Re: [bolger] Bruce ,about right angle grinders
I have a setup like this for a 6" grinder; installed on my 4.5' dewalt.
It is a handfull and not for onehand sculpting, but it will eat most
anything. Clyde
Bruce Hallman wrote:
It is a handfull and not for onehand sculpting, but it will eat most
anything. Clyde
Bruce Hallman wrote:
> On 12/16/06, Peter Lenihan wrote:[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> > If you want to take waxing praise about your grinder up several
> > levels( all the way up to"Sweet Baby Jesus take me now for only heaven
> > can be better then this!") may I suggest the following:
>
> Hmmm, it sure looks like this:
>
>http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-36-3455-Backing-Pad-Kit/dp/B0007WK9D4
> <http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-36-3455-Backing-Pad-Kit/dp/B0007WK9D4>
>
> is exactly what I have been missing!
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
BINGO!
Peter Lenihan
> Hmmm, it sure looks like this:Kit/dp/B0007WK9D4
>
>http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-36-3455-Backing-Pad-
>Bruce,
> is exactly what I have been missing!
BINGO!
Peter Lenihan
On 12/16/06, Peter Lenihan wrote:
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-36-3455-Backing-Pad-Kit/dp/B0007WK9D4
is exactly what I have been missing!
> If you want to take waxing praise about your grinder up severalHmmm, it sure looks like this:
> levels( all the way up to"Sweet Baby Jesus take me now for only heaven
> can be better then this!") may I suggest the following:
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-36-3455-Backing-Pad-Kit/dp/B0007WK9D4
is exactly what I have been missing!
> And how did it sail?It wasn't much of a trial. I sailed a short way downwind and rowed back.
The boat was pure Bolger/Payson to the extent of having only one sheet
for the boomless spritsail, so when tacking you had to catch the sheet
over the thumb cleat on the extreme aft leeward rail. I would not put
up with that for long.
Hi Kennth,
I included a photo of my Robote and mentioned that I thought it was a
poor man's Thomaston Galley. It is indeed a joy to row, as I'm sure
the Galley is also.
The Galley also appears in Payson's "Instant Boats" and includes a
photo of him sailing it. The plan sheet with the offsets is reproduced
there, and it looks like enough information to build the hull. The rig
dimensions can be had from "53 Boats You Can Build" by Richard
Henderson, which includes some commentary on this and a few other
Bolger designs.
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventure.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
> This boat reminds me very much of a Michalak Robote. It hasvirtually the
> same vee bottom that Michalak claims is very efficient on Robote --because
> the chines are never in the water to produce any drag or turbulenceor
> cross-chine flow.When I recently sent PCB photos of my Long Light Dory and Diablo hulls,
I included a photo of my Robote and mentioned that I thought it was a
poor man's Thomaston Galley. It is indeed a joy to row, as I'm sure
the Galley is also.
The Galley also appears in Payson's "Instant Boats" and includes a
photo of him sailing it. The plan sheet with the offsets is reproduced
there, and it looks like enough information to build the hull. The rig
dimensions can be had from "53 Boats You Can Build" by Richard
Henderson, which includes some commentary on this and a few other
Bolger designs.
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventure.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
If you want to take waxing praise about your grinder up several
levels( all the way up to"Sweet Baby Jesus take me now for only heaven
can be better then this!") may I suggest the following:
1)Remove the handle from the grinder.
2)Remove the steel safety shroud.
3)Use the rubber sanding disk BUT reduce its' radius by about one
inch.That is,if you use 4 1/2" paper,grind rubber disk down to about 3
1/2".This can be easily and quickly done by locking a rasp file into a
vice and bringing the edge of the sanding disk to the file.(Do not put
any sand paper on the disk for this operation but do turn the
grinder"ON" :-))
By doing this little mod.,the paper remains nice and stiff yet the
edge can "bend" slightly,thus helping to reduce accidents like deep
cresent-moon gouges, if your angle of attack is too steep.
4)Learn to hold the grinder by the head,much like you would hold a R/O
sander,and it will soon feel like an extension of your hand/index
finger with the same degree of precision.
