Re: Nonferrous staples [was superbrick challenge]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Christopher Wetherill <wetherillc@...>
wrote:
I took 2 pieces of 2" galv heavy wall round conduit (OK, I had it on
hand) with a 2" hitch welded to one end of the first pipe section, and
the lower section of a 2 wheel dolly (which came in 2 sections to
begin with) welded to the end of the second.On top of the dolly at the
end of the pipe I drilled through the pipe and mounted a 2" ball. The
2 sections are joined with a threaded union, wrench tightened onto one
and hand tightened to the other during use.The dolly wheels are under
the boat trailer hitch, supporting the tongue. The tow vehicle is
attached at the other end 20' and gets my Catalina 22 down some
shallow ramps and into water deep enough to float the boat.
All broken down and carried on the side of the trailer.Easier to draw
than explain. Not for the status concious.
Cheers, David
wrote:
>I made a 20' tongue extension, though it was a bit of a "Rube Goldberg".
> Another approach would be to mount a standard off-roading winch on the
> front of the truck.
I took 2 pieces of 2" galv heavy wall round conduit (OK, I had it on
hand) with a 2" hitch welded to one end of the first pipe section, and
the lower section of a 2 wheel dolly (which came in 2 sections to
begin with) welded to the end of the second.On top of the dolly at the
end of the pipe I drilled through the pipe and mounted a 2" ball. The
2 sections are joined with a threaded union, wrench tightened onto one
and hand tightened to the other during use.The dolly wheels are under
the boat trailer hitch, supporting the tongue. The tow vehicle is
attached at the other end 20' and gets my Catalina 22 down some
shallow ramps and into water deep enough to float the boat.
All broken down and carried on the side of the trailer.Easier to draw
than explain. Not for the status concious.
Cheers, David
Another approach would be to mount a standard off-roading winch on the
front of the truck. That way, if you misjudge and back the truck down
a ramp you can't get back up, you run the winch out to a phone pole, for
example, and haul boat, trailer, and truck up the ramp.
V/R
Chris
Paul wrote:
front of the truck. That way, if you misjudge and back the truck down
a ramp you can't get back up, you run the winch out to a phone pole, for
example, and haul boat, trailer, and truck up the ramp.
V/R
Chris
Paul wrote:
> Then I need to make sure that any winch I buy for this purpose has
> both an out as well as in setting, otherwise it would make launching
> very difficult
>
> Paul
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
>> I bought one of those cheap electric winches. It does IN very well, but OUT is a pain. One has to release a "clutch" using wrenches.
>>
>> Roger
>> derbyrm@...
>>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Nels
>> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:00 PM
>> Subject: [bolger] Re: Nonferrous staples [was superbrick challenge]
>> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@> wrote:
>> The trailer guy has built a couple of trailers with a receiver at the head of the trailer and put the coupler on a piece of square steel tube that fits it. His suggestion was to do this but to make a second coupler on a 20' length of steel tube so that we can get it deep enough without submerging the truck.
>>
>> Paul
>> I would use a short piece of tubing that fits the receiver and mount a winch on it. Then have a dolly wheel on the trailer tongue.
>>
>> If there is any slope to the launch site the trailer can be lowered into the water using the winch. I have a hand winch with 50' of cable but PCB&F also suggest a 12 vdc power winch, connected to the truck battery. These can be purchased for almost the same price as a 2-speed hand winch. ($50 or so.)
>>
>> Nels
>>
>>
>
Then I need to make sure that any winch I buy for this purpose has
both an out as well as in setting, otherwise it would make launching
very difficult
Paul
both an out as well as in setting, otherwise it would make launching
very difficult
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> I bought one of those cheap electric winches. It does IN very
well, but OUT is a pain. One has to release a "clutch" using
wrenches.
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Nels
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:00 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Nonferrous staples [was superbrick
challenge]
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@> wrote:
> >
> > The trailer guy has built a couple of trailers with a receiver
at
> > the head of the trailer and put the coupler on a piece of
square
> > steel tube that fits it. His suggestion was to do this but to
make
> > a second coupler on a 20' length of steel tube so that we can
get it
> > deep enough without submerging the truck.
> >
> > Paul
> I would use a short piece of tubing that fits the receiver and
mount a
> winch on it. Then have a dolly wheel on the trailer tongue.
>
> If there is any slope to the launch site the trailer can be
lowered
> into the water using the winch. I have a hand winch with 50' of
cable
> but PCB&F also suggest a 12 vdc power winch, connected to the
truck
> battery. These can be purchased for almost the same price as a 2-
speed
> hand winch. ($50 or so.)
>
> Nels
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
I bought one of those cheap electric winches. It does IN very well, but OUT is a pain. One has to release a "clutch" using wrenches.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Nels
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:00 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Nonferrous staples [was superbrick challenge]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@...> wrote:
>
> The trailer guy has built a couple of trailers with a receiver at
> the head of the trailer and put the coupler on a piece of square
> steel tube that fits it. His suggestion was to do this but to make
> a second coupler on a 20' length of steel tube so that we can get it
> deep enough without submerging the truck.
>
> Paul
I would use a short piece of tubing that fits the receiver and mount a
winch on it. Then have a dolly wheel on the trailer tongue.
If there is any slope to the launch site the trailer can be lowered
into the water using the winch. I have a hand winch with 50' of cable
but PCB&F also suggest a 12 vdc power winch, connected to the truck
battery. These can be purchased for almost the same price as a 2-speed
hand winch. ($50 or so.)
Nels
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
That's a good idea too. I will discuss that with my trailer guy.
Paul
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: Nels
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:00 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Nonferrous staples [was superbrick challenge]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@...> wrote:
>
> The trailer guy has built a couple of trailers with a receiver at
> the head of the trailer and put the coupler on a piece of square
> steel tube that fits it. His suggestion was to do this but to make
> a second coupler on a 20' length of steel tube so that we can get it
> deep enough without submerging the truck.
>
> Paul
I would use a short piece of tubing that fits the receiver and mount a
winch on it. Then have a dolly wheel on the trailer tongue.
If there is any slope to the launch site the trailer can be lowered
into the water using the winch. I have a hand winch with 50' of cable
but PCB&F also suggest a 12 vdc power winch, connected to the truck
battery. These can be purchased for almost the same price as a 2-speed
hand winch. ($50 or so.)
Nels
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@...> wrote:
winch on it. Then have a dolly wheel on the trailer tongue.
If there is any slope to the launch site the trailer can be lowered
into the water using the winch. I have a hand winch with 50' of cable
but PCB&F also suggest a 12 vdc power winch, connected to the truck
battery. These can be purchased for almost the same price as a 2-speed
hand winch. ($50 or so.)
Nels
>I would use a short piece of tubing that fits the receiver and mount a
> The trailer guy has built a couple of trailers with a receiver at
> the head of the trailer and put the coupler on a piece of square
> steel tube that fits it. His suggestion was to do this but to make
> a second coupler on a 20' length of steel tube so that we can get it
> deep enough without submerging the truck.
>
> Paul
winch on it. Then have a dolly wheel on the trailer tongue.
If there is any slope to the launch site the trailer can be lowered
into the water using the winch. I have a hand winch with 50' of cable
but PCB&F also suggest a 12 vdc power winch, connected to the truck
battery. These can be purchased for almost the same price as a 2-speed
hand winch. ($50 or so.)
Nels
A while back I was in Walmart and in their clearance aisle they had
a Campbell-Hausfeld set with both a 18ga brad nailer and 1/4" craown
stapler for $50. It followed me home so I am well equipped for
stapling.
The trailer guy has built a couple of trailers with a receiver at
the head of the trailer and put the coupler on a piece of square
steel tube that fits it. His suggestion was to do this but to make
a second coupler on a 20' length of steel tube so that we can get it
deep enough without submerging the truck.
Paul
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "lakepepinmollyblue" <barryhill@...>
wrote:
a Campbell-Hausfeld set with both a 18ga brad nailer and 1/4" craown
stapler for $50. It followed me home so I am well equipped for
stapling.
The trailer guy has built a couple of trailers with a receiver at
the head of the trailer and put the coupler on a piece of square
steel tube that fits it. His suggestion was to do this but to make
a second coupler on a 20' length of steel tube so that we can get it
deep enough without submerging the truck.
