Re: Chebacco Strong-Back...Three Rivers "Coming Out" Pictures
> > You probably also noticed the boom gallow/traveller...The boat looks wonderful. I'm sure the gallows will look fine when the
boat is rigged.
Would love to see some pictures of your setup!
Ben
Ben
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, eheins@... wrote:
>
> For the record I have opted to go with a gallows on my 20'
Chebacco.
> While it's a bit different, being fashioned from 7/8" stainless rail
> tubing and fittings for the verticals and supports, I think overall
it
> will be quite similar. My reasoning was utilization both in travel
and
> operation. The spars have befuddled me in transit and I've played
with
> several options as regard
> ways to secure them to the boat / trailer for transport. I 'll get
> picture up as soon as I can.
>
For the record I have opted to go with a gallows on my 20' Chebacco.
While it's a bit different, being fashioned from 7/8" stainless rail
tubing and fittings for the verticals and supports, I think overall it
will be quite similar. My reasoning was utilization both in travel and
operation. The spars have befuddled me in transit and I've played with
several options as regard
ways to secure them to the boat / trailer for transport. I 'll get
picture up as soon as I can.
While it's a bit different, being fashioned from 7/8" stainless rail
tubing and fittings for the verticals and supports, I think overall it
will be quite similar. My reasoning was utilization both in travel and
operation. The spars have befuddled me in transit and I've played with
several options as regard
ways to secure them to the boat / trailer for transport. I 'll get
picture up as soon as I can.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "bh100014" <ben.ho@...> wrote:
rig is on it may balance out better and will be quite functional I am
sure.
The bowsprit looks just great as do all the other details. It looks
like it is just chomping on bit to get going!
The level of finish is so exquisite that it will be worth every penny
and all the work that obviously went into it. Loved the aerial view
and that was a nice to see.
Thanks for sharing all the photos with us, now I have to wipe the
drool off my keyboard:-)
Nels
>I agree that the boom gallows doesn't look quite right but once the
> Roger,
>
> You probably also noticed the boom gallow/traveller I decided to put
> in. Something I dithered about. It doesn't really look nice,
> actually, but in the end I decided on function vs asthetics. It
> serves as (a) gallow for the mast; (b) traveller; (c) stern light
> post. I figure if I change my mind later I can always just saw it
> off....
>
rig is on it may balance out better and will be quite functional I am
sure.
The bowsprit looks just great as do all the other details. It looks
like it is just chomping on bit to get going!
The level of finish is so exquisite that it will be worth every penny
and all the work that obviously went into it. Loved the aerial view
and that was a nice to see.
Thanks for sharing all the photos with us, now I have to wipe the
drool off my keyboard:-)
Nels
Hmmm we all know why you had all the help! Just wisper
beer and pizza and see how many show up! Then say "Oh
by the way first we need to get the boat out of the
shop and on the trailer." after the pizza get's there!
You just see them working so hard and fast so the
pizza doesn't get to cold before the job is
done.(Snicker snicker)
I hope you all know I'm kidding! But at times the
offer of beer and pizza after the job is done does
tend to get more help!
Blessings all
Krissie
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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beer and pizza and see how many show up! Then say "Oh
by the way first we need to get the boat out of the
shop and on the trailer." after the pizza get's there!
You just see them working so hard and fast so the
pizza doesn't get to cold before the job is
done.(Snicker snicker)
I hope you all know I'm kidding! But at times the
offer of beer and pizza after the job is done does
tend to get more help!
Blessings all
Krissie
> Getting it on the trailer: With enough muscle (human__________________________________________________
> or machine) I
> suppose it can be done without a cradle-lift, but
> mine is heavier by
> probably 300 lb (250 lb batteries, over-built cabin
> with lots of
> stuff), so I figure I should play it safe. Plus all
> those friends
> are dying to participate in doing something
> interesting. How often
> you get to lift a 1200 lb wooden boat by hand! :-)
>
> Ben
>
Do You Yahoo!?
