Re: [bolger] Re: sailing lug rigged
Sorry to take so long to respond -- I'd filed away the information
pretty deep. I had my sail made by Brent Benson (Benson Sails), who
mainly makes (made) Lightning sails, I believe. His e-mail was
bwb1@.... I don't know if that's current, though -- this was 10
years ago. He was in Coopersburg, PA, USA.
Patrick
Nels wrote:
pretty deep. I had my sail made by Brent Benson (Benson Sails), who
mainly makes (made) Lightning sails, I believe. His e-mail was
bwb1@.... I don't know if that's current, though -- this was 10
years ago. He was in Coopersburg, PA, USA.
Patrick
Nels wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@...> wrote:
>
>> Steven:
>>
>>
> I
> have a fully battened sail, and I think the battens mitigate some of the
> sail distortion as it presses up against the mast. Without the battens,
> the sail may draw better on the other tack.
>
> Hi Patrick,
>
> Great photos! Really shows the shape, and power of that sail. Where
> did you get it made?
>
> Nels
>
>
>
>
>
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I like pivoting leeboads or a pivoting keel if your using your boat
for cruising. You can usually get enough board down to beat to some
degree into a shallow gunk hole or beat your way out. Seems to me you
have to get a lot more board down with a dagger board and hitting
bottom can damage your boat with no give in the daggerboard. The lee
board orswing centerboard makes an nice break when v comming up to a
dock in shallow water as well. Especilly for a larger boat where
momentum can do damage if you hit the dock.
I have been thinking about builge keels. I guess that's the right
name . I'm talking about the keels or wings that come off the side of
the boat. these would seem to be good with leeboards to hold the board
off the boat, make it ridged and also add to her windward ability.
Doug
GarthAB wrote:
for cruising. You can usually get enough board down to beat to some
degree into a shallow gunk hole or beat your way out. Seems to me you
have to get a lot more board down with a dagger board and hitting
bottom can damage your boat with no give in the daggerboard. The lee
board orswing centerboard makes an nice break when v comming up to a
dock in shallow water as well. Especilly for a larger boat where
momentum can do damage if you hit the dock.
I have been thinking about builge keels. I guess that's the right
name . I'm talking about the keels or wings that come off the side of
the boat. these would seem to be good with leeboards to hold the board
off the boat, make it ridged and also add to her windward ability.
Doug
GarthAB wrote:
>
> I built a Windsprint many years ago as my first boat. If I had it to
> do all over again, I'd skip that off-center daggerboard and put on a
> Michalak-style pivoting leeboard. Even more room in the cockpit, plus
> all the ease of running straight up on a beach (or over a submerged
> object) without the crunch-thud-stop of a daggerboard.
>
> Garth
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com<mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>,
> Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@...> wrote:
> >
> > Steve:
> >
> > On the daggerboard:
> >
> > I mentioned before that I have not seen any particular difference
> due to
> > the daggerboard being on one side rather than in the middle or on both
> > sides. There are two major advantages to having it on the side:
> >
> > 1. More interior space, less shin-banging on tacks. The Windsprint
> > bottom is just big enough to pitch a 1-person backpacking tent or
> > mosquito net (like the REI Bug Hut II) and sleep aboard. That would be
> > lost with a dagger board trunk in the center. Also, lounging about in
> > the boat while underway is considerably more comfortable with the
> > off-set board.
> >
> > 2. It is structurally simpler. With a center daggerboard, you need a
> > thwart or other bracing to keep the top of the trunk rigid. (Note,
> > however, that, as drawn, the trunk may not be strong enough -- when I
> > sailed with a rambunctious teen-aged nephew, he sat on the trunk to
> hike
> > and wound up cracking it away from the side of the boat. The fix was to
> > epoxy fiberglass tape into the joints with the side of the boat.)
> >
> > One major disadvantage of a daggerboard (as opposed to a pivoting
> > centerboard, which would have to be moved farther inboard) is that when
> > you run aground it is a bigger hassle to get the board up to sail off.
> > An issue for me in the shallow North Carolina sounds.
> >
> > Patrick
> >
>
>
I built a Windsprint many years ago as my first boat. If I had it to
do all over again, I'd skip that off-center daggerboard and put on a
Michalak-style pivoting leeboard. Even more room in the cockpit, plus
all the ease of running straight up on a beach (or over a submerged
object) without the crunch-thud-stop of a daggerboard.
Garth
do all over again, I'd skip that off-center daggerboard and put on a
Michalak-style pivoting leeboard. Even more room in the cockpit, plus
all the ease of running straight up on a beach (or over a submerged
object) without the crunch-thud-stop of a daggerboard.
Garth
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@...> wrote:
>
> Steve:
>
> On the daggerboard:
>
> I mentioned before that I have not seen any particular difference
due to
> the daggerboard being on one side rather than in the middle or on both
> sides. There are two major advantages to having it on the side:
>
> 1. More interior space, less shin-banging on tacks. The Windsprint
> bottom is just big enough to pitch a 1-person backpacking tent or
> mosquito net (like the REI Bug Hut II) and sleep aboard. That would be
> lost with a dagger board trunk in the center. Also, lounging about in
> the boat while underway is considerably more comfortable with the
> off-set board.
>
> 2. It is structurally simpler. With a center daggerboard, you need a
> thwart or other bracing to keep the top of the trunk rigid. (Note,
> however, that, as drawn, the trunk may not be strong enough -- when I
> sailed with a rambunctious teen-aged nephew, he sat on the trunk to
hike
> and wound up cracking it away from the side of the boat. The fix was to
> epoxy fiberglass tape into the joints with the side of the boat.)
>
> One major disadvantage of a daggerboard (as opposed to a pivoting
> centerboard, which would have to be moved farther inboard) is that when
> you run aground it is a bigger hassle to get the board up to sail off.