Paul
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "lakepepinmollyblue" <barryhill@...>
wrote:
>and
> --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks, I will check them out too
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@> wrote:
> > >
> > > These guys are noticeably cheaper
> > >
> > > http://www.fastenerusa.com/products_c193229.html
> > >
> > > HJ
> > >
> > > Paul wrote:
> > > > I was looking for ones for my pneumatic stapler Lowe's only
> had
> > > > galvanized to fit. But I googled and found a source.
> > > >
> > > > http://www.stainless-nails-brads-
> staples.com/staples_18g_L14.htm
> > > >
> > > > Paul
>
> Thanks for the links. Saves some google time. Expands use of the
> brad nailer that I used with scrap blocks in a sort of stitch and
> glue technique to build the Oldshoe hull. A diagonal sidecutter
> works pretty well to pull and cut the buggers from the inside once
> the outside is taped. Also used the nailer to fasten/clamp rails
> a little framing where inside was inaccessable to tape. Might befinish
> better to leave stainless in there. As it is I'm sanding for
> in fits. Will post a picture when done. Might have to add astapler
> to the air tool collection after I replace the ancient Skilsaw.a
>
> The flatbed sounds good. Height being the trade-off. A 5th wheel
> would go down the road like a bandit but would sideways launch at
> shallow ramp as a lot of them are even without the low lake levelsgonna
> we have. Last Saturday I saw a pickup 20 yds. in the Mississippi,
> wet to the axles and the boat high and dry on the trailer
> yet! 'Spose anything that would carry and launch Superbrick is
> go deep. Dear departed Dad would've had a fit. The old trucker
> adjusted rollers till he could push off and winch on his fishing
> boat without getting the bearings wet!
>
> Bob
>
I have seen the pictures of LESTAT before and it came out
beautifully. I have been calling around today trying to find
suppliers and prices locally to compare MDO with other options for
superbrick
Paul
beautifully. I have been calling around today trying to find
suppliers and prices locally to compare MDO with other options for
superbrick
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@> wrote:
> >
> > Thats why the MDO is such a good suggestion, high quality wood,
> minimum
> > effort to finish good longevity.
> >
> > HJ
> >
> Hi Paul,
>
> If you look at the photos of Micro LESTAT in Bolger3 you will see
a
> boat that is built of MDO and is going on 15 years old now. Has
been
> outside most of it's life and still looks like new.
>
>http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger3/photos
>
> It is built of "Crezon" quality MDO and glassed up to the
waterline
> and on the decks - mostly for abrasion protection and a good
> watertight seal. I would certainly glass Superbrick, especially if
I
> had an offer for assistance from a guy like John Bell! In five
years
> time you will never regret taking him up on that offer:-)
>
>http://www.olypanel.com/industrial/crezon_mdo.php
>
> MDO plywood provides a superior paint surface to any other plywood
> unless you want to have a clear or bright finish showing the
> woodgrain underneath.
>
> Nels
>
Most of you have already seen these photos of my paper Superbrick model,
for for those who have not:
http://hallman.org/bolger/Superbrick/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
for for those who have not:
http://hallman.org/bolger/Superbrick/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@...> wrote:
brad nailer that I used with scrap blocks in a sort of stitch and
glue technique to build the Oldshoe hull. A diagonal sidecutter
works pretty well to pull and cut the buggers from the inside once
the outside is taped. Also used the nailer to fasten/clamp rails and
a little framing where inside was inaccessable to tape. Might be
better to leave stainless in there. As it is I'm sanding for finish
in fits. Will post a picture when done. Might have to add a stapler
to the air tool collection after I replace the ancient Skilsaw.
The flatbed sounds good. Height being the trade-off. A 5th wheel
would go down the road like a bandit but would sideways launch at a
shallow ramp as a lot of them are even without the low lake levels
we have. Last Saturday I saw a pickup 20 yds. in the Mississippi,
wet to the axles and the boat high and dry on the trailer
yet! 'Spose anything that would carry and launch Superbrick is gonna
go deep. Dear departed Dad would've had a fit. The old trucker
adjusted rollers till he could push off and winch on his fishing
boat without getting the bearings wet!
Bob
>had
> Thanks, I will check them out too
>
> Paul
>
> --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@> wrote:
> >
> > These guys are noticeably cheaper
> >
> > http://www.fastenerusa.com/products_c193229.html
> >
> > HJ
> >
> > Paul wrote:
> > > I was looking for ones for my pneumatic stapler Lowe's only
> > > galvanized to fit. But I googled and found a source.staples.com/staples_18g_L14.htm
> > >
> > > http://www.stainless-nails-brads-
> > >Thanks for the links. Saves some google time. Expands use of the
> > > Paul
brad nailer that I used with scrap blocks in a sort of stitch and
glue technique to build the Oldshoe hull. A diagonal sidecutter
works pretty well to pull and cut the buggers from the inside once
the outside is taped. Also used the nailer to fasten/clamp rails and
a little framing where inside was inaccessable to tape. Might be
better to leave stainless in there. As it is I'm sanding for finish
in fits. Will post a picture when done. Might have to add a stapler
to the air tool collection after I replace the ancient Skilsaw.
The flatbed sounds good. Height being the trade-off. A 5th wheel
would go down the road like a bandit but would sideways launch at a
shallow ramp as a lot of them are even without the low lake levels
we have. Last Saturday I saw a pickup 20 yds. in the Mississippi,
wet to the axles and the boat high and dry on the trailer
yet! 'Spose anything that would carry and launch Superbrick is gonna
go deep. Dear departed Dad would've had a fit. The old trucker
adjusted rollers till he could push off and winch on his fishing
boat without getting the bearings wet!
Bob
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Clyde Wisner <clydewis@...> wrote:
heavier than the expensive grades of marine plywood like Okoume (30 lb
for a 3/8" 4X8 sheet) and Meranti (38 lb.)
Trouble is the 3/8" is hard to come by and 1/4" is non-existant. That
is when the meranti may be the best available choice.
http://www.noahsmarine.com/United_States/Plywoods-us/plywoods-us.html
Has nothing to do with getting old and more to do with poorer quality
fir I would say;-)
Nels
>MDO should be the same weight as marine grade fir plywood. It is
> Does anybody have weight figures for MDO? I've been using some in my
> house and it seems heavy to me, but this could be old age. Clyde
>
heavier than the expensive grades of marine plywood like Okoume (30 lb
for a 3/8" 4X8 sheet) and Meranti (38 lb.)
Trouble is the 3/8" is hard to come by and 1/4" is non-existant. That
is when the meranti may be the best available choice.
http://www.noahsmarine.com/United_States/Plywoods-us/plywoods-us.html
Has nothing to do with getting old and more to do with poorer quality
fir I would say;-)
Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
If you look at the photos of Micro LESTAT in Bolger3 you will see a
boat that is built of MDO and is going on 15 years old now. Has been
outside most of it's life and still looks like new.
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger3/photos
It is built of "Crezon" quality MDO and glassed up to the waterline
and on the decks - mostly for abrasion protection and a good
watertight seal. I would certainly glass Superbrick, especially if I
had an offer for assistance from a guy like John Bell! In five years
time you will never regret taking him up on that offer:-)
http://www.olypanel.com/industrial/crezon_mdo.php
MDO plywood provides a superior paint surface to any other plywood
unless you want to have a clear or bright finish showing the
woodgrain underneath.
Nels
>minimum
> Thats why the MDO is such a good suggestion, high quality wood,
> effort to finish good longevity.Hi Paul,
>
> HJ
>
If you look at the photos of Micro LESTAT in Bolger3 you will see a
boat that is built of MDO and is going on 15 years old now. Has been
outside most of it's life and still looks like new.
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger3/photos
It is built of "Crezon" quality MDO and glassed up to the waterline
and on the decks - mostly for abrasion protection and a good
watertight seal. I would certainly glass Superbrick, especially if I
had an offer for assistance from a guy like John Bell! In five years
time you will never regret taking him up on that offer:-)
http://www.olypanel.com/industrial/crezon_mdo.php
MDO plywood provides a superior paint surface to any other plywood
unless you want to have a clear or bright finish showing the
woodgrain underneath.
