Re: Sprit Boom reefing and lacing
Noted. Thanks Lewis.
Graeme
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Lewis E. Gordon" <l_gordon_nica@...>
wrote:
Graeme
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Lewis E. Gordon" <l_gordon_nica@...>
wrote:
>Order the catalog of plans (ad is usually in the classifieds of WB)and then order the chosen plans.
Another alternative is to have the snotter be a line from the mast step
to the head of the mast with a small loop in it to catch the forward
end of the boom. This allows the laced sail to be lowered without the
lacing fouling the snotter attachment. With a block and a cam cleat at
the lower end the tension on the snotter can be adjusted easily.
Reed
to the head of the mast with a small loop in it to catch the forward
end of the boom. This allows the laced sail to be lowered without the
lacing fouling the snotter attachment. With a block and a cam cleat at
the lower end the tension on the snotter can be adjusted easily.
Reed
Remember that most of these drawings are available from the
Smithsonian. Order the catalog of plans (ad is usually in the
classifieds of WB) and then order the chosen plans. I found that it is
best to not order too many at once as the clerk apparently gets
hurried and moves the original before the copy is completed. The
catalog is basicly indexed by publication name and plate number.
Lewis
Smithsonian. Order the catalog of plans (ad is usually in the
classifieds of WB) and then order the chosen plans. I found that it is
best to not order too many at once as the clerk apparently gets
hurried and moves the original before the copy is completed. The
catalog is basicly indexed by publication name and plate number.
Lewis
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, craig o'donnell <dadadata@...> wrote:
>
> >--- In <mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jamie
> >Orr" <jas_orr@> wrote:
> >Chappelle's "American Small Sailing Craft" has a drawing
> >> of a sharpie on page 106 that shows vertical reefing, although not
> >> in great detail.
> >
> >Hey, I was just reading that for the first time the other day, and
> >experienced the pleasant realisation of how the much maligned
> >vertical reefing of the jib headed sprit boom sail may actually work
> >with ease. I recall a year or so ago that issues to do with the
> >
> >
> >I'm not sure what PCB, or others following, who certainly have read
> >Chappelle were thinking.
> >
> >On page 107 of "American Small Sailing Craft" at the bottom, facing
> >Figure 38 on page 106 (the redrawing of "B"'s 1879 "Forest and
> >Stream" One Man 1870's Tonging Sharpie) Chappelle explains how the
> >brail is rove: "The reef band was parallel to the hoist. In early
> >boats the reef was made by a SERIES OF BRAILS leading through
> >thimbles on the luff-rope and SPLICED INTO A SINGLE FALL, which
> >permitted reefing without lowering the sails." (My capitals. He goes
> >on to say that later boats had two reef bands that were tied in
> >manually as the sail was again raised after first being lowered. In
> >the sails drawn on page 106 having just one verticle reefing band
> >these later reefing points for manually tying in the reef are also
> >shown along with what he says is the earlier system of seried brails
> >spliced to a single fall. The one drawing is possibly used to
> >economically illustrate both reefing techniques from seperate
> >periods.) Using a magnifying glass (and hasn't every Bolgerado got
> >one?) there's a note on Chappelle's drawing that can also be made
> >out: "The number of brails used on a single sail varied from 2 to 5.
> >Brails were not commonly employed in the 1890's when two reef bands
> >in each sail became practice."
> >
> >Now, Chappelle calls it a series of brails, but I think calling it a
> >number of parallel brails is a more apt description, also the
> >binding friction forces on the fall are individual and seperately
> >distributed in parallel. The problem with the Birdwatcher 1A sail
> >reefing is exactly that the brails are all in series, and the
> >binding forces are cumulative. Handily, the overhauling of the
> >reefing brail line fall would reduce in the Birdwatcher 1A sail from
> >around 20ft to only 2ft if the 1870's technique were used. Wonderful
> >stuff!
> >
> >Was PCB just doodling? Thinking it looked easier to rove (love that
> >word) without the splices. Siezing would do anyway. The difference
> >is akin to that between shoe laces and velcro!
> >
> >Graeme
> >PS. For Birdwatcher 1A, PCB shows single luff ties, but his system
> >of seperately paired figure 8 luff ties will let the sail slide down
> >the mast easier, and is better than the spiral lacing shown by
> >Chappelle in Fig 38.
