Re: [bolger] Re: swim ladder line
What can I say? Stradivarius worked in mountain cedar
and catgut, Michelangelo worked in Carrera marble,
Rembrandt in oils. Bungee cord is my metier. Too
much is never enough. Sam
--- ravenouspi <ravenous@...> wrote:
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and catgut, Michelangelo worked in Carrera marble,
Rembrandt in oils. Bungee cord is my metier. Too
much is never enough. Sam
--- ravenouspi <ravenous@...> wrote:
> Sam,__________________________________________________
> You say you might use bungee cords?
> That doesn't sound like you!
>
> Dianne and I had a little laugh at your expense.
> But we are still using most of your bungee cord
> solutions,
> because they simply work well.
>
> For the group, Sam Glasscock can more things with
> bungee cords than Norm Abram can do with his whole
> Yankee Workshop.
>
> It's a gift.
>
> Thanks as always for the help Sam.
> We're taking some new photos next
> week when I get all the wiring hidden
> in plastic sheathing. We are in the home
> stretch now, and hoping to cruise on the next
> full moon.
> Rhett & Dianne
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock
> <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
> >
> > Rhett, I would consider using stainless steel
> cable,
> > like steering cable or wire rigging. You could
> run it
> > through rubber or plastic hose, or even hollow
> braid
> > rope, to make it easier on the hands. I might use
> > bungee cord retractors to pull it into the motor
> well
> > as the ladder is swung up. I am very interested
> to
> > see how your refit comes out. Sam
> >
>
>
>
>
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Sam,
You say you might use bungee cords?
That doesn't sound like you!
Dianne and I had a little laugh at your expense.
But we are still using most of your bungee cord solutions,
because they simply work well.
For the group, Sam Glasscock can more things with
bungee cords than Norm Abram can do with his whole
Yankee Workshop.
It's a gift.
Thanks as always for the help Sam.
We're taking some new photos next
week when I get all the wiring hidden
in plastic sheathing. We are in the home
stretch now, and hoping to cruise on the next
full moon.
Rhett & Dianne
You say you might use bungee cords?
That doesn't sound like you!
Dianne and I had a little laugh at your expense.
But we are still using most of your bungee cord solutions,
because they simply work well.
For the group, Sam Glasscock can more things with
bungee cords than Norm Abram can do with his whole
Yankee Workshop.
It's a gift.
Thanks as always for the help Sam.
We're taking some new photos next
week when I get all the wiring hidden
in plastic sheathing. We are in the home
stretch now, and hoping to cruise on the next
full moon.
Rhett & Dianne
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
>
> Rhett, I would consider using stainless steel cable,
> like steering cable or wire rigging. You could run it
> through rubber or plastic hose, or even hollow braid
> rope, to make it easier on the hands. I might use
> bungee cord retractors to pull it into the motor well
> as the ladder is swung up. I am very interested to
> see how your refit comes out. Sam
>
Rhett, I would consider using stainless steel cable,
like steering cable or wire rigging. You could run it
through rubber or plastic hose, or even hollow braid
rope, to make it easier on the hands. I might use
bungee cord retractors to pull it into the motor well
as the ladder is swung up. I am very interested to
see how your refit comes out. Sam
--- ravenouspi <ravenous@...> wrote:
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
like steering cable or wire rigging. You could run it
through rubber or plastic hose, or even hollow braid
rope, to make it easier on the hands. I might use
bungee cord retractors to pull it into the motor well
as the ladder is swung up. I am very interested to
see how your refit comes out. Sam
--- ravenouspi <ravenous@...> wrote:
> Okay,__________________________________________________
> The rejuvenation of the Topaz is going well (though
> it is easily
> taking 4 times the time we anticipated).
> The swim ladder was the real head scratcher, and
> being one who prefers
> to "just follow the plans" I found myself in deep
> water. But Dianne
> and I decided that having the working swim ladder
> was a real safety
> issue, and therefore not optional. I am rather
> large (280lbs) and the
> first time I tried to climb aboard using my new
> commercial plastic
> aluminum over the side ladder, both of the fold down
> stand-offs that
> hold the bottom of the ladder away from the sides,
> just bent and
> folded. One of the plastic steps slipped down an
> inch or so. And I
> still had to struggle mightily to get aboard. Dianne
> too has
> difficulty getting aboard, though her leg length,
> not her weight
> inhibits her.
> So we set about building the swim ladder hinted at
> in bolger's plan.
> We built 2 inch extensions in the shape of half
> circles onto the
> sides. We didn't really want to change the lines of
> the boat, but the
> motor tilt simply would not cooperate with the
> clearance needed by the
> low ladder pivot point we chose. We wanted as much
> below water ladder
> as we could manage. Also, we wanted the ladder to
> be able to drop
> with the motor in the up or down positions (the
> ladder shown and
> mentioned in the plans is only for use when the
> motor is in the down
> position). As one might not plan well enough to
> make sure the motor
> is in the right place before falling overboard.
> So having worked out the shape, and structure
> through a series of
> assemblies Dianne raising and lowering the motor
> from inside, me
> marking wood to remove. We finally have the ladder
> design almost pat.
