Re: More on trailers..........
Larry,
Of course you are correct in your assertion, but the original post was
about a 25' Black Skimmer on a too short trailer, and I assumed
(that's a bad habit to break) a 3500 pound hitch with a 2" ball and
3/4 inch bolt (class II) ; and most of these hitches I have seen
specify a max tongue weight of 300 pounds.
See:http://www.hitches4less.com/trailer-hitch-classes.html
Lewis
Of course you are correct in your assertion, but the original post was
about a 25' Black Skimmer on a too short trailer, and I assumed
(that's a bad habit to break) a 3500 pound hitch with a 2" ball and
3/4 inch bolt (class II) ; and most of these hitches I have seen
specify a max tongue weight of 300 pounds.
See:http://www.hitches4less.com/trailer-hitch-classes.html
Lewis
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "larryhsmuffin" <lhsmith@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Lewis E. Gordon"
> <l_gordon_nica@> wrote:
> >
> > Sorry to join in late, but I'll add on to Clyde's comments; The
> ROT is
> > for minimum of 10% of the combined trailer and cargo (boat)
> weight to rest on the hitch, not to exceed 300 pounds.
> > Lewis
>
> Do not understand the 300# statement.
>
> The 10% (approximate) tongue weight is a generally accepted
> figure. The max tongue weight is a factor of the capacity of the
> vehicle, ...300# is not an absolute limit, but one which may result
> from a particular tow vehicle's limitations.
>
> Heavy trailer boats are towed,...say 6-8,000 # (not to mention a
> huge variety of heavier utility trailers). An adequate vehicle is
> required. Such a vehicle would not have a 300# hitch limit.
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Lewis E. Gordon"
<l_gordon_nica@...> wrote:
The 10% (approximate) tongue weight is a generally accepted
figure. The max tongue weight is a factor of the capacity of the
vehicle, ...300# is not an absolute limit, but one which may result
from a particular tow vehicle's limitations.
Heavy trailer boats are towed,...say 6-8,000 # (not to mention a
huge variety of heavier utility trailers). An adequate vehicle is
required. Such a vehicle would not have a 300# hitch limit.
<l_gordon_nica@...> wrote:
>ROT is
> Sorry to join in late, but I'll add on to Clyde's comments; The
> for minimum of 10% of the combined trailer and cargo (boat)weight to rest on the hitch, not to exceed 300 pounds.
> LewisDo not understand the 300# statement.
The 10% (approximate) tongue weight is a generally accepted
figure. The max tongue weight is a factor of the capacity of the
vehicle, ...300# is not an absolute limit, but one which may result
from a particular tow vehicle's limitations.
Heavy trailer boats are towed,...say 6-8,000 # (not to mention a
huge variety of heavier utility trailers). An adequate vehicle is
required. Such a vehicle would not have a 300# hitch limit.
Bill,
I think the back third of just about anything is fine as long as it's
truly self supporting, does not have a heavy motor, and includes a
light bar all the way aft. I do not believe the rules for how far an
object can stick out from the rear of a vehicle apply.
My 15 footer does not look fearfully unusual this way. The little
harbor freight utility trailer has a 3' bed. The boat is well
supported amidships, running 6' ahead over a lengthened tongue and 6'
behind.
Mark
I think the back third of just about anything is fine as long as it's
truly self supporting, does not have a heavy motor, and includes a
light bar all the way aft. I do not believe the rules for how far an
object can stick out from the rear of a vehicle apply.
My 15 footer does not look fearfully unusual this way. The little
harbor freight utility trailer has a 3' bed. The boat is well
supported amidships, running 6' ahead over a lengthened tongue and 6'
behind.
Mark
On Apr 14, 2007, at 10:19 AM, urbanrocket wrote:
> No - takers?
>
> I'll try one more time: is there a maximum limit (besides weight
> distribution issues) for how
> much of a sailboat can extend off of the rear of a trailer?
>
> Any input is appreciated.
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "urbanrocket" <williambennie@...>
> wrote:
>>
>> I have a naive question - how large of a trailer would I need for
>> a 25' black skimmer? I saw
>> recent pics where the rear of a trailer didn't seem to extend much
>> beyond the halfway point
>> of a BS. How much boat hanging over the rear end of a trailer is
>> typical?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bill
>>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging
> dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
> posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
Re: Rudders banging around when the boat is on the trailer. Remove that
heavy chunk of wood/metal (Mine is wood, with a lead weight so I don't have to
fool with the clamp bolt under way>)
I take the rod out of the pintles (Bolger eyes) and toss it all in to the
boat.
************************************** See what's free athttp://www.aol.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
heavy chunk of wood/metal (Mine is wood, with a lead weight so I don't have to
fool with the clamp bolt under way>)
I take the rod out of the pintles (Bolger eyes) and toss it all in to the
boat.
************************************** See what's free athttp://www.aol.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I couldn't find any mention of the rudder in #16, but in #15 there was talk of a bushing on the piece that forms the mizzen partners. My design for that is still open. It wouldn't be that much of a problem to add a bushing to bear the weight, but it would be one more thing to remove when "unstepping" the rudder. Belts and suspenders maybe, but ... why not? I'm thinking HDPE for that too. (I bought a 3" wide strip to make the plug for the bottom of the rudder stock. It only took two tries to get close enough so there's a lot left over.)
All that work to make a friction free pivot, and then I'll have to add a Tiller Tamer or a tiller comb so I can pour coffee. Hmmph.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
All that work to make a friction free pivot, and then I'll have to add a Tiller Tamer or a tiller comb so I can pour coffee. Hmmph.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: bh100014
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 12:00 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: More on trailers..........
That's exactly why I redeisgned the rudder mount. See Chebacco
issue#16. I was concerned that the bottom-mount is not strong enough
for trailering. I changed the design to have the rudder stock riding
on the transom backbone on a bushing. It's extremely strong.
Ben
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@> wrote:
> >
> > This rudder isn't mounted outboard, and the "pintle" isn't quite
the
> same as most.
> >
> >http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/RudderDetail.html
> >
> I wonder if a bolt installed crossways, right at the end of the
arrow
> shown in the pintel photo would be worthwhile?
>
> Nels
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thanks.
In my head, it wasn't that big when I started.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
In my head, it wasn't that big when I started.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: David
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Cc: derbyrm
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] More on trailers..........
Roger - nice pictures. I love the chebacco boats -- I wish I had the guts to build something that big.
David C
---- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
> This rudder isn't mounted outboard, and the "pintle" isn't quite the same as most.
>
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/RudderDetail.html
>
> and
>
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.html(mid-page)
>
> Removing it requires taking out four bolts that are better left undisturbed and lowering the entire rudder and shaft from the elevated boat after unbolting the tiller.
>
> Roger (d'Yawl is a yawl.)
>derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 9:35 AM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] More on trailers..........
>
>
> I always remove the rudder for trailering.
> Why leave it hanging out there where it might get damaged, when it takes but a second to slip it on?
>
> DC
>
> ---- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
> > And a related question: I've been worrying about the attachment of the lower pintle and the possible need to support it against the pounding of the rudder while on the road. (It supports the full weight of the rudder, rudder shaft, and tiller.)
> >
> > Roger
> >derbyrm@...
> >http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: urbanrocket
> > To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 2:45 PM
> > Subject: [bolger] More on trailers..........
> >
> >
> > I have a naive question - how large of a trailer would I need for a 25' black skimmer? I saw
> > recent pics where the rear of a trailer didn't seem to extend much beyond the halfway point
> > of a BS. How much boat hanging over the rear end of a trailer is typical?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Maybe.
There will be four 1/4-20 SS machine screws thru the wall of the channel and threaded into the tapped wood/epoxy hole. Since they're in shear the loading might be OK. A thru-bolt would increase the area a little. Since the holes are staggered, I could still drill and tap the opposite side and avoid an exterior nut. Low drag you know. ;-) The keel/deadwood is built up from Douglas Fir which is fairly hard compared to spruce or "white wood."
A twelve foot long "2x12" would support the straight portion of the keel and extend aft far enough to go under the "pintle." I've been oscillating between rollers and HDPE pads embedded in the timber. I've got my son keeping an eye out for a hunk of 3x3 box beam to make a third cross-member for the trailer.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
There will be four 1/4-20 SS machine screws thru the wall of the channel and threaded into the tapped wood/epoxy hole. Since they're in shear the loading might be OK. A thru-bolt would increase the area a little. Since the holes are staggered, I could still drill and tap the opposite side and avoid an exterior nut. Low drag you know. ;-) The keel/deadwood is built up from Douglas Fir which is fairly hard compared to spruce or "white wood."
A twelve foot long "2x12" would support the straight portion of the keel and extend aft far enough to go under the "pintle." I've been oscillating between rollers and HDPE pads embedded in the timber. I've got my son keeping an eye out for a hunk of 3x3 box beam to make a third cross-member for the trailer.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Nels
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 11:29 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: More on trailers..........
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> This rudder isn't mounted outboard, and the "pintle" isn't quite the
same as most.
>
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/RudderDetail.html
>
I wonder if a bolt installed crossways, right at the end of the arrow
shown in the pintel photo would be worthwhile?
Nels
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "bh100014" <ben.ho@...> wrote:
rudderpost - just below the tiller?
That would take some of the weight. Also remove the tiller when
traveling and replace with a spear head sticking up vertically:-)
Nels
>Is there enough space to install such a flange at the top of the
> That's exactly why I redeisgned the rudder mount. See Chebacco
> issue#16. I was concerned that the bottom-mount is not strong enough
> for trailering. I changed the design to have the rudder stock riding
> on the transom backbone on a bushing. It's extremely strong.
>
> Ben
rudderpost - just below the tiller?
That would take some of the weight. Also remove the tiller when
traveling and replace with a spear head sticking up vertically:-)
Nels
Roger - nice pictures. I love the chebacco boats -- I wish I had the guts to build something that big.
David C
---- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
David C
---- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
> This rudder isn't mounted outboard, and the "pintle" isn't quite the same as most.
>
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/RudderDetail.html
>
> and
>
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.html(mid-page)
>
> Removing it requires taking out four bolts that are better left undisturbed and lowering the entire rudder and shaft from the elevated boat after unbolting the tiller.
>
> Roger (d'Yawl is a yawl.)
>derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 9:35 AM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] More on trailers..........
>
>
> I always remove the rudder for trailering.
