Swap?
I have a set of Chesapeake 17 kayak plans that I'm not going to use. I'd
like to trade for say Sneakeasy plans or June Bug plans. Anyone interested,
please contact me offlist.
Cheers -- COD
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
like to trade for say Sneakeasy plans or June Bug plans. Anyone interested,
please contact me offlist.
Cheers -- COD
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
I have a sprit rig that was custom made, by a now defunct awning maker in
Philadelphia, for a Sea Bright skiff. The luff is secured to mast with rope
grommet hoops. The foot is laced to a boom with an outhaul and a downhaul.
The snotter for the sprit has an eye splice in one end that slips into a
fork in the end of the sprit. It then leads through a fairlead on the mast
and belays on a cleat. The other end of the sprit inserts through a metal
grommet at the peak. The grommet is a bronze thimble with the bolt-rope
doubled around it.
This boat is 16 feet long. The main is 78 sq. feet. There is also a 21 sq.
foot jib. I was able to set them in under 1 minute.
V/R
Chris
Philadelphia, for a Sea Bright skiff. The luff is secured to mast with rope
grommet hoops. The foot is laced to a boom with an outhaul and a downhaul.
The snotter for the sprit has an eye splice in one end that slips into a
fork in the end of the sprit. It then leads through a fairlead on the mast
and belays on a cleat. The other end of the sprit inserts through a metal
grommet at the peak. The grommet is a bronze thimble with the bolt-rope
doubled around it.
This boat is 16 feet long. The main is 78 sq. feet. There is also a 21 sq.
foot jib. I was able to set them in under 1 minute.
V/R
Chris
Nels,
Thanks for the duckworks article link, I hadn't seen that, but I think
it answers most of my questions. I already had the Michalak article
and I will have to dig out Paysons book and look that up too.
Steven
Thanks for the duckworks article link, I hadn't seen that, but I think
it answers most of my questions. I already had the Michalak article
and I will have to dig out Paysons book and look that up too.
Steven
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, pgochnour@ wrote:
> >
> > Hi Steven....best book I've seen on that subject is "The Working
> Guide to
> > Traditional Small Boat Sails," by Dave Nichols. You can order it
> from the
> > Duickwoks folks ( duckworksmagazine.com) or directly from Dave (
> > arrowheadboats.com). It has very explicit diagrams and great photos.
> Does this mean you're
> > about to put that Teal on the water?
> > Tyson in Galveston
>
> Jim Michalak also has an article in his newsletter on how to rig a
> sail for Teal:
>
>http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/1999/0615/index.htm
>
> Dave has a short article at DW mag on snotters:
>
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/columns/nichols/index2.htm
>
> And Dynamite did a write up on rigging a leg'o mutton in his previous
> book. "Build the New Instant Boats."
>
> Nels
>
Hi Tyson,
Not even close. Haven't even bought the wood yet. I have a big
interiew in Calif the end of the week (flying out Thursday,
interviewing Friday and flying back Saturday). Spent the last few
weeks reviewing electronics and other stuff I haven't had to deal with
in about 10 years. If I get the job I then fly back to Calif for 4
weeks training and then after that I essentially can work out of my
home office here in Massachusetts. Then I can start the Teal (lets
say, sometime towards the end of July).
Of course, if I don't get it then I can start the Teal on Sunday.
I'm just planning ahead.
Steven
Not even close. Haven't even bought the wood yet. I have a big
interiew in Calif the end of the week (flying out Thursday,
interviewing Friday and flying back Saturday). Spent the last few
weeks reviewing electronics and other stuff I haven't had to deal with
in about 10 years. If I get the job I then fly back to Calif for 4
weeks training and then after that I essentially can work out of my
home office here in Massachusetts. Then I can start the Teal (lets
say, sometime towards the end of July).
Of course, if I don't get it then I can start the Teal on Sunday.
I'm just planning ahead.
Steven
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, pgochnour@... wrote:
>
> Hi Steven....best book I've seen on that subject is "The Working
Guide to
> Traditional Small Boat Sails," by Dave Nichols. You can order it
from the
> Duickwoks folks ( duckworksmagazine.com) or directly from Dave (
> arrowheadboats.com). It has very explicit diagrams and great photos.
Does this mean you're
> about to put that Teal on the water?
