Re: Epoxy paint.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Chamberland" <chamberlands@...> >
For glassing the usual approaches are to lay down a prime coat of
I wonder if it would be possible to do what Bob recommends above, to
get the cloth attached to the wood with pure epoxy and then finish off
filling the weave with several coats of paint? The surface will likely
end up pebbled likely - sort of a "sharkskin" effect:-)
Paint by itself will not work for reasons already mentioned. The
solids in the paint will prevent full adhesion between the wood and
the glas cloth. But people have done it nonethless. I would not.
One could test first by glassing a small piece of scrap wood and let
it cure for several days and see how easily it peels off using some
pliers. Or better yet, try three test pieces, one using pure epoxy
only, one with epoxy and paint and one with only paint. And share your
findings:-)
Nels
For glassing the usual approaches are to lay down a prime coat of
> epoxy and when it is no longer tacky but still green, lay out thecloth.
> fiberglass cloth then lay on the epoxy filling the weave of the
I wonder if it would be possible to do what Bob recommends above, to
get the cloth attached to the wood with pure epoxy and then finish off
filling the weave with several coats of paint? The surface will likely
end up pebbled likely - sort of a "sharkskin" effect:-)
Paint by itself will not work for reasons already mentioned. The
solids in the paint will prevent full adhesion between the wood and
the glas cloth. But people have done it nonethless. I would not.
One could test first by glassing a small piece of scrap wood and let
it cure for several days and see how easily it peels off using some
pliers. Or better yet, try three test pieces, one using pure epoxy
only, one with epoxy and paint and one with only paint. And share your
findings:-)
Nels
We don't know what this stuff is do we? For underwater use you had
best contact the formulators. If they use it for oil platform supports
I would suppose you could paint the bottom of your boat with it.
For glassing the usual approaches are to lay down a prime coat of
epoxy and when it is no longer tacky but still green, lay out the
fiberglass cloth then lay on the epoxy filling the weave of the cloth.
Or you could let the prime fully cure, wash and sand then lay the
cloth out and lay on the epoxy. The other tack is to just lay out the
cloth on the wood and start slathering epoxy until it won't take any
more in. The problem with using paint is that it skins over and this
can happen rapidly before you can fill the voids or perhaps even
before the paint has a chance to soak through the cloth. Epoxy doesn't
skin over like paint. You generally have anywhere from an 30 minutes
to an hour or so before curing limits workability. Maybe longer
depending on the formulation and temperature of the workplace.
Bob Chamberland
best contact the formulators. If they use it for oil platform supports
I would suppose you could paint the bottom of your boat with it.
For glassing the usual approaches are to lay down a prime coat of
epoxy and when it is no longer tacky but still green, lay out the
fiberglass cloth then lay on the epoxy filling the weave of the cloth.
Or you could let the prime fully cure, wash and sand then lay the
cloth out and lay on the epoxy. The other tack is to just lay out the
cloth on the wood and start slathering epoxy until it won't take any
more in. The problem with using paint is that it skins over and this
can happen rapidly before you can fill the voids or perhaps even
before the paint has a chance to soak through the cloth. Epoxy doesn't
skin over like paint. You generally have anywhere from an 30 minutes
to an hour or so before curing limits workability. Maybe longer
depending on the formulation and temperature of the workplace.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "howgegoboat" <howgegoboat@...> wrote:
>
> Hi I was supprised to hear that about epoxy, thanks for the
> correction, this stuff is surplus to the oil industry so you cannot
> get much more industrial than that! I caanot see why you cannot
> suspend glass in it if you can grit. Will email them sometime. But
> that is a while off yet, need to get frames built and then planked.
> YOurs James
>
James,
This last message was a bit cryptic, but I'll comment on the bits I
think I got. I'm not sure I understand your objection to brittle.
Either a glue works for your application, or it doesn't. It'd have to
be a pretty specialized usage to disqualify a glue for being too
brittle. but I'll comment anyway. First, titebond II is not at all
brittle. In fact, one of the applications to which it is not suited is
bent laminations where there is a tight radius. Because it doesn't dry
hard & brittle it's prone to allow creeping & springback over time. It
dries rubberier than epoxy. I haven't used polyurethane glues much
(and haven't liked them when I have) so can only say my impression is
they dry harder, more brittle than TII. We built a Puddle Duck Racer
using TII & narrow crown staples. It hasn't hit the water yet, so I
can't say how it'll hold up. I'm confident it'll be fine, but I do
regard it as an experiment. I am going to beef it up a bit my using
fiberglass tape set in epoxy at the chines, etc. But no epoxy fillets
planned.
