Re: Long Dory Launched
Many thanks to Bruce, Chris, Gary, Peter, and Maximo for the kind
remarks about my Long Dory. She is definitely a head-turner if do
say so myself. In answer to some of the questions:
1) We don't get much surf on the lakes out here, but certainly rough
water and whitecaps are common. I'll post an update if I get caught
out by one of the afternoon thunder boomers. These storms can be a
couple of miles away and suddenly hammer the lake with wind. We were
forced to retreat in the cat-schooner just last week by 30 knot winds
that seemed to come out of nowhere. One of my requirements to PCB
when asking about a rowboat was for something that could get us
safely to shore when this happens - Long Dory was his answer.
2) I would estimate her weight at between 110 and 140 pounds, but I
don't have a good method to weigh boats, especially since my shop is
not within 60 miles of any trailer scales. Perhaps something with a
bathroom scale can be worked out. Bolger says on the plans that the
prototype used oak for the solid wood parts and weighed 150 pounds.
I used Phillipine mahogany, Honduras mahogany, and fir. Two men can
carry her a short distance, but...
3) I built a dolly to move her around, using some heavy duty
pnuematic casters from the Harbor Freight store in town. Using ramps
and a 16' utility trailer, I just wheeled her up on the bed and
strapped the combination down. This method failed on dirt roads,
however, because the caster tires didn't have enough air and created
a bouncing effect that cast off the tiedown hooks. In the future,
she'll go to the lake on cradles bolted to the bed of the utility
trailer and launched with the dolly once there. It might be possible
to cartop this boat if the racks were far enough apart and you had
some help to get her on the roof.
4) The boat is very tender when you first step in! Once seated,
however, it felt stable, and would likely feel even more so with two
aboard. Exactly what I've read about dories. The Michalak Robote
felt much more stable on entry, BTW.
5) Round oarlocks are what I've switched to, but I haven't yet had a
chance to try them out. I suspect that practice, practice, practice,
is the ultimate solution, but I'll feel better knowing I can't lose
the locks.
6) The length of the oars doesn't seem to be the problem, and since
PCB is such an experienced oarsman, I'm not inclined to deviate from
his specification of 7-footers. Incidentally, this boat has four oar
locations, all with different beam distances, so finding the correct
oar length is somewhat relative to begin with.
Thanks again for the kind words,
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
remarks about my Long Dory. She is definitely a head-turner if do
say so myself. In answer to some of the questions:
1) We don't get much surf on the lakes out here, but certainly rough
water and whitecaps are common. I'll post an update if I get caught
out by one of the afternoon thunder boomers. These storms can be a
couple of miles away and suddenly hammer the lake with wind. We were
forced to retreat in the cat-schooner just last week by 30 knot winds
that seemed to come out of nowhere. One of my requirements to PCB
when asking about a rowboat was for something that could get us
safely to shore when this happens - Long Dory was his answer.
2) I would estimate her weight at between 110 and 140 pounds, but I
don't have a good method to weigh boats, especially since my shop is
not within 60 miles of any trailer scales. Perhaps something with a
bathroom scale can be worked out. Bolger says on the plans that the
prototype used oak for the solid wood parts and weighed 150 pounds.
I used Phillipine mahogany, Honduras mahogany, and fir. Two men can
carry her a short distance, but...
3) I built a dolly to move her around, using some heavy duty
pnuematic casters from the Harbor Freight store in town. Using ramps
and a 16' utility trailer, I just wheeled her up on the bed and
strapped the combination down. This method failed on dirt roads,
however, because the caster tires didn't have enough air and created
a bouncing effect that cast off the tiedown hooks. In the future,
she'll go to the lake on cradles bolted to the bed of the utility
trailer and launched with the dolly once there. It might be possible
to cartop this boat if the racks were far enough apart and you had
some help to get her on the roof.
4) The boat is very tender when you first step in! Once seated,
however, it felt stable, and would likely feel even more so with two
aboard. Exactly what I've read about dories. The Michalak Robote
felt much more stable on entry, BTW.