> Tyson in Galveston
>
>
> **************************************
> See what's free
> athttp://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Hi steve
the sunny is a lateen rig, similar to a sprit in simplicity.
stopper knots are great for a sprit rig, I've seen sprits with holes
and notches and loops, really depends on the design. at the top of the
sprit pole I use a beefy nail driven into a generous hole in the end
grain of the spar, just loop the sail over it, raise the sprit and off
you go!
for photos of a sprit I threw together from 4x4, 2x2 and an old blown
out jib go to the Schooner Dory portion of my website at
http://dansdories.googlepages.com
Daniel N.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Steven DAntonio" <sdantonio93@...>
wrote:
the sunny is a lateen rig, similar to a sprit in simplicity.
stopper knots are great for a sprit rig, I've seen sprits with holes
and notches and loops, really depends on the design. at the top of the
sprit pole I use a beefy nail driven into a generous hole in the end
grain of the spar, just loop the sail over it, raise the sprit and off
you go!
for photos of a sprit I threw together from 4x4, 2x2 and an old blown
out jib go to the Schooner Dory portion of my website at
http://dansdories.googlepages.com
Daniel N.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Steven DAntonio" <sdantonio93@...>
wrote:
>details.
> Does anyone have any good closeup pictures of a sprit rig, especially
> the ends of the sprit boom (ropes and knots for the snotter and the
> other end), and the binding for the sprit to the mast. Dynamite's
> descriptions are great if you already know what your doing. But
> having not seen a sprit rigged boat (like a sunfish) since boyscout
> camp (somewhere back if the late 1960's) I sort of forget the
> Also just bought a copy of the "sailmakers apprentice", that might
> tell me a some of what I need to know.
>
> Thanks,
> Steven
> You could either start a folder or send them directoy to me
> sdantonio93@...
>
Thanks, Bruce. Jim and Bob had a motor and circled around! This made
for an interseting angle on the rig. The thing that jumps out to me is
the importance of luff tension on the Solent lug. Lynne at Sailmaker's
Art made the sail with a good luff rope, and I ended up with a four-
part downhaul. It needs to be tight!
When we played with the Sliding Gunter yesterday, one feature was
closing up the gap to the mast along the yard, on a beat. This appears
to be an aerodynamic improvement.
Bob
for an interseting angle on the rig. The thing that jumps out to me is
the importance of luff tension on the Solent lug. Lynne at Sailmaker's
Art made the sail with a good luff rope, and I ended up with a four-
part downhaul. It needs to be tight!
When we played with the Sliding Gunter yesterday, one feature was
closing up the gap to the mast along the yard, on a beat. This appears
to be an aerodynamic improvement.
Bob
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks, I especially like this photo:
>
>http://www.proaxis.com/~janlark/bw2_fos2.jpg
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, pgochnour@... wrote:
sail for Teal:
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/1999/0615/index.htm
Dave has a short article at DW mag on snotters:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/columns/nichols/index2.htm
And Dynamite did a write up on rigging a leg'o mutton in his previous
book. "Build the New Instant Boats."
Nels
>Guide to
> Hi Steven....best book I've seen on that subject is "The Working
> Traditional Small Boat Sails," by Dave Nichols. You can order itfrom the
> Duickwoks folks ( duckworksmagazine.com) or directly from Dave (Does this mean you're
> arrowheadboats.com). It has very explicit diagrams and great photos.
> about to put that Teal on the water?Jim Michalak also has an article in his newsletter on how to rig a
> Tyson in Galveston
sail for Teal:
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/1999/0615/index.htm
Dave has a short article at DW mag on snotters:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/columns/nichols/index2.htm
And Dynamite did a write up on rigging a leg'o mutton in his previous
book. "Build the New Instant Boats."
Nels
Hi Steven....best book I've seen on that subject is "The Working Guide to
Traditional Small Boat Sails," by Dave Nichols. You can order it from the
Duickwoks folks ( duckworksmagazine.com) or directly from Dave (
arrowheadboats.com). It has very explicit diagrams and great photos. Does this mean you're
about to put that Teal on the water?
Tyson in Galveston
**************************************
See what's free
athttp://www.aol.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Traditional Small Boat Sails," by Dave Nichols. You can order it from the
Duickwoks folks ( duckworksmagazine.com) or directly from Dave (
arrowheadboats.com). It has very explicit diagrams and great photos. Does this mean you're
about to put that Teal on the water?
