[bolger] Re: Re: Parrel beads -- where to buy?

Chuck at Duckworks sells parrel beads.

Thank you, you have voiced my feelings very well also.
About Parrel Beads.

Hey if you have some hardwood dowl and a drill press
and a CHEAP set of turning tool you are all set. Or
you can grind your own out of mild steel or an old
file. ...Oh don't have a drill press I bet you have a
hand drill and a vice. Be creative and think out side
the store box.

Use a bolt and lock you short dowl with a washers and
nuts and chuck it up. Make a tool rest out of ??? just
as long as it does not move when you are turning you
are set.

Hey you can even put a v around the middle of the bead
and take some glass strands and epoxy and fill the
grove with it and it should help hold the bead
together and keep it from cracking and falling off.

Home boat building and home aircraft building are
close kins. The end is to have a nice looking and
handling craft when you are done and to enjoy building
it as well. If you can't find what you want make what
you want. That's the whole idea behind both of them.

Just my view on parrel beads.

Blessings Kristine

--- Ron Magen <quahaug@...> wrote:

> > 1a. Re: Parrel beads -- where to buy?
>
> Where I have no direct experience - I usually keep
> my mouth shut.
>
> However, in this case I can't believe the thread has
> gone on so long
> without any REAL answer !!
>

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Harry,
I just went to McMaster-Car and pretended to order something and had
USPS Priority listed on the order page along with other shipping
methods. I have ordered a lot from them without any problems all
shipped USPS Priority. Maybe I remember early on I chose "Other" under
shipping methods and specified USPS Priority under "special
instructions" and from then on I get the USPS option.

fritz

-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:

>
> Fritz
>
> I agree that McMasters has lots of really good stuff, but I have had
> difficulties with them recently in that they won't ship anyway but UPS
> instead of mailing, and I hate to pay $50 shipping for a $30 item. How
> have you gotten around that?
>
> HJ
>
> fritzdfk wrote:
> > Try this link. McMaster-Carr is an incredible resource.
> >
> >http://www.mcmaster.com/
> >
> > Find "Raw Materials", on the home page then plastics, then balls.
> >
> > McMaster is also a great place for fasteners and most anything you can
> > think of. Their service is fast and reliable.
> >
> > fritz
> >
> >
>

Of course, Phil seems to have forgotten that the parrel is also needed
to keep the yard close when the sail is reefed.

Pat

Derek Waters wrote:

> Hi Steven
>
> Your grasp of the function of parrel beads sounds 'on the money' - they act
> like little wheels strung on a cord axle, and their function is to allow the
> parrel to move up and down the mast without binding. Particularly on a lug
> rig, the primary dimensioning decision would be 'long enough not to bind',
> short enough not to get in a knot'. In a discussion of the dipping lug, Phil
> Bolger gives a suggestion that the parrel can safely be made slack "up to a
> quarter of the beam" since it's only function is control the yard during
> hoisting or lowering sail.
>
> In other words you need not strive for a longer parrel than is adequate for
> easy 'non-stick' sail handling :)
>
> cheers
> Derek
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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Steven:

I think the 1/3 beam thing was 1/3 yard-length and applies to how far
from the end of the yard the halyard should be attached. You basically
want the yard as close to the mast as possible while allowing it to fall
easily when the halyard is released. Mine sags away about 6 inches
because of the way I attach it. You could probably do better.

Pat

Steven DAntonio wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> Let me ask a dumb question that parallels this discussion (no pun
> intended).
>
> Parallel beads. If I understand this right they wrap around the mast
> like a pearl necklace, (conecting to lets say the yard on both ends)
> acting like a form of ball bearings to allow the yead to be hoisted
> easier?
>
> And for a balanced lug, like the windsprint, the length of this
> necklace, so to speak, should be such that the yard can pull away from
> the mast by, how much? I think I heard somewhere 1/3 the beam or
> something like that.
>
> Thanks
> Steven
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Fritz

I agree that McMasters has lots of really good stuff, but I have had
difficulties with them recently in that they won't ship anyway but UPS
instead of mailing, and I hate to pay $50 shipping for a $30 item. How
have you gotten around that?

HJ

fritzdfk wrote:

> Try this link. McMaster-Carr is an incredible resource.
>
>http://www.mcmaster.com/
>
> Find "Raw Materials", on the home page then plastics, then balls.
>
> McMaster is also a great place for fasteners and most anything you can
> think of. Their service is fast and reliable.
>
> fritz
>
>

Try this link. McMaster-Carr is an incredible resource.

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Find "Raw Materials", on the home page then plastics, then balls.

McMaster is also a great place for fasteners and most anything you can
think of. Their service is fast and reliable.

fritz

Hi Steven

Your grasp of the function of parrel beads sounds 'on the money' - they act
like little wheels strung on a cord axle, and their function is to allow the
parrel to move up and down the mast without binding. Particularly on a lug
rig, the primary dimensioning decision would be 'long enough not to bind',
short enough not to get in a knot'. In a discussion of the dipping lug, Phil
Bolger gives a suggestion that the parrel can safely be made slack "up to a
quarter of the beam" since it's only function is control the yard during
hoisting or lowering sail.

In other words you need not strive for a longer parrel than is adequate for
easy 'non-stick' sail handling :)

cheers
Derek

You may wish to contact US Plastic Corp.

High Density Polyethylene Balls are quite inexpensive - item 91552 on page P-295 is 3/4" balls in lots of 100 cost 8 cents each.

Go to www.usplastic.com/catalog<http://www.usplastic.com/catalog>.

