Re: [bolger] Re: rooting puppy syndrome (at anchor)
Seth
Have you tried anchoring from the stern?
HJ
macinkos wrote:
Have you tried anchoring from the stern?
HJ
macinkos wrote:
> Well,... thanks to those who replied so far.
>
> I have to say this seems to be rather like a "dirty little secret" of the sharpie
> designs. Are owners otherwise too fond and too proud of their crafts to
> discuss this lamentable feature in public? You'd think someone would have
> addressed the issue, and hopefully, solution, openly before. I'll try some
> experiments and report back.
>
> Seth
>
>
>
>
My trawler Alligator does this too, with a very heavy anchor chain. It
doesn't really root or sail to the anchor, but it swings.
Counterintuitive, but a plate, if swiveled near the center of
pressure, will try to face its largest face othogonal to the wind.
Moving the point of swivel as far away from the center of pressure
helps - i.e. swivel forward and/or riding sail way back. I suspect
rigging the boom off the centerline, so the boom does not point at the
bow may reduce oscillations.
Trimarans are awful at anchor, too - a bridle is the only way to fix
it, which moves the swivel point forward. I wonder if a split snubber
could be rigged to snap on the anchor line/chain and run to the sides
of the boat.
Gregg Carlson
doesn't really root or sail to the anchor, but it swings.
Counterintuitive, but a plate, if swiveled near the center of
pressure, will try to face its largest face othogonal to the wind.
Moving the point of swivel as far away from the center of pressure
helps - i.e. swivel forward and/or riding sail way back. I suspect
rigging the boom off the centerline, so the boom does not point at the
bow may reduce oscillations.
Trimarans are awful at anchor, too - a bridle is the only way to fix
it, which moves the swivel point forward. I wonder if a split snubber
could be rigged to snap on the anchor line/chain and run to the sides
of the boat.
Gregg Carlson
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Chester Young" <chester@...> wrote:
>
> I am truly hoping that a mizzen or riding sail fixes the issue. I
have not
> had time to put one on Esther Mae, but certainly agree something
needs to be
> done to stop the rooting. That in conjunction with the bow slap can be
> annoying when trying to sleep. Motor up or down seems to make very
little
> difference when anchored, unless the water is so shallow as to act
like an
> anchor on the stern. As noted previously I have anchored stern first to
> eliminate the bow slap, this seems to slow the rooting also, but
would be
> problematic on a full time mooring.
I am truly hoping that a mizzen or riding sail fixes the issue. I have not
had time to put one on Esther Mae, but certainly agree something needs to be
done to stop the rooting. That in conjunction with the bow slap can be
annoying when trying to sleep. Motor up or down seems to make very little
difference when anchored, unless the water is so shallow as to act like an
anchor on the stern. As noted previously I have anchored stern first to
eliminate the bow slap, this seems to slow the rooting also, but would be
problematic on a full time mooring.
Caloosarat
_____
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Kenneth Grome
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 10:13 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: rooting puppy syndrome (at anchor)
Sorry if this has been mentioned but I'm coming in late on this thread. Have
you tried putting mizzen sail on the boat and leaving it up?
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
had time to put one on Esther Mae, but certainly agree something needs to be
done to stop the rooting. That in conjunction with the bow slap can be
annoying when trying to sleep. Motor up or down seems to make very little
difference when anchored, unless the water is so shallow as to act like an
anchor on the stern. As noted previously I have anchored stern first to
eliminate the bow slap, this seems to slow the rooting also, but would be
problematic on a full time mooring.
Caloosarat
_____
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Kenneth Grome
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 10:13 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: rooting puppy syndrome (at anchor)
Sorry if this has been mentioned but I'm coming in late on this thread. Have
you tried putting mizzen sail on the boat and leaving it up?
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Sorry if this has been mentioned but I'm coming in late on this thread. Have
you tried putting mizzen sail on the boat and leaving it up?
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
you tried putting mizzen sail on the boat and leaving it up?
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
Thanks Peter.
I'll relay a few more facts--- I'm on a permanent mooring (but may have to give
it up if the "rooting"issue can't be ameliorated--it is getting serious as the
afternoon winds are building as summer comes and the boat routinely swings
completely broad side to the winds and the swings are pretty violent) and the
penant is supplied to me. It is pretty short (about 12 feet) and I lead it up to a
tow bit via a chock that is dead-on the centerline of the bow.