Regarding paints, my boat painting experience is minimal. So far, for
boats, I've used latex porch & deck paint, oil porch & deck paint, and
2-part polyurethane. Like the ease of use & price of the latex porch
paint, but it seems the least durable. Oil porch paint seems more
durable, about the same price, though one must use (and properly
dispose of) solvents to clean up. The 2-part looks like it'll be quite
durable. Solvents to clean up. Quite expensive. Too glossy right out
of the pot for the level of craftsmanship that my sons & I aim for in
our boat projects - it shows every flaw. As with any painting,
preparation is a primary factor in setting the final outcome. Sand &
fair well. Use the appropriate primer. Sand well. Put on multiple thin
coats of topcoat rather than 1 or 2 heavy coats.
Good Luck,
David Graybeal
Portland, OR
"The workboat finish is a case of mind over matter. If you don't mind,
it don't matter" -- Lew Clayman
*****************
This last message was a bit cryptic, but I'll comment on the bits I
think I got. I'm not sure I understand your objection to brittle.
Either a glue works for your application, or it doesn't. It'd have to
be a pretty specialized usage to disqualify a glue for being too
brittle. but I'll comment anyway. First, titebond II is not at all
brittle. In fact, one of the applications to which it is not suited is
bent laminations where there is a tight radius. Because it doesn't dry
hard & brittle it's prone to allow creeping & springback over time. It
dries rubberier than epoxy. I haven't used polyurethane glues much
(and haven't liked them when I have) so can only say my impression is
they dry harder, more brittle than TII. We built a Puddle Duck Racer
using TII & narrow crown staples. It hasn't hit the water yet, so I
can't say how it'll hold up. I'm confident it'll be fine, but I do
regard it as an experiment. I am going to beef it up a bit my using
fiberglass tape set in epoxy at the chines, etc. But no epoxy fillets
planned.
Regarding paints, my boat painting experience is minimal. So far, for
boats, I've used latex porch & deck paint, oil porch & deck paint, and
2-part polyurethane. Like the ease of use & price of the latex porch
paint, but it seems the least durable. Oil porch paint seems more
durable, about the same price, though one must use (and properly
dispose of) solvents to clean up. The 2-part looks like it'll be quite
durable. Solvents to clean up. Quite expensive. Too glossy right out
of the pot for the level of craftsmanship that my sons & I aim for in
our boat projects - it shows every flaw. As with any painting,
preparation is a primary factor in setting the final outcome. Sand &
fair well. Use the appropriate primer. Sand well. Put on multiple thin
coats of topcoat rather than 1 or 2 heavy coats.
Good Luck,
David Graybeal
Portland, OR
"The workboat finish is a case of mind over matter. If you don't mind,
it don't matter" -- Lew Clayman
*****************
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "howgegoboat" <howgegoboat@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, john h wright <jhargrovewright2@>
> wrote:
> >Hi thanks for the advice,
> seemed to good to be true!
> What do people think of latex exterior paint,
> Bitumen paint,
> Polyuathane floor paint,
> John Welsford recomends paint is as good as epoxy,
> May be resigned to epoxy!
> Epoxy is expensive in Uk.
> Also glues I have been using polyuathane building glue.
> As tested in serveral places - brown cartridge glue!
> Titebond two seems to brittle to me especialy when used with
> softwood which is more flexable than hardwoods
> Yours james.
Hi
Thanks for the advice, I caanot see why I should not use this epoxy
paint on underwater. and indeed lay glas in it. Its ex oil rig paint
so it is going to be good stuff! The narrow boats on the canal just
use bitumen paint and no antifouling! Must be minimal growth, so I
could just use that stuff, as its cheap, but I am not sure how water
proof or abrasion resistant.
Must build today.
Need to cut roof beam laminations but table saw is burnt out.
Neighbour promised me his but I have yet to see it!
Have built all frames, and now need to built transom, before I can
contemplate building up.
Yours James
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, john h wright <jhargrovewright2@...>
wrote:
Thanks for the advice, I caanot see why I should not use this epoxy
paint on underwater. and indeed lay glas in it. Its ex oil rig paint
so it is going to be good stuff! The narrow boats on the canal just
use bitumen paint and no antifouling! Must be minimal growth, so I
could just use that stuff, as its cheap, but I am not sure how water
proof or abrasion resistant.
Must build today.
Need to cut roof beam laminations but table saw is burnt out.
Neighbour promised me his but I have yet to see it!
Have built all frames, and now need to built transom, before I can
contemplate building up.
Yours James
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, john h wright <jhargrovewright2@...>
wrote:
>can be
> There is two part epoxy paint and two part urethane paint. Both
> very good paint and long lasting but also are relatively expensive.polyurathane.
>
> On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 19:46:49 -0000 "Bob Chamberland"
> <chamberlands@...> writes:
> John's reply sure brought me up short. What I've been calling epoxy
> paints are polyurathane paints. The two part are linear
> Petit "Easypoxy" is a polyurathane paint.and "polyurathane"
>
> Is there any relationship between "epoxy" chemistry
> chemistry? Read my comments below substituting theword "polyurathane"
> for "epoxy" until someone can enlighten me. Other than that I don'tepoxy
> think I would change what I written.
