Re: [bolger] Re:Shop safety and your health was FORMER WEST EPOXY USERS
I try to keep a gal of vineger on hand though I wouldn't care to put
acetic acid in my eye. Vineger or acetic acid does a great job of
disolving liquid epoxy so that you can wash it out with soap and water,
from hands, clothes, door knob, telephone, and hair. Clyde
John Kohnen wrote:
acetic acid in my eye. Vineger or acetic acid does a great job of
disolving liquid epoxy so that you can wash it out with soap and water,
from hands, clothes, door knob, telephone, and hair. Clyde
John Kohnen wrote:
>I've heard that one of the catalysts used with polyester resin can ruin[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>your eye in short order if you get any in it. MEKP, I think. Methyl Ethyl
>Ketone Peroxide?
>
>I can't imagine a similar disaster from the sort of epoxy we use, which
>has no solvents or volatile chemicals in it...
>
>I still don't want to get it in my eyes, though.
>
>On Tue, 19 Jun 2007 15:40:42 -0700, Gronicle wrote:
>
>
>
>>...
>>I think Krissie has it right about resin and safety. Back about '75, I
>>more or less accidentally ran into an accident report write up while in
>>the
>>USAF. The incident in question was a report, including graphic photos,
>>of
>>an airman who had splashed some liquid epoxy resin into one of his eyes
>>while working on some project. His eye ball was eaten out....
>>Interestingly, I have never heard or read of a similar accident and
>>wonder
>>looking back on it if the report was accurate about the epoxy being the
>>cause of the damage? I suppose that now it is possible to dive into
>>data
>>on the Net and attempt to confirm or deny?? Anyone have any knowledge
>>for
>>or against?
>>
>>
>
>
>
I've heard that one of the catalysts used with polyester resin can ruin
your eye in short order if you get any in it. MEKP, I think. Methyl Ethyl
Ketone Peroxide?
I can't imagine a similar disaster from the sort of epoxy we use, which
has no solvents or volatile chemicals in it...
I still don't want to get it in my eyes, though.
your eye in short order if you get any in it. MEKP, I think. Methyl Ethyl
Ketone Peroxide?
I can't imagine a similar disaster from the sort of epoxy we use, which
has no solvents or volatile chemicals in it...
I still don't want to get it in my eyes, though.
On Tue, 19 Jun 2007 15:40:42 -0700, Gronicle wrote:
> ...
> I think Krissie has it right about resin and safety. Back about '75, I
> more or less accidentally ran into an accident report write up while in
> the
> USAF. The incident in question was a report, including graphic photos,
> of
> an airman who had splashed some liquid epoxy resin into one of his eyes
> while working on some project. His eye ball was eaten out....
> Interestingly, I have never heard or read of a similar accident and
> wonder
> looking back on it if the report was accurate about the epoxy being the
> cause of the damage? I suppose that now it is possible to dive into
> data
> on the Net and attempt to confirm or deny?? Anyone have any knowledge
> for
> or against?
--
John <jkohnen@...>
The only way to keep your health is to eat what you don't want,
drink what you don't like, and do what you'd rather not. <Mark
Twain>
You know what works well is a large shop trash bag cut
in half and taped around your wast to make an apron.
As for clothing hitt the goodwill's or 2nd hand
clothing stores for work clothes. Also you can get
well used coveralls at times for like 12 bucks they do
wonders! The few times I used the tyvek suits I felt
like I was in a suna on high heat!
But I will say they were nice when I was gringing
under a boat!
You know it would be nice to have 10 dollars for every
pound of fiberglass dust I have made over the years!
On one boat we had two 55 gal drums full of just
grinding dust. How many hours with a gringer in my
hand? 7 hours a day for 7 days. Then came the fun of
putting back what we took off!!! What we put on was
glass and epoxy and most of it was overhead. It took
four of us to do the layup work. Now if you don't
think that was fun?