> Why leave it hanging out there where it might get damaged, when it takes but a second to slip it on?
>
> DC
>
> ---- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
> > And a related question: I've been worrying about the attachment of the lower pintle and the possible need to support it against the pounding of the rudder while on the road. (It supports the full weight of the rudder, rudder shaft, and tiller.)
> >
> > Roger
> >derbyrm@...
> >http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: urbanrocket
> > To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 2:45 PM
> > Subject: [bolger] More on trailers..........
> >
> >
> > I have a naive question - how large of a trailer would I need for a 25' black skimmer? I saw
> > recent pics where the rear of a trailer didn't seem to extend much beyond the halfway point
> > of a BS. How much boat hanging over the rear end of a trailer is typical?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
That's exactly why I redeisgned the rudder mount. See Chebacco
issue#16. I was concerned that the bottom-mount is not strong enough
for trailering. I changed the design to have the rudder stock riding
on the transom backbone on a bushing. It's extremely strong.
Ben
issue#16. I was concerned that the bottom-mount is not strong enough
for trailering. I changed the design to have the rudder stock riding
on the transom backbone on a bushing. It's extremely strong.
Ben
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@> wrote:
> >
> > This rudder isn't mounted outboard, and the "pintle" isn't quite
the
> same as most.
> >
> >http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/RudderDetail.html
> >
> I wonder if a bolt installed crossways, right at the end of the
arrow
> shown in the pintel photo would be worthwhile?
>
> Nels
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
shown in the pintel photo would be worthwhile?
Nels
>same as most.
> This rudder isn't mounted outboard, and the "pintle" isn't quite the
>I wonder if a bolt installed crossways, right at the end of the arrow
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/RudderDetail.html
>
shown in the pintel photo would be worthwhile?
Nels
This rudder isn't mounted outboard, and the "pintle" isn't quite the same as most.
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/RudderDetail.html
and
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.html(mid-page)
Removing it requires taking out four bolts that are better left undisturbed and lowering the entire rudder and shaft from the elevated boat after unbolting the tiller.
Roger (d'Yawl is a yawl.)
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/RudderDetail.html
and
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.html(mid-page)
Removing it requires taking out four bolts that are better left undisturbed and lowering the entire rudder and shaft from the elevated boat after unbolting the tiller.
Roger (d'Yawl is a yawl.)
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: David
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] More on trailers..........
I always remove the rudder for trailering.
Why leave it hanging out there where it might get damaged, when it takes but a second to slip it on?
DC
---- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
> And a related question: I've been worrying about the attachment of the lower pintle and the possible need to support it against the pounding of the rudder while on the road. (It supports the full weight of the rudder, rudder shaft, and tiller.)
>
> Roger
>derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: urbanrocket
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 2:45 PM
> Subject: [bolger] More on trailers..........
>
>
> I have a naive question - how large of a trailer would I need for a 25' black skimmer? I saw
> recent pics where the rear of a trailer didn't seem to extend much beyond the halfway point
> of a BS. How much boat hanging over the rear end of a trailer is typical?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
A quick trip to the barn and an old kitchen scale yields eleven pounds.
That was a very good question.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
That was a very good question.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Nels
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 9:07 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: More on trailers..........
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> And a related question: I've been worrying about the attachment of
the lower pintle and the possible need to support it against the
pounding of the rudder while on the road. (It supports the full
weight of the rudder, rudder shaft, and tiller.)
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
Perhaps a judiciously tightened tie-down strap, or a sort of sling
held by bungies - taking some of the weight off - which would also
prevent it from flopping around? What is the weight of the rudder
asemmbly?
Nels
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I always remove the rudder for trailering.
Why leave it hanging out there where it might get damaged, when it takes but a second to slip it on?
DC
---- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
Why leave it hanging out there where it might get damaged, when it takes but a second to slip it on?
DC
---- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
> And a related question: I've been worrying about the attachment of the lower pintle and the possible need to support it against the pounding of the rudder while on the road. (It supports the full weight of the rudder, rudder shaft, and tiller.)
>
> Roger
>derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: urbanrocket
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 2:45 PM
> Subject: [bolger] More on trailers..........
>
>
> I have a naive question - how large of a trailer would I need for a 25' black skimmer? I saw
> recent pics where the rear of a trailer didn't seem to extend much beyond the halfway point
> of a BS. How much boat hanging over the rear end of a trailer is typical?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
pounding of the rudder while on the road. (It supports the full
weight of the rudder, rudder shaft, and tiller.)
held by bungies - taking some of the weight off - which would also
prevent it from flopping around? What is the weight of the rudder
asemmbly?
Nels
>the lower pintle and the possible need to support it against the
> And a related question: I've been worrying about the attachment of
pounding of the rudder while on the road. (It supports the full
weight of the rudder, rudder shaft, and tiller.)
>Perhaps a judiciously tightened tie-down strap, or a sort of sling
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
held by bungies - taking some of the weight off - which would also
prevent it from flopping around? What is the weight of the rudder
asemmbly?
Nels
Light bars Yes! I have seen supposed "water proof" lights and brackets rust
out in sea water. Maybe when the driver forgot to "pull the plug" and let
current flow into the brake lights when submerged. But a light bar that can be
removed and laid aside before launching saves a lot of grief.
Bolger, Payson Car topper
14-9 foot Swifty
John Meacham
************************************** See what's free athttp://www.aol.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
out in sea water. Maybe when the driver forgot to "pull the plug" and let
current flow into the brake lights when submerged. But a light bar that can be
removed and laid aside before launching saves a lot of grief.
Bolger, Payson Car topper
14-9 foot Swifty
John Meacham
************************************** See what's free athttp://www.aol.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I got an Equal-i-zer hitch for our Cormorant trailer last summer. Not
because we had side-to-side sway problems, but because of up-and-down
motion being transmitted from the trailer to the car after going over
some pothole or other bump in the road. The Equal-i-zer does a great
job smoothing those out -- and I suppose there's even less chance of
sway now. Anyway -- just a vote of confidence for those hitches. And
they're good because they're the only weight-distributing hitch
that'll allow use of hydraulic trailer brake actuators.
For what it's worth, our Cormorant trailer is 30' long for a 31' boat.
I built the whole thing long just out of paranoia about too much
overhang. The winch post is probably a foot back of the coupler ball,
so 2 feet of boat hang over the end of the steel part of the trailer.
I have crosswise bunks built to match the height of the bottom rocker
at four different bulkheads, with longitudinal 2x8s bent onto those,
and extending out the extra 2 feet past the aftmost horizontal bunk.
So the boat is tenderly cradled for its whole length. . . . I also
tuned the shocks very close to exactly the boat weight. I have two
Torflex 9 axles, each good to 2200 lbs. Total weight of boat and gear
and trailer on top of them is probably just about 4000 lbs. It's a
very smooth ride. Our tongue weight is about 400 lbs.
One disadvantage of having the long trailer is maneuvering and parking
it in a crowded launch area parking lot. I haven't been sized out of
any place yet -- but it's always a possibility. I usually schedule our
trips to begin on a Thursday or early Friday so we get the pick of the
parking spots. Then I feel a strong obligation to push the tail of the
trailer as far back into the bushes as possible, and once busted a
taillight doing that. Sometimes when returning from multi-day trips,
with new cars and trailers arranged all around the lot, getting back
out of your parking spot is tricky, too -- though that can happen with
any length trailer, depending on the foresight and courtesy of your
fellow boaters.
Garth
P.S. While I'm thinking about trailers -- has anyone ever tried
Boeshield T-9 anti-corrosion spray? I recently heard about it and
bought a can. I'll give it a try this summer on various rust-prone
parts of the trailer -- brake mechanisms, axles, wiring connections, etc.
because we had side-to-side sway problems, but because of up-and-down
motion being transmitted from the trailer to the car after going over
some pothole or other bump in the road. The Equal-i-zer does a great
job smoothing those out -- and I suppose there's even less chance of
sway now. Anyway -- just a vote of confidence for those hitches. And
they're good because they're the only weight-distributing hitch
that'll allow use of hydraulic trailer brake actuators.
For what it's worth, our Cormorant trailer is 30' long for a 31' boat.
I built the whole thing long just out of paranoia about too much
overhang. The winch post is probably a foot back of the coupler ball,
so 2 feet of boat hang over the end of the steel part of the trailer.
I have crosswise bunks built to match the height of the bottom rocker
at four different bulkheads, with longitudinal 2x8s bent onto those,
and extending out the extra 2 feet past the aftmost horizontal bunk.
So the boat is tenderly cradled for its whole length. . . . I also
tuned the shocks very close to exactly the boat weight. I have two
Torflex 9 axles, each good to 2200 lbs. Total weight of boat and gear
and trailer on top of them is probably just about 4000 lbs. It's a
very smooth ride. Our tongue weight is about 400 lbs.
One disadvantage of having the long trailer is maneuvering and parking
it in a crowded launch area parking lot. I haven't been sized out of
any place yet -- but it's always a possibility. I usually schedule our
trips to begin on a Thursday or early Friday so we get the pick of the
parking spots. Then I feel a strong obligation to push the tail of the
trailer as far back into the bushes as possible, and once busted a
taillight doing that. Sometimes when returning from multi-day trips,
with new cars and trailers arranged all around the lot, getting back
out of your parking spot is tricky, too -- though that can happen with
any length trailer, depending on the foresight and courtesy of your
fellow boaters.
Garth
P.S. While I'm thinking about trailers -- has anyone ever tried
Boeshield T-9 anti-corrosion spray? I recently heard about it and
bought a can. I'll give it a try this summer on various rust-prone
parts of the trailer -- brake mechanisms, axles, wiring connections, etc.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Chester Young" <chester@...> wrote:
>
> Bob Slimak had an equalizer on his hitch and he hooked it even for
the short
> trip to the ramp and back. He tows a Bantam (Drifter) with a Kia
van (front
> wheel drive) and commented that he would not think of towing without it.
>
>
>
> Caloosarat
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of
> Nels
> Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 2:24 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: More on trailers..........
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@yahoogroups. <mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com> com,
"Lewis E.
> Gordon" <l_gordon_nica@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Sorry to join in late, but I'll add on to Clyde's comments; The ROT
> is
> > for minimum of 10% of the combined trailer and cargo (boat) weight to
> > rest on the hitch, not to exceed 300 pounds. The light bar and
> > structural concerns have already been addressed. The side to side
> sway
> > is not limited to FWD vehicles, my old 1/2 ton pick-up could sway
> with
> > the best of them!