>
> Bob Chamberland
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, john h wright <jhargrovewright2@>
> wrote:
> >
> > The word Epoxy in a name does not mean very much. A one part
> paintusing
> > is misleading to most of us laymen. Most would be better off
> > anything else. The only Epoxy Paint that I have had any luckwith is a
> > Two Part (catalyzed) and must be mixed together but has had potlife
> of atime or
> > couple of hours at most temps. My advice is don't waste your
> > money on so called "one part epoxy paint". My 2c worth.first
> >
> > On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 13:55:07 -0000 "Bob Chamberland"
> > <chamberlands@> writes:
> > Hi James, Your epoxy paint supplier can probably answer your
> > question though he will probably not want to commit himself.will
> >
> > You should not use epoxy paint on the bottom of your boat. You
> > get blisters if the boat is left in the water. This is the voiceof
> > experience. I used Interthane Plus on a boat years ago. It spentthe
> > summer on a mooring in 43 degree water. At the time I took itout it
> > had plenty of blister. The epoxy paints I've seen are topsidepaints
> > only. Epoxy paint is not the same as the usual epoxy for glueingand
> > coating. It will skin over while you are trying to set the glassin
> > place and you will probably have one heck of a mess.thinned
> >
> > Epoxy (not the paint) should not be thinned though when it is
> > acetone is usually used. One advantage of epoxy is that it curesleave.
> > chemically without leaving the voids that evaporating thinners
> > This is what gives it its water resistance. There is somequestion of
> > whether adding thinner aids penetration but it does leave voidsfor
> sure.think.
> >
> >
> > Epoxy paint is UV resistant mostly by means of the pigment I
> > Dark colors do fade. The paint can will tell you what to use forevaporation is
> > thinner. Epoxy paint is not usually thinned except when
> > too fast-hot dry days. If your boat is going to be moored itwould be
> > a good idea to glass the bottom with epoxy (not paint) use abarrier
> > coat then bottom paint and read the directions on the can.wrote:
> > Bob Chamberland
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "howgegoboat" <howgegoboat@>
> > >etc,
> > > Hi I was just wondering if anyone had an answer for me.
> > > I am building a plywood 23' sailing yacht, long concrete keel
> andpaint, I
> > > was wondering if it is possible to use glass cloth in epoxy
> > > know you can use anti slip in epoxy paint so why not glasscloth? I
> > > don't need the glass for strength just for abrasion and waterfirst coat
> > > resistance. I can get epoxy paint very cheap.
> > > Also what can I use to thin it. I am told that to thin the
>hold on
> > > means that the penentration is better and will give a better
> > > the plywood bottom. 3/4" incidentally. Also is epoxy paintresistant
> > > to UV?
> > > See Backyard boat building 3 for pics - Offcut special!
> > > YOurs James
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
There is two part epoxy paint and two part urethane paint. Both can be
very good paint and long lasting but also are relatively expensive.
On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 19:46:49 -0000 "Bob Chamberland"
<chamberlands@...> writes:
John's reply sure brought me up short. What I've been calling epoxy
paints are polyurathane paints. The two part are linear polyurathane.
Petit "Easypoxy" is a polyurathane paint.
Is there any relationship between "epoxy" chemistry and "polyurathane"
chemistry? Read my comments below substituting the word "polyurathane"
for "epoxy" until someone can enlighten me. Other than that I don't
think I would change what I written.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, john h wright <jhargrovewright2@...>
wrote:
very good paint and long lasting but also are relatively expensive.
On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 19:46:49 -0000 "Bob Chamberland"
<chamberlands@...> writes:
John's reply sure brought me up short. What I've been calling epoxy
paints are polyurathane paints. The two part are linear polyurathane.
Petit "Easypoxy" is a polyurathane paint.
Is there any relationship between "epoxy" chemistry and "polyurathane"
chemistry? Read my comments below substituting the word "polyurathane"
for "epoxy" until someone can enlighten me. Other than that I don't
think I would change what I written.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, john h wright <jhargrovewright2@...>
wrote:
>paint
> The word Epoxy in a name does not mean very much. A one part epoxy
> is misleading to most of us laymen. Most would be better off usingof a
> anything else. The only Epoxy Paint that I have had any luck with is a
> Two Part (catalyzed) and must be mixed together but has had pot life
> couple of hours at most temps. My advice is don't waste your time orsure.
> money on so called "one part epoxy paint". My 2c worth.
>
> On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 13:55:07 -0000 "Bob Chamberland"
> <chamberlands@...> writes:
> Hi James, Your epoxy paint supplier can probably answer your first
> question though he will probably not want to commit himself.