You will need to make a clamp to drill them - I can show you how offline if you wish.

Mike Kline

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> 1a. Re: Parrel beads -- where to buy?

Where I have no direct experience - I usually keep my mouth shut.

However, in this case I can't believe the thread has gone on so long
without any REAL answer !!

Look in almost any 'Woodworking' or 'Crafts' catalog {Meisel,
CherryTree, Sherwood, etc.}or web site. You'll find them from 1/2in up
to 3in . . . and maybe more. Some even have what would be 'starter
holes' or even 'through holes' for this usage . . . look for 'Wood
Balls', 'Dowel Caps', 'Ball Knobs', or 'Spandrel Balls'.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

Hi All,

Let me ask a dumb question that parallels this discussion (no pun
intended).

Parallel beads. If I understand this right they wrap around the mast
like a pearl necklace, (conecting to lets say the yard on both ends)
acting like a form of ball bearings to allow the yead to be hoisted
easier?

And for a balanced lug, like the windsprint, the length of this
necklace, so to speak, should be such that the yard can pull away from
the mast by, how much? I think I heard somewhere 1/3 the beam or
something like that.

Thanks
Steven

>
> Or you might find someone who makes beads Ran across
> a lady today who
> operates the business "the bead chick" and yes, she
> makes her own
> beads. I naturally told her about looking for parrel
> beads. Her first
> question was whether glass beads would do . . . .
> Upon being given an
> emphatic negative, she said she also makes polymer
> beads of any size
> and can do round beads. Inquirites can be directed
> to
>beadchick@.... Ner name is Peggy Ward. If
> anyone wants her
> snail mail address or phone number, let me know.

I sliced up a length of 1" id pvc into 1" or so bits
to make parrel 'beads' for a small outrigger with a
little polytarp junk rig I made. They worked fine.
You just want something on the parrel loop that keeps
it from sticking on the mast when it's raised or
lowered. Pvc is not as pretty as wood beads, of
course, but perhaps it would do until you run across a
bucket of wood beads for a dollar at a flea market or
something.

--
Kevin

If polymer beads means beads made from Sculpy or similar product, I
think you might be better off with glass beads -- the Sculpy stuff just
isn't strong enough.

Patrick

gbship wrote:

> Or you might find someone who makes beads Ran across a lady today who
> operates the business "the bead chick" and yes, she makes her own
> beads. I naturally told her about looking for parrel beads. Her first
> question was whether glass beads would do . . . . Upon being given an
> emphatic negative, she said she also makes polymer beads of any size
> and can do round beads. Inquirites can be directed to
>beadchick@.... Ner name is Peggy Ward. If anyone wants her
> snail mail address or phone number, let me know.
>
> Gary
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, ANDREW AIREY <andyairey@...> wrote:
>
>> I know that everything these days is made in
>> china,india,or eastern europe but haven't you got a
>> mate with access to a reasonably sized lathe(ideally
>> working on the night shift).Usual fee was
>> traditionally a packet of fags(cigarettes to our
>> american cousins)but I suppose that in these more pc
>> times the currency has changed.If you can wait a
>> couple of months I should have my lathe installed by
>> then and it will take 1.75" bar up the mandrel
>> cheers
>> Andy Airey
>>
>>
>>
>> ___________________________________________________________
>> Now you can scan emails quickly with a reading pane. Get the new
>>
> Yahoo! Mail.http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/nowyoucan.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Or you might find someone who makes beads Ran across a lady today who
operates the business "the bead chick" and yes, she makes her own
beads. I naturally told her about looking for parrel beads. Her first
question was whether glass beads would do . . . . Upon being given an
emphatic negative, she said she also makes polymer beads of any size
and can do round beads. Inquirites can be directed to
beadchick@.... Ner name is Peggy Ward. If anyone wants her
snail mail address or phone number, let me know.

Gary

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, ANDREW AIREY <andyairey@...> wrote:
>
> I know that everything these days is made in
> china,india,or eastern europe but haven't you got a
> mate with access to a reasonably sized lathe(ideally
> working on the night shift).Usual fee was
> traditionally a packet of fags(cigarettes to our
> american cousins)but I suppose that in these more pc
> times the currency has changed.If you can wait a
> couple of months I should have my lathe installed by
> then and it will take 1.75" bar up the mandrel
> cheers
> Andy Airey
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> Now you can scan emails quickly with a reading pane. Get the new
Yahoo! Mail.http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/nowyoucan.html
>

I know that everything these days is made in
china,india,or eastern europe but haven't you got a
mate with access to a reasonably sized lathe(ideally
working on the night shift).Usual fee was
traditionally a packet of fags(cigarettes to our
american cousins)but I suppose that in these more pc
times the currency has changed.If you can wait a
couple of months I should have my lathe installed by
then and it will take 1.75" bar up the mandrel
cheers
Andy Airey

___________________________________________________________
Now you can scan emails quickly with a reading pane. Get the new Yahoo! Mail.http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/nowyoucan.html

Chuck of Duckworks Magazine sells proper wood Parrel Beads at a very modest
price.

Alvan.

I did a water absorption test once:

Samples of self-sealed, Titan Foam'n'Fill and soft Nomafoam
(that Funoodle stuff) each weighing 11grams
were subjected to continuous, forced submersion in cold,
fresh, water for a period of 7 days. After surface
drying, both again, 11gm.

