right around. I added the skeg shown in the plans and this greatly improved the tracking.

That having been said, I have also built a Gypsy and found it very easy to row, it does not need a skeg, IMHO. I would guess the problem is your rowing technique and/or the trim of the boat.

Paul

Mike <skiffsalor2000@...> wrote: I took my Gypsy out today for a couple of hours after work. The
wind didn't cooperate but I had a few moments (never enough).
Coming back to the dock I had to row it. I guess it is the river
current or wind or both but that boat will not go in a straight
line. I dug one oar in and then another trying to make it track.

I have read other posts that say you need a skeg to make it track.
I really don't see how a 4" - 5" skeg is going to keep this boat on
line. It spins in a 360 if you let it. The only way to stop it -
dig one oar in. Adding a skeg will mean putting a small false keel
behind the last bulkhead. I don't think that will look too good but
I know I can screw in a skeg to 1/4" plywood either.

I remember reading Payson's book that one of his buddies rowed a
Gypsy 100 miles in Maine. I wondered about that feat today when I
was trying to make 1/2 mile or less back to the boat dock - what a
struggle. Any ideas for an easy skeg for this boat will likely be
used.

Mike





__________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I've had the same experience with my Gypsy. It spins as easily as a
doughdish on the water. Adding a permanent skeg might lead to lee helm
while sailing, if too much lateral resistance is concentrated aft. (I
guess you could then add some more LR somewhere else forward to
balance . . . )

I had the idea (never acted upon) to fashion a "drop-in skeg," which
would fasten to the transom in place of the rudder using the same
attachment mechanism -- pintles & gudgeons, or the "Michalak slide,"
or whatever you have -- but firmly perpendicular to the transom.
Drawbacks would be:
1) takes up space when not in use; and likewise, you'd have to bring
the rudder assembly aboard to row
2) if you are dropping sail and rowing home because of high
winds/waves, the last thing you want to be doing is leaning over your
transom lining up holes. The Michalak slide is best in that regard,
but still, not fun to install in rough conditions.

Come to think of it, #1 could be obviated by mounting the skeg
off-center. Leave the rudder assembly in, but kick it up and tie it
off. . . .

Come to think of it, you could obviate #2 by making it an off-center,
"drop-in, kick-up skeg." Let it pivot in the vertical plane, but keep
it fixed in the horizontal . . . When the weather gets rough, haul up
the rudder and drop down the skeg. Damn . . . I better call the Patent
Office!

Garth




--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <skiffsalor2000@...> wrote:
>
> I took my Gypsy out today for a couple of hours after work. The
> wind didn't cooperate but I had a few moments (never enough).
> Coming back to the dock I had to row it. I guess it is the river
> current or wind or both but that boat will not go in a straight
> line. I dug one oar in and then another trying to make it track.
>
> I have read other posts that say you need a skeg to make it track.
> I really don't see how a 4" - 5" skeg is going to keep this boat on
> line. It spins in a 360 if you let it. The only way to stop it -
> dig one oar in. Adding a skeg will mean putting a small false keel
> behind the last bulkhead. I don't think that will look too good but
> I know I can screw in a skeg to 1/4" plywood either.
>
> I remember reading Payson's book that one of his buddies rowed a
> Gypsy 100 miles in Maine. I wondered about that feat today when I
> was trying to make 1/2 mile or less back to the boat dock - what a
> struggle. Any ideas for an easy skeg for this boat will likely be
> used.
>
> Mike
>
Is it possible that there is too much weight in the bow and the bow is
digging in? I have a narrow row boat/canoe that is very susceptible to
this.

RonB.


>> I took my Gypsy out today for a couple of hours after work. The
>> wind didn't cooperate but I had a few moments (never enough).
>> Coming back to the dock I had to row it. I guess it is the river
>> current or wind or both but that boat will not go in a straight
>> line. I dug one oar in and then another trying to make it track.
> I took my Gypsy out today for a couple of hours after work. The
> wind didn't cooperate but I had a few moments (never enough).
> Coming back to the dock I had to row it. I guess it is the river
> current or wind or both but that boat will not go in a straight
> line. I dug one oar in and then another trying to make it track.

Try no to oversteer with the oars. Instead of 100% vs. 0% steering, try
pulling 55% vs. 45%. Also be sure that the blades of the oars are exactly
perpendicular to the water and that you have a smooth blade entry and
blade exit technique. A long narrow sweetly curved hull shape
like gypsy should row nicely.
HJ:
I was just afraid it would eventually tear it up because of the
trailering and all the twisting around. In my other boat, it
actually has a keel so I screwed the skeg right into it.

