Re: [bolger] Rigging questions
Sam, If you're going ILLoan, he also has 103 rigs which I think is the
same book with the Chin lug added. Clyde
Sam Glasscock wrote:
same book with the Chin lug added. Clyde
Sam Glasscock wrote:
> I'd be happy to re-read it(Bolgers's 101 sail rigs),[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> but I'll have to read it first. Now all I have to do
> is find a copy. Inter-library loan here I come.
> Thanks.
>
> > Re-read the introduction of that book. In just a
> > few pages PCB
> > succinctly explains it all.
> > (That introduction is the best summary of sail
> > theory I have ever read.)
> >
> > Identify and trace all the forces. They always
> > balance.
> >
> > Using a little math, trigonometry, you can calculate
> > the stresses.
> >
>
> __________________________________________________________
> We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
> (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
>http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265<http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265>
>
>
I found that for Fairing internal logs as I had a lot of ft. to do a
power plainner and a belt sander with 60 grit. Work great setting it
deep to start and shallow when getting closer then finnshing with the
belt sander.
Jon
power plainner and a belt sander with 60 grit. Work great setting it
deep to start and shallow when getting closer then finnshing with the
belt sander.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "9buck crowley" <buckcrowley@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I built mine with internal chines. It's easy to do. Prebevel the top
edge to
> keep water from collecting there. My recomendation is that you make a
kickup
> rudder if you anticipate doing any beach launchings...
>
> Buck Crowley
If I may be so bold...
Buy Jim Michalak's "Boatbuilding for Beginners and Beyond" - available
through Duckworks. Jim's book covers external chine construction (and
S & G) design and construction of kickup rudders, leeboards and much,
much more. IMHO best bang for the buck for a boatbuilding newbie.
Bryant
Buy Jim Michalak's "Boatbuilding for Beginners and Beyond" - available
through Duckworks. Jim's book covers external chine construction (and
S & G) design and construction of kickup rudders, leeboards and much,
much more. IMHO best bang for the buck for a boatbuilding newbie.
Bryant
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Marcus Medved <m_medved@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the advice about the bevel on the interior chine log.
Just another one of those details I never would have thought about myself.
>
> The kickup rudder was going to be one of my questions down the
road. How do you make a kickup rudder and leeboard?
>
> Marc
>
> 9buck crowley <buckcrowley@...> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I built mine with internal chines. It's easy to do. Prebevel the top
edge to
> keep water from collecting there. My recomendation is that you make
a kickup
> rudder if you anticipate doing any beach launchings...
>
> Buck Crowley
>
> >From: "donschultz8275" <donschultz@...>
> >Reply-To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> >To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [bolger] Re: Surf Questions
> >Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2007 20:26:14 -0000
> >
> >--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "m_medved" <m_medved@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > Is there any way I could build this boat with internal chine logs?
> >Or
> > > better yet, can the boat be built using "fillets" in the manner of
> > > stitch and glue designs?
> > >
> > > I'm a first time builder, please let me know if I'm asking for
> >trouble.
> > >
> >
> >Even if you do the external logs, doing the interior of the chines w'
> >fillets would be a good idea to keep water out of the seam.
> >
> >Don Schultz
> >
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Get in the mood for Valentine's Day. View photos, recipes and more
on your
> Live.com page.
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>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful
email and get things done faster.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Thanks for the advice about the bevel on the interior chine log. Just another one of those details I never would have thought about myself.
The kickup rudder was going to be one of my questions down the road. How do you make a kickup rudder and leeboard?
Marc
9buck crowley <buckcrowley@...> wrote:
Hi,
I built mine with internal chines. It's easy to do. Prebevel the top edge to
keep water from collecting there. My recomendation is that you make a kickup
rudder if you anticipate doing any beach launchings...
Buck Crowley
Get in the mood for Valentine's Day. View photos, recipes and more on your
Live.com page.
http://www.live.com/?addTemplate=ValentinesDay&ocid=T001MSN30A0701
---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The kickup rudder was going to be one of my questions down the road. How do you make a kickup rudder and leeboard?
Marc
9buck crowley <buckcrowley@...> wrote:
Hi,
I built mine with internal chines. It's easy to do. Prebevel the top edge to
keep water from collecting there. My recomendation is that you make a kickup
rudder if you anticipate doing any beach launchings...