> >
> > Lewis
> >
> If one has more than 300 pounds on the hitch - these are amazing
> gizmos and prevent any trailer sway in my experience.
>
>http://www.pplmotor
> <http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-hitches/equalizer-trailer->
> homes.com/parts/rv-hitches/equalizer-trailer-
> hitch.htm
>
> Nels
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
That deppens on the state you are in. Here in
Washington state it's 6 feet past the bumper or bed
and over hang must be flaged.
But I have also seen Boeing Aircraft trucks with 15 to
20 feet of overhang. But they are flaged and signed
"oversize load".
Blessings Krissie
--- urbanrocket <williambennie@...> wrote:
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Washington state it's 6 feet past the bumper or bed
and over hang must be flaged.
But I have also seen Boeing Aircraft trucks with 15 to
20 feet of overhang. But they are flaged and signed
"oversize load".
Blessings Krissie
--- urbanrocket <williambennie@...> wrote:
> No - takers?__________________________________________________
>
> I'll try one more time: is there a maximum limit
> (besides weight distribution issues) for how
> much of a sailboat can extend off of the rear of a
> trailer?
>
> Any input is appreciated.
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "urbanrocket"
> <williambennie@...> wrote:
> >
> > I have a naive question - how large of a trailer
> would I need for a 25' black skimmer? I saw
> > recent pics where the rear of a trailer didn't
> seem to extend much beyond the halfway point
> > of a BS. How much boat hanging over the rear end
> of a trailer is typical?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bill
> >
>
>
>
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Bob Slimak had an equalizer on his hitch and he hooked it even for the short
trip to the ramp and back. He tows a Bantam (Drifter) with a Kia van (front
wheel drive) and commented that he would not think of towing without it.
Caloosarat
_____
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Nels
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 2:24 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: More on trailers..........
--- In bolger@yahoogroups. <mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com> com, "Lewis E.
Gordon" <l_gordon_nica@...>
wrote:
gizmos and prevent any trailer sway in my experience.
http://www.pplmotor
<http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-hitches/equalizer-trailer->
homes.com/parts/rv-hitches/equalizer-trailer-
hitch.htm
Nels
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
trip to the ramp and back. He tows a Bantam (Drifter) with a Kia van (front
wheel drive) and commented that he would not think of towing without it.
Caloosarat
_____
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Nels
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 2:24 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: More on trailers..........
--- In bolger@yahoogroups. <mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com> com, "Lewis E.
Gordon" <l_gordon_nica@...>
wrote:
>is
> Sorry to join in late, but I'll add on to Clyde's comments; The ROT
> for minimum of 10% of the combined trailer and cargo (boat) weight tosway
> rest on the hitch, not to exceed 300 pounds. The light bar and
> structural concerns have already been addressed. The side to side
> is not limited to FWD vehicles, my old 1/2 ton pick-up could swaywith
> the best of them!If one has more than 300 pounds on the hitch - these are amazing
>
> Lewis
>
gizmos and prevent any trailer sway in my experience.
http://www.pplmotor
<http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-hitches/equalizer-trailer->
homes.com/parts/rv-hitches/equalizer-trailer-
hitch.htm
Nels
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Lewis E. Gordon" <l_gordon_nica@...>
wrote:
gizmos and prevent any trailer sway in my experience.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-hitches/equalizer-trailer-
hitch.htm
Nels
wrote:
>is
> Sorry to join in late, but I'll add on to Clyde's comments; The ROT
> for minimum of 10% of the combined trailer and cargo (boat) weight tosway
> rest on the hitch, not to exceed 300 pounds. The light bar and
> structural concerns have already been addressed. The side to side
> is not limited to FWD vehicles, my old 1/2 ton pick-up could swaywith
> the best of them!If one has more than 300 pounds on the hitch - these are amazing
>
> Lewis
>
gizmos and prevent any trailer sway in my experience.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-hitches/equalizer-trailer-
hitch.htm
Nels
On its trailer my Tennessee sits on a pair of bunks with approximately 8
left hanging over. It frequently has 10 gallons of gas (sitting about 4
forward of the transom) along with a 25hp 4-stroke (140 lbs outboard of the
transom) and there are some misc items in the aft hatch too. I watched for
about three years prior to obtaining her as she sat on the same trailer in
the side yard of the prior owner. I see no change over the last 16 months
as to the rocker in her bottom. I would agree that the box lends itself
well to a trailer. All of that being said I have not trailed her farther
than my local ramp, less than ½ mile round trip. I have launched and
retrieved at least 30 times in the last 16 months. I do have a light bar
that mounts very near the transom on the Esther Mae for legal road use, but
I have only used it strapped to the end of the trailer to haul materials so
far.
Caloosarat
_____
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
oarmandt
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2007 6:20 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: More on trailers..........
For my Birdwatcher, 6' of boat extends beyond the end of the trailer.
This much has not been a problem. I do use a light bar fastened just
forward of the rudder post. There is no outboard on my boat.
My trailer looked a bit short, so I made a sub-frame of PT lumber that
sicks out 2' beyond the back end of the metal frame. The stern of my
boat is 8' beyond the end of the metal frame.
Doug
--- In bolger@yahoogroups. <mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com> com,
"urbanrocket" <williambennie@...> wrote:
left hanging over. It frequently has 10 gallons of gas (sitting about 4
forward of the transom) along with a 25hp 4-stroke (140 lbs outboard of the
transom) and there are some misc items in the aft hatch too. I watched for
about three years prior to obtaining her as she sat on the same trailer in
the side yard of the prior owner. I see no change over the last 16 months
as to the rocker in her bottom. I would agree that the box lends itself
well to a trailer. All of that being said I have not trailed her farther
than my local ramp, less than ½ mile round trip. I have launched and
retrieved at least 30 times in the last 16 months. I do have a light bar
that mounts very near the transom on the Esther Mae for legal road use, but
I have only used it strapped to the end of the trailer to haul materials so
far.
Caloosarat
_____
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
oarmandt
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2007 6:20 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: More on trailers..........
For my Birdwatcher, 6' of boat extends beyond the end of the trailer.
This much has not been a problem. I do use a light bar fastened just
forward of the rudder post. There is no outboard on my boat.
My trailer looked a bit short, so I made a sub-frame of PT lumber that
sicks out 2' beyond the back end of the metal frame. The stern of my
boat is 8' beyond the end of the metal frame.
Doug
--- In bolger@yahoogroups. <mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com> com,
"urbanrocket" <williambennie@...> wrote:
>distribution issues) for how
> No - takers?
>
> I'll try one more time: is there a maximum limit (besides weight
> much of a sailboat can extend off of the rear of a trailer?"urbanrocket" <williambennie@> wrote:
>
> Any input is appreciated.
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@yahoogroups. <mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com> com,
> >a 25' black skimmer? I saw
> > I have a naive question - how large of a trailer would I need for
> > recent pics where the rear of a trailer didn't seem to extend muchbeyond the halfway point
> > of a BS. How much boat hanging over the rear end of a trailer istypical?
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > Thanks,
> > Bill
> >
>
Sorry to join in late, but I'll add on to Clyde's comments; The ROT is
for minimum of 10% of the combined trailer and cargo (boat) weight to
rest on the hitch, not to exceed 300 pounds. The light bar and
structural concerns have already been addressed. The side to side sway
is not limited to FWD vehicles, my old 1/2 ton pick-up could sway with
the best of them!
Lewis
for minimum of 10% of the combined trailer and cargo (boat) weight to
rest on the hitch, not to exceed 300 pounds. The light bar and
structural concerns have already been addressed. The side to side sway
is not limited to FWD vehicles, my old 1/2 ton pick-up could sway with
the best of them!
Lewis
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Clyde Wisner <clydewis@...> wrote:
>
> Weight distribution on the trailer and the tow veh is something to
> consider. Short distance, low speed not important. Too much weight on
> the trailer and not enough on the hitch can cause the trailer to sway
> from side to side and this can be unpleasant, particularly with front
> wheel drive tow veh. Clyde
>
> James Hagan wrote:
>
> >
> > On Apr 14, 2007, at 1:19 PM, urbanrocket wrote:
> >
> > No - takers?
> >
> > I'll try one more time: is there a maximum limit (besides weight
> > distribution issues) for how
> > much of a sailboat can extend off of the rear of a trailer?
> >
> > I'll take a crack. It depends! There are two issues once the boat
> > appears to ride nicely. Can the structure of the boat stand the
> > shocks that trailering entails? I had a Dovekie which was trailered
> > on a flatbed much as you describe and never saw any damage. Other
> > boats may fold in the middle.
> >
> > The other issue is one of state laws which define how far the lights
> > can be from the stern of the boat. Some folks use light bars
> > fastened to the stern.
> >
> > Jim Hagan
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Thanks everyone for the input. It was very helpful.
Bill
Bill
For my Birdwatcher, 6' of boat extends beyond the end of the trailer.
This much has not been a problem. I do use a light bar fastened just
forward of the rudder post. There is no outboard on my boat.
My trailer looked a bit short, so I made a sub-frame of PT lumber that
sicks out 2' beyond the back end of the metal frame. The stern of my
boat is 8' beyond the end of the metal frame.
Doug
This much has not been a problem. I do use a light bar fastened just
forward of the rudder post. There is no outboard on my boat.
My trailer looked a bit short, so I made a sub-frame of PT lumber that
sicks out 2' beyond the back end of the metal frame. The stern of my
boat is 8' beyond the end of the metal frame.
Doug
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "urbanrocket" <williambennie@...> wrote:
>
> No - takers?
>
> I'll try one more time: is there a maximum limit (besides weight
distribution issues) for how
> much of a sailboat can extend off of the rear of a trailer?
>
> Any input is appreciated.
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "urbanrocket" <williambennie@> wrote:
> >
> > I have a naive question - how large of a trailer would I need for
a 25' black skimmer? I saw
> > recent pics where the rear of a trailer didn't seem to extend much
beyond the halfway point
> > of a BS. How much boat hanging over the rear end of a trailer is
typical?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bill
> >
>
Weight distribution on the trailer and the tow veh is something to
consider. Short distance, low speed not important. Too much weight on
the trailer and not enough on the hitch can cause the trailer to sway
from side to side and this can be unpleasant, particularly with front
wheel drive tow veh. Clyde
James Hagan wrote:
consider. Short distance, low speed not important. Too much weight on
the trailer and not enough on the hitch can cause the trailer to sway
from side to side and this can be unpleasant, particularly with front
wheel drive tow veh. Clyde
James Hagan wrote:
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> On Apr 14, 2007, at 1:19 PM, urbanrocket wrote:
>
> No - takers?
