Re: [bolger] Digest Number 2964
Chris, you have given me a lot to think about. The
deck house is on a Cheoy Lee Monterey Clipper, a
salmon-troller type boat. It has a high motor-vessel
type house, and I would like to keep it painted. What
if I strip it to the extent possible, hit all the bare
wood with an epoxy sealer, then overcoat with a good
latex primer and acrylic topcoat? I have always used
latex on the topsides and superstructure of ply-epoxy
boats with good results, but this is my first real
wooden boat, and I had assumed (maybe wrongly) that
oil-based marine paint was better for the topside
planking, cabin and housesides.
--- Chris Crandall <crandall@...> wrote:
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deck house is on a Cheoy Lee Monterey Clipper, a
salmon-troller type boat. It has a high motor-vessel
type house, and I would like to keep it painted. What
if I strip it to the extent possible, hit all the bare
wood with an epoxy sealer, then overcoat with a good
latex primer and acrylic topcoat? I have always used
latex on the topsides and superstructure of ply-epoxy
boats with good results, but this is my first real
wooden boat, and I had assumed (maybe wrongly) that
oil-based marine paint was better for the topside
planking, cabin and housesides.
--- Chris Crandall <crandall@...> wrote:
> Don't do it. Really. Latex paint (assuming you've__________________________________________________
> got acrylic "latex"
> on her) is made to be flexible. It is quite
> dynamic, and this is a
> good, good thing. Putting oil-based paint on top of
> her is a bad match.
> The reason is that oil-based paints are not as
> flexible, and as a
> result, they will check and flake off. You must
> match your primer to
> your topcoat. While you can occasionally get away
> with latex over
> oil-primer, you should not attempt oil over latex
> primer.
>
> I agree that the perfect is the enemy of the good.
> But the crappy is
> the enemy of the good, too, and that's what you'll
> have on your hands.
>
> Your deckhouse is teak boards? Alas, too bad it's
> not a teak veneer
> (like a Frisco Flyer).
>
> You could stick with latex, but you still wouldn't
> be out of the woods.
> I would strip her as much as is possible in a single
> day. That should
> be a lot. Then, I would degrease her as much as
> possible--that means
> lots of acetone and scrubbing. Then, a top quality
> exterior latex
> primer (I happen to favor Kilz II, which is thick
> and flexible). Then a
> topcoat or two of your choice. I believe that latex
> primer can stick to
> teak with proper preparation. It's not the easiest
> and it's not the
> best, but it would probably work.
>
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Along this same line has anyone tried pure acrylic over latex acrylic
primer. I primed the interior of my Elver with Latex acrylic thinking to
finsh with the same in a finish coat. Since some are saying use 100%
acrlicr have been thinking about using pure acrylic as a finish coat.
Any body have any experience with this. This might be better than the
oil paint in this thread.
Doug
Chris Crandall wrote:
primer. I primed the interior of my Elver with Latex acrylic thinking to
finsh with the same in a finish coat. Since some are saying use 100%
acrlicr have been thinking about using pure acrylic as a finish coat.
Any body have any experience with this. This might be better than the
oil paint in this thread.
Doug
Chris Crandall wrote:
>
> Don't do it. Really. Latex paint (assuming you've got acrylic "latex"
> on her) is made to be flexible. It is quite dynamic, and this is a
> good, good thing. Putting oil-based paint on top of her is a bad match.
> The reason is that oil-based paints are not as flexible, and as a
> result, they will check and flake off. You must match your primer to
> your topcoat. While you can occasionally get away with latex over
> oil-primer, you should not attempt oil over latex primer.
>
> I agree that the perfect is the enemy of the good. But the crappy is
> the enemy of the good, too, and that's what you'll have on your hands.
>
> Your deckhouse is teak boards? Alas, too bad it's not a teak veneer
> (like a Frisco Flyer).
>
> You could stick with latex, but you still wouldn't be out of the woods.
> I would strip her as much as is possible in a single day. That should
> be a lot. Then, I would degrease her as much as possible--that means
> lots of acetone and scrubbing. Then, a top quality exterior latex
> primer (I happen to favor Kilz II, which is thick and flexible). Then a
> topcoat or two of your choice. I believe that latex primer can stick to
> teak with proper preparation. It's not the easiest and it's not the
> best, but it would probably work.
>
> However, what you *really* should do is strip her down to the wood, and
> do *no* topcoat finishing. Just wash her with soap and water twice a
> year (gently). As you probably already know, teak alternates between
> soft and hard early/latewood, and stiff bristles can dig out the soft
> stuff. Maybe 3M pads, but not stiff plastic bristles.
>
> If you really want to seal the teak up, I would use a shellac first.
