Re: Bottom Paint
Paul,
I would get the advice of your epoxy supplier. I applied two coats of
primer to my Long Micro, sanded w/ 220 grit, and rolled my bottom
paint. I have had some problems w/ peeling and flaking in spots below
the water line. If I could do it over again I would have spoken w/ my
epoxy folks (and perhaps saved all the priming and sanding), and I
would definitely sand the primer or epoxy w/ something around 100
grit. I think my adhesion problems are due to a lack of bite from
sanding w/ 220, not necessarily the presence of primer.
Your mileage may vary. I think it's cool that you have an MJ. Nice
boat.
Bill, in Ohio
I would get the advice of your epoxy supplier. I applied two coats of
primer to my Long Micro, sanded w/ 220 grit, and rolled my bottom
paint. I have had some problems w/ peeling and flaking in spots below
the water line. If I could do it over again I would have spoken w/ my
epoxy folks (and perhaps saved all the priming and sanding), and I
would definitely sand the primer or epoxy w/ something around 100
grit. I think my adhesion problems are due to a lack of bite from
sanding w/ 220, not necessarily the presence of primer.
Your mileage may vary. I think it's cool that you have an MJ. Nice
boat.
Bill, in Ohio
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "paull01" <paull01@...> wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to fiberglass the new ply bottom of Tomboy(Jessie
> Cooper design). I acquired a gallon of Interlux Epoxycop and I'm
> wondering if I need to use some kind of primer or if I can apply it
> directly to the epoxy coated roving. Any thoughts or experience with
> this stuff?
>
> Paul
> Seattle
>
Hi: Would highly recommend a primer and proper prep of the substrate. I
did not prime on one project and continue to have lifting problems
years later. One thing to note about 2 part primers is they will last
quite awhile --- a week or more if the lid is put back on the can
tightly. This I discovered when somebody at the yard asked me If i
could use his left over catalyzed primer and to my surprise it ws fine
11/2 weeks later. Don't remembr the brand.
did not prime on one project and continue to have lifting problems
years later. One thing to note about 2 part primers is they will last
quite awhile --- a week or more if the lid is put back on the can
tightly. This I discovered when somebody at the yard asked me If i
could use his left over catalyzed primer and to my surprise it ws fine
11/2 weeks later. Don't remembr the brand.
I'm getting ready to fiberglass the new ply bottom of Tomboy(Jessie
Cooper design). I acquired a gallon of Interlux Epoxycop and I'm
wondering if I need to use some kind of primer or if I can apply it
directly to the epoxy coated roving. Any thoughts or experience with
this stuff?
Paul
Seattle
Cooper design). I acquired a gallon of Interlux Epoxycop and I'm
wondering if I need to use some kind of primer or if I can apply it
directly to the epoxy coated roving. Any thoughts or experience with
this stuff?
Paul
Seattle
Had no problems coating the bottom of our AS29.
Leo
Leo
> We no longer use the Copper Epoxy. While it is a good idea and the
>finish cures very hard, the application is a nightmare.
This from a gentleman at Devlin Boat builders when I asked about bottom
finishes (Sam Devlins boat building book, which I like very much,
recommended Copper Epoxy bottom finish, and I emailed to find out the
manufacturer):
We no longer use the Copper Epoxy. While it is a good idea and the
finish
cures very hard, the application is a nightmare. I cringe at the thought
of
applying it. It was originally created by System Three and I believe the
recipe
was sold a couple of years back so I can't say what label you can find
it under.
For the past five or six years we have used Micron CSC bottom paint
exclusively,
and that is what I would recommend.
Glen
finishes (Sam Devlins boat building book, which I like very much,
recommended Copper Epoxy bottom finish, and I emailed to find out the
manufacturer):
We no longer use the Copper Epoxy. While it is a good idea and the
finish
cures very hard, the application is a nightmare. I cringe at the thought
of
applying it. It was originally created by System Three and I believe the
recipe
was sold a couple of years back so I can't say what label you can find
it under.
For the past five or six years we have used Micron CSC bottom paint
exclusively,
and that is what I would recommend.
Glen
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
Colorado. It is a piece of cake to apply, recoat and touch up. I am
also using Interlux Bottomkote on my Typhoon but only because that is
what was on it when I bought it. It has only been in the water a
couple of months so that is no test. "Practical Sailor" ran tests
several years ago on bottom paints. I don't recall the conclusion.
Bob Chamberland
> FBBB --fresh relatively clean water. Lake Michigan, and Dillon reservoir in
>
> The light scooner Margeret Ellen has not faired well under the no
> bottom paint/scrub often plan and finds herself in need of a haul out
> for repairs and repainting.
>
> I'd like to give her a proper antifouling paint job, but find myself
>> Suggestions?
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
> Hi David, I've used and am still using VC-17m. This has been in
Colorado. It is a piece of cake to apply, recoat and touch up. I am
also using Interlux Bottomkote on my Typhoon but only because that is
what was on it when I bought it. It has only been in the water a
couple of months so that is no test. "Practical Sailor" ran tests
several years ago on bottom paints. I don't recall the conclusion.