5) Round oarlocks are what I've switched to, but I haven't yet had a
chance to try them out. I suspect that practice, practice, practice,
is the ultimate solution, but I'll feel better knowing I can't lose
the locks.
6) The length of the oars doesn't seem to be the problem, and since
PCB is such an experienced oarsman, I'm not inclined to deviate from
his specification of 7-footers. Incidentally, this boat has four oar
locations, all with different beam distances, so finding the correct
oar length is somewhat relative to begin with.
Thanks again for the kind words,
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Christopher C. Wetherill"
<wetherillc@...> wrote:
shipping. Seehttp://tinyurl.com/ruufr
http://www.mysticseaport.org/shop/item.cfm?mid=19557&mc=
80B
For oarlocks, you might want to try the Gaco oarlocks, available from
West Marine:http://tinyurl.com/hw7y8These have the pin in front
of the oar, which is the configuration Mr. Bolger favors. They also
fasten around the oar so they are hard to lose. They are a tad big
for the typical cheap commercial oars. I have a pair with rubber
sleeves/buttons that want to slip right through the Gaco locks. If
you are carving you own, just make the looms a bit more stout in way
of the lock. One drawback to these is that the pins are smaller than
the US 1/2" standard. (They are made in Australia.) They come with
bushings to fit in a standard oarlock socket plus a pair of molded
plastic sockets. This is a bit of a nuisance if you want to switch
between lock types. I just did a Rubens Nymph and to accommodate two
types of locks, I used the trick of fastening plates top and bottom of
gunwale and drilling through all for the oarlock pin. I made my
plates a bit long and drilled two holes in each, 1/2" US standard and
3/8" for the Gaco locks. The chapter on Spur II in BWAOM shows locks
of this geometry, if different construction, and the oarlock socket
construction I referred to.
Doug
<wetherillc@...> wrote:
>Andrew
> There is a book: "Oars for Pleasure Rowing: Their Design and Use" by
> B Steever, published by Mystic Seaport Museum. It is listed as outof print
> and unavailable by Wooden Boat Magazine's book store, but it shows up inThis book is available directly from Mystic Seaport Museum, $15 plus
> Amazon. It may be available through interlibrary loan.
>
shipping. Seehttp://tinyurl.com/ruufr
http://www.mysticseaport.org/shop/item.cfm?mid=19557&mc=
80B
For oarlocks, you might want to try the Gaco oarlocks, available from
West Marine:http://tinyurl.com/hw7y8These have the pin in front
of the oar, which is the configuration Mr. Bolger favors. They also
fasten around the oar so they are hard to lose. They are a tad big
for the typical cheap commercial oars. I have a pair with rubber
sleeves/buttons that want to slip right through the Gaco locks. If
you are carving you own, just make the looms a bit more stout in way
of the lock. One drawback to these is that the pins are smaller than
the US 1/2" standard. (They are made in Australia.) They come with
bushings to fit in a standard oarlock socket plus a pair of molded
plastic sockets. This is a bit of a nuisance if you want to switch
between lock types. I just did a Rubens Nymph and to accommodate two
types of locks, I used the trick of fastening plates top and bottom of
gunwale and drilling through all for the oarlock pin. I made my
plates a bit long and drilled two holes in each, 1/2" US standard and
3/8" for the Gaco locks. The chapter on Spur II in BWAOM shows locks
of this geometry, if different construction, and the oarlock socket
construction I referred to.
Doug
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography"
<jon@...> wrote:
and,and,and,etc,etc super sweet eye-candy!!! Thanks for posting!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
<jon@...> wrote:
>built as
> My Long Dory, Venusian, was finally launched on 26 May at Elevenmile
> Canyon Reservoir in central CO.
>http://www.kolbsadventures.com/long_dory_8.htm
>> Also launched that day was a Michalak Robote, Hypoxia, which I
> a solo exercise boat. The V-hull shape of this one reallyaccelerates
> quickly, but the same issues with the rower and his technique wereFélicitations Jon!!!Great pictures,grand scenary,fabulous boats
> apparent.