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Roger,
You do notice the small things! PBC's Raised Deck version actually
has a slightly different design for the keel and the rudder, with a
larger rudder and a gap between the rudder and the keel. In Chebcaao
Issue #16 I included a drawing of the RD showing that section. PBC's
notes on the RD didn't mention why he put in the gap. Better
dynamics??? I just followed it...although I do like the larger
rudder as I've sailed a boat built by a friend of mine (a very nice
18 ft yawl rig) with very similar design, and I found the rudder
control to be a bit marginal.
You probably also noticed the boom gallow/traveller I decided to put
in. Something I dithered about. It doesn't really look nice,
actually, but in the end I decided on function vs asthetics. It
serves as (a) gallow for the mast; (b) traveller; (c) stern light
post. I figure if I change my mind later I can always just saw it
off....
Getting it on the trailer: With enough muscle (human or machine) I
suppose it can be done without a cradle-lift, but mine is heavier by
probably 300 lb (250 lb batteries, over-built cabin with lots of
stuff), so I figure I should play it safe. Plus all those friends
are dying to participate in doing something interesting. How often
you get to lift a 1200 lb wooden boat by hand! :-)
Ben
You do notice the small things! PBC's Raised Deck version actually
has a slightly different design for the keel and the rudder, with a
larger rudder and a gap between the rudder and the keel. In Chebcaao
Issue #16 I included a drawing of the RD showing that section. PBC's
notes on the RD didn't mention why he put in the gap. Better
dynamics??? I just followed it...although I do like the larger
rudder as I've sailed a boat built by a friend of mine (a very nice
18 ft yawl rig) with very similar design, and I found the rudder
control to be a bit marginal.
You probably also noticed the boom gallow/traveller I decided to put
in. Something I dithered about. It doesn't really look nice,
actually, but in the end I decided on function vs asthetics. It
serves as (a) gallow for the mast; (b) traveller; (c) stern light
post. I figure if I change my mind later I can always just saw it
off....
Getting it on the trailer: With enough muscle (human or machine) I
suppose it can be done without a cradle-lift, but mine is heavier by
probably 300 lb (250 lb batteries, over-built cabin with lots of
stuff), so I figure I should play it safe. Plus all those friends
are dying to participate in doing something interesting. How often
you get to lift a 1200 lb wooden boat by hand! :-)
Ben
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> On the dinghy I built first, I used butt joints with splice plates
rather than scarfs, and I got the effect you mention when I failed
to align the plate's grain with the plank's.
>
> In your IMG_0065 there seems to be a large gap between the keel
and the rudder post. Is this a temporary thing or just some
reflection in that beautiful paint job?
>
> We have a large disparity in approach/finesse. You're building
fine furniture. I'm slapping together pieces (slowly) and hoping
for something that's about the right shape. At the moment I'm
dithering over the sheer strake. Not only is the actual sheer line
quite critical, but it's awfully close to the barn floor and my age
and waistline make getting down to it a trial.
>
> For getting the boat on its cradle out of the barn, when I get to
that stage, I figured I'd just hook on the tractor and drag. I
guess if the tractor digs holes with its drive wheels, I might use
some rollers.
>
> Similarly, to get it on the trailer I was thinking of just lifting
the bow and then using the trailer's winch, sort of like I
anticipate doing at the unlaunching ramp.
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bh100014
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 9:39 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Chebacco Strong-Back...Three
Rivers "Coming Out" Pictures
>
>
> Roger,
>
> My scarfs are also 8:1. The epoxied joints were less bendy than
the
> rest of the strakes, and around the area where there's a sharper
> bent (around station 3, I think), it's noticeable. Not by much,
but
> I needed a bunch of thickened epoxy to smooth it out.
>
> By the way, here are the photos of Three Rivers being coerced
from
> the garage, lifted up on a lift-cradle, and finally set on the
> trailer:
>
>http://esyho.tripod.com/3rivers_prelaunch/
>
> Now onwards with my episode of finding an insurance company that
> will provide affordable coverage for a 'home-made boat', and
then
> the spars...
>
> Ben
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@> wrote:
> >
> > Ben,
> >
> > I've been following you progress onhttp://www.chebacco.com
and
> that's a beautiful boat.
