Re: [bolger] Re: Needs to know more about the Micro
Thanks for posting this. I missed it also. I'm about ready to send the
$100 for plans from PCB of course. Clyde
graeme19121984 wrote:
$100 for plans from PCB of course. Clyde
graeme19121984 wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com<mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>, "Joe[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Tribulato" <scsbmsjoe@...> wrote:
> >
> > Google will probably get you plenty of hits as Micro is a popular
> > design. Oldshoe (or Old Shoe) is similar but smaller.
>
> Apart from what you've posted Joe, and a very few pics from others
> here and there, there is not much available info on the Old Shoe
> even though it is mentioned fairly often.
>
> I may have read this write-up by Bill Nicolay on his "Far Out"
> quite some time ago, but had completely forgotten it, I can't
> believe I've missed seeing his Duckworks article linked from here
> before:
>
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/01/articles/old_shoe/index.htm
> <http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/01/articles/old_shoe/index.htm>
>
> it's probably the most comprehensive single report on the building
> and use of this design I've seen.
>
>
>
>
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
the present tiller arrangement on LM, with little alteration to it?
There is also the arrangement of a small dog house helm station set
way aft as on the budget #543 Class lV Ostar Racer:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BolgerCartoons/files/Class%20lV%
20Ostar%20Racer/
http://tinyurl.com/qcvd9
(I'm fairly sure the daggerboard of this design could carefully be
raised all the way to allow some motoring and a protected, private,
drying mooring. On a shoestring, from tropical mangrove creeks to
the Straights of Magellan, anyone? ...If only the mast were easily
lowered..., I think the daggerboard could be set up to be trailered,
just wouldn't want to do it regularly. How much trailer weight?
Empty - only 2+ tons??)
Also storage. These increases, for not much more, should open up a
lot of offshore options to LM, like the hop from here to New
Zealand, and the rest of the more temperate scattered South Pacific
islands.
apparently quite successful New Orleans Lugger no-dip, dipping lug?
(Dip when you can. No dip when you must - and still tack!) I saw it
in H I Chapelle's _ American Small Sailing Craft_, p282.
The dipping lug would point better to windwards than the balance
lug, and by its lifting effect give a better downwind ride - good
things when in the tradewinds. It also can be a powerful
decksweeper - as for FMS. There's searoom enough to handle the
dipping lug in the usual way when blue water sailing, especially the
way PCB draws the yard peak halyard, yet with the New Orleans rig
modifications at the tack and clew the sail does not require
dipping. The tack is fixed by a tackle to a horse athwartships,
forwards of the mast, so that it may be hauled across to weather on
the "bad" tack. A tackle at the clew allows the sail foot to be
tightened so that the sail is held clear of the mast. There is some
loss of performance on the "bad" leg, but the benefit is that as the
forepart of the sail is not aback it may be tacked without being
stuck in irons. It allows quick tacking in close quarters. If they
could do that with the stretchy sail materials used in the old days
then it should be no problem for modern materials and methods. There
would be a few extra strings to pull, by not much - not as much as a
junk, and they could be led aft to the helm.
Seems to give the best of both the balanced and dipping lugs without
their respective downsides. You may not like this though - I think
the mast would require stepping further back from the bow than with
the balanced lug, which of course can be right in the bow.
Graeme
> All in all, a Long Micro would be my choice for seaworthiness andWouldn't an aft placed Alaskan Motor Sailer pilot house/saloon allow
> safety offshore, based on what PCB&F have written on the matter.
> Particularly a Navigator version, the challenge being to have an
> inside steering station which I would love to see them design. The
> Micro designed tiller arrangement would not work in a LM Nav.
the present tiller arrangement on LM, with little alteration to it?
There is also the arrangement of a small dog house helm station set
way aft as on the budget #543 Class lV Ostar Racer:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BolgerCartoons/files/Class%20lV%
20Ostar%20Racer/
http://tinyurl.com/qcvd9
(I'm fairly sure the daggerboard of this design could carefully be
raised all the way to allow some motoring and a protected, private,
drying mooring. On a shoestring, from tropical mangrove creeks to
the Straights of Magellan, anyone? ...If only the mast were easily
lowered..., I think the daggerboard could be set up to be trailered,
just wouldn't want to do it regularly. How much trailer weight?