On that job we used something like 60 gal. of epoxy,
and I think it was 400 lbs of DB and 7781 cloth. Guess
what the hull turned out to be fair as well when we
were done. But it did get some fairing done to it all
the same.
Sorry about the story telling just me remembering back
a few years.
BLessings Krissie
--- Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
in half and taped around your wast to make an apron.
As for clothing hitt the goodwill's or 2nd hand
clothing stores for work clothes. Also you can get
well used coveralls at times for like 12 bucks they do
wonders! The few times I used the tyvek suits I felt
like I was in a suna on high heat!
But I will say they were nice when I was gringing
under a boat!
You know it would be nice to have 10 dollars for every
pound of fiberglass dust I have made over the years!
On one boat we had two 55 gal drums full of just
grinding dust. How many hours with a gringer in my
hand? 7 hours a day for 7 days. Then came the fun of
putting back what we took off!!! What we put on was
glass and epoxy and most of it was overhead. It took
four of us to do the layup work. Now if you don't
think that was fun?
On that job we used something like 60 gal. of epoxy,
and I think it was 400 lbs of DB and 7781 cloth. Guess
what the hull turned out to be fair as well when we
were done. But it did get some fairing done to it all
the same.
Sorry about the story telling just me remembering back
a few years.
BLessings Krissie
--- Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
> I have gotten tired of the sermon's on ruining good____________________________________________________________________________________
> clothes so I either
> wear a set of shop cloths that are well into the
> already ruined state or
> pull out the tyvek suit that is with the epoxy
> stuff. I need to check on
> tyvek suits on ebay.
>
> HJ
>
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
Some of the early epoxys were very nasty stuff. I
remember seeing photos of what MEKP will do to your
skin and eyes. My Dad learned first hand what it feels
like to get it in your eyes... Can you say wet your
pants pain!
They have found ways to tame the stuff down but it's
still not good for you! I know I feel better now that
I'm not up to my butt in resin building boats. I also
don't smell like resin any more!
I do have a few projects that will need to be done and
yes I will be useing epoxy on them. But I will be
useing what I have learned over the last 35 years to
play it safe and still get the job done.
Blessings Krissie
--- Gronicle <machinist@...> wrote:
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
remember seeing photos of what MEKP will do to your
skin and eyes. My Dad learned first hand what it feels
like to get it in your eyes... Can you say wet your
pants pain!
They have found ways to tame the stuff down but it's
still not good for you! I know I feel better now that
I'm not up to my butt in resin building boats. I also
don't smell like resin any more!
I do have a few projects that will need to be done and
yes I will be useing epoxy on them. But I will be
useing what I have learned over the last 35 years to
play it safe and still get the job done.
Blessings Krissie
--- Gronicle <machinist@...> wrote:
>____________________________________________________________________________________
>
> I think Krissie has it right about resin and safety.
> Back about '75, I
> more or less accidentally ran into an accident
> report write up while in the
> USAF. The incident in question was a report,
> including graphic photos, of
> an airman who had splashed some liquid epoxy resin
> into one of his eyes
> while working on some project. His eye ball was
> eaten out. It made a
> real impression on me as I had done just a little
> casual epoxy work on some
> small canoe projects before then with no safety gear
> at all. I put off
> buying the plans for a little clunker of a trim rand
> that was wood/epoxy
> construction after reading the report.
>
> Interestingly, I have never heard or read of a
> similar accident and wonder
> looking back on it if the report was accurate about
> the epoxy being the
> cause of the damage? I suppose that now it is
> possible to dive into data
> on the Net and attempt to confirm or deny?? Anyone
> have any knowledge for
> or against?
>
> Regards, Gronicle
>
>
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
Ah, yes. "Newspeak!" The "talc" I'm talking about is a mineral.
"A fine-grained white, greenish, or gray mineral, Mg3Si4O10(OH)2, having a soft soapy feel and used in talcum and face powder, as a paper coating, and as a filler for paint and plastics."