Whatever, one needs a closed cell foam. The PU's are about the
cheapest serious version.
Mark

On Sep 22, 2006, at 8:04 PM, Kristine Bennett wrote:

> Well seeing how I have worked with pour foam and
> sprayed on foam I can attest to the fact they both
> like water!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Keep in mind also what Coast Guard Regs requier becouse that is what
a Insurance Co. will requier when it comes to liability. 2# Qu.Ft.
foam as in the two part pour type. If you use other types you may not
be covered even in your garage.

Jon

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mikeboatman@...> wrote:
>
> What we have to worry about in Au, is that our new builders plate
legislation says that the foam must not react with oil or
fuel/gas/petrol. The fear is that there is usually fuel in the water
after a capsize. After spilling some turps on styrofoam, I know that
they mean.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark Albanese
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 11:48 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: foam vs bubblewrap
>
>
> I've been a fan of the two part polyurethane pour-in foams.
That's
> cheaper than the spray. They add to the structure, are impervious
to
> oil and gas, don't dribble their particles around, and won't soak
up
> water for a very long time. From the experience with my much
> neglected Windsprint, I have to agree with Jon & Wanda that the
> chance of rot inside a well-filled chamber is pretty low. At two
> pounds per cubic foot, they add little to the weight.
>
> When I took the boat for the safety inspection and mentioned to
the
> officer that inside the ends was solid foam, he gave me a
comforting,
> very positive nod.
>
> Mark
>
> On Sep 22, 2006, at 9:01 AM, Allan Pickman wrote:
>
> > I would use neither bubblewrap or spray foam.
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Well seeing how I have worked with pour foam and
sprayed on foam I can attest to the fact they both
like water! With the stuff you have a hard sponge.
Having done boat repair over the years I have seen a
lot of flotation foam soaked with water in a "sealed"
compartment.

The bubble wrap has voids around the bubbles and that
area would then fill with water. I would guess that
about 40% of you buble wrap would be flotation. Seeing
how that is about what the bubbles take up in a sheet
of the sruff.

A better idea would be fill your voids with Foamular
or Dow blue foam and glue them to the hull with one of
the polyurethane glues seeing how they will not attack
the polystyrine foams. Then fill the small voids that
are left and finsh glueing the foam in at a time. Also
when you do that use small pours! Like half a cup at a
time and let the foam cool before adding more to it.

The polyurthane pour foam is made by an exoturmic
action and it leaves tiny holes in the foam cell walls
that let it soak up water or what ever.

I know Boston Waler clames there foam does not absorb
water..... But it does. At least as of 5 to 6 years
ago. That is why some of them sit lower in the water
then others.

A number of years ago in Professional Boatbuilder
there was a very good feature on flotation foams. They
went as far as to cut out the bottoms of a number of
boat to remove the foam and most all of them failed,
do to being waterloged. But mind you what had been use
was U.S.C.G. approved.

The best thing you can try is to seal the flotation
tank with epoxy and cloth before you add the foam and
seal the lid the same way. Then bed the lid in epoxy
putty.

Wood and polyester resin will pass water vapor and
it's hard to get around.

You know you could fill your voids with caped pop
bottles just don't poke them with any nails.

I hope this is of some help.

Blessings Kristine

__________________________________________________
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What we have to worry about in Au, is that our new builders plate legislation says that the foam must not react with oil or fuel/gas/petrol. The fear is that there is usually fuel in the water after a capsize. After spilling some turps on styrofoam, I know that they mean.

----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Albanese
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 11:48 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: foam vs bubblewrap

I've been a fan of the two part polyurethane pour-in foams. That's
cheaper than the spray. They add to the structure, are impervious to
oil and gas, don't dribble their particles around, and won't soak up
water for a very long time. From the experience with my much
neglected Windsprint, I have to agree with Jon & Wanda that the
chance of rot inside a well-filled chamber is pretty low. At two
pounds per cubic foot, they add little to the weight.

When I took the boat for the safety inspection and mentioned to the
officer that inside the ends was solid foam, he gave me a comforting,
very positive nod.

Mark

On Sep 22, 2006, at 9:01 AM, Allan Pickman wrote:

> I would use neither bubblewrap or spray foam.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I've been a fan of the two part polyurethane pour-in foams. That's
cheaper than the spray. They add to the structure, are impervious to
oil and gas, don't dribble their particles around, and won't soak up
water for a very long time. From the experience with my much
neglected Windsprint, I have to agree with Jon & Wanda that the
chance of rot inside a well-filled chamber is pretty low. At two
pounds per cubic foot, they add little to the weight.

When I took the boat for the safety inspection and mentioned to the
officer that inside the ends was solid foam, he gave me a comforting,
very positive nod.

Mark

On Sep 22, 2006, at 9:01 AM, Allan Pickman wrote:

> I would use neither bubblewrap or spray foam.

"Beadboard" styrofoam is made up of little beads that look like they are
stuck together and is generally white. It will absorb water but the
better qualities do a good job of keeping water out for a while but if
left in the water over a period of time will continue to absorb. Most of
it weighs about one pound per cubic foot. The extruded styro. often is a
color. Dow styrofoam, that I know, of is blue and is generally heaver in
the area of 1 1/2 lb to 2 lb per cf. and is relatively hard and virtually
does not absorb any water and is even a good vapor barrier. I am not an
expert and have not kept up with recent developments but all of the above
should still be a good guide or rule of thumb. The last time I bought
bead board which was about three years ago the cost in large pieces but
cut to a thickness was about a $1.85 per cubic foot. Shipping is very
expensive terms of weight to volume. Keep in mind that chemicals in many
materials will readily dissolve it very quickly or over a period of time.
Be very careful.