> >
> > I'm surprised at what you say about the scarfs. I'm using
BS1088
> Okume and I scarfed the sheets with an 8:1 scarf before cutting
out
> the blanks for the strakes. The result is easily as strong as
the
> wood and when waving the strake around in the air trying to hit
the
> molds, there is no evidence of a hard spot. Lots of other
mistakes,
> but not that one.http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.html
> >
> > Roger
> > derbyrm@
> >http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: bh100014
> > To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 1:04 PM
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: Chebacco Strong-Back Available for Free
> >
> >
> > <snip>
> >
> > The only challenge I had with the strakes is where two pieces
> are scarfed together. The epoxied joint is much stiffer than the
> rest of the wood, and it does not bent the same. As a result
there's
> a fairly obvious uneveness in the area about the joint, which I
had
> to apply about 5 coats of thickened epoxy to smooth it out. It
made
> no difference whether I jointed the strakes first, let it set,
and
> then glue the whole long piece onto the boat, or scarf jointed
it as
> part of the strake gluing process. Researched all the wooden
boat
> building books I could find, but nobody mentioned any such
problem.
> So it's probably just me.
> >
> > <snip>
> > Recent Activity
> > a.. 4New Members
> > b.. 1New Files
> > Visit Your Group
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> > a.. Bolger center
> > b.. Bolger
> > c.. Phil bolger
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
On the dinghy I built first, I used butt joints with splice plates rather than scarfs, and I got the effect you mention when I failed to align the plate's grain with the plank's.
In your IMG_0065 there seems to be a large gap between the keel and the rudder post. Is this a temporary thing or just some reflection in that beautiful paint job?
We have a large disparity in approach/finesse. You're building fine furniture. I'm slapping together pieces (slowly) and hoping for something that's about the right shape. At the moment I'm dithering over the sheer strake. Not only is the actual sheer line quite critical, but it's awfully close to the barn floor and my age and waistline make getting down to it a trial.
For getting the boat on its cradle out of the barn, when I get to that stage, I figured I'd just hook on the tractor and drag. I guess if the tractor digs holes with its drive wheels, I might use some rollers.
Similarly, to get it on the trailer I was thinking of just lifting the bow and then using the trailer's winch, sort of like I anticipate doing at the unlaunching ramp.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
In your IMG_0065 there seems to be a large gap between the keel and the rudder post. Is this a temporary thing or just some reflection in that beautiful paint job?
We have a large disparity in approach/finesse. You're building fine furniture. I'm slapping together pieces (slowly) and hoping for something that's about the right shape. At the moment I'm dithering over the sheer strake. Not only is the actual sheer line quite critical, but it's awfully close to the barn floor and my age and waistline make getting down to it a trial.
For getting the boat on its cradle out of the barn, when I get to that stage, I figured I'd just hook on the tractor and drag. I guess if the tractor digs holes with its drive wheels, I might use some rollers.
Similarly, to get it on the trailer I was thinking of just lifting the bow and then using the trailer's winch, sort of like I anticipate doing at the unlaunching ramp.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: bh100014
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 9:39 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Chebacco Strong-Back...Three Rivers "Coming Out" Pictures
Roger,
My scarfs are also 8:1. The epoxied joints were less bendy than the
rest of the strakes, and around the area where there's a sharper
bent (around station 3, I think), it's noticeable. Not by much, but
I needed a bunch of thickened epoxy to smooth it out.
By the way, here are the photos of Three Rivers being coerced from
the garage, lifted up on a lift-cradle, and finally set on the
trailer:
http://esyho.tripod.com/3rivers_prelaunch/
Now onwards with my episode of finding an insurance company that
will provide affordable coverage for a 'home-made boat', and then
the spars...
Ben
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> Ben,
>
> I've been following you progress onhttp://www.chebacco.comand
that's a beautiful boat.
>
> I'm surprised at what you say about the scarfs. I'm using BS1088
Okume and I scarfed the sheets with an 8:1 scarf before cutting out
the blanks for the strakes. The result is easily as strong as the
wood and when waving the strake around in the air trying to hit the
molds, there is no evidence of a hard spot. Lots of other mistakes,
but not that one.http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.html
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bh100014
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 1:04 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Chebacco Strong-Back Available for Free
>
>
> <snip>
>
> The only challenge I had with the strakes is where two pieces
are scarfed together. The epoxied joint is much stiffer than the
rest of the wood, and it does not bent the same. As a result there's
a fairly obvious uneveness in the area about the joint, which I had
to apply about 5 coats of thickened epoxy to smooth it out. It made
no difference whether I jointed the strakes first, let it set, and
then glue the whole long piece onto the boat, or scarf jointed it as
part of the strake gluing process. Researched all the wooden boat
building books I could find, but nobody mentioned any such problem.
