Re: Ultraply
Hello all,
It doesn't snap cut like in the vid. It's stronger than regular ply.
I build/design free standing spiral stairs laminating the stringers
on a wall build onsite. These stairs are between 4-5' wide and not
the hanging from the pole type. True southern mansion stairs
therefore, in need of tensil strength. I would use ultraply in them
without a second thought minus the extra cost.
The only ply I have ever score cut is luan and 1/8' oak veneer. You
won't score cut ultraply. At least the product I bought.
Jim
It doesn't snap cut like in the vid. It's stronger than regular ply.
I build/design free standing spiral stairs laminating the stringers
on a wall build onsite. These stairs are between 4-5' wide and not
the hanging from the pole type. True southern mansion stairs
therefore, in need of tensil strength. I would use ultraply in them
without a second thought minus the extra cost.
The only ply I have ever score cut is luan and 1/8' oak veneer. You
won't score cut ultraply. At least the product I bought.
Jim
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Ron Magen" <quahaug@...> wrote:
>
> Dave & Ken,
> A few years ago I went to a National Woodworking Show. There were
> several of the well-known wood suppliers & manufacturers {ply,
> dimensional lumber, Lam-Beams, etc} displaying 'alternate sources' &
> materials. This is where I learned about Lyptus { a 'farmed'
wood }, and
> an underlayment made from straw {or a specific type of grass . .
not
> sure, I've got samples somewhere}. I have a feeling that
this 'Ultraply'
> might be a similar product.
>
> The clue to me is the 'score-and-snap' routine. This tells me it is
> 'monolithic', like a sheet of glass. I've worked in the textile
industry
> . . . in a segment known as 'Non-Wovens'. This stuff is probably
> manufactured by similar methods.
>
> However the bottom line is this . . . many of the boats we build are
> really *NOT* 'wooden boats', but 'composite' boats. The 'wood' is
simply
> a form around which epoxy & fiberglass are 'wrapped. Check the
Gudgeon
> Brothers manuals. You will see methods of building reinforcements
using
> foam & cut card-board tubes as forms . . . no inherent strength
there.
>
> With 'monocoque' or 'stressed skin' construction there have even
been
> 'cardboard boat' races.
>
> I'd say if it's cheap enough, give it a try. Personally, I'd give
it a
> few coats of epoxy, a sheathing of at least 6oz. 'glass, and a hell
of a
> lot more that, 'AN extra coat of paint'.
>
> Regards & Good Luck,
> Ron Magen
> Backyard Boatshop
> {PS - for 'brightwork finish' I like the look of the 'red' Lauan}
>
>
> > 2h. Re: Ultraply
> > Posted by: "David" d.cassidy@... dcassidyus
> > Date: Tue May 15, 2007 6:38 am ((PDT))
> >
> > I used to use what they called a uni-directional lay up, but now
their
> literature says "cross-grain construction," whatever that means.
> >
> > I've heard from a couple of people who have built with it, and
they
> report no problems after several years. My choice is between this
and
> regular luan . . .
> cut out . .panels . . not found a single void . . . lighter weight
than
> regular 1/4-inch ply, so maybe I'll throw on an extra layer of
paint ;)
> I also plan on fiberglasing the bottom, . . .and maybe
fiberglasing
> the decks as well.
> >
> > Since this is a protected waters boat, I think I'll give this
stuff a
> try and see what happens.
> >
> >
> > David C
>
> > ---- Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...> wrote:
> SNIP
> > > I think this underlayment you're interested in is unidirectional
> plywood too,
> > > isn't it?
> > >
> > > Sincerely,
> > > Ken Grome
> > > Bagacay Boatworks
> > > www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
Hello all,
That vid is a crock. Unltraply is harder to score than luan by far. I
didnt score cut anything just scored to stop it from giving a ragged
edge when cutting with a saw. Its tougher on saw blades and router bits
than regular 1/4' ply. Im not speculating Im using it on my light
scooner.
Before I bought it I took a piece and bent it around a pole at the
lumber yard. I also grabbed the corner of it to see how much strength
it had. It responded better than regular ply. The regular ply started
to make cracking sounds quicker than the ultraply.
