Re: [bolger] Ready to start a Micro
>No posts that contemplate greater than quarter inchI don't think it will be that bad.http://www.edensaw.com/f_marine.htmlists
>construction seem worried about the trailoring, I've noticed.
>Instead of 875#, 3/8ths uppers w/ a 1/2" bottom comes out
>at about 1250#, I think.
Occume 3/8"s at 30lbs/sheet and 1/4" marine fir at 26lbs, so for 12 sheets, the
additional weight only adds up to 48 pounds, and because I won't have to add any
additional bracing for cabin tops, etc, it might actually be less then that. I
can live with an additional 50 pounds or so and feel happier that my boat is
stronger and safer...
Glen
Mark Albanese <marka@...> on 06/12/2000 06:49:28 PM
Please respond tobolger@egroups.com
Sent by: Mark Albanese <marka@...>
To:bolger@egroups.com
cc: (Glen Gibson/HQ/3Com)
Subject: Re: [bolger] Ready to start a Micro
glen_gibson@...wrote:
>You were probably smart to pass up that deal on Finnish
>
> ***** I'm going with BS1088 marine Occume plywood in 3/8" everywhere, with
> either
> a 3/4" (double 3/8") or 5/8" (3/8" + 1/4") for the bottom. The imported
> plywood is lighter than douglas fir, so the weight won't be much more...
>
Birch, Glenn.
Though a heavy boat for its waterline length, the Micro
still has tremendous weight carrying capacity. If you add
thickness to the outside rather than the inside of the
designed lines, the extra displacement floats you about the same.
No posts that contemplate greater than quarter inch
construction seem worried about the trailoring, I've noticed.
Instead of 875#, 3/8ths uppers w/ a 1/2" bottom comes out
at about 1250#, I think.
I notice Jim Michalak points out that the manufacturers
don't much care how long your car lasts when they make the
towing recommendations. He says figure 1/2 what they say is best.
Les Lampman wrote:
>This boat will sit at our county dock amongst thecommercial boats.
This surprises me. I can't think of anything worse for any
thickness plywood construction then constant banging around
at the mercy of an endless line of heedless fisherman in a
hurry. I'd worry every night about having to hire a diver
tomorrow in order to resurrect the boat. Hurray for mooring
whips and fenders, but doesn't your county dock have a time
limit?
BTW for the NW grayshine weather, I rather like the Micro
Navigator version at
http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/merrellc1/Files/navigator1.pdf
Is that what is meant by the, "Enclosed cockpit" version?
Mark
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Hi Mark,
Thanks for the reply.
and back when she needs to go in or out. And I'm set up to tow about 6,000
pounds so even at 1500 pounds or more including the trailer Micro won't
present much problem.
mostly sit derelict alongside. The boats I moor there fare well and I use
the big round commercial style fenders (attached to the dock so they don't
go with me into posher settings). There is no time limit, I pay $200 a year
for moorage. No power or water and no security (although I'm across the
street and can see the dock from my front window) which is why I don't want
a real "yachty" looking boat.
when we're sailing in nice weather. I'm contemplating something in between
if I can make it work. Maybe the Navigator with a folding top (I do custom
canvas work at the shop). Still working on it.
rather traditional seat & footwell arrangement where there are sides to the
footwell and everything is sealed against water entering the interior of the
boat. The footwell is drained overboard by extending to the transom
(bulkhead "D" in the Micro), basically making it into a cockpit, where the
open end freely drains or by putting in cockpit drains if it is kept at
original size and location.
Best regards,
Les
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Thanks for the reply.
>No posts that contemplate greater than quarter inchI don't plan to trailer the Micro much. A quarter mile to the launch ramp
>construction seem worried about the trailoring, I've noticed.
>Instead of 875#, 3/8ths uppers w/ a 1/2" bottom comes out
>at about 1250#, I think.
and back when she needs to go in or out. And I'm set up to tow about 6,000
pounds so even at 1500 pounds or more including the trailer Micro won't
present much problem.
>>This boat will sit at our county dock amongst theOur county dock is not very active anymore with commercial boats, they
>>commercial boats.