Empty - only 2+ tons??)
>Plus you have a significant increase in hull speed and sailcarrying area.
Also storage. These increases, for not much more, should open up a
lot of offshore options to LM, like the hop from here to New
Zealand, and the rest of the more temperate scattered South Pacific
islands.
> I also would like to see one with a fully battened balanced lugI haven't a copy of PCB's _103 Smallboat Rigs_. Does he cover the
> option like that of the Alaskan MS, which would have fewer strings
> than the Chinese gaff rig.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/htpaa
>
apparently quite successful New Orleans Lugger no-dip, dipping lug?
(Dip when you can. No dip when you must - and still tack!) I saw it
in H I Chapelle's _ American Small Sailing Craft_, p282.
The dipping lug would point better to windwards than the balance
lug, and by its lifting effect give a better downwind ride - good
things when in the tradewinds. It also can be a powerful
decksweeper - as for FMS. There's searoom enough to handle the
dipping lug in the usual way when blue water sailing, especially the
way PCB draws the yard peak halyard, yet with the New Orleans rig
modifications at the tack and clew the sail does not require
dipping. The tack is fixed by a tackle to a horse athwartships,
forwards of the mast, so that it may be hauled across to weather on
the "bad" tack. A tackle at the clew allows the sail foot to be
tightened so that the sail is held clear of the mast. There is some
loss of performance on the "bad" leg, but the benefit is that as the
forepart of the sail is not aback it may be tacked without being
stuck in irons. It allows quick tacking in close quarters. If they
could do that with the stretchy sail materials used in the old days
then it should be no problem for modern materials and methods. There
would be a few extra strings to pull, by not much - not as much as a
junk, and they could be led aft to the helm.
Seems to give the best of both the balanced and dipping lugs without
their respective downsides. You may not like this though - I think
the mast would require stepping further back from the bow than with
the balanced lug, which of course can be right in the bow.
> At some point that may be useful to pursue with PCB&F. Lets allfax
> them;-)OK! Good idea. I'll write them by letter.
Graeme
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...>
wrote:
Here are some links for Micro:
http://www.boatdesign.com/micro/index.html
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/micro2/index.htm
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/micro/index.htm
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/01/articles/champlain/index.htm
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/01/articles/mayflies/index.htm
Peter installed a bronze horse on Lestat but it is not needed.
Mostly it provides some added clearance when raising the motor.
I have not seen a design that gives more boat for the work and
investment unless possibly some of Michalak's for which he pays
homage to Bolger over and over.
All in all, a Long Micro would be my choice for seaworthiness and
safety offshore, based on what PCB&F have written on the matter.
Particularly a Navigator version, the challenge being to have an
inside steering station which I would love to see them design. The
Micro designed tiller arrangement would not work in a LM Nav.
The amazing thing about the LM is that by adding 4 feet of length to
the center area, it increases the load carrying capability to a
large extent without adding all that much weight to the trailering
load. (Has essentially the same lead weight in the keel and a less
complicated pour as it is a rectangular shape.) Plus you have a
significant increase in hull speed and sail carrying area. (Roughly
30%) That is why having a hard chine box shape is so beneficial
compared to a softer bilge design.
I also would like to see one with a fully battened balanced lug
option like that of the Alaskan MS, which would have fewer strings
than the Chinese gaff rig.
http://tinyurl.com/htpaa
Combined with a Yamaha T9.9 that would be pretty seaworthy design,
capable of easily doing the inside passage to Alaska.
At some point that may be useful to pursue with PCB&F. Lets all fax
them;-)
Nels
wrote:
> I may have read this write-up by Bill Nicolay on his "Far Out"Great link Graeme!
> quite some time ago, but had completely forgotten it, I can't
> believe I've missed seeing his Duckworks article linked from here
> before:
>
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/01/articles/old_shoe/index.htm
>
> it's probably the most comprehensive single report on the building
> and use of this design I've seen.