I guess I can put a bow eye in lower on the stem and try that but I really don't
see it making a big difference.
Seth--thinking I should have put my name in on the list for a slip .......
I'll relay a few more facts--- I'm on a permanent mooring (but may have to give
it up if the "rooting"issue can't be ameliorated--it is getting serious as the
afternoon winds are building as summer comes and the boat routinely swings
completely broad side to the winds and the swings are pretty violent) and the
penant is supplied to me. It is pretty short (about 12 feet) and I lead it up to a
tow bit via a chock that is dead-on the centerline of the bow.
I guess I can put a bow eye in lower on the stem and try that but I really don't
see it making a big difference.
Seth--thinking I should have put my name in on the list for a slip .......
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@...> wrote:
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "macinkos" <smacinko@...> wrote:
I haven't been posting for a while nor posting any progress
pictures(can't figure out how to get them out of a digital
camera),ie; haven't launched yet BUT in response to the rooting
puppy syndrome, I would suggest the following:
1) secure the anchor rhode to an eyebolt coming straight out of the
stem( if a small boat) or through a fairlead located dead on the
centerline( if a bigger and heavier boat is contemplated).
2) use heavier then really needed ground tackle and anchor.
3) keep her on a really short and tight scope.
Point number one will at least hopefully give her nose the chance to
stay in line with the anchor rhode,unlike the side mounted fairleads
used by some for anchoring when they are better suited for tying up
to a quay.Point number two will help overcome some of the effects of
odd zyphers blowing not perfectly along the centerline and allow for
point number three to be effectively implemented thus keeping that
puppy on a short leash :-)
A forward placed centerboard or daggerboard may certainly help if
one is at anchor,instead of a permanent mooring.
Looking forward to your test results as I continue to plug away on
the forever-fussy-custom-yacht-interior styling that I am attempting
on board Windermere.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, happy for the arrival,finally,of some warmer weather
so that I can dust off ye olde cooler and charge her up with ice ta
keep the beer cold...........ah yes..........from along the shores
of the estival St.Lawrence...............
>of the sharpie
> Well,... thanks to those who replied so far.
>
> I have to say this seems to be rather like a "dirty little secret"
> designs. Are owners otherwise too fond and too proud of theircrafts to
> discuss this lamentable feature in public? You'd think someonewould have
> addressed the issue, and hopefully, solution, openly before. I'lltry some
> experiments and report back.Hi Seth,
>
> Seth
>
I haven't been posting for a while nor posting any progress
pictures(can't figure out how to get them out of a digital
camera),ie; haven't launched yet BUT in response to the rooting
puppy syndrome, I would suggest the following:
1) secure the anchor rhode to an eyebolt coming straight out of the
stem( if a small boat) or through a fairlead located dead on the
centerline( if a bigger and heavier boat is contemplated).
2) use heavier then really needed ground tackle and anchor.
3) keep her on a really short and tight scope.
Point number one will at least hopefully give her nose the chance to
stay in line with the anchor rhode,unlike the side mounted fairleads
used by some for anchoring when they are better suited for tying up
to a quay.Point number two will help overcome some of the effects of
odd zyphers blowing not perfectly along the centerline and allow for
point number three to be effectively implemented thus keeping that
puppy on a short leash :-)
A forward placed centerboard or daggerboard may certainly help if
one is at anchor,instead of a permanent mooring.
Looking forward to your test results as I continue to plug away on
the forever-fussy-custom-yacht-interior styling that I am attempting
on board Windermere.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, happy for the arrival,finally,of some warmer weather
so that I can dust off ye olde cooler and charge her up with ice ta
keep the beer cold...........ah yes..........from along the shores
of the estival St.Lawrence...............
derbyrm wrote:
around enthusiastically. I've tried sinking weighted buckets off of the
bow in hopes of giving the forefoot a little more bite. That didn't work
either. As I said before, the only thing that worked was to anchor bow
and stern.
> It would be interesting to try running the anchor's line to the quarter with a spring to the bow. Sort of building in a bias to sag off to one side (and stay there).I've tried exactly what you suggest. No joy. The boat still sailed
>
around enthusiastically. I've tried sinking weighted buckets off of the
bow in hopes of giving the forefoot a little more bite. That didn't work
either. As I said before, the only thing that worked was to anchor bow
and stern.