Buck Crowley
>From: "donschultz8275" <donschultz@...>__________________________________________________________
>Reply-To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [bolger] Re: Surf Questions
>Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2007 20:26:14 -0000
>
>--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "m_medved" <m_medved@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > Is there any way I could build this boat with internal chine logs?
>Or
> > better yet, can the boat be built using "fillets" in the manner of
> > stitch and glue designs?
> >
> > I'm a first time builder, please let me know if I'm asking for
>trouble.
> >
>
>Even if you do the external logs, doing the interior of the chines w'
>fillets would be a good idea to keep water out of the seam.
>
>Don Schultz
>
Get in the mood for Valentine's Day. View photos, recipes and more on your
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---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I built an Elegant Punt last winter as a disposable dingy for my
Triton. AC plywood, PL Premium glue, latex paint and a stapler. $60 and
20 hrs, external chines are quick, fiberglass takes a lot of time.
HJ
Howard Stephenson wrote:
Triton. AC plywood, PL Premium glue, latex paint and a stapler. $60 and
20 hrs, external chines are quick, fiberglass takes a lot of time.
HJ
Howard Stephenson wrote:
> I've not built a hull with external chines but have found that an
> often-overlooked aspect of stitch-and-glue is the large amount of
> time taken to clean up and fair the outside of the chine once it's
> been epoxy-glassed.
>
> Once, with a small plywood canoe I was building, I thought I could
> save some work by epoxy-glassing only the insides of the chines. But
> it turned out that, although the chines were strong enough, they
> flexed too much, opening up a crack all along each chine. So I had
> to glass-epoxy the outside too.
>
> Right now I'm near the end of building a small plywood camping
> trailer. In some ways it's easier than boatbuilding because all the
> plywood panels are flat; they're joined at the edges with 3/4" x 1-
> 1/2" internal chines -- all straight pieces :-)
>
> Howard
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
>
>> Yes, external chines are quickest and easiest. That is why the
>> 'Instant Boat' fleet uses them.
>>
>
>
Hi,
I built mine with internal chines. It's easy to do. Prebevel the top edge to
keep water from collecting there. My recomendation is that you make a kickup
rudder if you anticipate doing any beach launchings...
Buck Crowley
Get in the mood for Valentine's Day. View photos, recipes and more on your
Live.com page.
http://www.live.com/?addTemplate=ValentinesDay&ocid=T001MSN30A0701
I built mine with internal chines. It's easy to do. Prebevel the top edge to
keep water from collecting there. My recomendation is that you make a kickup
rudder if you anticipate doing any beach launchings...
Buck Crowley
>From: "donschultz8275" <donschultz@...>_________________________________________________________________
>Reply-To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [bolger] Re: Surf Questions
>Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2007 20:26:14 -0000
>
>--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "m_medved" <m_medved@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > Is there any way I could build this boat with internal chine logs?
>Or
> > better yet, can the boat be built using "fillets" in the manner of
> > stitch and glue designs?
> >
> > I'm a first time builder, please let me know if I'm asking for
>trouble.
> >
>
>Even if you do the external logs, doing the interior of the chines w'
>fillets would be a good idea to keep water out of the seam.
>
>Don Schultz
>
Get in the mood for Valentine's Day. View photos, recipes and more on your
Live.com page.
http://www.live.com/?addTemplate=ValentinesDay&ocid=T001MSN30A0701
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "m_medved" <m_medved@...> wrote:
fillets would be a good idea to keep water out of the seam.
Don Schultz
>Or
> Hello,
>
> Is there any way I could build this boat with internal chine logs?
> better yet, can the boat be built using "fillets" in the manner oftrouble.
> stitch and glue designs?
>
> I'm a first time builder, please let me know if I'm asking for
>Even if you do the external logs, doing the interior of the chines w'
fillets would be a good idea to keep water out of the seam.
Don Schultz
I've not built a hull with external chines but have found that an
often-overlooked aspect of stitch-and-glue is the large amount of
time taken to clean up and fair the outside of the chine once it's
been epoxy-glassed.
Once, with a small plywood canoe I was building, I thought I could
save some work by epoxy-glassing only the insides of the chines. But
it turned out that, although the chines were strong enough, they
flexed too much, opening up a crack all along each chine. So I had
to glass-epoxy the outside too.
Right now I'm near the end of building a small plywood camping
trailer. In some ways it's easier than boatbuilding because all the
plywood panels are flat; they're joined at the edges with 3/4" x 1-
1/2" internal chines -- all straight pieces :-)
Howard
often-overlooked aspect of stitch-and-glue is the large amount of
time taken to clean up and fair the outside of the chine once it's
been epoxy-glassed.