Nels
The plans - in miniature - appear in BWAOM. Several views are also
on the Bolger boats group, look under brick and you will find a sub
file for superbrick.
I have built a tortoise and am putting finishing touches on a brick
and the lower hull assembly for superbrick is very similar
Paul
on the Bolger boats group, look under brick and you will find a sub
file for superbrick.
I have built a tortoise and am putting finishing touches on a brick
and the lower hull assembly for superbrick is very similar
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Willy" <horseman_36@...> wrote:
>
> ---A 20 foot rick sounds excellent to me
> I have a standard 8 footer I had no problem building.
> I cant figure how to post some pics yet though
> Where would i find the plans online for the 20 footer ?????In
>bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Hardy" <p_hardy@> wrote:
> >
> > definitely the 'looks good at 20 feet'. I am a practical
> boatbuilder, wanting a reliable sound hull, not a piece of art. I
> think this style suits the superbrick.
> >
> > Home depot rather than BS1088. I put the money into things that
> make it more practical and livable while foregoing the gold plate.
> >
> > Work a bit everyday. I run a ministorage and work on boat
> projects when not busy, which means I have lots of time to work
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Bruce Hallman
> > To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 10:37 AM
> > Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: superbrick challenge
> >
> >
> > On 8/11/06, Paul <p_hardy@> wrote:
> > > Certainly a day of sanding is worth a preview. I will let
you
> know
> > > when I get to that point.
> > >
> > > Paul
> >
> > I am curious what type of boatbuilder are you?
> >
> > The 'mirror finish, boats are a work of art' or 'good enough,
it
> looks
> > good at twenty feet' type.
> > The 'top quality BS1088' or the 'Home Depot shop grade'
plywood
> type.
> > The 'one Saturday a month' or the 'five day a week with a
hired
> hand' type.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Thanks, I will check them out too
Paul
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> These guys are noticeably cheaper
>
>http://www.fastenerusa.com/products_c193229.html
>
> HJ
>
> Paul wrote:
> > I was looking for ones for my pneumatic stapler Lowe's only had
> > galvanized to fit. But I googled and found a source.
> >
> >http://www.stainless-nails-brads-staples.com/staples_18g_L14.htm
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Christopher Wetherill
> > <wetherillc@> wrote:
> >
> >> I do not know if these are the type of staples you need, but I
get
> >>
> > monel
> >
> >> staples for my arrow staple gun at Lowes. They are great for
no
> >> trespassing signs.
> >>
> >> V/R
> >> Chris
> >>
> >> Bob Chamberland wrote:
> >>
> >>> Jamestown Fasteners.
> >>> Bob Chamberland >
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> lakepepinmollyblue <barryhill@> wrote:
> >>>> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@>
> >>>>
> > wrote:
> >
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> I have heard mentioned that there were staples available in
> >>>>>
> > either
> >
> >>>>> bronze or monel but have never located a source for them.
Does
> >>>>> anyone have any ideas for sources to try?
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Bolger rules!!!
> >>> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> >>> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
> >>>
> > flogging dead horses
> >
> >>> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
> >>>
> > Fred' posts
> >
> >>> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
> >>>
> > away
> >
> >>> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> >>>
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >
> >>> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >>> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-
> >>>
> >subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >>> Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-
subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Ah I see the difference, 304 vice 316. For quick and dirty boat building
304 is fine I would think.
HJ
Harry James wrote:
304 is fine I would think.
HJ
Harry James wrote:
> These guys are noticeably cheaper
>
>http://www.fastenerusa.com/products_c193229.html
>
> HJ
>
> Paul wrote:
>
>> I was looking for ones for my pneumatic stapler Lowe's only had
>> galvanized to fit. But I googled and found a source.
>>
>>http://www.stainless-nails-brads-staples.com/staples_18g_L14.htm
>>
>> Paul
>>
>> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Christopher Wetherill
>> <wetherillc@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I do not know if these are the type of staples you need, but I get
>>>
>>>
>> monel
>>
>>
>>> staples for my arrow staple gun at Lowes. They are great for no
>>> trespassing signs.
>>>
>>> V/R
>>> Chris
>>>
>>> Bob Chamberland wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> Jamestown Fasteners.
>>>> Bob Chamberland >
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> lakepepinmollyblue <barryhill@> wrote:
>>>>> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> I have heard mentioned that there were staples available in
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>> either
>>
>>
>>>>>> bronze or monel but have never located a source for them. Does
>>>>>> anyone have any ideas for sources to try?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Bolger rules!!!
>>>> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
>>>> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
>>>>
>>>>
>> flogging dead horses
>>
>>
>>>> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
>>>>
>>>>
>> Fred' posts
>>
>>
>>>> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
>>>>
>>>>
>> away
>>
>>
>>>> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>>>>
>>>>
>> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>>
>>
>>>> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>>> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-
>>>>
>>>>
>>subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bolger rules!!!
>> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
>> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
>> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
These guys are noticeably cheaper
http://www.fastenerusa.com/products_c193229.html
HJ
Paul wrote:
http://www.fastenerusa.com/products_c193229.html
HJ
Paul wrote:
> I was looking for ones for my pneumatic stapler Lowe's only had
> galvanized to fit. But I googled and found a source.
>
>http://www.stainless-nails-brads-staples.com/staples_18g_L14.htm
>
> Paul
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Christopher Wetherill
> <wetherillc@...> wrote:
>
>> I do not know if these are the type of staples you need, but I get
>>
> monel
>
>> staples for my arrow staple gun at Lowes. They are great for no
>> trespassing signs.
>>
>> V/R
>> Chris
>>
>> Bob Chamberland wrote:
>>
>>> Jamestown Fasteners.
>>> Bob Chamberland >
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> lakepepinmollyblue <barryhill@> wrote:
>>>> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@>
>>>>
> wrote:
>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I have heard mentioned that there were staples available in
>>>>>
> either
>
>>>>> bronze or monel but have never located a source for them. Does
>>>>> anyone have any ideas for sources to try?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bolger rules!!!
>>> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
>>> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
>>>
> flogging dead horses
>
>>> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
>>>
> Fred' posts
>
>>> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
>>>
> away
>
>>> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>>>
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>>> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-
>>>
>subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Try the lumber yards the builders use or look to see if there is a
fastener suply outfit in your area. We use 304 stainless for Ceder
Shingels that are 1/4" crown and 1-1/4 leg running about $320 a case
6/5000 count boxes.
Jon
fastener suply outfit in your area. We use 304 stainless for Ceder
Shingels that are 1/4" crown and 1-1/4 leg running about $320 a case
6/5000 count boxes.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@...> wrote:
>
> I was looking for ones for my pneumatic stapler Lowe's only had
> galvanized to fit. But I googled and found a source.
>
>http://www.stainless-nails-brads-staples.com/staples_18g_L14.htm
>
> Paul
I was looking for ones for my pneumatic stapler Lowe's only had
galvanized to fit. But I googled and found a source.
http://www.stainless-nails-brads-staples.com/staples_18g_L14.htm
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Christopher Wetherill
<wetherillc@...> wrote:
galvanized to fit. But I googled and found a source.
http://www.stainless-nails-brads-staples.com/staples_18g_L14.htm
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Christopher Wetherill
<wetherillc@...> wrote:
>monel
> I do not know if these are the type of staples you need, but I get
> staples for my arrow staple gun at Lowes. They are great for nowrote:
> trespassing signs.
>
> V/R
> Chris
>
> Bob Chamberland wrote:
> > Jamestown Fasteners.
> > Bob Chamberland >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> lakepepinmollyblue <barryhill@> wrote:
> >> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@>
> >>either
> >>> I have heard mentioned that there were staples available in
> >>> bronze or monel but have never located a source for them. Doesflogging dead horses
> >>> anyone have any ideas for sources to try?
> >>>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snipaway
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
I do not know if these are the type of staples you need, but I get monel
staples for my arrow staple gun at Lowes. They are great for no
trespassing signs.