So it's probably just me.
>
> <snip>
> Recent Activity
> a.. 4New Members
> b.. 1New Files
> Visit Your Group
> SPONSORED LINKS
> a.. Bolger center
> b.. Bolger
> c.. Phil bolger
> Give Back
> Yahoo! for Good
>
> Get inspired
>
> by a good cause.
>
> Y! Toolbar
> Get it Free!
>
> easy 1-click access
>
> to your groups.
>
> Yahoo! Groups
> Start a group
>
> in 3 easy steps.
>
> Connect with others.
> .
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Roger,
My scarfs are also 8:1. The epoxied joints were less bendy than the
rest of the strakes, and around the area where there's a sharper
bent (around station 3, I think), it's noticeable. Not by much, but
I needed a bunch of thickened epoxy to smooth it out.
By the way, here are the photos of Three Rivers being coerced from
the garage, lifted up on a lift-cradle, and finally set on the
trailer:
http://esyho.tripod.com/3rivers_prelaunch/
Now onwards with my episode of finding an insurance company that
will provide affordable coverage for a 'home-made boat', and then
the spars...
Ben
My scarfs are also 8:1. The epoxied joints were less bendy than the
rest of the strakes, and around the area where there's a sharper
bent (around station 3, I think), it's noticeable. Not by much, but
I needed a bunch of thickened epoxy to smooth it out.
By the way, here are the photos of Three Rivers being coerced from
the garage, lifted up on a lift-cradle, and finally set on the
trailer:
http://esyho.tripod.com/3rivers_prelaunch/
Now onwards with my episode of finding an insurance company that
will provide affordable coverage for a 'home-made boat', and then
the spars...
Ben
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> Ben,
>
> I've been following you progress onhttp://www.chebacco.comand
that's a beautiful boat.
>
> I'm surprised at what you say about the scarfs. I'm using BS1088
Okume and I scarfed the sheets with an 8:1 scarf before cutting out
the blanks for the strakes. The result is easily as strong as the
wood and when waving the strake around in the air trying to hit the
molds, there is no evidence of a hard spot. Lots of other mistakes,
but not that one.http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.html
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bh100014
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 1:04 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Chebacco Strong-Back Available for Free
>
>
> <snip>
>
> The only challenge I had with the strakes is where two pieces
are scarfed together. The epoxied joint is much stiffer than the
rest of the wood, and it does not bent the same. As a result there's
a fairly obvious uneveness in the area about the joint, which I had
to apply about 5 coats of thickened epoxy to smooth it out. It made
no difference whether I jointed the strakes first, let it set, and
then glue the whole long piece onto the boat, or scarf jointed it as
part of the strake gluing process. Researched all the wooden boat
building books I could find, but nobody mentioned any such problem.
So it's probably just me.
>
> <snip>
> Recent Activity
> a.. 4New Members
> b.. 1New Files
> Visit Your Group
> SPONSORED LINKS
> a.. Bolger center
> b.. Bolger
> c.. Phil bolger
> Give Back
> Yahoo! for Good
>
> Get inspired
>
> by a good cause.
>
> Y! Toolbar
> Get it Free!
>
> easy 1-click access
>
> to your groups.
>
> Yahoo! Groups
> Start a group
>
> in 3 easy steps.
>
> Connect with others.
> .
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Roger,
My scarfs are also 8:1. The epoxied joints were less bendy than the
rest of the strakes, and around the area where there's a sharper
bent (around station 3, I think), it's noticeable. Not by much, but
I needed a bunch of thickened epoxy to smooth it out.
By the way, here are the photos of Three Rivers being coerced from
the garage, lifted up on a lift-cradle, and finally set on the
trailer:
http://esyho.tripod.com/3rivers_prelaunch/
Now onwards with my episode of finding an insurance company that
will provide affordable coverage for a 'home-made boat', and then
the spars...