> An issue for me in the shallow North Carolina sounds.
>
> Patrick
>
Steve:
On the daggerboard:
I mentioned before that I have not seen any particular difference due to
the daggerboard being on one side rather than in the middle or on both
sides. There are two major advantages to having it on the side:
1. More interior space, less shin-banging on tacks. The Windsprint
bottom is just big enough to pitch a 1-person backpacking tent or
mosquito net (like the REI Bug Hut II) and sleep aboard. That would be
lost with a dagger board trunk in the center. Also, lounging about in
the boat while underway is considerably more comfortable with the
off-set board.
2. It is structurally simpler. With a center daggerboard, you need a
thwart or other bracing to keep the top of the trunk rigid. (Note,
however, that, as drawn, the trunk may not be strong enough -- when I
sailed with a rambunctious teen-aged nephew, he sat on the trunk to hike
and wound up cracking it away from the side of the boat. The fix was to
epoxy fiberglass tape into the joints with the side of the boat.)
One major disadvantage of a daggerboard (as opposed to a pivoting
centerboard, which would have to be moved farther inboard) is that when
you run aground it is a bigger hassle to get the board up to sail off.
An issue for me in the shallow North Carolina sounds.
Patrick
On the daggerboard:
I mentioned before that I have not seen any particular difference due to
the daggerboard being on one side rather than in the middle or on both
sides. There are two major advantages to having it on the side:
1. More interior space, less shin-banging on tacks. The Windsprint
bottom is just big enough to pitch a 1-person backpacking tent or
mosquito net (like the REI Bug Hut II) and sleep aboard. That would be
lost with a dagger board trunk in the center. Also, lounging about in
the boat while underway is considerably more comfortable with the
off-set board.
2. It is structurally simpler. With a center daggerboard, you need a
thwart or other bracing to keep the top of the trunk rigid. (Note,
however, that, as drawn, the trunk may not be strong enough -- when I
sailed with a rambunctious teen-aged nephew, he sat on the trunk to hike
and wound up cracking it away from the side of the boat. The fix was to
epoxy fiberglass tape into the joints with the side of the boat.)
One major disadvantage of a daggerboard (as opposed to a pivoting
centerboard, which would have to be moved farther inboard) is that when
you run aground it is a bigger hassle to get the board up to sail off.
An issue for me in the shallow North Carolina sounds.
Patrick
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Carl" <shnarg@...> wrote:
a screwed up boat can kill someone.
Also some builders make changes without conferring with the designer
and then blame the designer if it does not perform up to expectations.
Then complain to others about how bad the design is.
I think that rightly so, this can really upset the designer and
perhaps damage their reputations unreasonably. Bolger states over and
over that it is not a problem if people make changes. Just let him
know and don't refer to it as a Bolger design any longer.
Nels
>makers and boat designers. A screwed up violin produces a sour note,
> I can sugest a reason for the difference in responses from violin
a screwed up boat can kill someone.
Also some builders make changes without conferring with the designer
and then blame the designer if it does not perform up to expectations.
Then complain to others about how bad the design is.
I think that rightly so, this can really upset the designer and
perhaps damage their reputations unreasonably. Bolger states over and
over that it is not a problem if people make changes. Just let him
know and don't refer to it as a Bolger design any longer.
Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Steven DAntonio" <sdantonio93@...> wrote:
Sorry I did not realize that post was already in answer to your
question! I felt it would be of use to members on this group as well,
who may be contemplating a Windsprint.
Personally I don't like daggerboards as I had one boat with one and it
leaked after awhile from hitting the bottom a few times and was almost
impossible to repair. So I wrote to Dynamite one time asking him about
using simple pivoting leeboards on a Windprint or Surf - similar to
what canoes use. He felt it probably would work - but not as good as a
daggerboard. Actually I think he said, "Should work." - Dyamite is a
man of few words:-)
Now I would consider the single leeboard design that Michalak uses.
Basically an off-set daggerboard on a pivot. No well or leaks to be
concerned about. It is used on a lot of his designs up to the 32'
Cormorant which the builder/owner loves.
Nels
>Hi Steven,
> Hi Nels,
>
> That note from Welsford was addressed to me.
Sorry I did not realize that post was already in answer to your
question! I felt it would be of use to members on this group as well,
who may be contemplating a Windsprint.
Personally I don't like daggerboards as I had one boat with one and it
leaked after awhile from hitting the bottom a few times and was almost
impossible to repair. So I wrote to Dynamite one time asking him about
using simple pivoting leeboards on a Windprint or Surf - similar to
what canoes use. He felt it probably would work - but not as good as a
daggerboard. Actually I think he said, "Should work." - Dyamite is a
man of few words:-)
Now I would consider the single leeboard design that Michalak uses.
Basically an off-set daggerboard on a pivot. No well or leaks to be
concerned about. It is used on a lot of his designs up to the 32'
Cormorant which the builder/owner loves.
Nels
I can sugest a reason for the difference in responses from violin makers and boat designers. A screwed up violin produces a sour note, a screwed up boat can kill someone.
----- Original Message -----
From: Steven DAntonio
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 8:17 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: sailing lug rigged
Hi Nels,
That note from Welsford was addressed to me. I asked the simple
question of "would there be any advantage to moving the daggerboard to
the center or using 2 daggerboards, one on each side", which I believe
is done in the folding schooner if I am reading the study plans right.
And he probably won't like the tone of my reply.
Lets not even address this here since the replies to the question
range from "try it and let us know" to downright hostile. I thought
welsford, with his comment of "if you think that in your wisdom you
need to change his work because you think you know better," was a bit
testy. I never said or implied I knew better, I was simply asking a
question. Personally, instead of saying PCB is a designer of great
skill, I would tend to use words like brilliant. But I tend to
overpraise people I have great respect for.