V/R
Chris
Bob Chamberland wrote:
staples for my arrow staple gun at Lowes. They are great for no
trespassing signs.
V/R
Chris
Bob Chamberland wrote:
> Jamestown Fasteners.
> Bob Chamberland >
>
>
>
>
>> lakepepinmollyblue <barryhill@...> wrote:
>> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@> wrote:
>>
>>> I have heard mentioned that there were staples available in either
>>> bronze or monel but have never located a source for them. Does
>>> anyone have any ideas for sources to try?
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Jamestown Fasteners.
Bob Chamberland >
Bob Chamberland >
> lakepepinmollyblue <barryhill@...> wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@> wrote:
> >
> > I have heard mentioned that there were staples available in either
> > bronze or monel but have never located a source for them. Does
> > anyone have any ideas for sources to try?
I agree that superbrick is not a design that calls for an 'only the best will do' yacht finish. Part of what drew me to it was not only the layout but Phil's discussion of the design concept in BWAOM. It seems to fit my world view quite well.
Paul
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Hallman
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: superbrick challenge
> Where do you find MDO?
>
> Paul
Wholesale plywood companies. In the San Francisco Bay area, Channel
Lumber in Richmond. It is used by sign painting companies because it
is 'paint grade smooth' and tough enough to stand external exposure
for years, so you might call around to the sign companies and ask
where they buy theirs. "MDO stands for 'medium density overlay',
and the 'overlay' is resin impregnated paper fiber, really tough stuff
in my opinion. I believe that resin in paper is not a far fetch from
epoxy resin in fiberglass cloth. 'Good enough' for most boat uses,
unless you belong to the 'only the best is good enough' school of
boatbuilding, and IMO a Superbrick shouldn't belong to that school!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Where do you find MDO?Wholesale plywood companies. In the San Francisco Bay area, Channel
>
> Paul
Lumber in Richmond. It is used by sign painting companies because it
is 'paint grade smooth' and tough enough to stand external exposure
for years, so you might call around to the sign companies and ask
where they buy theirs. "MDO stands for 'medium density overlay',
and the 'overlay' is resin impregnated paper fiber, really tough stuff
in my opinion. I believe that resin in paper is not a far fetch from
epoxy resin in fiberglass cloth. 'Good enough' for most boat uses,
unless you belong to the 'only the best is good enough' school of
boatbuilding, and IMO a Superbrick shouldn't belong to that school!
Where do you find MDO?
Paul
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: Jon & Wanda(Tink)
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 12:24 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: superbrick challenge
I am useing MDO on a 32' sternwheeler 2 sided1/2" on the sides and 2
layers of3/8" coldmolded on the bottem. I am useing it in the same
way as I would use any quality ply. Glassing the outside and
encapsolating with epoxy. Epoxy will soak through the overlay and
into the ply as good as raw plywood. MDo was developed for signs and
holds up well if it is a good grade and is cheaper then Marine or ABX
in this area. The MDO prevents checking and makes a good face for
coating but is not a water seeler. Raw MDO if left out in the weather
will hold up better then any ply I have seen. I have a peice that has
been in the weather unprotected in the NW for 7 years and it is still
solid.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@...> wrote:
>
> A question about MDO. I have seen several people mention it for
use
> on boats but is it only used on the interior? Several boat sites
> have shown 2 sided MDO being used but even under paint or
fiberglass
> can the paper surface stand up to use in water?
>
> Paul
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I am with you on the planning. I think it must be genetic, when my
eldest is home on leave he will grab a plan in the shop and just make
shavings for therapy. For those interested in using their planes better
or making their own I highly recommend "Making and Mastering Wood
Planes" by David Finck. This book has made a huge difference in my
sharpening and use of planes. This is one of those texts where the
author can communicate the knowledge clearly and in an organized
fashion. It is a rare talent. The big deal for me was finally getting a
proper edge on block planes and finding out what you can do with those
on fitting pieces.
HJ
Patrick Crockett wrote:
eldest is home on leave he will grab a plan in the shop and just make
shavings for therapy. For those interested in using their planes better
or making their own I highly recommend "Making and Mastering Wood
Planes" by David Finck. This book has made a huge difference in my
sharpening and use of planes. This is one of those texts where the
author can communicate the knowledge clearly and in an organized
fashion. It is a rare talent. The big deal for me was finally getting a
proper edge on block planes and finding out what you can do with those
on fitting pieces.
HJ
Patrick Crockett wrote:
> I don't think I'd be happy with the air stapler -- my absolute favorite
> part of boat building is holding an iron on the inside and hammering in
> nails. (Next best part is planing bevels and taking off 4 or 5 foot long
> shavings.)
>
> Patrick
>
> Harry James wrote:
>
>> I used a stapler and 3/4 " stainless to build an Elegant Punt. Worked
>> great.
>>
>> HJ
>>
>> Bruce Hallman wrote:
>>
>>
>>>> Work a bit everyday. I run a ministorage and work on boat projects when not busy, which means I have lots of time to work
>>>>
>>>> Paul
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> I have thought through the process of building a Superbrick quite a
>>> bit!, including having built a model.
>>>
>>> Unsolicited advice, I recommend that you splurge (if needed) to get an
>>> air compressor so you can use a narrow crown air stapler, which can be
>>> incredibly useful holding things together, especially the 3/4 x 1 1/2"
>>> nailer edgings, while glue sets. I also would consider using some
>>> (maybe special order) paint grade MDO plywood because you can avoid a
>>> giant amount of glassing and sanding. You could use it many places,
>>> especially inside.
>>>
>>>
>>>
Does anybody have weight figures for MDO? I've been using some in my
house and it seems heavy to me, but this could be old age. Clyde
Harry James wrote:
house and it seems heavy to me, but this could be old age. Clyde
Harry James wrote:
> Thats why the MDO is such a good suggestion, high quality wood, minimum[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> effort to finish good longevity.
>
>
>
>
The epoxy "walked off" the floor of my Lily relatively quickly. I went
back and added a layer of glass and more epoxy and it seems tobe doing
better. Clyde
Paul wrote:
back and added a layer of glass and more epoxy and it seems tobe doing
better. Clyde
Paul wrote:
> Hmmm.... I will look into that further. I have wondered if it were[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> really necessary to encapsulate if the wood is well sealed and
> painted.
>
> All these options are on the table. I see superbrick as something
> built more workboat st
>
> .
>
>
Its interesting how various folks enjoy different aspects of boat
building. Hammering has never been one of my favorites. I prefer
either screws or pneumatics for fastening. What I most enjoy are
cutting pieces and glueing them up. There is something about the
gluing (usually epoxy) that I really relate to. This is probably
why I like the instant boats style best.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@...>
wrote:
building. Hammering has never been one of my favorites. I prefer
either screws or pneumatics for fastening. What I most enjoy are
cutting pieces and glueing them up. There is something about the
gluing (usually epoxy) that I really relate to. This is probably
why I like the instant boats style best.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@...>
wrote:
>favorite
> I don't think I'd be happy with the air stapler -- my absolute
> part of boat building is holding an iron on the inside andhammering in
> nails. (Next best part is planing bevels and taking off 4 or 5foot long
> shavings.)Worked
>
> Patrick
>
> Harry James wrote:
> > I used a stapler and 3/4 " stainless to build an Elegant Punt.
> > great.projects when not busy, which means I have lots of time to work
> >
> > HJ
> >
> > Bruce Hallman wrote:
> >
> >>> Work a bit everyday. I run a ministorage and work on boat
> >>>quite a
> >>> Paul
> >>>
> >>>
> >> I have thought through the process of building a Superbrick
> >> bit!, including having built a model.get an
> >>
> >> Unsolicited advice, I recommend that you splurge (if needed) to
> >> air compressor so you can use a narrow crown air stapler, whichcan be
> >> incredibly useful holding things together, especially the 3/4 x1 1/2"
> >> nailer edgings, while glue sets. I also would consider usingsome
> >> (maybe special order) paint grade MDO plywood because you canavoid a
> >> giant amount of glassing and sanding. You could use it manyplaces,
> >> especially inside.flogging dead horses
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snipaway
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
I am useing MDO on a 32' sternwheeler 2 sided1/2" on the sides and 2
layers of3/8" coldmolded on the bottem. I am useing it in the same
way as I would use any quality ply. Glassing the outside and
encapsolating with epoxy. Epoxy will soak through the overlay and
into the ply as good as raw plywood. MDo was developed for signs and
holds up well if it is a good grade and is cheaper then Marine or ABX
in this area. The MDO prevents checking and makes a good face for
coating but is not a water seeler. Raw MDO if left out in the weather
will hold up better then any ply I have seen. I have a peice that has
been in the weather unprotected in the NW for 7 years and it is still
solid.
