Re: [bolger] Skimmer Transom
Robb,
I built the Skimmer with WEST epoxy around 1985. As I remember I made the
transom to bottom and sides joint with an epoxy fillet and glass tape, just
like the chines. It was not strong enough to take the beating of jumping
off 2' chop with two adults on board. When the joint cracked my son kept
the boat going full speed to keep from flooding and made it back to shore.
It was not a design or materials fault, just my own mistake in changing the
plans. I started using epoxy for boatbuilding in 1970 and WEST system in
1972, though it was just getting started then.
Gary
I built the Skimmer with WEST epoxy around 1985. As I remember I made the
transom to bottom and sides joint with an epoxy fillet and glass tape, just
like the chines. It was not strong enough to take the beating of jumping
off 2' chop with two adults on board. When the joint cracked my son kept
the boat going full speed to keep from flooding and made it back to shore.
It was not a design or materials fault, just my own mistake in changing the
plans. I started using epoxy for boatbuilding in 1970 and WEST system in
1972, though it was just getting started then.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robb" <Robb@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Skimmer Transom
>I'm curious if the boat that had the transom seperate from the bottom was
>built from epoxy. I built my first one so long ago that there wasn't
>really any epoxy to buy except the small kits that you could get from
>kmart. I used this epoxy to attach the runners to the bottom and the rest
>of the boat believe it or not was glued with silicone and bronze
>screws......Yes it sounds crazy but that boat lasted forever and didn't
>ever leak. The newer one I have is all epoxy and is lighter and much
>stronger. I think this boat deserves alot more attention from potential
>boat builders than it probably gets. Robb
The Skimmer works just great as designed - ie - with the overhang.
it has held up fine for me over several years of use. Every time I
have not understood Mr. Bolger's plans, and changed something -
inevitably - it has not worked as well, and I later ended up changing
it back. Trust the plans.
Cam
it has held up fine for me over several years of use. Every time I
have not understood Mr. Bolger's plans, and changed something -
inevitably - it has not worked as well, and I later ended up changing
it back. Trust the plans.
Cam
> ----- Original Message -----whaler)?
> From: "builtaboat" <builtaboat@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 5:49 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Skimmer Transom
>
> > Does any one have any experience with the Skimmer (poor man's
> > As drawn, the transom is angled inward while the plywood continueshave
> > full to the back, leaving a several inch plywood overhang.
> >
> > Looking at the pictures on various web pages, some boats have the
> > angled transom, with the side and bottom cut flush to it. Others
> > a straight vertical transom. Finally, some are as drawn.additional
> >
> > In theory, the additional length past the transom provides
> > planing surface. This is good except there doesn't seem to be any
> > framing on the plywood past the transom. It seems like the ply would
> > get a bit ragged.
> >
> > Any thoughts? Does an additional 2 or 3 inches make a whole lot of
> > difference? If not, is there any difference with the transom angled
> > inward or flat vertical?
I have to say that the skimmer is one of my most favorite boats that I own. The one I have now is the second one I've built. This design is phenominal. Its a fast and very stable boat. For one person to travel or fish I don't think it can be beat by any other design. I have had 2 large adults and 4 children in it before with two large batteries and a 4hp electric. I have put this boat through all kinds of abuse and its still just about like new. Both of these boats were built exactly as drawn and I've never had any problem. I'm curious if the boat that had the transom seperate from the bottom was built from epoxy. I built my first one so long ago that there wasn't really any epoxy to buy except the small kits that you could get from kmart. I used this epoxy to attach the runners to the bottom and the rest of the boat believe it or not was glued with silicone and bronze screws......Yes it sounds crazy but that boat lasted forever and didn't ever leak. The newer one I have is all epoxy and is lighter and much stronger. I think this boat deserves alot more attention from potential boat builders than it probably gets. Robb
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Lepak
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Skimmer Transom
I built a Skimmer many years ago and had a Honda 9.9 on it. It was a good
boat. It did not have any ply sticking out past the transom. I built it
from the plans in the book but I made the chines stitch and glue. I think
the transom was too. My teenage son pushed it real hard into heavy chop,
more or less flying off the waves and the joint at the bottom of the transom
separated. I rebuilt it with a 2x2 at the transom to bottom and sides
joints. I wouldn't leave any plywood sticking out past the transom.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "builtaboat" <builtaboat@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 5:49 PM
Subject: [bolger] Skimmer Transom
> Does any one have any experience with the Skimmer (poor man's whaler)?