On Sat, 23 Sep 2006 00:08:02 -0000 "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@...>
writes:
Filling a chamber with foam of the two part mix and pour type works
well and best if wood is encapsolated first. There are two kinds of
spray foam one is comercaly done on steel and glass boats as well as
homes now a days. The comercal type works good but is spendy. The one
part in a can from HD or Lows is different and like a sponge. Pour
and spray foams work becouse they seal out air transfer and fill all
voids so there is no open space for air to circulate and moisture to
condensate. They create a enviroment that steel will not rust and
wood will not rot. Bubble wrap ,slab foam and beach balls don't fill
the whole space and so air can circulate and water condensate. Foam
also helps stiffen the chamber wall if inpacted.

Jon

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Allan Pickman <alpickman@...> wrote:
>
> I would use neither bubblewrap or spray foam. I have doubts about
the durability of bubble wrap, and my understanding is that moat
spray-in foam tends soak up water like a sponge. I believe the most
accepted solution is extruded polystyrene planks, which are sold for
foundation insulation (the pink or blue boards sold in 2' x 8' panels
at building supply places in various thicknesses).
>
> It can easily by cut to shape with a utility knife or a saw.
>
> In a flotation chamber in a wood boat I would cut some thin battens
to keep an air space between the foam and the wood on all sides, and
install a deck plate down low that can be used to air out the space
when not on the water, and to allow you to inspect for water
accumulation, and sponge out if necessary.
>
> Any flotation chamber in a wood boat, whether filled with foam or
not, is likely to get moisture in it, and provide a place for rot to
start. Ventilation is key, as long as it can be done without
compromising buoyancy.
>
> Some classes of racing dinghy require foam flotation inside air
flotation chambers (belts and suspenders), and this is what is
recommended (racing dinghies capsize a lot, and tend to run into each
other occasionally). Last year I put 500 pounds worth of flotation
(8+ cubic feet) in my fiberglass Thistle this way, and haven't had
any problems.
>
> Good luck
>
> Allan
> in the hills.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Oooh -- I DO like the idea of Rosary beads -- maybe they would help me
avoid capsize!

I just bought wood beads at Michaels. They break occasionally, but are
cheap to replace.

Patrick

Bruce Hallman wrote:

> On 9/22/06, GarthAB wrote:
>
>
>> get some nice smooth hard plastic beads made for the purpose. Anyone
>> know of a place to buy them?
>>
>> Garth
>>
>
> I just did a ebay search on 'large beads' and found many interesting
> options, either for raw beads, or for beads in a necklace that could
> be salvaged. I had to smile when thinking of recycling the beads
> from a Rosary.
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Matt:

Are you anywhere near North Carolina? If so, we could match our sails.

Patrick

Matthew Lawson wrote:

> My two bits re: windsprint: I've had no problems with offset
> daggerboard, even running aground. I would not recommend lee board(s).
>
> I had the same concerns as Neil Sims about the balanced lug, and wanted
> to be able to stow all spars in the boat. Bolger says (paraphrase from
> memory, in 103 Small Boat Rigs) that the sprit sail with a sprit boom
> is the most powerful sail possible on the shortest length of spars (his
> cartoon for this rig is of a canoe with a sheet--not a good example).
> I re-calculated balance (moved mast step forward ~4") and built that
> rig (83 sf sail area). I've generally been pleased with performance,
> but don't have a balanced lug windsprint to sail against. I use
> inflatable sailboat bow bags for flotation, bow and stern, and made
> some other modifications that help me also use windsprint as a fly-
> fishing drift boat. I keep meaning to take and post some pictures.
>
> -Matt Lawson
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Graeme:

I've never felt a need for a stronger dagger board for my Windsprint. On
the other hand, I have broken both the rudder stock and the rudder
blade, so I wouldn't be averse to thicker plywood for those. In
fairness, Bolger specifies that the rudder and stock be laminated from
two 1/4" plywood pieces, which would probably be stronger than the 1/2"
AC plywood I used. You could get a better foil shape with thicker
blades, but I am inclined to think the additional lift would be
unnoticeable. Might give an important psychological lift, though.

I have always enjoyed the flexing of the bottom of the boat as it slides
over waves, so I have never felt that the 1/4" bottom was inadequate. If
I did think the bottom was too flexible, I'd be more inclined to stiffen
the bottom skids than to thicken the whole bottom. One of the joys of
this boat is the way that it ghosts along in no discernible breeze. I
think that would be lost if you make it too heavy.

Patrick

graeme19121984 wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I've received pictures from the SWBANS builder of the Windsprint
> Trimaran that was checked out by PCB...
>
> As well as suggesting a heavier bottom Ryerson also strongly suggests
> going to 3/4" or even 1" for the daggerboard. I think he also means
> this would be best for the monohull too (they've built lots of them
> there!). I think apart from extra strength the thicker board should be
> able to be shaped into a better foil that ought perform better to
> windward.

Filling a chamber with foam of the two part mix and pour type works
well and best if wood is encapsolated first. There are two kinds of
spray foam one is comercaly done on steel and glass boats as well as
homes now a days. The comercal type works good but is spendy. The one
part in a can from HD or Lows is different and like a sponge. Pour
and spray foams work becouse they seal out air transfer and fill all
voids so there is no open space for air to circulate and moisture to
condensate. They create a enviroment that steel will not rust and
wood will not rot. Bubble wrap ,slab foam and beach balls don't fill
the whole space and so air can circulate and water condensate. Foam
also helps stiffen the chamber wall if inpacted.