>
> I'll try one more time: is there a maximum limit (besides weight
> distribution issues) for how
> much of a sailboat can extend off of the rear of a trailer?
>
> I'll take a crack. It depends! There are two issues once the boat
> appears to ride nicely. Can the structure of the boat stand the
> shocks that trailering entails? I had a Dovekie which was trailered
> on a flatbed much as you describe and never saw any damage. Other
> boats may fold in the middle.
>
> The other issue is one of state laws which define how far the lights
> can be from the stern of the boat. Some folks use light bars
> fastened to the stern.
>
> Jim Hagan
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
Nels
> In "Boats With an Open Mind" Phila light bar mounted on the stern.
> mentions that FACTOR in the write-up on BIRDWATCHER, including using
>Sorry I meant WHALEWATCHER!
Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, James Hagan <hagan@...> wrote:
Can the structure of the boat stand the shocks that trailering
entails?
From what I understand, most of the "Bolger Boxes" from an engineering
standpoint form a "box beam" structure that can stand a lot of
downward pressure without harm. In "Boats With an Open Mind" Phil
mentions that FACTOR in the write-up on BIRDWATCHER, including using a
light bar mounted on the stern.
The MICRO series also has a second box beam in the keel structure. I
would guess that a quarter of the O/A length of the boat could safely
extend beyond the trailer supports on any of these designs. On a BLACK
SKIMMER I would certainly consider a light bar.
Nels
And a related question: I've been worrying about the attachment of the lower pintle and the possible need to support it against the pounding of the rudder while on the road. (It supports the full weight of the rudder, rudder shaft, and tiller.)
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: urbanrocket
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 2:45 PM
Subject: [bolger] More on trailers..........
I have a naive question - how large of a trailer would I need for a 25' black skimmer? I saw
recent pics where the rear of a trailer didn't seem to extend much beyond the halfway point
of a BS. How much boat hanging over the rear end of a trailer is typical?
Thanks,
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On Apr 14, 2007, at 1:19 PM, urbanrocket wrote:
No - takers?
I'll try one more time: is there a maximum limit (besides weight
distribution issues) for how
much of a sailboat can extend off of the rear of a trailer?
I'll take a crack. It depends! There are two issues once the boat
appears to ride nicely. Can the structure of the boat stand the
shocks that trailering entails? I had a Dovekie which was trailered
on a flatbed much as you describe and never saw any damage. Other
boats may fold in the middle.
The other issue is one of state laws which define how far the lights
can be from the stern of the boat. Some folks use light bars
fastened to the stern.
Jim Hagan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "urbanrocket" <williambennie@...> wrote:
axle is just aft of amidships, and I have about four feet of stern
sticking out beyond the aft bunk.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
>My "His and Her" schooner sits on a converted Y-Flyer trailer. The
> I have a naive question - how large of a trailer would I need for a
> 25' black skimmer? I saw recent pics where the rear of a trailer
> didn't seem to extend much beyond the halfway point of a BS. How much
> boat hanging over the rear end of a trailer is typical?
axle is just aft of amidships, and I have about four feet of stern
sticking out beyond the aft bunk.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
No - takers?
I'll try one more time: is there a maximum limit (besides weight distribution issues) for how
much of a sailboat can extend off of the rear of a trailer?
Any input is appreciated.
Bill
I'll try one more time: is there a maximum limit (besides weight distribution issues) for how
much of a sailboat can extend off of the rear of a trailer?
Any input is appreciated.
Bill
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "urbanrocket" <williambennie@...> wrote:
>
> I have a naive question - how large of a trailer would I need for a 25' black skimmer? I saw
> recent pics where the rear of a trailer didn't seem to extend much beyond the halfway point
> of a BS. How much boat hanging over the rear end of a trailer is typical?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
I have a naive question - how large of a trailer would I need for a 25' black skimmer? I saw
recent pics where the rear of a trailer didn't seem to extend much beyond the halfway point
of a BS. How much boat hanging over the rear end of a trailer is typical?
Thanks,
Bill
recent pics where the rear of a trailer didn't seem to extend much beyond the halfway point
of a BS. How much boat hanging over the rear end of a trailer is typical?
Thanks,
Bill
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@...>
An extension bar may prove helpful on ramps with a shallow
turn is attached to a bar that inserts into the receiver on the
hitch. I posted photos somewhere.
I expect Zephyr will be the first one to hit the water this spring
as I still have finishing to do on LESTAT to bring it up to it's
original pristineity. I have found the tongue wheel jack on the
trailer to be less than satisfactory, so am building a two-wheeled
dolly to go under the tongue instead of a single wheel.
And I have friends and relatives coming over from Sweden who want to
go sailing! I plan to launch it at a marina that has a big sloped
ramp, from which houseboats are being launched as we speak, and keep
it at a berth for the summer. There is also a travel-lift.
Hmmm, perhaps my Swedish cousins would like to do some sanding and
varnishing...
Nels
An extension bar may prove helpful on ramps with a shallow
> gradient, although a 50 foot bar does appear somewhat extreme.It isn't a bar but a cable - attached to a hand winch - which in
turn is attached to a bar that inserts into the receiver on the
hitch. I posted photos somewhere.
I expect Zephyr will be the first one to hit the water this spring
as I still have finishing to do on LESTAT to bring it up to it's
original pristineity. I have found the tongue wheel jack on the
trailer to be less than satisfactory, so am building a two-wheeled
dolly to go under the tongue instead of a single wheel.
And I have friends and relatives coming over from Sweden who want to
go sailing! I plan to launch it at a marina that has a big sloped
ramp, from which houseboats are being launched as we speak, and keep
it at a berth for the summer. There is also a travel-lift.
Hmmm, perhaps my Swedish cousins would like to do some sanding and
varnishing...
Nels
Boy! Talk about an exact answer to one's question. Thank you.
Outside of planning on the "Cruising Conversion" (hard dodger) that's the hull I'm building.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
Outside of planning on the "Cruising Conversion" (hard dodger) that's the hull I'm building.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: bh100014
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 12:40 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Trailer Advice Needed
Roger,
The trailer I got for Three Rivers seems to work ok so far, although
I've only launched her once so it remains to be seen. I've put a
couple of pictures in the Photo file, under Ben's Three River. It's a
custom made trailer with a keel rail designed for small keel boats.
That's the primary structure for holding up the boat. There are also
two bunks running about 10 feet under the boat on both sides. The
bunks are 'springy' and fits the profile of the bottom. As far as I
can tell the arrangement distributes the boat load quite well. One
advise I have for those leaving the boat on the trailer rather than on
water - do not use rollers! My current boat (A fiber glass Marsh Hen)
suffered from trailer sag when I had rollers. Bunks work much better.
Cheers
Ben
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Roger,
The trailer I got for Three Rivers seems to work ok so far, although
I've only launched her once so it remains to be seen. I've put a
couple of pictures in the Photo file, under Ben's Three River. It's a
custom made trailer with a keel rail designed for small keel boats.
That's the primary structure for holding up the boat. There are also
two bunks running about 10 feet under the boat on both sides. The
bunks are 'springy' and fits the profile of the bottom. As far as I
can tell the arrangement distributes the boat load quite well. One
advise I have for those leaving the boat on the trailer rather than on
water - do not use rollers! My current boat (A fiber glass Marsh Hen)
suffered from trailer sag when I had rollers. Bunks work much better.
Cheers
Ben
The trailer I got for Three Rivers seems to work ok so far, although
I've only launched her once so it remains to be seen. I've put a
couple of pictures in the Photo file, under Ben's Three River. It's a
custom made trailer with a keel rail designed for small keel boats.
That's the primary structure for holding up the boat. There are also
two bunks running about 10 feet under the boat on both sides. The
bunks are 'springy' and fits the profile of the bottom. As far as I
can tell the arrangement distributes the boat load quite well. One
advise I have for those leaving the boat on the trailer rather than on
water - do not use rollers! My current boat (A fiber glass Marsh Hen)
suffered from trailer sag when I had rollers. Bunks work much better.
Cheers
Ben
I just heard from ShoreLand'R and they say it's rated for 2,700 to 3,000 lbs, not 6,000. (Since the seller's other statements didn't check out, I'm not surprised.) That should be a better match to Chebacco's guesstimated 1,500 lbs. At least for a start.
My Chebacco's bottom is 3/8" marine ply, but there are lots of structural members behind the ply. I do think I'll avoid point loadings except perhaps up high where it's more of a guiding function than lifting.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
My Chebacco's bottom is 3/8" marine ply, but there are lots of structural members behind the ply. I do think I'll avoid point loadings except perhaps up high where it's more of a guiding function than lifting.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Nels
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 9:00 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Trailer Advice Needed
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
> I've been thinking of rollers for the keel, but it would be
floating, wouldn't it? Even if it's half out of water, the weight
isn't that great and it could slide along a longitudinal plank.
>
> I'm beginning to get the picture.
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
Yes - Chebacco is certainly a "different kettle of fish" than a Micro.
It has a lot less rocker and is also multi-chined. It is also a foot
wider I believe? So one would have to insure the chines were above the
fenders on the trailer which may not be a factor with the raised chine.
Since it is not that heavy then "point loading" may not even be a
significant factor if the bottom is reinforced with glass. How thick
is the bottom ply?
If one has the proper springs for the weight of the hull then it
should ride nicely, without jouncing. It is amazing to see how rough
some highways can be, when you are boogying along in a vehicle with
good suspension and watching the trailer bouncing up and down in the rear view mirror:-)
Nels
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-
Roger,
It all has to do with "floating your boat". You need to submerge
your trailer far enough to gain boyancy. Also, draft and depth of
keel has alot to do with how soon you will be floating free. All the
tips so far have been good ones. I have trailer launched a 24ft,
2,000lb, full keel sailboat with a 4ft draft. This required a steep
ramp, high tide and a tow strap attached to the trailer. The trailer
was totally gone under by the time the boat floated free and I had
20ft of tow strap used up, plus the trailer. This is a bit extreme,
but I'm just trying to get the idea across to you. A small, light
boat will float free quickly. I am even curious how my Old Shoe will
launch and I will be using a trailer that is over 18ft long.
