Re: [bolger] Re: Yikes! Paint Blisters
I probably wouldn't use latex below the waterline - if water can come out
while it dries, I would exepct that it could come right back through.
Gregg Carlson
while it dries, I would exepct that it could come right back through.
Gregg Carlson
>>The bottom is covered in fiberglas, with 3 coats of System 3 epoxy, then 2
>>coats of Latex primer and two coats of Sherwin Williams High Gloss Latex
>>House Paint. The sides have the same, without the glas cloth.
Hi,
I experienced this phenomenon (or something very like it) with my first
boat. In my case, the blisters were full of liquid (water, I believe).
I'm not sure what caused it, but the cure was simple - I peeled off the
blisters, filled the pockmarks with dabs of polyester filler (like Bondo),
sanded smooth, and touched up the paintwork. The blisters never came back.
I suspect the reason for them was that there were spots of residue on the
epoxy when I started to paint it. This wouldn't surprise me, since I built
the hull outside, and who knows what may come down from the heavens onto
your boat? I suppose the residue must have had a high salt content and so
osmotic pressure would encourage the water to move through the paint film
and form a blister.
Cheers,
Bill Samson
Chebacco News can be viewed on:
http://members.xoom.com/billsamson
-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@egroups.com<bolger@egroups.com>
To:bolger@egroups.com<bolger@egroups.com>
Date: 12 June 2000 01:50
Subject: [bolger] Digest Number 77
I experienced this phenomenon (or something very like it) with my first
boat. In my case, the blisters were full of liquid (water, I believe).
I'm not sure what caused it, but the cure was simple - I peeled off the
blisters, filled the pockmarks with dabs of polyester filler (like Bondo),
sanded smooth, and touched up the paintwork. The blisters never came back.
I suspect the reason for them was that there were spots of residue on the
epoxy when I started to paint it. This wouldn't surprise me, since I built
the hull outside, and who knows what may come down from the heavens onto
your boat? I suppose the residue must have had a high salt content and so
osmotic pressure would encourage the water to move through the paint film
and form a blister.
Cheers,
Bill Samson
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 15:29:33 -0400--bill.samson@...
> From: "David" <dcassidy@...>
>Subject: Yikes! Paint Blisters
>Hi all -
>My Elegant Punt has been in the water a week (fresh water), and the bottom
>is covered in blisters. There are some areas inside that have them, too.
>They are from 1/8 to 1/2 inch, and are rounded and "squishy."
>The bottom is covered in fiberglas, with 3 coats of System 3 epoxy, then 2
>coats of Latex primer and two coats of Sherwin Williams High Gloss Latex
>House Paint. The sides have the same, without the glas cloth.
>So -- what did I do wrong? Was it my prep over the epoxy or in between
>coats? Should I pull the boat, sand and paint again? Can it wait until
>winter?
>David
Chebacco News can be viewed on:
http://members.xoom.com/billsamson
-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@egroups.com<bolger@egroups.com>
To:bolger@egroups.com<bolger@egroups.com>
Date: 12 June 2000 01:50
Subject: [bolger] Digest Number 77
>------------------------------------------------------------------------through
>Take 20 friends to Vegas on New Year's courtesy of Expedia.com.
>Win the airfare, a suite at Bellagio and $15,000. Or win 2 roundtrip
>tickets anywhere in the U.S. given away daily. Click for a chance to win.
>http://click.egroups.com/1/5294/10/_/3457/_/960771047/
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>There are 25 messages in this issue.
>
>Topics in this digest:
>
> 1. Re: email format
> From: Mark Albanese <marka@...>
> 2. Inspection hatches
> From: David Ryan <david@...>
> 3. files
> From:Grove777@...
> 4. Re: Inspection hatches
> From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
> 5. Re: files
> From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
> 6. TOPAZ SPLASH
> From: " bradford raby" <sailormon@...>
> 7. Re: Inspection hatches
> From: Stan Muller <smuller@...>
> 8. Ready to start a Micro
> From:les@...