5)Remain extremely focused while using your grinder in this mode!!!
6)Kiss all manufacturers guaranties/warranties good-bye should an
accident occur.
I wish I had the slew of pictures Bruce Hector took of me
demonstrating the use of my right angle grinder for "hollows"(another
nifty thing grinders make short work of) but alas,Le Baron de Kingston
keeps them stored in his fancy dandy camera(the bugger!).For a simple
sketch of my grinder in work mode,you can check out the "hollow2" jpg
here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/How%20To/
On a final note,I like working the ubiquitous aluminium-oxide
papers,all the way down to 14 grit,for serious chunk removal :-)
Continued success with your Spyder build!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,just another grinding fool, from along the temperate
shores of the mighty St.Lawrence...........
> May I wax praise about my present favorite tool? My 4 1/2" anglegrinder.
>Hi Bruce,
>http://www.toolbarn.com/product/milwaukee/6151/
>
> I just got a big box of sanding disks 4-1/2" zirconium 24 Grit, on
> very heavy weight cloth backing. This makes a great sculpting tool,
> goes through wood like cheese, an easy grind through hardened epoxy &
> glass and even cutting metal when called to task. Pretty good access
> into tight spots, like inside fillets too.
If you want to take waxing praise about your grinder up several
levels( all the way up to"Sweet Baby Jesus take me now for only heaven
can be better then this!") may I suggest the following:
1)Remove the handle from the grinder.
2)Remove the steel safety shroud.
3)Use the rubber sanding disk BUT reduce its' radius by about one
inch.That is,if you use 4 1/2" paper,grind rubber disk down to about 3
1/2".This can be easily and quickly done by locking a rasp file into a
vice and bringing the edge of the sanding disk to the file.(Do not put
any sand paper on the disk for this operation but do turn the
grinder"ON" :-))
By doing this little mod.,the paper remains nice and stiff yet the
edge can "bend" slightly,thus helping to reduce accidents like deep
cresent-moon gouges, if your angle of attack is too steep.
4)Learn to hold the grinder by the head,much like you would hold a R/O
sander,and it will soon feel like an extension of your hand/index
finger with the same degree of precision.
5)Remain extremely focused while using your grinder in this mode!!!
6)Kiss all manufacturers guaranties/warranties good-bye should an
accident occur.
I wish I had the slew of pictures Bruce Hector took of me
demonstrating the use of my right angle grinder for "hollows"(another
nifty thing grinders make short work of) but alas,Le Baron de Kingston
keeps them stored in his fancy dandy camera(the bugger!).For a simple
sketch of my grinder in work mode,you can check out the "hollow2" jpg
here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/How%20To/
On a final note,I like working the ubiquitous aluminium-oxide
papers,all the way down to 14 grit,for serious chunk removal :-)
Continued success with your Spyder build!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,just another grinding fool, from along the temperate
shores of the mighty St.Lawrence...........
On Saturday 16 December 2006 06:40, Bruce Hallman wrote:
same vee bottom that Michalak claims is very efficient on Robote -- because
the chines are never in the water to produce any drag or turbulence or
cross-chine flow.
Sincerely,
Kenneth Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
> I think it a bit odd that I cannot recall ever hearing from someoneThis boat reminds me very much of a Michalak Robote. It has virtually the
> who has built or used a Thomaston Galley, because that boat seems like
> one of the most useful of Bolger's boats in that class.
same vee bottom that Michalak claims is very efficient on Robote -- because
the chines are never in the water to produce any drag or turbulence or
cross-chine flow.
Sincerely,
Kenneth Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
You should look into getting some ZEC disks the grit
on then is about 1/4 inch thick and don't tend to
clog. The only draw back to them is cost and they
don't flex much. But they do cut fast and are good at
self cleaning.
Blessings Krissie
--- Howard Stephenson <stephensonhw@...> wrote:
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
on then is about 1/4 inch thick and don't tend to
clog. The only draw back to them is cost and they
don't flex much. But they do cut fast and are good at
self cleaning.
