Re: [bolger] Re: Outboard steering
Nels thank you for the kind words. What I know comes
from doing or seeing done. Also reading a few books.
Seeing things from a few view points helps get an idea
how to make it work better. Also having to fix stuff
after you broke it tends to make you a lot wiser!
That's why I have a 1979 toyota 4x4 with 600,000 miles
on it.... If I broke it I would have to fix it. I hate
fixing stuff in the rain and mud!
Thats also the reason when I come into the dock I
don't come in any faster that I want to hit it!
Blessings Krissie
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from doing or seeing done. Also reading a few books.
Seeing things from a few view points helps get an idea
how to make it work better. Also having to fix stuff
after you broke it tends to make you a lot wiser!
That's why I have a 1979 toyota 4x4 with 600,000 miles
on it.... If I broke it I would have to fix it. I hate
fixing stuff in the rain and mud!
Thats also the reason when I come into the dock I
don't come in any faster that I want to hit it!
Blessings Krissie
> Another book I have been intending to get for a long__________________________________________________
> time. Now I will
> move it up to a "must have" from a "nice to have":-)
>
> You are such a rich source of information that you
> might consider
> charging consulting fees!
>
> We "Nautically Obsessed" boat bums are blessed in
> having you with us!
>
> Nels
>
>
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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
move it up to a "must have" from a "nice to have":-)
You are such a rich source of information that you might consider
charging consulting fees!
We "Nautically Obsessed" boat bums are blessed in having you with us!
Nels
>Another book I have been intending to get for a long time. Now I will
> Sorry when they talk about lead in a rubber it's from
> the front of the rubber to the center of the rudder
> post. It's a percentage of the rudder cord, fore and
> aft.
>
> I hope that helps clear things up. Dave Gerr's book
> Nature of Boats has some very good info on setting up
> a rudder and how to keep the tiller loads light.
>
> Blessings Krissie
>
move it up to a "must have" from a "nice to have":-)
You are such a rich source of information that you might consider
charging consulting fees!
We "Nautically Obsessed" boat bums are blessed in having you with us!
Nels
Sorry when they talk about lead in a rubber it's from
the front of the rubber to the center of the rudder
post. It's a percentage of the rudder cord, fore and
aft.
I hope that helps clear things up. Dave Gerr's book
Nature of Boats has some very good info on setting up
a rudder and how to keep the tiller loads light.
Blessings Krissie
--- Nels <arvent@...> wrote:
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the front of the rubber to the center of the rudder
post. It's a percentage of the rudder cord, fore and
aft.
I hope that helps clear things up. Dave Gerr's book
Nature of Boats has some very good info on setting up
a rudder and how to keep the tiller loads light.
Blessings Krissie
--- Nels <arvent@...> wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett__________________________________________________
> <femmpaws@...> wrote:
> >
> > I have seen a lot of boats that use that kind of
> > system you just need to have about 15% lead on the
> > rubber so the feeling on the helm is lighter.
> >
> > Krissie
> > >
> Great to hear that it might work:-)
>
> Just not certain about what you mean in the last
> part there.
>
> "15% lead on the rubber" Did you mean rudder maybe?
> Would that mean
> that if the rudder blade was pointing straight north
> the steering arm
> would be 15 degrees off to the right and the
> stationary arm 15% off to
> the left - like at 345 degrees?
>
> Sorry for the dumb questions but I have never looked
> at one these
> things at all.
>
> Nels
>
>
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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
Just not certain about what you mean in the last part there.
"15% lead on the rubber" Did you mean rudder maybe? Would that mean
that if the rudder blade was pointing straight north the steering arm
would be 15 degrees off to the right and the stationary arm 15% off to
the left - like at 345 degrees?
Sorry for the dumb questions but I have never looked at one these
things at all.
Nels
>Great to hear that it might work:-)
> I have seen a lot of boats that use that kind of
> system you just need to have about 15% lead on the
> rubber so the feeling on the helm is lighter.
>
> Krissie
> >
Just not certain about what you mean in the last part there.
"15% lead on the rubber" Did you mean rudder maybe? Would that mean
that if the rudder blade was pointing straight north the steering arm
would be 15 degrees off to the right and the stationary arm 15% off to
the left - like at 345 degrees?
Sorry for the dumb questions but I have never looked at one these
things at all.