>
> You should not use epoxy paint on the bottom of your boat. You will
> get blisters if the boat is left in the water. This is the voice of
> experience. I used Interthane Plus on a boat years ago. It spent the
> summer on a mooring in 43 degree water. At the time I took it out it
> had plenty of blister. The epoxy paints I've seen are topside paints
> only. Epoxy paint is not the same as the usual epoxy for glueing and
> coating. It will skin over while you are trying to set the glass in
> place and you will probably have one heck of a mess.
>
> Epoxy (not the paint) should not be thinned though when it is thinned
> acetone is usually used. One advantage of epoxy is that it cures
> chemically without leaving the voids that evaporating thinners leave.
> This is what gives it its water resistance. There is some question of
> whether adding thinner aids penetration but it does leave voids for
>and
>
> Epoxy paint is UV resistant mostly by means of the pigment I think.
> Dark colors do fade. The paint can will tell you what to use for
> thinner. Epoxy paint is not usually thinned except when evaporation is
> too fast-hot dry days. If your boat is going to be moored it would be
> a good idea to glass the bottom with epoxy (not paint) use a barrier
> coat then bottom paint and read the directions on the can.
> Bob Chamberland
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "howgegoboat" <howgegoboat@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi I was just wondering if anyone had an answer for me.
> > I am building a plywood 23' sailing yacht, long concrete keel etc,
> > was wondering if it is possible to use glass cloth in epoxy paint, I[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > know you can use anti slip in epoxy paint so why not glass cloth? I
> > don't need the glass for strength just for abrasion and water
> > resistance. I can get epoxy paint very cheap.
> > Also what can I use to thin it. I am told that to thin the first coat
> > means that the penentration is better and will give a better hold on
> > the plywood bottom. 3/4" incidentally. Also is epoxy paint resistant
> > to UV?
> > See Backyard boat building 3 for pics - Offcut special!
> > YOurs James
> >
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Bob:
I've been quite happy with the 1-part polyurethane (Interlux
Brightsides) that I used on my Windsprint and the bottom of my kayak. I
don't leave them in the water for very long (up to 2 weeks in salt water
with a months-long drying out period afterward for the Windsprint), so
maybe the whole boat is like topsides for me.
Pat
Bob Chamberland wrote:
I've been quite happy with the 1-part polyurethane (Interlux
Brightsides) that I used on my Windsprint and the bottom of my kayak. I
don't leave them in the water for very long (up to 2 weeks in salt water
with a months-long drying out period afterward for the Windsprint), so
maybe the whole boat is like topsides for me.
Pat
Bob Chamberland wrote:
> John's reply sure brought me up short. What I've been calling epoxy
> paints are polyurathane paints. The two part are linear polyurathane.
> Petit "Easypoxy" is a polyurathane paint.
>
> Is there any relationship between "epoxy" chemistry and "polyurathane"
> chemistry? Read my comments below substituting the word "polyurathane"
> for "epoxy" until someone can enlighten me. Other than that I don't
> think I would change what I written.
>
> Bob Chamberland
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, john h wright <jhargrovewright2@...> wrote:
>
>> The word Epoxy in a name does not mean very much. A one part epoxy
>>
> paint
>
>> is misleading to most of us laymen. Most would be better off using
>> anything else. The only Epoxy Paint that I have had any luck with is a
>> Two Part (catalyzed) and must be mixed together but has had pot life
>>
> of a
>
>> couple of hours at most temps. My advice is don't waste your time or
>> money on so called "one part epoxy paint". My 2c worth.
>>
>> On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 13:55:07 -0000 "Bob Chamberland"
>> <chamberlands@...> writes:
>> Hi James, Your epoxy paint supplier can probably answer your first
>> question though he will probably not want to commit himself.
>>
>> You should not use epoxy paint on the bottom of your boat. You will
>> get blisters if the boat is left in the water. This is the voice of
>> experience. I used Interthane Plus on a boat years ago. It spent the
>> summer on a mooring in 43 degree water. At the time I took it out it
>> had plenty of blister. The epoxy paints I've seen are topside paints
>> only. Epoxy paint is not the same as the usual epoxy for glueing and
>> coating. It will skin over while you are trying to set the glass in
>> place and you will probably have one heck of a mess.
>>
>> Epoxy (not the paint) should not be thinned though when it is thinned
>> acetone is usually used. One advantage of epoxy is that it cures
>> chemically without leaving the voids that evaporating thinners leave.
>> This is what gives it its water resistance. There is some question of
>> whether adding thinner aids penetration but it does leave voids for
>>
> sure.
>
>> Epoxy paint is UV resistant mostly by means of the pigment I think.
>> Dark colors do fade. The paint can will tell you what to use for
>> thinner. Epoxy paint is not usually thinned except when evaporation is
>> too fast-hot dry days. If your boat is going to be moored it would be
>> a good idea to glass the bottom with epoxy (not paint) use a barrier
>> coat then bottom paint and read the directions on the can.
>> Bob Chamberland
>>
>> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "howgegoboat" <howgegoboat@> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi I was just wondering if anyone had an answer for me.