Jon
layers of3/8" coldmolded on the bottem. I am useing it in the same
way as I would use any quality ply. Glassing the outside and
encapsolating with epoxy. Epoxy will soak through the overlay and
into the ply as good as raw plywood. MDo was developed for signs and
holds up well if it is a good grade and is cheaper then Marine or ABX
in this area. The MDO prevents checking and makes a good face for
coating but is not a water seeler. Raw MDO if left out in the weather
will hold up better then any ply I have seen. I have a peice that has
been in the weather unprotected in the NW for 7 years and it is still
solid.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@...> wrote:
>
> A question about MDO. I have seen several people mention it for
use
> on boats but is it only used on the interior? Several boat sites
> have shown 2 sided MDO being used but even under paint or
fiberglass
> can the paper surface stand up to use in water?
>
> Paul
A question about MDO. I have seen several people mention it for use
on boats but is it only used on the interior? Several boat sites
have shown 2 sided MDO being used but even under paint or fiberglass
can the paper surface stand up to use in water?
Paul
on boats but is it only used on the interior? Several boat sites
have shown 2 sided MDO being used but even under paint or fiberglass
can the paper surface stand up to use in water?
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> Thats why the MDO is such a good suggestion, high quality wood,
minimum
> effort to finish good longevity.
>
> HJ
>
> Paul wrote:
> > Hmmm.... I will look into that further. I have wondered if it
were
> > really necessary to encapsulate if the wood is well sealed and
> > painted.
> >
> > All these options are on the table. I see superbrick as
something
> > built more workboat style than yachty but I do want it to last
> > reasonably well.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@> wrote:
> >
> >> Here is something I have learned, its a waste of money and time
to
> >> encapsulate externally in less you use fiberglass also. The
epoxy
> >>
> > will
> >
> >> crack sooner or later,probably sooner. It doesn't have to be
heavy
> >> fiberglass, but you need the stabilization it brings to the
> >>
> > surface coat.
> >
> >> HJ
> >>
>
The basic idea my trailer guy says is for a flat bed with transverse
beds, the aft two being able to be lowered flat with the bed for
allowing the boat to be floated on or off.
The major problem for a float off trailer is that the wheels must be
underneath the hull, not to the sides as in trailers for a V hull.
This will make it sit higher than might be required otherwise.
Rather than a 5th wheel, we are looking at a standard hitch with a
tongue extender to allow it to be sent deeper into the water.
The plan is for the trailer to be finished about the same time as
the hull is turned over so the boat can be finished useing the
trailer as a cradle.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "lakepepinmollyblue" <barryhill@...>
wrote:
beds, the aft two being able to be lowered flat with the bed for
allowing the boat to be floated on or off.
The major problem for a float off trailer is that the wheels must be
underneath the hull, not to the sides as in trailers for a V hull.
This will make it sit higher than might be required otherwise.
Rather than a 5th wheel, we are looking at a standard hitch with a
tongue extender to allow it to be sent deeper into the water.
The plan is for the trailer to be finished about the same time as
the hull is turned over so the boat can be finished useing the
trailer as a cradle.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "lakepepinmollyblue" <barryhill@...>
wrote:
>helping
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@> wrote:
> >
> > I have a friend who fabricates special use trailers who is
> > me figure out one for it. Trailer camping with it is somethingI
> > hadn't thought about, it certainly is more roomy than the Serroweight.
> > Scotty Highlander I have now, perhaps worth a thought.
>
> And roomier than our '70's vintage American and about the same
> All I want to haul with my F 150. The idea convinced my wife thatwith.
> Superbrick was even worth consideration.
>
> Keep us posted. I'm curious to see what a trailer pro comes up
> Issues with roadability and ease of launching certainly presents abe an
> conundrum or three. A bigger pickup and a lowboy 5th wheel might
> answer. But then I can ill afford the truck let alone the fuel torun
> it very far! Oh well, a guy can dream and scheme. Maybe just buildthe
> Oldshoe and take off down the Mississippi.
>
> Bob
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@...> wrote:
All I want to haul with my F 150. The idea convinced my wife that
Superbrick was even worth consideration.
Keep us posted. I'm curious to see what a trailer pro comes up with.
Issues with roadability and ease of launching certainly presents a
conundrum or three. A bigger pickup and a lowboy 5th wheel might be an
answer. But then I can ill afford the truck let alone the fuel to run
it very far! Oh well, a guy can dream and scheme. Maybe just build the
Oldshoe and take off down the Mississippi.
Bob
>And roomier than our '70's vintage American and about the same weight.
> I have a friend who fabricates special use trailers who is helping
> me figure out one for it. Trailer camping with it is something I
> hadn't thought about, it certainly is more roomy than the Serro
> Scotty Highlander I have now, perhaps worth a thought.
All I want to haul with my F 150. The idea convinced my wife that
Superbrick was even worth consideration.
Keep us posted. I'm curious to see what a trailer pro comes up with.
Issues with roadability and ease of launching certainly presents a
conundrum or three. A bigger pickup and a lowboy 5th wheel might be an
answer. But then I can ill afford the truck let alone the fuel to run
it very far! Oh well, a guy can dream and scheme. Maybe just build the
Oldshoe and take off down the Mississippi.
Bob
Thats why the MDO is such a good suggestion, high quality wood, minimum
effort to finish good longevity.
HJ
Paul wrote:
effort to finish good longevity.
HJ
Paul wrote:
> Hmmm.... I will look into that further. I have wondered if it were
> really necessary to encapsulate if the wood is well sealed and
> painted.
>
> All these options are on the table. I see superbrick as something
> built more workboat style than yachty but I do want it to last
> reasonably well.
>
> Paul
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
>> Here is something I have learned, its a waste of money and time to
>> encapsulate externally in less you use fiberglass also. The epoxy
>>
> will
>
>> crack sooner or later,probably sooner. It doesn't have to be heavy
>> fiberglass, but you need the stabilization it brings to the
>>
> surface coat.
>
>> HJ
>>
Hmmm.... I will look into that further. I have wondered if it were
really necessary to encapsulate if the wood is well sealed and
painted.
All these options are on the table. I see superbrick as something
built more workboat style than yachty but I do want it to last
reasonably well.
Paul
really necessary to encapsulate if the wood is well sealed and
painted.
All these options are on the table. I see superbrick as something
built more workboat style than yachty but I do want it to last
reasonably well.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> Here is something I have learned, its a waste of money and time to
> encapsulate externally in less you use fiberglass also. The epoxy
will
> crack sooner or later,probably sooner. It doesn't have to be heavy
> fiberglass, but you need the stabilization it brings to the
surface coat.
>
> HJ
>
> Paul wrote:
> > I'm in Lilburn so its not too far.
> >
> > I haven't fully decided but I am leaning against fiberglassing,
> > going instead for just epoxy encapsulation and perhaps some
glass
> > tape on various seams.
> >
> > My rollover plan, when I get to that point, will be helped by
access
> > to a pair of forklifts to handle the heavy lifting so fewer
folks
> > will be needed to perform the task. Most of the rest will be
> > helping to guide things along so it should be a lot less
strenuous
> > than I have seen others go through.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John Bell (smallboatdesigner)"
> > <smallboatdesigner@> wrote:
> >
> >> Paul wrote:
> >>
> >>> Certainly a day of sanding is worth a preview. I will let you
> >>>
> > know
> >
> >>> when I get to that point.
> >>>
> >>> Paul
> >>>
> >>>
> >> I'm probably less than an hour away. Be sure to give me a call
if
> >>
> > you
> >
> >> need help along the way with turning or some other heavy
lifting
> >>
> > task.