Blessings Krissie
--- Howard Stephenson <stephensonhw@...> wrote:
> Bruce, have you tried using a flap disk on your__________________________________________________
> angle grinder? They
> get through wood pretty quickly and last much longer
> than an ordinary
> disk.
>
> Howard
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman"
> <bruce@...> wrote:
> >
> > > (I used a side grinder),
> >
> > May I wax praise about my present favorite tool?
> My 4 1/2" angle
> grinder.
> >
> >http://www.toolbarn.com/product/milwaukee/6151/
>
>
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
>And how did it sail?
> I sailed one once at the Mystic small craft weekend.
On 12/16/06, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
expect scratches, which could be eliminated the standard way by
working up through finer grits. It comes on very stiff cloth (or a
kind of paper?) so it has no need for extra backing. The zirconia is
real hard and sharp, (like diamond, I think). I once used the disks
sold at Home Depot, and the backing was too thin, causing the disks to
fail quickly.
I can't remember exactly where I bought them, but these are the exact
disks that I bought. Typically, I buy them on eBay.
http://www.usa1abrasives.com/product.cfm?pid=485
http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/blzifigrdi4d.html
> Would you recommend this for stripping paint off a fiberglass hull? IsWith practice it is controllable, certainly. 24 grit is rough, so
> it controllable enough?
expect scratches, which could be eliminated the standard way by
working up through finer grits. It comes on very stiff cloth (or a
kind of paper?) so it has no need for extra backing. The zirconia is
real hard and sharp, (like diamond, I think). I once used the disks
sold at Home Depot, and the backing was too thin, causing the disks to
fail quickly.
I can't remember exactly where I bought them, but these are the exact
disks that I bought. Typically, I buy them on eBay.
http://www.usa1abrasives.com/product.cfm?pid=485
http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/blzifigrdi4d.html
I sailed one once at the Mystic small craft weekend. It was built by
Dynamite Payson, back when he build boats for a living.
Dynamite Payson, back when he build boats for a living.
A old body shop trick is to take a larger disk and cut it with tin
snips to the shape of a stop sign. The points and strait edges give
it a little more bight and non backed it floats. The angle to work
controles how fast it digs.
Jon
snips to the shape of a stop sign. The points and strait edges give
it a little more bight and non backed it floats. The angle to work
controles how fast it digs.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> Bruce
>
> Would you recommend this for stripping paint off a fiberglass hull?
Is
> it controllable enough? I have about 4 layers to go through when I
start
> the topside repainting process in Feb. I gave up sanding on the
bottom
> when I was 40 hours and less than 1/4 done on the 9+ layers there.
> Sandblasting took about three hours and another 16 hrs or so to
repair
> damage done.
>
> I have the same Milwaukee grinder but I haven't tried to use it for
> sanding. Is that disk free floating or backed? Where did you get
them in
> quantity?
>
> HJ
>
> Bruce Hallman wrote:
> >> Bruce, have you tried using a flap disk on your angle grinder?
They
> >> get through wood pretty quickly and last much longer than an
ordinary
> >> disk.
> >>
> >
> > Yes, I have tried the flap disks, but my personal opinion is that
the
> > high quality paper 'Zirconium' disks give a better bang for the
buck
> > versus the more costly flap disks.
> >
> > Photos of the disks, on the forward deck of Topaz Spyder here:
> >
> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/324126528/
> >http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/324126520/
> >
> >
> >
>
Bruce
Would you recommend this for stripping paint off a fiberglass hull? Is
it controllable enough? I have about 4 layers to go through when I start
the topside repainting process in Feb. I gave up sanding on the bottom
when I was 40 hours and less than 1/4 done on the 9+ layers there.
Sandblasting took about three hours and another 16 hrs or so to repair
damage done.
I have the same Milwaukee grinder but I haven't tried to use it for
sanding. Is that disk free floating or backed? Where did you get them in
quantity?