Nels
I have seen a lot of boats that use that kind of
system you just need to have about 15% lead on the
rubber so the feeling on the helm is lighter.
Krissie
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system you just need to have about 15% lead on the
rubber so the feeling on the helm is lighter.
Krissie
>__________________________________________________
> Is there any way that a cable system like this can
> be used on a rudder?
>
>http://www.wmjmarine.com/88-1740.html
>
> Long Micro has a vertical, round, oak inboard rudder
> post that comes
> up into the free-flooding stern well and goes
> through a loose fitting
> oak support plate that is attached to the watertight
> bulkhead. The
> tiller is slotted on the end and attaches about 4"
> above the bearing
> plate, by a single through bolt. The top of the
> stern post is cut flat
> on each side to accept the tiller slot. So I would
> need some sort of
> "steering arm" fixture attached to the stern post
> between the tiller
> and the bearing plate to connect the steering cable
> . Then one would
> have to attach a stationary bracket to the bulkhead
> to mount the outer
> cable right? The steering arm would extend above the
> well, but be well
> protected. (oops a pun;-)Then the cable could be run
> behind the seat
> back and forward into the cabin.
>
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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
http://www.wmjmarine.com/88-1740.html
Long Micro has a vertical, round, oak inboard rudder post that comes
up into the free-flooding stern well and goes through a loose fitting
oak support plate that is attached to the watertight bulkhead. The
tiller is slotted on the end and attaches about 4" above the bearing
plate, by a single through bolt. The top of the stern post is cut flat
on each side to accept the tiller slot. So I would need some sort of
"steering arm" fixture attached to the stern post between the tiller
and the bearing plate to connect the steering cable . Then one would
have to attach a stationary bracket to the bulkhead to mount the outer
cable right? The steering arm would extend above the well, but be well
protected. (oops a pun;-)Then the cable could be run behind the seat
back and forward into the cabin.
How does that sound to you? (I could send photos if that would help.)
know Blondie Hasler had one on Jester.
I find it interesting that both Bolger's Fast Motorsailers have only
outside steering when sailing. Anybody know what kind of steering
system might be used on his Col. Hasler? It has no outside steering
location at all from what I can tell by the tiny diagrams.
so darned expensive and heavy to boot. Having a remote throttle and
shut off switch would really be nice.
Nels
>Is there any way that a cable system like this can be used on a rudder?
> Well I can think of a couple of ways to setup your
> steering. But I think you are wanting to couple and
> uncouple your cable steer from the tiller easy and
> FAST.
>
> Well what you can do it embed a 1/4 inch stainless
> steel pipe coupling in the bottom of your tiller so
> you can thread a male brass air coupler into it and
> then take a flatbat and drill and tap it for 1/4 inch
> pipe and thread the female end into it with Locktight
> on it and put holes in the end of the flatbar to hook
> your steering cables to the ends with the springs
> between the flatbar and the cable so you have some
> give.
http://www.wmjmarine.com/88-1740.html
Long Micro has a vertical, round, oak inboard rudder post that comes
up into the free-flooding stern well and goes through a loose fitting
oak support plate that is attached to the watertight bulkhead. The
tiller is slotted on the end and attaches about 4" above the bearing
plate, by a single through bolt. The top of the stern post is cut flat
on each side to accept the tiller slot. So I would need some sort of
"steering arm" fixture attached to the stern post between the tiller
and the bearing plate to connect the steering cable . Then one would
have to attach a stationary bracket to the bulkhead to mount the outer
cable right? The steering arm would extend above the well, but be well
protected. (oops a pun;-)Then the cable could be run behind the seat
back and forward into the cabin.
How does that sound to you? (I could send photos if that would help.)
>Any references you know of regarding one of these whipstaff hombres? I
> Hey the Whipstaff system works and has for a lot of
> years.
know Blondie Hasler had one on Jester.
I find it interesting that both Bolger's Fast Motorsailers have only
outside steering when sailing. Anybody know what kind of steering
system might be used on his Col. Hasler? It has no outside steering
location at all from what I can tell by the tiny diagrams.
>Yes the newer small outboards are not that adapable. A 9.9 4-stroke is
> As for a small motor with remote controls I don't know
> I have seen a 9.9 outfitted with them. The little
> Sears Gamefishers that had the auto clutch could be
> setup that way with a little work.
so darned expensive and heavy to boot. Having a remote throttle and
shut off switch would really be nice.