How about a lightweight anchor off the stern, just enough to keep
pointed into the wind?
DC
pointed into the wind?
DC
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "macinkos" <smacinko@...> wrote:
>
> Well,... thanks to those who replied so far.
>
> I have to say this seems to be rather like a "dirty little secret"
of the sharpie
> designs. Are owners otherwise too fond and too proud of their crafts to
> discuss this lamentable feature in public? You'd think someone would
have
> addressed the issue, and hopefully, solution, openly before. I'll
try some
> experiments and report back.
>
> Seth
>
It would be interesting to try running the anchor's line to the quarter with a spring to the bow. Sort of building in a bias to sag off to one side (and stay there).
Roger (not experience, just an idea)
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
Roger (not experience, just an idea)
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: macinkos
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 1:54 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: rooting puppy syndrome (at anchor)
Well,... thanks to those who replied so far.
I have to say this seems to be rather like a "dirty little secret" of the sharpie
designs. Are owners otherwise too fond and too proud of their crafts to
discuss this lamentable feature in public? You'd think someone would have
addressed the issue, and hopefully, solution, openly before. I'll try some
experiments and report back.
Seth
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Well,... thanks to those who replied so far.
I have to say this seems to be rather like a "dirty little secret" of the sharpie
designs. Are owners otherwise too fond and too proud of their crafts to
discuss this lamentable feature in public? You'd think someone would have
addressed the issue, and hopefully, solution, openly before. I'll try some
experiments and report back.
Seth
I have to say this seems to be rather like a "dirty little secret" of the sharpie
designs. Are owners otherwise too fond and too proud of their crafts to
discuss this lamentable feature in public? You'd think someone would have
addressed the issue, and hopefully, solution, openly before. I'll try some
experiments and report back.
Seth
In retrospect, that makes sense to me. A sharpie doesn't really have
a forefoot and I guess that's why it's so easy for it to move around
at anchor. Once the bow is off a bit, the current pushes against one
side more than the other, sending it further off. A skeg would just
give it something to pivot on.
PCB has specified a forward daggerboard in some of his power sharpie
designs. I guess they'd help at anchor or a mooring.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...>
wrote:
a forefoot and I guess that's why it's so easy for it to move around
at anchor. Once the bow is off a bit, the current pushes against one
side more than the other, sending it further off. A skeg would just
give it something to pivot on.
PCB has specified a forward daggerboard in some of his power sharpie
designs. I guess they'd help at anchor or a mooring.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...>
wrote:
>
> With the Topaz--big house, light hull, shallow
> underbody--I found she would root so badly with the
> motor down that I couldn't sleep on her in any
> current. She would pivot around the lower unit, the
> bow would blow off, she would "sail" across the
> current and fetch up hard. With the motor up she was
> pretty good-natured on the hook. Based on this, if I
> were going to try a mooring daggerboard or skeg, I
> would want it at the bow, not the stern.
> > Two possible remedies:
> >
> > 1. Attach the boat to the mooring with a towing eye
> > low on the stem.
> >
> > 2. Make up a skeg - something like an outboard
> > rudder that doesn't
> > swing --- and fit it to the transom when moored.
> > Maybe you could try
> > this idea first with an oar.
> >
> > These are untested ideas that might be worth a try.
With the Topaz--big house, light hull, shallow
underbody--I found she would root so badly with the
motor down that I couldn't sleep on her in any
current. She would pivot around the lower unit, the
bow would blow off, she would "sail" across the
current and fetch up hard. With the motor up she was
pretty good-natured on the hook. Based on this, if I
were going to try a mooring daggerboard or skeg, I
would want it at the bow, not the stern. Sam
--- Howard Stephenson <howardstephenson@...>
wrote:
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
underbody--I found she would root so badly with the
motor down that I couldn't sleep on her in any
current. She would pivot around the lower unit, the
bow would blow off, she would "sail" across the
current and fetch up hard. With the motor up she was
pretty good-natured on the hook. Based on this, if I
were going to try a mooring daggerboard or skeg, I
would want it at the bow, not the stern. Sam
--- Howard Stephenson <howardstephenson@...>
wrote:
> Two possible remedies:__________________________________________________
>
> 1. Attach the boat to the mooring with a towing eye
> low on the stem.
>
> 2. Make up a skeg - something like an outboard
> rudder that doesn't
> swing --- and fit it to the transom when moored.