>>> I am building a plywood 23' sailing yacht, long concrete keel etc,
>>>
> and
>
>>> was wondering if it is possible to use glass cloth in epoxy paint, I
>>> know you can use anti slip in epoxy paint so why not glass cloth? I
>>> don't need the glass for strength just for abrasion and water
>>> resistance. I can get epoxy paint very cheap.
>>> Also what can I use to thin it. I am told that to thin the first coat
>>> means that the penentration is better and will give a better hold on
>>> the plywood bottom. 3/4" incidentally. Also is epoxy paint resistant
>>> to UV?
>>> See Backyard boat building 3 for pics - Offcut special!
>>> YOurs James
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Hi I was supprised to hear that about epoxy, thanks for the
correction, this stuff is surplus to the oil industry so you cannot
get much more industrial than that! I caanot see why you cannot
suspend glass in it if you can grit. Will email them sometime. But
that is a while off yet, need to get frames built and then planked.
YOurs James
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Chamberland" <chamberlands@...>
wrote:
correction, this stuff is surplus to the oil industry so you cannot
get much more industrial than that! I caanot see why you cannot
suspend glass in it if you can grit. Will email them sometime. But
that is a while off yet, need to get frames built and then planked.
YOurs James
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Chamberland" <chamberlands@...>
wrote:
>polyurathane.
> John's reply sure brought me up short. What I've been calling epoxy
> paints are polyurathane paints. The two part are linear
> Petit "Easypoxy" is a polyurathane paint.and "polyurathane"
>
> Is there any relationship between "epoxy" chemistry
> chemistry? Read my comments below substituting theword "polyurathane"
> for "epoxy" until someone can enlighten me. Other than that I don'twrote:
> think I would change what I written.
>
> Bob Chamberland
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, john h wright <jhargrovewright2@>
> >epoxy
> > The word Epoxy in a name does not mean very much. A one part
> paintusing
> > is misleading to most of us laymen. Most would be better off
> > anything else. The only Epoxy Paint that I have had any luckwith is a
> > Two Part (catalyzed) and must be mixed together but has had potlife
> of atime or
> > couple of hours at most temps. My advice is don't waste your
> > money on so called "one part epoxy paint". My 2c worth.first
> >
> > On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 13:55:07 -0000 "Bob Chamberland"
> > <chamberlands@> writes:
> > Hi James, Your epoxy paint supplier can probably answer your
> > question though he will probably not want to commit himself.will
> >
> > You should not use epoxy paint on the bottom of your boat. You
> > get blisters if the boat is left in the water. This is the voiceof
> > experience. I used Interthane Plus on a boat years ago. It spentthe
> > summer on a mooring in 43 degree water. At the time I took itout it
> > had plenty of blister. The epoxy paints I've seen are topsidepaints
> > only. Epoxy paint is not the same as the usual epoxy for glueingand
> > coating. It will skin over while you are trying to set the glassin
> > place and you will probably have one heck of a mess.thinned
> >
> > Epoxy (not the paint) should not be thinned though when it is
> > acetone is usually used. One advantage of epoxy is that it curesleave.
> > chemically without leaving the voids that evaporating thinners
> > This is what gives it its water resistance. There is somequestion of
> > whether adding thinner aids penetration but it does leave voidsfor
> sure.think.
> >
> >
> > Epoxy paint is UV resistant mostly by means of the pigment I
> > Dark colors do fade. The paint can will tell you what to use forevaporation is
> > thinner. Epoxy paint is not usually thinned except when
> > too fast-hot dry days. If your boat is going to be moored itwould be
> > a good idea to glass the bottom with epoxy (not paint) use abarrier
> > coat then bottom paint and read the directions on the can.wrote:
> > Bob Chamberland
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "howgegoboat" <howgegoboat@>
> > >etc,
> > > Hi I was just wondering if anyone had an answer for me.
> > > I am building a plywood 23' sailing yacht, long concrete keel
> andpaint, I
> > > was wondering if it is possible to use glass cloth in epoxy
> > > know you can use anti slip in epoxy paint so why not glasscloth? I
> > > don't need the glass for strength just for abrasion and waterfirst coat
> > > resistance. I can get epoxy paint very cheap.
> > > Also what can I use to thin it. I am told that to thin the
> > > means that the penentration is better and will give a betterhold on
> > > the plywood bottom. 3/4" incidentally. Also is epoxy paintresistant
> > > to UV?
> > > See Backyard boat building 3 for pics - Offcut special!
> > > YOurs James
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
John's reply sure brought me up short. What I've been calling epoxy
paints are polyurathane paints. The two part are linear polyurathane.
Petit "Easypoxy" is a polyurathane paint.
Is there any relationship between "epoxy" chemistry and "polyurathane"
chemistry? Read my comments below substituting the word "polyurathane"
for "epoxy" until someone can enlighten me. Other than that I don't
think I would change what I written.