Ben
My scarfs are also 8:1. The epoxied joints were less bendy than the
rest of the strakes, and around the area where there's a sharper
bent (around station 3, I think), it's noticeable. Not by much, but
I needed a bunch of thickened epoxy to smooth it out.
By the way, here are the photos of Three Rivers being coerced from
the garage, lifted up on a lift-cradle, and finally set on the
trailer:
http://esyho.tripod.com/3rivers_prelaunch/
Now onwards with my episode of finding an insurance company that
will provide affordable coverage for a 'home-made boat', and then
the spars...
Ben
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> Ben,
>
> I've been following you progress onhttp://www.chebacco.comand
that's a beautiful boat.
>
> I'm surprised at what you say about the scarfs. I'm using BS1088
Okume and I scarfed the sheets with an 8:1 scarf before cutting out
the blanks for the strakes. The result is easily as strong as the
wood and when waving the strake around in the air trying to hit the
molds, there is no evidence of a hard spot. Lots of other mistakes,
but not that one.http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.html
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bh100014
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 1:04 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Chebacco Strong-Back Available for Free
>
>
> <snip>
>
> The only challenge I had with the strakes is where two pieces
are scarfed together. The epoxied joint is much stiffer than the
rest of the wood, and it does not bent the same. As a result there's
a fairly obvious uneveness in the area about the joint, which I had
to apply about 5 coats of thickened epoxy to smooth it out. It made
no difference whether I jointed the strakes first, let it set, and
then glue the whole long piece onto the boat, or scarf jointed it as
part of the strake gluing process. Researched all the wooden boat
building books I could find, but nobody mentioned any such problem.
So it's probably just me.
>
> <snip>
> Recent Activity
> a.. 4New Members
> b.. 1New Files
> Visit Your Group
> SPONSORED LINKS
> a.. Bolger center
> b.. Bolger
> c.. Phil bolger
> Give Back
> Yahoo! for Good
>
> Get inspired
>
> by a good cause.
>
> Y! Toolbar
> Get it Free!
>
> easy 1-click access
>
> to your groups.
>
> Yahoo! Groups
> Start a group
>
> in 3 easy steps.
>
> Connect with others.
> .
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Ben,
I've been following you progress onhttp://www.chebacco.comand that's a beautiful boat.
I'm surprised at what you say about the scarfs. I'm using BS1088 Okume and I scarfed the sheets with an 8:1 scarf before cutting out the blanks for the strakes. The result is easily as strong as the wood and when waving the strake around in the air trying to hit the molds, there is no evidence of a hard spot. Lots of other mistakes, but not that one.http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.html
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
I've been following you progress onhttp://www.chebacco.comand that's a beautiful boat.
I'm surprised at what you say about the scarfs. I'm using BS1088 Okume and I scarfed the sheets with an 8:1 scarf before cutting out the blanks for the strakes. The result is easily as strong as the wood and when waving the strake around in the air trying to hit the molds, there is no evidence of a hard spot. Lots of other mistakes, but not that one.http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.html
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: bh100014
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 1:04 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Chebacco Strong-Back Available for Free
<snip>
The only challenge I had with the strakes is where two pieces are scarfed together. The epoxied joint is much stiffer than the rest of the wood, and it does not bent the same. As a result there's a fairly obvious uneveness in the area about the joint, which I had to apply about 5 coats of thickened epoxy to smooth it out. It made no difference whether I jointed the strakes first, let it set, and then glue the whole long piece onto the boat, or scarf jointed it as part of the strake gluing process. Researched all the wooden boat building books I could find, but nobody mentioned any such problem. So it's probably just me.
<snip>
Recent Activity
a.. 4New Members
b.. 1New Files
Visit Your Group
SPONSORED LINKS
a.. Bolger center
b.. Bolger
c.. Phil bolger
Give Back
Yahoo! for Good
Get inspired
by a good cause.
Y! Toolbar
Get it Free!
easy 1-click access
to your groups.
Yahoo! Groups
Start a group
in 3 easy steps.
Connect with others.
.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Nels,
Thanks for the complements.