>Thanks, blessings back:-)
> Blessings Krissie
Nels
Well I can think of a couple of ways to setup your
steering. But I think you are wanting to couple and
uncouple your cable steer from the tiller easy and
FAST.
Well what you can do it embed a 1/4 inch stainless
steel pipe coupling in the bottom of your tiller so
you can thread a male brass air coupler into it and
then take a flatbat and drill and tap it for 1/4 inch
pipe and thread the female end into it with Locktight
on it and put holes in the end of the flatbar to hook
your steering cables to the ends with the springs
between the flatbar and the cable so you have some
give.
Hey the Whipstaff system works and has for a lot of
years.
As for a small motor with remote controls I don't know
I have seen a 9.9 outfitted with them. The little
Sears Gamefishers that had the auto clutch could be
setup that way with a little work.
Blessings Krissie
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steering. But I think you are wanting to couple and
uncouple your cable steer from the tiller easy and
FAST.
Well what you can do it embed a 1/4 inch stainless
steel pipe coupling in the bottom of your tiller so
you can thread a male brass air coupler into it and
then take a flatbat and drill and tap it for 1/4 inch
pipe and thread the female end into it with Locktight
on it and put holes in the end of the flatbar to hook
your steering cables to the ends with the springs
between the flatbar and the cable so you have some
give.
Hey the Whipstaff system works and has for a lot of
years.
As for a small motor with remote controls I don't know
I have seen a 9.9 outfitted with them. The little
Sears Gamefishers that had the auto clutch could be
setup that way with a little work.
Blessings Krissie
> I am considering an inside steering station on a__________________________________________________
> Long Micro with
> pilothouse. Any suggestions?
>
> I plan to steer with the rudder and not the motor.
> The interior
> steering location would be about 10' foreward of the
> stern. The
> original tiller location would still be used for
> docking and close
> manouvering. The interior location for mostly long
> tacks in the cold
> and rain, or long legs on a river or canal. (The
> mizzen can be set for
> self steering if on a steady reach).
>
> There is one system I have read about that uses an
> upright lever
> installed on the side of the hull with cables
> attached. That would be
> great if I can figure out how to connect it to the
> rudder.
>
> Also anybody know of a small motor with remote
> throttle and shifting
> capability? Or at least being able to remote the
> throttle?
>
> When it comes to motors I am still stuck in the
> 60's:-)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nels
>
>
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John if you give the rudder about 15 to 20% lead on
the rudder shafe it takes very little to swing it. I
can also see his wanting to be inside and steer the
boat...
I think a pull-pull would be a simple, easy and cheap
way to get your inside helm. Also make it so you can
use a tiller if needed.
Blessings Krissie
--- John Kohnen <jhkohnen@...> wrote:
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the rudder shafe it takes very little to swing it. I
can also see his wanting to be inside and steer the
boat...
I think a pull-pull would be a simple, easy and cheap
way to get your inside helm. Also make it so you can
use a tiller if needed.
Blessings Krissie
--- John Kohnen <jhkohnen@...> wrote:
> What's the best system? A Tiller! ;o) A wheel on a__________________________________________________
> sailboat is just a PITA
> until you get up to a boat so big, or with a nasty
> enough weather helm
> (think "catboat"), that you need the mechanical
> advantage.
>
> On Tue, 24 Apr 2007 22:45:47 -0700, Jim wrote:
>
> > I just finished a captians wheel for my Bolger
> light scooner. I'm
> > planning on running the tiller through the transom
> something like the
> > catboat and then running it on a cable system. Of
> course I will be
> > making a hatch in the back to get to things.
> >
> > What do you think would be the best system for a
> sailboat like this
> > one. Diagrams would be nice.
> > ...
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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John Kohnen" <jhkohnen@...> wrote:
pilothouse. Any suggestions?
I plan to steer with the rudder and not the motor. The interior
steering location would be about 10' foreward of the stern. The
original tiller location would still be used for docking and close
manouvering. The interior location for mostly long tacks in the cold
and rain, or long legs on a river or canal. (The mizzen can be set for
self steering if on a steady reach).
There is one system I have read about that uses an upright lever
installed on the side of the hull with cables attached. That would be
great if I can figure out how to connect it to the rudder.
Also anybody know of a small motor with remote throttle and shifting
capability? Or at least being able to remote the throttle?