In 25 years of violin making I have had my designes stolen, borrowed,
redesigned and questioned, and I have used many other peoples designes
too (yeah, in this case they are mostly dead by about 400 years). If
I have learned nothing else in all that time with violins, I have
learned one important thing. If something looks out of the ordinary
then ask someone who knows more than you do about it. The dumbest
thing you can do is build and then find out later you misinterpreted
or misread a plan or there was a better way to do it that has not been
updated in the plans (actually in at least one place HH Payton
basically says the same thing about asking regarding
misinterpretations people have written him about).
For some reason boat designers seem to be a bit more sensative about
this than musical instrument perople. I don't know why.
So I'm going to leave the daggerboard issue alone, it seems to have
caused to much of a stir already.
Regarding my other question in the other forum of double skinning the
hull bottom to give a total thickness of 1/2 inch and to stagger the
joints I got the same mixed reaction. Some builders and designers
said they double skin the bottom as a standard practice and also
suggested that it would add some needed balast for the windsprint.
Others seemed a bit upset that I would even ask. The daggerboard I
will leave where it is, whether I double skin the hull bottom is
between me and Poseidon. Wesford says he has no problem with the 1/4
inch thickness... he is also lighter than I am.
I do need to pick up PCB's book of rigs.
I'm not looking to race, just looking for fun and enjoyment. This is
also my practice boat before I build either a folding schooner of a
kavalier 800http://www.boatdesign.net/nyd/K800/(havent decided
which yet... may be both).
Steven
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Steven DAntonio" <sdantonio93@>
> wrote:
> > "Tacking involves moving the forward tip of the spar and the attached
> > sail behind the mast to the other side."
> >
> Hi Steven,
>
> I believe that mostly applies to the dipping lug, unless you are only
> tacking once in awhile and want to keep the best sail shape on each
> tack. See illustration at the top of this link:
>
>http://www.instantboats.com/windsprint.htm
>
> In short tacking manouvers the sail is not touched and performance on
> one tack will be slightly better than on the other.
>
> However there is another factor involved with Windsprint performance
> in that the daggerboard is off-set to one side which results in less
> leeway on one tack than the other.
>
> So if one sets up the sail so that the best shape is on the tack that
> has the daggerboard at a disadvantge depthwise, then the difference on
> each tack becomes hardly noticeable.
>
> Here is a recent post from noted boat designer, John Welsford on
> another forum:
>
> "I've experimented a lot with offcenterboards, and have sailed a
> Windsprint quite a bit. The rig as designed is slightly better on one
> tack than the other, and if you rig the boat with the rig to advantage
> when the daggerboard is on the less advantaged side (when its up on
> the high side)you wil find that when the rig is on the disadvantaged
> tack and the 'board is on the advantaged side that the difference in
> performance between one tack and the other is so slight as to be hard
> to detect.
>
> Bolger is a designer of great skill and immense experience, if you
> think that in your wisdom you need to change his work because you
> think you know better, go for it."
>
> Bolger states, "In gentle winds and smooth water, this rig is a good
> one for the lazy; light to sheet, and self-trimming from tack to tack,
> needing no adjustment to make it hold a good shape on all points of
> sailing. It can be jibed all standing without much hazard." ... from
> Rig 17 of his book, "100 Small Boat Rigs."
>
> Therefor if you are looking for racing level performance it probably
> could be somewhat disappointing. Broad reaching it outperforms some
> fancier rigs:-)
>
> Nels
>
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Hi Nels,
That note from Welsford was addressed to me. I asked the simple
question of "would there be any advantage to moving the daggerboard to
the center or using 2 daggerboards, one on each side", which I believe
is done in the folding schooner if I am reading the study plans right.
And he probably won't like the tone of my reply.
Lets not even address this here since the replies to the question
range from "try it and let us know" to downright hostile. I thought
welsford, with his comment of "if you think that in your wisdom you
need to change his work because you think you know better," was a bit
testy. I never said or implied I knew better, I was simply asking a
question. Personally, instead of saying PCB is a designer of great
skill, I would tend to use words like brilliant. But I tend to
overpraise people I have great respect for.
In 25 years of violin making I have had my designes stolen, borrowed,
redesigned and questioned, and I have used many other peoples designes
too (yeah, in this case they are mostly dead by about 400 years). If
I have learned nothing else in all that time with violins, I have
learned one important thing. If something looks out of the ordinary
then ask someone who knows more than you do about it. The dumbest
thing you can do is build and then find out later you misinterpreted
or misread a plan or there was a better way to do it that has not been
updated in the plans (actually in at least one place HH Payton
basically says the same thing about asking regarding
misinterpretations people have written him about).
For some reason boat designers seem to be a bit more sensative about
this than musical instrument perople. I don't know why.
So I'm going to leave the daggerboard issue alone, it seems to have
caused to much of a stir already.
Regarding my other question in the other forum of double skinning the
hull bottom to give a total thickness of 1/2 inch and to stagger the
joints I got the same mixed reaction. Some builders and designers
said they double skin the bottom as a standard practice and also
suggested that it would add some needed balast for the windsprint.
Others seemed a bit upset that I would even ask. The daggerboard I
will leave where it is, whether I double skin the hull bottom is
between me and Poseidon. Wesford says he has no problem with the 1/4
inch thickness... he is also lighter than I am.
I do need to pick up PCB's book of rigs.
I'm not looking to race, just looking for fun and enjoyment. This is
also my practice boat before I build either a folding schooner of a
kavalier 800http://www.boatdesign.net/nyd/K800/(havent decided
which yet... may be both).
Steven
That note from Welsford was addressed to me. I asked the simple
question of "would there be any advantage to moving the daggerboard to
the center or using 2 daggerboards, one on each side", which I believe
is done in the folding schooner if I am reading the study plans right.
And he probably won't like the tone of my reply.
