Re: [bolger] Re: Topaz Repairs
I've not worked with caulk, but with paint, if I feel like I waited too
long, I carefully cut along the tape line with an Exacto knife so that I
won't pull up a jagged line of cured paint. Should work with caulk, too.
Patrick
David wrote:
long, I carefully cut along the tape line with an Exacto knife so that I
won't pull up a jagged line of cured paint. Should work with caulk, too.
Patrick
David wrote:
> Rhett,
>
> There's ideal, and practical. The ideal is to pull the tape -
> carefully - after the caulk has skinned over, but before it's fully
> cured. The idea is to not pull it so soon that the caulk might ooze
> over where the tape had been. At the same time, if you've been sloppy,
> and gotten lotsa caulk on your tape, pulling it after full cure is
> liable to tear & shred your caulk line. Messy. From a practical
> standpoint, I'm very seldom able to be there to pull the tape at the
> exact perfect time. I try not to be too sloppy with the caulk
> application. Then I just aim for ASAP after it skins over.
>
> Cheers,
> David Graybeal
> Portland, OR
>
> "The brave man carves out his fortune, and every man is the son of his
> own works" -- Cervantes
>
> ***************
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "ravenouspi" <ravenous@...> wrote:
>
>> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@> wrote:
>>
>>> On 7/21/06, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Whatever you use, use tape, on both sides of the seam.
>>>>
>>> Masking tape is the secret to good looking caulk jobs, I agree.
>>>
>>>
>> Hey guys,
>> do I pull the tape up as soon as I have the caulk applied, do I wait
>> until it has cured? or somewhere in between?
>> Rhett
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Rhett,
There's ideal, and practical. The ideal is to pull the tape -
carefully - after the caulk has skinned over, but before it's fully
cured. The idea is to not pull it so soon that the caulk might ooze
over where the tape had been. At the same time, if you've been sloppy,
and gotten lotsa caulk on your tape, pulling it after full cure is
liable to tear & shred your caulk line. Messy. From a practical
standpoint, I'm very seldom able to be there to pull the tape at the
exact perfect time. I try not to be too sloppy with the caulk
application. Then I just aim for ASAP after it skins over.
Cheers,
David Graybeal
Portland, OR
"The brave man carves out his fortune, and every man is the son of his
own works" -- Cervantes
***************
There's ideal, and practical. The ideal is to pull the tape -
carefully - after the caulk has skinned over, but before it's fully
cured. The idea is to not pull it so soon that the caulk might ooze
over where the tape had been. At the same time, if you've been sloppy,
and gotten lotsa caulk on your tape, pulling it after full cure is
liable to tear & shred your caulk line. Messy. From a practical
standpoint, I'm very seldom able to be there to pull the tape at the
exact perfect time. I try not to be too sloppy with the caulk
application. Then I just aim for ASAP after it skins over.
Cheers,
David Graybeal
Portland, OR
"The brave man carves out his fortune, and every man is the son of his
own works" -- Cervantes
***************
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "ravenouspi" <ravenous@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@> wrote:
> >
> > On 7/21/06, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@> wrote:
> > > Whatever you use, use tape, on both sides of the seam.
> >
> > Masking tape is the secret to good looking caulk jobs, I agree.
> >
> Hey guys,
> do I pull the tape up as soon as I have the caulk applied, do I wait
> until it has cured? or somewhere in between?
> Rhett
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
do I pull the tape up as soon as I have the caulk applied, do I wait
until it has cured? or somewhere in between?
Rhett
>Hey guys,
> On 7/21/06, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
> > Whatever you use, use tape, on both sides of the seam.
>
> Masking tape is the secret to good looking caulk jobs, I agree.
>
do I pull the tape up as soon as I have the caulk applied, do I wait
until it has cured? or somewhere in between?
Rhett
On 7/21/06, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
> Whatever you use, use tape, on both sides of the seam.Masking tape is the secret to good looking caulk jobs, I agree.
Rhett, thanks for the kind words. Whatever you use,
use tape, on both sides of the seam. The difference
between the relatively neat caulk between the cabin
top and the bulkheads inside, and the mess between
rails and the cabin top outside: tape. If I had put
those rails on in the garage where I built her, she
would still be there--I had to take the trim down from
the door opening to get her out as it was. They went
on out in the weather, in a heck of a hurry. If you
are going to take the rails off, and you are ambitions
about it, under the paint they are beautifully clear
mahogany that could be finished bright, if that suits
your paint scheme. By the way, PB calls those rails
"handholds" and they are supposed to allow you to walk
around the boat outside the cabin. This requires a
foothold on the combined thickness of the clamp,
topsides and rub-rail, in other words a little over
3". I have done it once or twice, but not in the
winter with a sea running! Sam
--- ravenouspi <ravenous@...> wrote:
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use tape, on both sides of the seam. The difference
between the relatively neat caulk between the cabin
top and the bulkheads inside, and the mess between
rails and the cabin top outside: tape. If I had put
those rails on in the garage where I built her, she
would still be there--I had to take the trim down from
the door opening to get her out as it was. They went
on out in the weather, in a heck of a hurry. If you
are going to take the rails off, and you are ambitions
about it, under the paint they are beautifully clear
mahogany that could be finished bright, if that suits
your paint scheme. By the way, PB calls those rails
"handholds" and they are supposed to allow you to walk
around the boat outside the cabin. This requires a
foothold on the combined thickness of the clamp,
topsides and rub-rail, in other words a little over
3". I have done it once or twice, but not in the
winter with a sea running! Sam
--- ravenouspi <ravenous@...> wrote:
> I bought Spat, the Bolger Topaz from Sam Glasscock__________________________________________________
> in January.