> As drawn, the transom is angled inward while the plywood continues
> full to the back, leaving a several inch plywood overhang.
>
> Looking at the pictures on various web pages, some boats have the
> angled transom, with the side and bottom cut flush to it. Others have
> a straight vertical transom. Finally, some are as drawn.
>
> In theory, the additional length past the transom provides additional
> planing surface. This is good except there doesn't seem to be any
> framing on the plywood past the transom. It seems like the ply would
> get a bit ragged.
>
> Any thoughts? Does an additional 2 or 3 inches make a whole lot of
> difference? If not, is there any difference with the transom angled
> inward or flat vertical?
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.13/500 - Release Date:
> 10/26/2006
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I built a Skimmer many years ago and had a Honda 9.9 on it. It was a good
boat. It did not have any ply sticking out past the transom. I built it
from the plans in the book but I made the chines stitch and glue. I think
the transom was too. My teenage son pushed it real hard into heavy chop,
more or less flying off the waves and the joint at the bottom of the transom
separated. I rebuilt it with a 2x2 at the transom to bottom and sides
joints. I wouldn't leave any plywood sticking out past the transom.
Gary
boat. It did not have any ply sticking out past the transom. I built it
from the plans in the book but I made the chines stitch and glue. I think
the transom was too. My teenage son pushed it real hard into heavy chop,
more or less flying off the waves and the joint at the bottom of the transom
separated. I rebuilt it with a 2x2 at the transom to bottom and sides
joints. I wouldn't leave any plywood sticking out past the transom.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "builtaboat" <builtaboat@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 5:49 PM
Subject: [bolger] Skimmer Transom
> Does any one have any experience with the Skimmer (poor man's whaler)?
> As drawn, the transom is angled inward while the plywood continues
> full to the back, leaving a several inch plywood overhang.
>
> Looking at the pictures on various web pages, some boats have the
> angled transom, with the side and bottom cut flush to it. Others have
> a straight vertical transom. Finally, some are as drawn.
>
> In theory, the additional length past the transom provides additional
> planing surface. This is good except there doesn't seem to be any
> framing on the plywood past the transom. It seems like the ply would
> get a bit ragged.
>
> Any thoughts? Does an additional 2 or 3 inches make a whole lot of
> difference? If not, is there any difference with the transom angled
> inward or flat vertical?
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.13/500 - Release Date:
> 10/26/2006
>
>
Does any one have any experience with the Skimmer (poor man's whaler)?
As drawn, the transom is angled inward while the plywood continues
full to the back, leaving a several inch plywood overhang.
Looking at the pictures on various web pages, some boats have the
angled transom, with the side and bottom cut flush to it. Others have
a straight vertical transom. Finally, some are as drawn.
In theory, the additional length past the transom provides additional
planing surface. This is good except there doesn't seem to be any
framing on the plywood past the transom. It seems like the ply would
get a bit ragged.
Any thoughts? Does an additional 2 or 3 inches make a whole lot of
difference? If not, is there any difference with the transom angled
inward or flat vertical?
As drawn, the transom is angled inward while the plywood continues
full to the back, leaving a several inch plywood overhang.
Looking at the pictures on various web pages, some boats have the
angled transom, with the side and bottom cut flush to it. Others have
a straight vertical transom. Finally, some are as drawn.
In theory, the additional length past the transom provides additional
planing surface. This is good except there doesn't seem to be any
framing on the plywood past the transom. It seems like the ply would
get a bit ragged.
Any thoughts? Does an additional 2 or 3 inches make a whole lot of
difference? If not, is there any difference with the transom angled
inward or flat vertical?