> >
> >> I'm also a pretty fiberglasser if you go that route.
> >>
> >> I'm in the phone book.
> >>
> >> John Bell
> >> Kennesaw, GA
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-
subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
I have a friend who fabricates special use trailers who is helping
me figure out one for it. Trailer camping with it is something I
hadn't thought about, it certainly is more roomy than the Serro
Scotty Highlander I have now, perhaps worth a thought.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "lakepepinmollyblue" <barryhill@...>
wrote:
me figure out one for it. Trailer camping with it is something I
hadn't thought about, it certainly is more roomy than the Serro
Scotty Highlander I have now, perhaps worth a thought.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "lakepepinmollyblue" <barryhill@...>
wrote:
>either
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@> wrote:
> >
> > I have heard mentioned that there were staples available in
> > bronze or monel but have never located a source for them. DoesYears
> > anyone have any ideas for sources to try?
> >
>
> A Google search for "monel staple" turned up several suppliers in
> the Arrow T-50 size. There are electric guns that drive these.
> ago I ran into a North Shore canvas canoe builder that used these.are
> Air? I used an 18 ga. brad nailer building Shoebox but the brads
> galvanized.is
>
> When I got plans for Oldshoe Nels mused that Superbrick might be
> next. At that time I wasn't aware of the challenge. Ran across it
> recently and looked more closely at the boat. VERY interesting.
> Would replace the junk travel trailer nicely and float to boot. IF
> trailer problem was worked out. A trailer with little wheels would
> be OK for the short haul to the landing but long distance highway
> another kettle of fish. The ol' trucker in me wants to go down thewheels.
> Interstate all day without burning bearings and losing
>
> Anyway I'm committed to building Oldshoe so no competition for the
> challenge.
>
> Bob
>
I sure thought about it, I have a matched set of air guns one staple one
brad so that made the decision.
HJ
Rick Bedard wrote:
brad so that made the decision.
HJ
Rick Bedard wrote:
> Staples, brads and even ring shank nails in plastic from Raptor... Requires a special gun.
>
> Go here;
>http://www.raptornails.com/english/msds.html
>
> Looks good, however I don't know anyone who has experience with them. Under "Applications" you'll see boatbuilders Cutts & Case and TPI using them.
>
> Rick
>
>
I think Jamestown has them but they are T 50, not for an air stapler.
HJ
Paul wrote:
HJ
Paul wrote:
> I have heard mentioned that there were staples available in either
> bronze or monel but have never located a source for them. Does
> anyone have any ideas for sources to try?
>
> Paul
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
>> I used a stapler and 3/4 " stainless to build an Elegant Punt.
>>
> Worked
>
Here is something I have learned, its a waste of money and time to
encapsulate externally in less you use fiberglass also. The epoxy will
crack sooner or later,probably sooner. It doesn't have to be heavy
fiberglass, but you need the stabilization it brings to the surface coat.
HJ
Paul wrote:
encapsulate externally in less you use fiberglass also. The epoxy will
crack sooner or later,probably sooner. It doesn't have to be heavy
fiberglass, but you need the stabilization it brings to the surface coat.
HJ
Paul wrote:
> I'm in Lilburn so its not too far.
>
> I haven't fully decided but I am leaning against fiberglassing,
> going instead for just epoxy encapsulation and perhaps some glass
> tape on various seams.
>
> My rollover plan, when I get to that point, will be helped by access
> to a pair of forklifts to handle the heavy lifting so fewer folks
> will be needed to perform the task. Most of the rest will be
> helping to guide things along so it should be a lot less strenuous
> than I have seen others go through.
>
> Paul
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John Bell (smallboatdesigner)"
> <smallboatdesigner@...> wrote:
>
>> Paul wrote:
>>
>>> Certainly a day of sanding is worth a preview. I will let you
>>>
> know
>
>>> when I get to that point.
>>>
>>> Paul
>>>
>>>
>> I'm probably less than an hour away. Be sure to give me a call if
>>
> you
>
>> need help along the way with turning or some other heavy lifting
>>
> task.
>
>> I'm also a pretty fiberglasser if you go that route.
>>
>> I'm in the phone book.
>>
>> John Bell
>> Kennesaw, GA
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Staples, brads and even ring shank nails in plastic from Raptor... Requires a special gun.
Go here;
http://www.raptornails.com/english/msds.html
Looks good, however I don't know anyone who has experience with them. Under "Applications" you'll see boatbuilders Cutts & Case and TPI using them.
Rick
lakepepinmollyblue <barryhill@...> wrote:
Go here;
http://www.raptornails.com/english/msds.html
Looks good, however I don't know anyone who has experience with them. Under "Applications" you'll see boatbuilders Cutts & Case and TPI using them.
Rick
lakepepinmollyblue <barryhill@...> wrote:
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@...> wrote:
>
> I have heard mentioned that there were staples available in either
> bronze or monel but have never located a source for them. Does
> anyone have any ideas for sources to try?
>
A Google search for "monel staple" turned up several suppliers in
the Arrow T-50 size. There are electric guns that drive these. Years
ago I ran into a North Shore canvas canoe builder that used these.
Air? I used an 18 ga. brad nailer building Shoebox but the brads are
galvanized.
When I got plans for Oldshoe Nels mused that Superbrick might be
next. At that time I wasn't aware of the challenge. Ran across it
recently and looked more closely at the boat. VERY interesting.
Would replace the junk travel trailer nicely and float to boot. IF
trailer problem was worked out. A trailer with little wheels would
be OK for the short haul to the landing but long distance highway is
another kettle of fish. The ol' trucker in me wants to go down the
Interstate all day without burning bearings and losing wheels.
Anyway I'm committed to building Oldshoe so no competition for the
challenge.
Bob
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@...> wrote:
the Arrow T-50 size. There are electric guns that drive these. Years
ago I ran into a North Shore canvas canoe builder that used these.
Air? I used an 18 ga. brad nailer building Shoebox but the brads are
galvanized.
When I got plans for Oldshoe Nels mused that Superbrick might be
next. At that time I wasn't aware of the challenge. Ran across it
recently and looked more closely at the boat. VERY interesting.
Would replace the junk travel trailer nicely and float to boot. IF
trailer problem was worked out. A trailer with little wheels would
be OK for the short haul to the landing but long distance highway is
another kettle of fish. The ol' trucker in me wants to go down the
Interstate all day without burning bearings and losing wheels.
Anyway I'm committed to building Oldshoe so no competition for the
challenge.
Bob
>A Google search for "monel staple" turned up several suppliers in
> I have heard mentioned that there were staples available in either
> bronze or monel but have never located a source for them. Does
> anyone have any ideas for sources to try?
>
the Arrow T-50 size. There are electric guns that drive these. Years
ago I ran into a North Shore canvas canoe builder that used these.
Air? I used an 18 ga. brad nailer building Shoebox but the brads are
galvanized.
When I got plans for Oldshoe Nels mused that Superbrick might be
next. At that time I wasn't aware of the challenge. Ran across it
recently and looked more closely at the boat. VERY interesting.
Would replace the junk travel trailer nicely and float to boot. IF
trailer problem was worked out. A trailer with little wheels would
be OK for the short haul to the landing but long distance highway is
another kettle of fish. The ol' trucker in me wants to go down the
Interstate all day without burning bearings and losing wheels.
Anyway I'm committed to building Oldshoe so no competition for the
challenge.
Bob
I don't think I'd be happy with the air stapler -- my absolute favorite
part of boat building is holding an iron on the inside and hammering in
nails. (Next best part is planing bevels and taking off 4 or 5 foot long
shavings.)
Patrick
Harry James wrote:
part of boat building is holding an iron on the inside and hammering in
nails. (Next best part is planing bevels and taking off 4 or 5 foot long
shavings.)
Patrick
Harry James wrote:
> I used a stapler and 3/4 " stainless to build an Elegant Punt. Worked
> great.
>
> HJ
>
> Bruce Hallman wrote:
>
>>> Work a bit everyday. I run a ministorage and work on boat projects when not busy, which means I have lots of time to work
>>>
>>> Paul
>>>
>>>
>> I have thought through the process of building a Superbrick quite a
>> bit!, including having built a model.