>
> Hey. Good catch. I've seen some full-size Chappelle originals. What
> wonderful drawing. ASSC doesn't do them justice.
>
> See
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/articles/chapelle/index.cfmfor a
> vertical batten brail.
> --
> Craig O'Donnell
> Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
> <http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
> The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
> The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
> Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
> American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
> Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
> _________________________________
>
> -- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
> -- Macintosh kinda guy
> Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
> _________________________________
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>--- In <mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>bolger@yahoogroups.com, "JamieHey. Good catch. I've seen some full-size Chappelle originals. What
>Orr" <jas_orr@...> wrote:
>Chappelle's "American Small Sailing Craft" has a drawing
>> of a sharpie on page 106 that shows vertical reefing, although not
>> in great detail.
>
>Hey, I was just reading that for the first time the other day, and
>experienced the pleasant realisation of how the much maligned
>vertical reefing of the jib headed sprit boom sail may actually work
>with ease. I recall a year or so ago that issues to do with the
>
>
>I'm not sure what PCB, or others following, who certainly have read
>Chappelle were thinking.
>
>On page 107 of "American Small Sailing Craft" at the bottom, facing
>Figure 38 on page 106 (the redrawing of "B"'s 1879 "Forest and
>Stream" One Man 1870's Tonging Sharpie) Chappelle explains how the
>brail is rove: "The reef band was parallel to the hoist. In early
>boats the reef was made by a SERIES OF BRAILS leading through
>thimbles on the luff-rope and SPLICED INTO A SINGLE FALL, which
>permitted reefing without lowering the sails." (My capitals. He goes
>on to say that later boats had two reef bands that were tied in
>manually as the sail was again raised after first being lowered. In
>the sails drawn on page 106 having just one verticle reefing band
>these later reefing points for manually tying in the reef are also
>shown along with what he says is the earlier system of seried brails
>spliced to a single fall. The one drawing is possibly used to
>economically illustrate both reefing techniques from seperate
>periods.) Using a magnifying glass (and hasn't every Bolgerado got
>one?) there's a note on Chappelle's drawing that can also be made
>out: "The number of brails used on a single sail varied from 2 to 5.
>Brails were not commonly employed in the 1890's when two reef bands
>in each sail became practice."
>
>Now, Chappelle calls it a series of brails, but I think calling it a
>number of parallel brails is a more apt description, also the
>binding friction forces on the fall are individual and seperately
>distributed in parallel. The problem with the Birdwatcher 1A sail
>reefing is exactly that the brails are all in series, and the
>binding forces are cumulative. Handily, the overhauling of the
>reefing brail line fall would reduce in the Birdwatcher 1A sail from
>around 20ft to only 2ft if the 1870's technique were used. Wonderful
>stuff!
>
>Was PCB just doodling? Thinking it looked easier to rove (love that
>word) without the splices. Siezing would do anyway. The difference
>is akin to that between shoe laces and velcro!
>
>Graeme
>PS. For Birdwatcher 1A, PCB shows single luff ties, but his system
>of seperately paired figure 8 luff ties will let the sail slide down
>the mast easier, and is better than the spiral lacing shown by
>Chappelle in Fig 38.
wonderful drawing. ASSC doesn't do them justice.
Seehttp://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/articles/chapelle/index.cfmfor a
vertical batten brail.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jamie Orr" <jas_orr@...> wrote:
Chappelle's "American Small Sailing Craft" has a drawing
> of a sharpie on page 106 that shows vertical reefing, although not
> in great detail.
Hey, I was just reading that for the first time the other day, and
experienced the pleasant realisation of how the much maligned
vertical reefing of the jib headed sprit boom sail may actually work
with ease. I recall a year or so ago that issues to do with the
reefing brail line binding and preventing the reef from shaking out
were raised here concerning the Birdwatcher 1A original sail plan.
Jim Michalak has also written of the problem concerning this rig on
boats he has later designed as well as his experience with the
original Birdwatcher.