> Maybe you could try
> this idea first with an oar.
>
> These are untested ideas that might be worth a try.
>
> Howard
>
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
My AF4 had the same problem. The only thing that worked was to take
advantage of the type's shallow draft and and anchor bow and stern in an
out of the way place.
I think the reason for sailing at anchor was high windage, shallow
draft, and light weight.
macinkos wrote:
advantage of the type's shallow draft and and anchor bow and stern in an
out of the way place.
I think the reason for sailing at anchor was high windage, shallow
draft, and light weight.
macinkos wrote:
> Frank raises an interesting point (see below) about the behavior of the
> sharpie hulls at anchor/mooring.
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@...> wrote:
>
>> Matthew,
>>
>> * Sail
>> A steadying sail is an interesting idea. It turns out that the house
>> isn't like a mizzen at all. At anchor, the boat roots around like a
>> puppy dog on a leash!
>>
>>
>
> I have a Tennessee that does this to extreme. It did it with the original design
> and it does it now with my modfied house (think somewhere between
> Champlain and Windermere--sorry Peter, sorry PB&F...), so I don't think it has
> to do with the superstructure as much as the flat bottom. In any case, any
> ideas for damping the swings a bit? It really isn't possible to exaggerate how
> much the "puppy on a leash" metaphor applies. I'm used to it but I'm worried
> that when the mooring field fills in, my neighbors may be a bit alarmed and it
> could in fact be a problem/danger if the swing spaces are too tight under the
> assumption that everybody generally swings roughly the same direction/time.
>
> Seth
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Two possible remedies:
1. Attach the boat to the mooring with a towing eye low on the stem.
2. Make up a skeg - something like an outboard rudder that doesn't
swing --- and fit it to the transom when moored. Maybe you could try
this idea first with an oar.
These are untested ideas that might be worth a try.
Howard
1. Attach the boat to the mooring with a towing eye low on the stem.
2. Make up a skeg - something like an outboard rudder that doesn't
swing --- and fit it to the transom when moored. Maybe you could try
this idea first with an oar.
These are untested ideas that might be worth a try.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "macinkos" <smacinko@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Frank raises an interesting point (see below) about the behavior
of the
> sharpie hulls at anchor/mooring.
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@> wrote:
> >
> > Matthew,
> >
> > * Sail
> > A steadying sail is an interesting idea. It turns out that the
house
> > isn't like a mizzen at all. At anchor, the boat roots around
like a
> > puppy dog on a leash!
> >
>
> I have a Tennessee that does this to extreme. It did it with the
original design
> and it does it now with my modfied house (think somewhere between
> Champlain and Windermere--sorry Peter, sorry PB&F...), so I don't
think it has
> to do with the superstructure as much as the flat bottom. In any
case, any
> ideas for damping the swings a bit? It really isn't possible to
exaggerate how
> much the "puppy on a leash" metaphor applies. I'm used to it but
I'm worried
> that when the mooring field fills in, my neighbors may be a bit
alarmed and it
> could in fact be a problem/danger if the swing spaces are too
tight under the
> assumption that everybody generally swings roughly the same
direction/time.
>
Frank raises an interesting point (see below) about the behavior of the
sharpie hulls at anchor/mooring.
sharpie hulls at anchor/mooring.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@...> wrote:
>
> Matthew,
>
> * Sail
> A steadying sail is an interesting idea. It turns out that the house
> isn't like a mizzen at all. At anchor, the boat roots around like a
> puppy dog on a leash!
>
I have a Tennessee that does this to extreme. It did it with the original design
and it does it now with my modfied house (think somewhere between
Champlain and Windermere--sorry Peter, sorry PB&F...), so I don't think it has
to do with the superstructure as much as the flat bottom. In any case, any
ideas for damping the swings a bit? It really isn't possible to exaggerate how
much the "puppy on a leash" metaphor applies. I'm used to it but I'm worried
that when the mooring field fills in, my neighbors may be a bit alarmed and it
could in fact be a problem/danger if the swing spaces are too tight under the
assumption that everybody generally swings roughly the same direction/time.
Seth
On 4/30/07, Frank San Miguel <sanmi@...> wrote:
about twice that to build that Spur II. I gave that to a friend, and
I hear that it is still in use.
Cartoon 5.