Here are some links for Micro:
http://www.boatdesign.com/micro/index.html
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/micro2/index.htm
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/micro/index.htm
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/01/articles/champlain/index.htm
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/01/articles/mayflies/index.htm
Peter installed a bronze horse on Lestat but it is not needed.
Mostly it provides some added clearance when raising the motor.
I have not seen a design that gives more boat for the work and
investment unless possibly some of Michalak's for which he pays
homage to Bolger over and over.
All in all, a Long Micro would be my choice for seaworthiness and
safety offshore, based on what PCB&F have written on the matter.
Particularly a Navigator version, the challenge being to have an
inside steering station which I would love to see them design. The
Micro designed tiller arrangement would not work in a LM Nav.
The amazing thing about the LM is that by adding 4 feet of length to
the center area, it increases the load carrying capability to a
large extent without adding all that much weight to the trailering
load. (Has essentially the same lead weight in the keel and a less
complicated pour as it is a rectangular shape.) Plus you have a
significant increase in hull speed and sail carrying area. (Roughly
30%) That is why having a hard chine box shape is so beneficial
compared to a softer bilge design.
I also would like to see one with a fully battened balanced lug
option like that of the Alaskan MS, which would have fewer strings
than the Chinese gaff rig.
http://tinyurl.com/htpaa
Combined with a Yamaha T9.9 that would be pretty seaworthy design,
capable of easily doing the inside passage to Alaska.
At some point that may be useful to pursue with PCB&F. Lets all fax
them;-)
Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Tribulato" <scsbmsjoe@...> wrote:
here and there, there is not much available info on the Old Shoe
even though it is mentioned fairly often.
I may have read this write-up by Bill Nicolay on his "Far Out"
quite some time ago, but had completely forgotten it, I can't
believe I've missed seeing his Duckworks article linked from here
before:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/01/articles/old_shoe/index.htm
it's probably the most comprehensive single report on the building
and use of this design I've seen.
Lots of ideas for building modifications, and sailing improvements
(eg. reacher/spinnaker, leeboard, smaller bow hole). I didn't think
an Oldshoe would pull its stern wave in over the transom... under
sail!
There are many points to consider in this article. I don't recall
that a lot of those have been discussed all that much. What about
Bill's observations that "..The righting moment does not appear to
build as the boat heels..."? I know this relates to very strong
winds situations where "..Everyone else is running for cover and I
can go anywhere -- singlehanded -- jibing and tacking with ease...",
but has anyone done capsize tests? It worried Bill.
Based on his observations in use, would Bill's proposal for a main
sheet traveller remove twist on this LOM sprit boom sail? (My
understanding is that Bill is referring to pointing ability as a
problem in light to moderate winds.) Doesn't the sprit boom make the
sail self-vanging, and the straight cut foot (as noted on so many
plans) vang effect prevents upper sail twist? I don't think I've
seen PCB draw a traveller for this sail type, and would expect him
to have if there were pointing benefits.
Seems as though Bill was very satisfied with Old Shoe. I wonder what
his later assessment would be after further changes and use?
Graeme
>Apart from what you've posted Joe, and a very few pics from others
> Google will probably get you plenty of hits as Micro is a popular
> design. Oldshoe (or Old Shoe) is similar but smaller.
here and there, there is not much available info on the Old Shoe
even though it is mentioned fairly often.
I may have read this write-up by Bill Nicolay on his "Far Out"
quite some time ago, but had completely forgotten it, I can't
believe I've missed seeing his Duckworks article linked from here
before:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/01/articles/old_shoe/index.htm
it's probably the most comprehensive single report on the building
and use of this design I've seen.
Lots of ideas for building modifications, and sailing improvements
(eg. reacher/spinnaker, leeboard, smaller bow hole). I didn't think
an Oldshoe would pull its stern wave in over the transom... under
sail!
