[bolger] Re: Farrier's Rasp

"william d> jochems" <wjochem-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=528
> Dear Bolgeristas,
> I just discovered a tool I wish I'd know about long ago, the
farrier's rasp. The one I bought for $14.95 has working surfaces 14"by
2" and the big toothed side can remove material nearly as fast as a
large belt sander with 40 grit and is much more controllable. So far
I've used mine on doug fir and pine; but I think it would do a better
job on end grain plywood than a shurform.


I have two, use them all the time, and they're great. Another tack
store tool is the "hoof trimming knife", which is something like a bent
scraper. Back is flat. I use mine for various scraping tasks and stuff
like scraping the coating off bamboo. Cost less than $5.
Hey Bill,

Where did you find this lovely thing for 15 bucks? Sounds like a good
tool to add to my Christmas wish list.

My favorite Bolger tool so far is a "sheet rock square" I think it's
called. Got mine for something reasonable at Home Depot few years back,
don't remember what I paid, but believe it was under 20 bucks.

What it is is a nice T square (really is and stays square too) with
about a foot of ruler on the "T" top and a full 4 feet of inches,
eighths and sixteenths too along the edge. Makes lofting out those big
plywood sheets a snap to get accurate.

I mark down the 8 foot edge every foot, then run the square down and
mark off the points per the plans. I re-write the points on a small
sheet of paper so I can see em all and check of as I go. Then I go back
and check each one measured point, circle it as it’s checked. Then it's
on to the lofting baton and pencil in the line.

Works like a charm.

Enjoy


"william d> jochems" <wjochem-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=528
> Dear Bolgeristas,
> I just discovered a tool I wish I'd know about long ago, the
farrier's rasp. The one I bought for $14.95 has working surfaces 14"by
2" and the big toothed side can remove material nearly as fast as a
large belt sander with 40 grit and is much more controllable. So far
I've used mine on doug fir and pine; but I think it would do a better
job on end grain plywood than a shurform. The steel may be a softer
grade than a wood rasp; but at the price they are reasonably replaced
when they grow dull. Check one out at your nearest farm and ranch
supply store.
> Bill Jochems
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chuck Leinweber <duckworks@...>
> To:bolger@egroups.com<bolger@egroups.com>
> Date: Friday, October 15, 1999 9:10 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Tennessee Questions for Chuck - #1
>
>
> >Don:
> >
> >It is good to hear from you, and I am glad you are finally ready to
start
> >building your Tennessee.
> >
> >I built the whole boat per the plans except for building the decks
out of
> >1/2" ply. These were quite solid, and the 3/8 ths specified might
have been
> >enough. On the other hand, I considered using 1/4 on the bulkheads,
and I
> >think that might have been sufficient. At any rate, the 3/8 ths
seems very
> >solid. The sides are OK too. The bottom is the only part that I
wish I had
> >beefed up. The problem is that it oil cans when going over waves.
If you
> >stand in the middle of the cockpit, it is quite pronounced. I
probably
> >would have been better if I had run 2x4 stringers along the cockpit
floor
> >which would have been the foundation of the bench seats on either
side. The
> >plans sort of show this, but they are vague. The floor everywhere
else is
> >fine.
> >
> >What Phil says about is keeping it light is interesting. I have
always kept
> >mine that way out of personal preference, but I thought more weight
would
> >not significantly affect performance.
> >
> >Keep us posted on your progress, Don.
> >
> >Chuck
> >
> >
> >
> >> I received my "Tennessee" plans from Phil Bolger today, along with
a nice
> >> note encouraging me to build and equip her "light" to preserve her
> >> performance. He also encouraged questions, but this one can be
answered
> >by
> >> a builder/owner perhaps better than the designer:
> >>
> >> If I'm interpreting the plans right, they call for 3/8
bulkheads
> >as
> >> well as 3/8 planking.
> >> I have assumed the bulkheads would be 3/4 or 5/8 for more
> >stiffness.
> >> If you built the
> >> Tenn with 3/8 bulkheads, did you think they were adequate
or would
> >> she have been
> >> improved with heavier bulkheads? I'm still planning on
using her
> >in
> >> pretty open waters
> >> on occasion.
> >>
> >> Don Hodges
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------
------
> >>
> >> eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
> >>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
Dear Bolgeristas,
   I just discovered a tool I wish I'd know about long ago, the farrier's rasp. The one I bought for $14.95 has working surfaces 14"by 2" and the big toothed side can remove material nearly as  fast as a large belt sander with 40 grit and is much more controllable. So far I've used mine on doug fir and pine; but I think it would do a better job on end grain plywood than a shurform. The steel may be a softer grade than a wood rasp; but at the price they are reasonably replaced when they grow dull. Check one out at your nearest farm and ranch supply store.
Bill Jochems
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Leinweber <duckworks@...>
To:bolger@egroups.com<bolger@egroups.com>
Date: Friday, October 15, 1999 9:10 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Tennessee Questions for Chuck - #1

>Don:
>
>It is good to hear from you, and I am glad you are finally ready to start
>building your
Tennessee.
>
>I built the whole boat per the plans except for
building the decks out of
>1/2" ply.  These were quite solid,
and the 3/8 ths specified might have been
>enough.  On the other
hand, I considered using 1/4 on the bulkheads, and I
>think that might
have been sufficient.  At any rate, the 3/8 ths seems very
>solid.  The sides are OK too.  The bottom is the only part
that I wish I had
>beefed up.  The problem is that it oil cans when
going over waves.  If you
>stand in the middle of the cockpit, it is
quite pronounced.  I probably
>would have been better if I had run
2x4 stringers along the cockpit floor
>which would have been the
foundation of the bench seats on either side.  The
>plans sort of
show this, but they are vague.  The floor everywhere else is
>fine.
>
>What Phil says about is keeping it light is
interesting.  I have always kept
>mine that way out of personal
preference, but I thought more weight would
>not significantly affect
performance.
>
>Keep us posted on your progress,
Don.
>
>Chuck
>
>
>
>> I received my
"Tennessee" plans from Phil Bolger today, along with a nice
>> note encouraging me to build and equip her "light" to
preserve her
>> performance.  He also encouraged questions, but
this one can be answered
>by
>> a builder/owner perhaps better
than the designer:
>>
>>        
If I'm interpreting the plans right, they call for 3/8 bulkheads
>as
>> well as 3/8
planking.
>>         I have
assumed the bulkheads would be 3/4 or 5/8 for more
>stiffness.
>>
If you built the
>>        
Tenn with 3/8 bulkheads, did you think they were adequate or would
>>
she have been
>>        
improved with heavier bulkheads?  I'm still planning on using her
>in
>> pretty open
waters
>>         on
occasion.
>>
>> Don Hodges
>>
>>
>>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
>>
http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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>
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