When it comes to motors I am still stuck in the 60's:-)
Thanks,
Nels
>a PITA
> What's the best system? A Tiller! ;o) A wheel on a sailboat is just
> until you get up to a boat so big, or with a nasty enough weather helmI am considering an inside steering station on a Long Micro with
> (think "catboat"), that you need the mechanical advantage.
>
pilothouse. Any suggestions?
I plan to steer with the rudder and not the motor. The interior
steering location would be about 10' foreward of the stern. The
original tiller location would still be used for docking and close
manouvering. The interior location for mostly long tacks in the cold
and rain, or long legs on a river or canal. (The mizzen can be set for
self steering if on a steady reach).
There is one system I have read about that uses an upright lever
installed on the side of the hull with cables attached. That would be
great if I can figure out how to connect it to the rudder.
Also anybody know of a small motor with remote throttle and shifting
capability? Or at least being able to remote the throttle?
When it comes to motors I am still stuck in the 60's:-)
Thanks,
Nels
What's the best system? A Tiller! ;o) A wheel on a sailboat is just a PITA
until you get up to a boat so big, or with a nasty enough weather helm
(think "catboat"), that you need the mechanical advantage.
until you get up to a boat so big, or with a nasty enough weather helm
(think "catboat"), that you need the mechanical advantage.
On Tue, 24 Apr 2007 22:45:47 -0700, Jim wrote:
> I just finished a captians wheel for my Bolger light scooner. I'm
> planning on running the tiller through the transom something like the
> catboat and then running it on a cable system. Of course I will be
> making a hatch in the back to get to things.
>
> What do you think would be the best system for a sailboat like this
> one. Diagrams would be nice.
> ...
--
John <jkohnen@...>
All the troubles of man come from his not knowing how to sit
still. <Blaise Pascal>
Ok here is the web address for Ultra-Flex
www.uflexusa.com
I have seen the inside of them and they are well made
and well worth the little extra you may have to pay
for them. I will also try to ass this to the links as
well.
Blessings Krissie
--- "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@...> wrote:
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www.uflexusa.com
I have seen the inside of them and they are well made
and well worth the little extra you may have to pay
for them. I will also try to ass this to the links as
well.
Blessings Krissie
--- "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@...> wrote:
> Kristine__________________________________________________
> I will try again I hate it when you push send and
> yaha sends you to
> sign in. Could you send the link to me E in profile
> or put it in the
> links section. Hydo always leaks sumwhere some time
> from my
> exspereance as a millwright.
>
> Jon
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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
planning on running the tiller through the transom something like the
catboat and then running it on a cable system. Of course I will be
making a hatch in the back to get to things.
What do you think would be the best system for a sailboat like this
one. Diagrams would be nice.
I am thinking about buying a used boat for trailer and system.
Jim
>action=map2&catId=447
> >
> > Bruce, I had no problem with a teleflex no-feedback
> > safety-head system on my Topaz.
>
> Sam, thanks! Can you say more exactly which parts?
>
> It looks like Jamestown has this...
>
>http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/siteMap.do?
>I just finished a captians wheel for my Bolger light scooner. I'm
planning on running the tiller through the transom something like the
catboat and then running it on a cable system. Of course I will be
making a hatch in the back to get to things.
What do you think would be the best system for a sailboat like this
one. Diagrams would be nice.
I am thinking about buying a used boat for trailer and system.
Jim
Kristine
I will try again I hate it when you push send and yaha sends you to
sign in. Could you send the link to me E in profile or put it in the
links section. Hydo always leaks sumwhere some time from my
exspereance as a millwright.
Jon
I will try again I hate it when you push send and yaha sends you to
sign in. Could you send the link to me E in profile or put it in the
links section. Hydo always leaks sumwhere some time from my
exspereance as a millwright.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
>
> OK the stuff I use is PB blaster and your Car Quest
> stores should have it. It's a maybe at your Napa.
>
> If you stay with a push-pull cable system. Do yourself
> a major favor stay away from the Telaflex unit. The
> Ultraflex are better and stronger. I can get you the
> address for them if you like.
>
> Their heads are a three pinon plantary unit. Cables
> are the smoothest I've felt for both stearing and
> controles.
>
> What sold me was their display with a 20 foot cable
> coiled up and the coils were about 14 inches across
> and a 50 or 60 lb weight hanging from the outboard end
> of it. It worked like there was no load there.
