Re: [bolger] Re: No Fiberglass
Acceptable to me, of course. "Acceptable" is a subjective word. The problem with glass/epoxy is that you have to fill the grain of the cloth. The best way I've found to do that is to roll on a couple or three coats of epoxy and microballoons (or some other filler). This leaves a very rough finish. You can sand it with a long board or with a variety of power sanders (all of which can leave dips and hollws). Lots of dust and elbow grease. At some point you obtain a reasonably smooth surface and you can start painting. With MDO, you start with a fairly smooth surface and the sanding and filling process is greatly reduced.
You can produce a very fine finish on either material, but my experience is that you get there quicker and easier with MDO.
JohnT
You can produce a very fine finish on either material, but my experience is that you get there quicker and easier with MDO.
JohnT
----- Original Message -----
From: David Ryan
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 7:54 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: No Fiberglass
On Jun 19, 2007, at 7:25 PM, John and Kathy Trussell wrote:
> acceptable finish.
Acceptable to whom?
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On Jun 19, 2007, at 7:25 PM, John and Kathy Trussell wrote:
> acceptable finish.Acceptable to whom?
Keep us posted on the results. I "designed", and I use the term loosely since there are no formal plans, a 26' outboard powered powerboat whose hull I could build in a weekend, basically using housebuilding techniques with bolts and boat nails. That's not counting fiberglass sheathing in the time line, but I thought I'd go with a rough workboat like poyester/fiberglass mat finish that would probably take another weekend. Cuddy/pilothouse included. A couple more weekends to install steering, tanks, and electrical and paint and you'd have a hell of a boat in a month of free time. Might not be the prettiest boat in the harbor, but my experience is (and I do have some, believe it or not), that the finish work is what kills you time wise.
Ira
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Ira
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I will not argue over the cost of MDO v epoxy/glass over cheap plywood. However, MDO rwquires a fraction of the filling and sanding which epoxy/glass requires to get an acceptable finish. Moreover, the Olypus MDO I used had no voids and no footballs. Having seen footballs 'print' through fiberglass and having seen voids bubble on a finished boat, I think MDO is a superior way to go.
JohnT
JohnT
----- Original Message -----
From: David Ryan
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 11:22 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: No Fiberglass
Well I priced MDO vs AC/epoxy/glass and it's pretty much even steven,
save working with the glass.
I know that AC/epoxy/glass is utterly bullet-proof. Until her demise,
the LSME lived outside, on the water 365, with no deterioration to
the finish save the long slow dulling of the paint. That's seven
years of sun, freeze/thaw, and general wear and tear.
So, since it's about the same to do MDO as it is to do AC/epoxy/
glass, I'm thinking that's the way this boat will get built after
all. I have a few ideas on how to make the glass work faster and
easier, and maybe even better.
Haven't quite reached the tipping point, but I'm close. Says my wife,
"If this is about blowing off steam, you'd squander more on a trip to
Vegas."
More soon.
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Well I priced MDO vs AC/epoxy/glass and it's pretty much even steven,
save working with the glass.
I know that AC/epoxy/glass is utterly bullet-proof. Until her demise,
the LSME lived outside, on the water 365, with no deterioration to
the finish save the long slow dulling of the paint. That's seven
years of sun, freeze/thaw, and general wear and tear.
So, since it's about the same to do MDO as it is to do AC/epoxy/
glass, I'm thinking that's the way this boat will get built after
all. I have a few ideas on how to make the glass work faster and
easier, and maybe even better.
Haven't quite reached the tipping point, but I'm close. Says my wife,
"If this is about blowing off steam, you'd squander more on a trip to
Vegas."
More soon.
save working with the glass.
I know that AC/epoxy/glass is utterly bullet-proof. Until her demise,
the LSME lived outside, on the water 365, with no deterioration to
the finish save the long slow dulling of the paint. That's seven
years of sun, freeze/thaw, and general wear and tear.
So, since it's about the same to do MDO as it is to do AC/epoxy/
glass, I'm thinking that's the way this boat will get built after
all. I have a few ideas on how to make the glass work faster and
easier, and maybe even better.
