Re: Foor boards in Bolger's CarTopper
Thanks, Dave
I have the three chunks of ply cut, and have been standing around with them
in my hand, looking and scratching my head. It was the lengthwise pieces
between the floor and the hull that did not show up plainly on the drawings.
(They don't show on the plan view, being hidden under the flat 1 X 3 pieces, and
of course the cross section misses them entirely.
It's getting cool enough in the mornings now to go outside and do a little
woodwork. Next project is to find enough water here in the desert to go
sailing.
John
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I have the three chunks of ply cut, and have been standing around with them
in my hand, looking and scratching my head. It was the lengthwise pieces
between the floor and the hull that did not show up plainly on the drawings.
(They don't show on the plan view, being hidden under the flat 1 X 3 pieces, and
of course the cross section misses them entirely.
It's getting cool enough in the mornings now to go outside and do a little
woodwork. Next project is to find enough water here in the desert to go
sailing.
John
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
John,
You add 1" x 2" strips along the inside faces of the 1/4" frames so that
the top of the 1" x 2" is even with the top of the frame as it crosses
the bottom of the boat. Next you cut out a piece of 1/4" ply so that it
fits the space between the two frames and rests on both 1/4'" frames.
The plywood is notched on either side where the frames rise to support
the sides of the boat. Each end of the floor will look something like
the diagram below. The removeable screws are set into the 1" x 2"s.
_________|--------------------------------------------------------|_____\
____
The floor is strengthened with two 1"x 4"s (as I remember--check this.)
that are attached lengthwise to the bottom of the removeable floor and
rest on the floor of the boat. The sides of the curved plywood floor
match the curvature of the boat's sides. I found cutting the sides of
the plywood floor to fit the sides to be the difficult part.
You can add some flotation under this floor, if you wish; but make
certain it clears the bottom for air circulation underneath. There are
disadvantages to flotation at the bottom of your boat, but it sure beats
sinking. In upset tests with my Cartopper, she didn't turn turtle, even
with bottom flotation.
The floor adds considerable stiffness to the boat, but it also adds
considerable weight. On the other hand, it's weight at the bottom and it
helps keeps your own bottom dry and allows you to scoot around the
bottom of the boat a little more easily when you need to adjust your
position in a gust.
Dave Gray
You add 1" x 2" strips along the inside faces of the 1/4" frames so that
the top of the 1" x 2" is even with the top of the frame as it crosses
the bottom of the boat. Next you cut out a piece of 1/4" ply so that it
fits the space between the two frames and rests on both 1/4'" frames.
The plywood is notched on either side where the frames rise to support
the sides of the boat. Each end of the floor will look something like
the diagram below. The removeable screws are set into the 1" x 2"s.
_________|--------------------------------------------------------|_____\
____
The floor is strengthened with two 1"x 4"s (as I remember--check this.)
that are attached lengthwise to the bottom of the removeable floor and
rest on the floor of the boat. The sides of the curved plywood floor
match the curvature of the boat's sides. I found cutting the sides of
the plywood floor to fit the sides to be the difficult part.
You can add some flotation under this floor, if you wish; but make
certain it clears the bottom for air circulation underneath. There are
disadvantages to flotation at the bottom of your boat, but it sure beats
sinking. In upset tests with my Cartopper, she didn't turn turtle, even
with bottom flotation.
The floor adds considerable stiffness to the boat, but it also adds
considerable weight. On the other hand, it's weight at the bottom and it
helps keeps your own bottom dry and allows you to scoot around the
bottom of the boat a little more easily when you need to adjust your
position in a gust.
Dave Gray
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John" <catboat15@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All. I have a cartopper about finished, need to put in the
> floorboards and the drawings are confusing and not helped at all by
the
> comments from Dynamite Payson in Wooden Boats.
> This is my second CarTopper and I don't remember any floor in her at
> all. That one I built from the instructions in the magazine "Family
> Handyman" also by Payson.
> Just waiting now for a loan of a truck to bring home the 16 foot 2X4s
> to make mast and gunwhales.
> Any help on the floor boards would be appreciated. The plans call for
> removeable screws to hold the floor in place and I sure don't see what
> can be screwed to the edges of 1/4 inch ply.
> John Meacham
>
Hi All. I have a cartopper about finished, need to put in the
floorboards and the drawings are confusing and not helped at all by the
comments from Dynamite Payson in Wooden Boats.
This is my second CarTopper and I don't remember any floor in her at
all. That one I built from the instructions in the magazine "Family
Handyman" also by Payson.
Just waiting now for a loan of a truck to bring home the 16 foot 2X4s
to make mast and gunwhales.
Any help on the floor boards would be appreciated. The plans call for
removeable screws to hold the floor in place and I sure don't see what
can be screwed to the edges of 1/4 inch ply.
John Meacham
floorboards and the drawings are confusing and not helped at all by the
comments from Dynamite Payson in Wooden Boats.
This is my second CarTopper and I don't remember any floor in her at
all. That one I built from the instructions in the magazine "Family
Handyman" also by Payson.
Just waiting now for a loan of a truck to bring home the 16 foot 2X4s
to make mast and gunwhales.
Any help on the floor boards would be appreciated. The plans call for
removeable screws to hold the floor in place and I sure don't see what
can be screwed to the edges of 1/4 inch ply.
John Meacham