Regards,
Dennis
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
several feet below the surface.
the water. I don't think the tires even got wet. On the highway it
was airborne. (Hauling it up from Florida to Lake Cumberland, a tire
went flat. The sidewall was stiff enough to handle the several miles
to a gas station.)
a trailer very very similar to the one Nels speaks about and owns.
easily.Retrieving the boat is
Roger,
It all has to do with "floating your boat". You need to submerge
your trailer far enough to gain boyancy. Also, draft and depth of
keel has alot to do with how soon you will be floating free. All the
tips so far have been good ones. I have trailer launched a 24ft,
2,000lb, full keel sailboat with a 4ft draft. This required a steep
ramp, high tide and a tow strap attached to the trailer. The trailer
was totally gone under by the time the boat floated free and I had
20ft of tow strap used up, plus the trailer. This is a bit extreme,
but I'm just trying to get the idea across to you. A small, light
boat will float free quickly. I am even curious how my Old Shoe will
launch and I will be using a trailer that is over 18ft long.
Regards,
Dennis
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>how to get it on and off that cradle without sinking the cradle
> Maybe I'm having an attack of the stupids, but I still don't see
several feet below the surface.
>walking distance of the water, grab the bow handle and hurl it into
> The only boat I've trailered was the Sunfish. We'd get within
the water. I don't think the tires even got wet. On the highway it
was airborne. (Hauling it up from Florida to Lake Cumberland, a tire
went flat. The sidewall was stiff enough to handle the several miles
to a gas station.)
>cradle
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Peter Lenihan
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 5:43 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Trailer Advice Needed
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@> wrote:
> >
> > A fifty foot "tongue extension?" I don't think the lakes I'm
> > planning to sail are that wide.
> >
> > "Submerge the stern????" Is this to raise the bow over the
>Woodenboat boat show in Newport Rhode Island(1993). This was done on
> > so it can drop in? I still don't get it.
> >
> > Roger
> > derbyrm@
> >http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> Hi Roger,
>
> I hope Nels doesn't take offense to my answering your question :-)
>
> The one and only time I trailered my Micro LESTAT was down to the
a trailer very very similar to the one Nels speaks about and owns.
>hull
> The key to success,at least with a Micro type hull, is that the
> ramp be relatively steep. Because of the boats wide,square sided
> shape aft, she picks up bouyancy quickly when launched arsefirst,as it were, and will float back off the trailer
easily.Retrieving the boat is
> just as easy.weeks before the boat show :-)
>
> An extension bar may prove helpful on ramps with a shallow
> gradient, although a 50 foot bar does appear somewhat extreme.
>
> Oh, I've just remembered that there was another time when she was
> launched,with equal ease, her original launch/baptism in 1993,two
>with
> Hope this helps Roger,
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan,ex builder/owner of LESTAT, now up to me eyeballs
> interior trim work on WINDERMERE, and worried that Pirate Nels isleast
> presently amasing a veritable fleet of Bolger boats instead of at
> launching his LESTAT so that I may get a peek at her before Igrow too
> old and blind,from along the ever warming shores of the mighty
> St.Lawrence..............
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Maybe I'm having an attack of the stupids, but I still don't see how to get it on and off that cradle without sinking the cradle several feet below the surface.
The only boat I've trailered was the Sunfish. We'd get within walking distance of the water, grab the bow handle and hurl it into the water. I don't think the tires even got wet. On the highway it was airborne. (Hauling it up from Florida to Lake Cumberland, a tire went flat. The sidewall was stiff enough to handle the several miles to a gas station.)
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
The only boat I've trailered was the Sunfish. We'd get within walking distance of the water, grab the bow handle and hurl it into the water. I don't think the tires even got wet. On the highway it was airborne. (Hauling it up from Florida to Lake Cumberland, a tire went flat. The sidewall was stiff enough to handle the several miles to a gas station.)
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Lenihan
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 5:43 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Trailer Advice Needed
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> A fifty foot "tongue extension?" I don't think the lakes I'm
> planning to sail are that wide.
>
> "Submerge the stern????" Is this to raise the bow over the cradle
> so it can drop in? I still don't get it.
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
Hi Roger,
I hope Nels doesn't take offense to my answering your question :-)
The one and only time I trailered my Micro LESTAT was down to the Woodenboat boat show in Newport Rhode Island(1993). This was done on a trailer very very similar to the one Nels speaks about and owns.
The key to success,at least with a Micro type hull, is that the
ramp be relatively steep. Because of the boats wide,square sided hull
shape aft, she picks up bouyancy quickly when launched arse first,as it were, and will float back off the trailer easily.Retrieving the boat is
just as easy.
An extension bar may prove helpful on ramps with a shallow
gradient, although a 50 foot bar does appear somewhat extreme.
Oh, I've just remembered that there was another time when she was
launched,with equal ease, her original launch/baptism in 1993,two weeks before the boat show :-)
Hope this helps Roger,
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,ex builder/owner of LESTAT, now up to me eyeballs with
interior trim work on WINDERMERE, and worried that Pirate Nels is
presently amasing a veritable fleet of Bolger boats instead of at least
launching his LESTAT so that I may get a peek at her before I grow too
old and blind,from along the ever warming shores of the mighty
St.Lawrence..............
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
I hope Nels doesn't take offense to my answering your question :-)
The one and only time I trailered my Micro LESTAT was down to the
Woodenboat boat show in Newport Rhode Island(1993). This was done on a
trailer very very similar to the one Nels speaks about and owns.
The key to success,at least with a Micro type hull, is that the
ramp be relatively steep. Because of the boats wide,square sided hull
shape aft, she picks up bouyancy quickly when launched arse first,as it
were, and will float back off the trailer easily.Retrieving the boat is
just as easy.
An extension bar may prove helpful on ramps with a shallow
gradient, although a 50 foot bar does appear somewhat extreme.
Oh, I've just remembered that there was another time when she was
launched,with equal ease, her original launch/baptism in 1993,two weeks
before the boat show :-)
Hope this helps Roger,
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,ex builder/owner of LESTAT, now up to me eyeballs with
interior trim work on WINDERMERE, and worried that Pirate Nels is
presently amasing a veritable fleet of Bolger boats instead of at least
launching his LESTAT so that I may get a peek at her before I grow too
old and blind,from along the ever warming shores of the mighty
St.Lawrence..............
>planning to sail are that wide.
> A fifty foot "tongue extension?" I don't think the lakes I'm
>it can drop in? I still don't get it.
> "Submerge the stern????" Is this to raise the bow over the cradle so
>Hi Roger,
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
I hope Nels doesn't take offense to my answering your question :-)
The one and only time I trailered my Micro LESTAT was down to the
Woodenboat boat show in Newport Rhode Island(1993). This was done on a
trailer very very similar to the one Nels speaks about and owns.
The key to success,at least with a Micro type hull, is that the
ramp be relatively steep. Because of the boats wide,square sided hull
shape aft, she picks up bouyancy quickly when launched arse first,as it
were, and will float back off the trailer easily.Retrieving the boat is
just as easy.
An extension bar may prove helpful on ramps with a shallow
gradient, although a 50 foot bar does appear somewhat extreme.
Oh, I've just remembered that there was another time when she was
launched,with equal ease, her original launch/baptism in 1993,two weeks
before the boat show :-)
Hope this helps Roger,
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,ex builder/owner of LESTAT, now up to me eyeballs with
interior trim work on WINDERMERE, and worried that Pirate Nels is
presently amasing a veritable fleet of Bolger boats instead of at least
launching his LESTAT so that I may get a peek at her before I grow too
old and blind,from along the ever warming shores of the mighty
St.Lawrence..............
A fifty foot "tongue extension?" I don't think the lakes I'm planning to sail are that wide.
"Submerge the stern????" Is this to raise the bow over the cradle so it can drop in? I still don't get it.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
"Submerge the stern????" Is this to raise the bow over the cradle so it can drop in? I still don't get it.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Nels
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 12:17 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Trailer Advice Needed
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> The last three images in that file are unavailable, but the
two "sleigh" shots are there. How deep do you have to submerge that
cradle to get the boat on and off?
>
Have some photos somewhere online. You have to submerge the stern to
immerse the chines. But the stern section is very bouyant compared to
most boats, especially the ones with 250+ lb. motors on the back!
I have a 50' "tongue extension" for the trailer, which I also have
posted photos of someplace.
Nels
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
cradle to get the boat on and off?
immerse the chines. But the stern section is very bouyant compared to
most boats, especially the ones with 250+ lb. motors on the back!
I have a 50' "tongue extension" for the trailer, which I also have
posted photos of someplace.
Nels
>two "sleigh" shots are there. How deep do you have to submerge that
> The last three images in that file are unavailable, but the
cradle to get the boat on and off?
>Have some photos somewhere online. You have to submerge the stern to
immerse the chines. But the stern section is very bouyant compared to
most boats, especially the ones with 250+ lb. motors on the back!
I have a 50' "tongue extension" for the trailer, which I also have
posted photos of someplace.
Nels
The last three images in that file are unavailable, but the two "sleigh" shots are there. How deep do you have to submerge that cradle to get the boat on and off?
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Nels
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 4:36 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Trailer Advice Needed
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> That tinyurl doesn't work?
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
Sorry Roger. It wasn't important. Shows LESTAT being towed on the
cradle through the snow. Try this link and then open "Lenihans LESTAT"
folder.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Micro/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>Another advantage of a cradle:-)Thanks to everyone who replied. I'm onto it.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
cradle through the snow. Try this link and then open "Lenihans LESTAT"
folder.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Micro/
>Sorry Roger. It wasn't important. Shows LESTAT being towed on the
> That tinyurl doesn't work?
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
cradle through the snow. Try this link and then open "Lenihans LESTAT"
folder.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Micro/
That tinyurl doesn't work?
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Nels
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 3:13 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Trailer Advice Needed
Another advantage of a cradle:-)
http://tinyurl.com/2485gh
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
isn't that great and it could slide along a longitudinal plank.
It has a lot less rocker and is also multi-chined. It is also a foot
wider I believe? So one would have to insure the chines were above the
fenders on the trailer which may not be a factor with the raised chine.