> However, as the second coat of epoxy dries on all
> of the now
> unassembled pieces, We are thinking about the
> support cables.
> With the ladder lowered to the appropriate level one
> is about 5 inches
> of cable away from that point of no return. While we
> believe this is
> plenty, we are clueless as to what kind of rope, or
> material we should
> use for the cables. As I mentioned before, I am
> heavy. And while I am
> on a diet, I am not betting on a Max W. type of
> transformation for
> myself before the launch. So we need something that
> won't stretch
> much. Also we think that metal cable would be a
> disaster in salt
> water, plus it is hard on the hands.
> So we figured you sailor types, men of many lines
> could help us choose
> the correct material for this endeavor. The cables
> will attach to the
> boat sides at the point most aft and high up as
> possible. Also we need
> something limber enough and strung in such a way as
> to not inhibit the
> deployment of the ladder.
> 1. Must support 300 plus pounds.
> 2. Must not stretch too much.
> 3. Must not interfere with the deployment.
> 4. Preferably something one can also use to pull on
> when boarding.
> as often as we beach the boat, or anchor out and use
> the dinghy, we
> don't plan on using this ladder as the primary
> egress. We are
> building a small straight ladder we store on the
> roof for climbing in
> and out when beached or when the boat is on the
> trailer.
> Any and all advice would be appreciated.
>
> Rhett & Dianne
> desperately needing their River Fix in
> Coastal Georgia.
>
>
>
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Strong? Low Stretch? Sounds like you're describing a halyard. 3/8" is about the smallest you want to pull hard on; smaller cuts your hands. One (of many) possible vendor is Annapolis Performance Sailing:http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d3000/e858.aspshows their low cost offerings. (They deliver well, but I mention them here because they're at the top of my favorites/boat stuff/chandlery file.)
You might also consider using webbing. It's easier to fasten. APS (and others) sell it, or you can get used seats from the auto junk yard.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
You might also consider using webbing. It's easier to fasten. APS (and others) sell it, or you can get used seats from the auto junk yard.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: ravenouspi
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 11:38 PM
Subject: [bolger] swim ladder line
Okay,
The rejuvenation of the Topaz is going well (though it is easily
taking 4 times the time we anticipated).
The swim ladder was the real head scratcher, and being one who prefers
to "just follow the plans" I found myself in deep water. But Dianne
and I decided that having the working swim ladder was a real safety
issue, and therefore not optional. I am rather large (280lbs) and the
first time I tried to climb aboard using my new commercial plastic
aluminum over the side ladder, both of the fold down stand-offs that
hold the bottom of the ladder away from the sides, just bent and
folded. One of the plastic steps slipped down an inch or so. And I
still had to struggle mightily to get aboard. Dianne too has
difficulty getting aboard, though her leg length, not her weight
inhibits her.
So we set about building the swim ladder hinted at in bolger's plan.
We built 2 inch extensions in the shape of half circles onto the
sides. We didn't really want to change the lines of the boat, but the
motor tilt simply would not cooperate with the clearance needed by the
low ladder pivot point we chose. We wanted as much below water ladder
as we could manage. Also, we wanted the ladder to be able to drop
with the motor in the up or down positions (the ladder shown and
mentioned in the plans is only for use when the motor is in the down
position). As one might not plan well enough to make sure the motor
is in the right place before falling overboard.
So having worked out the shape, and structure through a series of
assemblies Dianne raising and lowering the motor from inside, me
marking wood to remove. We finally have the ladder design almost pat.
However, as the second coat of epoxy dries on all of the now
unassembled pieces, We are thinking about the support cables.
With the ladder lowered to the appropriate level one is about 5 inches
of cable away from that point of no return. While we believe this is
plenty, we are clueless as to what kind of rope, or material we should
use for the cables. As I mentioned before, I am heavy. And while I am
on a diet, I am not betting on a Max W. type of transformation for
myself before the launch. So we need something that won't stretch
much. Also we think that metal cable would be a disaster in salt
water, plus it is hard on the hands.
So we figured you sailor types, men of many lines could help us choose
the correct material for this endeavor. The cables will attach to the
boat sides at the point most aft and high up as possible. Also we need
something limber enough and strung in such a way as to not inhibit the
deployment of the ladder.
1. Must support 300 plus pounds.
2. Must not stretch too much.
3. Must not interfere with the deployment.
4. Preferably something one can also use to pull on when boarding.
as often as we beach the boat, or anchor out and use the dinghy, we
don't plan on using this ladder as the primary egress. We are
building a small straight ladder we store on the roof for climbing in
and out when beached or when the boat is on the trailer.
Any and all advice would be appreciated.
Rhett & Dianne
desperately needing their River Fix in
Coastal Georgia.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I added a small sketch of the Topaz swim ladder arrangment called
SwimLadder.gif in the files section of this group.
Thanks again.
SwimLadder.gif in the files section of this group.
Thanks again.
Okay,
The rejuvenation of the Topaz is going well (though it is easily
taking 4 times the time we anticipated).