Once, with a small plywood canoe I was building, I thought I could
save some work by epoxy-glassing only the insides of the chines. But
it turned out that, although the chines were strong enough, they
flexed too much, opening up a crack all along each chine. So I had
to glass-epoxy the outside too.
Right now I'm near the end of building a small plywood camping
trailer. In some ways it's easier than boatbuilding because all the
plywood panels are flat; they're joined at the edges with 3/4" x 1-
1/2" internal chines -- all straight pieces :-)
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
> Yes, external chines are quickest and easiest. That is why the
> 'Instant Boat' fleet uses them.
I'd be happy to re-read it(Bolgers's 101 sail rigs),
but I'll have to read it first. Now all I have to do
is find a copy. Inter-library loan here I come.
Thanks.
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265
but I'll have to read it first. Now all I have to do
is find a copy. Inter-library loan here I come.
Thanks.
> Re-read the introduction of that book. In just a____________________________________________________________________________________
> few pages PCB
> succinctly explains it all.
> (That introduction is the best summary of sail
> theory I have ever read.)
>
> Identify and trace all the forces. They always
> balance.
>
> Using a little math, trigonometry, you can calculate
> the stresses.
>
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
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Hi,
Not being knowledgeable about standing rigging, I can't tell you
what to do, but I can suggest a good source of information -- Brion
Toss literally wrote the book on rigging. Chapter 5 of "The
Complete Rigger's Apprentice" is all about standing rigging, and
goes into detail on staying loads and angles. He notes that "If the
shroud angle is 12 degrees or greater, it can more easily withstand
the pressure of wind on sails without generating undue strain." (He
says elsewhere that most vessels the angle should be between 10 and
12 degrees.) It might be worth doing a quick and dirty calculation
to see what the actual angles are between your shrouds and mast.
Brion also has website offering an excellent forum on rigging and
related subjects called "Spartalk", found at
http://www.briontoss.com/spartalk/
Several of the regulars are riggers themselves with wide experience,
and Brion often provides his own comments. It's an interesting
place to visit even if you don't have standing rigging, like myself.
Cheers,
Jamie Orr
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...>
wrote:
_______________
Not being knowledgeable about standing rigging, I can't tell you
what to do, but I can suggest a good source of information -- Brion
Toss literally wrote the book on rigging. Chapter 5 of "The
Complete Rigger's Apprentice" is all about standing rigging, and
goes into detail on staying loads and angles. He notes that "If the
shroud angle is 12 degrees or greater, it can more easily withstand
the pressure of wind on sails without generating undue strain." (He
says elsewhere that most vessels the angle should be between 10 and
12 degrees.) It might be worth doing a quick and dirty calculation
to see what the actual angles are between your shrouds and mast.
Brion also has website offering an excellent forum on rigging and
related subjects called "Spartalk", found at
http://www.briontoss.com/spartalk/
Several of the regulars are riggers themselves with wide experience,
and Brion often provides his own comments. It's an interesting
place to visit even if you don't have standing rigging, like myself.
Cheers,
Jamie Orr
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...>
wrote:
>_____________________________________________________________________
> I will be setting up the mast on my little
> motorsailer for the first time in a few weeks. The
> mast is a hollow spruce stick 20' in length. It is
> stepped on the coach roof over a compression post--the
> step is probably 5' above the waterline. There is no
> spreader or back-stay. The shrouds attach to chain
> plates on the sides of the deck house, about two feet
> higher than the step. The attachment points are about
> 3' outside of the mast, and about 2.5' astern of it.
> There is a forestay, of course. My questions: are
> shrouds so closely placed to the mast sufficient to
> carry the load from the side and astern? Should I add
> a back-stay, or spreaders and lower shrouds? Is there
> a book, like Bolger's 101 sail rigs, that describes
> how to calculate loading and whether the stays are
> sufficient? Presumably, she is alright as rigged,
> but I have no idea how she has been modified over the
> years. The questions may be stupid ones, but this is
> the first time I have handled a mast near this size,
> and the close attachment points of the shrouds has me
> a little worried. Thanks. Sam
>
>
>
>
_______________
> Never Miss an Email
> Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started!
>http://mobile.yahoo.com/services?promote=mail
>
I found 'The Complete Riggers Apprentice' by Brion Toss most helpful.