>This surprises me. I can't think of anything worse for any
>thickness plywood construction then constant banging around
>at the mercy of an endless line of heedless fisherman in a
>hurry. I'd worry every night about having to hire a diver
>tomorrow in order to resurrect the boat. Hurray for mooring
>whips and fenders, but doesn't your county dock have a time
>limit?
mostly sit derelict alongside. The boats I moor there fare well and I use
the big round commercial style fenders (attached to the dock so they don't
go with me into posher settings). There is no time limit, I pay $200 a year
for moorage. No power or water and no security (although I'm across the
street and can see the dock from my front window) which is why I don't want
a real "yachty" looking boat.
>BTW for the NW grayshine weather, I rather like the MicroWell, I agree but my wife doesn't. She wants the open cockpit to lounge in
>Navigator version at
>http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/merrellc1/Files/navigator1.pdf
when we're sailing in nice weather. I'm contemplating something in between
if I can make it work. Maybe the Navigator with a folding top (I do custom
canvas work at the shop). Still working on it.
>Is that what is meant by the, "Enclosed cockpit" version?No, what I meant is not utilizing the footwell hatch but instead building a
rather traditional seat & footwell arrangement where there are sides to the
footwell and everything is sealed against water entering the interior of the
boat. The footwell is drained overboard by extending to the transom
(bulkhead "D" in the Micro), basically making it into a cockpit, where the
open end freely drains or by putting in cockpit drains if it is kept at
original size and location.
Best regards,
Les
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Vance,
My Micro "Firefly" is well under way, and I have officially
reached the no turning back stage. I am going to use a double bottom
total 1/2" as I have found this sufficient in Diablo, and Pointy
skiff.
My Diablo has 1/4" sides that have been sheathed in glass set in WEST
resin. It is quite stiff. The decks will be 3/8th to save on having
to install extra framing. I am sure that the 1/4" would be ok, but I
know that my kids will be crawling all over it and therefore want a
little extra security and a little less work in this area.
So far, I have:
built the sides - clench nails from Strawberry Banke in Portsmouth NH
built the frames - be careful doing the bow transom bevel, visualize
first. cut later
built the spars - What? There is a spar building manual now? I have
older plans. (bought 11 years ago, and they sat in a drawer until
now!)
have all rigging and sails - thanks Stan!
have a borrowed foundry and 1/2 the lead on hand, - Carl, I promise I
will return it soon!
Hoping to go 3 D this weekend! weather permitting.
You can follow my progress athttp://www.ultranet.com/~djost/
Micro.htm. Pictures should be up by this evening.
My Micro "Firefly" is well under way, and I have officially
reached the no turning back stage. I am going to use a double bottom
total 1/2" as I have found this sufficient in Diablo, and Pointy
skiff.
My Diablo has 1/4" sides that have been sheathed in glass set in WEST
resin. It is quite stiff. The decks will be 3/8th to save on having
to install extra framing. I am sure that the 1/4" would be ok, but I
know that my kids will be crawling all over it and therefore want a
little extra security and a little less work in this area.
So far, I have:
built the sides - clench nails from Strawberry Banke in Portsmouth NH
built the frames - be careful doing the bow transom bevel, visualize
first. cut later
built the spars - What? There is a spar building manual now? I have
older plans. (bought 11 years ago, and they sat in a drawer until
now!)
have all rigging and sails - thanks Stan!
have a borrowed foundry and 1/2 the lead on hand, - Carl, I promise I
will return it soon!
Hoping to go 3 D this weekend! weather permitting.
You can follow my progress athttp://www.ultranet.com/~djost/
Micro.htm. Pictures should be up by this evening.
glen_gibson@...wrote:
Birch, Glenn.
Though a heavy boat for its waterline length, the Micro
still has tremendous weight carrying capacity. If you add
thickness to the outside rather than the inside of the
designed lines, the extra displacement floats you about the same.
No posts that contemplate greater than quarter inch
construction seem worried about the trailoring, I've noticed.
Instead of 875#, 3/8ths uppers w/ a 1/2" bottom comes out
at about 1250#, I think.
