Re: [bolger] Re: Martha Jane oars
thanks for the tip.
please keep up your web site- it is a nice one!
please keep up your web site- it is a nice one!
On Jun 17, 2006, at 1:54 PM, alaskamaz wrote:
> I really hate to redirect boat builders from their projects, but if
> you want an easy, efficient way to move a Martha Jane by oar, consider
> a yuloh. The two main advantages are one oar instead of two, and a
> propulsion system that is parallel to the centerline of the boat
> rather than perpendicular--very handy for small creek mouths or narrow
> moorings where it's difficult to swing a pair of oars big enough to
> move your boat along.
>
> My brother and his wife use a yuloh on their much larger, heavier
> LUNA. In fact, his yuloh's better than mine--he made it out of a
> spruce sapling and a plywood spoon. It's lighter, more flexible, and
> moves a bigger boat faster than mine. I'm seriously considering
> downscaling mine, although I'm extremely happy with my lanyard
> configuration.
>
> You can see examples of these in the SELKIE and LUNA sections of my
> Web site:http://www.alaska.net/~mzeiger/Boat_Building.html.
>
> While I'm here, I should mention to those of you who know and use my
> site, we're working on a move to elsewhere in Alaska, and there's a
> good possibility I will take down this site. Haven't made any hard
> decisions yet, but thought I'd give you a bit of warning now that I've
> finally logged back onto this forum.
>
> Fair winds,
>
> Mark Zeiger
> Juneau, Alaska
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <skiffsalor2000@...> wrote:
> >
> > Mike:
> >
> > The patterns are out there for the having. I like the long oars
> > with the narrow blades, mine are 7 feet. I made them from a
> > 2 X 6 and whittled them out with a draw knife. After they got a
> > little closer, I used a belt sander on the blades to taper them.
> > Then, I found this somewhere, you take a belt from a belt sander and
> > turn it inside out. Then you fashion a drive pulley that will spin
> > this belt and you use that to round the shafts. I don't worry about
> > getting the shafts 100% round - mine are oblong. I used nylon line
> > to protect the oars where they contact the boat and vice-versa.
> >
> > I have made 5 oars like this. 5 because I lost one and had to make
> > a new one. It was a sad day when I lost that oar. I found all this
> > online - there are patterns and information if you just
> > google "homemade oars" or something. I did receive a compliment on
> > the oars. They sound crude but, my soon-to-be ex-wife, now showing
> > interest in my boats, said, "these should be on display." You would
> > have to know here to appreciate the comment. Varnish makes most any
> > wood look pretty good.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mkstocks@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm thinking about making some oars so that I can row my Martha
> > Jane while standing and
> > > facing forward. Any experienced suggestions on how long to make
> > the oars, etc???
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> >
>
>
>
Mike Stockstill
mkstocks@...
http://mkstocks.tripod.com/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I really hate to redirect boat builders from their projects, but if
you want an easy, efficient way to move a Martha Jane by oar, consider
a yuloh. The two main advantages are one oar instead of two, and a
propulsion system that is parallel to the centerline of the boat
rather than perpendicular--very handy for small creek mouths or narrow
moorings where it's difficult to swing a pair of oars big enough to
move your boat along.
My brother and his wife use a yuloh on their much larger, heavier
LUNA. In fact, his yuloh's better than mine--he made it out of a
spruce sapling and a plywood spoon. It's lighter, more flexible, and
moves a bigger boat faster than mine. I'm seriously considering
downscaling mine, although I'm extremely happy with my lanyard
configuration.
You can see examples of these in the SELKIE and LUNA sections of my
Web site:http://www.alaska.net/~mzeiger/Boat_Building.html.
While I'm here, I should mention to those of you who know and use my
site, we're working on a move to elsewhere in Alaska, and there's a
good possibility I will take down this site. Haven't made any hard
decisions yet, but thought I'd give you a bit of warning now that I've
finally logged back onto this forum.
Fair winds,
Mark Zeiger
Juneau, Alaska
you want an easy, efficient way to move a Martha Jane by oar, consider
a yuloh. The two main advantages are one oar instead of two, and a
propulsion system that is parallel to the centerline of the boat
rather than perpendicular--very handy for small creek mouths or narrow
moorings where it's difficult to swing a pair of oars big enough to
move your boat along.
My brother and his wife use a yuloh on their much larger, heavier
LUNA. In fact, his yuloh's better than mine--he made it out of a
spruce sapling and a plywood spoon. It's lighter, more flexible, and
moves a bigger boat faster than mine. I'm seriously considering
downscaling mine, although I'm extremely happy with my lanyard
configuration.
You can see examples of these in the SELKIE and LUNA sections of my
Web site:http://www.alaska.net/~mzeiger/Boat_Building.html.
While I'm here, I should mention to those of you who know and use my
site, we're working on a move to elsewhere in Alaska, and there's a
good possibility I will take down this site. Haven't made any hard
decisions yet, but thought I'd give you a bit of warning now that I've
finally logged back onto this forum.
Fair winds,
Mark Zeiger
Juneau, Alaska
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <skiffsalor2000@...> wrote:
>
> Mike:
>
> The patterns are out there for the having. I like the long oars
> with the narrow blades, mine are 7 feet. I made them from a
> 2 X 6 and whittled them out with a draw knife. After they got a
> little closer, I used a belt sander on the blades to taper them.