Lets not even address this here since the replies to the question
range from "try it and let us know" to downright hostile. I thought
welsford, with his comment of "if you think that in your wisdom you
need to change his work because you think you know better," was a bit
testy. I never said or implied I knew better, I was simply asking a
question. Personally, instead of saying PCB is a designer of great
skill, I would tend to use words like brilliant. But I tend to
overpraise people I have great respect for.
In 25 years of violin making I have had my designes stolen, borrowed,
redesigned and questioned, and I have used many other peoples designes
too (yeah, in this case they are mostly dead by about 400 years). If
I have learned nothing else in all that time with violins, I have
learned one important thing. If something looks out of the ordinary
then ask someone who knows more than you do about it. The dumbest
thing you can do is build and then find out later you misinterpreted
or misread a plan or there was a better way to do it that has not been
updated in the plans (actually in at least one place HH Payton
basically says the same thing about asking regarding
misinterpretations people have written him about).
For some reason boat designers seem to be a bit more sensative about
this than musical instrument perople. I don't know why.
So I'm going to leave the daggerboard issue alone, it seems to have
caused to much of a stir already.
Regarding my other question in the other forum of double skinning the
hull bottom to give a total thickness of 1/2 inch and to stagger the
joints I got the same mixed reaction. Some builders and designers
said they double skin the bottom as a standard practice and also
suggested that it would add some needed balast for the windsprint.
Others seemed a bit upset that I would even ask. The daggerboard I
will leave where it is, whether I double skin the hull bottom is
between me and Poseidon. Wesford says he has no problem with the 1/4
inch thickness... he is also lighter than I am.
I do need to pick up PCB's book of rigs.
I'm not looking to race, just looking for fun and enjoyment. This is
also my practice boat before I build either a folding schooner of a
kavalier 800http://www.boatdesign.net/nyd/K800/(havent decided
which yet... may be both).
Steven
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Steven DAntonio" <sdantonio93@>
> wrote:
> > "Tacking involves moving the forward tip of the spar and the attached
> > sail behind the mast to the other side."
> >
> Hi Steven,
>
> I believe that mostly applies to the dipping lug, unless you are only
> tacking once in awhile and want to keep the best sail shape on each
> tack. See illustration at the top of this link:
>
>http://www.instantboats.com/windsprint.htm
>
> In short tacking manouvers the sail is not touched and performance on
> one tack will be slightly better than on the other.
>
> However there is another factor involved with Windsprint performance
> in that the daggerboard is off-set to one side which results in less
> leeway on one tack than the other.
>
> So if one sets up the sail so that the best shape is on the tack that
> has the daggerboard at a disadvantge depthwise, then the difference on
> each tack becomes hardly noticeable.
>
> Here is a recent post from noted boat designer, John Welsford on
> another forum:
>
> "I've experimented a lot with offcenterboards, and have sailed a
> Windsprint quite a bit. The rig as designed is slightly better on one
> tack than the other, and if you rig the boat with the rig to advantage
> when the daggerboard is on the less advantaged side (when its up on
> the high side)you wil find that when the rig is on the disadvantaged
> tack and the 'board is on the advantaged side that the difference in
> performance between one tack and the other is so slight as to be hard
> to detect.
>
> Bolger is a designer of great skill and immense experience, if you
> think that in your wisdom you need to change his work because you
> think you know better, go for it."
>
> Bolger states, "In gentle winds and smooth water, this rig is a good
> one for the lazy; light to sheet, and self-trimming from tack to tack,
> needing no adjustment to make it hold a good shape on all points of
> sailing. It can be jibed all standing without much hazard." ... from
> Rig 17 of his book, "100 Small Boat Rigs."
>
> Therefor if you are looking for racing level performance it probably
> could be somewhat disappointing. Broad reaching it outperforms some
> fancier rigs:-)
>
> Nels
>
Hi Jeff,
Thanks, I found Jim's site about 10 minutes after I posted the
question following a link yesterday regarding trialering flat bottom
boats.
Looks like Jim's site is going to be a wealth of information for me.
Steven
Thanks, I found Jim's site about 10 minutes after I posted the
question following a link yesterday regarding trialering flat bottom
boats.
Looks like Jim's site is going to be a wealth of information for me.
Steven
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "bobffej" <bobffej@...> wrote:
>
> Steven,
>
> Check out this link at Jim Michalak's site that I found helpful:
>
>http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/2000/0615/index.htm#BALA
> NCED%20LUG%20JIFFY%20REEF
>
> The link probably wraps so copy and paste the whole thing into the
> address bar. Otherwise go to the alphabetical index.
>
> Windsprint's sailplan is a balanced lug sail. Moving the sail to
> the other side of the mast is not required when tacking. The
> difference in performance when the sail is pinned against the mast
> is marginal IMHO.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Steven DAntonio" <sdantonio93@>
> wrote:
> >
> > "Tacking involves moving the forward tip of the spar and the
> attached
> > sail behind the mast to the other side."
> >
> > Does this mean that to tack I have to somehow pull the sail back
> aft
> > so that the gaf and boom can be swung to the other side of the
> mast?
> > That would seem the only way I can think of to keep that nice
> airfoil
> > shape in the sheet without the mast causing it to colapse on one
> tack.
> > Is there some site anyone can recomend?
> > Or am I totally misinterpreting what I'm reading here and other
> places?
> >
> > Steven
> >
>
Chris:
We were last on Ocracoke a year ago. We'd planned to go back this year,
but the cottage we rented burned down last spring and we took that as a
sign that we should look elsewhere for our vacation this year.
Pat
Christopher Wetherill wrote:
We were last on Ocracoke a year ago. We'd planned to go back this year,
but the cottage we rented burned down last spring and we took that as a
sign that we should look elsewhere for our vacation this year.