> 9. Re: Ready to start a Micro
> From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
> 10. Re: Ready to start a Micro
> From: Stan Muller <smuller@...>
> 11. Yikes! Paint Blisters
> From: "David" <dcassidy@...>
> 12. RE: Ready to start a Micro
> From: "Les Lampman" <les@...>
> 13. Outdrives
> From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@...>
> 14. Re: No Subject
> From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
> 15. Re: Outdrives
> From: Roger Dewhurst <dewhurst@...>
> 16. RE: Outdrives
> From: "Les Lampman" <les@...>
> 17. Re: Outdrives
> From: Gordon Couger <gcouger@...>
> 18. Re: Outdrives
> From: Gordon Couger <gcouger@...>
> 19. Re: Ready to start a Micro
> From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
> 20. RE: Ready to start a Micro
> From: "Les Lampman" <les@...>
> 21. Re: Outdrives
> From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@...>
> 22. Re: Design Suggestions
> From: "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@...>
> 23. Re: Outdrives
> From: Gordon Couger <gcouger@...>
> 24. Re: Outdrives
> From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@...>
> 25. Re: MICRO for sale..........
> From: "David Jost" <djost@...>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 02:04:20 -0700
> From: Mark Albanese <marka@...>
>Subject: Re: email format
>
>>Harry W. James wrote:
>> wrap for outbound messages at 50 characters. If my postings are coming
>line
>Harry:
>Your message looked fine. The above was all on one line though, total 79
>characters, the longest line in your message. "Awesome link page!" was on a
>by itself. Until I looked back at some other messages, I thought thategroups
>must take whatever we send and wrap it at 80, both to display online and tosend
>back. But most have shorter lines.line.
>
>I found by my silly test that tables will work, if all the info is on one
>Where I tabbed over underneath to make a second line in one or the othercolumn,
>it got very messy.text
>
>None of this is a problem except for those mysterious occasions when the
>gets so fragmented that it's hard to read.which is
>************
>
>I agree that John Kohnen's work is awesome, and like Craig O'Donell's,
>similarly an unparalleled great pleasure to enjoy, appears to be done forthe
>love of it only.f
>
>Mark
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 10:04:59 -0400
> From: David Ryan <david@...>
>Subject: Inspection hatches
>
>FBBB --
>
>I am at the point where it's time to select hatches for the bow,
>mid-ships, and stern compartments on the LS Margaret Ellen.
>
>Any hot tips on who might have good, cheap inspection hatches?
>
>TIA
>
>David
>
>CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
>134 W.26th St. 12th Floor
>New York, NY 10001
>(212) 247-0296
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 11:19:02 EDT
> From:Grove777@...
>Subject: files
>
>...how do you get into the vault or files???
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 11:46:29 -0500
> From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
>Subject: Re: Inspection hatches
>
>David:
>
>http://www.westmarine.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=201&prr
>nbr=64184&outlet=Bigger
>
>or search the West Marine site:http://westmarine.comfor "deck plates"
>These are six inch dia. screwout type with o-ring seal. Seem pretty good
>for ten bucks. Also they have 8" pry out version for a little more.
>rectangular ones for more money. Of course you could always make some. Iconsider
>saw some made of wood using a small bicycle innertube for a seal.
>
>Chuck
>
>
>> FBBB --
>>
>> I am at the point where it's time to select hatches for the bow,
>> mid-ships, and stern compartments on the LS Margaret Ellen.
>>
>> Any hot tips on who might have good, cheap inspection hatches?
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> David
>>
>> CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
>> 134 W.26th St. 12th Floor
>> New York, NY 10001
>> (212) 247-0296
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Go to Expedia.com to win airfare to Vegas for you and 20 friends,
>> $15,000 and a suite at Bellagio for New Year's. Or win 2 roundtrip
>> tickets anywhere in the U.S. given away daily. Click here for a chance
>win.