>>
>> Unsolicited advice, I recommend that you splurge (if needed) to get an
>> air compressor so you can use a narrow crown air stapler, which can be
>> incredibly useful holding things together, especially the 3/4 x 1 1/2"
>> nailer edgings, while glue sets. I also would consider using some
>> (maybe special order) paint grade MDO plywood because you can avoid a
>> giant amount of glassing and sanding. You could use it many places,
>> especially inside.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
I have heard mentioned that there were staples available in either
bronze or monel but have never located a source for them. Does
anyone have any ideas for sources to try?
Paul
bronze or monel but have never located a source for them. Does
anyone have any ideas for sources to try?
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> I used a stapler and 3/4 " stainless to build an Elegant Punt.
Worked
> great.
>
> HJ
>
> Bruce Hallman wrote:
> >> Work a bit everyday. I run a ministorage and work on boat
projects when not busy, which means I have lots of time to work
> >>
> >> Paul
> >>
> >
> > I have thought through the process of building a Superbrick
quite a
> > bit!, including having built a model.
> >
> > Unsolicited advice, I recommend that you splurge (if needed) to
get an
> > air compressor so you can use a narrow crown air stapler, which
can be
> > incredibly useful holding things together, especially the 3/4 x
1 1/2"
> > nailer edgings, while glue sets. I also would consider using
some
> > (maybe special order) paint grade MDO plywood because you can
avoid a
> > giant amount of glassing and sanding. You could use it many
places,
> > especially inside.
> >
> >
>
I'm in Lilburn so its not too far.
I haven't fully decided but I am leaning against fiberglassing,
going instead for just epoxy encapsulation and perhaps some glass
tape on various seams.
My rollover plan, when I get to that point, will be helped by access
to a pair of forklifts to handle the heavy lifting so fewer folks
will be needed to perform the task. Most of the rest will be
helping to guide things along so it should be a lot less strenuous
than I have seen others go through.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John Bell (smallboatdesigner)"
<smallboatdesigner@...> wrote:
I haven't fully decided but I am leaning against fiberglassing,
going instead for just epoxy encapsulation and perhaps some glass
tape on various seams.
My rollover plan, when I get to that point, will be helped by access
to a pair of forklifts to handle the heavy lifting so fewer folks
will be needed to perform the task. Most of the rest will be
helping to guide things along so it should be a lot less strenuous
than I have seen others go through.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John Bell (smallboatdesigner)"
<smallboatdesigner@...> wrote:
>know
> Paul wrote:
> > Certainly a day of sanding is worth a preview. I will let you
> > when I get to that point.you
> >
> > Paul
> >
>
> I'm probably less than an hour away. Be sure to give me a call if
> need help along the way with turning or some other heavy liftingtask.
> I'm also a pretty fiberglasser if you go that route.
>
> I'm in the phone book.
>
> John Bell
> Kennesaw, GA
>
Paul wrote:
need help along the way with turning or some other heavy lifting task.
I'm also a pretty fiberglasser if you go that route.
I'm in the phone book.
John Bell
Kennesaw, GA
> Certainly a day of sanding is worth a preview. I will let you knowI'm probably less than an hour away. Be sure to give me a call if you
> when I get to that point.
>
> Paul
>
need help along the way with turning or some other heavy lifting task.
I'm also a pretty fiberglasser if you go that route.
I'm in the phone book.
John Bell
Kennesaw, GA
I used a stapler and 3/4 " stainless to build an Elegant Punt. Worked
great.
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
great.
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
>> Work a bit everyday. I run a ministorage and work on boat projects when not busy, which means I have lots of time to work
>>
>> Paul
>>
>
> I have thought through the process of building a Superbrick quite a
> bit!, including having built a model.
>
> Unsolicited advice, I recommend that you splurge (if needed) to get an
> air compressor so you can use a narrow crown air stapler, which can be
> incredibly useful holding things together, especially the 3/4 x 1 1/2"
> nailer edgings, while glue sets. I also would consider using some
> (maybe special order) paint grade MDO plywood because you can avoid a
> giant amount of glassing and sanding. You could use it many places,
> especially inside.
>
>
Hi
A boatbuilder I know has commented that Bolger is a master drafter and I agree. Not all can be taken in at once but plans become very clear over the time of building. His study plans in his books are an indication. But, I am a fan.
Mike
A boatbuilder I know has commented that Bolger is a master drafter and I agree. Not all can be taken in at once but plans become very clear over the time of building. His study plans in his books are an indication. But, I am a fan.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Kenneth Grome
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2006 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: superbrick challenge
Paul,
What do you think of the plans? Are they well done? Are they complete? Have you found many mistakes yet?
I've considered building this boat for a long time, but I've never bought any Bolger plans yet, so I'm kind of wondering if Bolder plans are well done -- especially the plans for this particular boat.
Sincerely,
Kenneth Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
http://xbb.incebu.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I am a collector of boat plans as well as builder - collecting being
a result of finding the right boat to build as well as looking
towards future projects. I found the Bolger plans complete and the
type written instructions fairly complete. Of course as I get into
building it will be easier to assess. The plan sheets are a smaller
size than some but very clear and easy to read and understand.
I have plans also for Rondo II, bought from another group member,
and found the same level of detail and thoroughness to the
instructions.
The construction being of the 'instant boat' type there seems to be
more than enough detail to both the drawings and instructions to
complete the boat with little problems.
As to their comparison to other plans from other designers, I would
rate them fairly high.
Incidentally, I find the page size useful. Some of the really
oversized ones require an oversized table or wall mounting while
these fit well on a small drafting table that I keep in the
workshop, taking up little workspace but handy when needed.
I have completed a tortoise and am putting the finishing touches on
a brick (father and son dinghies for my 12 yo son and I) so I find
the side panel layout quite familiar. In many ways, the lower hull
for superbrick is just a larger version of these.
Since they both require melting lead ballast, I will begin with the
bilge board and rudder. With the help of a friendly local tire
store I have gathered a large amount of used wheel weights to melt
down.
Working from the plans it has been quite easy to begin setting a
building schedule for myself to allow me to build smoothly and buy
bits and pieces as needed.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...>
wrote:
plans are well done -- especially the plans for this particular boat.
a result of finding the right boat to build as well as looking
towards future projects. I found the Bolger plans complete and the
type written instructions fairly complete. Of course as I get into
building it will be easier to assess. The plan sheets are a smaller
size than some but very clear and easy to read and understand.
I have plans also for Rondo II, bought from another group member,
and found the same level of detail and thoroughness to the
instructions.
The construction being of the 'instant boat' type there seems to be
more than enough detail to both the drawings and instructions to
complete the boat with little problems.
As to their comparison to other plans from other designers, I would
rate them fairly high.
Incidentally, I find the page size useful. Some of the really
oversized ones require an oversized table or wall mounting while
these fit well on a small drafting table that I keep in the
workshop, taking up little workspace but handy when needed.
I have completed a tortoise and am putting the finishing touches on
a brick (father and son dinghies for my 12 yo son and I) so I find
the side panel layout quite familiar. In many ways, the lower hull
for superbrick is just a larger version of these.
Since they both require melting lead ballast, I will begin with the
bilge board and rudder. With the help of a friendly local tire
store I have gathered a large amount of used wheel weights to melt
down.
Working from the plans it has been quite easy to begin setting a
building schedule for myself to allow me to build smoothly and buy
bits and pieces as needed.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...>
wrote:
>complete? Have you found many mistakes yet?
> Paul,
>
> What do you think of the plans? Are they well done? Are they
>bought any Bolger plans yet, so I'm kind of wondering if Bolder
> I've considered building this boat for a long time, but I've never
plans are well done -- especially the plans for this particular boat.
>
> Sincerely,
> Kenneth Grome
>
> Bagacay Boatworks
>http://xbb.incebu.com
>
Paul,
What do you think of the plans? Are they well done? Are they complete? Have you found many mistakes yet?
I've considered building this boat for a long time, but I've never bought any Bolger plans yet, so I'm kind of wondering if Bolder plans are well done -- especially the plans for this particular boat.