Haven't quite reached the tipping point, but I'm close. Says my wife,
"If this is about blowing off steam, you'd squander more on a trip to
Vegas."
More soon.
> Hmmm a 40 foot boat in 7 to 10 days...Let's see:
A 40 foot boat
Ten days
40 people working on it full time
Hey, why not? :)
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
Here are a couple of links to MDO makers in the NW.
http://www.olypanel.com/sign_making/index.php
The worlds largest maker of MDO click on the blue product names for
more info.
http://www.kplyinc.com/royal.htm
Kply makes 5/16" though sight is thin on info.
Hyway dep and citys use a lot of 5/8 and 3/4 but a lot of 3'8 and 1/2
is used everywhere else even homes to get a smouth look on sofets and
post wraps.
Jon
http://www.olypanel.com/sign_making/index.php
The worlds largest maker of MDO click on the blue product names for
more info.
http://www.kplyinc.com/royal.htm
Kply makes 5/16" though sight is thin on info.
Hyway dep and citys use a lot of 5/8 and 3/4 but a lot of 3'8 and 1/2
is used everywhere else even homes to get a smouth look on sofets and
post wraps.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, John Bell <smallboatdesigner@> wrote:
> >
> > MDO works fine. I would not even tape the edges like I did on my
MDO
> > AF-4 chines. Getting the tape to stay stuck on the solid wood
external
> > chine log wasn't worth the effort. Just remember, the thinnest
MDO
> > available is 3/8" (~9mm). Stick to bigger heavier designs and
you'll be
> > just fine.
>
> Even the 3/8" isn't very easy to find. Most signage is 5/8" and that
> is what the best MDO is used for.
>
> Last fall I was looking into some alternatives for building a boat
> using only water reduceable adhesives and coatings. Seems we decided
> it would work well for a trailer boat while the best ones for
> waterproofness and abrasiveness resistance were quite costly.
>
> One fellow claimed he had a method that also prevented checking in
fir
> plywood, using a special sealer/primer that would take additives
like
> microballoons and glass micro fibers. You just roll it on fill, and
paint.
>
> If you type UMA into the search function here it will got to the
> thread, and links to the products.
>
> Nels
>
You know I was thinking the same thing John! If it was
done right you could get all of them to stack inside
each other! Oh what about a cabin???? Why not make a
poly tarp cabin! That way you can fold it up when you
want to sail with the top down. (Smile)
Hmmm a 40 foot boat in 7 to 10 days.... That's what I
call very quick and very dirty! I just hope it floats
and no one get's hurt when they go sailing!
Blessings Kriss
--- John Bell <smallboatdesigner@...>
wrote:
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
done right you could get all of them to stack inside
each other! Oh what about a cabin???? Why not make a
poly tarp cabin! That way you can fold it up when you
want to sail with the top down. (Smile)
Hmmm a 40 foot boat in 7 to 10 days.... That's what I
call very quick and very dirty! I just hope it floats
and no one get's hurt when they go sailing!
Blessings Kriss
--- John Bell <smallboatdesigner@...>
wrote:
> The Infinite Modular Sharpie returns!____________________________________________________________________________________
>
>
> David Ryan wrote:
> > On Jun 18, 2007, at 6:14 PM, Bruce Hallman wrote:
> >
> >
> >> 1) What will fit in your shop?
> >>
> >
> > What shop?
> >
> >> 2) What will fit on your trailer?
> >>
> >
> > What trailer?
> >
> >> 3) Motor or sail?
> >>
> >
> > Sail. Duh.
> >
> > I'm not going to tell you all what I'm considering
> doing because what
> > I'm considering doing is considered heresy.
> >
> > I don't care. I'm sure it will more or less work
> after a fashion, and
> > I haven't done anything genuinely stupid or
> reckless in a couple of
> > years.
> >
> > I've rounded up a couple of <strike>victims</i>
> volunteers to help me
> > build it. If I don't have to glass the damn thing,
> I think we can
> > have hull in the water in 7-10 days. She'll be
> just shy of 40 feet,
> > which, for anyone who know the way I think, is a
> clue about what I'm
> > up to.