>>http://click.egroups.com/1/5295/10/_/3457/_/960732024/
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 11:48:50 -0500
> From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
>Subject: Re: files
>
>Follow this link:
>http://www.egroups.com/files/bolger/
>
>Chuck
>
>> ...how do you get into the vault or files???
>>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 13:04:04 -0400
> From: " bradford raby" <sailormon@...>
>Subject: TOPAZ SPLASH
>
>Noteworthy event, at least from this end. In spite of rain, rain and more
>rain. We set this weekend to splash the Tapaz. In fact I just got back in
>the house after tying the boat up to my improved dock.
>Wow, is it a beauty in the water. My compliments to the designer. So far,
>while building, she was pretty. But ungainly, like a swan out of the
>water. In the water, she looks smaller and a whole lot more attractive.
>Ran the motor up and have to work out slowing it down as I put it in gear
>and D---- near pulled out the dock (a slight exaggeration).
>Working on the windows and a lot of upper deck finishing next. By the way,
>it just started raining again and will more than likely continue for the
>next three days, so had to tarp the critical areas. Brad
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 12:56:47 -0500
> From: Stan Muller <smuller@...>
>Subject: Re: Inspection hatches
>
>Hi David,
> I know it is wrong to use four letter words when writing to the good
>people on this list, and I apologize in advance.
> But in answer to your request for where to find inexpensive hatches,
>(now the four letter word) check out "Ebay" Boating list.
> They come up on a fairly regular basis, and the sizes run around
>10"X15" to 16"X24", And usually sell for around $15 to $20.
>For what it's worth, Stan, Snow Goose.
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 18:25:13 -0000
> From:les@...
>Subject: Ready to start a Micro
>
>Well here goes. I've only had the plans since May of 1997 (last
>century for goodness sake!). I'm located in the Puget Sound region
>of Washington State at the north end of Whidbey Island. I'm right at
>Deception Pass about 10 miles north of Oak Harbor. The boat will be
>moored and daysailed in Cornet Bay and cruised around the San Juan
>Islands and beyond.
>
>I've been combing the web for information before starting my version
>of Micro and trying to run down varying opinions as to how certain
>things should (may) be done. I've tried searching the contents of
>the Bolger egroups postings only to get 1850 returns. Take longer to
>sort that out than build the boat :-)
>
>I'm not planning on any radical changes. My questions center around
>two issues; structural considerations and layout.
>
>So from the structural standpoint:
>
>1) Is the 1/4" construction really enough? Or should I go to 3/8"?
>Should the bottom be heavier still? What about the sides? I want to
>strike a balance between two building extremes (as I see it, cheap
>and maybe flimsy or tank and expensive). This boat will sit at our
>county dock amongst the commercial boats. I'm not after a 'yacht'
>but I do want a safe and nice looking boat.
>
>Pertaining to the layout:
>
>1) I am undecided about closing in the bow for more inside storage or
>leaving it open (free flooding) for anchor, rode, lines, fenders,
>etc. Any thoughts on this?
>
>2) Quite a few of you seem to prefer a more traditional closed
>cockpit and I'm leaning this direction as well. Any big negatives?
>
>I've gained much from the list already and want to thank you all for
>taking the time to post and share your ideas and thoughts.
>
>Any chance that someone on the list has a Micro within a reasonable
>distance of me (maybe 100 to 150 miles) that I could see in person.
>I've only seen the boat in pictures and plans and at this point
>contruction is a leap of faith; one I'll take BTW :-)
>
>Best to all and thanks,
>Les Lampman
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 9
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 14:01:39 -0500
> From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
>Subject: Re: Ready to start a Micro
>
>Les:
>
>I haven't built a Micro, but I have sailed in one, and I have built several
>other boats - any way here is my two cents worth:
>
>>
>> 1) Is the 1/4" construction really enough? Or should I go to 3/8"?