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
Would you recommend this for stripping paint off a fiberglass hull? Is
it controllable enough? I have about 4 layers to go through when I start
the topside repainting process in Feb. I gave up sanding on the bottom
when I was 40 hours and less than 1/4 done on the 9+ layers there.
Sandblasting took about three hours and another 16 hrs or so to repair
damage done.
I have the same Milwaukee grinder but I haven't tried to use it for
sanding. Is that disk free floating or backed? Where did you get them in
quantity?
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
>> Bruce, have you tried using a flap disk on your angle grinder? They
>> get through wood pretty quickly and last much longer than an ordinary
>> disk.
>>
>
> Yes, I have tried the flap disks, but my personal opinion is that the
> high quality paper 'Zirconium' disks give a better bang for the buck
> versus the more costly flap disks.
>
> Photos of the disks, on the forward deck of Topaz Spyder here:
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/324126528/
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/324126520/
>
>
>
> Bruce, have you tried using a flap disk on your angle grinder? TheyYes, I have tried the flap disks, but my personal opinion is that the
> get through wood pretty quickly and last much longer than an ordinary
> disk.
high quality paper 'Zirconium' disks give a better bang for the buck
versus the more costly flap disks.
Photos of the disks, on the forward deck of Topaz Spyder here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/324126528/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/324126520/
Bruce, have you tried using a flap disk on your angle grinder? They
get through wood pretty quickly and last much longer than an ordinary
disk.
Howard
get through wood pretty quickly and last much longer than an ordinary
disk.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> > (I used a side grinder),
>
> May I wax praise about my present favorite tool? My 4 1/2" angle
grinder.
>
>http://www.toolbarn.com/product/milwaukee/6151/
> (I used a side grinder),May I wax praise about my present favorite tool? My 4 1/2" angle grinder.
http://www.toolbarn.com/product/milwaukee/6151/
I just got a big box of sanding disks 4-1/2" zirconium 24 Grit, on
very heavy weight cloth backing. This makes a great sculpting tool,
goes through wood like cheese, an easy grind through hardened epoxy &
glass and even cutting metal when called to task. Pretty good access
into tight spots, like inside fillets too.
> And that's what I can tell you about Thomaton Galleys.Thanks for the report! I want one.
>
> JohnT
On 12/15/06, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
bet I could knock out a rough one in a single day. With more
attention to quality of fit and finish, one month.
The strongback could be simply a 16 foot 4x4 on two sawhorses.
>I don't get it. The boat takes only about a dozen pieces of wood. I
> I think the main reason is its not an easy build.
bet I could knock out a rough one in a single day. With more
attention to quality of fit and finish, one month.
The strongback could be simply a 16 foot 4x4 on two sawhorses.
I built one in the early 70's (subsequently destroyed in a small tornado). The boat had to be built on molds and the snout had to be carved from a block of wood (I used a side grinder), but I did not find it particularly difficult to build. Mine was used for rowing only (I was too poor in those days to afford a motor or a sail) and it was a pretty good rowing boat. It was not particularly tender and I duck hunted out of it a couple of times, launching and retrieving a 90 lb Labrador over the stern without incident. As PCB notes, it is not a dry boat and while I generally avoided rough water, punching into a motorboat wake generated some spray. I would think that with one of the little 4 stroke motors, the Galley would make a pretty good fishing boat for fairly sheltered waters. I don't see why she wouldn't make an acceptable day sailor. There is room to lie down and she could be used for camp cruising. However, when the Galley grounds out, she tips to one side or the other, so you need to make sure there is water under you when you set up camp. It may be possible to beach the boat and step out dry shod, but I never managed it.
And that's what I can tell you about Thomaton Galleys.
JohnT
And that's what I can tell you about Thomaton Galleys.
JohnT
----- Original Message -----
From: Harry James
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 12:28 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Anybody ever build a Thomaston Galley?
I think the main reason is its not an easy build.
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
> I think it a bit odd that I cannot recall ever hearing from someone
> who has built or used a Thomaston Galley, because that boat seems like
> one of the most useful of Bolger's boats in that class.