Jon

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Allan Pickman <alpickman@...> wrote:
>
> I would use neither bubblewrap or spray foam. I have doubts about
the durability of bubble wrap, and my understanding is that moat
spray-in foam tends soak up water like a sponge. I believe the most
accepted solution is extruded polystyrene planks, which are sold for
foundation insulation (the pink or blue boards sold in 2' x 8' panels
at building supply places in various thicknesses).
>
> It can easily by cut to shape with a utility knife or a saw.
>
> In a flotation chamber in a wood boat I would cut some thin battens
to keep an air space between the foam and the wood on all sides, and
install a deck plate down low that can be used to air out the space
when not on the water, and to allow you to inspect for water
accumulation, and sponge out if necessary.
>
> Any flotation chamber in a wood boat, whether filled with foam or
not, is likely to get moisture in it, and provide a place for rot to
start. Ventilation is key, as long as it can be done without
compromising buoyancy.
>
> Some classes of racing dinghy require foam flotation inside air
flotation chambers (belts and suspenders), and this is what is
recommended (racing dinghies capsize a lot, and tend to run into each
other occasionally). Last year I put 500 pounds worth of flotation
(8+ cubic feet) in my fiberglass Thistle this way, and haven't had
any problems.
>
> Good luck
>
> Allan
> in the hills.

Such stores often also have turned spherical hardwood knobs, flat on one side, that would make very good parrel beads. Drill out a center hole, varnish, oil or tar to taste, and string them up. Traditional, functional, and will age more gracefully than any plastic. Also available in a variety of sizes, some bigger than any cabbies beaded seat cushion.

Not a plug, but another chain of craft stores in my corner of the US is E. C. Moore (or something like that). Go to which ever is closer.

Allan
in the hills

---- gbship <gbship@...> wrote:

> Try the craft section of Jo-Anne Fabrics or any craft store (Do you
> have the Michaels chain in NY?) I found multi-colored plastic beads
> with a 1/4-inch hole.
>
> I find an embarrassing large amount of "boat" supplies during my
> wife's forays to Jo-Anne's plastic storage boces, neat zippered mesh
> bags to hold knick-knacks, marine vinyl, waterproof nylon, etc. The
> tool box on Oaracle is a plastic craft organizer from Jo-Anne's,
> boutht on one of their frequent 50% off sales . . .
>
> Gary
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "GarthAB" <garth@...> wrote:
> >
> > I have a parrel on the yard of my Cormorant, but the "beads" on it
> are
> > just 1.5" lengths of closet pole cut and sanded to something between
> > cylindrical and spherical -- and my drilling aim was not very good,
> > because most of the holes for the 1/4" rope to pass through are not
> on
> > center. The thing works -- it goes up the mast okay -- but I'd like
> to
> > get some nice smooth hard plastic beads made for the purpose. Anyone
> > know of a place to buy them?
> >
> > Garth
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@> wrote:
> > >
> > > It is definitely preferable (particularly when reefed!) to have a
> mast
> > > parrel (a short loop of cord from the yard around the mast). To
> avoid
> > > binding on the way up or down, it is handy to string some large
> > beads on
> > > the cord. Might not hurt to have a parrel on the boom, too,
> though I
> > > generally pull the downhaul tight with the boom close to the
> cleat when
> > > I reef, so that one is not as important.
> > >
> > > Bolger discusses the parrel on pages 44 and 45 of 100 Small Boat
> Rigs,
> > > in the section on dipping lug rigs. He maintains that the parrel
> is
> > > mainly to keep the sail from kiting out when raising and lowering,
> > but I
> > > find it essential for keeping the sail from kiting out while
> sailing
> > any
> > > time the yard is not pulled up to the top of the mast. Bolger
> comments
> > > that the parrel should be loose, but I think it is more effective
> if it
> > > is not too loose, and with beads it does not bind so there is no
> need
> > > for looseness. He shows parrels for both boom and yard for the
> balanced
> > > lug rig (what the Windsprint has) in the cartoon on page 49, but
> > > mentions that the boom parrel is not necessary.
> > >
> > > Patrick
> > >
> > > nsimms wrote:
> > > > I'm considering knocking together a Windsprint, and have a
> question
> > > > for those who have sailed in one.
> > > >
> > > > John Bell mentions on his webpage
> > > > (http://www.mindspring.com/~jmbell/wsmain.htm)that the yard on
> his
> > > > pulls away from the mast up to a foot when on starboard tack,
> causing
> > > > him performance problems to windward. Is this typical, or was he
> > > > likely doing something wrong?
> > > >
> > > > I would be looking for a bit more precision in a rig that that,
> and am
> > > > hoping to find out if this is a general problem with this
> boat/rig, or
> > > > an anomoly.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks!
> > > >
> > > > Neil S.
> > > >
> > > > P.S. Thanks to Patrick and others for the discussion re:
> Windsprint
> > > > flotation. I will definitely close in bow and stern if I build
> one.
> > > > I'm eagerly awaiting a report from Patrick re: drain holes in
> the
> > > > centerboard trunk!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
> flogging
> > dead horses
> > > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
> Fred'
> > posts
> > > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
> away
> > > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-
>subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Try the craft section of Jo-Anne Fabrics or any craft store (Do you
have the Michaels chain in NY?) I found multi-colored plastic beads
with a 1/4-inch hole.

I find an embarrassing large amount of "boat" supplies during my
wife's forays to Jo-Anne's plastic storage boces, neat zippered mesh
bags to hold knick-knacks, marine vinyl, waterproof nylon, etc. The
tool box on Oaracle is a plastic craft organizer from Jo-Anne's,
boutht on one of their frequent 50% off sales . . .