>> Should the bottom be heavier still? What about the sides? I want to
>> strike a balance between two building extremes (as I see it, cheap
>> and maybe flimsy or tank and expensive). This boat will sit at our
>> county dock amongst the commercial boats. I'm not after a 'yacht'
>> but I do want a safe and nice looking boat.
>>
>If nothing else, double the bottom. If you can afford it, use 3/8ths.
>>
>> 1) I am undecided about closing in the bow for more inside storage or
>> leaving it open (free flooding) for anchor, rode, lines, fenders,
>> etc. Any thoughts on this?
>
>IMHO, the open well forward is very handy. If you need more space,
>the Long Micro. It will be a little faster too.consider
>
>Chuck
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 10
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 14:27:54 -0500
> From: Stan Muller <smuller@...>
>Subject: Re: Ready to start a Micro
>
>Hi Les,
>In answer to your questions, I went with 1/4 inch sides and 1/2 inch
>bottom, Two layers of 1/4 inch epoxied together. All of the exterior of
>the hull is covered with two layers of 4 oz fiberglass, and cabin top
>etc. is one layer. If you check my web site, you will see the interior
>layout where such things as the counter top etc. stiffen the sides, and
>the ribs I used on the cabin top did the same for it. Even though My
>Micro is no longer a sail boat, (long story) the cabin layout and
>general construction is still applicable to any Micro. See;
>http://www.iland.net/~pmuller/
> Below are other Micro sites that have been an inspiration to me, and
>you can glean many good ideas from them.
>
>
>http://www.jersey.net/~tetherin/micro.htm
>http://space.tin.it/io/jfwbi/micro.html
>http://www.boatdesign.com/micro/
>http://www.carlsondesign.com/projects.html#Micro
>http://web.wt.net/~tbertw/micro.htm
>http://web.wt.net/~tbertw/micro2.htm
>http://www.realtime.net/~ourhouse/
>
> Good luck, and enjoy the building, Stan, Micro Tugger, Snow Goose.
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 11
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 15:29:33 -0400
> From: "David" <dcassidy@...>
>Subject: Yikes! Paint Blisters
>
>Hi all -
>
>My Elegant Punt has been in the water a week (fresh water), and the bottom
>is covered in blisters. There are some areas inside that have them, too.
>They are from 1/8 to 1/2 inch, and are rounded and "squishy."
>
>The bottom is covered in fiberglas, with 3 coats of System 3 epoxy, then 2
>coats of Latex primer and two coats of Sherwin Williams High Gloss Latex
>House Paint. The sides have the same, without the glas cloth.
>
>So -- what did I do wrong? Was it my prep over the epoxy or in between
>coats? Should I pull the boat, sand and paint again? Can it wait until
>winter?
>
>David
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 12
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 13:55:54 -0500
> From: "Les Lampman" <les@...>
>Subject: RE: Ready to start a Micro
>
>Hi Chuck,
>
>Thanks for your reply. I do have a question or two ...
>
>Did you mean 3/8" for the complete hull or just the bottom. And if the
>bottom, when you suggested doubling it did you mean double only if using
>1/4" or double with 3/8" (if I can afford it)?
>
>My apologies for the confusion.
>
>And for the group in general, what about the Long Micro? I don't see much
>about it other than the one excellent site I visited. Might it be a better
>choice for the open sound here? Comments most welcome.
>
>Thanks,
>Les
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
>Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 2:02 PM
>To:bolger@egroups.com
>Subject: Re: [bolger] Ready to start a Micro
>
>
>Les:
>
>I haven't built a Micro, but I have sailed in one, and I have built several
>other boats - any way here is my two cents worth:
>
>>
>> 1) Is the 1/4" construction really enough? Or should I go to 3/8"?