Since it is not that heavy then "point loading" may not even be a
significant factor if the bottom is reinforced with glass. How thick
is the bottom ply?
If one has the proper springs for the weight of the hull then it
should ride nicely, without jouncing. It is amazing to see how rough
some highways can be, when you are boogying along in a vehicle with
good suspension and watching the trailer bouncing up and down in the
rear view mirror:-)
Nels
> I've been thinking of rollers for the keel, but it would befloating, wouldn't it? Even if it's half out of water, the weight
isn't that great and it could slide along a longitudinal plank.
>Yes - Chebacco is certainly a "different kettle of fish" than a Micro.
> I'm beginning to get the picture.
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
It has a lot less rocker and is also multi-chined. It is also a foot
wider I believe? So one would have to insure the chines were above the
fenders on the trailer which may not be a factor with the raised chine.
Since it is not that heavy then "point loading" may not even be a
significant factor if the bottom is reinforced with glass. How thick
is the bottom ply?
If one has the proper springs for the weight of the hull then it
should ride nicely, without jouncing. It is amazing to see how rough
some highways can be, when you are boogying along in a vehicle with
good suspension and watching the trailer bouncing up and down in the
rear view mirror:-)
Nels
Of course Chebacco was designed to be trailered. At its deepest, the bottom is nominally about 8" below the LWL. The bottom of the keel slopes in a straight line from the LWL at the stem to a point just ahead of the centerboard. It then runs straight and parallel to the LWL to just ahead of the rudder. Max. draft is 12" (CB up).
Support for the keel is easy. Support for the bulkheads ahead of the point of max. beam is straightforward. Then it gets harder, but I suspect the support is mostly needed for the highway and for long term storage. Thus these aft supports could be folded down until the boat is in the launch area's parking lot.
I've been thinking of rollers for the keel, but it would be floating, wouldn't it? Even if it's half out of water, the weight isn't that great and it could slide along a longitudinal plank.
I'm beginning to get the picture.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
Support for the keel is easy. Support for the bulkheads ahead of the point of max. beam is straightforward. Then it gets harder, but I suspect the support is mostly needed for the highway and for long term storage. Thus these aft supports could be folded down until the boat is in the launch area's parking lot.
I've been thinking of rollers for the keel, but it would be floating, wouldn't it? Even if it's half out of water, the weight isn't that great and it could slide along a longitudinal plank.
I'm beginning to get the picture.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Nels
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 5:43 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Trailer Advice Needed
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Rusk" <rrusk9@...> wrote:
>
> Roger,
>> I believe that it was in Jim Michalak's writings where I read the
> suggestion that for plywood boats you should provide transverse
> supports located under frames and bulkheads instead of the
> longitudinal supports or rollers that are commonly used on > fiberglass boats. This also works out nicely given the rocker of a > flat-bottomed sailboat.
A possible option is to construct a cradle specifically measured to
provide such support - which is what I did when I purchased my Long Micro from Dan Gonneau - and transported it on a flat bed trailer.
I copied the design from Peter Lenihan's cradle which came with Lestat when I purchased it! The bulkhead supports are simply further apart for the Long Micro. The keel is supported by the cross members on the longitudinal skids on which the supports are attached to.
There are a couple of photos posted here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger7/files/Long%20Micro/
Because both boats have a lot of rocker, they must be "floated" on and off the cradle so the trailer must be immersed a fair amount to allow this. Therefor I have installed a dolly wheel on the trailer tongue and use a winch connected to the hitch receiver to lower the trailer down the launching ramp without backing down too far with the vehicle.
The boats are stored on their respective cradles, using rollers and
the winch to put them on and off the trailer.
The advantage is that I can use the same trailer for both boats and in
addition I use the trailer to carry my junk to the dump as well as
transport my MGB:-) The "disadvantage" is my neighbours like to use it too.
I was fortunate in purchasing a small car hauler - with a 12 foot bed -
- at a cheaper price than a standard tandom wheeled boat trailer. And even more fortunate that the Long Micro fit! The trailer tows like dream on 15" wheels, torsion bar suspension, and has electric brakes.
Nels
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Rusk" <rrusk9@...> wrote:
provide such support - which is what I did when I purchased my Long
Micro from Dan Gonneau - and transported it on a flat bed trailer.
I copied the design from Peter Lenihan's cradle which came with Lestat
when I purchased it! The bulkhead supports are simply further apart
for the Long Micro. The keel is supported by the cross members on the
longitudinal skids on which the supports are attached to.
There are a couple of photos posted here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger7/files/Long%20Micro/
Because both boats have a lot of rocker, they must be "floated" on and
off the cradle so the trailer must be immersed a fair amount to allow
this. Therefor I have installed a dolly wheel on the trailer tongue
and use a winch connected to the hitch receiver to lower the trailer
down the launching ramp without backing down too far with the vehicle.
The boats are stored on their respective cradles, using rollers and
the winch to put them on and off the trailer.
The advantage is that I can use the same trailer for both boats and in
addition I use the trailer to carry my junk to the dump as well as
transport my MGB:-) The "disadvantage" is my neighbours like to use it
too.
I was fortunate in purchasing a small car hauler - with a 12 foot bed -
- at a cheaper price than a standard tandom wheeled boat trailer. And
even more fortunate that the Long Micro fit! The trailer tows like
dream on 15" wheels, torsion bar suspension, and has electric brakes.
Nels
>bottomed
> Roger,
>> I believe that it was in Jim Michalak's writings where I read the
> suggestion that for plywood boats you should provide transverse
> supports located under frames and bulkheads instead of the
> longitudinal supports or rollers that are commonly used on fiberglass
> boats. This also works out nicely given the rocker of a flat-
> sailboat.A possible option is to construct a cradle specifically measured to
provide such support - which is what I did when I purchased my Long
Micro from Dan Gonneau - and transported it on a flat bed trailer.
I copied the design from Peter Lenihan's cradle which came with Lestat
when I purchased it! The bulkhead supports are simply further apart
for the Long Micro. The keel is supported by the cross members on the
longitudinal skids on which the supports are attached to.
There are a couple of photos posted here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger7/files/Long%20Micro/
Because both boats have a lot of rocker, they must be "floated" on and
off the cradle so the trailer must be immersed a fair amount to allow
this. Therefor I have installed a dolly wheel on the trailer tongue
and use a winch connected to the hitch receiver to lower the trailer
down the launching ramp without backing down too far with the vehicle.
The boats are stored on their respective cradles, using rollers and
the winch to put them on and off the trailer.
The advantage is that I can use the same trailer for both boats and in
addition I use the trailer to carry my junk to the dump as well as
transport my MGB:-) The "disadvantage" is my neighbours like to use it
too.
I was fortunate in purchasing a small car hauler - with a 12 foot bed -
- at a cheaper price than a standard tandom wheeled boat trailer. And
even more fortunate that the Long Micro fit! The trailer tows like
dream on 15" wheels, torsion bar suspension, and has electric brakes.
Nels
Roger,
Though I respect and accept most of what Kristine has to say, I'd beg
to differ on this one. Those little rollers impose point loads, and
some of them will fall mid-panel. These trailers are generally NOT
recommended for riveted aluminum boats, wooden boats and Boston
Whalers. I've seen several lapstrake-plywood boats damaged by such
rollers. If you have any of these boat types, you should generally
get as much support as possible under the keel. This is particularly
true of boats with ballasted keels. Side supports on traditional
wooden boats need to bridge several frames and provide even support
across them.
I believe that it was in Jim Michalak's writings where I read the
suggestion that for plywood boats you should provide transverse
supports located under frames and bulkheads instead of the
longitudinal supports or rollers that are commonly used on fiberglass
boats. This also works out nicely given the rocker of a flat-bottomed
sailboat. You would want to position these supports carefully, it
would be a BAD THING to support the boat a few inches from a frame
instead of directly under the frame. There are a couple of photos of
sharpies supported by transverse bunks, on a converted powerboat
trailer at the following URLs:
http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/as19/
http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/trailer/
As for the pivoted transverse member at the back of your trailer, is a
major benefit when loading a boat onto such a trailer at a shallow
ramp. The assembly tips aft when the bow of the boat reaches it,
providing a ramp-like action for lifting the bow up onto the trailer.
As the boat progresses forward, the angle adjusts to match the
portion of the hull then being supported.
Bob
Though I respect and accept most of what Kristine has to say, I'd beg
to differ on this one. Those little rollers impose point loads, and
some of them will fall mid-panel. These trailers are generally NOT
recommended for riveted aluminum boats, wooden boats and Boston
Whalers. I've seen several lapstrake-plywood boats damaged by such
rollers. If you have any of these boat types, you should generally
get as much support as possible under the keel. This is particularly
true of boats with ballasted keels. Side supports on traditional
wooden boats need to bridge several frames and provide even support
across them.
I believe that it was in Jim Michalak's writings where I read the
suggestion that for plywood boats you should provide transverse
supports located under frames and bulkheads instead of the
longitudinal supports or rollers that are commonly used on fiberglass
boats. This also works out nicely given the rocker of a flat-bottomed
sailboat. You would want to position these supports carefully, it
would be a BAD THING to support the boat a few inches from a frame
instead of directly under the frame. There are a couple of photos of
sharpies supported by transverse bunks, on a converted powerboat
trailer at the following URLs:
http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/as19/
http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/trailer/
As for the pivoted transverse member at the back of your trailer, is a
major benefit when loading a boat onto such a trailer at a shallow
ramp. The assembly tips aft when the bow of the boat reaches it,
providing a ramp-like action for lifting the bow up onto the trailer.
As the boat progresses forward, the angle adjusts to match the
portion of the hull then being supported.
Bob
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
>
> Yes you want all those little rollers.....They are
> there to take the loading and support the hull as if
> it was in the water....
>
> You should be able to move the roller assamble around
> on the frame so they are where most of the weight is.
>
> As for the tilting aft end it makes the boat a lot
> easyer to load in the trailer.
>
> First get the boat on the trailer then see what needs
> to be moved around.
>
> You start cutting now you could be shooting yourself
> in the foot with a 12 Ga. later.
>
> BLessings Krissie
> --- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> > Actually, I haven't thought at all at this point. I
> > looked at all the possible adjustments and said
> > "I'll bet there are people out there that know all
> > about this."
> >
> > A simple trailer with bunks was what I was thinking
> > before this thing came along. Worst case, I get out
> > the cutting torch and lose all the complexity, but
> > maybe I'd be throwing away something valuable????