Sincerely,
Kenneth Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
http://xbb.incebu.com
What do you think of the plans? Are they well done? Are they complete? Have you found many mistakes yet?
I've considered building this boat for a long time, but I've never bought any Bolger plans yet, so I'm kind of wondering if Bolder plans are well done -- especially the plans for this particular boat.
Sincerely,
Kenneth Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
http://xbb.incebu.com
cool, I'm glad to see there is still some support out there for this
unique boat.
Paul
unique boat.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, David Ryan <david@...> wrote:
>
> I don't remember how much money I put up, but I'm still go for it.
>
I have a very well equipped wood shop including both the compressor and
stapler. The MDO is a good suggestion, I have seem people mention it
with regard to some other boat projects but have never used it. It
does seem like a good option though for interior surfaces.
Paul
stapler. The MDO is a good suggestion, I have seem people mention it
with regard to some other boat projects but have never used it. It
does seem like a good option though for interior surfaces.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> > Work a bit everyday. I run a ministorage and work on boat
projects when not busy, which means I have lots of time to work
> >
> > Paul
>
> I have thought through the process of building a Superbrick quite a
> bit!, including having built a model.
>
> Unsolicited advice, I recommend that you splurge (if needed) to get an
> air compressor so you can use a narrow crown air stapler, which can be
> incredibly useful holding things together, especially the 3/4 x 1 1/2"
> nailer edgings, while glue sets. I also would consider using some
> (maybe special order) paint grade MDO plywood because you can avoid a
> giant amount of glassing and sanding. You could use it many places,
> especially inside.
>
I don't remember how much money I put up, but I'm still go for it.
> Work a bit everyday. I run a ministorage and work on boat projects when not busy, which means I have lots of time to workI have thought through the process of building a Superbrick quite a
>
> Paul
bit!, including having built a model.
Unsolicited advice, I recommend that you splurge (if needed) to get an
air compressor so you can use a narrow crown air stapler, which can be
incredibly useful holding things together, especially the 3/4 x 1 1/2"
nailer edgings, while glue sets. I also would consider using some
(maybe special order) paint grade MDO plywood because you can avoid a
giant amount of glassing and sanding. You could use it many places,
especially inside.
---A 20 foot rick sounds excellent to me
I have a standard 8 footer I had no problem building.
I cant figure how to post some pics yet though
Where would i find the plans online for the 20 footer ?????In
bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Hardy" <p_hardy@...> wrote:
think this style suits the superbrick.
I have a standard 8 footer I had no problem building.
I cant figure how to post some pics yet though
Where would i find the plans online for the 20 footer ?????In
bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Hardy" <p_hardy@...> wrote:
>boatbuilder, wanting a reliable sound hull, not a piece of art. I
> definitely the 'looks good at 20 feet'. I am a practical
think this style suits the superbrick.
>make it more practical and livable while foregoing the gold plate.
> Home depot rather than BS1088. I put the money into things that
>projects when not busy, which means I have lots of time to work
> Work a bit everyday. I run a ministorage and work on boat
>know
> Paul
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bruce Hallman
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 10:37 AM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: superbrick challenge
>
>
> On 8/11/06, Paul <p_hardy@...> wrote:
> > Certainly a day of sanding is worth a preview. I will let you
> > when I get to that point.looks
> >
> > Paul
>
> I am curious what type of boatbuilder are you?
>
> The 'mirror finish, boats are a work of art' or 'good enough, it
> good at twenty feet' type.type.
> The 'top quality BS1088' or the 'Home Depot shop grade' plywood
> The 'one Saturday a month' or the 'five day a week with a hiredhand' type.
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
definitely the 'looks good at 20 feet'. I am a practical boatbuilder, wanting a reliable sound hull, not a piece of art. I think this style suits the superbrick.
Home depot rather than BS1088. I put the money into things that make it more practical and livable while foregoing the gold plate.
Work a bit everyday. I run a ministorage and work on boat projects when not busy, which means I have lots of time to work
Paul
Home depot rather than BS1088. I put the money into things that make it more practical and livable while foregoing the gold plate.
Work a bit everyday. I run a ministorage and work on boat projects when not busy, which means I have lots of time to work
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Hallman
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: superbrick challenge
On 8/11/06, Paul <p_hardy@...> wrote:
> Certainly a day of sanding is worth a preview. I will let you know
> when I get to that point.
>
> Paul
I am curious what type of boatbuilder are you?
The 'mirror finish, boats are a work of art' or 'good enough, it looks
good at twenty feet' type.
The 'top quality BS1088' or the 'Home Depot shop grade' plywood type.
The 'one Saturday a month' or the 'five day a week with a hired hand' type.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On 8/11/06, Paul <p_hardy@...> wrote:
The 'mirror finish, boats are a work of art' or 'good enough, it looks
good at twenty feet' type.
The 'top quality BS1088' or the 'Home Depot shop grade' plywood type.
The 'one Saturday a month' or the 'five day a week with a hired hand' type.
> Certainly a day of sanding is worth a preview. I will let you knowI am curious what type of boatbuilder are you?
> when I get to that point.
>
> Paul
The 'mirror finish, boats are a work of art' or 'good enough, it looks
good at twenty feet' type.
The 'top quality BS1088' or the 'Home Depot shop grade' plywood type.
The 'one Saturday a month' or the 'five day a week with a hired hand' type.
Certainly a day of sanding is worth a preview. I will let you know
when I get to that point.
Paul
when I get to that point.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "ravenouspi" <ravenous@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@> wrote:
> >
> > Is this challenge still alive? I recently bought the plans from
PB&F
> > and will begin construction soon. I am surprised that it still
hasn't
> > been built yet. It seems to fit well my needs for a lake boat
(I live
> > near Lake Lanier, near Atlanta) and is a truly unique vessel.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> My $20 pledge is still good.
> And I only live 4 hours away!
> I might have a Superbrick ride yet!
>
> Lake Lanier annual "SuperBrick Messabout" has a nice ring to it.
>
> Hurry up Paul, I'll pledge a day of sanding for a sneak preview!
>
> Rhett Davis
> Georgia Coast
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@...> wrote:
And I only live 4 hours away!
I might have a Superbrick ride yet!
Lake Lanier annual "SuperBrick Messabout" has a nice ring to it.
Hurry up Paul, I'll pledge a day of sanding for a sneak preview!
Rhett Davis
Georgia Coast
>My $20 pledge is still good.
> Is this challenge still alive? I recently bought the plans from PB&F
> and will begin construction soon. I am surprised that it still hasn't
> been built yet. It seems to fit well my needs for a lake boat (I live
> near Lake Lanier, near Atlanta) and is a truly unique vessel.
>
> Paul
>
And I only live 4 hours away!
I might have a Superbrick ride yet!
Lake Lanier annual "SuperBrick Messabout" has a nice ring to it.
Hurry up Paul, I'll pledge a day of sanding for a sneak preview!
Rhett Davis
Georgia Coast
As a semi-professional videographer, I plan to fully document the
construction.
Paul
construction.
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> > Is this challenge still alive? I recently bought the plans from
PB&F
> > and will begin construction soon. I am surprised that it still
hasn't
> > been built yet. It seems to fit well my needs for a lake boat
(I live
> > near Lake Lanier, near Atlanta) and is a truly unique vessel.
> >
> > Paul
>
> My $100 pledge is still good. And, I (we) will be expecting a
complete
> photo blog of the construction!
>
> Is this challenge still alive? I recently bought the plans from PB&FMy $100 pledge is still good. And, I (we) will be expecting a complete
> and will begin construction soon. I am surprised that it still hasn't
> been built yet. It seems to fit well my needs for a lake boat (I live
> near Lake Lanier, near Atlanta) and is a truly unique vessel.
>
> Paul
photo blog of the construction!
Is this challenge still alive? I recently bought the plans from PB&F
and will begin construction soon. I am surprised that it still hasn't
been built yet. It seems to fit well my needs for a lake boat (I live
near Lake Lanier, near Atlanta) and is a truly unique vessel.
Paul
and will begin construction soon. I am surprised that it still hasn't
been built yet. It seems to fit well my needs for a lake boat (I live
near Lake Lanier, near Atlanta) and is a truly unique vessel.
Paul