Phil B , Michigan
Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote: I will be setting up the mast on my little
motorsailer for the first time in a few weeks. The
mast is a hollow spruce stick 20' in length. It is
stepped on the coach roof over a compression post--the
step is probably 5' above the waterline. There is no
spreader or back-stay. The shrouds attach to chain
plates on the sides of the deck house, about two feet
higher than the step. The attachment points are about
3' outside of the mast, and about 2.5' astern of it.
There is a forestay, of course. My questions: are
shrouds so closely placed to the mast sufficient to
carry the load from the side and astern? Should I add
a back-stay, or spreaders and lower shrouds? Is there
a book, like Bolger's 101 sail rigs, that describes
how to calculate loading and whether the stays are
sufficient? Presumably, she is alright as rigged,
but I have no idea how she has been modified over the
years. The questions may be stupid ones, but this is
the first time I have handled a mast near this size,
and the close attachment points of the shrouds has me
a little worried. Thanks. Sam
__________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Phil B , Michigan
Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote: I will be setting up the mast on my little
motorsailer for the first time in a few weeks. The
mast is a hollow spruce stick 20' in length. It is
stepped on the coach roof over a compression post--the
step is probably 5' above the waterline. There is no
spreader or back-stay. The shrouds attach to chain
plates on the sides of the deck house, about two feet
higher than the step. The attachment points are about
3' outside of the mast, and about 2.5' astern of it.
There is a forestay, of course. My questions: are
shrouds so closely placed to the mast sufficient to
carry the load from the side and astern? Should I add
a back-stay, or spreaders and lower shrouds? Is there
a book, like Bolger's 101 sail rigs, that describes
how to calculate loading and whether the stays are
sufficient? Presumably, she is alright as rigged,
but I have no idea how she has been modified over the
years. The questions may be stupid ones, but this is
the first time I have handled a mast near this size,
and the close attachment points of the shrouds has me
a little worried. Thanks. Sam
__________________________________________________________
Never Miss an Email
Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started!
http://mobile.yahoo.com/services?promote=mail
---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> a book, like Bolger's 101 sail rigs, that describesRe-read the introduction of that book. In just a few pages PCB
> how to calculate loading and whether the stays are
> sufficient?
succinctly explains it all.
(That introduction is the best summary of sail theory I have ever read.)
Identify and trace all the forces. They always balance.
Using a little math, trigonometry, you can calculate the stresses.
I will be setting up the mast on my little
motorsailer for the first time in a few weeks. The
mast is a hollow spruce stick 20' in length. It is
stepped on the coach roof over a compression post--the
step is probably 5' above the waterline. There is no
spreader or back-stay. The shrouds attach to chain
plates on the sides of the deck house, about two feet
higher than the step. The attachment points are about
3' outside of the mast, and about 2.5' astern of it.
There is a forestay, of course. My questions: are
shrouds so closely placed to the mast sufficient to
carry the load from the side and astern? Should I add
a back-stay, or spreaders and lower shrouds? Is there
a book, like Bolger's 101 sail rigs, that describes
how to calculate loading and whether the stays are
sufficient? Presumably, she is alright as rigged,
but I have no idea how she has been modified over the
years. The questions may be stupid ones, but this is
the first time I have handled a mast near this size,
and the close attachment points of the shrouds has me
a little worried. Thanks. Sam
____________________________________________________________________________________
Never Miss an Email
Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started!
http://mobile.yahoo.com/services?promote=mail
motorsailer for the first time in a few weeks. The
mast is a hollow spruce stick 20' in length. It is
stepped on the coach roof over a compression post--the
step is probably 5' above the waterline. There is no
spreader or back-stay. The shrouds attach to chain
plates on the sides of the deck house, about two feet
higher than the step. The attachment points are about
3' outside of the mast, and about 2.5' astern of it.
There is a forestay, of course. My questions: are
shrouds so closely placed to the mast sufficient to
carry the load from the side and astern? Should I add
a back-stay, or spreaders and lower shrouds? Is there
a book, like Bolger's 101 sail rigs, that describes
how to calculate loading and whether the stays are
sufficient? Presumably, she is alright as rigged,
but I have no idea how she has been modified over the
years. The questions may be stupid ones, but this is
the first time I have handled a mast near this size,
and the close attachment points of the shrouds has me
a little worried. Thanks. Sam
____________________________________________________________________________________
Never Miss an Email
Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started!
http://mobile.yahoo.com/services?promote=mail
> Having said that, I have to admit the outside chines are quickestYes, external chines are quickest and easiest. That is why the
> and easiest.