When I first saw the vid I was turned off but after seeing the real
thing and testing it I bought it.
Jim
That vid is a crock. Unltraply is harder to score than luan by far. I
didnt score cut anything just scored to stop it from giving a ragged
edge when cutting with a saw. Its tougher on saw blades and router bits
than regular 1/4' ply. Im not speculating Im using it on my light
scooner.
Before I bought it I took a piece and bent it around a pole at the
lumber yard. I also grabbed the corner of it to see how much strength
it had. It responded better than regular ply. The regular ply started
to make cracking sounds quicker than the ultraply.
When I first saw the vid I was turned off but after seeing the real
thing and testing it I bought it.
Jim
David C,
After several decades in the architectural millwork business, I've
used a lot of different types of panel product. I hadn't seen this
one, because we don't normally do much with flooring. I got curious
enough to look at Moreland's website.
Waterproof phenolic resin glue, no core voids, unpatched face veneers.
It all sounds good for boatbuilding - with the possible exception of
the unidirectional cores. The alternatng plies of typical plywood add
to the strength of the sheet. This product, designed for flooring
underlayment, won't be subjected to the same sorts of dynamic loads
that a boat hull will be. That would concern me.
I can understand the claim that ultraply can be scored and snapped -
just like sheetrock. It worries me. All the crossgrain strength is in
the faces. Score one face (across the grain?), snap the unidirectional
core (with its grain), fold, and slice through the other face veneer.
Or, maybe it'd be necessary to score both face veneers first. I
imagine it only works when snapping in the same direction that the
core veneer grain runs. Not much of a selling point for me. I wouldn't
want to give of the strength of alternating plys for the dubious
convenience of sometimes not having to take a saw to it.
Seems like a product well engineered for it's stated purpose. Not
perfect for boatbuildng. It'd likely be fine for coring composite
construction with glass/resin on both faces. It'd probably be fine
also for a boat that will be used in a very genteel fashion. I have
two teenage boys, so that's not any boat I own. If I were to use it
because of its other desirable traits, I'd certainly consider beefing
it up, eg. use 3/8" where 1/4" is called for, or tighten up the
spacing of support structure behind it, etc.
Max strikes me as a level-headed guy. If he's had good results, maybe
I'm just being a fussbudget <G>
Cheers,
David Graybeal
Portland, OR
"Action speaks louder than words, but not as often" -- Mark Twain
***************
After several decades in the architectural millwork business, I've
used a lot of different types of panel product. I hadn't seen this
one, because we don't normally do much with flooring. I got curious
enough to look at Moreland's website.
Waterproof phenolic resin glue, no core voids, unpatched face veneers.
It all sounds good for boatbuilding - with the possible exception of
the unidirectional cores. The alternatng plies of typical plywood add
to the strength of the sheet. This product, designed for flooring
underlayment, won't be subjected to the same sorts of dynamic loads
that a boat hull will be. That would concern me.
I can understand the claim that ultraply can be scored and snapped -
just like sheetrock. It worries me. All the crossgrain strength is in
the faces. Score one face (across the grain?), snap the unidirectional
core (with its grain), fold, and slice through the other face veneer.
Or, maybe it'd be necessary to score both face veneers first. I
imagine it only works when snapping in the same direction that the
core veneer grain runs. Not much of a selling point for me. I wouldn't
want to give of the strength of alternating plys for the dubious
convenience of sometimes not having to take a saw to it.
Seems like a product well engineered for it's stated purpose. Not
perfect for boatbuildng. It'd likely be fine for coring composite
construction with glass/resin on both faces. It'd probably be fine
also for a boat that will be used in a very genteel fashion. I have
two teenage boys, so that's not any boat I own. If I were to use it
because of its other desirable traits, I'd certainly consider beefing
it up, eg. use 3/8" where 1/4" is called for, or tighten up the
spacing of support structure behind it, etc.
Max strikes me as a level-headed guy. If he's had good results, maybe
I'm just being a fussbudget <G>
Cheers,
David Graybeal
Portland, OR
"Action speaks louder than words, but not as often" -- Mark Twain
***************
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, David <d.cassidy@...> wrote:
>
> The manufacturer claims solid hardwood for all 4 plys.
>
> I was mistaken about the "cross-grain construction" comment earlier.
That was for a different product (called "Sureply"). The literature
for Ultraply says the core is "unidirectional," which I take to mean
the 2 center cores are oriented in the same direction.
>
> In playing around with a couple of sheets last night, while a little
lighter weight than standard luan, it didn't seem to be all that
different (except for the nice, sanded faces and the complete lack of
voids on the edges -- oh, yea, and the stamped product logo on the
back side). It can bend without breaking well beyond any curve that
might ever be required.
>
> Max (over on the Michalak Yahoo Group) has built 2 boats with the
stuff. They're 4 years old, stored outside, and he says they're
holding up fine. He glassed the outside, but not the interior (which
is what I plan on doing).
>
> I'm going to give it a try on a Michalak AF3 and see how it goes.
>
> I'll be posting pictures, etc on the Michalak group, if anyone is
interested.
>
> DC
The manufacturer claims solid hardwood for all 4 plys.
I was mistaken about the "cross-grain construction" comment earlier. That was for a different product (called "Sureply"). The literature for Ultraply says the core is "unidirectional," which I take to mean the 2 center cores are oriented in the same direction.
In playing around with a couple of sheets last night, while a little lighter weight than standard luan, it didn't seem to be all that different (except for the nice, sanded faces and the complete lack of voids on the edges -- oh, yea, and the stamped product logo on the back side). It can bend without breaking well beyond any curve that might ever be required.
Max (over on the Michalak Yahoo Group) has built 2 boats with the stuff. They're 4 years old, stored outside, and he says they're holding up fine. He glassed the outside, but not the interior (which is what I plan on doing).
I'm going to give it a try on a Michalak AF3 and see how it goes.
I'll be posting pictures, etc on the Michalak group, if anyone is interested.
DC
---- Ron Magen <quahaug@...> wrote:
I was mistaken about the "cross-grain construction" comment earlier. That was for a different product (called "Sureply"). The literature for Ultraply says the core is "unidirectional," which I take to mean the 2 center cores are oriented in the same direction.
In playing around with a couple of sheets last night, while a little lighter weight than standard luan, it didn't seem to be all that different (except for the nice, sanded faces and the complete lack of voids on the edges -- oh, yea, and the stamped product logo on the back side). It can bend without breaking well beyond any curve that might ever be required.
Max (over on the Michalak Yahoo Group) has built 2 boats with the stuff. They're 4 years old, stored outside, and he says they're holding up fine. He glassed the outside, but not the interior (which is what I plan on doing).
I'm going to give it a try on a Michalak AF3 and see how it goes.
I'll be posting pictures, etc on the Michalak group, if anyone is interested.
DC
---- Ron Magen <quahaug@...> wrote:
> Dave & Ken,
> A few years ago I went to a National Woodworking Show. There were
> several of the well-known wood suppliers & manufacturers {ply,
> dimensional lumber, Lam-Beams, etc} displaying 'alternate sources' &
> materials. This is where I learned about Lyptus { a 'farmed' wood }, and
> an underlayment made from straw {or a specific type of grass . . not
> sure, I've got samples somewhere}. I have a feeling that this 'Ultraply'
> might be a similar product.
>
> The clue to me is the 'score-and-snap' routine. This tells me it is
> 'monolithic', like a sheet of glass. I've worked in the textile industry
> . . . in a segment known as 'Non-Wovens'. This stuff is probably
> manufactured by similar methods.
>
> However the bottom line is this . . . many of the boats we build are
> really *NOT* 'wooden boats', but 'composite' boats. The 'wood' is simply
> a form around which epoxy & fiberglass are 'wrapped. Check the Gudgeon
> Brothers manuals. You will see methods of building reinforcements using
> foam & cut card-board tubes as forms . . . no inherent strength there.
>
> With 'monocoque' or 'stressed skin' construction there have even been
> 'cardboard boat' races.
>
> I'd say if it's cheap enough, give it a try. Personally, I'd give it a
> few coats of epoxy, a sheathing of at least 6oz. 'glass, and a hell of a
> lot more that, 'AN extra coat of paint'.
>
> Regards & Good Luck,
> Ron Magen
> Backyard Boatshop
> {PS - for 'brightwork finish' I like the look of the 'red' Lauan}
>
>
> > 2h. Re: Ultraply
> > Posted by: "David"d.cassidy@...dcassidyus
> > Date: Tue May 15, 2007 6:38 am ((PDT))
> >
> > I used to use what they called a uni-directional lay up, but now their
> literature says "cross-grain construction," whatever that means.
> >
> > I've heard from a couple of people who have built with it, and they
> report no problems after several years. My choice is between this and
> regular luan . . .
> cut out . .panels . . not found a single void . . . lighter weight than
> regular 1/4-inch ply, so maybe I'll throw on an extra layer of paint ;)
> I also plan on fiberglasing the bottom, . . .and maybe fiberglasing
> the decks as well.
> >
> > Since this is a protected waters boat, I think I'll give this stuff a
> try and see what happens.
> >
> >
> > David C
>
> > ---- Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...> wrote:
> SNIP
> > > I think this underlayment you're interested in is unidirectional
> plywood too,
> > > isn't it?
> > >
> > > Sincerely,
> > > Ken Grome
> > > Bagacay Boatworks
> > > www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Dave & Ken,
A few years ago I went to a National Woodworking Show. There were
several of the well-known wood suppliers & manufacturers {ply,
dimensional lumber, Lam-Beams, etc} displaying 'alternate sources' &
materials. This is where I learned about Lyptus { a 'farmed' wood }, and
an underlayment made from straw {or a specific type of grass . . not
sure, I've got samples somewhere}. I have a feeling that this 'Ultraply'
might be a similar product.
The clue to me is the 'score-and-snap' routine. This tells me it is
'monolithic', like a sheet of glass. I've worked in the textile industry
. . . in a segment known as 'Non-Wovens'. This stuff is probably
manufactured by similar methods.
However the bottom line is this . . . many of the boats we build are
really *NOT* 'wooden boats', but 'composite' boats. The 'wood' is simply
a form around which epoxy & fiberglass are 'wrapped. Check the Gudgeon
Brothers manuals. You will see methods of building reinforcements using
foam & cut card-board tubes as forms . . . no inherent strength there.
With 'monocoque' or 'stressed skin' construction there have even been
'cardboard boat' races.
I'd say if it's cheap enough, give it a try. Personally, I'd give it a
few coats of epoxy, a sheathing of at least 6oz. 'glass, and a hell of a
lot more that, 'AN extra coat of paint'.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
{PS - for 'brightwork finish' I like the look of the 'red' Lauan}
regular luan . . .
cut out . .panels . . not found a single void . . . lighter weight than
regular 1/4-inch ply, so maybe I'll throw on an extra layer of paint ;)
I also plan on fiberglasing the bottom, . . .and maybe fiberglasing
the decks as well.
A few years ago I went to a National Woodworking Show. There were
several of the well-known wood suppliers & manufacturers {ply,
dimensional lumber, Lam-Beams, etc} displaying 'alternate sources' &
materials. This is where I learned about Lyptus { a 'farmed' wood }, and
an underlayment made from straw {or a specific type of grass . . not
sure, I've got samples somewhere}. I have a feeling that this 'Ultraply'
might be a similar product.
The clue to me is the 'score-and-snap' routine. This tells me it is
'monolithic', like a sheet of glass. I've worked in the textile industry
. . . in a segment known as 'Non-Wovens'. This stuff is probably
manufactured by similar methods.
However the bottom line is this . . . many of the boats we build are
really *NOT* 'wooden boats', but 'composite' boats. The 'wood' is simply
a form around which epoxy & fiberglass are 'wrapped. Check the Gudgeon
Brothers manuals. You will see methods of building reinforcements using
foam & cut card-board tubes as forms . . . no inherent strength there.
With 'monocoque' or 'stressed skin' construction there have even been
'cardboard boat' races.
I'd say if it's cheap enough, give it a try. Personally, I'd give it a
few coats of epoxy, a sheathing of at least 6oz. 'glass, and a hell of a
lot more that, 'AN extra coat of paint'.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
{PS - for 'brightwork finish' I like the look of the 'red' Lauan}
> 2h. Re: Ultraplyliterature says "cross-grain construction," whatever that means.
> Posted by: "David"d.cassidy@...dcassidyus
> Date: Tue May 15, 2007 6:38 am ((PDT))
>
> I used to use what they called a uni-directional lay up, but now their
>report no problems after several years. My choice is between this and
> I've heard from a couple of people who have built with it, and they
regular luan . . .
cut out . .panels . . not found a single void . . . lighter weight than
regular 1/4-inch ply, so maybe I'll throw on an extra layer of paint ;)
I also plan on fiberglasing the bottom, . . .and maybe fiberglasing
the decks as well.
>try and see what happens.
> Since this is a protected waters boat, I think I'll give this stuff a
>SNIP
>
> David C
> ---- Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...> wrote:
> > I think this underlayment you're interested in is unidirectionalplywood too,
> > isn't it?
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Ken Grome
> > Bagacay Boatworks
> > www.bagacayboatworks.com
> It was commissioned by......Rollin dalPiaz, a member of this group who may chime in here. I
agree that Yonder is one of those remarkable PB&F designs, where the
more you study it; the more amazing details and synergies you will
discover. I find the details of it well suited for backyard builders.
Rollin had to postponed his construction, and I too have Yonder next
on the list of Bolger boats which I intend to build.
I used to use what they called a uni-directional lay up, but now their literature says "cross-grain construction," whatever that means.
I've heard from a couple of people who have built with it, and they report no problems after several years. My choice is between this and regular luan (I'm not going to use marine ply on this project). I cut out the side panels of the AF3 last night, and have not found a single void (which is why I'm leaning towards it instead of the regular luan stuff). It's a little lighter weight than regular 1/4-inch ply, so maybe I'll throw on an extra layer of paint ;) I also plan on fiberglasing the bottom, adding a center and two side bottom runners and maybe fiberglasing the decks as well.
Since this is a protected waters boat, I think I'll give this stuff a try and see what happens.
As soon as I have enough progress to report, I'll start posting pictures.
Thanks to all for your thoughts.
David C
---- Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...> wrote:
I've heard from a couple of people who have built with it, and they report no problems after several years. My choice is between this and regular luan (I'm not going to use marine ply on this project). I cut out the side panels of the AF3 last night, and have not found a single void (which is why I'm leaning towards it instead of the regular luan stuff). It's a little lighter weight than regular 1/4-inch ply, so maybe I'll throw on an extra layer of paint ;) I also plan on fiberglasing the bottom, adding a center and two side bottom runners and maybe fiberglasing the decks as well.
Since this is a protected waters boat, I think I'll give this stuff a try and see what happens.
As soon as I have enough progress to report, I'll start posting pictures.
Thanks to all for your thoughts.
David C
---- Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...> wrote:
> > I saw that video, too -- but wouldn't any
> > 1/4-inch plywood snap if you bent
> > it over like that?
>
>
> No way!
>
> I use Meranti plywood and it needs to be cut with a saw. A utility knife will
> only scratch the surface and it won't break along that cut line either.
>
> I think this underlayment you're interested in is unidirectional plywood too,
> isn't it?
>
> Sincerely,
> Ken Grome
> Bagacay Boatworks
> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Hi all,
got a box keel with steel grounding shoe, strip planked round bilges,
and plywood topsides. Rig is a yawl with Chinese gaff main, battened
gaff mizzen, and balanced club jib. The bowsprit and boomkin are
retracting, and of course the masts are in tabernacles. Twin 4-cycle
outboards provide auxilliary propulsion, and it carries the 8' version
of FastBrick on the foredeck. It was commissioned by a guy who sailed
in company with Romp, but other than being the same 30' in length,
it's vastly different from Romp in design, construction, and
complexity.
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
> He must have made real upgrades. I don't remember a box keel on RompThe "update" to Romp was a completely new design called Yonder. It's
> and Romp is one of my favorites.
got a box keel with steel grounding shoe, strip planked round bilges,
and plywood topsides. Rig is a yawl with Chinese gaff main, battened
gaff mizzen, and balanced club jib. The bowsprit and boomkin are
retracting, and of course the masts are in tabernacles. Twin 4-cycle
outboards provide auxilliary propulsion, and it carries the 8' version
of FastBrick on the foredeck. It was commissioned by a guy who sailed
in company with Romp, but other than being the same 30' in length,
it's vastly different from Romp in design, construction, and
complexity.
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
He must have made real upgrades. I don't remember a box keel on Romp and
Romp is one of my favorites. Clyde
Kenneth Grome wrote:
Romp is one of my favorites. Clyde
Kenneth Grome wrote:
> Hi Howard,[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Thanks for thei useful info.
>
> I
>
>
>
>
Hi Howard,
Thanks for thei useful info.
If 8250 pounds is the weight published in the book it is probably the weight
of the original design. Bolger updated this design in 2003 from what I
understand, which made it wider and gave it a bigger rig and specified other
things that would add weight.
I read somewhere that the new specs include a 2-inch thick steel plate on the
bottom of the box keel. I don't know if this is correct, but if it is the
boat might be substantially heavier now in its new incarnation.
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
Thanks for thei useful info.
If 8250 pounds is the weight published in the book it is probably the weight
of the original design. Bolger updated this design in 2003 from what I
understand, which made it wider and gave it a bigger rig and specified other
things that would add weight.
I read somewhere that the new specs include a 2-inch thick steel plate on the
bottom of the box keel. I don't know if this is correct, but if it is the
boat might be substantially heavier now in its new incarnation.
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
>> How much does Romp weight when it is finished?
>
> According to the drawing in "Different Boats", design
> displacement is 8250 lb.
> I saw that video, too -- but wouldn't anyNo way!
> 1/4-inch plywood snap if you bent
> it over like that?
I use Meranti plywood and it needs to be cut with a saw. A utility knife will
only scratch the surface and it won't break along that cut line either.
I think this underlayment you're interested in is unidirectional plywood too,
isn't it?
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
According to the drawing in "Different Boats",design displacement is
8250 lb.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...>
wrote:
8250 lb.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...>
wrote:
>weight or
> How much does Romp weight when it is finished? I'm looking for the
> displacement of the completed boat as estimated by thedesigner ... :)
How much does Romp weight when it is finished? I'm looking for the weight or
displacement of the completed boat as estimated by the designer ... :)
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
displacement of the completed boat as estimated by the designer ... :)
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
I saw that video, too -- but wouldn't any 1/4-inch plywood snap if you bent it over like that? The score line just makes it so that it breaks on a straight line.
I'll have to wait until I get home tonight and try it.
---- Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...> wrote:
I'll have to wait until I get home tonight and try it.
---- Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...> wrote:
> I watched the video and all it takes is something sharp to score the surface
> and ultraply to 'snap in half' along the score line. I do not consider this
> a very strong feature, in fact it seems rather weak to me.
>
> Sincerely,
> Ken Grome
> Bagacay Boatworks
> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > I've built @6 watercraft with 1/4" ply, yet the ULTRAPLY seems like it
> > would be a superior product both in looks and strength. Since my
> > source here in eastern NC is "Lowes", Any ideas where it can be
> > found. The guru's at "Lowes" did'nt know what I was talking about.
> > For that matter, I don't really know either :-)
>
>
>
>
>
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I watched the video and all it takes is something sharp to score the surface
and ultraply to 'snap in half' along the score line. I do not consider this
a very strong feature, in fact it seems rather weak to me.
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
and ultraply to 'snap in half' along the score line. I do not consider this
a very strong feature, in fact it seems rather weak to me.
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
> I've built @6 watercraft with 1/4" ply, yet the ULTRAPLY seems like it
> would be a superior product both in looks and strength. Since my
> source here in eastern NC is "Lowes", Any ideas where it can be
> found. The guru's at "Lowes" did'nt know what I was talking about.
> For that matter, I don't really know either :-)