Mike



--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
HJ Wrote:
Why can't you screw a skeg on through 1/4 inch? I would take it
down to
> bare whatever and epoxy and screw it in from the inside.
>
> HJ
>
> Mike wrote:
>
> > I took my Gypsy out today for a couple of hours after work. The
> > wind didn't cooperate but I had a few moments (never enough).
> > Coming back to the dock I had to row it. I guess it is the
river
> > current or wind or both but that boat will not go in a straight
> > line. I dug one oar in and then another trying to make it
track.
> >
> > I have read other posts that say you need a skeg to make it
track.
> > I really don't see how a 4" - 5" skeg is going to keep this boat
on
> > line. It spins in a 360 if you let it. The only way to stop it -

> > dig one oar in. Adding a skeg will mean putting a small false
keel
> > behind the last bulkhead. I don't think that will look too good
but
> > I know I can screw in a skeg to 1/4" plywood either.
> >
> > I remember reading Payson's book that one of his buddies rowed a
> > Gypsy 100 miles in Maine. I wondered about that feat today when
I
> > was trying to make 1/2 mile or less back to the boat dock - what
a
> > struggle. Any ideas for an easy skeg for this boat will likely
be
> > used.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-
subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Mike:

Try fixing the rudder amidships with a bungee or some such device. If
you don't care for that idea your best option is a skeg. It will work
the way it is supposed to. It isn't needed for sailing as the rudder
serves that function.

Joe T

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <skiffsalor2000@...> wrote:
>
> I took my Gypsy out today for a couple of hours after work. The
> wind didn't cooperate but I had a few moments (never enough).
> Coming back to the dock I had to row it. I guess it is the river
> current or wind or both but that boat will not go in a straight
> line. I dug one oar in and then another trying to make it track.
>
> I have read other posts that say you need a skeg to make it track.
> I really don't see how a 4" - 5" skeg is going to keep this boat on
> line. It spins in a 360 if you let it. The only way to stop it -
> dig one oar in. Adding a skeg will mean putting a small false keel
> behind the last bulkhead. I don't think that will look too good but
> I know I can screw in a skeg to 1/4" plywood either.
>
> I remember reading Payson's book that one of his buddies rowed a
> Gypsy 100 miles in Maine. I wondered about that feat today when I
> was trying to make 1/2 mile or less back to the boat dock - what a
> struggle. Any ideas for an easy skeg for this boat will likely be
> used.
>
> Mike
>
Why can't you screw a skeg on through 1/4 inch? I would take it down to
bare whatever and epoxy and screw it in from the inside.

HJ

Mike wrote:

> I took my Gypsy out today for a couple of hours after work. The
> wind didn't cooperate but I had a few moments (never enough).
> Coming back to the dock I had to row it. I guess it is the river
> current or wind or both but that boat will not go in a straight
> line. I dug one oar in and then another trying to make it track.
>
> I have read other posts that say you need a skeg to make it track.
> I really don't see how a 4" - 5" skeg is going to keep this boat on
> line. It spins in a 360 if you let it. The only way to stop it -
> dig one oar in. Adding a skeg will mean putting a small false keel
> behind the last bulkhead. I don't think that will look too good but
> I know I can screw in a skeg to 1/4" plywood either.
>
> I remember reading Payson's book that one of his buddies rowed a
> Gypsy 100 miles in Maine. I wondered about that feat today when I
> was trying to make 1/2 mile or less back to the boat dock - what a
> struggle. Any ideas for an easy skeg for this boat will likely be
> used.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
I took my Gypsy out today for a couple of hours after work. The
wind didn't cooperate but I had a few moments (never enough).
Coming back to the dock I had to row it. I guess it is the river
current or wind or both but that boat will not go in a straight
line. I dug one oar in and then another trying to make it track.

I have read other posts that say you need a skeg to make it track.
I really don't see how a 4" - 5" skeg is going to keep this boat on
line. It spins in a 360 if you let it. The only way to stop it -
dig one oar in. Adding a skeg will mean putting a small false keel
behind the last bulkhead. I don't think that will look too good but
I know I can screw in a skeg to 1/4" plywood either.

I remember reading Payson's book that one of his buddies rowed a
Gypsy 100 miles in Maine. I wondered about that feat today when I
was trying to make 1/2 mile or less back to the boat dock - what a
struggle. Any ideas for an easy skeg for this boat will likely be
used.

Mike