'Instant Boat' fleet uses them.
Developed by Bolger and Payson to be the easiest, cheapest 'fail safe'
way possible for first time boat builders to build their own great
boats. Just trust and follow the instructions.
(I haven't re-read these books in the last few weeks) but I recall
that even fiberglass and epoxy is optional.) These boats will work
spectacularly, on the quick and cheap, with normal woodworking glue,
and maybe a little caulking. (and if stored dry in your garage, they
can last for decades without epoxy.)
Hi
If you don't want outside chines, you don't have to have them, you
can do either of the things you suggest. Getting the inside chines
to fit will be harder, but if you read up on it you should be able
to do it. Payson's books are always good, and in his "How to Build
the Gloucester Light Dory" he discusses the three ways choices,
inside, outside and fillets. His preference is for inside, and he
provides good instructions on how to do it. Surf's chines will be
easier to install as the twists and bends will be less than the
dory. I think that's probably the most rewarding, in terms of good
looks and satisfaction. Epoxy is wonderful stuff, but nowhere near
as much fun to work with as wood.
Having said that, I have to admit the outside chines are quickest
and easiest. But I've used all three methods myself and they all
worked, just take your time and keep checking to make sure you don't
have any twist in the hull before fastening or gluing.
Good luck,
Jamie Orr
PS If you can't find instructions, email me.
If you don't want outside chines, you don't have to have them, you
can do either of the things you suggest. Getting the inside chines
to fit will be harder, but if you read up on it you should be able
to do it. Payson's books are always good, and in his "How to Build
the Gloucester Light Dory" he discusses the three ways choices,
inside, outside and fillets. His preference is for inside, and he
provides good instructions on how to do it. Surf's chines will be
easier to install as the twists and bends will be less than the
dory. I think that's probably the most rewarding, in terms of good
looks and satisfaction. Epoxy is wonderful stuff, but nowhere near
as much fun to work with as wood.
Having said that, I have to admit the outside chines are quickest
and easiest. But I've used all three methods myself and they all
worked, just take your time and keep checking to make sure you don't
have any twist in the hull before fastening or gluing.
Good luck,
Jamie Orr
PS If you can't find instructions, email me.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "m_medved" <m_medved@...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I recently received Surf plans. The plans show construction with
> exterior chine logs, a detail I somehow managed to overlook before
I
> ordered the plans. I realize I am limited in the number of models
I
> can build, due to inexperience and personal limiting factors (two
left
> thumbs), but I had really hoped to find a relatively easy to build
> model without external chine logs.
>
> Is there any way I could build this boat with internal chine
logs? Or
> better yet, can the boat be built using "fillets" in the manner of
> stitch and glue designs?
>
> I'm a first time builder, please let me know if I'm asking for
trouble.
>
For what it's worth, I built my first boat, a Windsprint -- which is
supposed to have external chine logs -- in the stitch-and-glue manner
with no chine logs. It turned out fine.
If you go that route you'll need to somehow make sure the sides
spring to the proper curve -- something the chine logs do for you
automatically. If the plans don't include precise bottom panel
measurements (some are just "cut to fit"), then you may need to
actually temporarily spring on chine logs to get the proper shape,
then trace your bottom panel shapes (subtracting the width of the
chine log). Then proceed with S&G.
Be sure to keep all your bulkhead centerlines in a straight line,
untwisted, etc.
It's a bit of extra work for a small aesthetic gain. And it might be
argued there's a functional loss -- you may lose the "grip" provided
by the chine log that helps prevent leeway.
All of which is to say -- it CAN be done.
Either way, good luck! Surf looks like a wonderful, simple, very
useful boat.
All best,
Garth
P.S. For yet another wrinkle, if you want to try interior chine logs,
read Reuel Parker's "The Sharpie Book."
supposed to have external chine logs -- in the stitch-and-glue manner
with no chine logs. It turned out fine.
If you go that route you'll need to somehow make sure the sides
spring to the proper curve -- something the chine logs do for you
automatically. If the plans don't include precise bottom panel
measurements (some are just "cut to fit"), then you may need to
actually temporarily spring on chine logs to get the proper shape,
then trace your bottom panel shapes (subtracting the width of the
chine log). Then proceed with S&G.
Be sure to keep all your bulkhead centerlines in a straight line,
untwisted, etc.