>http://www.kolbsadventures.com/robote_8.htm
and,and,and,etc,etc super sweet eye-candy!!! Thanks for posting!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Beautiful, Jon, just a beautiful job on both boats. I hope the
pleasure you get in rowing is a great as we got from seeing your
lovely craft.
Maybe it's cheating, but I use the round oarlocks instead of the U-
shaped ones, which prevents the oar-jump-out problem. I also use
Michalak's recommendation of two or three wraps of bungee cord as
buttons. I can lift the oar and oarlock out in one operation, and the
oarlock can't get away.
Gary
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography"
<jon@...> wrote:
pleasure you get in rowing is a great as we got from seeing your
lovely craft.
Maybe it's cheating, but I use the round oarlocks instead of the U-
shaped ones, which prevents the oar-jump-out problem. I also use
Michalak's recommendation of two or three wraps of bungee cord as
buttons. I can lift the oar and oarlock out in one operation, and the
oarlock can't get away.
Gary
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography"
<jon@...> wrote:
>Elevenmile
> My Long Dory, Venusian, was finally launched on 26 May at
> Canyon Reservoir in central CO.skills
>http://www.kolbsadventures.com/long_dory_8.htm
>
> It was a fine spring morning for a row, but I'm afraid my rowing
> need some work. We kept jumping the oars out of the locks, and thesoon.
> buttons are just a bit undersize to keep from sliding through the
> locks. I've recently made some improvements and will try again
> Overall, she's even prettier on the water, and she rows and tracksvery
> well when the rower does his job. Her size helps her keep her wayon,
> and although we didn't try rowing double, I'm certain she'll movealong
> very quickly with the right stroke.built as
>
> Also launched that day was a Michalak Robote, Hypoxia, which I
> a solo exercise boat. The V-hull shape of this one reallyaccelerates
> quickly, but the same issues with the rower and his technique were
> apparent.
>http://www.kolbsadventures.com/robote_8.htm
>
> Jon Kolb
> www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
>
Jon,
Those are both very nice looking boats. I also must echo Bruce Hallman's
envy of your shop.
It has been several years and three houses, but I used to have a book on oar
making. It gave an equation relating the oar length to freeboard and beam.
I do not remember the equation exactly, but for my skiff with 5 foot beam
and 1.5' freeboard I think it gave me 10 or 12 feet. I believe also that
only about 1/3 of the oar should be inboard of the lock. The whole idea is
that the oar will pop out of the lock if the angle to the water is too
steep. You may also notice the bow dipping on each stroke.
You may also have the locks a few inches too far forward. From the
pictures, it looks like the stroke ends with your hands near your shoulders.
It should end with your hands over your sternum.
I suggest you experiment with oar length, length of oar inboard, and lock
placement. My guess is an 8 or 9 foot oar set so that your hands pass over
the same point at mid stroke. I would try the 7 footers first and just
adjust where they sit in the locks. You could make clampable thole pins to
play with lock placement next. To experiment with length you could use
closet rod and plywood, not pretty or terribly strong, but cheap enough that
you could start long and shorten as you go.
There is a book: "Oars for Pleasure Rowing: Their Design and Use" by Andrew
B Steever, published by Mystic Seaport Museum. It is listed as out of print
and unavailable by Wooden Boat Magazine's book store, but it shows up in
Amazon. It may be available through interlibrary loan.
If you decide to try the experiments I suggest, I would be very interested
to hear of your results.
V/R
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
adventures_in_astrophotography
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 10:21 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Long Dory Launched
Hi Maximo,
although I am by no means an expert oarsman!
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
Bolger rules!!!
- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
Those are both very nice looking boats. I also must echo Bruce Hallman's
envy of your shop.
It has been several years and three houses, but I used to have a book on oar
making. It gave an equation relating the oar length to freeboard and beam.
I do not remember the equation exactly, but for my skiff with 5 foot beam
and 1.5' freeboard I think it gave me 10 or 12 feet. I believe also that
only about 1/3 of the oar should be inboard of the lock. The whole idea is
that the oar will pop out of the lock if the angle to the water is too
steep. You may also notice the bow dipping on each stroke.
You may also have the locks a few inches too far forward. From the
pictures, it looks like the stroke ends with your hands near your shoulders.