I did not follow the entire raised-deck plan, partly because it took
a long time for PBC to deliver the plan and by then I had already
completed the full lofting, partly because I still prefer the
classical shape of the original Chebacco. The areas from the new
design that I implemented are the keel, rudder, raised floor, and
the whole cockpit/aft area shift aft by 1 ft to allow for a longer
cabin. The higher/wider/longer cabin is similar to what some other
Chebaccans have done. Same number of moulds as the regular design.
I used 1/2" Meranti BS1088 Marine ply for the bottom, and 3/8" for
the strakes. The plank lands are easily 1.5" in most places so I
figure that's plenty of strength. Everything came together so well
that I am still in awe how much a boat is defined by nothing more
that the offsets - you loft it and the thing actually comes out
looking about right! The only challenge I had with the strakes is
where two pieces are scarfed together. The epoxied joint is much
stiffer than the rest of the wood, and it does not bent the same. As
a result there's a fairly obvious uneveness in the area about the
joint, which I had to apply about 5 coats of thickened epoxy to
smooth it out. It made no difference whether I jointed the strakes
first, let it set, and then glue the whole long piece onto the boat,
or scarf jointed it as part of the strake gluing process. Researched
all the wooden boat building books I could find, but nobody
mentioned any such problem. So it's probably just me.
I was hoping to put the boat in the water this month, but now winter
is really setting in and I can see snow flakes outside the window as
I write! So unfortunately I can't answer your questions on the CB
and the motor yet. Hopefully next spring!
The immediate task at hand is to obtain insurance before she goes
into storage. All insurance companies demand a marine survey first
for a home-made boat (I told them 'custom boat'). Waterloo is a land-
locked city about a hour from any harbor area where the surveyers
are, so more money, more time....
Cheers
Ben
Thanks for the complements.
I did not follow the entire raised-deck plan, partly because it took
a long time for PBC to deliver the plan and by then I had already
completed the full lofting, partly because I still prefer the
classical shape of the original Chebacco. The areas from the new
design that I implemented are the keel, rudder, raised floor, and
the whole cockpit/aft area shift aft by 1 ft to allow for a longer
cabin. The higher/wider/longer cabin is similar to what some other
Chebaccans have done. Same number of moulds as the regular design.
I used 1/2" Meranti BS1088 Marine ply for the bottom, and 3/8" for
the strakes. The plank lands are easily 1.5" in most places so I
figure that's plenty of strength. Everything came together so well
that I am still in awe how much a boat is defined by nothing more
that the offsets - you loft it and the thing actually comes out
looking about right! The only challenge I had with the strakes is
where two pieces are scarfed together. The epoxied joint is much
stiffer than the rest of the wood, and it does not bent the same. As
a result there's a fairly obvious uneveness in the area about the
joint, which I had to apply about 5 coats of thickened epoxy to
smooth it out. It made no difference whether I jointed the strakes
first, let it set, and then glue the whole long piece onto the boat,
or scarf jointed it as part of the strake gluing process. Researched
all the wooden boat building books I could find, but nobody
mentioned any such problem. So it's probably just me.
I was hoping to put the boat in the water this month, but now winter
is really setting in and I can see snow flakes outside the window as
I write! So unfortunately I can't answer your questions on the CB
and the motor yet. Hopefully next spring!
The immediate task at hand is to obtain insurance before she goes
into storage. All insurance companies demand a marine survey first
for a home-made boat (I told them 'custom boat'). Waterloo is a land-
locked city about a hour from any harbor area where the surveyers
are, so more money, more time....
Cheers
Ben
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "bh100014" <ben.ho@> wrote:
> >
>
> > I now have the strong-back available for anyone who can pick it
up by
> > end of November.
> > Cheers
> > Ben
> >
>
> Hi Ben,
>
> That is a great offer and I hope a prospective builder gets
motivated
> to pick it up from you!
>
> For those not following Ben's building, be sure to check out the
> articles on:
>
>http://www.chebacco.com/
>
> Issues 15, 16, 18 and 19.
>
> Ben is the fellow who comissioned the raised deck expanded cabin
> version that also features a self-draining cockpit.
>
> Now I have some questions.
>
> 1. What type of plywood did you use for the hull and how many molds
> did it require? Did the glued lapstrake method create any
challenging
> moments for ya?