> What a wonderful boat.
> Dianne and I immediately pressed it into service and
> had so much fun
> that we couldn't bear to put it up long enough to
> make all the repairs
> and rejuvenations we had originally planned.
> But having hit a submerged log in the Altamaha and
> put a significant
> crack in the "sacrificial" bow chamber, we had no
> choice but to stop
> our obsessive weekend cruising to effect that
> repair. So now we are
> giving it a total makeover. It is truly a well
> built boat, despite
> Sam's modest "woodbutcher" comments. So most of what
> we are doing is
> cosmetic.
> The bottom repair is complete except for plugging
> the holes I used to
> drain and dry out the chamber.
> So we have begun work on the (forgive my
> terminology) the roof of the
> cabin. There are two parallel wooden runners on top
> of the roof that
> are spaced about 3 to 4 feet apart and run from
> front to back. They
> make good rubrails for the dingy, but their primary
> purpose, I'm
> guessing is to divert the flow of water off of the
> roof to the front
> and back and away from the sides and the windows.
> The original caulking in some of the areas aft has
> hardened and
> separated from the roof,leaving little cracks less
> than a sixteenth of
> an inch. And we've noticed some of the stainless
> screws that go up
> through the ceiling inside to hold these strips on,
> have begun to drip
> in heavy rains. It looks as if Sam used two
> different types of caulk
> or applied some more recently, because as I set
> about scraping and
> chiseling (oh, so carefully) the old stuff out, it
> seems to have
> varying properties. Some areas the caulking seems
> hard and inflexible,
> and it is these areas which have cracked, letting in
> the water. Other
> areas the caulking seems flexible and still very
> watertight, but this
> type of caulk seems to have puddled and over time
> spread outwards over
> half an inch or so making an unsightly seam.
> The only type of caulk I have in my shed is the
> clear silicone kind
> which is really messy to work with.
> So my question is (thought I'd never get there) what
> kind of caulk or
> caulk-like product can I use to seal these runners.
> I need something
> flexible enough to deal with the minor flexing of
> the roof caused when
> people go topside for sunning, or temperature, or
> whatever might cause
> minute movement between the runners and the plywood
> roof. But this is
> Georgia and it gets HOT. So the caulk has to be able
> to withstand high
> temperatures. I'd like to make a nice cove shaped
> 1/4 inch fillet and
> paint over it. I'd rather not have a blobby bead on
> both sides--but
> the primary consideration is stopping the water from
> getting into the
> ply roof from around those fasteners. And of
> course, I would like the
> solution to last a few years at least.
> I thought about just using epoxy, but I figured
> without tape it would
> probably crack too, and fiberglass taped fillets for
> 1 3/4 high
> runners seems ridiculous overkill. Any suggestions.
> I figured
> amongst all of the Bolger builders out there, some
> of you are bound to
> have hit on just the right thing for a job like
> this. Thanks as always.
> Rhett
>
>
>
>
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3M101, not silicone. Remove runners and clean off old caulk. Tape off
areas each side of runners and the sides of the runners. Put fasteners
through roof and then put rubber washers on fasteners, apply plenty of
3M101 and screw down runners. Washers prevent you from squeezing out all
the sealant, a prime cause of sealant failure. The tape makes clean up easy.
Paul Esterle
Freelance Boating Writer
Columbia 10.7, 26 & Matilda 20
North East, MD.
www.captnpauley.com
pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
areas each side of runners and the sides of the runners. Put fasteners
through roof and then put rubber washers on fasteners, apply plenty of
3M101 and screw down runners. Washers prevent you from squeezing out all
the sealant, a prime cause of sealant failure. The tape makes clean up easy.
Paul Esterle
Freelance Boating Writer
Columbia 10.7, 26 & Matilda 20
North East, MD.
www.captnpauley.com
pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
I bought Spat, the Bolger Topaz from Sam Glasscock in January.
What a wonderful boat.
Dianne and I immediately pressed it into service and had so much fun
that we couldn't bear to put it up long enough to make all the repairs
and rejuvenations we had originally planned.