It's a bit of extra work for a small aesthetic gain. And it might be
argued there's a functional loss -- you may lose the "grip" provided
by the chine log that helps prevent leeway.
All of which is to say -- it CAN be done.
Either way, good luck! Surf looks like a wonderful, simple, very
useful boat.
All best,
Garth
P.S. For yet another wrinkle, if you want to try interior chine logs,
read Reuel Parker's "The Sharpie Book."
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "m_medved" <m_medved@...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I recently received Surf plans. The plans show construction with
> exterior chine logs, a detail I somehow managed to overlook before I
> ordered the plans. I realize I am limited in the number of models I
> can build, due to inexperience and personal limiting factors (two left
> thumbs), but I had really hoped to find a relatively easy to build
> model without external chine logs.
>
> Is there any way I could build this boat with internal chine logs? Or
> better yet, can the boat be built using "fillets" in the manner of
> stitch and glue designs?
>
> I'm a first time builder, please let me know if I'm asking for trouble.
>
Hmm two left thumbs... It must be hell to hold a
hammer or any hand tool for that matter! (Just giving
you a bad time. But I know the feeling as well)
There are a number of book out there that tell and
show you how to convert to stich and glue. But seeing
how this is YOUR FIRST BOAT it would be wise to build
it to plan. Also the exterior chinelogs can be simpler
to build as well.
Face it, it's your first boat so you are just getting
your hands wet. So this is going to be your learning
boat so keep it simple and enjoy the fun of building!
If this one doesn't come out just right, give it to a
friend and build one more and use what you learned on
the first one and not make the same mistakes.
The big thing is have fun doing it! And when you make
an OOPS don't get down on yourself. Remember you are
at the bottom of a learning curve.
Blessings Krissie
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL
hammer or any hand tool for that matter! (Just giving
you a bad time. But I know the feeling as well)
There are a number of book out there that tell and
show you how to convert to stich and glue. But seeing
how this is YOUR FIRST BOAT it would be wise to build
it to plan. Also the exterior chinelogs can be simpler
to build as well.
Face it, it's your first boat so you are just getting
your hands wet. So this is going to be your learning
boat so keep it simple and enjoy the fun of building!
If this one doesn't come out just right, give it to a
friend and build one more and use what you learned on
the first one and not make the same mistakes.
The big thing is have fun doing it! And when you make
an OOPS don't get down on yourself. Remember you are
at the bottom of a learning curve.
Blessings Krissie
> Hello,____________________________________________________________________________________
>
> I recently received Surf plans. The plans show
> construction with
> exterior chine logs, a detail I somehow managed to
> overlook before I
> ordered the plans. I realize I am limited in the
> number of models I
> can build, due to inexperience and personal limiting
> factors (two left
> thumbs), but I had really hoped to find a relatively
> easy to build
> model without external chine logs.
>
> Is there any way I could build this boat with
> internal chine logs? Or
> better yet, can the boat be built using "fillets" in
> the manner of
> stitch and glue designs?
>
> I'm a first time builder, please let me know if I'm
> asking for trouble.
>
>
>
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL
Personally, I find external chine logs to be easier than internal
chine logs. Your experience may vary, but typically, for fewest
headaches, it is wise for first time builders to 'exactly' follow the
plans.
By the way, Surf is a great first boat, keep us up to date on your progress.
chine logs. Your experience may vary, but typically, for fewest
headaches, it is wise for first time builders to 'exactly' follow the
plans.
By the way, Surf is a great first boat, keep us up to date on your progress.
Hello,
I recently received Surf plans. The plans show construction with
exterior chine logs, a detail I somehow managed to overlook before I
ordered the plans. I realize I am limited in the number of models I
can build, due to inexperience and personal limiting factors (two left
thumbs), but I had really hoped to find a relatively easy to build
model without external chine logs.
Is there any way I could build this boat with internal chine logs? Or
better yet, can the boat be built using "fillets" in the manner of
stitch and glue designs?
I'm a first time builder, please let me know if I'm asking for trouble.
I recently received Surf plans. The plans show construction with
exterior chine logs, a detail I somehow managed to overlook before I
ordered the plans. I realize I am limited in the number of models I
can build, due to inexperience and personal limiting factors (two left
thumbs), but I had really hoped to find a relatively easy to build
model without external chine logs.
Is there any way I could build this boat with internal chine logs? Or
better yet, can the boat be built using "fillets" in the manner of
stitch and glue designs?
I'm a first time builder, please let me know if I'm asking for trouble.