The trouble is that the single reefing line as shown for Birdwatcher
1A (BWAOM p235) is necessarily quite lengthy and has many (8)
turning points where it may bind as it zigs and zags up the sail
between the luff and reefing band cringles. Suggestions have beeen
made including that the line be double ended, regularly waxed, and
thin to minimise binding and lengthy overhauling.
I'm not sure what PCB, or others following, who certainly have read
Chappelle were thinking.
On page 107 of "American Small Sailing Craft" at the bottom, facing
Figure 38 on page 106 (the redrawing of "B"'s 1879 "Forest and
Stream" One Man 1870's Tonging Sharpie) Chappelle explains how the
brail is rove: "The reef band was parallel to the hoist. In early
boats the reef was made by a SERIES OF BRAILS leading through
thimbles on the luff-rope and SPLICED INTO A SINGLE FALL, which
permitted reefing without lowering the sails." (My capitals. He goes
on to say that later boats had two reef bands that were tied in
manually as the sail was again raised after first being lowered. In
the sails drawn on page 106 having just one verticle reefing band
these later reefing points for manually tying in the reef are also
shown along with what he says is the earlier system of seried brails
spliced to a single fall. The one drawing is possibly used to
economically illustrate both reefing techniques from seperate
periods.) Using a magnifying glass (and hasn't every Bolgerado got
one?) there's a note on Chappelle's drawing that can also be made
out: "The number of brails used on a single sail varied from 2 to 5.
Brails were not commonly employed in the 1890's when two reef bands
in each sail became practice."
Now, Chappelle calls it a series of brails, but I think calling it a
number of parallel brails is a more apt description, also the
binding friction forces on the fall are individual and seperately
distributed in parallel. The problem with the Birdwatcher 1A sail
reefing is exactly that the brails are all in series, and the
binding forces are cumulative. Handily, the overhauling of the
reefing brail line fall would reduce in the Birdwatcher 1A sail from
around 20ft to only 2ft if the 1870's technique were used. Wonderful
stuff!
Was PCB just doodling? Thinking it looked easier to rove (love that
word) without the splices. Siezing would do anyway. The difference
is akin to that between shoe laces and velcro!
Graeme
PS. For Birdwatcher 1A, PCB shows single luff ties, but his system
of seperately paired figure 8 luff ties will let the sail slide down
the mast easier, and is better than the spiral lacing shown by
Chappelle in Fig 38.
One alternative to reefing the sprit boomed sail is to simply feather
it, ie. flatten the sail by hardening up on the snotter and decrease
the angle of the sail to the wind (ie. luffing). This decreases the
sails power an may allow you to carry on. When this no longer serves,
it may be time to lower the rig and row. As Craig mentioned, here on
the Chesapeake where the rig was favored, boats had several rigs in
different sizes for the prevailing conditions at different times of the
year, along with multiple mast steps. The summer rig would generally
be a large main and smaller mizzen, in winter the mizzen alone might be
used in a center mast step. When overwhelmed the whole rig might have
been tossed overboard and used as a sea anchor.
Bob
it, ie. flatten the sail by hardening up on the snotter and decrease
the angle of the sail to the wind (ie. luffing). This decreases the
sails power an may allow you to carry on. When this no longer serves,
it may be time to lower the rig and row. As Craig mentioned, here on
the Chesapeake where the rig was favored, boats had several rigs in
different sizes for the prevailing conditions at different times of the
year, along with multiple mast steps. The summer rig would generally
be a large main and smaller mizzen, in winter the mizzen alone might be
used in a center mast step. When overwhelmed the whole rig might have
been tossed overboard and used as a sea anchor.
Bob
I reef my Junebug exactly as Jamie does his Elegant Punt. It is as
he states: impossible to perform underway. But in small boats such
as these when you are out for a couple of hours at most between
landfalls, you can step ashore, reef, or shake one out as needed.
Lacing the main was too time consuming to make adjustments, so by
the third season, I replaced the continuous lacing line with
individual ties at each luff grommet. Couldn't tell any difference
in performance (did not expect any) but adjustments and tying on
after long transport was very easy.
Also note that in seven seasons of sailing on inland lakes and a few
ocean bays, on more than a hundred different occassions, I have
sailed reefed only 4 times. In the Junebug when the wind is over 15
mph, too much water comes aboard to be safe. I figure Jamie has
found the same.