Tyson in Galveston
**************************************
See what's free
athttp://www.aol.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Does anyone have any good closeup pictures of a sprit rig, especially
the ends of the sprit boom (ropes and knots for the snotter and the
other end), and the binding for the sprit to the mast. Dynamite's
descriptions are great if you already know what your doing. But
having not seen a sprit rigged boat (like a sunfish) since boyscout
camp (somewhere back if the late 1960's) I sort of forget the details.
Also just bought a copy of the "sailmakers apprentice", that might
tell me a some of what I need to know.
Thanks,
Steven
You could either start a folder or send them directoy to me
sdantonio93@...
the ends of the sprit boom (ropes and knots for the snotter and the
other end), and the binding for the sprit to the mast. Dynamite's
descriptions are great if you already know what your doing. But
having not seen a sprit rigged boat (like a sunfish) since boyscout
camp (somewhere back if the late 1960's) I sort of forget the details.
Also just bought a copy of the "sailmakers apprentice", that might
tell me a some of what I need to know.
Thanks,
Steven
You could either start a folder or send them directoy to me
sdantonio93@...
Hi David - I believe you are right, there is no specific guidance on
the mast sheave that I know of. I observed that the Ronstan RF431
sheave just fits the top of the mast, and cut a hole for it. No advise
from Bolger. There is a lot of luff tension needed with the Solent
Lug, and a smooth running block helps.
John Kohnen and I were out today on Fern Ridge sailing, again under
main sail only. John made the point that getting the main and yard up
quickly is important when the wind is blowing. There is a fair bit of
weight involved, and a free-running sheave helps greatly.
Today we were testing an oversized jaw that I made to convert the
Solent lug to a Sliding Gunter. This jaw is large enough to not be able
to wedge if rotated sideways on the mast, and could also just pass over
the snotter block. Today's test was quite fine, but the winds were
never more than 10 kts. More tests are needed with higher winds. The
sailing was fun!
Your mast should work great. The luff of the main is going to be nice
and straight from tension, anyway.
Good luck with the project,
Bob
the mast sheave that I know of. I observed that the Ronstan RF431
sheave just fits the top of the mast, and cut a hole for it. No advise
from Bolger. There is a lot of luff tension needed with the Solent
Lug, and a smooth running block helps.
John Kohnen and I were out today on Fern Ridge sailing, again under
main sail only. John made the point that getting the main and yard up
quickly is important when the wind is blowing. There is a fair bit of
weight involved, and a free-running sheave helps greatly.
Today we were testing an oversized jaw that I made to convert the
Solent lug to a Sliding Gunter. This jaw is large enough to not be able
to wedge if rotated sideways on the mast, and could also just pass over
the snotter block. Today's test was quite fine, but the winds were
never more than 10 kts. More tests are needed with higher winds. The
sailing was fun!
Your mast should work great. The luff of the main is going to be nice
and straight from tension, anyway.
Good luck with the project,
Bob
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dnjost" <davidjost@...> wrote:
>
> Bob-
>
> The plans are not specific about the sheave on the mast. Did you get
> guidance from Bolger here, or did you go about on your own to rig a
> sheave through the mast? It looks to me as if the halyard just
passes
> through a hole in the mast 2" below the tip.
>
> I finished glueing up my mast today. I have a very slight (1/2) inch
> bend aft, that I hope will straighten out when the jib is bent on and
> tightened.
>
> Congratulations on a superb job. You went way beyond what I intend.
>
> David Jost
>
Bob-
The plans are not specific about the sheave on the mast. Did you get
guidance from Bolger here, or did you go about on your own to rig a
sheave through the mast? It looks to me as if the halyard just passes
through a hole in the mast 2" below the tip.
I finished glueing up my mast today. I have a very slight (1/2) inch
bend aft, that I hope will straighten out when the jib is bent on and
tightened.
Congratulations on a superb job. You went way beyond what I intend.
David Jost
The plans are not specific about the sheave on the mast. Did you get
guidance from Bolger here, or did you go about on your own to rig a
sheave through the mast? It looks to me as if the halyard just passes
through a hole in the mast 2" below the tip.
I finished glueing up my mast today. I have a very slight (1/2) inch
bend aft, that I hope will straighten out when the jib is bent on and
tightened.
Congratulations on a superb job. You went way beyond what I intend.
David Jost
Bob-
The plans are not specific about the sheave on the mast. Did you get
guidance from Bolger here, or did you go about on your own to rig a
sheave through the mast? It looks to me as if the halyard just passes
through a hole in the mast 2" below the tip.