> That will seal up the oils. Then, an oil-based primer, then oil-based
> paint. You can do the same thing with epoxy, of course, and you can put
> any finish you like on top of epoxy (well, not Cetol, but I assume you
> aren't as crazy and tasteless as that).
>
> > I have a deckhouse which is made of teak boards. It
> > was painted by a previous owner with what I believe to
> > be latex paint. It didn't stick worth a darn to the
> > oily teak, but where it was over intact paint (the
> > majority of the house) it is in good shape. The best
> > bet would be to strip all the paint off and start
> > fresh, but on the theory that the perfect is the enemy
> > of the good (aka Glasscock's laziness principle) I
> > would like to leave she tight stuff in place. I
> > assume oil-based urethane is what I need over the
> > teak, but I don't know how well it will stick to the
> > latex. Any help/educated guess/speculation will be
> > gratefully accepted. Sam
> >
>
>
Don't do it. Really. Latex paint (assuming you've got acrylic "latex"
on her) is made to be flexible. It is quite dynamic, and this is a
good, good thing. Putting oil-based paint on top of her is a bad match.
The reason is that oil-based paints are not as flexible, and as a
result, they will check and flake off. You must match your primer to
your topcoat. While you can occasionally get away with latex over
oil-primer, you should not attempt oil over latex primer.
I agree that the perfect is the enemy of the good. But the crappy is
the enemy of the good, too, and that's what you'll have on your hands.
Your deckhouse is teak boards? Alas, too bad it's not a teak veneer
(like a Frisco Flyer).
You could stick with latex, but you still wouldn't be out of the woods.
I would strip her as much as is possible in a single day. That should
be a lot. Then, I would degrease her as much as possible--that means
lots of acetone and scrubbing. Then, a top quality exterior latex
primer (I happen to favor Kilz II, which is thick and flexible). Then a
topcoat or two of your choice. I believe that latex primer can stick to
teak with proper preparation. It's not the easiest and it's not the
best, but it would probably work.
However, what you *really* should do is strip her down to the wood, and
do *no* topcoat finishing. Just wash her with soap and water twice a
year (gently). As you probably already know, teak alternates between
soft and hard early/latewood, and stiff bristles can dig out the soft
stuff. Maybe 3M pads, but not stiff plastic bristles.
If you really want to seal the teak up, I would use a shellac first.
That will seal up the oils. Then, an oil-based primer, then oil-based
paint. You can do the same thing with epoxy, of course, and you can put
any finish you like on top of epoxy (well, not Cetol, but I assume you
aren't as crazy and tasteless as that).
on her) is made to be flexible. It is quite dynamic, and this is a
good, good thing. Putting oil-based paint on top of her is a bad match.
The reason is that oil-based paints are not as flexible, and as a
result, they will check and flake off. You must match your primer to
your topcoat. While you can occasionally get away with latex over
oil-primer, you should not attempt oil over latex primer.
I agree that the perfect is the enemy of the good. But the crappy is
the enemy of the good, too, and that's what you'll have on your hands.
Your deckhouse is teak boards? Alas, too bad it's not a teak veneer
(like a Frisco Flyer).
You could stick with latex, but you still wouldn't be out of the woods.
I would strip her as much as is possible in a single day. That should
be a lot. Then, I would degrease her as much as possible--that means
lots of acetone and scrubbing. Then, a top quality exterior latex
primer (I happen to favor Kilz II, which is thick and flexible). Then a
topcoat or two of your choice. I believe that latex primer can stick to
teak with proper preparation. It's not the easiest and it's not the
best, but it would probably work.
However, what you *really* should do is strip her down to the wood, and
do *no* topcoat finishing. Just wash her with soap and water twice a
year (gently). As you probably already know, teak alternates between
soft and hard early/latewood, and stiff bristles can dig out the soft
stuff. Maybe 3M pads, but not stiff plastic bristles.
If you really want to seal the teak up, I would use a shellac first.
That will seal up the oils. Then, an oil-based primer, then oil-based
paint. You can do the same thing with epoxy, of course, and you can put
any finish you like on top of epoxy (well, not Cetol, but I assume you
aren't as crazy and tasteless as that).
> I have a deckhouse which is made of teak boards. It
> was painted by a previous owner with what I believe to
> be latex paint. It didn't stick worth a darn to the
> oily teak, but where it was over intact paint (the
> majority of the house) it is in good shape. The best
> bet would be to strip all the paint off and start
> fresh, but on the theory that the perfect is the enemy
> of the good (aka Glasscock's laziness principle) I
> would like to leave she tight stuff in place. I
> assume oil-based urethane is what I need over the
> teak, but I don't know how well it will stick to the
> latex. Any help/educated guess/speculation will be
> gratefully accepted. Sam
>