(And the conversation with the barber was back in 1980.)
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
"A fine-grained white, greenish, or gray mineral, Mg3Si4O10(OH)2, having a soft soapy feel and used in talcum and face powder, as a paper coating, and as a filler for paint and plastics."
(And the conversation with the barber was back in 1980.)
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Bryant Owen
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 6:54 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re:Shop safety: using powder and gloves ...
Right on, Roger. Some points...
These days, most baby powder "talc"s you buy at a
drug/food/convenience store are far more corn starch, baking soda and other additives than talc. Which "talc" are we talking about.
Cosmetic talc, by law in the US is "talc which does not contain
potentially carcinogenic asbestiform amphibole fibers"
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talc). While your barber is somewhat
correct in that they are somewhat related and often found together,
there *is* a difference in the stuff he'd use.
The FDA has deemed talc "Generally recognized as safe" *for now* but there's some evidence that talc itself may not be that safe and
contributive to pulmonary problems and some cancers.
I think a wise person should take appropriate precautions with any
dust that fine - mask up.
BTW - there's a pottery operation next to my office and I bought some talc from the owner as an epoxy additive. He told me that the talc they get is very, very pure (I forget the percentage 99.8%?). He
wouldn't charge me for the 2lb or so I got - said he bought it in
volume and it's pretty inexpensive that way. And, yes, I've been very
careful when mixing.
Bryant
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> Just because I like to play Devil's Advocate:
>
> My barber quit using talc on his patrons because, he said, talc and
asbestos come from the same mineral deposits. Unless you buy the
REALLY expensive talc, what you get is a mixture. Asbestos is benign,
unless you breath it in. It will not jump out of the roof tiles nor
down from the water pipes, but dusting the baby's bottom is probably a
no-no. Grinding roof tiles to shape in the factory definitely
requires a mask.
>
> So: put on your mask before you dust your hands.
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Slimak
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 10:30 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Re:Shop safety: using powder and gloves ...
>
>
> I like the powder idea and will try that. No one has mentioned
vinyl gloves. When vinyl gloves came out due to allergies to latex I
tried them and found them much better than latex. Latex would balloon
out at the finget tips from the epoxy and then rip when using your
fingers as a smoothing tool on fillets. While vinyl will eventually
rip, I found they lasted much longer than latex. I tried nitrile, and
found they ripped easily, going through three times as many gloves as
with vinyl. Vinyl is a lot cheaper than nitrile, waching for sales I
have bought them for as little as $3.95 per hundred at Menards.
>
> Bob Slimak
>
> ---------------------------------
> TV dinner still cooling?
> Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
This is a good price and there other supplys are worth the check.
$5.50 hooded $7.00 like foam rollers 50/$50
http://www.mertons.com/Tools/tyvek.html
Jon
$5.50 hooded $7.00 like foam rollers 50/$50
http://www.mertons.com/Tools/tyvek.html
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> I have gotten tired of the sermon's on ruining good clothes so I
either
> wear a set of shop cloths that are well into the already ruined
state or
> pull out the tyvek suit that is with the epoxy stuff. I need to
check on
> tyvek suits on ebay.
>
> HJ
>
I have gotten tired of the sermon's on ruining good clothes so I either
wear a set of shop cloths that are well into the already ruined state or
pull out the tyvek suit that is with the epoxy stuff. I need to check on
tyvek suits on ebay.
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
wear a set of shop cloths that are well into the already ruined state or
pull out the tyvek suit that is with the epoxy stuff. I need to check on
tyvek suits on ebay.
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
> For a couple years now I have been using nitrile gloves bought on
> EBay, by the case of 1000 each. They can be had for as low as $0.06
> each delivered. Vinyl even cheaper. Search ebay using the search
> terms '1000 gloves'. I really appreciate not getting epoxy on my
> skin anymore, and will never go back to bare handed epoxy work. I
> still get epoxy on my clothes, and have ruined countless jeans shoes
> and shirts.