>> Should the bottom be heavier still? What about the sides? I want to
>> strike a balance between two building extremes (as I see it, cheap
>> and maybe flimsy or tank and expensive). This boat will sit at our
>> county dock amongst the commercial boats. I'm not after a 'yacht'
>> but I do want a safe and nice looking boat.
>>
>If nothing else, double the bottom. If you can afford it, use 3/8ths.
>>
>> 1) I am undecided about closing in the bow for more inside storage or
>> leaving it open (free flooding) for anchor, rode, lines, fenders,
>> etc. Any thoughts on this?
>
>IMHO, the open well forward is very handy. If you need more space,
>the Long Micro. It will be a little faster too.personal
>
>Chuck
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Porsche Boxter. You and a friend. Nine dream days from
>Napa Valley to Beverly Hills. Provided by CarsDirect.com.
>Click to enter.
>http://click.egroups.com/1/4882/10/_/3457/_/960750200/
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 13
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 13:10:15 -0800
> From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@...>
>Subject: Outdrives
>
>Tim of the Flying Tadpole
>
>While thundering around the web I ran across this Australian link for a new
>variation on an out drive.http://dbdmarine.com/.I have a very strong
>bias against outboards. I like the thought of a good automotive block thatyou
>can get parts for at any NAPA store, even in Nome AK, and I have worked alot
>with both Mercruisers and Volvo outdrives. This concept looks like it getsaway
>from a lot of the problems of outdrives, (cost, reliability), whileretaining
>lot of the advantages. Recognizing the fact that just because itsAustralian,
>doesn't mean that your neighbors, have any of the Duck Flat boys with theirstyle
>Tennessee's, Dakotas and Wyomings looked at this yet.
>
>I have been entertaining a design in my head combining Gerrs' Summer Kyle
>tunnel prop combined with a Bolger power sharpie, box keel. I drew one outwith
>plyboats and it looks like it would work. This outdrive idea of dbd marinewould
>be a much better solution.new
>
>--
>
>_ _ _ _ _
>% Harrywelshman@...
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 14
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 15:53:17 -0500
> From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
>Subject: Re: No Subject
>
>No personaly, but I did run across a webpage where they described sailing
>one, but can't seem to find it now.
>You might post to the bolger mail list.
>
>www.egroups.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Grove777@...>
>To: <richard@...>
>Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 10:19 AM
>Subject: No Subject
>
>
>> do you know of any one who has a bolger old shoe sailboat???
>> or can you tell me any one who might know how to track down one of
>these???
>> thank you
>> ken
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 15
> Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 09:13:24 +1200
> From: Roger Dewhurst <dewhurst@...>
>Subject: Re: Outdrives
>
>At 13:10 11/06/00 -0800, you wrote:
>>Tim of the Flying Tadpole
>>
>>While thundering around the web I ran across this Australian link for a
>>variation on an out drive.http://dbdmarine.com/.I have a very strongpersonal
>>bias against outboards. I like the thought of a good automotive block thatyou
>>can get parts for at any NAPA store, even in Nome AK, and I have worked alot
>>with both Mercruisers and Volvo outdrives. This concept looks like it getsaway
>>from a lot of the problems of outdrives, (cost, reliability), whileretaining
>>lot of the advantages. Recognizing the fact that just because itsAustralian,
>>doesn't mean that your neighbors, have any of the Duck Flat boys withtheir
>>Tennessee's, Dakotas and Wyomings looked at this yet.style
>>
>>I have been entertaining a design in my head combining Gerrs' Summer Kyle
>>tunnel prop combined with a Bolger power sharpie, box keel. I drew one outwith
>>plyboats and it looks like it would work. This outdrive idea of dbd marineI'm
>would
>>be a much better solution.
>>
>
>Have you thought about a hydraulic drive? Completely variable propellor
>speed at constant engine speed, variable engine speed at constant propellor
>speed, everything variable forward and reverse. And you can put the motor
>anywhere in the boat!