There are many points to consider in this article. I don't recall
that a lot of those have been discussed all that much. What about
Bill's observations that "..The righting moment does not appear to
build as the boat heels..."? I know this relates to very strong
winds situations where "..Everyone else is running for cover and I
can go anywhere -- singlehanded -- jibing and tacking with ease...",
but has anyone done capsize tests? It worried Bill.
Based on his observations in use, would Bill's proposal for a main
sheet traveller remove twist on this LOM sprit boom sail? (My
understanding is that Bill is referring to pointing ability as a
problem in light to moderate winds.) Doesn't the sprit boom make the
sail self-vanging, and the straight cut foot (as noted on so many
plans) vang effect prevents upper sail twist? I don't think I've
seen PCB draw a traveller for this sail type, and would expect him
to have if there were pointing benefits.
Seems as though Bill was very satisfied with Old Shoe. I wonder what
his later assessment would be after further changes and use?
Graeme
Greg,
Back about 10 years ago I stumbled across two of Jim Brown's books on
the Sea Runner
line of trimarans. I fell in love with his design. For those
unfamiliar with Jim Brown's books,
they were basically study plans written as lengthy books. The books
explained the rationale
for a trimaran, why his design was better, and how construction
should progress. There were
tons of photos, pictures of other builders building their Sea
runners, and lots of cartoons.
Informative and inspirational.
The Sea Runner 25 was one of the boats I seriously considered before
started leaning towards
Bolger's designs. You are lucky to have one and I can only imagine
the adventures you've had
on yours.
Bill, in Ohio
Back about 10 years ago I stumbled across two of Jim Brown's books on
the Sea Runner
line of trimarans. I fell in love with his design. For those
unfamiliar with Jim Brown's books,
they were basically study plans written as lengthy books. The books
explained the rationale
for a trimaran, why his design was better, and how construction
should progress. There were
tons of photos, pictures of other builders building their Sea
runners, and lots of cartoons.
Informative and inspirational.
The Sea Runner 25 was one of the boats I seriously considered before
started leaning towards
Bolger's designs. You are lucky to have one and I can only imagine
the adventures you've had
on yours.
Bill, in Ohio
HI, As for building I built one of Jim Brown's 25' searunner trimarans, GREAT BOAT ,sails very well but if you build, it will cost twice as much and take three times longer than planned. I say only build if it is for the building experience or something that can't be found for sale . The only way I will build a Micro 15/19 or similar is to do it full time in 3-4 months, yes 200 hr. per mo. The only reason for replacing the tri is it takes 2 plus hrs. for 2 people to set up to launch. I want something under 45 min. by myself when I am retired. in a few yrs.
Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote: On 9/4/06, dustymick64 <dustymick64@...> wrote:
different (and better in several ways) than the sloop sail rig that is
common on 98% of modern sailboats. Depending on the individual,
re-learning how to sail a Cat Yawl (versus a Sloop) might take a few+
minutes.
A Cat Yawl rig has a big sail in front and a small sail in back. It
allows much more direct control of the hull than a sloop rig, and
contributes to a overall ease of use which makes a Micro a pleasant,
low stress, boat to sail.
Also, bear in mind that building a boat is not for everyone.
Certainly building is not faster than buying, and ususally not cheaper
either.
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote: On 9/4/06, dustymick64 <dustymick64@...> wrote:
> Hello! Would like to hear from Micro owners/builders about theirOf course, the Micro has a Cat Yawl sailing rig, which is much
> boats. As a first timer I would like to know how they sail and handle.
different (and better in several ways) than the sloop sail rig that is
common on 98% of modern sailboats. Depending on the individual,
re-learning how to sail a Cat Yawl (versus a Sloop) might take a few+
minutes.
A Cat Yawl rig has a big sail in front and a small sail in back. It
allows much more direct control of the hull than a sloop rig, and
contributes to a overall ease of use which makes a Micro a pleasant,
low stress, boat to sail.
Also, bear in mind that building a boat is not for everyone.
Certainly building is not faster than buying, and ususally not cheaper
either.