>
>
>
>
Right on, Roger. Some points...
These days, most baby powder "talc"s you buy at a
drug/food/convenience store are far more corn starch, baking soda and
other additives than talc. Which "talc" are we talking about.
Cosmetic talc, by law in the US is "talc which does not contain
potentially carcinogenic asbestiform amphibole fibers"
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talc). While your barber is somewhat
correct in that they are somewhat related and often found together,
there *is* a difference in the stuff he'd use.
The FDA has deemed talc "Generally recognized as safe" *for now* but
there's some evidence that talc itself may not be that safe and
contributive to pulmonary problems and some cancers.
I think a wise person should take appropriate precautions with any
dust that fine - mask up.
BTW - there's a pottery operation next to my office and I bought some
talc from the owner as an epoxy additive. He told me that the talc
they get is very, very pure (I forget the percentage 99.8%?). He
wouldn't charge me for the 2lb or so I got - said he bought it in
volume and it's pretty inexpensive that way. And, yes, I've been very
careful when mixing.
Bryant
These days, most baby powder "talc"s you buy at a
drug/food/convenience store are far more corn starch, baking soda and
other additives than talc. Which "talc" are we talking about.
Cosmetic talc, by law in the US is "talc which does not contain
potentially carcinogenic asbestiform amphibole fibers"
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talc). While your barber is somewhat
correct in that they are somewhat related and often found together,
there *is* a difference in the stuff he'd use.
The FDA has deemed talc "Generally recognized as safe" *for now* but
there's some evidence that talc itself may not be that safe and
contributive to pulmonary problems and some cancers.
I think a wise person should take appropriate precautions with any
dust that fine - mask up.
BTW - there's a pottery operation next to my office and I bought some
talc from the owner as an epoxy additive. He told me that the talc
they get is very, very pure (I forget the percentage 99.8%?). He
wouldn't charge me for the 2lb or so I got - said he bought it in
volume and it's pretty inexpensive that way. And, yes, I've been very
careful when mixing.
Bryant
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "derbyrm" <derbyrm@...> wrote:
>
> Just because I like to play Devil's Advocate:
>
> My barber quit using talc on his patrons because, he said, talc and
asbestos come from the same mineral deposits. Unless you buy the
REALLY expensive talc, what you get is a mixture. Asbestos is benign,
unless you breath it in. It will not jump out of the roof tiles nor
down from the water pipes, but dusting the baby's bottom is probably a
no-no. Grinding roof tiles to shape in the factory definitely
requires a mask.
>
> So: put on your mask before you dust your hands.
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@...
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Slimak
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 10:30 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Re:Shop safety: using powder and gloves ...
>
>
> I like the powder idea and will try that. No one has mentioned
vinyl gloves. When vinyl gloves came out due to allergies to latex I
tried them and found them much better than latex. Latex would balloon
out at the finget tips from the epoxy and then rip when using your
fingers as a smoothing tool on fillets. While vinyl will eventually
rip, I found they lasted much longer than latex. I tried nitrile, and
found they ripped easily, going through three times as many gloves as
with vinyl. Vinyl is a lot cheaper than nitrile, waching for sales I
have bought them for as little as $3.95 per hundred at Menards.
>
> Bob Slimak
>
> ---------------------------------
> TV dinner still cooling?
> Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
I think Krissie has it right about resin and safety. Back about '75, I
more or less accidentally ran into an accident report write up while in the
USAF. The incident in question was a report, including graphic photos, of
an airman who had splashed some liquid epoxy resin into one of his eyes
while working on some project. His eye ball was eaten out. It made a
real impression on me as I had done just a little casual epoxy work on some
small canoe projects before then with no safety gear at all. I put off
buying the plans for a little clunker of a trim rand that was wood/epoxy
construction after reading the report.