>
> Where I work we make the Unihelm for RIBs and it's the
> only helm that the owner found to hold up over the
> long run. It's also the only cable system I will use
> on my OWN BOAT!
>
> Yes hydraulic it nice but if you are having trouble
> with a cable system you are also likely to have the
> same hassles with the hydraulic system as well. Also
> look closely at what ram system you are going to get
> if you go that way.
>
> Blessings Krissie
> --- ghartc <gregg.carlson@...> wrote:
>
> > Krissie,
> >
> > I think rust inside the tilt tube is the biggest
> > problem. When the
> > boat sits idle, it jams up. I've pulled the zerks
> > and squirted lots of
> > WD40, which does next to nothing (I'll try your
> > stuff). Unfortunately,
> > I think I've got to now pull the motor and pound the
> > shaft out of the
> > tilt tube.
> >
> > I used a "non-internal" teleflex on my sneakeasy -
> > i.e. outside the
> > tilt tube - that points at the motor with a U-joint
> > bracket. You can
> > cheat the bend a little if necessary. It worked
> > fine (fresh water),
> > though the gearhead is a pot-metal, plastic-geared
> > and pop-riveted
> > piece of junk. If it ever jams, a 6-year-old can
> > strip the gears.
> >
> > Perhaps the rack-gear models are better, though the
> > hydraulic appears
> > to be the Cadillac. Much easier to add a second
> > helm or autohelm to, too.
> >
> > Gregg
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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>
OK the stuff I use is PB blaster and your Car Quest
stores should have it. It's a maybe at your Napa.
If you stay with a push-pull cable system. Do yourself
a major favor stay away from the Telaflex unit. The
Ultraflex are better and stronger. I can get you the
address for them if you like.
Their heads are a three pinon plantary unit. Cables
are the smoothest I've felt for both stearing and
controles.
What sold me was their display with a 20 foot cable
coiled up and the coils were about 14 inches across
and a 50 or 60 lb weight hanging from the outboard end
of it. It worked like there was no load there.
Where I work we make the Unihelm for RIBs and it's the
only helm that the owner found to hold up over the
long run. It's also the only cable system I will use
on my OWN BOAT!
Yes hydraulic it nice but if you are having trouble
with a cable system you are also likely to have the
same hassles with the hydraulic system as well. Also
look closely at what ram system you are going to get
if you go that way.
Blessings Krissie
--- ghartc <gregg.carlson@...> wrote:
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stores should have it. It's a maybe at your Napa.
If you stay with a push-pull cable system. Do yourself
a major favor stay away from the Telaflex unit. The
Ultraflex are better and stronger. I can get you the
address for them if you like.
Their heads are a three pinon plantary unit. Cables
are the smoothest I've felt for both stearing and
controles.
What sold me was their display with a 20 foot cable
coiled up and the coils were about 14 inches across
and a 50 or 60 lb weight hanging from the outboard end
of it. It worked like there was no load there.
Where I work we make the Unihelm for RIBs and it's the
only helm that the owner found to hold up over the
long run. It's also the only cable system I will use
on my OWN BOAT!
Yes hydraulic it nice but if you are having trouble
with a cable system you are also likely to have the
same hassles with the hydraulic system as well. Also
look closely at what ram system you are going to get
if you go that way.
Blessings Krissie
--- ghartc <gregg.carlson@...> wrote:
> Krissie,__________________________________________________
>
> I think rust inside the tilt tube is the biggest
> problem. When the
> boat sits idle, it jams up. I've pulled the zerks
> and squirted lots of
> WD40, which does next to nothing (I'll try your
> stuff). Unfortunately,
> I think I've got to now pull the motor and pound the
> shaft out of the
> tilt tube.
>
> I used a "non-internal" teleflex on my sneakeasy -
> i.e. outside the
> tilt tube - that points at the motor with a U-joint
> bracket. You can
> cheat the bend a little if necessary. It worked
> fine (fresh water),
> though the gearhead is a pot-metal, plastic-geared
> and pop-riveted
> piece of junk. If it ever jams, a 6-year-old can
> strip the gears.
>
> Perhaps the rack-gear models are better, though the
> hydraulic appears
> to be the Cadillac. Much easier to add a second
> helm or autohelm to, too.