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Dusty (?),
I can only speak of building, since I'm still building my Long Micro
(LM). I'm LM biased, so I suggest that you expand your search for
advice to the larger sibiling of the lovable Micro. Off the top of me
head, here's my building advice:
1. Are you sure you want to build? If you're looking for a boat to
sail, buy a used boat and sail. It's more expensive to build a boat,
and no one should expect to get their money back from their home-built
Micro. The only reason to build a boat is b/c you want to build a
boat or you want something interesting. Like a micro.
2. Ensure you have the space and time to build. The estimates for
building an LM (admittedly a little bigger than the Micro) run around
800 hours. I recall that Micros are calling for 500-odd hours?
At first blush that sounds easy ("yeah. I'll work an average of 2
hours per night and be done inside of a year"). Life gets in the way
of a boat building project. And sometimes life dictates that these
half-built Micro hulls are sold. These half-built dreams should serve
as both a possible starting point (buy someone else's half-built hull
and complete it), and a caution. Many dream, some start, few finish.
3. Build a strong-back/frame. I know the plans don't call for one,
but it helps in aligning the bulkheads, ensuring they are
perpendicular to the sides, etc. Plus you can put casters on your
strongback and roll your boat around as needed (VERY helpful). I used
my strongback (with casters) to winch my LM onto a flat-bed trailer.
There wasn't enough room in my garage to lift the boat and slide a
traler underneath.
4. Start constructon (per the plans) by building your Micro
upside-down. You'll be able to laminate the bottom easily without
flipping your boat. I started building my LM right-side-up (I had my
reasons. In hindsight they were foolish reasons) and I had to flip it
to install the bottom. This required a lot of temporary bracing to
execute the flip (the bottom adds a lot of strength to the boat). I
should have followed the directions.
5. Once you have the bottom on, flip the boat onto one side. Finish
the exterior hull-side which is now at the top, and install most of
your internal framing in the hull. Much easier than climbing a ladder
and crawling around inside the boat when you want to install the
boat's interior. When you are done with that side, flip the boat onto
the other side and finish the "up" exterior hull side. Much easier
applying epoxy when you're working on a flat surface.
6. Don't mess with the master's plans. Most attempts to modify or
improve on Bolger's boats decrease from the boat's performance or
safety.
Bill, in Ohio
I can only speak of building, since I'm still building my Long Micro
(LM). I'm LM biased, so I suggest that you expand your search for
advice to the larger sibiling of the lovable Micro. Off the top of me
head, here's my building advice:
1. Are you sure you want to build? If you're looking for a boat to
sail, buy a used boat and sail. It's more expensive to build a boat,
and no one should expect to get their money back from their home-built
Micro. The only reason to build a boat is b/c you want to build a
boat or you want something interesting. Like a micro.
2. Ensure you have the space and time to build. The estimates for
building an LM (admittedly a little bigger than the Micro) run around
800 hours. I recall that Micros are calling for 500-odd hours?
At first blush that sounds easy ("yeah. I'll work an average of 2
hours per night and be done inside of a year"). Life gets in the way
of a boat building project. And sometimes life dictates that these
half-built Micro hulls are sold. These half-built dreams should serve
as both a possible starting point (buy someone else's half-built hull
and complete it), and a caution. Many dream, some start, few finish.
3. Build a strong-back/frame. I know the plans don't call for one,
but it helps in aligning the bulkheads, ensuring they are
perpendicular to the sides, etc. Plus you can put casters on your
strongback and roll your boat around as needed (VERY helpful). I used
my strongback (with casters) to winch my LM onto a flat-bed trailer.
There wasn't enough room in my garage to lift the boat and slide a
traler underneath.
4. Start constructon (per the plans) by building your Micro
upside-down. You'll be able to laminate the bottom easily without
flipping your boat. I started building my LM right-side-up (I had my
reasons. In hindsight they were foolish reasons) and I had to flip it
to install the bottom. This required a lot of temporary bracing to
execute the flip (the bottom adds a lot of strength to the boat). I
should have followed the directions.
5. Once you have the bottom on, flip the boat onto one side. Finish
the exterior hull-side which is now at the top, and install most of
your internal framing in the hull. Much easier than climbing a ladder
and crawling around inside the boat when you want to install the
boat's interior. When you are done with that side, flip the boat onto
the other side and finish the "up" exterior hull side. Much easier
applying epoxy when you're working on a flat surface.