Interestingly, I have never heard or read of a similar accident and wonder
looking back on it if the report was accurate about the epoxy being the
cause of the damage? I suppose that now it is possible to dive into data
on the Net and attempt to confirm or deny?? Anyone have any knowledge for
or against?
Regards, Gronicle
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
more or less accidentally ran into an accident report write up while in the
USAF. The incident in question was a report, including graphic photos, of
an airman who had splashed some liquid epoxy resin into one of his eyes
while working on some project. His eye ball was eaten out. It made a
real impression on me as I had done just a little casual epoxy work on some
small canoe projects before then with no safety gear at all. I put off
buying the plans for a little clunker of a trim rand that was wood/epoxy
construction after reading the report.
Interestingly, I have never heard or read of a similar accident and wonder
looking back on it if the report was accurate about the epoxy being the
cause of the damage? I suppose that now it is possible to dive into data
on the Net and attempt to confirm or deny?? Anyone have any knowledge for
or against?
Regards, Gronicle
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Just because I like to play Devil's Advocate:
My barber quit using talc on his patrons because, he said, talc and asbestos come from the same mineral deposits. Unless you buy the REALLY expensive talc, what you get is a mixture. Asbestos is benign, unless you breath it in. It will not jump out of the roof tiles nor down from the water pipes, but dusting the baby's bottom is probably a no-no. Grinding roof tiles to shape in the factory definitely requires a mask.
So: put on your mask before you dust your hands.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
My barber quit using talc on his patrons because, he said, talc and asbestos come from the same mineral deposits. Unless you buy the REALLY expensive talc, what you get is a mixture. Asbestos is benign, unless you breath it in. It will not jump out of the roof tiles nor down from the water pipes, but dusting the baby's bottom is probably a no-no. Grinding roof tiles to shape in the factory definitely requires a mask.
So: put on your mask before you dust your hands.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Slimak
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 10:30 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re:Shop safety: using powder and gloves ...
I like the powder idea and will try that. No one has mentioned vinyl gloves. When vinyl gloves came out due to allergies to latex I tried them and found them much better than latex. Latex would balloon out at the finget tips from the epoxy and then rip when using your fingers as a smoothing tool on fillets. While vinyl will eventually rip, I found they lasted much longer than latex. I tried nitrile, and found they ripped easily, going through three times as many gloves as with vinyl. Vinyl is a lot cheaper than nitrile, waching for sales I have bought them for as little as $3.95 per hundred at Menards.
Bob Slimak
---------------------------------
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
For a couple years now I have been using nitrile gloves bought on
EBay, by the case of 1000 each. They can be had for as low as $0.06
each delivered. Vinyl even cheaper. Search ebay using the search
terms '1000 gloves'. I really appreciate not getting epoxy on my
skin anymore, and will never go back to bare handed epoxy work. I
still get epoxy on my clothes, and have ruined countless jeans shoes
and shirts.
EBay, by the case of 1000 each. They can be had for as low as $0.06
each delivered. Vinyl even cheaper. Search ebay using the search
terms '1000 gloves'. I really appreciate not getting epoxy on my
skin anymore, and will never go back to bare handed epoxy work. I
still get epoxy on my clothes, and have ruined countless jeans shoes
and shirts.
I like the powder idea and will try that. No one has mentioned vinyl gloves. When vinyl gloves came out due to allergies to latex I tried them and found them much better than latex. Latex would balloon out at the finget tips from the epoxy and then rip when using your fingers as a smoothing tool on fillets. While vinyl will eventually rip, I found they lasted much longer than latex. I tried nitrile, and found they ripped easily, going through three times as many gloves as with vinyl. Vinyl is a lot cheaper than nitrile, waching for sales I have bought them for as little as $3.95 per hundred at Menards.
Bob Slimak
---------------------------------
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bob Slimak
---------------------------------
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Put good latex gloves on and keep it offRegarding hand protection for epoxy work:
> your skin! I've had good luck using nitrile
> gloves when using epoxy but some of the
> solvents will attack them.