> >
> > Don't try and talk me out of it.
> >
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
Ahhh David you forgot to say if you were looking at a
power boat or a sail boat? Or maybe a motorsailer?
Blessings Krissie
--- David Ryan <david@...> wrote:
Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.
http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/
power boat or a sail boat? Or maybe a motorsailer?
Blessings Krissie
--- David Ryan <david@...> wrote:
> FBBB,____________________________________________________________________________________
>
> I've got some time on my hand and thought I might
> build myself a
> largish boat:
>
> The spec is relatively simple. I want to build a
> boat that we can
> overnight/weekend on as quickly and as cheaply as
> possible. To that
> end I'm looking into building an unsheathed boat. I
> know this won't
> work with fir plywood. Although my unsheathed Teal
> is still water-
> tight, it checks within weeks of being painted. I
> don't like that.
>
> How about MDO? Tape the seams, feather the edges,
> paint and go sailing?
>
> I look forward to the groups' collective wisdom.
>
> YIBB,
> David
>
Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.
http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, John Bell <smallboatdesigner@...> wrote:
NELS
>WHALEWATCHER - HOO HA!
> The Infinite Modular Sharpie returns!
>
NELS
The Infinite Modular Sharpie returns!
David Ryan wrote:
David Ryan wrote:
> On Jun 18, 2007, at 6:14 PM, Bruce Hallman wrote:
>
>
>> 1) What will fit in your shop?
>>
>
> What shop?
>
>> 2) What will fit on your trailer?
>>
>
> What trailer?
>
>> 3) Motor or sail?
>>
>
> Sail. Duh.
>
> I'm not going to tell you all what I'm considering doing because what
> I'm considering doing is considered heresy.
>
> I don't care. I'm sure it will more or less work after a fashion, and
> I haven't done anything genuinely stupid or reckless in a couple of
> years.
>
> I've rounded up a couple of <strike>victims</i> volunteers to help me
> build it. If I don't have to glass the damn thing, I think we can
> have hull in the water in 7-10 days. She'll be just shy of 40 feet,
> which, for anyone who know the way I think, is a clue about what I'm
> up to.
>
> Don't try and talk me out of it.
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
On Jun 18, 2007, at 6:14 PM, Bruce Hallman wrote:
I'm not going to tell you all what I'm considering doing because what
I'm considering doing is considered heresy.
I don't care. I'm sure it will more or less work after a fashion, and
I haven't done anything genuinely stupid or reckless in a couple of
years.
I've rounded up a couple of <strike>victims</i> volunteers to help me
build it. If I don't have to glass the damn thing, I think we can
have hull in the water in 7-10 days. She'll be just shy of 40 feet,
which, for anyone who know the way I think, is a clue about what I'm
up to.
Don't try and talk me out of it.
> 1) What will fit in your shop?What shop?
> 2) What will fit on your trailer?What trailer?
> 3) Motor or sail?Sail. Duh.
I'm not going to tell you all what I'm considering doing because what
I'm considering doing is considered heresy.
I don't care. I'm sure it will more or less work after a fashion, and
I haven't done anything genuinely stupid or reckless in a couple of
years.
I've rounded up a couple of <strike>victims</i> volunteers to help me
build it. If I don't have to glass the damn thing, I think we can
have hull in the water in 7-10 days. She'll be just shy of 40 feet,
which, for anyone who know the way I think, is a clue about what I'm
up to.
Don't try and talk me out of it.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, John Bell <smallboatdesigner@...> wrote:
is what the best MDO is used for.
Last fall I was looking into some alternatives for building a boat
using only water reduceable adhesives and coatings. Seems we decided
it would work well for a trailer boat while the best ones for
waterproofness and abrasiveness resistance were quite costly.
One fellow claimed he had a method that also prevented checking in fir
plywood, using a special sealer/primer that would take additives like
microballoons and glass micro fibers. You just roll it on fill, and paint.
If you type UMA into the search function here it will got to the
thread, and links to the products.