>
>R
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 16
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 14:26:57 -0500
> From: "Les Lampman" <les@...>
>Subject: RE: Outdrives
>
>I'll be darned! I didn't know NAPA carried Barr and OSCO manifolds, marine
>carbs, marine starters, marine alternators, stainless marine water pumps,
>and all that jazz!
>
>And before you roast me with a flamethrower ... I'm pulling your chain!
>a Honda outboard dealer :-)that
>
>Cheers,
>Les
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Harry W. James [mailto:welshman@...]
>Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 4:10 PM
>To:bolger@egroups.com
>Subject: [bolger] Outdrives
>
>
>Tim of the Flying Tadpole
>
>While thundering around the web I ran across this Australian link for a new
>variation on an out drive.http://dbdmarine.com/.I have a very strong
>personal
>bias against outboards. I like the thought of a good automotive block that
>you
>can get parts for at any NAPA store, even in Nome AK, and I have worked a
>lot
>with both Mercruisers and Volvo outdrives. This concept looks like it gets
>away
>from a lot of the problems of outdrives, (cost, reliability), while
>retaining
>lot of the advantages. Recognizing the fact that just because its
>Australian,
>doesn't mean that your neighbors, have any of the Duck Flat boys with their
>Tennessee's, Dakotas and Wyomings looked at this yet.
>
>I have been entertaining a design in my head combining Gerrs' Summer Kyle
>style
>tunnel prop combined with a Bolger power sharpie, box keel. I drew one out
>with
>plyboats and it looks like it would work. This outdrive idea of dbd marine
>would
>be a much better solution.
>
>--
>
>_ _ _ _ _
>% Harrywelshman@...
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Get your cash there fast.
>Use PayPal to send money via email.
>Sign up today.
>http://click.egroups.com/1/5025/10/_/3457/_/960757252/
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 17
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 16:49:35 -0500
> From: Gordon Couger <gcouger@...>
>Subject: Re: Outdrives
>
>From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@...>
>
>> Tim of the Flying Tadpole
>>
>> While thundering around the web I ran across this Australian link for a
>new
>> variation on an out drive.http://dbdmarine.com/.I have a very strong
>personal
>> bias against outboards. I like the thought of a good automotive block
>yougets
>> can get parts for at any NAPA store, even in Nome AK, and I have worked a
>lot
>> with both Mercruisers and Volvo outdrives. This concept looks like it
>awayout
>> from a lot of the problems of outdrives, (cost, reliability), while
>retaining
>> lot of the advantages. Recognizing the fact that just because its
>Australian,
>> doesn't mean that your neighbors, have any of the Duck Flat boys with
>their
>> Tennessee's, Dakotas and Wyomings looked at this yet.
>>
>> I have been entertaining a design in my head combining Gerrs' Summer Kyle
>style
>> tunnel prop combined with a Bolger power sharpie, box keel. I drew one
>withmarine
>> plyboats and it looks like it would work. This outdrive idea of dbd
>wouldmotor
>> be a much better solution.
>>
>Yes it would give you back the area you loose for the tunnel so the
>boat would plane a lot easier and be faster.
>
>I wish I had thought of that. You could add another CV joint and keep the
>prop at any angle you wanted. Insted of having it push the bow down.
>
>It is a really elegant design and the only flaws I can see are pusing the
>bow down a little and sticking out back to get in the way of fishing. But
>it is not much if any worse than out boards or stern drives.
>
>It would be a nice match with Bolger's crusier that used an air cooled
>diesel.
>
>This would not be hard to build from scratch. Just take the front axle
>out of front wheel drive car build a mount and cover it with a boot.
>cut the bottom off an outboard motor to get the prop mount and
>you should be in business.
>
>
>I wouldn't try to make the prop angle adjustable from the console but
>I would make it where it could be adjusted with a wrench. The top
>plate could be much smaller if you were going to run in deep water
>all the time.