Bob Chamberland
paints are polyurathane paints. The two part are linear polyurathane.
Petit "Easypoxy" is a polyurathane paint.
Is there any relationship between "epoxy" chemistry and "polyurathane"
chemistry? Read my comments below substituting the word "polyurathane"
for "epoxy" until someone can enlighten me. Other than that I don't
think I would change what I written.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, john h wright <jhargrovewright2@...> wrote:
>
> The word Epoxy in a name does not mean very much. A one part epoxy
paint
> is misleading to most of us laymen. Most would be better off using
> anything else. The only Epoxy Paint that I have had any luck with is a
> Two Part (catalyzed) and must be mixed together but has had pot life
of a
> couple of hours at most temps. My advice is don't waste your time or
> money on so called "one part epoxy paint". My 2c worth.
>
> On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 13:55:07 -0000 "Bob Chamberland"
> <chamberlands@...> writes:
> Hi James, Your epoxy paint supplier can probably answer your first
> question though he will probably not want to commit himself.
>
> You should not use epoxy paint on the bottom of your boat. You will
> get blisters if the boat is left in the water. This is the voice of
> experience. I used Interthane Plus on a boat years ago. It spent the
> summer on a mooring in 43 degree water. At the time I took it out it
> had plenty of blister. The epoxy paints I've seen are topside paints
> only. Epoxy paint is not the same as the usual epoxy for glueing and
> coating. It will skin over while you are trying to set the glass in
> place and you will probably have one heck of a mess.
>
> Epoxy (not the paint) should not be thinned though when it is thinned
> acetone is usually used. One advantage of epoxy is that it cures
> chemically without leaving the voids that evaporating thinners leave.
> This is what gives it its water resistance. There is some question of
> whether adding thinner aids penetration but it does leave voids for
sure.
>
>
> Epoxy paint is UV resistant mostly by means of the pigment I think.
> Dark colors do fade. The paint can will tell you what to use for
> thinner. Epoxy paint is not usually thinned except when evaporation is
> too fast-hot dry days. If your boat is going to be moored it would be
> a good idea to glass the bottom with epoxy (not paint) use a barrier
> coat then bottom paint and read the directions on the can.
> Bob Chamberland
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "howgegoboat" <howgegoboat@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi I was just wondering if anyone had an answer for me.
> > I am building a plywood 23' sailing yacht, long concrete keel etc,
and
> > was wondering if it is possible to use glass cloth in epoxy paint, I
> > know you can use anti slip in epoxy paint so why not glass cloth? I
> > don't need the glass for strength just for abrasion and water
> > resistance. I can get epoxy paint very cheap.
> > Also what can I use to thin it. I am told that to thin the first coat
> > means that the penentration is better and will give a better hold on
> > the plywood bottom. 3/4" incidentally. Also is epoxy paint resistant
> > to UV?
> > See Backyard boat building 3 for pics - Offcut special!
> > YOurs James
> >
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, john h wright <jhargrovewright2@...>
wrote:
What do people think of latex exterior paint,
Bitumen paint,
Polyuathane floor paint,
John Welsford recomends paint is as good as epoxy,
May be resigned to epoxy!
Epoxy is expensive in Uk.
Also glues I have been using polyuathane building glue.
As tested in serveral places - brown cartridge glue!
Titebond two seems to brittle to me especialy when used with
softwood which is more flexable than hardwoods
Yours james.
wrote:
>Hi thanks for the advice,seemed to good to be true!
What do people think of latex exterior paint,
Bitumen paint,
Polyuathane floor paint,
John Welsford recomends paint is as good as epoxy,
May be resigned to epoxy!
Epoxy is expensive in Uk.
Also glues I have been using polyuathane building glue.
As tested in serveral places - brown cartridge glue!
Titebond two seems to brittle to me especialy when used with
softwood which is more flexable than hardwoods
Yours james.
> The word Epoxy in a name does not mean very much. A one partepoxy paint
> is misleading to most of us laymen. Most would be better off usingis a
> anything else. The only Epoxy Paint that I have had any luck with
> Two Part (catalyzed) and must be mixed together but has had potlife of a
> couple of hours at most temps. My advice is don't waste your timeor
> money on so called "one part epoxy paint". My 2c worth.the
>
> On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 13:55:07 -0000 "Bob Chamberland"
> <chamberlands@...> writes:
> Hi James, Your epoxy paint supplier can probably answer your first
> question though he will probably not want to commit himself.
>
> You should not use epoxy paint on the bottom of your boat. You will
> get blisters if the boat is left in the water. This is the voice of
> experience. I used Interthane Plus on a boat years ago. It spent
> summer on a mooring in 43 degree water. At the time I took it outit
> had plenty of blister. The epoxy paints I've seen are topsidepaints
> only. Epoxy paint is not the same as the usual epoxy for glueingand
> coating. It will skin over while you are trying to set the glass inthinned
> place and you will probably have one heck of a mess.