> Then, I found this somewhere, you take a belt from a belt sander and
> turn it inside out. Then you fashion a drive pulley that will spin
> this belt and you use that to round the shafts. I don't worry about
> getting the shafts 100% round - mine are oblong. I used nylon line
> to protect the oars where they contact the boat and vice-versa.
>
> I have made 5 oars like this. 5 because I lost one and had to make
> a new one. It was a sad day when I lost that oar. I found all this
> online - there are patterns and information if you just
> google "homemade oars" or something. I did receive a compliment on
> the oars. They sound crude but, my soon-to-be ex-wife, now showing
> interest in my boats, said, "these should be on display." You would
> have to know here to appreciate the comment. Varnish makes most any
> wood look pretty good.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mkstocks@> wrote:
> >
> > I'm thinking about making some oars so that I can row my Martha
> Jane while standing and
> > facing forward. Any experienced suggestions on how long to make
> the oars, etc???
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Mike
> >
>
I row my "Bufflehead" (Dovekie inspired 19' row/sailboat) standing up facing
forward with 9' oars on the gunwale. The freeboard is about 32" and the
spread about 60". I think 10' oars might be better, but these do ok. I
face forward mostly in enclosed areas like marinas or for short stints, or
while sailing in light wind. I find facing forward more enjoyable than
backwards, and sometimes go distances that way, though it doesn't seem quite
as efficient. The almost 18' spread of the oars can be a bother in some
tight places as mentioned, but unlike a yuloh, you have reverse and can spin
the boat around and make very sharp turns with one oar in fwd. and one
reverse. My oars are made from 2x3 fir with 1/4" ply blades. My cockpit
floor is about 28" below the oarlock level, which seems to bring the oar
handles about right where I want them, at mid chest level.
Gary
forward with 9' oars on the gunwale. The freeboard is about 32" and the
spread about 60". I think 10' oars might be better, but these do ok. I
face forward mostly in enclosed areas like marinas or for short stints, or
while sailing in light wind. I find facing forward more enjoyable than
backwards, and sometimes go distances that way, though it doesn't seem quite
as efficient. The almost 18' spread of the oars can be a bother in some
tight places as mentioned, but unlike a yuloh, you have reverse and can spin
the boat around and make very sharp turns with one oar in fwd. and one
reverse. My oars are made from 2x3 fir with 1/4" ply blades. My cockpit
floor is about 28" below the oarlock level, which seems to bring the oar
handles about right where I want them, at mid chest level.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike" <mkstocks@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 8:31 AM
Subject: [bolger] Martha Jane oars
I'm thinking about making some oars so that I can row my Martha Jane while
standing and
facing forward. Any experienced suggestions on how long to make the oars,
etc???
Thanks.
Mike
Mike:
The patterns are out there for the having. I like the long oars
with the narrow blades, mine are 7 feet. I made them from a
2 X 6 and whittled them out with a draw knife. After they got a
little closer, I used a belt sander on the blades to taper them.
Then, I found this somewhere, you take a belt from a belt sander and
turn it inside out. Then you fashion a drive pulley that will spin
this belt and you use that to round the shafts. I don't worry about
getting the shafts 100% round - mine are oblong. I used nylon line
to protect the oars where they contact the boat and vice-versa.
I have made 5 oars like this. 5 because I lost one and had to make
a new one. It was a sad day when I lost that oar. I found all this
online - there are patterns and information if you just
google "homemade oars" or something. I did receive a compliment on
the oars. They sound crude but, my soon-to-be ex-wife, now showing
interest in my boats, said, "these should be on display." You would
have to know here to appreciate the comment. Varnish makes most any
wood look pretty good.
Mike
The patterns are out there for the having. I like the long oars
with the narrow blades, mine are 7 feet. I made them from a
2 X 6 and whittled them out with a draw knife. After they got a
little closer, I used a belt sander on the blades to taper them.
Then, I found this somewhere, you take a belt from a belt sander and
turn it inside out. Then you fashion a drive pulley that will spin
this belt and you use that to round the shafts. I don't worry about
getting the shafts 100% round - mine are oblong. I used nylon line
to protect the oars where they contact the boat and vice-versa.
I have made 5 oars like this. 5 because I lost one and had to make
a new one. It was a sad day when I lost that oar. I found all this
online - there are patterns and information if you just
google "homemade oars" or something. I did receive a compliment on
the oars. They sound crude but, my soon-to-be ex-wife, now showing
interest in my boats, said, "these should be on display." You would
have to know here to appreciate the comment. Varnish makes most any
wood look pretty good.
Mike
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mkstocks@...> wrote:
>
> I'm thinking about making some oars so that I can row my Martha
Jane while standing and
> facing forward. Any experienced suggestions on how long to make
the oars, etc???
>
> Thanks.
>
> Mike
>
I'm thinking about making some oars so that I can row my Martha Jane while standing and
facing forward. Any experienced suggestions on how long to make the oars, etc???
Thanks.
Mike
facing forward. Any experienced suggestions on how long to make the oars, etc???
Thanks.
Mike