>
>http://hallman.org/bolger/215/ThomastonGalley.png
>http://hallman.org/bolger/215/ThomG.fbm
>
>
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I think the main reason is its not an easy build.
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
> I think it a bit odd that I cannot recall ever hearing from someone
> who has built or used a Thomaston Galley, because that boat seems like
> one of the most useful of Bolger's boats in that class.
>
>http://hallman.org/bolger/215/ThomastonGalley.png
>http://hallman.org/bolger/215/ThomG.fbm
>
>
>
Howdy,
I can't tell you much, but I can tell you that a fellow here in
Portland built one several years ago. It hung, hull only, from the
rafters for several years, then he finished it off about 2 years ago.
AFIK, he still has it. I was out in it with him a couple of times -
using oars and a stinky, noisy old Seagull. Never tried it under sail.
Seemed like a very nice boat. From what he said, it was anything but
an "instant boat" when it came to the complexity of the build. I even
seriously considered buying it when he offered. Instead we started
from scratch and built a Storer design, the Goat Island Skiff. Also a
nice boat for all types of propulsion.
Cheers,
David Graybeal
Portland, OR
"I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues" --
Duke Ellington
*******************
I can't tell you much, but I can tell you that a fellow here in
Portland built one several years ago. It hung, hull only, from the
rafters for several years, then he finished it off about 2 years ago.
AFIK, he still has it. I was out in it with him a couple of times -
using oars and a stinky, noisy old Seagull. Never tried it under sail.
Seemed like a very nice boat. From what he said, it was anything but
an "instant boat" when it came to the complexity of the build. I even
seriously considered buying it when he offered. Instead we started
from scratch and built a Storer design, the Goat Island Skiff. Also a
nice boat for all types of propulsion.
Cheers,
David Graybeal
Portland, OR
"I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues" --
Duke Ellington
*******************
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> I think it a bit odd that I cannot recall ever hearing from someone
> who has built or used a Thomaston Galley, because that boat seems
like
> one of the most useful of Bolger's boats in that class.
>
>http://hallman.org/bolger/215/ThomastonGalley.png
>http://hallman.org/bolger/215/ThomG.fbm
>
I'm sure Bruce knows the following, but for others who might not:
The design appears in Bolger's "Small Boats" (and therefore in
his "Bolger Boats"). There are a couple of photos, one showing PCB
rowing it and another with Bolger and possibly Harold Payson
kneeling or sitting well aft while they lean over the transom to
play with a small outboard motor. This photo is meant to show how
there's sufficient buoyancy aft to make the procedure safe. Bolger
said the design was the only successful attempt he knew of a row-
sail-motor combination.
The "ceremonial Barge" in Boats with an Open Mind is a stretched
version of the Galley.
Howard
The design appears in Bolger's "Small Boats" (and therefore in
his "Bolger Boats"). There are a couple of photos, one showing PCB
rowing it and another with Bolger and possibly Harold Payson
kneeling or sitting well aft while they lean over the transom to
play with a small outboard motor. This photo is meant to show how
there's sufficient buoyancy aft to make the procedure safe. Bolger
said the design was the only successful attempt he knew of a row-
sail-motor combination.
The "ceremonial Barge" in Boats with an Open Mind is a stretched
version of the Galley.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> I think it a bit odd that I cannot recall ever hearing from someone
> who has built or used a Thomaston Galley, because that boat seems
like
> one of the most useful of Bolger's boats in that class.
>
>http://hallman.org/bolger/215/ThomastonGalley.png
>http://hallman.org/bolger/215/ThomG.fbm
>
I think it a bit odd that I cannot recall ever hearing from someone
who has built or used a Thomaston Galley, because that boat seems like
one of the most useful of Bolger's boats in that class.
http://hallman.org/bolger/215/ThomastonGalley.png
http://hallman.org/bolger/215/ThomG.fbm
who has built or used a Thomaston Galley, because that boat seems like
one of the most useful of Bolger's boats in that class.
http://hallman.org/bolger/215/ThomastonGalley.png
http://hallman.org/bolger/215/ThomG.fbm