>
> Epoxy (not the paint) should not be thinned though when it is
> acetone is usually used. One advantage of epoxy is that it curesleave.
> chemically without leaving the voids that evaporating thinners
> This is what gives it its water resistance. There is some questionof
> whether adding thinner aids penetration but it does leave voidsfor sure.
>evaporation is
>
> Epoxy paint is UV resistant mostly by means of the pigment I think.
> Dark colors do fade. The paint can will tell you what to use for
> thinner. Epoxy paint is not usually thinned except when
> too fast-hot dry days. If your boat is going to be moored it wouldbe
> a good idea to glass the bottom with epoxy (not paint) use abarrier
> coat then bottom paint and read the directions on the can.etc, and
> Bob Chamberland
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "howgegoboat" <howgegoboat@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi I was just wondering if anyone had an answer for me.
> > I am building a plywood 23' sailing yacht, long concrete keel
> > was wondering if it is possible to use glass cloth in epoxypaint, I
> > know you can use anti slip in epoxy paint so why not glasscloth? I
> > don't need the glass for strength just for abrasion and watercoat
> > resistance. I can get epoxy paint very cheap.
> > Also what can I use to thin it. I am told that to thin the first
> > means that the penentration is better and will give a betterhold on
> > the plywood bottom. 3/4" incidentally. Also is epoxy paintresistant
> > to UV?
> > See Backyard boat building 3 for pics - Offcut special!
> > YOurs James
> >
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
The word Epoxy in a name does not mean very much. A one part epoxy paint
is misleading to most of us laymen. Most would be better off using
anything else. The only Epoxy Paint that I have had any luck with is a
Two Part (catalyzed) and must be mixed together but has had pot life of a
couple of hours at most temps. My advice is don't waste your time or
money on so called "one part epoxy paint". My 2c worth.
On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 13:55:07 -0000 "Bob Chamberland"
<chamberlands@...> writes:
Hi James, Your epoxy paint supplier can probably answer your first
question though he will probably not want to commit himself.
You should not use epoxy paint on the bottom of your boat. You will
get blisters if the boat is left in the water. This is the voice of
experience. I used Interthane Plus on a boat years ago. It spent the
summer on a mooring in 43 degree water. At the time I took it out it
had plenty of blister. The epoxy paints I've seen are topside paints
only. Epoxy paint is not the same as the usual epoxy for glueing and
coating. It will skin over while you are trying to set the glass in
place and you will probably have one heck of a mess.
Epoxy (not the paint) should not be thinned though when it is thinned
acetone is usually used. One advantage of epoxy is that it cures
chemically without leaving the voids that evaporating thinners leave.
This is what gives it its water resistance. There is some question of
whether adding thinner aids penetration but it does leave voids for sure.
Epoxy paint is UV resistant mostly by means of the pigment I think.
Dark colors do fade. The paint can will tell you what to use for
thinner. Epoxy paint is not usually thinned except when evaporation is
too fast-hot dry days. If your boat is going to be moored it would be
a good idea to glass the bottom with epoxy (not paint) use a barrier
coat then bottom paint and read the directions on the can.
Bob Chamberland
is misleading to most of us laymen. Most would be better off using
anything else. The only Epoxy Paint that I have had any luck with is a
Two Part (catalyzed) and must be mixed together but has had pot life of a
couple of hours at most temps. My advice is don't waste your time or
money on so called "one part epoxy paint". My 2c worth.
On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 13:55:07 -0000 "Bob Chamberland"
<chamberlands@...> writes:
Hi James, Your epoxy paint supplier can probably answer your first
question though he will probably not want to commit himself.
You should not use epoxy paint on the bottom of your boat. You will
get blisters if the boat is left in the water. This is the voice of
experience. I used Interthane Plus on a boat years ago. It spent the
summer on a mooring in 43 degree water. At the time I took it out it
had plenty of blister. The epoxy paints I've seen are topside paints
only. Epoxy paint is not the same as the usual epoxy for glueing and
coating. It will skin over while you are trying to set the glass in
place and you will probably have one heck of a mess.
Epoxy (not the paint) should not be thinned though when it is thinned
acetone is usually used. One advantage of epoxy is that it cures
chemically without leaving the voids that evaporating thinners leave.
This is what gives it its water resistance. There is some question of
whether adding thinner aids penetration but it does leave voids for sure.
Epoxy paint is UV resistant mostly by means of the pigment I think.
Dark colors do fade. The paint can will tell you what to use for
thinner. Epoxy paint is not usually thinned except when evaporation is
too fast-hot dry days. If your boat is going to be moored it would be
a good idea to glass the bottom with epoxy (not paint) use a barrier
coat then bottom paint and read the directions on the can.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "howgegoboat" <howgegoboat@...> wrote:
>
> Hi I was just wondering if anyone had an answer for me.
