Re: UMA
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donschultz8275" <donschultz@...> wrote:
It would appear that UMA has a lot of the same qualities as Titebond
III. Neither supposed to be subjected to water immersion continuosly.
For that you change over to solvent-based products unless of course
you can seal the surface with adequately with waterproof paint. There
is however, a marine grade option available:
http://www.ximbonder.com/products_detail.asp?id=69
I found you can also lay down a layer of glass with the standard UMA
instead of using chopped strand and then fill the weave with the
second mixture:
"The finest milled fiber alone in UMA primer, can be used over glass
cloth as a super filler that I still want harder and protected. The
thing I noticed is that these fibers mix very smoothly with UMA, may
not work with other primers."
That lead me on a search if there was a source for chopped kevlar
strand. I found out about this stuff which is designed to work below
water and claims ultimate abrasion resistance.
http://www.epoxyproducts.com/fc2100.html
The thing is I don't think you can ever get as strong a joint or as
hard a finish with water-born products, and probably not the
penetration depth into the wood. But I can see them working adequately
for a trailer boat. Then there are two-part water reducible epoxy
paints - what's that all about?
If one uses good plywood with no voids the only concern is sealing the
edges and the outer layer. All the other inner plys are already
protected by waterproof glue layers.
Probably I would still use epoxy below the waterline if I thought the
boat will be lying at a slip most of the time. Peace of mind knowing
my expensive plywood was sealed off from water.
Nels
>Hi Don,
> Nels,
>
> Was this a trailer boat? Reason I ask is the pdf at the website says
> this stuff isn't suitable for constant immersion.
>
> Very interesting thoughts re a new instant boat glue scheme.
>
> Don
It would appear that UMA has a lot of the same qualities as Titebond
III. Neither supposed to be subjected to water immersion continuosly.
For that you change over to solvent-based products unless of course
you can seal the surface with adequately with waterproof paint. There
is however, a marine grade option available:
http://www.ximbonder.com/products_detail.asp?id=69
I found you can also lay down a layer of glass with the standard UMA
instead of using chopped strand and then fill the weave with the
second mixture:
"The finest milled fiber alone in UMA primer, can be used over glass
cloth as a super filler that I still want harder and protected. The
thing I noticed is that these fibers mix very smoothly with UMA, may
not work with other primers."
That lead me on a search if there was a source for chopped kevlar
strand. I found out about this stuff which is designed to work below
water and claims ultimate abrasion resistance.
http://www.epoxyproducts.com/fc2100.html
The thing is I don't think you can ever get as strong a joint or as
hard a finish with water-born products, and probably not the
penetration depth into the wood. But I can see them working adequately
for a trailer boat. Then there are two-part water reducible epoxy
paints - what's that all about?
If one uses good plywood with no voids the only concern is sealing the
edges and the outer layer. All the other inner plys are already
protected by waterproof glue layers.
Probably I would still use epoxy below the waterline if I thought the
boat will be lying at a slip most of the time. Peace of mind knowing
my expensive plywood was sealed off from water.
Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donschultz8275" <donschultz@...> wrote:
post directly so it may take awhile.
Thanks for the heads up Don,
Nels
> Nels,I believe it is a trailer boat but I will enquire. The fellow does not
>
> Was this a trailer boat? Reason I ask is the pdf at the website says
> this stuff isn't suitable for constant immersion.
>
> Very interesting thoughts re a new instant boat glue scheme.
>
> Don
>
post directly so it may take awhile.
Thanks for the heads up Don,
Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
.........Anybody tried UMA? He claims it is the only one he has tried
used in conjunction with additives which are available at Duckworks
and most epoxy suppliers.
Was this a trailer boat? Reason I ask is the pdf at the website says
this stuff isn't suitable for constant immersion.
Very interesting thoughts re a new instant boat glue scheme.
Don
>.................
> A fellow from another group build a fairly large motorized garvey
> using fir plywood and the filler/primer called UMA.
.........Anybody tried UMA? He claims it is the only one he has tried
used in conjunction with additives which are available at Duckworks
and most epoxy suppliers.
>Nels,
Was this a trailer boat? Reason I ask is the pdf at the website says
this stuff isn't suitable for constant immersion.
Very interesting thoughts re a new instant boat glue scheme.
Don
A fellow from another group build a fairly large motorized garvey
using fir plywood and the filler/primer called UMA.
With this stuff he added 10% chopped glass strand to begin with and
then faired it with another layer containing milled glass fibers and
silica or microballoons - can't recall which right now, but this meant
he did not have to sand down the chopped glass. He claims this
prevented checking of the fir and created an interlocking layer of
glass just as if it was glassed with cloth. He then painted it
workboat fashion with an exterior paint. Looks great!
http://www.ximbonder.com/products_detail.asp?id=34
If one used crezone MDO the second layer alone might work. although
both might be useful from the waterline down to help with abrasion
resistance.
I'm thinking if a person used Titebond III and ring nails or screws to
clamp with then epoxy may not be necessary in any Instant Boat type
construction. Who knows this stuff might work in tack and tape joints
too, but perhaps epoxy would still be the best choice there.
Anybody tried UMA? He claims it is the only one he has tried used in
conjunction with additives which are available at Duckworks and most
epoxy suppliers.
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/supplies/additives/index.htm
Nels
Nels
using fir plywood and the filler/primer called UMA.
With this stuff he added 10% chopped glass strand to begin with and
then faired it with another layer containing milled glass fibers and
silica or microballoons - can't recall which right now, but this meant
he did not have to sand down the chopped glass. He claims this
prevented checking of the fir and created an interlocking layer of
glass just as if it was glassed with cloth. He then painted it
workboat fashion with an exterior paint. Looks great!
http://www.ximbonder.com/products_detail.asp?id=34
If one used crezone MDO the second layer alone might work. although
both might be useful from the waterline down to help with abrasion
resistance.
I'm thinking if a person used Titebond III and ring nails or screws to
clamp with then epoxy may not be necessary in any Instant Boat type
construction. Who knows this stuff might work in tack and tape joints
too, but perhaps epoxy would still be the best choice there.
Anybody tried UMA? He claims it is the only one he has tried used in
conjunction with additives which are available at Duckworks and most
epoxy suppliers.
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/supplies/additives/index.htm
Nels
Nels