>
> Gregg
>
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Bruce, my memory is that the "QC" designates a "quick
connect" system, which is nice but not helpful after
hook-up, that I used the "Safe-T" rotary helm, which
is rated for up to 25' boats but is plenty for the
light-displacement 31' Topaz, and that the
no-feed-back system was great for the Topaz, which
tends to track straight and will tend itself with this
system on many tracks. Sam
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
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connect" system, which is nice but not helpful after
hook-up, that I used the "Safe-T" rotary helm, which
is rated for up to 25' boats but is plenty for the
light-displacement 31' Topaz, and that the
no-feed-back system was great for the Topaz, which
tends to track straight and will tend itself with this
system on many tracks. Sam
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
> >http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/siteMap.do?action=map2&catId=447
> > Bruce, I had no problem with a teleflex
> no-feedback
> > safety-head system on my Topaz.
>
> Sam, thanks! Can you say more exactly which parts?
>
> It looks like Jamestown has this...
>
>
>__________________________________________________
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Krissie,
I think rust inside the tilt tube is the biggest problem. When the
boat sits idle, it jams up. I've pulled the zerks and squirted lots of
WD40, which does next to nothing (I'll try your stuff). Unfortunately,
I think I've got to now pull the motor and pound the shaft out of the
tilt tube.
I used a "non-internal" teleflex on my sneakeasy - i.e. outside the
tilt tube - that points at the motor with a U-joint bracket. You can
cheat the bend a little if necessary. It worked fine (fresh water),
though the gearhead is a pot-metal, plastic-geared and pop-riveted
piece of junk. If it ever jams, a 6-year-old can strip the gears.
Perhaps the rack-gear models are better, though the hydraulic appears
to be the Cadillac. Much easier to add a second helm or autohelm to, too.
Gregg
I think rust inside the tilt tube is the biggest problem. When the
boat sits idle, it jams up. I've pulled the zerks and squirted lots of
WD40, which does next to nothing (I'll try your stuff). Unfortunately,
I think I've got to now pull the motor and pound the shaft out of the
tilt tube.
I used a "non-internal" teleflex on my sneakeasy - i.e. outside the
tilt tube - that points at the motor with a U-joint bracket. You can
cheat the bend a little if necessary. It worked fine (fresh water),
though the gearhead is a pot-metal, plastic-geared and pop-riveted
piece of junk. If it ever jams, a 6-year-old can strip the gears.
Perhaps the rack-gear models are better, though the hydraulic appears
to be the Cadillac. Much easier to add a second helm or autohelm to, too.
Gregg
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
> I like the ultra-flex system over all of the cable
> sustems. They are a better system over all.
>
> When I was working on the outboards having the cable
> freeze in the tilt tube was something we saw a lot.
>
> Take the nut that holds the cable to the tilt tube and
> spray some JB blaster in the tube and on the other end
> as well. and let it sit. Take the draglink off the end
> of the cable and put a bolt with the same shank size
> in the hold and tap on the end of the cable with a
> hard hammer or a block of wood and a hammer.
>
> IF you get the cable out take a 5/8 drill and clean
> the bore out. You are going to find the tube is full
> of rust. You may need to have a short shaft added to
> the end of the drill bit.
>
> When you put it together pack the tube with a
> waterproof grease before you put the cable back in.
> ALSO get the tilt tube nut that has a seal and a
> grease fitting on it so you can add grease to the
> cable system.
>
> Also you are right the push-pull steering system don't
> like sharp bends I think they say 6" radi bends max...
> But I have seen them with tighter bends than that and
> still working fine. But for how long?
>
> Blessings Krissie
>Sam, thanks! Can you say more exactly which parts?
> Bruce, I had no problem with a teleflex no-feedback
> safety-head system on my Topaz.
It looks like Jamestown has this...
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/siteMap.do?action=map2&catId=447
Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
-- Sue --
(ducking and running)
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
>Sure, but can I use teflon tape on them?
> Also DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE ON YOUR HYDRAULIC
> FITTINGS! I will repeat DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE ON YOUR
> HYDRAULIC FITTINGS!!
-- Sue --
(ducking and running)
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
Also DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE ON YOUR HYDRAULIC
FITTINES! I will repeat DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE ON YOUR
HYDRAULIC FITTINGS!!
Loc-tight makes seal-loc that is what we used at a
couple of shops where I worked and we never had a
fitting leak IF they let the stuff setup over a couple
of days.