Phil Lea
Russellville, Arkansas
he states: impossible to perform underway. But in small boats such
as these when you are out for a couple of hours at most between
landfalls, you can step ashore, reef, or shake one out as needed.
Lacing the main was too time consuming to make adjustments, so by
the third season, I replaced the continuous lacing line with
individual ties at each luff grommet. Couldn't tell any difference
in performance (did not expect any) but adjustments and tying on
after long transport was very easy.
Also note that in seven seasons of sailing on inland lakes and a few
ocean bays, on more than a hundred different occassions, I have
sailed reefed only 4 times. In the Junebug when the wind is over 15
mph, too much water comes aboard to be safe. I figure Jamie has
found the same.
Phil Lea
Russellville, Arkansas
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jamie Orr" <jas_orr@...> wrote:
> I have created a folder called Elegant Punt in the *photos*
section
> of this group with a picture of our elegant punt with its sprit-
boom
> sail reefed. This sail does not go up and down with a halyard, so
I
> did my reefing at the dock, by removing the mast, loosening the
> lacing, tying in the reef, (there is a line of grommets across the
> sail and I used short pieces of small line to tie the reef) moving
> the sprit-boom to a higher cringle, tightening the lacing with the
> sail lowered so the new foot is at the level of the old foot then
> putting the mast back in the boat. This was a viable solution for
> us as it let us go sailing in strong winds by reefing before we
> went. It would be extremely difficult to do on the water, to say
> the least.
There are a couple variations. On the Oldshoe, you move the sprit boom up
some and tie the foot of the sail in a bundle.
On Chesapeake workboats, they would often just use a smaller sail and mast
(ie, moving the "mizzen" into the "mainmast" step).
Conor O'Brien uses a different approach by moving the sprit up the mast
permanently -- scroll down:
http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/boat/cob/COB_sea-boat.html
Commodore Ralph Munroe use a sprit-boom system that it seems he and Cap Nat
Herreshoff liked. There was a crotch bearing on the mast, and the snotter
tackle was at the end of the boom pulling on the clew. I'm not sure I can
reference a drawing and I've come across no description of the system in
use, though I'm sure it must have been fairly simple to reef: the Commodore
didn't mess around with extra lines and stuff that was hard to work.
Finally, I "invented" a system based on a sprit-boom with club, that I've
never tested. It results in a sail that is a little different shaped than a
typical leg of mutton. Someday ... (I'll see if I can find a drawing to
post).
Vertical reefing is fine if you plan to run downwind or on a broad reach in
bad weather. Workboats that used it would never try to beat to windward in
bad weather anyway. If that's your plan, a motor makes more sense.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
some and tie the foot of the sail in a bundle.
On Chesapeake workboats, they would often just use a smaller sail and mast
(ie, moving the "mizzen" into the "mainmast" step).
Conor O'Brien uses a different approach by moving the sprit up the mast
permanently -- scroll down:
http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/boat/cob/COB_sea-boat.html
Commodore Ralph Munroe use a sprit-boom system that it seems he and Cap Nat
Herreshoff liked. There was a crotch bearing on the mast, and the snotter
tackle was at the end of the boom pulling on the clew. I'm not sure I can
reference a drawing and I've come across no description of the system in
use, though I'm sure it must have been fairly simple to reef: the Commodore
didn't mess around with extra lines and stuff that was hard to work.
Finally, I "invented" a system based on a sprit-boom with club, that I've
never tested. It results in a sail that is a little different shaped than a
typical leg of mutton. Someday ... (I'll see if I can find a drawing to
post).
Vertical reefing is fine if you plan to run downwind or on a broad reach in
bad weather. Workboats that used it would never try to beat to windward in
bad weather anyway. If that's your plan, a motor makes more sense.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Dennis,
It's an awkward job however you do it.
If your sail is laced semi-permanently to the mast i.e you furl it
on the mast rather than lowering it, then the reefing lines must
move the sail forward, with the line of reef "points" being parallel
to the luff and mast. This will bunch up the a portion of the sail
immediately behind the mast which won't help your performance, but
since you already have more wind than you can use, it may not be a
big deal. Chappelle's "American Small Sailing Craft" has a drawing
of a sharpie on page 106 that shows vertical reefing, although not
in great detail.