I notice Jim Michalak points out that the manufacturers
don't much care how long your car lasts when they make the
towing recommendations. He says figure 1/2 what they say is best.
Les Lampman wrote:
This surprises me. I can't think of anything worse for any
thickness plywood construction then constant banging around
at the mercy of an endless line of heedless fisherman in a
hurry. I'd worry every night about having to hire a diver
tomorrow in order to resurrect the boat. Hurray for mooring
whips and fenders, but doesn't your county dock have a time
limit?
BTW for the NW grayshine weather, I rather like the Micro
Navigator version at
http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/merrellc1/Files/navigator1.pdf
Is that what is meant by the, "Enclosed cockpit" version?
Mark
>You were probably smart to pass up that deal on Finnish
>
> ***** I'm going with BS1088 marine Occume plywood in 3/8" everywhere, with
> either
> a 3/4" (double 3/8") or 5/8" (3/8" + 1/4") for the bottom. The imported
> plywood is lighter than douglas fir, so the weight won't be much more...
>
Birch, Glenn.
Though a heavy boat for its waterline length, the Micro
still has tremendous weight carrying capacity. If you add
thickness to the outside rather than the inside of the
designed lines, the extra displacement floats you about the same.
No posts that contemplate greater than quarter inch
construction seem worried about the trailoring, I've noticed.
Instead of 875#, 3/8ths uppers w/ a 1/2" bottom comes out
at about 1250#, I think.
I notice Jim Michalak points out that the manufacturers
don't much care how long your car lasts when they make the
towing recommendations. He says figure 1/2 what they say is best.
Les Lampman wrote:
>This boat will sit at our county dock amongst thecommercial boats.
This surprises me. I can't think of anything worse for any
thickness plywood construction then constant banging around
at the mercy of an endless line of heedless fisherman in a
hurry. I'd worry every night about having to hire a diver
tomorrow in order to resurrect the boat. Hurray for mooring
whips and fenders, but doesn't your county dock have a time
limit?
BTW for the NW grayshine weather, I rather like the Micro
Navigator version at
http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/merrellc1/Files/navigator1.pdf
Is that what is meant by the, "Enclosed cockpit" version?
Mark
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, glen_gibson@3... wrote:
LaRowe's advertisement in Woodenboat,and received them
from Bernie Wolford, so it was just as the CSD change took
place. I got the basic set of plans, no "spar making pamphlet",
etc., and have seen no upgrades.
I learned about Bolger's new ply thickness recommendations
from this group and other sources, but I am still unclear about
how these should be applied.
The lines are drawn to the outside of planking. Conventional
practice when adding thickness is to reduce the size of the
molds (in this case the bulkheads/frames) thus keeping volume
the same. Is this necessary with Micro?
I may never build the boat, but I am curious about this and
suppose that others are too.
Vance,
Kiln drying in Tucson
> I haven't started on the hull yet ...And neither have I. Long ago I bought my plans through Elrow
LaRowe's advertisement in Woodenboat,and received them
from Bernie Wolford, so it was just as the CSD change took
place. I got the basic set of plans, no "spar making pamphlet",
etc., and have seen no upgrades.
I learned about Bolger's new ply thickness recommendations
from this group and other sources, but I am still unclear about
how these should be applied.
The lines are drawn to the outside of planking. Conventional
practice when adding thickness is to reduce the size of the
molds (in this case the bulkheads/frames) thus keeping volume
the same. Is this necessary with Micro?
I may never build the boat, but I am curious about this and
suppose that others are too.
Vance,
Kiln drying in Tucson
Thanks Glen, Good info and it's much appreciated.
Les
-----Original Message-----
From:glen_gibson@...[mailto:glen_gibson@...]
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 3:04 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Ready to start a Micro
I haven't started on the hull yet (within a couple of weeks) but below are
my
plans.
Good luck!
Glen Gibson
1) Is the 1/4" construction really enough? Or should I go to 3/8"?
Should the bottom be heavier still? What about the sides? I want to
strike a balance between two building extremes (as I see it, cheap
and maybe flimsy or tank and expensive). This boat will sit at our
county dock amongst the commercial boats. I'm not after a 'yacht'
but I do want a safe and nice looking boat.