Gary

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "GarthAB" <garth@...> wrote:
>
> I have a parrel on the yard of my Cormorant, but the "beads" on it
are
> just 1.5" lengths of closet pole cut and sanded to something between
> cylindrical and spherical -- and my drilling aim was not very good,
> because most of the holes for the 1/4" rope to pass through are not
on
> center. The thing works -- it goes up the mast okay -- but I'd like
to
> get some nice smooth hard plastic beads made for the purpose. Anyone
> know of a place to buy them?
>
> Garth
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@> wrote:
> >
> > It is definitely preferable (particularly when reefed!) to have a
mast
> > parrel (a short loop of cord from the yard around the mast). To
avoid
> > binding on the way up or down, it is handy to string some large
> beads on
> > the cord. Might not hurt to have a parrel on the boom, too,
though I
> > generally pull the downhaul tight with the boom close to the
cleat when
> > I reef, so that one is not as important.
> >
> > Bolger discusses the parrel on pages 44 and 45 of 100 Small Boat
Rigs,
> > in the section on dipping lug rigs. He maintains that the parrel
is
> > mainly to keep the sail from kiting out when raising and lowering,
> but I
> > find it essential for keeping the sail from kiting out while
sailing
> any
> > time the yard is not pulled up to the top of the mast. Bolger
comments
> > that the parrel should be loose, but I think it is more effective
if it
> > is not too loose, and with beads it does not bind so there is no
need
> > for looseness. He shows parrels for both boom and yard for the
balanced
> > lug rig (what the Windsprint has) in the cartoon on page 49, but
> > mentions that the boom parrel is not necessary.
> >
> > Patrick
> >
> > nsimms wrote:
> > > I'm considering knocking together a Windsprint, and have a
question
> > > for those who have sailed in one.
> > >
> > > John Bell mentions on his webpage
> > > (http://www.mindspring.com/~jmbell/wsmain.htm)that the yard on
his
> > > pulls away from the mast up to a foot when on starboard tack,
causing
> > > him performance problems to windward. Is this typical, or was he
> > > likely doing something wrong?
> > >
> > > I would be looking for a bit more precision in a rig that that,
and am
> > > hoping to find out if this is a general problem with this
boat/rig, or
> > > an anomoly.
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > Neil S.
> > >
> > > P.S. Thanks to Patrick and others for the discussion re:
Windsprint
> > > flotation. I will definitely close in bow and stern if I build
one.
> > > I'm eagerly awaiting a report from Patrick re: drain holes in
the
> > > centerboard trunk!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
flogging
> dead horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
Fred'
> posts
> > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip
away
> > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-
subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>

I used plastic pipe connectors from the hardware
store. Just pick a diameter that is slightly larger
than your hoops, buy enough to go around the mast and
you're in business. Mine work just fine, for a few
cents each.

K.I.S.S. all the way.

--- Mark Balogh <mark@...> wrote:

>

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/misc/parrels/index.htm

>
> Mark
>
>
> > On 9/22/06, GarthAB wrote:
> >
> > > get some nice smooth hard plastic beads made
> for the purpose. Anyone
> > > know of a place to buy them?
> > >
> > > Garth
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/misc/parrels/index.htm

Mark

> On 9/22/06, GarthAB wrote:
>
> > get some nice smooth hard plastic beads made for the purpose. Anyone
> > know of a place to buy them?
> >
> > Garth

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On 9/22/06, GarthAB wrote:

> get some nice smooth hard plastic beads made for the purpose. Anyone
> know of a place to buy them?
>
> Garth

I just did a ebay search on 'large beads' and found many interesting
options, either for raw beads, or for beads in a necklace that could
be salvaged. I had to smile when thinking of recycling the beads
from a Rosary.

I have a parrel on the yard of my Cormorant, but the "beads" on it are
just 1.5" lengths of closet pole cut and sanded to something between
cylindrical and spherical -- and my drilling aim was not very good,
because most of the holes for the 1/4" rope to pass through are not on
center. The thing works -- it goes up the mast okay -- but I'd like to
get some nice smooth hard plastic beads made for the purpose. Anyone
know of a place to buy them?

Garth

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@...> wrote:
>
> It is definitely preferable (particularly when reefed!) to have a mast
> parrel (a short loop of cord from the yard around the mast). To avoid
> binding on the way up or down, it is handy to string some large
beads on
> the cord. Might not hurt to have a parrel on the boom, too, though I
> generally pull the downhaul tight with the boom close to the cleat when
> I reef, so that one is not as important.
>
> Bolger discusses the parrel on pages 44 and 45 of 100 Small Boat Rigs,
> in the section on dipping lug rigs. He maintains that the parrel is
> mainly to keep the sail from kiting out when raising and lowering,
but I
> find it essential for keeping the sail from kiting out while sailing
any
> time the yard is not pulled up to the top of the mast. Bolger comments
> that the parrel should be loose, but I think it is more effective if it
> is not too loose, and with beads it does not bind so there is no need
> for looseness. He shows parrels for both boom and yard for the balanced
> lug rig (what the Windsprint has) in the cartoon on page 49, but
> mentions that the boom parrel is not necessary.
>
> Patrick
>
> nsimms wrote:
> > I'm considering knocking together a Windsprint, and have a question
> > for those who have sailed in one.
> >
> > John Bell mentions on his webpage
> > (http://www.mindspring.com/~jmbell/wsmain.htm)that the yard on his
> > pulls away from the mast up to a foot when on starboard tack, causing
> > him performance problems to windward. Is this typical, or was he
> > likely doing something wrong?
> >
> > I would be looking for a bit more precision in a rig that that, and am
> > hoping to find out if this is a general problem with this boat/rig, or
> > an anomoly.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Neil S.
> >
> > P.S. Thanks to Patrick and others for the discussion re: Windsprint
> > flotation. I will definitely close in bow and stern if I build one.
> > I'm eagerly awaiting a report from Patrick re: drain holes in the
> > centerboard trunk!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging
dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