Pat
Christopher Wetherill wrote:
> Patrick,
>
> I have looked at your pictures and received a new appreciation of your
> swamping concern. It looks like two adults put the gunwale low enough
> that a slight heel will bury the rail. I also see how much volume you
> have left out of the buoyancy blocks. As you mentioned earlier,
> building the foam up to the level of the gunwale and rigidly fastening
> it to the hull will greatly enhance its effectiveness.
>
> btw, very nice looking boat. When were you last on Silver Lake?
>
> V/R
> Chris
>
> Patrick Crockett wrote:
>
>> Steven:
>>
>> With a balanced lug rig (like the Windsprint) you tack and jibe just
>> like with a sloop rig -- just let the sail flop across. I find that my
>> sail draws better when on the "wrong" tack -- the mast makes a lump
>> which probably interrupts the airflow and foil properties, but it also
>> keeps the sail from having a large chord from top to bottom, and the
>> wind seems to like that. The off-set dagger board doesn't have any
>> noticeable effect. (I've raised the sail on both sides of the mast.) I
>> have a fully battened sail, and I think the battens mitigate some of the
>> sail distortion as it presses up against the mast. Without the battens,
>> the sail may draw better on the other tack.
>>
>> The wonderful bonus of a balanced lug is that when you jibe, it is
>> pretty much a non-event.
>>
>> Two things to watch out for: Running downwind, particularly if there
>> are any waves to speak of, be sure to keep crew weight well back.
>> Otherwise the waves will corkscrew you and you'll be full of water
>> before you even notice you are in a death roll. Also, the boom is
>> looong! Which means that if you are reaching, you have to be very
>> careful to keep the boat on its feet -- it doesn't take much heel to
>> drag the end of the boom in the water, and then you are in for a
>> magnificent slow-motion capsize that you can do nothing to prevent.
>>
>> The sail is huge -- I weigh 250 lbs and there is no way I an handle it
>> when the wind is above 10 knots. So be sure to have your sail maker put
>> in two reefs. With two experienced adults, you can handle fairly high
>> winds, but singlehanded, with a child, or with an inexperienced crew,
>> you will sail with reefed sail a lot. See some photos of my boat on my
>> website (http://home.nc.rr.com/pcrockett)and in the photos section of
>> Bolger6. I just noticed that most of my photos have the sail on the
>> pretty side of the mast -- the boat is more photogenic on that tack. I
>> just added a photo to Bolger6 with the sail on the other tack. Not much
>> wind, so you can just barely see how the sail bends across the mast.
>>
>> Patrick
>>
>> Steven DAntonio wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I am looking into building a Windspirit and have a question regarding
>>> sailing her when she is completed. I have 25 years as a violin maker,
>>> so I'm expecting with all that woodworking experience she will at
>>> least float when I'm finished (I hope).
>>>
>>> I'm used to sailing bermudan rig, you know, the triangular sails you
>>> see on the vast majority of small craft. But have been reading up on
>>> sailing lug rigged on the web and it seems the more I read the more
>>> confused I get.
>>>
>>> "Tacking involves moving the forward tip of the spar and the attached
>>> sail behind the mast to the other side."
>>>
>>> Does this mean that to tack I have to somehow pull the sail back aft
>>> so that the gaf and boom can be swung to the other side of the mast?
>>> That would seem the only way I can think of to keep that nice airfoil
>>> shape in the sheet without the mast causing it to colapse on one tack.
>>> Is there some site anyone can recomend with lots of pictures of this
>>> (video would be even better)? Do I just have to get on the water and
>>> do it a few times to get the idea (and I should probably expect to end
>>> up swimming a few times during the learning process)? Or am I totally
>>> misinterpreting what I'm reading here and other places?
>>>
>>> Steven
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bolger rules!!!
>>> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
>>> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
>>> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>>> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>>> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>>> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Bolger rules!!!
>> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
>> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
>> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Patrick,
I have looked at your pictures and received a new appreciation of your
swamping concern. It looks like two adults put the gunwale low enough
that a slight heel will bury the rail. I also see how much volume you
have left out of the buoyancy blocks. As you mentioned earlier,
building the foam up to the level of the gunwale and rigidly fastening
it to the hull will greatly enhance its effectiveness.
btw, very nice looking boat. When were you last on Silver Lake?
V/R
Chris
Patrick Crockett wrote:
I have looked at your pictures and received a new appreciation of your
swamping concern. It looks like two adults put the gunwale low enough
that a slight heel will bury the rail. I also see how much volume you
have left out of the buoyancy blocks. As you mentioned earlier,
building the foam up to the level of the gunwale and rigidly fastening
it to the hull will greatly enhance its effectiveness.
btw, very nice looking boat. When were you last on Silver Lake?
V/R
Chris
Patrick Crockett wrote:
> Steven:
>
> With a balanced lug rig (like the Windsprint) you tack and jibe just
> like with a sloop rig -- just let the sail flop across. I find that my
> sail draws better when on the "wrong" tack -- the mast makes a lump
> which probably interrupts the airflow and foil properties, but it also
> keeps the sail from having a large chord from top to bottom, and the
> wind seems to like that. The off-set dagger board doesn't have any
> noticeable effect. (I've raised the sail on both sides of the mast.) I
> have a fully battened sail, and I think the battens mitigate some of the
> sail distortion as it presses up against the mast. Without the battens,
> the sail may draw better on the other tack.
>
> The wonderful bonus of a balanced lug is that when you jibe, it is
> pretty much a non-event.
>
> Two things to watch out for: Running downwind, particularly if there
> are any waves to speak of, be sure to keep crew weight well back.
> Otherwise the waves will corkscrew you and you'll be full of water
> before you even notice you are in a death roll. Also, the boom is
> looong! Which means that if you are reaching, you have to be very
> careful to keep the boat on its feet -- it doesn't take much heel to
> drag the end of the boom in the water, and then you are in for a
> magnificent slow-motion capsize that you can do nothing to prevent.