***** I'm going with BS1088 marine Occume plywood in 3/8" everywhere, with
either
a 3/4" (double 3/8") or 5/8" (3/8" + 1/4") for the bottom. The imported
plywood is lighter than douglas fir, so the weight won't be much more...
Pertaining to the layout:
1) I am undecided about closing in the bow for more inside storage or
leaving it open (free flooding) for anchor, rode, lines, fenders,
etc. Any thoughts on this?
***** I'm going with the bow as it, don't really need any more room
2) Quite a few of you seem to prefer a more traditional closed
cockpit and I'm leaning this direction as well. Any big negatives?
***** I've heard great things about the cockpit as designed, so I'm sticking
with it. Remember, if the weather get's rough, just close up the
footwell, and the cockpit IS self draining...
I've gained much from the list already and want to thank you all for
taking the time to post and share your ideas and thoughts.
Any chance that someone on the list has a Micro within a reasonable
distance of me (maybe 100 to 150 miles) that I could see in person.
I've only seen the boat in pictures and plans and at this point
contruction is a leap of faith; one I'll take BTW :-)
Best to all and thanks,
Les Lampman
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posts off-list.
Les
-----Original Message-----
From:glen_gibson@...[mailto:glen_gibson@...]
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 3:04 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Ready to start a Micro
I haven't started on the hull yet (within a couple of weeks) but below are
my
plans.
Good luck!
Glen Gibson
1) Is the 1/4" construction really enough? Or should I go to 3/8"?
Should the bottom be heavier still? What about the sides? I want to
strike a balance between two building extremes (as I see it, cheap
and maybe flimsy or tank and expensive). This boat will sit at our
county dock amongst the commercial boats. I'm not after a 'yacht'
but I do want a safe and nice looking boat.
***** I'm going with BS1088 marine Occume plywood in 3/8" everywhere, with
either
a 3/4" (double 3/8") or 5/8" (3/8" + 1/4") for the bottom. The imported
plywood is lighter than douglas fir, so the weight won't be much more...
Pertaining to the layout:
1) I am undecided about closing in the bow for more inside storage or
leaving it open (free flooding) for anchor, rode, lines, fenders,
etc. Any thoughts on this?
***** I'm going with the bow as it, don't really need any more room
2) Quite a few of you seem to prefer a more traditional closed
cockpit and I'm leaning this direction as well. Any big negatives?
***** I've heard great things about the cockpit as designed, so I'm sticking
with it. Remember, if the weather get's rough, just close up the
footwell, and the cockpit IS self draining...
I've gained much from the list already and want to thank you all for
taking the time to post and share your ideas and thoughts.
Any chance that someone on the list has a Micro within a reasonable
distance of me (maybe 100 to 150 miles) that I could see in person.
I've only seen the boat in pictures and plans and at this point
contruction is a leap of faith; one I'll take BTW :-)
Best to all and thanks,
Les Lampman
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Click to enter.
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Accurate impartial advice on everything from laptops to table saws.
http://click.egroups.com/1/4634/10/_/3457/_/960840296/
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posting rules:
- please stay on topic
- add your comments at the top and sign your name
- check for "content" before sending: please take "thanks" and "me too!"
posts off-list.
I haven't started on the hull yet (within a couple of weeks) but below are my
plans.
Good luck!
Glen Gibson
1) Is the 1/4" construction really enough? Or should I go to 3/8"?
Should the bottom be heavier still? What about the sides? I want to
strike a balance between two building extremes (as I see it, cheap
and maybe flimsy or tank and expensive). This boat will sit at our
county dock amongst the commercial boats. I'm not after a 'yacht'
but I do want a safe and nice looking boat.
***** I'm going with BS1088 marine Occume plywood in 3/8" everywhere, with
either
a 3/4" (double 3/8") or 5/8" (3/8" + 1/4") for the bottom. The imported
plywood is lighter than douglas fir, so the weight won't be much more...
Pertaining to the layout:
1) I am undecided about closing in the bow for more inside storage or
leaving it open (free flooding) for anchor, rode, lines, fenders,
etc. Any thoughts on this?