Bob Chamberland
When I came to paint a bottom several years ago, I found that their
was no consistent locally preferred paint. I went and bought Petite
Trinidad, because it had the highest percentage of copper. Three years
later there was only very slight growth on the bottom. If I understand
correctly where you have the LSME moored, I would be very surprised if
you did not get 3 years of use. The stuff is expensive, and has to be
stirred right before use otherwise the copper settles out. WEST Marine
has it on sale occasionally in the spring.
HJ
Chris Crandall wrote:
was no consistent locally preferred paint. I went and bought Petite
Trinidad, because it had the highest percentage of copper. Three years
later there was only very slight growth on the bottom. If I understand
correctly where you have the LSME moored, I would be very surprised if
you did not get 3 years of use. The stuff is expensive, and has to be
stirred right before use otherwise the copper settles out. WEST Marine
has it on sale occasionally in the spring.
HJ
Chris Crandall wrote:
>
> On Sun, 14 Oct 2001, David Ryan wrote:
> > I'd like to give her a proper antifouling paint job, but find myself a
> > little overwhelmed by all the various options.
>
> Every sensible person I know has said "find out what's used locally with
> success". It ain't the boat, it's the biology that matter.
>
>
On Sun, 14 Oct 2001, David Ryan wrote:
success". It ain't the boat, it's the biology that matter.
> I'd like to give her a proper antifouling paint job, but find myself aEvery sensible person I know has said "find out what's used locally with
> little overwhelmed by all the various options.
success". It ain't the boat, it's the biology that matter.
My boats have used the Petit Unepoxy copper bottom paint. One coat
each year. No problems with any barnacles or grass, but some slime.
Slime doesn't mind copper.
When I kept my boats in Noank, the bottom paint was not as effective.
I don't know whether the paint is better now, or if there is a
difference in the water. Here in Western Long Island Sound, the
salinity is about 75% of the open ocean value.
Peter
each year. No problems with any barnacles or grass, but some slime.
Slime doesn't mind copper.
When I kept my boats in Noank, the bottom paint was not as effective.
I don't know whether the paint is better now, or if there is a
difference in the water. Here in Western Long Island Sound, the
salinity is about 75% of the open ocean value.
Peter
David,
I've always used Interlux Bottomkote for my past few boats with
great results.These boats have generally spent the entire season( 6
months up here)in the water and remain clean.It retails for about
$29.00 Can/Litre and I get two seasons worth on my Micro LESTAT.
Mind you,this is in fresh water or rather the heavy metal,toxic
industrial soup that passes for"fresh".
This past August when I brought my boat down for the Lake Champain
Bolger Messabout,I did notice that the bottom sprouted a fuzzy green
mustache in under three days!Hmmmmmmm........
It has just occured to me that perhaps the paint is perhaps not so
useful afterall and that my great results are more a function of the
shitty stuff the boat floats in.I'll have to try no paint next year to
see if there is a difference!
I do not know how well this paint may work in salt water,nor just
how polluted your sailing area is.What do the other guys in your area
use/recommend? They may be your best source for a tested/proven
product.
All the best!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,marvelling at a pair of F-18s that have been flying
around all day over Montréal,from the shores of the windy
St.Lawrence.........
I've always used Interlux Bottomkote for my past few boats with
great results.These boats have generally spent the entire season( 6
months up here)in the water and remain clean.It retails for about
$29.00 Can/Litre and I get two seasons worth on my Micro LESTAT.
Mind you,this is in fresh water or rather the heavy metal,toxic
industrial soup that passes for"fresh".
This past August when I brought my boat down for the Lake Champain
Bolger Messabout,I did notice that the bottom sprouted a fuzzy green
mustache in under three days!Hmmmmmmm........
It has just occured to me that perhaps the paint is perhaps not so
useful afterall and that my great results are more a function of the
shitty stuff the boat floats in.I'll have to try no paint next year to
see if there is a difference!
I do not know how well this paint may work in salt water,nor just
how polluted your sailing area is.What do the other guys in your area
use/recommend? They may be your best source for a tested/proven
product.
All the best!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,marvelling at a pair of F-18s that have been flying
around all day over Montréal,from the shores of the windy
St.Lawrence.........
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> FBBB --
>
> The light scooner Margeret Ellen has not faired well under the no
> bottom paint/scrub often plan and finds herself in need of a haul
out
> for repairs and repainting.
>
> I'd like to give her a proper antifouling paint job, but find myself
> a little overwhelmed by all the various options.
>
> She spends 90%+ of her time afloat. As very little of her is in the
> water the price difference between going cheap and firs-class is
> probably relatively small.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
>
> C.E.P.
> 134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
> New York, New York 10001
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> (212) 247-0296
FBBB --
The light scooner Margeret Ellen has not faired well under the no
bottom paint/scrub often plan and finds herself in need of a haul out
for repairs and repainting.
I'd like to give her a proper antifouling paint job, but find myself
a little overwhelmed by all the various options.