> > They sell those assemblies for a couple of hundred
> > bucks per set of four wheels, so someone thinks
> > they're valuable.
> >
> > Roger
> > derbyrm@...
> >http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jon & Wanda(Tink)
> > To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 4:05 PM
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: Trailer Advice Needed
> >
> >
> > Have you thought of putting bunks on it where
> > support is needed that
> > extended to the transom. Maybe lighter springs to
> > soffen the rideso
> > the boat won't get pounded.
> >
> > Jon
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm"
> > <derbyrm@> wrote:
> > >
> > > One stumbling block I've been anticipating is
> > the need for a
> > trailer. This summer should see the hull faired,
> > painted, and turned
> > upright. Considering how much I've spent on paint
> > (still in the
> > cans) I'd like to handle the boat gently.
> > >
> > > Well, a trailer came to me, parked on a corner
> > near my home with
> > what seemed a reasonable price. Chebacco is
> > nominally 1500 lbs.
> > Trailer is rated for 6,000 lbs. Chebacco is
> > nominally 20'. Trailer
> > previously held a 19' power boat and has lots of
> > tongue forward of
> > the winch post. It's a 1983 Shoreline.
> > >
> > > Pictures at
> >http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Trailer.html
> > >
> > > Boat underbody shape at
> >http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.htmland
> > >http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Chebacco.html
> > (scroll to the
> > bottom)
> > >
> > > Straight keel for most of its length,
> > anticipated outboard weight
> > about 60 lbs.
> > >
> > > The questions:
> > >
> > > I think I want most of the weight on the keel
> > support rollers
> > with minimal support to the hull outboard with a
> > few of the
> > spiderlike rollers on each side. Other opinions???
> > >
> > > The trailer has a pivoting sub-frame at the rear
> > with the
> > darnedest collection of rollers attached. What
> > does the ability to
> > pivot the sub-frame down buy me? (Why shouldn't I
> > just weld/bolt it
> > horizontal?)
> > >
> > > How would one adjust these?
> > >
> > > I think I'm going to have to add another keel
> > roller or two.
> > What are the "end caps" good for? I see both
> > styles offered by the
> > trailer parts suppliers.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Roger
> > > derbyrm@
> > >http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Never miss an email again!
> Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives.
>http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
>
If possible you want as much of the weight setting on the keel when loaded,
out of the water and on level ground. A pair of bunks, one for each side
should be next after the keel rollers, with the roller assemblies far enough
up the sides to guide the boat onto the trailer when backed into the ramp
and still giving some support to the hull when out of the water on the flat.
I have observed a 35' Nightwind on a lift that had poorly placed bunks and
little else, it distorted the sides of the boat. I have 12' Widgeon that
sits on a trailer and it also displays some of the aforementioned
distortion. My Widgeon is over 30 years old, with it being in my hands for
almost 12 years, I do not notice any ill effects when under sail but the
distortion is visible. While both examples are of fiberglass hulls the
stress on the boat due to trailer or trailer like siting should be the same.
We all dream that our boats will spend more time in the water than on the
trailer, but the reality is the other way around. Using the keel to support
the load reduces the stress to the hull, but the hull needs resting points
too. Trailers are wonderful things as they allow us to use craft that would
otherwise be impractical to keep in the water full time. They are also
under appreciated for all of the things that a properly designed one does.
If loading and unloading are a pain, then the experience is reduced along
with the desire to use frequently. If they trail poorly they are a clear
and present danger to the vessel and others sharing the road. If they
incorrectly support the vessel when sitting in storage they damage the hull
integrity.
Caloosarat.
_____
From: bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
derbyrm
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 3:59 PM
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Trailer Advice Needed
One stumbling block I've been anticipating is the need for a trailer. This
summer should see the hull faired, painted, and turned upright. Considering
how much I've spent on paint (still in the cans) I'd like to handle the boat
gently.
Well, a trailer came to me, parked on a corner near my home with what seemed
a reasonable price. Chebacco is nominally 1500 lbs. Trailer is rated for
6,000 lbs. Chebacco is nominally 20'. Trailer previously held a 19' power
boat and has lots of tongue forward of the winch post. It's a 1983
Shoreline.
Pictures at http://home. <http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Trailer.html>
insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Trailer.html
Boat underbody shape at http://home.
<http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.html>
insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.html and
http://home. <http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Chebacco.html>
insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Chebacco.html (scroll to the bottom)
Straight keel for most of its length, anticipated outboard weight about 60
lbs.
The questions:
I think I want most of the weight on the keel support rollers with minimal
support to the hull outboard with a few of the spiderlike rollers on each
side. Other opinions???
The trailer has a pivoting sub-frame at the rear with the darnedest
collection of rollers attached. What does the ability to pivot the sub-frame
down buy me? (Why shouldn't I just weld/bolt it horizontal?)
How would one adjust these?
I think I'm going to have to add another keel roller or two. What are the
"end caps" good for? I see both styles offered by the trailer parts
suppliers.
Thanks,
Roger
derbyrm@NOSPAMinsig <mailto:derbyrm%40NOSPAMinsightbbNOSPAM.com>
htbbNOSPAM.com
http://home. <http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm> insightbb.com/~derbyrm
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
out of the water and on level ground. A pair of bunks, one for each side
should be next after the keel rollers, with the roller assemblies far enough
up the sides to guide the boat onto the trailer when backed into the ramp
and still giving some support to the hull when out of the water on the flat.
I have observed a 35' Nightwind on a lift that had poorly placed bunks and
little else, it distorted the sides of the boat. I have 12' Widgeon that
sits on a trailer and it also displays some of the aforementioned
distortion. My Widgeon is over 30 years old, with it being in my hands for
almost 12 years, I do not notice any ill effects when under sail but the
distortion is visible. While both examples are of fiberglass hulls the
stress on the boat due to trailer or trailer like siting should be the same.
We all dream that our boats will spend more time in the water than on the
trailer, but the reality is the other way around. Using the keel to support
the load reduces the stress to the hull, but the hull needs resting points
too. Trailers are wonderful things as they allow us to use craft that would
otherwise be impractical to keep in the water full time. They are also
under appreciated for all of the things that a properly designed one does.
If loading and unloading are a pain, then the experience is reduced along
with the desire to use frequently. If they trail poorly they are a clear
and present danger to the vessel and others sharing the road. If they
incorrectly support the vessel when sitting in storage they damage the hull
integrity.
Caloosarat.
_____
From: bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
derbyrm
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 3:59 PM
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Trailer Advice Needed
One stumbling block I've been anticipating is the need for a trailer. This
summer should see the hull faired, painted, and turned upright. Considering
how much I've spent on paint (still in the cans) I'd like to handle the boat
gently.
Well, a trailer came to me, parked on a corner near my home with what seemed
a reasonable price. Chebacco is nominally 1500 lbs. Trailer is rated for
6,000 lbs. Chebacco is nominally 20'. Trailer previously held a 19' power
boat and has lots of tongue forward of the winch post. It's a 1983
Shoreline.
Pictures at http://home. <http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Trailer.html>
insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Trailer.html
Boat underbody shape at http://home.
<http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.html>
insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.html and
http://home. <http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Chebacco.html>
insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Chebacco.html (scroll to the bottom)
Straight keel for most of its length, anticipated outboard weight about 60
lbs.
The questions:
I think I want most of the weight on the keel support rollers with minimal
support to the hull outboard with a few of the spiderlike rollers on each
side. Other opinions???
The trailer has a pivoting sub-frame at the rear with the darnedest
collection of rollers attached. What does the ability to pivot the sub-frame
down buy me? (Why shouldn't I just weld/bolt it horizontal?)
How would one adjust these?
I think I'm going to have to add another keel roller or two. What are the
"end caps" good for? I see both styles offered by the trailer parts
suppliers.
Thanks,
Roger
derbyrm@NOSPAMinsig <mailto:derbyrm%40NOSPAMinsightbbNOSPAM.com>
htbbNOSPAM.com
http://home. <http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm> insightbb.com/~derbyrm
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Well, if we were talking about a Mercedes heading for Daytona, I'd agree. For a boat trailer, I'm not so sure that the level of engineering reaches that high. (If it did, they might have shock absorbers to dampen the vibrations.)
Changing the spring rate is exactly what we're after, more sag per bump. It's a time honored technique.
Sometimes we get too esoteric. When I was in high school, I had the privilege of being advised by a real old-timer while rebuilding a 1937 Ford truck engine for my wheels. When the head gasket wouldn't seal, he handed me a 2x4 and a sheet of sandpaper and I fixed it. He'd once built race cars from Model Ts fresh off the assembly line.
They used to sell little pads to put between the leaves, rollers encased in canvas, to change the friction. Then again, maybe that friction is what substitutes for a shock absorber and we need rust to keep the plates on the table.
I've no idea how many miles are on this 1983 machine. If it's too many, then new springs are definitely in order. Machine parts do get used to one another. I dunno.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
Changing the spring rate is exactly what we're after, more sag per bump. It's a time honored technique.
Sometimes we get too esoteric. When I was in high school, I had the privilege of being advised by a real old-timer while rebuilding a 1937 Ford truck engine for my wheels. When the head gasket wouldn't seal, he handed me a 2x4 and a sheet of sandpaper and I fixed it. He'd once built race cars from Model Ts fresh off the assembly line.
They used to sell little pads to put between the leaves, rollers encased in canvas, to change the friction. Then again, maybe that friction is what substitutes for a shock absorber and we need rust to keep the plates on the table.
I've no idea how many miles are on this 1983 machine. If it's too many, then new springs are definitely in order. Machine parts do get used to one another. I dunno.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Kristine Bennett
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Trailer Advice Needed
Or better yet get a new set of springs that are closer
to the load you are going to be carrying.
Just pulling out a leaf is not a good idea seeing how
they are designed to carry a load and they are mated
for that weight and pulling a leaf out will change the
whole spring rate and may lead to them braking when in
use.
Krissie
--- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
> Good point.
>
> I guess I could pull a leaf or two out of the
> springs to soften the ride.
>
> Roger
__________________________________________________________
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Or better yet get a new set of springs that are closer
to the load you are going to be carrying.
Just pulling out a leaf is not a good idea seeing how
they are designed to carry a load and they are mated
for that weight and pulling a leaf out will change the
whole spring rate and may lead to them braking when in
use.