I finished glueing up my mast today. I have a very slight (1/2) inch
bend aft, that I hope will straighten out when the jib is bent on and
tightened.
Congratulations on a superb job. You went way beyond what I intend.
David Jost
The plans are not specific about the sheave on the mast. Did you get
guidance from Bolger here, or did you go about on your own to rig a
sheave through the mast? It looks to me as if the halyard just passes
through a hole in the mast 2" below the tip.
I finished glueing up my mast today. I have a very slight (1/2) inch
bend aft, that I hope will straighten out when the jib is bent on and
tightened.
Congratulations on a superb job. You went way beyond what I intend.
David Jost
I never realized that the Birdwatcher looked so good.
HJ
Andrew Wallace wrote:
HJ
Andrew Wallace wrote:
> Bob,
> Congratulations! and thanks for those excellent photos. What a beauty Wave Watcher is in the shot of her on the lake. Very inspirational.
> Andrew.
> New Plymouth, NZ.
>
>
>
>
Bob,
Congratulations! and thanks for those excellent photos. What a beauty Wave Watcher is in the shot of her on the lake. Very inspirational.
Andrew.
New Plymouth, NZ.
Bob Larkin <boblark@...> wrote:
I'm quite tardy in updating my BW2 pictures, but they are up now at
http://www.proaxis.com/~boblark/bw2_main.htm
The first page has dates for the other pages, indicating if they are
new or updated.
Somewhere along the line, a boat is finished, and everything else is an
improvement. I declare May 2007 to be that transition!!
I will continue to add some pictures to the web site, but they will be
mostly on-the-water pictures, with a few about the still-evolving
sailing rig.
Thanks to all for the help with the project. Building has been great,
and being on the water is even better!
Bob Larkin
Corvallis, Oregon
Send instant messages to your online friendshttp://au.messenger.yahoo.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Congratulations! and thanks for those excellent photos. What a beauty Wave Watcher is in the shot of her on the lake. Very inspirational.
Andrew.
New Plymouth, NZ.
Bob Larkin <boblark@...> wrote:
I'm quite tardy in updating my BW2 pictures, but they are up now at
http://www.proaxis.com/~boblark/bw2_main.htm
The first page has dates for the other pages, indicating if they are
new or updated.
Somewhere along the line, a boat is finished, and everything else is an
improvement. I declare May 2007 to be that transition!!
I will continue to add some pictures to the web site, but they will be
mostly on-the-water pictures, with a few about the still-evolving
sailing rig.
Thanks to all for the help with the project. Building has been great,
and being on the water is even better!
Bob Larkin
Corvallis, Oregon
Send instant messages to your online friendshttp://au.messenger.yahoo.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Larkin" <boblark@...> wrote:
Congratulations on a great job and a great website. And thanks to John
and all the others for the photos and input.
Looking forward to some more photos and sharing about how you like the
rig. Nice photos under power as well.
Thanks for sharing,
Nels
>Hi Bob,
> I'm quite tardy in updating my BW2 pictures, but they are up now at
>http://www.proaxis.com/~boblark/bw2_main.htm
> The first page has dates for the other pages, indicating if they are
> new or updated.
>
Congratulations on a great job and a great website. And thanks to John
and all the others for the photos and input.
Looking forward to some more photos and sharing about how you like the
rig. Nice photos under power as well.
Thanks for sharing,
Nels
I'm quite tardy in updating my BW2 pictures, but they are up now at
http://www.proaxis.com/~boblark/bw2_main.htm
The first page has dates for the other pages, indicating if they are
new or updated.
Somewhere along the line, a boat is finished, and everything else is an
improvement. I declare May 2007 to be that transition!!
I will continue to add some pictures to the web site, but they will be
mostly on-the-water pictures, with a few about the still-evolving
sailing rig.
Thanks to all for the help with the project. Building has been great,
and being on the water is even better!
Bob Larkin
Corvallis, Oregon
http://www.proaxis.com/~boblark/bw2_main.htm
The first page has dates for the other pages, indicating if they are
new or updated.
Somewhere along the line, a boat is finished, and everything else is an
improvement. I declare May 2007 to be that transition!!
I will continue to add some pictures to the web site, but they will be
mostly on-the-water pictures, with a few about the still-evolving
sailing rig.
Thanks to all for the help with the project. Building has been great,
and being on the water is even better!
Bob Larkin
Corvallis, Oregon