Before I get started I always bury my hands in a bucket of talc powder and rub
it into my skin as thoroughly as possible, then I slip on the cheapest
plastic gloves I can find. Not only do the gloves slip on effortlessly
because of the powder, but the powder also acts as a secondary barrier
against the glue ...
All gloves will eventually get stuck or caught on something and torn, possibly
allowing the epoxy to touch your skin. This happens more frequently with the
cheap thin plastic gloves I'm recommending than more durable gloves of
course, but it happens to all gloves sooner or later. When it does I just
take them off, powder my hands thoroughly again, then put on a new pair.
When I'm done epoxying I remove the gloves and my hands have no epoxy on them.
Even if it tries to stick when one of the gloves gets torn, it cannot because
I have rubbed the talc into my skin. The epoxy sticks to the talc instead of
to my skin, leaving my hands totally clean and epoxy free. Then I simply
wash off the talc with soap and water and my hands are in excellent
condition -- as if I had never done any epoxy work at all.
This method is a lot cheaper than using nitrile or any other more expensive
gloves when epoxying. Nitrile is good for blocking many solvents of course,
so they are certainly appropriate when cleaning up. But for the epoxy work
itself my current system beats all others I have ever tried -- and over the
years I have tried nearly every system I ever read about.
Then again, if you have a better system I'll give it a try. I'm always
looking for better ways to do things ... :)
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
I started helping my Dad build boats in 1969 and we
were useing the tired and true Polyester. We didn't
use gloves or much safety other then a respirator with
the carbon filter when we were working in tight
places.
I learned fast that you use a respirator any time you
are gringing or working resin. Also seeing how I wear
glasses and seeing all the resin droplets on my
glasses its a VERY GOOD IDEA to use safety glasses
when you are working with resin or grinding.
I went to work at Uniflite in Bellingham Wa as a resin
rat and started working with gloves and all the safety
equipment... It changed my view of how to do things
and keep yourself healthy.
I found out wood dust is not good for you, I took the
time to read a few things about wood and cancer in a
boat shop setting. Kind of scary! I know some are
thinking "Oh B.S. never happen to me." Wrong if you
are a smoker it's even worse.
It's far better to play it safe then to end up barred
from your hobby by your body! Be it from it reacting
to what you are working with or worse!
It come down to a few simple things, if you are making
dust put the resprator on before you start. When you
are working resin no matter what kind put the
respirator on, put the safety glasses on, and put good
latex gloves on and keep it off your skin!
I've had good luck useing nitrile gloves when useing
epoxy but some of the solvents will attack them. I
have seen some two ply glove that are latex and
nitrile at Harbor Freight I know they worked well when
I was working on an engine in my truck.
Safety is cheap when you look at what it can cost you
in long term, health wise!
Blessings All
Krissie
--- Alex Heywood <alex.heywood@...> wrote:
Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433
were useing the tired and true Polyester. We didn't
use gloves or much safety other then a respirator with
the carbon filter when we were working in tight
places.
I learned fast that you use a respirator any time you
are gringing or working resin. Also seeing how I wear
glasses and seeing all the resin droplets on my
glasses its a VERY GOOD IDEA to use safety glasses
when you are working with resin or grinding.
I went to work at Uniflite in Bellingham Wa as a resin
rat and started working with gloves and all the safety
equipment... It changed my view of how to do things
and keep yourself healthy.
I found out wood dust is not good for you, I took the
time to read a few things about wood and cancer in a
boat shop setting. Kind of scary! I know some are
thinking "Oh B.S. never happen to me." Wrong if you
are a smoker it's even worse.
It's far better to play it safe then to end up barred
from your hobby by your body! Be it from it reacting
to what you are working with or worse!