***** I'm going with the bow as it, don't really need any more room
2) Quite a few of you seem to prefer a more traditional closed
cockpit and I'm leaning this direction as well. Any big negatives?
***** I've heard great things about the cockpit as designed, so I'm sticking
with it. Remember, if the weather get's rough, just close up the
footwell, and the cockpit IS self draining...
I've gained much from the list already and want to thank you all for
taking the time to post and share your ideas and thoughts.
Any chance that someone on the list has a Micro within a reasonable
distance of me (maybe 100 to 150 miles) that I could see in person.
I've only seen the boat in pictures and plans and at this point
contruction is a leap of faith; one I'll take BTW :-)
Best to all and thanks,
Les Lampman
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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plans.
Good luck!
Glen Gibson
1) Is the 1/4" construction really enough? Or should I go to 3/8"?
Should the bottom be heavier still? What about the sides? I want to
strike a balance between two building extremes (as I see it, cheap
and maybe flimsy or tank and expensive). This boat will sit at our
county dock amongst the commercial boats. I'm not after a 'yacht'
but I do want a safe and nice looking boat.
***** I'm going with BS1088 marine Occume plywood in 3/8" everywhere, with
either
a 3/4" (double 3/8") or 5/8" (3/8" + 1/4") for the bottom. The imported
plywood is lighter than douglas fir, so the weight won't be much more...
Pertaining to the layout:
1) I am undecided about closing in the bow for more inside storage or
leaving it open (free flooding) for anchor, rode, lines, fenders,
etc. Any thoughts on this?
***** I'm going with the bow as it, don't really need any more room
2) Quite a few of you seem to prefer a more traditional closed
cockpit and I'm leaning this direction as well. Any big negatives?
***** I've heard great things about the cockpit as designed, so I'm sticking
with it. Remember, if the weather get's rough, just close up the
footwell, and the cockpit IS self draining...
I've gained much from the list already and want to thank you all for
taking the time to post and share your ideas and thoughts.
Any chance that someone on the list has a Micro within a reasonable
distance of me (maybe 100 to 150 miles) that I could see in person.
I've only seen the boat in pictures and plans and at this point
contruction is a leap of faith; one I'll take BTW :-)
Best to all and thanks,
Les Lampman
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Les:
Glad you enjoyed the articles. The Tennessee is a great boat, and at 29'
has the ability to stretch across the tops of the wavetops in a short chop.
I have had her out in 4 ft. waves with not much trouble. Downwind she is a
little squirrelly, and upwind a little wet, but pretty smooth in both cases.
The only problem is that she is lightly built, and would not want to take a
lot of pounding on her flat bottom.
Chuck
Glad you enjoyed the articles. The Tennessee is a great boat, and at 29'
has the ability to stretch across the tops of the wavetops in a short chop.
I have had her out in 4 ft. waves with not much trouble. Downwind she is a
little squirrelly, and upwind a little wet, but pretty smooth in both cases.
The only problem is that she is lightly built, and would not want to take a
lot of pounding on her flat bottom.
Chuck
> Chuck,(and
>
> Thanks! I understand "more is better" and we have lots of debris floating
> around out here.
>
> BTW, I read your article about building Tennessee and your wife's "Help I
> Married a Boatbuilder" and spring break articles. Also one by a friend of
> Bonham's I believe. She's a really neat boat. In fact, Tennessee was
> is) high on my list of wanna do projects. I am a little concerned abouther
> ability to handle out water conditions here. Steep waves with short
> intervals coupled with mean tide rips. Sorta ugly sometimes.
>
> Regards,
> Les
>
Les:
I guess What I mean is the more the better. I have built two boats larger
that Micro that had 1/4 inch sides, and I did not feel that was too little.
I do, however feel that a 3/4 " bottom is only adequate. At least that was
my experience on the Tennessee that I built. Micro has more rocker, and is
supposed to sail on her chine, so perhaps a 1/2" bottom (two layers or 1/4"
each) would be OK. In any case, I feel the designed 1/4" bottom is too
light.
Chuck
I guess What I mean is the more the better. I have built two boats larger
that Micro that had 1/4 inch sides, and I did not feel that was too little.
