Another Industrial Coating Option
I have mentioned this product some time ago, but have still not
tried it out yet. This was posted on another group in which a photo
of the boat was included which looked quite adequate as a "workboat
finish".
The point of my interest is that it is a water based formulation and
from a low work effort perspective seems a possible alternative to
using figerglas cloth for abrasiion resistance - althugh fiberglas
cloth can be used as well. Here is the posting:
"If it is good enough to build, it is good enough to keep from
leaking and/or rotting away. Besides I hate re-doing painting, so
it needs to be easy as possible. Recoating with the best stuff
later is often not possible, due to stronger solvents or other
product conflict or contamination. I do a couple coats of primer
with fillers in the can, 1 or 2 topcoats and done. That way I can
add cosmetic coats, but really don't have to for years.
I use UMA (Urethane Modified Acrylic Bonder from X-I-M) primer
ONLY, water based and nothing else will be as tough and allow as
many other kinds of finishes over it. Dries in 3 hours (warm
weather time). I have it mixed with 16 parts black per gallon or 4
parts black per quart to make a good neutral grey color, but it can
be tinted to match topcoats otherwise. Topcoats with latex, oil
alkyds, lacquers, epoxies and urethanes, so it works for all - even
on metal!! Yes you can roller coat this on, XXfine rollers best,
water wash up, and also saves bucks because it does not form a film
in the can, you can use it ALL. This is Industrial paint, they are
the toughest coatings !
I add either or both of two fiberglass fillers to the can of UMA
primer BEFORE PUTTING IT ON THE PLY, so I don't have to fill the raw
wood. Base coat gets 1/8" fine glass fibers to prevent checking on
RAW fir ply, then finer milled glass fibers to fill faster and add
strength at the same time. Coarse prevents checking, fine fills
enough to sand, use a mask filter when working with these loose
fibers as you would on glass cloth, this is just making a "liquid
glass" surfacer and filler in the can.
The finest milled fiber alone in UMA primer, can be used over glass
cloth as a super filler that I still want harder and protected. The
thing I noticed is that these fibers mix very smoothly with UMA, may
not work with other primers."
Nels
tried it out yet. This was posted on another group in which a photo
of the boat was included which looked quite adequate as a "workboat
finish".
The point of my interest is that it is a water based formulation and
from a low work effort perspective seems a possible alternative to
using figerglas cloth for abrasiion resistance - althugh fiberglas
cloth can be used as well. Here is the posting:
"If it is good enough to build, it is good enough to keep from
leaking and/or rotting away. Besides I hate re-doing painting, so
it needs to be easy as possible. Recoating with the best stuff
later is often not possible, due to stronger solvents or other
product conflict or contamination. I do a couple coats of primer
with fillers in the can, 1 or 2 topcoats and done. That way I can
add cosmetic coats, but really don't have to for years.
I use UMA (Urethane Modified Acrylic Bonder from X-I-M) primer
ONLY, water based and nothing else will be as tough and allow as
many other kinds of finishes over it. Dries in 3 hours (warm
weather time). I have it mixed with 16 parts black per gallon or 4
parts black per quart to make a good neutral grey color, but it can
be tinted to match topcoats otherwise. Topcoats with latex, oil
alkyds, lacquers, epoxies and urethanes, so it works for all - even
on metal!! Yes you can roller coat this on, XXfine rollers best,
water wash up, and also saves bucks because it does not form a film
in the can, you can use it ALL. This is Industrial paint, they are
the toughest coatings !
I add either or both of two fiberglass fillers to the can of UMA
primer BEFORE PUTTING IT ON THE PLY, so I don't have to fill the raw
wood. Base coat gets 1/8" fine glass fibers to prevent checking on
RAW fir ply, then finer milled glass fibers to fill faster and add
strength at the same time. Coarse prevents checking, fine fills
enough to sand, use a mask filter when working with these loose
fibers as you would on glass cloth, this is just making a "liquid
glass" surfacer and filler in the can.
The finest milled fiber alone in UMA primer, can be used over glass
cloth as a super filler that I still want harder and protected. The
thing I noticed is that these fibers mix very smoothly with UMA, may
not work with other primers."
Nels