> I am building a plywood 23' sailing yacht, long concrete keel etc, and
> was wondering if it is possible to use glass cloth in epoxy paint, I
> know you can use anti slip in epoxy paint so why not glass cloth? I
> don't need the glass for strength just for abrasion and water
> resistance. I can get epoxy paint very cheap.
> Also what can I use to thin it. I am told that to thin the first coat
> means that the penentration is better and will give a better hold on
> the plywood bottom. 3/4" incidentally. Also is epoxy paint resistant
> to UV?
> See Backyard boat building 3 for pics - Offcut special!
> YOurs James
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi James, Your epoxy paint supplier can probably answer your first
question though he will probably not want to commit himself.
You should not use epoxy paint on the bottom of your boat. You will
get blisters if the boat is left in the water. This is the voice of
experience. I used Interthane Plus on a boat years ago. It spent the
summer on a mooring in 43 degree water. At the time I took it out it
had plenty of blister. The epoxy paints I've seen are topside paints
only. Epoxy paint is not the same as the usual epoxy for glueing and
coating. It will skin over while you are trying to set the glass in
place and you will probably have one heck of a mess.
Epoxy (not the paint) should not be thinned though when it is thinned
acetone is usually used. One advantage of epoxy is that it cures
chemically without leaving the voids that evaporating thinners leave.
This is what gives it its water resistance. There is some question of
whether adding thinner aids penetration but it does leave voids for sure.
Epoxy paint is UV resistant mostly by means of the pigment I think.
Dark colors do fade. The paint can will tell you what to use for
thinner. Epoxy paint is not usually thinned except when evaporation is
too fast-hot dry days. If your boat is going to be moored it would be
a good idea to glass the bottom with epoxy (not paint) use a barrier
coat then bottom paint and read the directions on the can.
Bob Chamberland
question though he will probably not want to commit himself.
You should not use epoxy paint on the bottom of your boat. You will
get blisters if the boat is left in the water. This is the voice of
experience. I used Interthane Plus on a boat years ago. It spent the
summer on a mooring in 43 degree water. At the time I took it out it
had plenty of blister. The epoxy paints I've seen are topside paints
only. Epoxy paint is not the same as the usual epoxy for glueing and
coating. It will skin over while you are trying to set the glass in
place and you will probably have one heck of a mess.
Epoxy (not the paint) should not be thinned though when it is thinned
acetone is usually used. One advantage of epoxy is that it cures
chemically without leaving the voids that evaporating thinners leave.
This is what gives it its water resistance. There is some question of
whether adding thinner aids penetration but it does leave voids for sure.
Epoxy paint is UV resistant mostly by means of the pigment I think.
Dark colors do fade. The paint can will tell you what to use for
thinner. Epoxy paint is not usually thinned except when evaporation is
too fast-hot dry days. If your boat is going to be moored it would be
a good idea to glass the bottom with epoxy (not paint) use a barrier
coat then bottom paint and read the directions on the can.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "howgegoboat" <howgegoboat@...> wrote:
>
> Hi I was just wondering if anyone had an answer for me.
> I am building a plywood 23' sailing yacht, long concrete keel etc, and
> was wondering if it is possible to use glass cloth in epoxy paint, I
> know you can use anti slip in epoxy paint so why not glass cloth? I
> don't need the glass for strength just for abrasion and water
> resistance. I can get epoxy paint very cheap.
> Also what can I use to thin it. I am told that to thin the first coat
> means that the penentration is better and will give a better hold on
> the plywood bottom. 3/4" incidentally. Also is epoxy paint resistant
> to UV?
> See Backyard boat building 3 for pics - Offcut special!
> YOurs James
>
Hi I was just wondering if anyone had an answer for me.
I am building a plywood 23' sailing yacht, long concrete keel etc, and
was wondering if it is possible to use glass cloth in epoxy paint, I
know you can use anti slip in epoxy paint so why not glass cloth? I
don't need the glass for strength just for abrasion and water
resistance. I can get epoxy paint very cheap.
Also what can I use to thin it. I am told that to thin the first coat
means that the penentration is better and will give a better hold on
the plywood bottom. 3/4" incidentally. Also is epoxy paint resistant
to UV?
See Backyard boat building 3 for pics - Offcut special!
YOurs James
I am building a plywood 23' sailing yacht, long concrete keel etc, and
was wondering if it is possible to use glass cloth in epoxy paint, I
know you can use anti slip in epoxy paint so why not glass cloth? I
don't need the glass for strength just for abrasion and water
resistance. I can get epoxy paint very cheap.
Also what can I use to thin it. I am told that to thin the first coat
means that the penentration is better and will give a better hold on
the plywood bottom. 3/4" incidentally. Also is epoxy paint resistant
to UV?
See Backyard boat building 3 for pics - Offcut special!
YOurs James