>
>http://www.go-devil.com/Is this idea take to the extreem. Just an
>engine and a shaft. Actualy this is the style outboard they use in
>Asia and probably where the idea came from.
>
>Gordon
>
>Gordon Cougergcouger@...
>
>Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
>405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 18
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 17:01:16 -0500
> From: Gordon Couger <gcouger@...>
>Subject: Re: Outdrives
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Roger Dewhurst" <dewhurst@...>
>>
>> Have you thought about a hydraulic drive? Completely variable propellor
>> speed at constant engine speed, variable engine speed at constant
>propellor
>> speed, everything variable forward and reverse. And you can put the
>> anywhere in the boat!her
>>
>I have thought about it a lot. The plus side is no transmission if you use
>a hydostatic pump and no limts on how it is installed. The down side is
>a large loss of effecency, leaks, subject to total failure with no warning
>and
>it presents a considerble fire hazard. It is also rather expensive.
>
>Gordon
>
>Gordon Cougergcouger@...
>
>Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
>405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 19
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 17:36:32 -0500
> From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
>Subject: Re: Ready to start a Micro
>
>Les:
>
>I guess What I mean is the more the better. I have built two boats larger
>that Micro that had 1/4 inch sides, and I did not feel that was too little.
>I do, however feel that a 3/4 " bottom is only adequate. At least that was
>my experience on the Tennessee that I built. Micro has more rocker, and is
>supposed to sail on her chine, so perhaps a 1/2" bottom (two layers or 1/4"
>each) would be OK. In any case, I feel the designed 1/4" bottom is too
>light.
>
>Chuck
>
>>
>> Did you mean 3/8" for the complete hull or just the bottom. And if the
>> bottom, when you suggested doubling it did you mean double only if using
>> 1/4" or double with 3/8" (if I can afford it)?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Les
>>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 20
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 15:54:24 -0500
> From: "Les Lampman" <les@...>
>Subject: RE: Ready to start a Micro
>
>Chuck,
>
>Thanks! I understand "more is better" and we have lots of debris floating
>around out here.
>
>BTW, I read your article about building Tennessee and your wife's "Help I
>Married a Boatbuilder" and spring break articles. Also one by a friend of
>Bonham's I believe. She's a really neat boat. In fact, Tennessee was (and
>is) high on my list of wanna do projects. I am a little concerned about
>ability to handle out water conditions here. Steep waves with shortmarine
>intervals coupled with mean tide rips. Sorta ugly sometimes.
>
>Regards,
>Les
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
>Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 5:37 PM
>To:bolger@egroups.com
>Subject: Re: [bolger] Ready to start a Micro
>
>
>Les:
>
>I guess What I mean is the more the better. I have built two boats larger
>that Micro that had 1/4 inch sides, and I did not feel that was too little.
>I do, however feel that a 3/4 " bottom is only adequate. At least that was
>my experience on the Tennessee that I built. Micro has more rocker, and is
>supposed to sail on her chine, so perhaps a 1/2" bottom (two layers or 1/4"
>each) would be OK. In any case, I feel the designed 1/4" bottom is too
>light.
>
>Chuck
>
>>
>> Did you mean 3/8" for the complete hull or just the bottom. And if the
>> bottom, when you suggested doubling it did you mean double only if using
>> 1/4" or double with 3/8" (if I can afford it)?
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Les
>>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Take 20 friends to Vegas on New Year's courtesy of Expedia.com.
>Win the airfare, a suite at Bellagio and $15,000. Or win 2 roundtrip
>tickets anywhere in the U.S. given away daily. Click for a chance to win.
>http://click.egroups.com/1/5294/10/_/3457/_/960763101/
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 21
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 15:54:36 -0800
> From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@...>
>Subject: Re: Outdrives
>
>Les Lampman wrote:
>
>> I'll be darned! I didn't know NAPA carried Barr and OSCO manifolds,
>> carbs, marine starters, marine alternators, stainless marine water pumps,I'm
>> and all that jazz!