Nels
>Even the 3/8" isn't very easy to find. Most signage is 5/8" and that
> MDO works fine. I would not even tape the edges like I did on my MDO
> AF-4 chines. Getting the tape to stay stuck on the solid wood external
> chine log wasn't worth the effort. Just remember, the thinnest MDO
> available is 3/8" (~9mm). Stick to bigger heavier designs and you'll be
> just fine.
is what the best MDO is used for.
Last fall I was looking into some alternatives for building a boat
using only water reduceable adhesives and coatings. Seems we decided
it would work well for a trailer boat while the best ones for
waterproofness and abrasiveness resistance were quite costly.
One fellow claimed he had a method that also prevented checking in fir
plywood, using a special sealer/primer that would take additives like
microballoons and glass micro fibers. You just roll it on fill, and paint.
If you type UMA into the search function here it will got to the
thread, and links to the products.
Nels
MDO works fine. I would not even tape the edges like I did on my MDO
AF-4 chines. Getting the tape to stay stuck on the solid wood external
chine log wasn't worth the effort. Just remember, the thinnest MDO
available is 3/8" (~9mm). Stick to bigger heavier designs and you'll be
just fine.
The original birdwatcher would be ideal for both the material and your
purposes, if not exactly a quick and dirty build.
Harry James wrote:
AF-4 chines. Getting the tape to stay stuck on the solid wood external
chine log wasn't worth the effort. Just remember, the thinnest MDO
available is 3/8" (~9mm). Stick to bigger heavier designs and you'll be
just fine.
The original birdwatcher would be ideal for both the material and your
purposes, if not exactly a quick and dirty build.
Harry James wrote:
> I have always thought that fiberglassing or epoxying MDO was a waste of
> time except for abrasion resistance on the bottom. Sounds like a good
> plan to me.
>
> HJ
>
> David Ryan wrote:
>
>> FBBB,
>>
>> I've got some time on my hand and thought I might build myself a
>> largish boat:
>>
>> The spec is relatively simple. I want to build a boat that we can
>> overnight/weekend on as quickly and as cheaply as possible. To that
>> end I'm looking into building an unsheathed boat. I know this won't
>> work with fir plywood. Although my unsheathed Teal is still water-
>> tight, it checks within weeks of being painted. I don't like that.
>>
>> How about MDO? Tape the seams, feather the edges, paint and go sailing?
>>
>> I look forward to the groups' collective wisdom.
>>
>> YIBB,
>> David
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
I have always thought that fiberglassing or epoxying MDO was a waste of
time except for abrasion resistance on the bottom. Sounds like a good
plan to me.
HJ
David Ryan wrote:
time except for abrasion resistance on the bottom. Sounds like a good
plan to me.
HJ
David Ryan wrote:
> FBBB,
>
> I've got some time on my hand and thought I might build myself a
> largish boat:
>
> The spec is relatively simple. I want to build a boat that we can
> overnight/weekend on as quickly and as cheaply as possible. To that
> end I'm looking into building an unsheathed boat. I know this won't
> work with fir plywood. Although my unsheathed Teal is still water-
> tight, it checks within weeks of being painted. I don't like that.
>
> How about MDO? Tape the seams, feather the edges, paint and go sailing?
>
> I look forward to the groups' collective wisdom.
>
> YIBB,
> David
>
>
>
>
I built a boat from MDO two years ago--stitch and glue--latex paint--no epoxy covering. The boat lives on a triler, but occassionally accumulates rainwater in the cockpit. So far, no signs of any deterioration.
I also have a couple of scraps of MDO which have been outside for 3 years with no signs of deterioration (this in central SC--not very cold, but a lot of heat, rain, and sunshine.
Conclusion: For a dry sailed boat, MDO doesn't require any epxy coating. I can't comment on a boat that is kept in the water. Non scientific observation, but based on actual experience rather than speculation and conjecture.
JohnT
I also have a couple of scraps of MDO which have been outside for 3 years with no signs of deterioration (this in central SC--not very cold, but a lot of heat, rain, and sunshine.