It come down to a few simple things, if you are making
dust put the resprator on before you start. When you
are working resin no matter what kind put the
respirator on, put the safety glasses on, and put good
latex gloves on and keep it off your skin!
I've had good luck useing nitrile gloves when useing
epoxy but some of the solvents will attack them. I
have seen some two ply glove that are latex and
nitrile at Harbor Freight I know they worked well when
I was working on an engine in my truck.
Safety is cheap when you look at what it can cost you
in long term, health wise!
Blessings All
Krissie
--- Alex Heywood <alex.heywood@...> wrote:
> Here in the U.K. I have used gallons of West Epoxy____________________________________________________________________________________
> building one Wharram and rebuilding a old one.
> This has made my hands very sensative to epoxy, just
> getting near it would make my fingers itch
> and get sore, I was thinking my boat building days
> were over but I was told about a french epoxy
> SICOMIN with low Toxicity also it does not
> blush---or it has not upto now.
> and it seems to be less expensive
>
>
> signed ex sore fingers alex
>
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Here in the U.K. I have used gallons of West Epoxy building one Wharram and rebuilding a old one.
This has made my hands very sensative to epoxy, just getting near it would make my fingers itch
and get sore, I was thinking my boat building days were over but I was told about a french epoxy
SICOMIN with low Toxicity also it does not blush---or it has not upto now.
and it seems to be less expensive
signed ex sore fingers alex
This has made my hands very sensative to epoxy, just getting near it would make my fingers itch
and get sore, I was thinking my boat building days were over but I was told about a french epoxy
SICOMIN with low Toxicity also it does not blush---or it has not upto now.
and it seems to be less expensive
signed ex sore fingers alex
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Crockett
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 8:21 PM
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [bolger] FORMER WEST EPOXY USERS
Or, as the RAKA guy claims, it wasn't blush at all but some other sort
of problem. He figures I didn't get the mix right or something, but that
doesn't explain why the underneath part seemed to cure right enough,
just the top 1/16" was a mess.
Patrick
Patrick Crockett wrote:
> I started with RAKA on my Windsprint and had blush problems beyond all
> comprehension. I scrubbed with Scotchbrite and everything else I could
> think of, until I had very sore shoulders. Scraping with broken glass
> might have helped, but I didn't read about that soon enough. I had big
> sections of fiberglass peeling off the bottom for three or four years.
> Finally quit trying to scrape off barnacles when I come back from a
> couple weeks at the coast. (In fairness, it was very humid when I was
> building.)
>
> I switched to System 3 and that seemed to be OK. I used MAS for my CLC
> kayaks, and other projects and was extremely happy. No blush problems at
> all. For a school boat-building project I recently tried RAKA again and
> haven't had a problem with it. Either they changed their formulation or
> humidity hasn't been as high lately.
>
> Patrick
>
>> Charles E. Campbell wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Here's something to check out. I haven't used it though, so I can't say anything about it from experience.
>>>http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html
>>> Charles Campbell
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: Bill Godwin
>>> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>>> Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 4:31 AM
>>> Subject: [bolger] FORMER WEST EPOXY USERS
>>>
>>>
>>> Mornin',
>>> Hopefully my sneakeasy plans will be here today and so the
>>> journey begins. My only pre-thought is about the extensive epoxy
>>> use. Now I've replaced the bow section (the hole was large enough to
>>> crawl thru) of a 53' trawler and installed a bow thruster in the
>>> process all using west epoxy. Probably used 30+ gallons of the stuff
>>> since 1990 on various projects of one kind or another. Now that I'm
>>> hopefully a little smarter and not as fool hardy with my money, West
>>> Epoxy IS expensive. The question: Is there any former west epoxy
>>> users out there that have switched to a less expensive epoxy(Raka,
>>> System Three, etc.....) and still have the same excellent results that
>>> west gives? I've already searched the epoxy question before and it
>>> tends to be vague. I'm looking for cost, ease of use, quality of
>>> product.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Bill
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