I would use neither bubblewrap or spray foam. I have doubts about the durability of bubble wrap, and my understanding is that moat spray-in foam tends soak up water like a sponge. I believe the most accepted solution is extruded polystyrene planks, which are sold for foundation insulation (the pink or blue boards sold in 2' x 8' panels at building supply places in various thicknesses).

It can easily by cut to shape with a utility knife or a saw.

In a flotation chamber in a wood boat I would cut some thin battens to keep an air space between the foam and the wood on all sides, and install a deck plate down low that can be used to air out the space when not on the water, and to allow you to inspect for water accumulation, and sponge out if necessary.

Any flotation chamber in a wood boat, whether filled with foam or not, is likely to get moisture in it, and provide a place for rot to start. Ventilation is key, as long as it can be done without compromising buoyancy.

Some classes of racing dinghy require foam flotation inside air flotation chambers (belts and suspenders), and this is what is recommended (racing dinghies capsize a lot, and tend to run into each other occasionally). Last year I put 500 pounds worth of flotation (8+ cubic feet) in my fiberglass Thistle this way, and haven't had any problems.

Good luck

Allan
in the hills.

---- Steven DAntonio <sdantonio93@...> wrote:

> Any thoughts on the use of bubblewrap in a flotation compartment of a
> boat? I have heard some people complain about water getting trapped
> betweent the wood and the foam in poured foam compartments. On the
> other hand, if your compartment is build right then you shouldn't be
> getting water in it in the first place. Also, which would offer more
> boyancy?
>
> Steven
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Foam is much more efficient from a buoyancy standpoint. The bubbles
in bubble wrap fill less than half the volume of a given space,
assuming they stay intact. That means that a cubic foot of bubble
wrap will have something less than 32 lbs of buoyancy vs. about 62
lbs for foam.

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <p_hardy@...> wrote:
>
> One big problem with bubblewrap is that its not very durable and
as the
> bubbles get popped, your flotation decreases. I don't see this as
a
> realistic method of providing flotation that you can depend on.
>
> Paul H.
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Steven DAntonio" <sdantonio93@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Any thoughts on the use of bubblewrap in a flotation compartment
of a
> > boat? I have heard some people complain about water getting
trapped
> > betweent the wood and the foam in poured foam compartments. On
the
> > other hand, if your compartment is build right then you
shouldn't be
> > getting water in it in the first place. Also, which would offer
more
> > boyancy?
> >
> > Steven
> >
>

One big problem with bubblewrap is that its not very durable and as the
bubbles get popped, your flotation decreases. I don't see this as a
realistic method of providing flotation that you can depend on.

Paul H.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Steven DAntonio" <sdantonio93@...>
wrote:

>
> Any thoughts on the use of bubblewrap in a flotation compartment of a
> boat? I have heard some people complain about water getting trapped
> betweent the wood and the foam in poured foam compartments. On the
> other hand, if your compartment is build right then you shouldn't be
> getting water in it in the first place. Also, which would offer more
> boyancy?
>
> Steven
>

Any thoughts on the use of bubblewrap in a flotation compartment of a
boat? I have heard some people complain about water getting trapped
betweent the wood and the foam in poured foam compartments. On the
other hand, if your compartment is build right then you shouldn't be
getting water in it in the first place. Also, which would offer more
boyancy?

Steven

My two bits re: windsprint: I've had no problems with offset
daggerboard, even running aground. I would not recommend lee board(s).

I had the same concerns as Neil Sims about the balanced lug, and wanted
to be able to stow all spars in the boat. Bolger says (paraphrase from
memory, in 103 Small Boat Rigs) that the sprit sail with a sprit boom
is the most powerful sail possible on the shortest length of spars (his
cartoon for this rig is of a canoe with a sheet--not a good example).
I re-calculated balance (moved mast step forward ~4") and built that
rig (83 sf sail area). I've generally been pleased with performance,
but don't have a balanced lug windsprint to sail against. I use
inflatable sailboat bow bags for flotation, bow and stern, and made
some other modifications that help me also use windsprint as a fly-
fishing drift boat. I keep meaning to take and post some pictures.

-Matt Lawson

Hi,

I've received pictures from the SWBANS builder of the Windsprint
Trimaran that was checked out by PCB. Ryerson decided not to make the
lines plan available, but very kindly has provided details and
wonderful pictures. The completed boat looks great and the build
details look fine. A little simple trial and adjustment will have to be
done as the tri bits are built.

As well as suggesting a heavier bottom Ryerson also strongly suggests
going to 3/4" or even 1" for the daggerboard. I think he also means
this would be best for the monohull too (they've built lots of them
there!). I think apart from extra strength the thicker board should be
able to be shaped into a better foil that ought perform better to
windward.