She spends 90%+ of her time afloat. As very little of her is in the
water the price difference between going cheap and firs-class is
probably relatively small.
Suggestions?
YIBB,
David
C.E.P.
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
The light scooner Margeret Ellen has not faired well under the no
bottom paint/scrub often plan and finds herself in need of a haul out
for repairs and repainting.
I'd like to give her a proper antifouling paint job, but find myself
a little overwhelmed by all the various options.
She spends 90%+ of her time afloat. As very little of her is in the
water the price difference between going cheap and firs-class is
probably relatively small.
Suggestions?
YIBB,
David
C.E.P.
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
Dave,
The Practical Sailor magazine had a review some time back of the use of a greasy sun tan lotion which
was supposed not to wash off and which was claimed to not allow marine growth to stick to the bottom
of a boat. They didn't give it a very glowing review as I recall, but if the idea works at all, it
might avoid the use of death in a can.
Just a thought,
Jim
David Ryan wrote:
The Practical Sailor magazine had a review some time back of the use of a greasy sun tan lotion which
was supposed not to wash off and which was claimed to not allow marine growth to stick to the bottom
of a boat. They didn't give it a very glowing review as I recall, but if the idea works at all, it
might avoid the use of death in a can.
Just a thought,
Jim
David Ryan wrote:
> FBBB --
>
> Now that the water's warmed up, the flora and fauna is growing on my
> scooner at an alarming rate. I spent about 30 mintutes yesterday
> scraping it off, but am thinking some poison paint might be in order.
>
> Is there something that isn't death in a can, but will do a passable
> job of keeping the marine growth down?
>
> YIBB,
>
> CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
> 134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
> New York, New York 10001
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> (212) 247-0296
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
David I've used VC17 on several boats in cold fresh water (Dillon
Reservoir in Colorado and Grand Traverse Bay in Michigan). It works
well in cold, fresh water and is a snap to apply. I've used it on
wooden boats and fibreglass, I don't see any difference, the wooden
boats are plywood reinforced plastic after all. There are
different formulations for sailboats or powerboats however so get the
right one.
Bob Chamberland
Reservoir in Colorado and Grand Traverse Bay in Michigan). It works
well in cold, fresh water and is a snap to apply. I've used it on
wooden boats and fibreglass, I don't see any difference, the wooden
boats are plywood reinforced plastic after all. There are
different formulations for sailboats or powerboats however so get the
right one.
Bob Chamberland
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> FBBB --
>
> Now that the water's warmed up, the flora and fauna is growing on my
> scooner at an alarming rate. I spent about 30 mintutes yesterday
> scraping it off, but am thinking some poison paint might be in
order.
>
> Is there something that isn't death in a can, but will do a passable
> job of keeping the marine growth down?
>
> YIBB,
>
>
> CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
> 134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
> New York, New York 10001
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> (212) 247-0296
Is there something that isn't death in a can, but will do a passable
job of keeping the marine growth down?
I don't think that the copper bottom paints are as bad for you as the
organic tin compounds that are now outlawed, except for metal boats.
That is, they are not much worse than other paints. "Not a strong
statement," PCB might say.
Peter
job of keeping the marine growth down?
I don't think that the copper bottom paints are as bad for you as the
organic tin compounds that are now outlawed, except for metal boats.
That is, they are not much worse than other paints. "Not a strong
statement," PCB might say.
Peter
Trinidad.
>Now that the water's warmed up, the flora and fauna is growing on my
>scooner at an alarming rate. I spent about 30 mintutes yesterday
>scraping it off, but am thinking some poison paint might be in order.
>
>Is there something that isn't death in a can, but will do a passable
>job of keeping the marine growth down?
FBBB --
Now that the water's warmed up, the flora and fauna is growing on my
scooner at an alarming rate. I spent about 30 mintutes yesterday
scraping it off, but am thinking some poison paint might be in order.
Is there something that isn't death in a can, but will do a passable
job of keeping the marine growth down?
YIBB,
CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
Now that the water's warmed up, the flora and fauna is growing on my
scooner at an alarming rate. I spent about 30 mintutes yesterday
scraping it off, but am thinking some poison paint might be in order.
Is there something that isn't death in a can, but will do a passable
job of keeping the marine growth down?
YIBB,
CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
If you were hauling a Chebacco onto a trailer most of the time; if
you sailed in salt mostly but freshwater some of the time...would you
say that it is still mandatory to paint the bottom with anti-fouling
goop to keep barnacles and other bottom clingers away? If the anti-
fouling paint wasn't needed...would you think that graphite-loaded
epoxy on the bottom might just boost the speed of the boat a bit and
be a sensible alternative?
Dick
you sailed in salt mostly but freshwater some of the time...would you
say that it is still mandatory to paint the bottom with anti-fouling
goop to keep barnacles and other bottom clingers away? If the anti-
fouling paint wasn't needed...would you think that graphite-loaded
epoxy on the bottom might just boost the speed of the boat a bit and
be a sensible alternative?
Dick