Cartoon 5 has needed a few small holes patched, but still works great
and is simply an excellent rowboat, getting much use just this
weekend.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/
another 40 for the steering and motor controls.
error, and I strongly recommend making a dozen lapstrake models, which
I found to be very enlightening myself.
> > Bruce,I recall it took 60 hours to build my Cartoon 5. I think it took
>
> * Do you remember how many hours it took you to build your Spur?
about twice that to build that Spur II. I gave that to a friend, and
I hear that it is still in use.
> * What kind of plywood did you use?Plain cheap 1/8" luaun plywood from Home Depot in Spur II, and 1/4" in
Cartoon 5.
> * Do you still have her and if so, how has she held up?I hear that Spur II has needed some maintenance and still is going, my
Cartoon 5 has needed a few small holes patched, but still works great
and is simply an excellent rowboat, getting much use just this
weekend.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/
> * Do you think Shivaree (or the 18' foot version) would take aboutI would guess I could build a 18' foot Shivaree in 120 hours, plus
> twice as long?
another 40 for the steering and motor controls.
> * What book should I get to learn about plywood lapstrake construction?Maybe someone else can answer. Personally, I learned by trial and
error, and I strongly recommend making a dozen lapstrake models, which
I found to be very enlightening myself.
Bruce,
* Do you remember how many hours it took you to build your Spur?
* What kind of plywood did you use?
* Do you still have her and if so, how has she held up?
* Do you think Shivaree (or the 18' foot version) would take about
twice as long?
* What book should I get to learn about plywood lapstrake construction?
Frank
* Do you remember how many hours it took you to build your Spur?
* What kind of plywood did you use?
* Do you still have her and if so, how has she held up?
* Do you think Shivaree (or the 18' foot version) would take about
twice as long?
* What book should I get to learn about plywood lapstrake construction?
Frank
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
>http://rides.webshots.com/album/347044472BwVPBe
>
> ...shows photos of a paper model of Shivaree which I made a couple
years ago.
>
> I am a big fan of plywood lapstrake, and think a Shivaree could be a
> quick and easy build, the lines look very sweet!
>
http://rides.webshots.com/album/347044472BwVPBe
...shows photos of a paper model of Shivaree which I made a couple years ago.
I am a big fan of plywood lapstrake, and think a Shivaree could be a
quick and easy build, the lines look very sweet!
...shows photos of a paper model of Shivaree which I made a couple years ago.
I am a big fan of plywood lapstrake, and think a Shivaree could be a
quick and easy build, the lines look very sweet!
Matthew,
* Sail
A steadying sail is an interesting idea. It turns out that the house
isn't like a mizzen at all. At anchor, the boat roots around like a
puppy dog on a leash!
* Clam Skiff
Clam Skiff is an awesome boat and I have no complaints about her. In
fact I am still a bit timid about weather and waves and have never
tried her out in rough conditions. I'm a lifelong sailor and I'm
still learning about motorboats. An experienced friend whom I trust
told me a story about swamping in the shallow lakes of Louisiana - he
advised me never to venture out when the chop is more than 3'.
* Clam Skiff vs Shivaree
I view Shivaree as an "offshore boat" and Clam Skiff as a "flats
boat". I doubt that I really need to build an offshore boat, given
the waters I intend to frequent.
Frank
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "The Peillet-Long Family"
<owlnmole@...> wrote:
* Sail
A steadying sail is an interesting idea. It turns out that the house
isn't like a mizzen at all. At anchor, the boat roots around like a
puppy dog on a leash!
* Clam Skiff
Clam Skiff is an awesome boat and I have no complaints about her. In
fact I am still a bit timid about weather and waves and have never
tried her out in rough conditions. I'm a lifelong sailor and I'm
still learning about motorboats. An experienced friend whom I trust
told me a story about swamping in the shallow lakes of Louisiana - he
advised me never to venture out when the chop is more than 3'.
* Clam Skiff vs Shivaree
I view Shivaree as an "offshore boat" and Clam Skiff as a "flats
boat". I doubt that I really need to build an offshore boat, given
the waters I intend to frequent.
Frank
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "The Peillet-Long Family"
<owlnmole@...> wrote:
>
> Sorry, I can't speak to Shivaree, but that Cabin Clam Skiff looks like
> great fun for nearly year-round boating.
