Re: [bolger] Fiberglass or just Epoxy?
We walked the epoxy off the floor of my Lily in a year and we weren't
able to use it that much. I went back and sanded and put glass and epoxy
on the bottom or floor. It has been collecting bird droppings for 5 or 6
years now, so well see how strong epoxy is. Clyde
Kristine Bennett wrote:
able to use it that much. I went back and sanded and put glass and epoxy
on the bottom or floor. It has been collecting bird droppings for 5 or 6
years now, so well see how strong epoxy is. Clyde
Kristine Bennett wrote:
> Well with anything you are going to get strong feeling[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> on both sides.
>
> I you are going to take your time and make a nice boat
> sheath the whole outside of the hull and wrap all
> plywood edges with glass and epoxy. Also any place
> that is going to see a lot of scuffing add more glass
> layers and stager your edges so they tend to blend in
> when faired. On your keel and chines put a 4 or 6 inch
> tape on say the first 6 or 8 feet or better yet the
> whole thing before you sheath the hull. Then overlap
> the sides and bottom.
>
>
>
>
Or find a happy mid-way point between the two. :)
Hey we all know people that take forever to build
something. But when they are done it's a knock your
sox off.
I keep forgetting the scale of the boats most of you
are building. The last boat I was working on as a job
was a 65 foot pilot boat out of aluminum, the hull
plate was 3/16 and the bottom was 1/4.
Both engines and jet drives weighted more then the
whole alumunum hull and house! I don't remember the HP
of the engines but they were BIG and the jets... well
let's just say if you were a small guy you could crawl
out the jet nozzle!
I have not even played with any of mine in a number of
years. SO I'm kind of out of the loop.
Blessings Krissie
--- Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
Hey we all know people that take forever to build
something. But when they are done it's a knock your
sox off.
I keep forgetting the scale of the boats most of you
are building. The last boat I was working on as a job
was a 65 foot pilot boat out of aluminum, the hull
plate was 3/16 and the bottom was 1/4.
Both engines and jet drives weighted more then the
whole alumunum hull and house! I don't remember the HP
of the engines but they were BIG and the jets... well
let's just say if you were a small guy you could crawl
out the jet nozzle!
I have not even played with any of mine in a number of
years. SO I'm kind of out of the loop.
Blessings Krissie
--- Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
> The trouble with epoxy and glass is it is not just a____________________________________________________________________________________
> little bit of time
> and money. My latest Bolger boat an Elegant Punt as
> a disposable dinghy
> used ACX, and leftover paints for a total of $60 and
> 20 hrs. I would
> have doubled both if I had decided to use epoxy,
> maybe even more than
> doubled on the time. I expect 2 years out of it and
> will use another
> weekend in the winter to make a new one or another
> design for the next
> dinghy. Instant boat building is fast, especially
> with PL Premium and a
> staple gun. Which is more important to you the
> building or the using,
> that will determine the quality of materials and
> time you put in.
>
> HJ
>
> Kristine Bennett wrote:
> > Well with anything you are going to get strong
> feeling
> > on both sides.
> >
> > I you are going to take your time and make a nice
> boat
> > sheath the whole outside of the hull and wrap all
> > plywood edges with glass and epoxy. Also any place
> > that is going to see a lot of scuffing add more
> glass
> > layers and stager your edges so they tend to blend
> in
> > when faired. On your keel and chines put a 4 or 6
> inch
> > tape on say the first 6 or 8 feet or better yet
> the
> > whole thing before you sheath the hull. Then
> overlap
> > the sides and bottom.
> >
> > Over kill yes. But if you save yourself a few
> fixes in
> > a year's time and get to use the boat more by not
> > having to fix it over the weekend you were going
> to
> > use it. It's time well spent the first time
> around.
> >
> > It's kind of like how to get a great looking paint
> job
> > that lasts....Prepwork, prepwork, prepwork first!
> >
> > On the inside I would use penetrating epoxy first
> then
> > at least 2 coats of epoxy. If it's going to be
> > someplace you are going to be scuffing a lot add a
> > layer of glass to the epoxy then do your topcoat.
> >
> > The little extra time and money now will pay off
> in
> > the long term.
> >
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
The trouble with epoxy and glass is it is not just a little bit of time
and money. My latest Bolger boat an Elegant Punt as a disposable dinghy
used ACX, and leftover paints for a total of $60 and 20 hrs. I would
have doubled both if I had decided to use epoxy, maybe even more than
doubled on the time. I expect 2 years out of it and will use another
weekend in the winter to make a new one or another design for the next
dinghy. Instant boat building is fast, especially with PL Premium and a
staple gun. Which is more important to you the building or the using,
that will determine the quality of materials and time you put in.