>
> The sail is huge -- I weigh 250 lbs and there is no way I an handle it
> when the wind is above 10 knots. So be sure to have your sail maker put
> in two reefs. With two experienced adults, you can handle fairly high
> winds, but singlehanded, with a child, or with an inexperienced crew,
> you will sail with reefed sail a lot. See some photos of my boat on my
> website (http://home.nc.rr.com/pcrockett)and in the photos section of
> Bolger6. I just noticed that most of my photos have the sail on the
> pretty side of the mast -- the boat is more photogenic on that tack. I
> just added a photo to Bolger6 with the sail on the other tack. Not much
> wind, so you can just barely see how the sail bends across the mast.
>
> Patrick
>
> Steven DAntonio wrote:
>
>> I am looking into building a Windspirit and have a question regarding
>> sailing her when she is completed. I have 25 years as a violin maker,
>> so I'm expecting with all that woodworking experience she will at
>> least float when I'm finished (I hope).
>>
>> I'm used to sailing bermudan rig, you know, the triangular sails you
>> see on the vast majority of small craft. But have been reading up on
>> sailing lug rigged on the web and it seems the more I read the more
>> confused I get.
>>
>> "Tacking involves moving the forward tip of the spar and the attached
>> sail behind the mast to the other side."
>>
>> Does this mean that to tack I have to somehow pull the sail back aft
>> so that the gaf and boom can be swung to the other side of the mast?
>> That would seem the only way I can think of to keep that nice airfoil
>> shape in the sheet without the mast causing it to colapse on one tack.
>> Is there some site anyone can recomend with lots of pictures of this
>> (video would be even better)? Do I just have to get on the water and
>> do it a few times to get the idea (and I should probably expect to end
>> up swimming a few times during the learning process)? Or am I totally
>> misinterpreting what I'm reading here and other places?
>>
>> Steven
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bolger rules!!!
>> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
>> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
>> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@...> wrote:
have a fully battened sail, and I think the battens mitigate some of the
sail distortion as it presses up against the mast. Without the battens,
the sail may draw better on the other tack.
Hi Patrick,
Great photos! Really shows the shape, and power of that sail. Where
did you get it made?
Nels
>I
> Steven:
>
have a fully battened sail, and I think the battens mitigate some of the
sail distortion as it presses up against the mast. Without the battens,
the sail may draw better on the other tack.
Hi Patrick,
Great photos! Really shows the shape, and power of that sail. Where
did you get it made?
Nels
Steven:
With a balanced lug rig (like the Windsprint) you tack and jibe just
like with a sloop rig -- just let the sail flop across. I find that my
sail draws better when on the "wrong" tack -- the mast makes a lump
which probably interrupts the airflow and foil properties, but it also
keeps the sail from having a large chord from top to bottom, and the
wind seems to like that. The off-set dagger board doesn't have any
noticeable effect. (I've raised the sail on both sides of the mast.) I
have a fully battened sail, and I think the battens mitigate some of the
sail distortion as it presses up against the mast. Without the battens,
the sail may draw better on the other tack.
The wonderful bonus of a balanced lug is that when you jibe, it is
pretty much a non-event.
Two things to watch out for: Running downwind, particularly if there
are any waves to speak of, be sure to keep crew weight well back.
Otherwise the waves will corkscrew you and you'll be full of water
before you even notice you are in a death roll. Also, the boom is
looong! Which means that if you are reaching, you have to be very
careful to keep the boat on its feet -- it doesn't take much heel to
drag the end of the boom in the water, and then you are in for a
magnificent slow-motion capsize that you can do nothing to prevent.
The sail is huge -- I weigh 250 lbs and there is no way I an handle it
when the wind is above 10 knots. So be sure to have your sail maker put
in two reefs. With two experienced adults, you can handle fairly high
winds, but singlehanded, with a child, or with an inexperienced crew,
you will sail with reefed sail a lot. See some photos of my boat on my
website (http://home.nc.rr.com/pcrockett)and in the photos section of
Bolger6. I just noticed that most of my photos have the sail on the
pretty side of the mast -- the boat is more photogenic on that tack. I
just added a photo to Bolger6 with the sail on the other tack. Not much
wind, so you can just barely see how the sail bends across the mast.
Patrick
Steven DAntonio wrote:
With a balanced lug rig (like the Windsprint) you tack and jibe just
like with a sloop rig -- just let the sail flop across. I find that my
sail draws better when on the "wrong" tack -- the mast makes a lump
which probably interrupts the airflow and foil properties, but it also
keeps the sail from having a large chord from top to bottom, and the
wind seems to like that. The off-set dagger board doesn't have any
noticeable effect. (I've raised the sail on both sides of the mast.) I
have a fully battened sail, and I think the battens mitigate some of the
sail distortion as it presses up against the mast. Without the battens,
the sail may draw better on the other tack.
The wonderful bonus of a balanced lug is that when you jibe, it is
pretty much a non-event.
Two things to watch out for: Running downwind, particularly if there
are any waves to speak of, be sure to keep crew weight well back.
Otherwise the waves will corkscrew you and you'll be full of water
before you even notice you are in a death roll. Also, the boom is
looong! Which means that if you are reaching, you have to be very
careful to keep the boat on its feet -- it doesn't take much heel to
drag the end of the boom in the water, and then you are in for a
magnificent slow-motion capsize that you can do nothing to prevent.
The sail is huge -- I weigh 250 lbs and there is no way I an handle it
when the wind is above 10 knots. So be sure to have your sail maker put
in two reefs. With two experienced adults, you can handle fairly high
winds, but singlehanded, with a child, or with an inexperienced crew,
you will sail with reefed sail a lot. See some photos of my boat on my
website (http://home.nc.rr.com/pcrockett)and in the photos section of
Bolger6. I just noticed that most of my photos have the sail on the
pretty side of the mast -- the boat is more photogenic on that tack. I
just added a photo to Bolger6 with the sail on the other tack. Not much
wind, so you can just barely see how the sail bends across the mast.