I do, however feel that a 3/4 " bottom is only adequate. At least that was
my experience on the Tennessee that I built. Micro has more rocker, and is
supposed to sail on her chine, so perhaps a 1/2" bottom (two layers or 1/4"
each) would be OK. In any case, I feel the designed 1/4" bottom is too
light.
Chuck
>
> Did you mean 3/8" for the complete hull or just the bottom. And if the
> bottom, when you suggested doubling it did you mean double only if using
> 1/4" or double with 3/8" (if I can afford it)?
>
>
> Thanks,
> Les
>
Chuck,
Thanks! I understand "more is better" and we have lots of debris floating
around out here.
BTW, I read your article about building Tennessee and your wife's "Help I
Married a Boatbuilder" and spring break articles. Also one by a friend of
Bonham's I believe. She's a really neat boat. In fact, Tennessee was (and
is) high on my list of wanna do projects. I am a little concerned about her
ability to handle out water conditions here. Steep waves with short
intervals coupled with mean tide rips. Sorta ugly sometimes.
Regards,
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 5:37 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Ready to start a Micro
Les:
I guess What I mean is the more the better. I have built two boats larger
that Micro that had 1/4 inch sides, and I did not feel that was too little.
I do, however feel that a 3/4 " bottom is only adequate. At least that was
my experience on the Tennessee that I built. Micro has more rocker, and is
supposed to sail on her chine, so perhaps a 1/2" bottom (two layers or 1/4"
each) would be OK. In any case, I feel the designed 1/4" bottom is too
light.
Chuck
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Thanks! I understand "more is better" and we have lots of debris floating
around out here.
BTW, I read your article about building Tennessee and your wife's "Help I
Married a Boatbuilder" and spring break articles. Also one by a friend of
Bonham's I believe. She's a really neat boat. In fact, Tennessee was (and
is) high on my list of wanna do projects. I am a little concerned about her
ability to handle out water conditions here. Steep waves with short
intervals coupled with mean tide rips. Sorta ugly sometimes.
Regards,
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 5:37 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Ready to start a Micro
Les:
I guess What I mean is the more the better. I have built two boats larger
that Micro that had 1/4 inch sides, and I did not feel that was too little.
I do, however feel that a 3/4 " bottom is only adequate. At least that was
my experience on the Tennessee that I built. Micro has more rocker, and is
supposed to sail on her chine, so perhaps a 1/2" bottom (two layers or 1/4"
each) would be OK. In any case, I feel the designed 1/4" bottom is too
light.
Chuck
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Did you mean 3/8" for the complete hull or just the bottom. And if the
> bottom, when you suggested doubling it did you mean double only if using
> 1/4" or double with 3/8" (if I can afford it)?
>
>
> Thanks,
> Les
>
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Hi Les,
In answer to your questions, I went with 1/4 inch sides and 1/2 inch
bottom, Two layers of 1/4 inch epoxied together. All of the exterior of
the hull is covered with two layers of 4 oz fiberglass, and cabin top
etc. is one layer. If you check my web site, you will see the interior
layout where such things as the counter top etc. stiffen the sides, and
the ribs I used on the cabin top did the same for it. Even though My
Micro is no longer a sail boat, (long story) the cabin layout and
general construction is still applicable to any Micro. See;
http://www.iland.net/~pmuller/
Below are other Micro sites that have been an inspiration to me, and
you can glean many good ideas from them.
http://www.jersey.net/~tetherin/micro.htm
http://space.tin.it/io/jfwbi/micro.html
http://www.boatdesign.com/micro/
http://www.carlsondesign.com/projects.html#Micro
http://web.wt.net/~tbertw/micro.htm
http://web.wt.net/~tbertw/micro2.htm
http://www.realtime.net/~ourhouse/
Good luck, and enjoy the building, Stan, Micro Tugger, Snow Goose.