>
> Why not put small rig on it to give you some more confidence, a
> steadying effect and a little extra push for the conditions you
> describe? A low boomless spritsail or standing lug might work, copied
> from any number of sailing dinghies, with the mast stepped in the
> forward cockpit. Even a dipping lug if you don't want to tack. You
> could likely rig something temporary (and removable) and then make a
> nice installation if it works.
>
> I was going to suggest Bolger's favorite sprit-boomed cat yawl rig, but
> with the windage of that house you might not need the mizzen,
> especially if you take advantage of the boomless rig to overlap the
> cabin some, maybe with two sheets, one on each side, through a fairlead
> inthe cabin side.
>
> But then, I only know what little I've read, and it's just an idea. ;-)
>
> Phil and Suzanne might be able to make a suggestion, if you simple ask
> what stock rig you might be able to put the boat, and how, for emergecy
> pawer and a steadying effect underway.
>
> Happy boating!
>
> Matthew, boatless in Tunisia
>
Sorry, I can't speak to Shivaree, but that Cabin Clam Skiff looks like
great fun for nearly year-round boating.
Why not put small rig on it to give you some more confidence, a
steadying effect and a little extra push for the conditions you
describe? A low boomless spritsail or standing lug might work, copied
from any number of sailing dinghies, with the mast stepped in the
forward cockpit. Even a dipping lug if you don't want to tack. You
could likely rig something temporary (and removable) and then make a
nice installation if it works.
I was going to suggest Bolger's favorite sprit-boomed cat yawl rig, but
with the windage of that house you might not need the mizzen,
especially if you take advantage of the boomless rig to overlap the
cabin some, maybe with two sheets, one on each side, through a fairlead
inthe cabin side.
But then, I only know what little I've read, and it's just an idea. ;-)
Phil and Suzanne might be able to make a suggestion, if you simple ask
what stock rig you might be able to put the boat, and how, for emergecy
pawer and a steadying effect underway.
Happy boating!
Matthew, boatless in Tunisia
great fun for nearly year-round boating.
Why not put small rig on it to give you some more confidence, a
steadying effect and a little extra push for the conditions you
describe? A low boomless spritsail or standing lug might work, copied
from any number of sailing dinghies, with the mast stepped in the
forward cockpit. Even a dipping lug if you don't want to tack. You
could likely rig something temporary (and removable) and then make a
nice installation if it works.
I was going to suggest Bolger's favorite sprit-boomed cat yawl rig, but
with the windage of that house you might not need the mizzen,
especially if you take advantage of the boomless rig to overlap the
cabin some, maybe with two sheets, one on each side, through a fairlead
inthe cabin side.
But then, I only know what little I've read, and it's just an idea. ;-)
Phil and Suzanne might be able to make a suggestion, if you simple ask
what stock rig you might be able to put the boat, and how, for emergecy
pawer and a steadying effect underway.
Happy boating!
Matthew, boatless in Tunisia
Hello,
I've been a sailor all of my life but I just got a motorboat for the
first time a few years ago. - a cabin clam skiff
(http://www.fsanmiguel.com/boat). I love the boat but I haven't
gotten used to the limitations of a motor boat. Maybe its just me but
I think it is unsafe take the boat into seas/wind conditions that I
used to welcome in similar sized sail boats. The main concern is
swamping if the boat looses power in short steep waves of the northern
Chesapeake. These are just the times I want to be out sailing - a
crystal-clear bright fall day, steady 20kt winds, sparkling whitecaps,
double reefed main and storm jib!!
I've been interested in Shivaree for some time now and would like to
know if there are any Shivaree owners or builders out there. I'm
thinking of doing her strip-built - mostly just dreaming!
Frank San Miguel
Landenberg, PA
I've been a sailor all of my life but I just got a motorboat for the
first time a few years ago. - a cabin clam skiff
(http://www.fsanmiguel.com/boat). I love the boat but I haven't
gotten used to the limitations of a motor boat. Maybe its just me but
I think it is unsafe take the boat into seas/wind conditions that I
used to welcome in similar sized sail boats. The main concern is
swamping if the boat looses power in short steep waves of the northern
Chesapeake. These are just the times I want to be out sailing - a
crystal-clear bright fall day, steady 20kt winds, sparkling whitecaps,
double reefed main and storm jib!!
I've been interested in Shivaree for some time now and would like to
know if there are any Shivaree owners or builders out there. I'm
thinking of doing her strip-built - mostly just dreaming!
Frank San Miguel
Landenberg, PA