Patrick
Steven DAntonio wrote:
> I am looking into building a Windspirit and have a question regarding
> sailing her when she is completed. I have 25 years as a violin maker,
> so I'm expecting with all that woodworking experience she will at
> least float when I'm finished (I hope).
>
> I'm used to sailing bermudan rig, you know, the triangular sails you
> see on the vast majority of small craft. But have been reading up on
> sailing lug rigged on the web and it seems the more I read the more
> confused I get.
>
> "Tacking involves moving the forward tip of the spar and the attached
> sail behind the mast to the other side."
>
> Does this mean that to tack I have to somehow pull the sail back aft
> so that the gaf and boom can be swung to the other side of the mast?
> That would seem the only way I can think of to keep that nice airfoil
> shape in the sheet without the mast causing it to colapse on one tack.
> Is there some site anyone can recomend with lots of pictures of this
> (video would be even better)? Do I just have to get on the water and
> do it a few times to get the idea (and I should probably expect to end
> up swimming a few times during the learning process)? Or am I totally
> misinterpreting what I'm reading here and other places?
>
> Steven
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Steven,
I believe that you are reading about a "dipping lug sail" and these were used on fishing boats in open water where frequent tacking was not a necessity.
Although PCB has used a dipping lug on a couple of boats (including his own), Windsprint uses a balanced lug sail and this sail stays on one side of the mast. As a result, on one tack, the sail blows against the mast and many people think this "spoils the set of the sail". It might, but I have two boats with balanced lug sails and I have never been able to identify any difference in performance between the "good" tack and the "bad" tack.
Balanced lugs have two peculiarities. When you lower the sail, the peak of the yard (top corner of the sail) comes down first and it comes down quickly! Suggest that you raise and lower the sail a couple of times before you get on the water to get the feel of this. Second, balanced lug sails perform best if you can keep the leading edge of the sail fairly tight. This is accomplished with a multi part down haul. Basically, this is a line which goes from the deck near the mast, over the boom (or a small block on the boom near the mast), down to a block on the deck, and then to a cleat. (I have an old Magic Box on my bigger boat. It's overkill, but I'm old and lazy.) You hoist the sail to the top of the mast, cleat the halyard, and then apply tension to the downhaul.
Balanced lugs require little sheeting effort, reef nicely with little change in center of effort, and jibe very gently. I like the way they look and the way they perform. Good choice!
John T
I believe that you are reading about a "dipping lug sail" and these were used on fishing boats in open water where frequent tacking was not a necessity.
Although PCB has used a dipping lug on a couple of boats (including his own), Windsprint uses a balanced lug sail and this sail stays on one side of the mast. As a result, on one tack, the sail blows against the mast and many people think this "spoils the set of the sail". It might, but I have two boats with balanced lug sails and I have never been able to identify any difference in performance between the "good" tack and the "bad" tack.
Balanced lugs have two peculiarities. When you lower the sail, the peak of the yard (top corner of the sail) comes down first and it comes down quickly! Suggest that you raise and lower the sail a couple of times before you get on the water to get the feel of this. Second, balanced lug sails perform best if you can keep the leading edge of the sail fairly tight. This is accomplished with a multi part down haul. Basically, this is a line which goes from the deck near the mast, over the boom (or a small block on the boom near the mast), down to a block on the deck, and then to a cleat. (I have an old Magic Box on my bigger boat. It's overkill, but I'm old and lazy.) You hoist the sail to the top of the mast, cleat the halyard, and then apply tension to the downhaul.
Balanced lugs require little sheeting effort, reef nicely with little change in center of effort, and jibe very gently. I like the way they look and the way they perform. Good choice!
John T
----- Original Message -----
From: Steven DAntonio
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 10:12 AM
Subject: [bolger] sailing lug rigged
I am looking into building a Windspirit and have a question regarding
sailing her when she is completed. I have 25 years as a violin maker,
so I'm expecting with all that woodworking experience she will at
least float when I'm finished (I hope).
I'm used to sailing bermudan rig, you know, the triangular sails you
see on the vast majority of small craft. But have been reading up on
sailing lug rigged on the web and it seems the more I read the more
confused I get.
"Tacking involves moving the forward tip of the spar and the attached
sail behind the mast to the other side."
Does this mean that to tack I have to somehow pull the sail back aft
so that the gaf and boom can be swung to the other side of the mast?
That would seem the only way I can think of to keep that nice airfoil
shape in the sheet without the mast causing it to colapse on one tack.
Is there some site anyone can recomend with lots of pictures of this
(video would be even better)? Do I just have to get on the water and
do it a few times to get the idea (and I should probably expect to end
up swimming a few times during the learning process)? Or am I totally
misinterpreting what I'm reading here and other places?
Steven
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Steven DAntonio" <sdantonio93@...>
wrote:
I believe that mostly applies to the dipping lug, unless you are only
tacking once in awhile and want to keep the best sail shape on each
tack. See illustration at the top of this link:
http://www.instantboats.com/windsprint.htm
In short tacking manouvers the sail is not touched and performance on
one tack will be slightly better than on the other.
However there is another factor involved with Windsprint performance
in that the daggerboard is off-set to one side which results in less
leeway on one tack than the other.
So if one sets up the sail so that the best shape is on the tack that
has the daggerboard at a disadvantge depthwise, then the difference on
each tack becomes hardly noticeable.
Here is a recent post from noted boat designer, John Welsford on
another forum:
"I've experimented a lot with offcenterboards, and have sailed a
Windsprint quite a bit. The rig as designed is slightly better on one
tack than the other, and if you rig the boat with the rig to advantage
when the daggerboard is on the less advantaged side (when its up on
the high side)you wil find that when the rig is on the disadvantaged
tack and the 'board is on the advantaged side that the difference in
performance between one tack and the other is so slight as to be hard
to detect.