Conclusion: For a dry sailed boat, MDO doesn't require any epxy coating. I can't comment on a boat that is kept in the water. Non scientific observation, but based on actual experience rather than speculation and conjecture.
JohnT
----- Original Message -----
From: Jon & Wanda(Tink)
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 7:38 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: No Fiberglass
My personal fealing is if a boat is going to spend any time in the
water and is made of any kind of ply it should be glassed on the
outside and sealed on the inside with epoxy to make it last even MDO.
MDO is great stuff but still plywood (better then marine cheaper then
ABX) but the face is not water proof it is made to soak in the epoxy
or paint that is put on it. 24 sheets on just my hull and more on the
rest of the build.
Jon
> David Ryan wrote:
> > FBBB,
> >
> > I've got some time on my hand and thought I might build myself a
> > largish boat:
> >
> > The spec is relatively simple. I want to build a boat that we
can
> > overnight/weekend on as quickly and as cheaply as possible. To
that
> > end I'm looking into building an unsheathed boat. I know this
won't
> > work with fir plywood. Although my unsheathed Teal is still water-
> > tight, it checks within weeks of being painted. I don't like that.
> >
> > How about MDO? Tape the seams, feather the edges, paint and go
sailing?
> >
> > I look forward to the groups' collective wisdom.
> >
> > YIBB,
> > David
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
My personal fealing is if a boat is going to spend any time in the
water and is made of any kind of ply it should be glassed on the
outside and sealed on the inside with epoxy to make it last even MDO.
MDO is great stuff but still plywood (better then marine cheaper then
ABX) but the face is not water proof it is made to soak in the epoxy
or paint that is put on it. 24 sheets on just my hull and more on the
rest of the build.
Jon
water and is made of any kind of ply it should be glassed on the
outside and sealed on the inside with epoxy to make it last even MDO.
MDO is great stuff but still plywood (better then marine cheaper then
ABX) but the face is not water proof it is made to soak in the epoxy
or paint that is put on it. 24 sheets on just my hull and more on the
rest of the build.
Jon
> David Ryan wrote:can
> > FBBB,
> >
> > I've got some time on my hand and thought I might build myself a
> > largish boat:
> >
> > The spec is relatively simple. I want to build a boat that we
> > overnight/weekend on as quickly and as cheaply as possible. Tothat
> > end I'm looking into building an unsheathed boat. I know thiswon't
> > work with fir plywood. Although my unsheathed Teal is still water-sailing?
> > tight, it checks within weeks of being painted. I don't like that.
> >
> > How about MDO? Tape the seams, feather the edges, paint and go
> >
> > I look forward to the groups' collective wisdom.
> >
> > YIBB,
> > David
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> I would consider - ...A few key questions:
1) What will fit in your shop?
2) What will fit on your trailer?
3) Motor or sail?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
Porch paint to finish. On the downside, finding 1/4" is not easy.
The cheapest, and easiest built boats of the size you might require
are now drawn by Jim Michalak - without a doubt. And you get excellent
service from him as well - including any questions you may have
e-mailed to him.
He also includes dead simple instructions on sewing your own sails.
I would consider - in order of preference - if I was going to do what
your are doing.
The Jukebox series.
Picara
Viola series
Jewelbox series
These are all flat-bottomed, solid chined glue and nail together
sharpies. Jukebox is my favorite as it was so ugly even Bolger warned
him the plans would never sell:-)
If just the two of you I would also consider Philsboat, Scram and the
IMB. They are smaller and lighter Birwathcer style and are also S&G
multichine hulled. Which may be quicker if you are handy with that.
Nels
> Remember, MDO plywood *is* sheathed, at the factory with resinI would agree and also add - you only need G1S if an enclosed hull.
> impregnated paper, (versus epoxy in cloth in your shop). MDO is
> extremely durable.
Porch paint to finish. On the downside, finding 1/4" is not easy.
The cheapest, and easiest built boats of the size you might require
are now drawn by Jim Michalak - without a doubt. And you get excellent
service from him as well - including any questions you may have
e-mailed to him.
He also includes dead simple instructions on sewing your own sails.
I would consider - in order of preference - if I was going to do what
your are doing.