Blessings Krissie
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FITTINES! I will repeat DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE ON YOUR
HYDRAULIC FITTINGS!!
Loc-tight makes seal-loc that is what we used at a
couple of shops where I worked and we never had a
fitting leak IF they let the stuff setup over a couple
of days.
Blessings Krissie
> P.S. Be careful and follow directions religiously__________________________________________________
> when installing
> hydraulic systems. My dealer left the thread
> compound off the helm
> fittings, and we nearly lost steering on our maiden
> voyage when the
> fluid was lost. I was not a happy camper...
>
>
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I like the ultra-flex system over all of the cable
sustems. They are a better system over all.
When I was working on the outboards having the cable
freeze in the tilt tube was something we saw a lot.
Take the nut that holds the cable to the tilt tube and
spray some JB blaster in the tube and on the other end
as well. and let it sit. Take the draglink off the end
of the cable and put a bolt with the same shank size
in the hold and tap on the end of the cable with a
hard hammer or a block of wood and a hammer.
IF you get the cable out take a 5/8 drill and clean
the bore out. You are going to find the tube is full
of rust. You may need to have a short shaft added to
the end of the drill bit.
When you put it together pack the tube with a
waterproof grease before you put the cable back in.
ALSO get the tilt tube nut that has a seal and a
grease fitting on it so you can add grease to the
cable system.
Also you are right the push-pull steering system don't
like sharp bends I think they say 6" radi bends max...
But I have seen them with tighter bends than that and
still working fine. But for how long?
Blessings Krissie
--- ghartc <gregg.carlson@...> wrote:
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sustems. They are a better system over all.
When I was working on the outboards having the cable
freeze in the tilt tube was something we saw a lot.
Take the nut that holds the cable to the tilt tube and
spray some JB blaster in the tube and on the other end
as well. and let it sit. Take the draglink off the end
of the cable and put a bolt with the same shank size
in the hold and tap on the end of the cable with a
hard hammer or a block of wood and a hammer.
IF you get the cable out take a 5/8 drill and clean
the bore out. You are going to find the tube is full
of rust. You may need to have a short shaft added to
the end of the drill bit.
When you put it together pack the tube with a
waterproof grease before you put the cable back in.
ALSO get the tilt tube nut that has a seal and a
grease fitting on it so you can add grease to the
cable system.
Also you are right the push-pull steering system don't
like sharp bends I think they say 6" radi bends max...
But I have seen them with tighter bends than that and
still working fine. But for how long?
Blessings Krissie
--- ghartc <gregg.carlson@...> wrote:
> Hi -__________________________________________________
>
> I have a teleflex-style push-pull steering setup on
> a 31'
> sneakeasy-type boat. It's given me nothing but
> grief in saltwater,
> but the morse cable will be next to impossible to
> replace. I think
> the tight bend at the motor due to the narrow beam
> doesn't help, and
> I've stripped a gearbox trying to force it. The
> motor's a 70 Yamaha.
>
> Does anyone have experience or opinions on hydraulic
> or the old
> pull-pull cable steering? The hydraulic setups are
> pretty expensive,
> and I wonder why the cable-and-pulley-and-drum
> systems are no longer
> used. Maybe they are stiff, or perhaps dangerous if
> one side lets go?
> I've just never used one.
>
> Any good sources?
>
> Gregg Carlson
>
>
>
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Bruce, I had no problem with a teleflex no-feedback
safety-head system on my Topaz. I ran in salt most of
the time and never had the slightest problem over
several years. I have used drum and cable, hydraulic,
teleflex and now chain and sprocket systems in various
boats--all can cause problems, and will, given enough
time, but the teleflex system on my Topaz was flawless
over five years, despite the tight radii--tighter at
the helm than the engine, by the way. Sam
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
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safety-head system on my Topaz. I ran in salt most of
the time and never had the slightest problem over
several years. I have used drum and cable, hydraulic,
teleflex and now chain and sprocket systems in various
boats--all can cause problems, and will, given enough
time, but the teleflex system on my Topaz was flawless
over five years, despite the tight radii--tighter at
the helm than the engine, by the way. Sam
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
> > I have a teleflex-style push-pull steering setuphttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230118630079
> on a 31'
> > sneakeasy-type boat. It's given me nothing but
> grief in saltwater,
>
> I am exceedingly interested in hearing an answer to
> your question, as
> I am immediately faced with a similar decision for
> my own 31' long
> narrow boat. Topaz.