Bolger is a designer of great skill and immense experience, if you
think that in your wisdom you need to change his work because you
think you know better, go for it."
Bolger states, "In gentle winds and smooth water, this rig is a good
one for the lazy; light to sheet, and self-trimming from tack to tack,
needing no adjustment to make it hold a good shape on all points of
sailing. It can be jibed all standing without much hazard." ... from
Rig 17 of his book, "100 Small Boat Rigs."
Therefor if you are looking for racing level performance it probably
could be somewhat disappointing. Broad reaching it outperforms some
fancier rigs:-)
Nels
wrote:
> "Tacking involves moving the forward tip of the spar and the attachedHi Steven,
> sail behind the mast to the other side."
>
I believe that mostly applies to the dipping lug, unless you are only
tacking once in awhile and want to keep the best sail shape on each
tack. See illustration at the top of this link:
http://www.instantboats.com/windsprint.htm
In short tacking manouvers the sail is not touched and performance on
one tack will be slightly better than on the other.
However there is another factor involved with Windsprint performance
in that the daggerboard is off-set to one side which results in less
leeway on one tack than the other.
So if one sets up the sail so that the best shape is on the tack that
has the daggerboard at a disadvantge depthwise, then the difference on
each tack becomes hardly noticeable.
Here is a recent post from noted boat designer, John Welsford on
another forum:
"I've experimented a lot with offcenterboards, and have sailed a
Windsprint quite a bit. The rig as designed is slightly better on one
tack than the other, and if you rig the boat with the rig to advantage
when the daggerboard is on the less advantaged side (when its up on
the high side)you wil find that when the rig is on the disadvantaged
tack and the 'board is on the advantaged side that the difference in
performance between one tack and the other is so slight as to be hard
to detect.
Bolger is a designer of great skill and immense experience, if you
think that in your wisdom you need to change his work because you
think you know better, go for it."
Bolger states, "In gentle winds and smooth water, this rig is a good
one for the lazy; light to sheet, and self-trimming from tack to tack,
needing no adjustment to make it hold a good shape on all points of
sailing. It can be jibed all standing without much hazard." ... from
Rig 17 of his book, "100 Small Boat Rigs."
Therefor if you are looking for racing level performance it probably
could be somewhat disappointing. Broad reaching it outperforms some
fancier rigs:-)
Nels
Steven,
Check out this link at Jim Michalak's site that I found helpful:
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/2000/0615/index.htm#BALA
NCED%20LUG%20JIFFY%20REEF
The link probably wraps so copy and paste the whole thing into the
address bar. Otherwise go to the alphabetical index.
Windsprint's sailplan is a balanced lug sail. Moving the sail to
the other side of the mast is not required when tacking. The
difference in performance when the sail is pinned against the mast
is marginal IMHO.
Jeff
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Steven DAntonio" <sdantonio93@...>
wrote:
Check out this link at Jim Michalak's site that I found helpful:
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/2000/0615/index.htm#BALA
NCED%20LUG%20JIFFY%20REEF
The link probably wraps so copy and paste the whole thing into the
address bar. Otherwise go to the alphabetical index.
Windsprint's sailplan is a balanced lug sail. Moving the sail to
the other side of the mast is not required when tacking. The
difference in performance when the sail is pinned against the mast
is marginal IMHO.
Jeff
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Steven DAntonio" <sdantonio93@...>
wrote:
>attached
> "Tacking involves moving the forward tip of the spar and the
> sail behind the mast to the other side."aft
>
> Does this mean that to tack I have to somehow pull the sail back
> so that the gaf and boom can be swung to the other side of themast?
> That would seem the only way I can think of to keep that niceairfoil
> shape in the sheet without the mast causing it to colapse on onetack.
> Is there some site anyone can recomend?places?
> Or am I totally misinterpreting what I'm reading here and other
>
> Steven
>
I am looking into building a Windspirit and have a question regarding
sailing her when she is completed. I have 25 years as a violin maker,
so I'm expecting with all that woodworking experience she will at
least float when I'm finished (I hope).
I'm used to sailing bermudan rig, you know, the triangular sails you
see on the vast majority of small craft. But have been reading up on
sailing lug rigged on the web and it seems the more I read the more
confused I get.
"Tacking involves moving the forward tip of the spar and the attached
sail behind the mast to the other side."
Does this mean that to tack I have to somehow pull the sail back aft
so that the gaf and boom can be swung to the other side of the mast?
That would seem the only way I can think of to keep that nice airfoil
shape in the sheet without the mast causing it to colapse on one tack.
Is there some site anyone can recomend with lots of pictures of this
(video would be even better)? Do I just have to get on the water and
do it a few times to get the idea (and I should probably expect to end
up swimming a few times during the learning process)? Or am I totally
misinterpreting what I'm reading here and other places?
Steven
sailing her when she is completed. I have 25 years as a violin maker,
so I'm expecting with all that woodworking experience she will at
least float when I'm finished (I hope).
I'm used to sailing bermudan rig, you know, the triangular sails you
see on the vast majority of small craft. But have been reading up on
sailing lug rigged on the web and it seems the more I read the more
confused I get.
"Tacking involves moving the forward tip of the spar and the attached
sail behind the mast to the other side."
Does this mean that to tack I have to somehow pull the sail back aft
so that the gaf and boom can be swung to the other side of the mast?
That would seem the only way I can think of to keep that nice airfoil
shape in the sheet without the mast causing it to colapse on one tack.
Is there some site anyone can recomend with lots of pictures of this
(video would be even better)? Do I just have to get on the water and
do it a few times to get the idea (and I should probably expect to end
up swimming a few times during the learning process)? Or am I totally
misinterpreting what I'm reading here and other places?
Steven