Krissie
--- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
to the load you are going to be carrying.
Just pulling out a leaf is not a good idea seeing how
they are designed to carry a load and they are mated
for that weight and pulling a leaf out will change the
whole spring rate and may lead to them braking when in
use.
Krissie
--- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
> Good point.____________________________________________________________________________________
>
> I guess I could pull a leaf or two out of the
> springs to soften the ride.
>
> Roger
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
Yes you want all those little rollers.....They are
there to take the loading and support the hull as if
it was in the water....
You should be able to move the roller assamble around
on the frame so they are where most of the weight is.
As for the tilting aft end it makes the boat a lot
easyer to load in the trailer.
First get the boat on the trailer then see what needs
to be moved around.
You start cutting now you could be shooting yourself
in the foot with a 12 Ga. later.
BLessings Krissie
--- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
Never miss an email again!
Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
there to take the loading and support the hull as if
it was in the water....
You should be able to move the roller assamble around
on the frame so they are where most of the weight is.
As for the tilting aft end it makes the boat a lot
easyer to load in the trailer.
First get the boat on the trailer then see what needs
to be moved around.
You start cutting now you could be shooting yourself
in the foot with a 12 Ga. later.
BLessings Krissie
--- derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
> Actually, I haven't thought at all at this point. I____________________________________________________________________________________
> looked at all the possible adjustments and said
> "I'll bet there are people out there that know all
> about this."
>
> A simple trailer with bunks was what I was thinking
> before this thing came along. Worst case, I get out
> the cutting torch and lose all the complexity, but
> maybe I'd be throwing away something valuable????
> They sell those assemblies for a couple of hundred
> bucks per set of four wheels, so someone thinks
> they're valuable.
>
> Roger
>derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jon & Wanda(Tink)
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 4:05 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Trailer Advice Needed
>
>
> Have you thought of putting bunks on it where
> support is needed that
> extended to the transom. Maybe lighter springs to
> soffen the rideso
> the boat won't get pounded.
>
> Jon
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm"
> <derbyrm@...> wrote:
> >
> > One stumbling block I've been anticipating is
> the need for a
> trailer. This summer should see the hull faired,
> painted, and turned
> upright. Considering how much I've spent on paint
> (still in the
> cans) I'd like to handle the boat gently.
> >
> > Well, a trailer came to me, parked on a corner
> near my home with
> what seemed a reasonable price. Chebacco is
> nominally 1500 lbs.
> Trailer is rated for 6,000 lbs. Chebacco is
> nominally 20'. Trailer
> previously held a 19' power boat and has lots of
> tongue forward of
> the winch post. It's a 1983 Shoreline.
> >
> > Pictures at
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Trailer.html
> >
> > Boat underbody shape at
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.htmland
> >http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Chebacco.html
> (scroll to the
> bottom)
> >
> > Straight keel for most of its length,
> anticipated outboard weight
> about 60 lbs.
> >
> > The questions:
> >
> > I think I want most of the weight on the keel
> support rollers
> with minimal support to the hull outboard with a
> few of the
> spiderlike rollers on each side. Other opinions???
> >
> > The trailer has a pivoting sub-frame at the rear
> with the
> darnedest collection of rollers attached. What
> does the ability to
> pivot the sub-frame down buy me? (Why shouldn't I
> just weld/bolt it
> horizontal?)
> >
> > How would one adjust these?
> >
> > I think I'm going to have to add another keel
> roller or two.
> What are the "end caps" good for? I see both
> styles offered by the
> trailer parts suppliers.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Roger
> > derbyrm@...
> >http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
Never miss an email again!
Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
Good point.
I guess I could pull a leaf or two out of the springs to soften the ride.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
I guess I could pull a leaf or two out of the springs to soften the ride.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: pvanderwaart
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 4:07 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Trailer Advice Needed
> Chebacco is nominally 1500 lbs. Trailer is rated for 6,000 lbs.
It's practially a violation of the boater's code to use a trailer that
has 4 times the capacity needed. The one caution that I have is that
the springs will be very stiff due to the high rated weight capacity,
and will not cushion the light load too much. I think it will be ok,
but be use to have as much bearing surface as you can to spread out
the impacts.
Peter
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Actually, I haven't thought at all at this point. I looked at all the possible adjustments and said "I'll bet there are people out there that know all about this."
A simple trailer with bunks was what I was thinking before this thing came along. Worst case, I get out the cutting torch and lose all the complexity, but maybe I'd be throwing away something valuable???? They sell those assemblies for a couple of hundred bucks per set of four wheels, so someone thinks they're valuable.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
A simple trailer with bunks was what I was thinking before this thing came along. Worst case, I get out the cutting torch and lose all the complexity, but maybe I'd be throwing away something valuable???? They sell those assemblies for a couple of hundred bucks per set of four wheels, so someone thinks they're valuable.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Jon & Wanda(Tink)
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2007 4:05 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Trailer Advice Needed
Have you thought of putting bunks on it where support is needed that
extended to the transom. Maybe lighter springs to soffen the rideso
the boat won't get pounded.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> One stumbling block I've been anticipating is the need for a
trailer. This summer should see the hull faired, painted, and turned
upright. Considering how much I've spent on paint (still in the
cans) I'd like to handle the boat gently.
>
> Well, a trailer came to me, parked on a corner near my home with
what seemed a reasonable price. Chebacco is nominally 1500 lbs.
Trailer is rated for 6,000 lbs. Chebacco is nominally 20'. Trailer
previously held a 19' power boat and has lots of tongue forward of
the winch post. It's a 1983 Shoreline.
>
> Pictures athttp://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Trailer.html
>
> Boat underbody shape at
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.htmland
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Chebacco.html(scroll to the
bottom)
>
> Straight keel for most of its length, anticipated outboard weight
about 60 lbs.
>
> The questions:
>
> I think I want most of the weight on the keel support rollers
with minimal support to the hull outboard with a few of the
spiderlike rollers on each side. Other opinions???
>
> The trailer has a pivoting sub-frame at the rear with the
darnedest collection of rollers attached. What does the ability to
pivot the sub-frame down buy me? (Why shouldn't I just weld/bolt it
horizontal?)
>
> How would one adjust these?
>
> I think I'm going to have to add another keel roller or two.
What are the "end caps" good for? I see both styles offered by the
trailer parts suppliers.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Chebacco is nominally 1500 lbs. Trailer is rated for 6,000 lbs.It's practially a violation of the boater's code to use a trailer that
has 4 times the capacity needed. The one caution that I have is that
the springs will be very stiff due to the high rated weight capacity,
and will not cushion the light load too much. I think it will be ok,
but be use to have as much bearing surface as you can to spread out
the impacts.
Peter
Have you thought of putting bunks on it where support is needed that
extended to the transom. Maybe lighter springs to soffen the rideso
the boat won't get pounded.
Jon
extended to the transom. Maybe lighter springs to soffen the rideso
the boat won't get pounded.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> One stumbling block I've been anticipating is the need for a
trailer. This summer should see the hull faired, painted, and turned
upright. Considering how much I've spent on paint (still in the
cans) I'd like to handle the boat gently.
>
> Well, a trailer came to me, parked on a corner near my home with
what seemed a reasonable price. Chebacco is nominally 1500 lbs.
Trailer is rated for 6,000 lbs. Chebacco is nominally 20'. Trailer
previously held a 19' power boat and has lots of tongue forward of
the winch post. It's a 1983 Shoreline.
>
> Pictures athttp://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Trailer.html
>
> Boat underbody shape at
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.htmland
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Chebacco.html(scroll to the
bottom)
>
> Straight keel for most of its length, anticipated outboard weight
about 60 lbs.
>
> The questions:
>
> I think I want most of the weight on the keel support rollers
with minimal support to the hull outboard with a few of the
spiderlike rollers on each side. Other opinions???
>
> The trailer has a pivoting sub-frame at the rear with the
darnedest collection of rollers attached. What does the ability to
pivot the sub-frame down buy me? (Why shouldn't I just weld/bolt it
horizontal?)
>
> How would one adjust these?
>
> I think I'm going to have to add another keel roller or two.
What are the "end caps" good for? I see both styles offered by the
trailer parts suppliers.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
One stumbling block I've been anticipating is the need for a trailer. This summer should see the hull faired, painted, and turned upright. Considering how much I've spent on paint (still in the cans) I'd like to handle the boat gently.
Well, a trailer came to me, parked on a corner near my home with what seemed a reasonable price. Chebacco is nominally 1500 lbs. Trailer is rated for 6,000 lbs. Chebacco is nominally 20'. Trailer previously held a 19' power boat and has lots of tongue forward of the winch post. It's a 1983 Shoreline.
Pictures athttp://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Trailer.html
Boat underbody shape athttp://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.htmland
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Chebacco.html(scroll to the bottom)
Straight keel for most of its length, anticipated outboard weight about 60 lbs.
The questions:
I think I want most of the weight on the keel support rollers with minimal support to the hull outboard with a few of the spiderlike rollers on each side. Other opinions???
The trailer has a pivoting sub-frame at the rear with the darnedest collection of rollers attached. What does the ability to pivot the sub-frame down buy me? (Why shouldn't I just weld/bolt it horizontal?)
How would one adjust these?
I think I'm going to have to add another keel roller or two. What are the "end caps" good for? I see both styles offered by the trailer parts suppliers.
Thanks,
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Well, a trailer came to me, parked on a corner near my home with what seemed a reasonable price. Chebacco is nominally 1500 lbs. Trailer is rated for 6,000 lbs. Chebacco is nominally 20'. Trailer previously held a 19' power boat and has lots of tongue forward of the winch post. It's a 1983 Shoreline.
Pictures athttp://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Trailer.html
Boat underbody shape athttp://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Dayawl.htmland
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/Chebacco.html(scroll to the bottom)
Straight keel for most of its length, anticipated outboard weight about 60 lbs.
The questions:
I think I want most of the weight on the keel support rollers with minimal support to the hull outboard with a few of the spiderlike rollers on each side. Other opinions???
The trailer has a pivoting sub-frame at the rear with the darnedest collection of rollers attached. What does the ability to pivot the sub-frame down buy me? (Why shouldn't I just weld/bolt it horizontal?)
How would one adjust these?
I think I'm going to have to add another keel roller or two. What are the "end caps" good for? I see both styles offered by the trailer parts suppliers.
Thanks,
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]