>>
>> And before you roast me with a flamethrower ... I'm pulling your chain!
>> a Honda outboard dealer :-)how
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Les
>
>The honda four stroke is one of the few outboards I would consider owning.
>
>As for the marine pumps etc. that are on a outdrive, you would be amazed at
>much of it is stock automotive.reels and
>
>HJ
>
>--
>
>_ _ _ _ _
>% Harrywelshman@...
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 22
> Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 00:25:14 -0000
> From: "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@...>
>Subject: Re: Design Suggestions
>
>Michalak has a design called the Music Box 2 which is intended as a
>"shallow draft Micro" and has a leeboard. Probably not as stable as a
>Micro. Not sure if it's on the website or if anyone has built one yet.
>--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
>> Joe:
>>
>> snip
>> > For my next project I would like to find something about the size
>and
>> > layout of MICRO, but with lee boards instead of the external
>> > keel. Any suggestions? thanks Joe K
>> >
>> >
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 23
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 19:33:10 -0500
> From: Gordon Couger <gcouger@...>
>Subject: Re: Outdrives
>
>
>From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@...>
>
>> Les Lampman wrote:
>>
>> > I'll be darned! I didn't know NAPA carried Barr
>and OSCO manifolds, marine
>> > carbs, marine starters, marine alternators,
>stainless marine water pumps,
>> > and all that jazz!
>> >
>> > And before you roast me with a flamethrower ...
>I'm pulling your chain! I'm
>> > a Honda outboard dealer :-)
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> > Les
>>
>> The honda four stroke is one of the few outboards I
>would consider owning.
>>
>> As for the marine pumps etc. that are on a outdrive,
>you would be amazed at how
>> much of it is stock automotive.
>
>Mercury Marine gets Chevy short blocks by the truck
>load nearly every day at their plant here in
>Stillwater. The starter and alternator are basicly
>automotive units with screens to keep them from
>starting a fire. They hop up a 180 Hp Chevy to 250 hp
>and away it goes.
>
>For pleasure use that might be OK but if I was useing
>the boat every day I would be much happier with the
>engin set up to put out 90 to 100 Hp.
>
>Gordon
>
>Gordon Cougergcouger@...
>
>Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
>405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 24
> Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 16:46:24 -0800
> From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@...>
>Subject: Re: Outdrives
>
>When I was fishing in Western AK I did all my own hydraulic work for net
>beater bars using Northern Hydraulic parts. Cost was reasonable at the 10HP level.
>At the 50-60 HP level were talking enough money that there has to be a verydefinite
>requirement that can't be solved any other way.crank
>
>My interest in this outdrive is it is a simple bolt a prop on the end of a
>solution, almost as simple as a prop shaft, that would have a bettershallow water
>capability than a prop shaft.boat with
>
>I have seen the Go Devils in Thailand. A big V 8 balanced on the back of a
>a tiller handle out the front and a prop shaft out the back is something tosee. I
>think that there was one in a James Bond flick.make a
>
>I have been thinking of a diesel , but my thought was to see if I could
>marine conversion of a VW diesel rabbit engine.
>
>HJ
>--
>
>_ _ _ _ _
>% Harrywelshman@...
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 25
> Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 00:44:04 -0000
> From: "David Jost" <djost@...>
>Subject: Re: MICRO for sale..........
>
>Peter,
> I am sorry to hear you are parting with your Micro. It certainly
>is well built. I hope you have another project up your sleeve for
>all
>of us to follow.
> My Micro is just about to the three dimensional stage. I have but
>two more frames to bevel and I will then set it up. I do not
>anticipate launch until next July (2001) at the earliest at the rate
>I
>am going.
> Too bad, I was hoping for a rendesvous in Lake Champlain!
>
>David Jost
>"Firefly"
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>