In answer to your questions, I went with 1/4 inch sides and 1/2 inch
bottom, Two layers of 1/4 inch epoxied together. All of the exterior of
the hull is covered with two layers of 4 oz fiberglass, and cabin top
etc. is one layer. If you check my web site, you will see the interior
layout where such things as the counter top etc. stiffen the sides, and
the ribs I used on the cabin top did the same for it. Even though My
Micro is no longer a sail boat, (long story) the cabin layout and
general construction is still applicable to any Micro. See;
http://www.iland.net/~pmuller/
Below are other Micro sites that have been an inspiration to me, and
you can glean many good ideas from them.
http://www.jersey.net/~tetherin/micro.htm
http://space.tin.it/io/jfwbi/micro.html
http://www.boatdesign.com/micro/
http://www.carlsondesign.com/projects.html#Micro
http://web.wt.net/~tbertw/micro.htm
http://web.wt.net/~tbertw/micro2.htm
http://www.realtime.net/~ourhouse/
Good luck, and enjoy the building, Stan, Micro Tugger, Snow Goose.
Les:
I haven't built a Micro, but I have sailed in one, and I have built several
other boats - any way here is my two cents worth:
the Long Micro. It will be a little faster too.
Chuck
I haven't built a Micro, but I have sailed in one, and I have built several
other boats - any way here is my two cents worth:
>If nothing else, double the bottom. If you can afford it, use 3/8ths.
> 1) Is the 1/4" construction really enough? Or should I go to 3/8"?
> Should the bottom be heavier still? What about the sides? I want to
> strike a balance between two building extremes (as I see it, cheap
> and maybe flimsy or tank and expensive). This boat will sit at our
> county dock amongst the commercial boats. I'm not after a 'yacht'
> but I do want a safe and nice looking boat.
>
>IMHO, the open well forward is very handy. If you need more space, consider
> 1) I am undecided about closing in the bow for more inside storage or
> leaving it open (free flooding) for anchor, rode, lines, fenders,
> etc. Any thoughts on this?
the Long Micro. It will be a little faster too.
Chuck
Hi Chuck,
Thanks for your reply. I do have a question or two ...
Did you mean 3/8" for the complete hull or just the bottom. And if the
bottom, when you suggested doubling it did you mean double only if using
1/4" or double with 3/8" (if I can afford it)?
My apologies for the confusion.
And for the group in general, what about the Long Micro? I don't see much
about it other than the one excellent site I visited. Might it be a better
choice for the open sound here? Comments most welcome.
Thanks,
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 2:02 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Ready to start a Micro
Les:
I haven't built a Micro, but I have sailed in one, and I have built several
other boats - any way here is my two cents worth:
the Long Micro. It will be a little faster too.
Chuck
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Napa Valley to Beverly Hills. Provided by CarsDirect.com.
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for your reply. I do have a question or two ...
Did you mean 3/8" for the complete hull or just the bottom. And if the
bottom, when you suggested doubling it did you mean double only if using
1/4" or double with 3/8" (if I can afford it)?
My apologies for the confusion.
And for the group in general, what about the Long Micro? I don't see much
about it other than the one excellent site I visited. Might it be a better
choice for the open sound here? Comments most welcome.
Thanks,
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 2:02 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Ready to start a Micro
Les:
I haven't built a Micro, but I have sailed in one, and I have built several
other boats - any way here is my two cents worth:
>If nothing else, double the bottom. If you can afford it, use 3/8ths.
> 1) Is the 1/4" construction really enough? Or should I go to 3/8"?
> Should the bottom be heavier still? What about the sides? I want to
> strike a balance between two building extremes (as I see it, cheap
> and maybe flimsy or tank and expensive). This boat will sit at our
> county dock amongst the commercial boats. I'm not after a 'yacht'
> but I do want a safe and nice looking boat.
>
>IMHO, the open well forward is very handy. If you need more space, consider
> 1) I am undecided about closing in the bow for more inside storage or
> leaving it open (free flooding) for anchor, rode, lines, fenders,
> etc. Any thoughts on this?
the Long Micro. It will be a little faster too.
Chuck
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Porsche Boxter. You and a friend. Nine dream days from
Napa Valley to Beverly Hills. Provided by CarsDirect.com.
Click to enter.
http://click.egroups.com/1/4882/10/_/3457/_/960750200/
------------------------------------------------------------------------