But having hit a submerged log in the Altamaha and put a significant
crack in the "sacrificial" bow chamber, we had no choice but to stop
our obsessive weekend cruising to effect that repair. So now we are
giving it a total makeover. It is truly a well built boat, despite
Sam's modest "woodbutcher" comments. So most of what we are doing is
cosmetic.
The bottom repair is complete except for plugging the holes I used to
drain and dry out the chamber.
So we have begun work on the (forgive my terminology) the roof of the
cabin. There are two parallel wooden runners on top of the roof that
are spaced about 3 to 4 feet apart and run from front to back. They
make good rubrails for the dingy, but their primary purpose, I'm
guessing is to divert the flow of water off of the roof to the front
and back and away from the sides and the windows.
The original caulking in some of the areas aft has hardened and
separated from the roof,leaving little cracks less than a sixteenth of
an inch. And we've noticed some of the stainless screws that go up
through the ceiling inside to hold these strips on, have begun to drip
in heavy rains. It looks as if Sam used two different types of caulk
or applied some more recently, because as I set about scraping and
chiseling (oh, so carefully) the old stuff out, it seems to have
varying properties. Some areas the caulking seems hard and inflexible,
and it is these areas which have cracked, letting in the water. Other
areas the caulking seems flexible and still very watertight, but this
type of caulk seems to have puddled and over time spread outwards over
half an inch or so making an unsightly seam.
The only type of caulk I have in my shed is the clear silicone kind
which is really messy to work with.
So my question is (thought I'd never get there) what kind of caulk or
caulk-like product can I use to seal these runners. I need something
flexible enough to deal with the minor flexing of the roof caused when
people go topside for sunning, or temperature, or whatever might cause
minute movement between the runners and the plywood roof. But this is
Georgia and it gets HOT. So the caulk has to be able to withstand high
temperatures. I'd like to make a nice cove shaped 1/4 inch fillet and
paint over it. I'd rather not have a blobby bead on both sides--but
the primary consideration is stopping the water from getting into the
ply roof from around those fasteners. And of course, I would like the
solution to last a few years at least.
I thought about just using epoxy, but I figured without tape it would
probably crack too, and fiberglass taped fillets for 1 3/4 high
runners seems ridiculous overkill. Any suggestions. I figured
amongst all of the Bolger builders out there, some of you are bound to
have hit on just the right thing for a job like this. Thanks as always.
Rhett
What a wonderful boat.
Dianne and I immediately pressed it into service and had so much fun
that we couldn't bear to put it up long enough to make all the repairs
and rejuvenations we had originally planned.
But having hit a submerged log in the Altamaha and put a significant
crack in the "sacrificial" bow chamber, we had no choice but to stop
our obsessive weekend cruising to effect that repair. So now we are
giving it a total makeover. It is truly a well built boat, despite
Sam's modest "woodbutcher" comments. So most of what we are doing is
cosmetic.
The bottom repair is complete except for plugging the holes I used to
drain and dry out the chamber.
So we have begun work on the (forgive my terminology) the roof of the
cabin. There are two parallel wooden runners on top of the roof that
are spaced about 3 to 4 feet apart and run from front to back. They
make good rubrails for the dingy, but their primary purpose, I'm
guessing is to divert the flow of water off of the roof to the front
and back and away from the sides and the windows.
The original caulking in some of the areas aft has hardened and
separated from the roof,leaving little cracks less than a sixteenth of
an inch. And we've noticed some of the stainless screws that go up
through the ceiling inside to hold these strips on, have begun to drip
in heavy rains. It looks as if Sam used two different types of caulk
or applied some more recently, because as I set about scraping and
chiseling (oh, so carefully) the old stuff out, it seems to have
varying properties. Some areas the caulking seems hard and inflexible,
and it is these areas which have cracked, letting in the water. Other
areas the caulking seems flexible and still very watertight, but this
type of caulk seems to have puddled and over time spread outwards over
half an inch or so making an unsightly seam.
The only type of caulk I have in my shed is the clear silicone kind
which is really messy to work with.
So my question is (thought I'd never get there) what kind of caulk or
caulk-like product can I use to seal these runners. I need something
flexible enough to deal with the minor flexing of the roof caused when
people go topside for sunning, or temperature, or whatever might cause
minute movement between the runners and the plywood roof. But this is
Georgia and it gets HOT. So the caulk has to be able to withstand high
temperatures. I'd like to make a nice cove shaped 1/4 inch fillet and
paint over it. I'd rather not have a blobby bead on both sides--but
the primary consideration is stopping the water from getting into the
ply roof from around those fasteners. And of course, I would like the
solution to last a few years at least.
I thought about just using epoxy, but I figured without tape it would
probably crack too, and fiberglass taped fillets for 1 3/4 high
runners seems ridiculous overkill. Any suggestions. I figured
amongst all of the Bolger builders out there, some of you are bound to
have hit on just the right thing for a job like this. Thanks as always.
Rhett