If your sail goes up and down then you can reef more or less
normally, except that you will have to move the outboard end of the
sprit boom to a cringle or grommet higher up the leech, in line with
the reef points, which will become the new "foot" of the sail.
I have created a folder called Elegant Punt in the *photos* section
of this group with a picture of our elegant punt with its sprit-boom
sail reefed. This sail does not go up and down with a halyard, so I
did my reefing at the dock, by removing the mast, loosening the
lacing, tying in the reef, (there is a line of grommets across the
sail and I used short pieces of small line to tie the reef) moving
the sprit-boom to a higher cringle, tightening the lacing with the
sail lowered so the new foot is at the level of the old foot then
putting the mast back in the boat. This was a viable solution for
us as it let us go sailing in strong winds by reefing before we
went. It would be extremely difficult to do on the water, to say
the least.
You referred to rolling up the sail from the clew -- you may be
confusing reefing with brailing, which gathers up the sail from the
leech forward. It tames the sail, but you can't sail properly while
brailed.
For Christmas I received a copy of David Nichols "The Working Guide
to Small-Boat Sails" He doesn't go into reefing as much as he
could, but it covers a number of traditional sail types and might be
a good general guide. It's a good read in any case, and it's for
sale throughhttp://www.duckworksmagazine.com/
Sorry for the long post, probably someone else has answered your
question by now!
Jamie
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "lancasterdennis" <dlancast@...>
wrote:
It's an awkward job however you do it.
If your sail is laced semi-permanently to the mast i.e you furl it
on the mast rather than lowering it, then the reefing lines must
move the sail forward, with the line of reef "points" being parallel
to the luff and mast. This will bunch up the a portion of the sail
immediately behind the mast which won't help your performance, but
since you already have more wind than you can use, it may not be a
big deal. Chappelle's "American Small Sailing Craft" has a drawing
of a sharpie on page 106 that shows vertical reefing, although not
in great detail.
If your sail goes up and down then you can reef more or less
normally, except that you will have to move the outboard end of the
sprit boom to a cringle or grommet higher up the leech, in line with
the reef points, which will become the new "foot" of the sail.
I have created a folder called Elegant Punt in the *photos* section
of this group with a picture of our elegant punt with its sprit-boom
sail reefed. This sail does not go up and down with a halyard, so I
did my reefing at the dock, by removing the mast, loosening the
lacing, tying in the reef, (there is a line of grommets across the
sail and I used short pieces of small line to tie the reef) moving
the sprit-boom to a higher cringle, tightening the lacing with the
sail lowered so the new foot is at the level of the old foot then
putting the mast back in the boat. This was a viable solution for
us as it let us go sailing in strong winds by reefing before we
went. It would be extremely difficult to do on the water, to say
the least.
You referred to rolling up the sail from the clew -- you may be
confusing reefing with brailing, which gathers up the sail from the
leech forward. It tames the sail, but you can't sail properly while
brailed.
For Christmas I received a copy of David Nichols "The Working Guide
to Small-Boat Sails" He doesn't go into reefing as much as he
could, but it covers a number of traditional sail types and might be
a good general guide. It's a good read in any case, and it's for
sale throughhttp://www.duckworksmagazine.com/
Sorry for the long post, probably someone else has answered your
question by now!
Jamie
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "lancasterdennis" <dlancast@...>
wrote:
>boom
> Was wondering if anyone can give me advice on how to reef a sprit
> sail. I want to lace my main and mizzen to the mast and am notseeing
> how I can reef if the main is close up to the mast. the wholetaper
> thing works against it. So, how is it done? I have read wherethe
> main is permenantly laced to the mast and furling is done from thethe
> clue, rollng forward. Where do I find information on how to sail
> cat yawl rig and how to rig, snotter, etc.?is
>
> Thank you and wishing all a happy new year. My Old Shoe project
> still moving along, but very slowly due to the winter blues.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dennis
>
>Was wondering if anyone can give me advice on how to reef a sprit boomJim Michalak has talked about this in his "Essays" -- the archives should
>sail. I want to lace my main and mizzen to the mast and am not seeing
>how I can reef if the main is close up to the mast. the whole taper
>thing works against it. So, how is it done? I have read where the
>main is permenantly laced to the mast and furling is done from the
>clue, rollng forward. Where do I find information on how to sail the
>cat yawl rig and how to rig, snotter, etc.?