The tri looks good and is said to perform well - fast, stable and sweet
handling. It will pound when pushed, and though as fast or faster than
the mono it won't achieve the same speed as other trimarans as the bow
wave stops it taking off. This has me thinking that the Zephyr with its
6 to 1 L/B fitted out in the same way as Windsprint Tri might really
get up and go. The trouble is the extra stresses may lead to many
breakeages. The Tri configuration makes for relaxed and stable sailing
and cruising whenever there is the slightest bit of wind, and presents
no problems as long as reefing is done appropriately. A few options
were tried, and the last was to use simple lashings to attach the
various bits. It is quickly assembled and easy to transport. About an
extra two and a half plywood sheets and two 12' 2"x4"s, and some cord.
The Vee bottom of the amas allows some progress to windward with the
board up, I'm told.

Graeme

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Steven DAntonio" <sdantonio93@...>
wrote:

>
> I have also heard windsprint owners say that they probably go with a
> leeboard rather than a daggerboard if they had to build it all over
> again. Less damage if you run aground or hit a submerged log, rock
> or scuba diver.
>
> Steven

I have also heard windsprint owners say that they probably go with a
leeboard rather than a daggerboard if they had to build it all over
again. Less damage if you run aground or hit a submerged log, rock
or scuba diver.

Steven

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "nsimms" <nsimms@...> wrote:
>
> I'm considering knocking together a Windsprint, and have a question
> for those who have sailed in one.
>
> John Bell mentions on his webpage
> (http://www.mindspring.com/~jmbell/wsmain.htm)that the yard on his
> pulls away from the mast up to a foot when on starboard tack, causing
> him performance problems to windward. Is this typical, or was he
> likely doing something wrong?
>
> I would be looking for a bit more precision in a rig that that, and am
> hoping to find out if this is a general problem with this boat/rig, or
> an anomoly.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Neil S.
>
> P.S. Thanks to Patrick and others for the discussion re: Windsprint
> flotation. I will definitely close in bow and stern if I build one.
> I'm eagerly awaiting a report from Patrick re: drain holes in the
> centerboard trunk!
>

Thanks, guys, sounds like a parrel will do the trick. After 40 years
of marconi (and a few lateen) rigs, I'm still learning about rigs with
yards!

I think I'll take a shot at a Windsprint this winter...

Neil S.

It is definitely preferable (particularly when reefed!) to have a mast
parrel (a short loop of cord from the yard around the mast). To avoid
binding on the way up or down, it is handy to string some large beads on
the cord. Might not hurt to have a parrel on the boom, too, though I
generally pull the downhaul tight with the boom close to the cleat when
I reef, so that one is not as important.

Bolger discusses the parrel on pages 44 and 45 of 100 Small Boat Rigs,
in the section on dipping lug rigs. He maintains that the parrel is
mainly to keep the sail from kiting out when raising and lowering, but I
find it essential for keeping the sail from kiting out while sailing any
time the yard is not pulled up to the top of the mast. Bolger comments
that the parrel should be loose, but I think it is more effective if it
is not too loose, and with beads it does not bind so there is no need
for looseness. He shows parrels for both boom and yard for the balanced
lug rig (what the Windsprint has) in the cartoon on page 49, but
mentions that the boom parrel is not necessary.

Patrick

nsimms wrote:

> I'm considering knocking together a Windsprint, and have a question
> for those who have sailed in one.
>
> John Bell mentions on his webpage
> (http://www.mindspring.com/~jmbell/wsmain.htm)that the yard on his
> pulls away from the mast up to a foot when on starboard tack, causing
> him performance problems to windward. Is this typical, or was he
> likely doing something wrong?
>
> I would be looking for a bit more precision in a rig that that, and am
> hoping to find out if this is a general problem with this boat/rig, or
> an anomoly.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Neil S.
>
> P.S. Thanks to Patrick and others for the discussion re: Windsprint
> flotation. I will definitely close in bow and stern if I build one.
> I'm eagerly awaiting a report from Patrick re: drain holes in the
> centerboard trunk!
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

I wound up putting a parrel on the yard that really helped. The boat was really great, BTW.

John Bell

-----Original Message-----

>From: nsimms <nsimms@...>
>Sent: Sep 20, 2006 10:52 AM
>To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [bolger] Question for Windsprint owners/sailors re: sailing rig
>
>I'm considering knocking together a Windsprint, and have a question
>for those who have sailed in one.
>
>John Bell mentions on his webpage
>(http://www.mindspring.com/~jmbell/wsmain.htm)that the yard on his
>pulls away from the mast up to a foot when on starboard tack, causing
>him performance problems to windward. Is this typical, or was he
>likely doing something wrong?
>
>I would be looking for a bit more precision in a rig that that, and am
>hoping to find out if this is a general problem with this boat/rig, or
>an anomoly.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Neil S.
>
>P.S. Thanks to Patrick and others for the discussion re: Windsprint
>flotation. I will definitely close in bow and stern if I build one.
>I'm eagerly awaiting a report from Patrick re: drain holes in the
>centerboard trunk!
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

I'm considering knocking together a Windsprint, and have a question
for those who have sailed in one.

John Bell mentions on his webpage
(http://www.mindspring.com/~jmbell/wsmain.htm)that the yard on his
pulls away from the mast up to a foot when on starboard tack, causing
him performance problems to windward. Is this typical, or was he
likely doing something wrong?

I would be looking for a bit more precision in a rig that that, and am
hoping to find out if this is a general problem with this boat/rig, or
an anomoly.

Thanks!

Neil S.

P.S. Thanks to Patrick and others for the discussion re: Windsprint
flotation. I will definitely close in bow and stern if I build one.
I'm eagerly awaiting a report from Patrick re: drain holes in the
centerboard trunk!