HJ
Kristine Bennett wrote:
and money. My latest Bolger boat an Elegant Punt as a disposable dinghy
used ACX, and leftover paints for a total of $60 and 20 hrs. I would
have doubled both if I had decided to use epoxy, maybe even more than
doubled on the time. I expect 2 years out of it and will use another
weekend in the winter to make a new one or another design for the next
dinghy. Instant boat building is fast, especially with PL Premium and a
staple gun. Which is more important to you the building or the using,
that will determine the quality of materials and time you put in.
HJ
Kristine Bennett wrote:
> Well with anything you are going to get strong feeling
> on both sides.
>
> I you are going to take your time and make a nice boat
> sheath the whole outside of the hull and wrap all
> plywood edges with glass and epoxy. Also any place
> that is going to see a lot of scuffing add more glass
> layers and stager your edges so they tend to blend in
> when faired. On your keel and chines put a 4 or 6 inch
> tape on say the first 6 or 8 feet or better yet the
> whole thing before you sheath the hull. Then overlap
> the sides and bottom.
>
> Over kill yes. But if you save yourself a few fixes in
> a year's time and get to use the boat more by not
> having to fix it over the weekend you were going to
> use it. It's time well spent the first time around.
>
> It's kind of like how to get a great looking paint job
> that lasts....Prepwork, prepwork, prepwork first!
>
> On the inside I would use penetrating epoxy first then
> at least 2 coats of epoxy. If it's going to be
> someplace you are going to be scuffing a lot add a
> layer of glass to the epoxy then do your topcoat.
>
> The little extra time and money now will pay off in
> the long term.
>
>
> --- Dave <dwestdal@...> wrote:
>
>
>> I'm building the light schooner. I have come across
>> individuals who
>> have either fiberglassed just the bottom,
>> fiberglassed both bottom and
>> sides, or just put on 5 layers of epoxy.
>>
>> Does anyone have a notion of which method proves
>> best over time?
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Don't pick lemons.
> See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
>http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Well with anything you are going to get strong feeling
on both sides.
I you are going to take your time and make a nice boat
sheath the whole outside of the hull and wrap all
plywood edges with glass and epoxy. Also any place
that is going to see a lot of scuffing add more glass
layers and stager your edges so they tend to blend in
when faired. On your keel and chines put a 4 or 6 inch
tape on say the first 6 or 8 feet or better yet the
whole thing before you sheath the hull. Then overlap
the sides and bottom.
Over kill yes. But if you save yourself a few fixes in
a year's time and get to use the boat more by not
having to fix it over the weekend you were going to
use it. It's time well spent the first time around.
It's kind of like how to get a great looking paint job
that lasts....Prepwork, prepwork, prepwork first!
On the inside I would use penetrating epoxy first then
at least 2 coats of epoxy. If it's going to be
someplace you are going to be scuffing a lot add a
layer of glass to the epoxy then do your topcoat.
The little extra time and money now will pay off in
the long term.
--- Dave <dwestdal@...> wrote:
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
on both sides.
I you are going to take your time and make a nice boat
sheath the whole outside of the hull and wrap all
plywood edges with glass and epoxy. Also any place
that is going to see a lot of scuffing add more glass
layers and stager your edges so they tend to blend in
when faired. On your keel and chines put a 4 or 6 inch
tape on say the first 6 or 8 feet or better yet the
whole thing before you sheath the hull. Then overlap
the sides and bottom.
Over kill yes. But if you save yourself a few fixes in
a year's time and get to use the boat more by not
having to fix it over the weekend you were going to
use it. It's time well spent the first time around.
It's kind of like how to get a great looking paint job
that lasts....Prepwork, prepwork, prepwork first!
On the inside I would use penetrating epoxy first then
at least 2 coats of epoxy. If it's going to be
someplace you are going to be scuffing a lot add a
layer of glass to the epoxy then do your topcoat.
The little extra time and money now will pay off in
the long term.
--- Dave <dwestdal@...> wrote:
> I'm building the light schooner. I have come across____________________________________________________________________________________
> individuals who
> have either fiberglassed just the bottom,
> fiberglassed both bottom and
> sides, or just put on 5 layers of epoxy.
>
> Does anyone have a notion of which method proves
> best over time?
>
>
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
If you are epoxy coating an exterior, you need to fiberglass also, I
have mixed feelings on interior work.
HJ
Dave wrote:
have mixed feelings on interior work.
HJ
Dave wrote:
> I'm building the light schooner. I have come across individuals who
> have either fiberglassed just the bottom, fiberglassed both bottom and
> sides, or just put on 5 layers of epoxy.
>
> Does anyone have a notion of which method proves best over time?
>
>
>
> B
>
I'm building the light schooner. I have come across individuals who
have either fiberglassed just the bottom, fiberglassed both bottom and
sides, or just put on 5 layers of epoxy.
Does anyone have a notion of which method proves best over time?
have either fiberglassed just the bottom, fiberglassed both bottom and
sides, or just put on 5 layers of epoxy.
Does anyone have a notion of which method proves best over time?