>
>Thank you and wishing all a happy new year. My Old Shoe project is
>still moving along, but very slowly due to the winter blues.
>
>Regards,
>
>Dennis
be on Duckworks. (Google duckworks michalak).
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
As far as sailing a cat-yawl, you might want to check out <Chebacco Sailing 101> onhttp://www.chebacco.com/(tab on left of screen)
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: lancasterdennis
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 3:18 PM
Subject: [bolger] Sprit Boom reefing and lacing
Was wondering if anyone can give me advice on how to reef a sprit boom
sail. I want to lace my main and mizzen to the mast and am not seeing
how I can reef if the main is close up to the mast. the whole taper
thing works against it. So, how is it done? I have read where the
main is permenantly laced to the mast and furling is done from the
clue, rollng forward. Where do I find information on how to sail the
cat yawl rig and how to rig, snotter, etc.?
Thank you and wishing all a happy new year. My Old Shoe project is
still moving along, but very slowly due to the winter blues.
Regards,
Dennis
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Dennis,
Ain't nothin perfect. The problem is that the snotter has to be attached to the mast. This attachment works fine if your sail is on a track (as it is on a Dovekie and as drawn on Old Shoe). The snoter is attached to the front of the mast; the sailgoes up and down on the track, and everything works pretty well. Lacing , whether you lace to and fro (recommended) or round and round has part of the lacing in front of the mast. The snotter attachment point fouls the lacing if you lower the sail.
One way around this is to incorporate vertical reefing. This usually involves a vertical batten and some sort of jiffy reefing system. If you can get your hands on Chappelle's books Boatbuilding or American Small Sailing Craft, there are illustrations showing this approach.
JohnT
Ain't nothin perfect. The problem is that the snotter has to be attached to the mast. This attachment works fine if your sail is on a track (as it is on a Dovekie and as drawn on Old Shoe). The snoter is attached to the front of the mast; the sailgoes up and down on the track, and everything works pretty well. Lacing , whether you lace to and fro (recommended) or round and round has part of the lacing in front of the mast. The snotter attachment point fouls the lacing if you lower the sail.
One way around this is to incorporate vertical reefing. This usually involves a vertical batten and some sort of jiffy reefing system. If you can get your hands on Chappelle's books Boatbuilding or American Small Sailing Craft, there are illustrations showing this approach.
JohnT
----- Original Message -----
From: lancasterdennis
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 3:18 PM
Subject: [bolger] Sprit Boom reefing and lacing
Was wondering if anyone can give me advice on how to reef a sprit boom
sail. I want to lace my main and mizzen to the mast and am not seeing
how I can reef if the main is close up to the mast. the whole taper
thing works against it. So, how is it done? I have read where the
main is permenantly laced to the mast and furling is done from the
clue, rollng forward. Where do I find information on how to sail the
cat yawl rig and how to rig, snotter, etc.?
Thank you and wishing all a happy new year. My Old Shoe project is
still moving along, but very slowly due to the winter blues.
Regards,
Dennis
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Was wondering if anyone can give me advice on how to reef a sprit boom
sail. I want to lace my main and mizzen to the mast and am not seeing
how I can reef if the main is close up to the mast. the whole taper
thing works against it. So, how is it done? I have read where the
main is permenantly laced to the mast and furling is done from the
clue, rollng forward. Where do I find information on how to sail the
cat yawl rig and how to rig, snotter, etc.?
Thank you and wishing all a happy new year. My Old Shoe project is
still moving along, but very slowly due to the winter blues.
Regards,
Dennis
sail. I want to lace my main and mizzen to the mast and am not seeing
how I can reef if the main is close up to the mast. the whole taper
thing works against it. So, how is it done? I have read where the
main is permenantly laced to the mast and furling is done from the
clue, rollng forward. Where do I find information on how to sail the
cat yawl rig and how to rig, snotter, etc.?
Thank you and wishing all a happy new year. My Old Shoe project is
still moving along, but very slowly due to the winter blues.
Regards,
Dennis