The swim ladder was the real head scratcher, and being one who prefers
to "just follow the plans" I found myself in deep water. But Dianne
and I decided that having the working swim ladder was a real safety
issue, and therefore not optional. I am rather large (280lbs) and the
first time I tried to climb aboard using my new commercial plastic
aluminum over the side ladder, both of the fold down stand-offs that
hold the bottom of the ladder away from the sides, just bent and
folded. One of the plastic steps slipped down an inch or so. And I
still had to struggle mightily to get aboard. Dianne too has
difficulty getting aboard, though her leg length, not her weight
inhibits her.
So we set about building the swim ladder hinted at in bolger's plan.
We built 2 inch extensions in the shape of half circles onto the
sides. We didn't really want to change the lines of the boat, but the
motor tilt simply would not cooperate with the clearance needed by the
low ladder pivot point we chose. We wanted as much below water ladder
as we could manage. Also, we wanted the ladder to be able to drop
with the motor in the up or down positions (the ladder shown and
mentioned in the plans is only for use when the motor is in the down
position). As one might not plan well enough to make sure the motor
is in the right place before falling overboard.
So having worked out the shape, and structure through a series of
assemblies Dianne raising and lowering the motor from inside, me
marking wood to remove. We finally have the ladder design almost pat.
However, as the second coat of epoxy dries on all of the now
unassembled pieces, We are thinking about the support cables.
With the ladder lowered to the appropriate level one is about 5 inches
of cable away from that point of no return. While we believe this is
plenty, we are clueless as to what kind of rope, or material we should
use for the cables. As I mentioned before, I am heavy. And while I am
on a diet, I am not betting on a Max W. type of transformation for
myself before the launch. So we need something that won't stretch
much. Also we think that metal cable would be a disaster in salt
water, plus it is hard on the hands.
So we figured you sailor types, men of many lines could help us choose
the correct material for this endeavor. The cables will attach to the
boat sides at the point most aft and high up as possible. Also we need
something limber enough and strung in such a way as to not inhibit the
deployment of the ladder.
1. Must support 300 plus pounds.
2. Must not stretch too much.
3. Must not interfere with the deployment.
4. Preferably something one can also use to pull on when boarding.
as often as we beach the boat, or anchor out and use the dinghy, we
don't plan on using this ladder as the primary egress. We are
building a small straight ladder we store on the roof for climbing in
and out when beached or when the boat is on the trailer.
Any and all advice would be appreciated.
Rhett & Dianne
desperately needing their River Fix in
Coastal Georgia.
The rejuvenation of the Topaz is going well (though it is easily
taking 4 times the time we anticipated).
The swim ladder was the real head scratcher, and being one who prefers
to "just follow the plans" I found myself in deep water. But Dianne
and I decided that having the working swim ladder was a real safety
issue, and therefore not optional. I am rather large (280lbs) and the
first time I tried to climb aboard using my new commercial plastic
aluminum over the side ladder, both of the fold down stand-offs that
hold the bottom of the ladder away from the sides, just bent and
folded. One of the plastic steps slipped down an inch or so. And I
still had to struggle mightily to get aboard. Dianne too has
difficulty getting aboard, though her leg length, not her weight
inhibits her.
So we set about building the swim ladder hinted at in bolger's plan.
We built 2 inch extensions in the shape of half circles onto the
sides. We didn't really want to change the lines of the boat, but the
motor tilt simply would not cooperate with the clearance needed by the
low ladder pivot point we chose. We wanted as much below water ladder
as we could manage. Also, we wanted the ladder to be able to drop
with the motor in the up or down positions (the ladder shown and
mentioned in the plans is only for use when the motor is in the down
position). As one might not plan well enough to make sure the motor
is in the right place before falling overboard.
So having worked out the shape, and structure through a series of
assemblies Dianne raising and lowering the motor from inside, me
marking wood to remove. We finally have the ladder design almost pat.
However, as the second coat of epoxy dries on all of the now
unassembled pieces, We are thinking about the support cables.
With the ladder lowered to the appropriate level one is about 5 inches
of cable away from that point of no return. While we believe this is
plenty, we are clueless as to what kind of rope, or material we should
use for the cables. As I mentioned before, I am heavy. And while I am
on a diet, I am not betting on a Max W. type of transformation for
myself before the launch. So we need something that won't stretch
much. Also we think that metal cable would be a disaster in salt
water, plus it is hard on the hands.
So we figured you sailor types, men of many lines could help us choose
the correct material for this endeavor. The cables will attach to the
boat sides at the point most aft and high up as possible. Also we need
something limber enough and strung in such a way as to not inhibit the
deployment of the ladder.
1. Must support 300 plus pounds.
2. Must not stretch too much.
3. Must not interfere with the deployment.
4. Preferably something one can also use to pull on when boarding.
as often as we beach the boat, or anchor out and use the dinghy, we
don't plan on using this ladder as the primary egress. We are
building a small straight ladder we store on the roof for climbing in
and out when beached or when the boat is on the trailer.
Any and all advice would be appreciated.
Rhett & Dianne
desperately needing their River Fix in
Coastal Georgia.