It should end with your hands over your sternum.
I suggest you experiment with oar length, length of oar inboard, and lock
placement. My guess is an 8 or 9 foot oar set so that your hands pass over
the same point at mid stroke. I would try the 7 footers first and just
adjust where they sit in the locks. You could make clampable thole pins to
play with lock placement next. To experiment with length you could use
closet rod and plywood, not pretty or terribly strong, but cheap enough that
you could start long and shorten as you go.
There is a book: "Oars for Pleasure Rowing: Their Design and Use" by Andrew
B Steever, published by Mystic Seaport Museum. It is listed as out of print
and unavailable by Wooden Boat Magazine's book store, but it shows up in
Amazon. It may be available through interlibrary loan.
If you decide to try the experiments I suggest, I would be very interested
to hear of your results.
V/R
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
adventures_in_astrophotography
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 10:21 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Long Dory Launched
Hi Maximo,
> Are the oars length ok for this boat? It seems to me a little short,but I
> am not an expert on dorys, so is only a thought.Per a fax from PCB, the oars are 7' in length and seem to be fine,
although I am by no means an expert oarsman!
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
Bolger rules!!!
- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
What a beautiful boat! Use that boat as often as you can, as practice
will certainly improve your rowing skills.
The shape of that hull gives me the impression that it would be rough
water, (even surf), capable. It would be fun to try it out in the
surf to see how it feels.
I am curious what it weighs? Does it require a trailer? How 'tender'
does it feel?
[And, repeating myself, wow, I am jealous of your shop!]
will certainly improve your rowing skills.
The shape of that hull gives me the impression that it would be rough
water, (even surf), capable. It would be fun to try it out in the
surf to see how it feels.
I am curious what it weighs? Does it require a trailer? How 'tender'
does it feel?
[And, repeating myself, wow, I am jealous of your shop!]
Hi Maximo,
although I am by no means an expert oarsman!
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
> Are the oars length ok for this boat? It seems to me a little short,but I
> am not an expert on dorys, so is only a thought.Per a fax from PCB, the oars are 7' in length and seem to be fine,
although I am by no means an expert oarsman!
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
Jon, great boat and beatiful place!
Are the oars length ok for this boat? It seems to me a little short, but I
am not an expert on dorys, so is only a thought.
Máximo.
Are the oars length ok for this boat? It seems to me a little short, but I
am not an expert on dorys, so is only a thought.
Máximo.
My Long Dory, Venusian, was finally launched on 26 May at Elevenmile
Canyon Reservoir in central CO.
http://www.kolbsadventures.com/long_dory_8.htm
It was a fine spring morning for a row, but I'm afraid my rowing skills
need some work. We kept jumping the oars out of the locks, and the
buttons are just a bit undersize to keep from sliding through the
locks. I've recently made some improvements and will try again soon.
Overall, she's even prettier on the water, and she rows and tracks very
well when the rower does his job. Her size helps her keep her way on,
and although we didn't try rowing double, I'm certain she'll move along
very quickly with the right stroke.
Also launched that day was a Michalak Robote, Hypoxia, which I built as
a solo exercise boat. The V-hull shape of this one really accelerates
quickly, but the same issues with the rower and his technique were
apparent.
http://www.kolbsadventures.com/robote_8.htm
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
Canyon Reservoir in central CO.
http://www.kolbsadventures.com/long_dory_8.htm
It was a fine spring morning for a row, but I'm afraid my rowing skills
need some work. We kept jumping the oars out of the locks, and the
buttons are just a bit undersize to keep from sliding through the
locks. I've recently made some improvements and will try again soon.
Overall, she's even prettier on the water, and she rows and tracks very
well when the rower does his job. Her size helps her keep her way on,
and although we didn't try rowing double, I'm certain she'll move along
very quickly with the right stroke.
Also launched that day was a Michalak Robote, Hypoxia, which I built as
a solo exercise boat. The V-hull shape of this one really accelerates
quickly, but the same issues with the rower and his technique were
apparent.
http://www.kolbsadventures.com/robote_8.htm
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm