Re: Epoxy products in a caulking cartridge?
That would be glass and epoxy.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@...>
wrote:
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@...>
wrote:
>a
> I was talking about over the fill coat on epoxy Putting it on with
> wide drywall trawel. With the thickness it can be layed down tinand
> worked pritty smoth.fiber
>
> Jon
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@> wrote:
> >
> > I think that putting epoxy on a boat exterior without using a
> > matrix is wasting epoxy, it will crack and you will loose thewhich
> barrier.
> > Dynel in a matrix is more abrasion resistant than fiberglass by
> > thickness and way more abrasion resistant than straight epoxy
> youepoxy
> > can demonstrate to yourself with a sander. If you want even more
> > abrasion resistance than you can go to some of the Arimids like
> Kevlar.
> > Dynel is not easy to finish smooth and will not finish clear so
> > fiberglass tends to get the nod. I have always seen a silica
> > mixture used as a glue and for structural fillits. I have neverit
> seen an
> > epoxy cabosil mix used as a coating mixture. I would think that
> wouldbuild
> > be hard to get on smooth and you would still need a fiber matrix
> under
> > it for exterior work.
> >
> > All this being said, it appears we disagree which is fine, we
> our
> > boats the way we want to. Different ships different long splices.
> >
> > HJ
>
I was talking about over the fill coat on epoxy Putting it on with a
wide drywall trawel. With the thickness it can be layed down tin and
worked pritty smoth.
Jon
wide drywall trawel. With the thickness it can be layed down tin and
worked pritty smoth.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> I think that putting epoxy on a boat exterior without using a fiber
> matrix is wasting epoxy, it will crack and you will loose the
barrier.
> Dynel in a matrix is more abrasion resistant than fiberglass by
> thickness and way more abrasion resistant than straight epoxy which
you
> can demonstrate to yourself with a sander. If you want even more
> abrasion resistance than you can go to some of the Arimids like
Kevlar.
> Dynel is not easy to finish smooth and will not finish clear so
> fiberglass tends to get the nod. I have always seen a silica epoxy
> mixture used as a glue and for structural fillits. I have never
seen an
> epoxy cabosil mix used as a coating mixture. I would think that it
would
> be hard to get on smooth and you would still need a fiber matrix
under
> it for exterior work.
>
> All this being said, it appears we disagree which is fine, we build
our
> boats the way we want to. Different ships different long splices.
>
> HJ
> I think that putting epoxy on a boat exteriorSome people might use it on their bare wood instead of primer because it
> without using a fiber matrix is wasting epoxy,
> it will crack and you will loose the barrier.
sticks better to the wood and lasts so much longer than almost all primers.
Clearly most people use epoxy for more than its excellent performance as a
primer, but it is really ideal for this purpose. Paint lasts a lot longer on
epoxy than on bare or primed wood when the boat is out in the weather.
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
Raka carries it also.
http://www.raka.com/
Local outfit
http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/
HJ
Jon & Wanda(Tink) wrote:
http://www.raka.com/
Local outfit
http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/
HJ
Jon & Wanda(Tink) wrote:
> Defender is where I got what I cut but didn't use. Being up in the
> Sound with all the Granit gravel beaches it couldn't hurt to use it.
>
> Jon
>
>http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|10918|16458&id=309346
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
>
>> Some years ago when they first came out with Dynel it
>> was going to replace fiberglass. Mind you this was
>> about 30 years ago.
>>
>> They were saying it was stronger then glass and half
>> the weight. Well I don't know if that is true or not
>> but you can find fiberglass almost any where. I have
>> yet to find it in a fiberglass shop.
>>
>> OK with that said where is a good place to get some
>> Dynel? When I do the bottom of my toy it will get
>> glassed and then one or two layers of Dynel for
>> abrasion resistance for beaching the boat.
>>
>> Blessings Krissie
>>
>> --- Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Several years ago an individual did some tests on
>>> abrasion resistance
>>> comparing Dynel to epoxy to 6 oz fiberglass in epoxy
>>> and published his
>>> results in Boatbuilder. One layer of Dynel is 6
>>> times more abrasion
>>> resistant than 1 layer of 6 oz fiberglass. If you
>>> compare actual
>>> thickness it still comes out to twice as resistant
>>> to abrasion. After
>>> reading that I have always used Dynel for the dinghy
>>> bottoms. It is
>>> noticeably better in resisting our rocky beaches.
>>>
>>> HJ
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> ______________________________________________________________________
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>
>>http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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I think that putting epoxy on a boat exterior without using a fiber
matrix is wasting epoxy, it will crack and you will loose the barrier.
Dynel in a matrix is more abrasion resistant than fiberglass by
thickness and way more abrasion resistant than straight epoxy which you
can demonstrate to yourself with a sander. If you want even more
abrasion resistance than you can go to some of the Arimids like Kevlar.
Dynel is not easy to finish smooth and will not finish clear so
fiberglass tends to get the nod. I have always seen a silica epoxy
mixture used as a glue and for structural fillits. I have never seen an
epoxy cabosil mix used as a coating mixture. I would think that it would
be hard to get on smooth and you would still need a fiber matrix under
it for exterior work.
All this being said, it appears we disagree which is fine, we build our
boats the way we want to. Different ships different long splices.
HJ
Jon & Wanda(Tink) wrote:
matrix is wasting epoxy, it will crack and you will loose the barrier.
Dynel in a matrix is more abrasion resistant than fiberglass by
thickness and way more abrasion resistant than straight epoxy which you
can demonstrate to yourself with a sander. If you want even more
abrasion resistance than you can go to some of the Arimids like Kevlar.
Dynel is not easy to finish smooth and will not finish clear so
fiberglass tends to get the nod. I have always seen a silica epoxy
mixture used as a glue and for structural fillits. I have never seen an
epoxy cabosil mix used as a coating mixture. I would think that it would
be hard to get on smooth and you would still need a fiber matrix under
it for exterior work.
All this being said, it appears we disagree which is fine, we build our
boats the way we want to. Different ships different long splices.
HJ
Jon & Wanda(Tink) wrote:
> In my case I am dealing with sandy beaches. In the test you are
> talking about 6 oz dynell took as much epoxy to work as 3 layers of 6
> oz glass. So 6 oz dynell has 3 times the epoxy doing most the work
> the cloths do little in the abrasion area. Addatives like cabosil and
> granet dust and others that are vary resistant can do the job with
> less weight and less epoxy. For real abrasion resistance it is time
> to go to steel. That is my thoughts and a good reason so few places
> carry Dynell but all carry fumed silica (cabosil).
>
> Jon
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
>> Several years ago an individual did some tests on abrasion
>>
> resistance
>
>> comparing Dynel to epoxy to 6 oz fiberglass in epoxy and published
>>
> his
>
>> results in Boatbuilder. One layer of Dynel is 6 times more abrasion
>> resistant than 1 layer of 6 oz fiberglass. If you compare actual
>> thickness it still comes out to twice as resistant to abrasion.
>>
> After
>
>> reading that I have always used Dynel for the dinghy bottoms. It is
>> noticeably better in resisting our rocky beaches.
>>
>> HJ
>>
>> Jon & Wanda(Tink) wrote:
>>
>>> Can you explain the shipping issues here pure epoxy has no VOC
>>>
> and
>
>>> non hasmat. For air freight tubes are less stabel then liquid in
>>>
> a
>
>>> jug. When it comes to Dynell I have come to the conclusion it is
>>>
> a
>
>>> bit overated for the cost. Dynell exspands a lot useing a lot of
>>> epoxy and has little stringth so it would seem it is just thick
>>>
> epoxy
>
>>> doing the work. Afew coats of epoxy mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with
>>>
> cabosil
>
>>> may work better for $ spent. I was going to use Dynell on my
>>> sternwheeler for beaching and decided to go the other rout insted.
>>>
>>> Jon
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
Defender is where I got what I cut but didn't use. Being up in the
Sound with all the Granit gravel beaches it couldn't hurt to use it.
Jon
http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|10918|16458&id=309346
Sound with all the Granit gravel beaches it couldn't hurt to use it.
Jon
http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|10918|16458&id=309346
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
>
> Some years ago when they first came out with Dynel it
> was going to replace fiberglass. Mind you this was
> about 30 years ago.
>
> They were saying it was stronger then glass and half
> the weight. Well I don't know if that is true or not
> but you can find fiberglass almost any where. I have
> yet to find it in a fiberglass shop.
>
> OK with that said where is a good place to get some
> Dynel? When I do the bottom of my toy it will get
> glassed and then one or two layers of Dynel for
> abrasion resistance for beaching the boat.
>
> Blessings Krissie
>
> --- Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> > Several years ago an individual did some tests on
> > abrasion resistance
> > comparing Dynel to epoxy to 6 oz fiberglass in epoxy
> > and published his
> > results in Boatbuilder. One layer of Dynel is 6
> > times more abrasion
> > resistant than 1 layer of 6 oz fiberglass. If you
> > compare actual
> > thickness it still comes out to twice as resistant
> > to abrasion. After
> > reading that I have always used Dynel for the dinghy
> > bottoms. It is
> > noticeably better in resisting our rocky beaches.
> >
> > HJ
> >
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out
Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.
>http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/
>
Some years ago when they first came out with Dynel it
was going to replace fiberglass. Mind you this was
about 30 years ago.
They were saying it was stronger then glass and half
the weight. Well I don't know if that is true or not
but you can find fiberglass almost any where. I have
yet to find it in a fiberglass shop.
OK with that said where is a good place to get some
Dynel? When I do the bottom of my toy it will get
glassed and then one or two layers of Dynel for
abrasion resistance for beaching the boat.
Blessings Krissie
--- Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/
was going to replace fiberglass. Mind you this was
about 30 years ago.
They were saying it was stronger then glass and half
the weight. Well I don't know if that is true or not
but you can find fiberglass almost any where. I have
yet to find it in a fiberglass shop.
OK with that said where is a good place to get some
Dynel? When I do the bottom of my toy it will get
glassed and then one or two layers of Dynel for
abrasion resistance for beaching the boat.
Blessings Krissie
--- Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
> Several years ago an individual did some tests on____________________________________________________________________________________Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.
> abrasion resistance
> comparing Dynel to epoxy to 6 oz fiberglass in epoxy
> and published his
> results in Boatbuilder. One layer of Dynel is 6
> times more abrasion
> resistant than 1 layer of 6 oz fiberglass. If you
> compare actual
> thickness it still comes out to twice as resistant
> to abrasion. After
> reading that I have always used Dynel for the dinghy
> bottoms. It is
> noticeably better in resisting our rocky beaches.
>
> HJ
>
http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/
In my case I am dealing with sandy beaches. In the test you are
talking about 6 oz dynell took as much epoxy to work as 3 layers of 6
oz glass. So 6 oz dynell has 3 times the epoxy doing most the work
the cloths do little in the abrasion area. Addatives like cabosil and
granet dust and others that are vary resistant can do the job with
less weight and less epoxy. For real abrasion resistance it is time
to go to steel. That is my thoughts and a good reason so few places
carry Dynell but all carry fumed silica (cabosil).
Jon
talking about 6 oz dynell took as much epoxy to work as 3 layers of 6
oz glass. So 6 oz dynell has 3 times the epoxy doing most the work
the cloths do little in the abrasion area. Addatives like cabosil and
granet dust and others that are vary resistant can do the job with
less weight and less epoxy. For real abrasion resistance it is time
to go to steel. That is my thoughts and a good reason so few places
carry Dynell but all carry fumed silica (cabosil).
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> Several years ago an individual did some tests on abrasion
resistance
> comparing Dynel to epoxy to 6 oz fiberglass in epoxy and published
his
> results in Boatbuilder. One layer of Dynel is 6 times more abrasion
> resistant than 1 layer of 6 oz fiberglass. If you compare actual
> thickness it still comes out to twice as resistant to abrasion.
After
> reading that I have always used Dynel for the dinghy bottoms. It is
> noticeably better in resisting our rocky beaches.
>
> HJ
>
> Jon & Wanda(Tink) wrote:
> > Can you explain the shipping issues here pure epoxy has no VOC
and
> > non hasmat. For air freight tubes are less stabel then liquid in
a
> > jug. When it comes to Dynell I have come to the conclusion it is
a
> > bit overated for the cost. Dynell exspands a lot useing a lot of
> > epoxy and has little stringth so it would seem it is just thick
epoxy
> > doing the work. Afew coats of epoxy mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with
cabosil
> > may work better for $ spent. I was going to use Dynell on my
> > sternwheeler for beaching and decided to go the other rout insted.
> >
> > Jon
> >
> >
> >
>
Several years ago an individual did some tests on abrasion resistance
comparing Dynel to epoxy to 6 oz fiberglass in epoxy and published his
results in Boatbuilder. One layer of Dynel is 6 times more abrasion
resistant than 1 layer of 6 oz fiberglass. If you compare actual
thickness it still comes out to twice as resistant to abrasion. After
reading that I have always used Dynel for the dinghy bottoms. It is
noticeably better in resisting our rocky beaches.
HJ
Jon & Wanda(Tink) wrote:
comparing Dynel to epoxy to 6 oz fiberglass in epoxy and published his
results in Boatbuilder. One layer of Dynel is 6 times more abrasion
resistant than 1 layer of 6 oz fiberglass. If you compare actual
thickness it still comes out to twice as resistant to abrasion. After
reading that I have always used Dynel for the dinghy bottoms. It is
noticeably better in resisting our rocky beaches.
HJ
Jon & Wanda(Tink) wrote:
> Can you explain the shipping issues here pure epoxy has no VOC and
> non hasmat. For air freight tubes are less stabel then liquid in a
> jug. When it comes to Dynell I have come to the conclusion it is a
> bit overated for the cost. Dynell exspands a lot useing a lot of
> epoxy and has little stringth so it would seem it is just thick epoxy
> doing the work. Afew coats of epoxy mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with cabosil
> may work better for $ spent. I was going to use Dynell on my
> sternwheeler for beaching and decided to go the other rout insted.
>
> Jon
>
>
>
Can you explain the shipping issues here pure epoxy has no VOC and
non hasmat. For air freight tubes are less stabel then liquid in a
jug. When it comes to Dynell I have come to the conclusion it is a
bit overated for the cost. Dynell exspands a lot useing a lot of
epoxy and has little stringth so it would seem it is just thick epoxy
doing the work. Afew coats of epoxy mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with cabosil
may work better for $ spent. I was going to use Dynell on my
sternwheeler for beaching and decided to go the other rout insted.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "The Peillet-Long Family"
<owlnmole@...> wrote:
non hasmat. For air freight tubes are less stabel then liquid in a
jug. When it comes to Dynell I have come to the conclusion it is a
bit overated for the cost. Dynell exspands a lot useing a lot of
epoxy and has little stringth so it would seem it is just thick epoxy
doing the work. Afew coats of epoxy mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with cabosil
may work better for $ spent. I was going to use Dynell on my
sternwheeler for beaching and decided to go the other rout insted.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "The Peillet-Long Family"
<owlnmole@...> wrote:
>expensive
> Thanks for this, Jon. I did figure that this would be more
> than bulk epoxy, but because of shipping issues it might still workfor
> me. The kind that comes in a single tub like the System Threeproducts
> in my first post can be dispensed in a cup and recapped, no mixinglocal
> tuble and no waste.
>
> For laminating, it's another question, and unless I can find a
> source for epoxy resin or, heaven forbid, polyester, I may justhave to
> live with a painted hull and glass at the chines, though what I'd
> really prefer is to cover the hull and deck with Dynel.
>
> Thanks again for your comments.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Matthew
>
Thanks for this, Jon. I did figure that this would be more expensive
than bulk epoxy, but because of shipping issues it might still work for
me. The kind that comes in a single tub like the System Three products
in my first post can be dispensed in a cup and recapped, no mixing
tuble and no waste.
For laminating, it's another question, and unless I can find a local
source for epoxy resin or, heaven forbid, polyester, I may just have to
live with a painted hull and glass at the chines, though what I'd
really prefer is to cover the hull and deck with Dynel.
Thanks again for your comments.
Cheers,
Matthew
than bulk epoxy, but because of shipping issues it might still work for
me. The kind that comes in a single tub like the System Three products
in my first post can be dispensed in a cup and recapped, no mixing
tuble and no waste.
For laminating, it's another question, and unless I can find a local
source for epoxy resin or, heaven forbid, polyester, I may just have to
live with a painted hull and glass at the chines, though what I'd
really prefer is to cover the hull and deck with Dynel.
Thanks again for your comments.
Cheers,
Matthew
In construction we use two types for ancher bolts in concreat. One is
a single tube with a shaft you connect to a drill that mixes in the
tube then is used in a regular calking gun. Comes out thick and sags
gray in color. The other is in two tubes and uses a special calking
gun (two plungers) the mixing is in the nozzles. The secong behaves
like the first but removing the nozzle saves some of it and put a new
nozzle on to use some more wasting what was in the nozzle with each
change. It sets rather fast and both waste a lot. Cost for use it is
higher then any epoxy you buy in a jug and mix in a plastic tumbler
with popsicle sticks (no waste) for small baches. Cost of a sleave of
clear plastic drink tumblers (wal-mart) and a box of 1000 popsicle
sticks and throw away foam brushes (craft store) are realy cheap to
use epoxy in the jug. Waste and the cost of epoxy in the tube with
extra nozzles cost twice as much to use and will not mix as well. The
tubes you can not add filler to eather. We would use regular epoxy
for the anchor bolts but the inspectors want to see the gray color.
Same epoxy as far as hold maybe we should just buy some black and
white color addative to save money.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "The Peillet-Long Family"
<owlnmole@...> wrote:
a single tube with a shaft you connect to a drill that mixes in the
tube then is used in a regular calking gun. Comes out thick and sags
gray in color. The other is in two tubes and uses a special calking
gun (two plungers) the mixing is in the nozzles. The secong behaves
like the first but removing the nozzle saves some of it and put a new
nozzle on to use some more wasting what was in the nozzle with each
change. It sets rather fast and both waste a lot. Cost for use it is
higher then any epoxy you buy in a jug and mix in a plastic tumbler
with popsicle sticks (no waste) for small baches. Cost of a sleave of
clear plastic drink tumblers (wal-mart) and a box of 1000 popsicle
sticks and throw away foam brushes (craft store) are realy cheap to
use epoxy in the jug. Waste and the cost of epoxy in the tube with
extra nozzles cost twice as much to use and will not mix as well. The
tubes you can not add filler to eather. We would use regular epoxy
for the anchor bolts but the inspectors want to see the gray color.
Same epoxy as far as hold maybe we should just buy some black and
white color addative to save money.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "The Peillet-Long Family"
<owlnmole@...> wrote:
>are
> Does anyone have any experience with any of the epoxy products that
> now available in standard caulking-gun cartridges?epoxy
>
> System Three makes a few that seem ideal for the small batches of
> used in building a wooden boat, but maybe there is a downside I amless
> missing.
>
> There are special mixing nozzles, too--I imagine that these are one-
> time use only?
>
> One reason I ask is that I think the caulking cartridges would be
> likely to raise eyebrows in the limited mail service I have fromthe
> USA. Liquids are frowned upon.
>
> See Jamestown Distributors, for example, to see what I'm talking
> about. <http://preview.tinyurl.com/2skx64>
>
> Regards,
>
> Matthew
>
Does anyone have any experience with any of the epoxy products that are
now available in standard caulking-gun cartridges?
System Three makes a few that seem ideal for the small batches of epoxy
used in building a wooden boat, but maybe there is a downside I am
missing.
There are special mixing nozzles, too--I imagine that these are one-
time use only?
One reason I ask is that I think the caulking cartridges would be less
likely to raise eyebrows in the limited mail service I have from the
USA. Liquids are frowned upon.
See Jamestown Distributors, for example, to see what I'm talking
about. <http://preview.tinyurl.com/2skx64>
Regards,
Matthew
now available in standard caulking-gun cartridges?
System Three makes a few that seem ideal for the small batches of epoxy
used in building a wooden boat, but maybe there is a downside I am
missing.
There are special mixing nozzles, too--I imagine that these are one-
time use only?
One reason I ask is that I think the caulking cartridges would be less
likely to raise eyebrows in the limited mail service I have from the
USA. Liquids are frowned upon.
See Jamestown Distributors, for example, to see what I'm talking
about. <http://preview.tinyurl.com/2skx64>
Regards,
Matthew