>
> 2. I love the raised deck plan mods but did you build it to the
height
> specified on the plans or a bit lower? It also calls for a raised
> coaming in the cockpit too?
>
> 3. Are you happy how the centerboard changes worked out? Liked the
> idea of using the countertop lining for the centerboard and the
> epoxied scuff reinforcement on the centerboard bottom. You may not
> even require a bronze plate over it.
>
> I also like the idea of electric for auxilary power and it will be
of
> interest in how that turns out.
>
> Beautiful finishing job over all and a great example of how a
Bolger
> design can look really sharp and be seaworthy, roomy and low
> maintence as well.
>
> Keep the articles coming:-)
>
> Nels
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "bh100014" <ben.ho@...> wrote:
That is a great offer and I hope a prospective builder gets motivated
to pick it up from you!
For those not following Ben's building, be sure to check out the
articles on:
http://www.chebacco.com/
Issues 15, 16, 18 and 19.
Ben is the fellow who comissioned the raised deck expanded cabin
version that also features a self-draining cockpit.
Now I have some questions.
1. What type of plywood did you use for the hull and how many molds
did it require? Did the glued lapstrake method create any challenging
moments for ya?
2. I love the raised deck plan mods but did you build it to the height
specified on the plans or a bit lower? It also calls for a raised
coaming in the cockpit too?
3. Are you happy how the centerboard changes worked out? Liked the
idea of using the countertop lining for the centerboard and the
epoxied scuff reinforcement on the centerboard bottom. You may not
even require a bronze plate over it.
I also like the idea of electric for auxilary power and it will be of
interest in how that turns out.
Beautiful finishing job over all and a great example of how a Bolger
design can look really sharp and be seaworthy, roomy and low
maintence as well.
Keep the articles coming:-)
Nels
>Hi Ben,
> I now have the strong-back available for anyone who can pick it up by
> end of November.
> Cheers
> Ben
>
That is a great offer and I hope a prospective builder gets motivated
to pick it up from you!
For those not following Ben's building, be sure to check out the
articles on:
http://www.chebacco.com/
Issues 15, 16, 18 and 19.
Ben is the fellow who comissioned the raised deck expanded cabin
version that also features a self-draining cockpit.
Now I have some questions.
1. What type of plywood did you use for the hull and how many molds
did it require? Did the glued lapstrake method create any challenging
moments for ya?
2. I love the raised deck plan mods but did you build it to the height
specified on the plans or a bit lower? It also calls for a raised
coaming in the cockpit too?
3. Are you happy how the centerboard changes worked out? Liked the
idea of using the countertop lining for the centerboard and the
epoxied scuff reinforcement on the centerboard bottom. You may not
even require a bronze plate over it.
I also like the idea of electric for auxilary power and it will be of
interest in how that turns out.
Beautiful finishing job over all and a great example of how a Bolger
design can look really sharp and be seaworthy, roomy and low
maintence as well.
Keep the articles coming:-)
Nels
I am happy to report that "Three Rivers" was successfully moved out of
the garage (with 2 inch clearance at the garage door), hoisted on a
lift-cradle, the strong-back moved out, and the trailer moved in, all
without a hitch (more or less...)! I had the help of 12 friends and of
course all the hands and muscles helped. The garage is now cleared for
the spars to be made.
I now have the strong-back available for anyone who can pick it up by
end of November. The double-enforced 20 ft x 4 ft strong-back is worth
the boat). Plus three of the temporary molds. I am in Waterloo,
Ontario, so anyone who's thinking about building and within driving
distance, please contact me!
Cheers
Ben
the garage (with 2 inch clearance at the garage door), hoisted on a
lift-cradle, the strong-back moved out, and the trailer moved in, all
without a hitch (more or less...)! I had the help of 12 friends and of
course all the hands and muscles helped. The garage is now cleared for
the spars to be made.
I now have the strong-back available for anyone who can pick it up by
end of November. The double-enforced 20 ft x 4 ft strong-back is worth
>$200 of parts and lots of labor, tried and true for both building thehull (upside down), and the boat (right side up, 4 bunks holding up
the boat). Plus three of the temporary molds. I am in Waterloo,
Ontario, so anyone who's thinking about building and within driving
distance, please contact me!
Cheers
Ben