>
> Indeed the hydraulic system costs upward of $800,
> ouch.
>
> You have seen that new Teleflex cables cost 5% of
> that, I suspect:
>
>
>__________________________________________________
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Have you tried at the tech support link here?
http://www.teleflexmarine.com/steering-us/
It seems 8" radius bends are the minimum allowed?
Nels
http://www.teleflexmarine.com/steering-us/
It seems 8" radius bends are the minimum allowed?
Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "ghartc" <gregg.carlson@...> wrote:
>
> Hi -
>
> I have a teleflex-style push-pull steering setup on a 31'
> sneakeasy-type boat.
>
> Gregg Carlson
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
less. Baystar can be had for around $500:
http://www.foreandaftmarine.com/1-BAYSTAR.htm
I too had nothing but grief with my RIB 40hp teleflex rig in
saltwater. It would seize up about once a year, regardless of how it
was lubed. After 3 cables and two helms over 10 years, I went with
Baystar in my new CC runabout (150hp). No problems with seizing up
yet, though it's just a year old. I plan to stick with hydraulic
steering in the future (when my teenagers are out and away I plan to
scale back to slower and lower horsepower toys a la Bolger ;) ).
Neil S.
P.S. Be careful and follow directions religiously when installing
hydraulic systems. My dealer left the thread compound off the helm
fittings, and we nearly lost steering on our maiden voyage when the
fluid was lost. I was not a happy camper...
>You don't need the heavy duty hydraulic systems if you're 150hp or
> > I have a teleflex-style push-pull steering setup on a 31'
> > sneakeasy-type boat. It's given me nothing but grief in saltwater,
>
> I am exceedingly interested in hearing an answer to your question, as
> I am immediately faced with a similar decision for my own 31' long
> narrow boat. Topaz.
>
> Indeed the hydraulic system costs upward of $800, ouch.
>
less. Baystar can be had for around $500:
http://www.foreandaftmarine.com/1-BAYSTAR.htm
I too had nothing but grief with my RIB 40hp teleflex rig in
saltwater. It would seize up about once a year, regardless of how it
was lubed. After 3 cables and two helms over 10 years, I went with
Baystar in my new CC runabout (150hp). No problems with seizing up
yet, though it's just a year old. I plan to stick with hydraulic
steering in the future (when my teenagers are out and away I plan to
scale back to slower and lower horsepower toys a la Bolger ;) ).
Neil S.
P.S. Be careful and follow directions religiously when installing
hydraulic systems. My dealer left the thread compound off the helm
fittings, and we nearly lost steering on our maiden voyage when the
fluid was lost. I was not a happy camper...
> I have a teleflex-style push-pull steering setup on a 31'I am exceedingly interested in hearing an answer to your question, as
> sneakeasy-type boat. It's given me nothing but grief in saltwater,
I am immediately faced with a similar decision for my own 31' long
narrow boat. Topaz.
Indeed the hydraulic system costs upward of $800, ouch.
You have seen that new Teleflex cables cost 5% of that, I suspect:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230118630079
Hi -
I have a teleflex-style push-pull steering setup on a 31'
sneakeasy-type boat. It's given me nothing but grief in saltwater,
but the morse cable will be next to impossible to replace. I think
the tight bend at the motor due to the narrow beam doesn't help, and
I've stripped a gearbox trying to force it. The motor's a 70 Yamaha.
Does anyone have experience or opinions on hydraulic or the old
pull-pull cable steering? The hydraulic setups are pretty expensive,
and I wonder why the cable-and-pulley-and-drum systems are no longer
used. Maybe they are stiff, or perhaps dangerous if one side lets go?
I've just never used one.
Any good sources?
Gregg Carlson
I have a teleflex-style push-pull steering setup on a 31'
sneakeasy-type boat. It's given me nothing but grief in saltwater,
but the morse cable will be next to impossible to replace. I think
the tight bend at the motor due to the narrow beam doesn't help, and
I've stripped a gearbox trying to force it. The motor's a 70 Yamaha.
Does anyone have experience or opinions on hydraulic or the old
pull-pull cable steering? The hydraulic setups are pretty expensive,
and I wonder why the cable-and-pulley-and-drum systems are no longer
used. Maybe they are stiff, or perhaps dangerous if one side lets go?
I've just never used one.
Any good sources?
Gregg Carlson