6. Don't mess with the master's plans. Most attempts to modify or
improve on Bolger's boats decrease from the boat's performance or
safety.
Bill, in Ohio
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dustymick64" <dustymick64@...> wrote:
>
> Hello! Would like to hear from Micro owners/builders about their
> boats. As a first timer I would like to know how they sail and handle.
> What kind of water can this design handle? Any problems while
> building? Big adventures? Long cruises? Eager to hear it all...!
>
On 9/4/06, dustymick64 <dustymick64@...> wrote:
different (and better in several ways) than the sloop sail rig that is
common on 98% of modern sailboats. Depending on the individual,
re-learning how to sail a Cat Yawl (versus a Sloop) might take a few+
minutes.
A Cat Yawl rig has a big sail in front and a small sail in back. It
allows much more direct control of the hull than a sloop rig, and
contributes to a overall ease of use which makes a Micro a pleasant,
low stress, boat to sail.
Also, bear in mind that building a boat is not for everyone.
Certainly building is not faster than buying, and ususally not cheaper
either.
> Hello! Would like to hear from Micro owners/builders about theirOf course, the Micro has a Cat Yawl sailing rig, which is much
> boats. As a first timer I would like to know how they sail and handle.
different (and better in several ways) than the sloop sail rig that is
common on 98% of modern sailboats. Depending on the individual,
re-learning how to sail a Cat Yawl (versus a Sloop) might take a few+
minutes.
A Cat Yawl rig has a big sail in front and a small sail in back. It
allows much more direct control of the hull than a sloop rig, and
contributes to a overall ease of use which makes a Micro a pleasant,
low stress, boat to sail.
Also, bear in mind that building a boat is not for everyone.
Certainly building is not faster than buying, and ususally not cheaper
either.
Google will probably get you plenty of hits as Micro is a popular
design. Oldshoe (or Old Shoe) is similar but smaller.
Joe T
design. Oldshoe (or Old Shoe) is similar but smaller.
Joe T
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dustymick64" <dustymick64@...> wrote:
>
> Hello! Would like to hear from Micro owners/builders about their
> boats. As a first timer I would like to know how they sail and handle.
> What kind of water can this design handle? Any problems while
> building? Big adventures? Long cruises? Eager to hear it all...!
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dustymick64" <dustymick64@...> wrote:
Cheers
Graeme
>Be prepared! There's lots in the group archives - just search "Micro".
> Hello! Would like to hear from Micro owners/builders... Eager to
>hear it all...!
Cheers
Graeme
Hm, a good start would be to go to the Bolger Group site and use the
search function for the messages above the last new messages
displayed... type in Micro and you'll find it all... Secondly I'll let
the others speak. I posted the question whether the Micro could handle
shore offshore hops, too, so this might be interesting for you.
Cheers
Thomas
dustymick64 wrote:
Telefonate ohne weitere Kosten vom PC zum PC:http://messenger.yahoo.de
search function for the messages above the last new messages
displayed... type in Micro and you'll find it all... Secondly I'll let
the others speak. I posted the question whether the Micro could handle
shore offshore hops, too, so this might be interesting for you.
Cheers
Thomas
dustymick64 wrote:
> Hello! Would like to hear from Micro owners/builders about their___________________________________________________________
> boats. As a first timer I would like to know how they sail and handle.
> What kind of water can this design handle? Any problems while
> building? Big adventures? Long cruises? Eager to hear it all...
Telefonate ohne weitere Kosten vom PC zum PC:http://messenger.yahoo.de
Hello! Would like to hear from Micro owners/builders about their
boats. As a first timer I would like to know how they sail and handle.
What kind of water can this design handle? Any problems while
building? Big adventures? Long cruises? Eager to hear it all...!
boats. As a first timer I would like to know how they sail and handle.
What kind of water can this design handle? Any problems while
building? Big adventures? Long cruises? Eager to hear it all...!