The Jukebox series.
Picara
Viola series
Jewelbox series
These are all flat-bottomed, solid chined glue and nail together
sharpies. Jukebox is my favorite as it was so ugly even Bolger warned
him the plans would never sell:-)
If just the two of you I would also consider Philsboat, Scram and the
IMB. They are smaller and lighter Birwathcer style and are also S&G
multichine hulled. Which may be quicker if you are handy with that.
Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, David Ryan <david@...> wrote:
David, this is an excellent choice,a bit more expensive but a great
time saver. As Bruce mentioned, it is already sheathed at the factory.
Pay attention to properly sealing all exposed end grain, consider
usng a high build sealer/primer for the hull panels and you'll be on
the water in no time.....or at least before the I-60 plans arrive ;-
) ...and you will have a handsome looking finish to boot!
Another note, do try to get hold of one of the better grades of MDO
panels and stay away from the junk that looks like it has kraft paper
glued onto it.
So, no more dilly-dally about the pro's and con's Captain Ryan,MDO it
is and the summer will soon be upon us in spades!Start sawing :-D
Keep a good thought!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, who is begining to believe that building the hull and
cabin on WINDERMERE represented but 1/10 of the way through with the
interior representing 8/10 of the work and a wee bit left over for
fussy exterior trim and paint...just back from sanding fillets inside
the kitchen cupboards..oh ya,my girlfriend thinks I'm little
nuts...buy most of you already know that :-D
>sailing?
> FBBB,
>
>> How about MDO? Tape the seams, feather the edges, paint and go
>(Quick Bruce, let's nip this one in the butt before it takes off :-))
> I look forward to the groups' collective wisdom.
>
> YIBB,
> David
David, this is an excellent choice,a bit more expensive but a great
time saver. As Bruce mentioned, it is already sheathed at the factory.
Pay attention to properly sealing all exposed end grain, consider
usng a high build sealer/primer for the hull panels and you'll be on
the water in no time.....or at least before the I-60 plans arrive ;-
) ...and you will have a handsome looking finish to boot!
Another note, do try to get hold of one of the better grades of MDO
panels and stay away from the junk that looks like it has kraft paper
glued onto it.
So, no more dilly-dally about the pro's and con's Captain Ryan,MDO it
is and the summer will soon be upon us in spades!Start sawing :-D
Keep a good thought!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, who is begining to believe that building the hull and
cabin on WINDERMERE represented but 1/10 of the way through with the
interior representing 8/10 of the work and a wee bit left over for
fussy exterior trim and paint...just back from sanding fillets inside
the kitchen cupboards..oh ya,my girlfriend thinks I'm little
nuts...buy most of you already know that :-D
>
On 6/18/07, David Ryan <david@...> wrote:
Remember, MDO plywood *is* sheathed, at the factory with resin
impregnated paper, (versus epoxy in cloth in your shop). MDO is
extremely durable.
Which boat are you considering? For quick and cheap, choose one which
has little detail work. It seems that making the basic hull is only
25% of the work, and the interior fitout, rigging, etc. is what really
takes time.
Consider the 'lesson' of Bolger's Burgundy, which is made cheap by
simplifying everything.
> The spec is relatively simple. I want to build a boat that we canOh no! Another MDO thread <smile>
> overnight/weekend on as quickly and as cheaply as possible.
> How about MDO?
Remember, MDO plywood *is* sheathed, at the factory with resin
impregnated paper, (versus epoxy in cloth in your shop). MDO is
extremely durable.
Which boat are you considering? For quick and cheap, choose one which
has little detail work. It seems that making the basic hull is only
25% of the work, and the interior fitout, rigging, etc. is what really
takes time.
Consider the 'lesson' of Bolger's Burgundy, which is made cheap by
simplifying everything.
FBBB,
I've got some time on my hand and thought I might build myself a
largish boat:
The spec is relatively simple. I want to build a boat that we can
overnight/weekend on as quickly and as cheaply as possible. To that
end I'm looking into building an unsheathed boat. I know this won't
work with fir plywood. Although my unsheathed Teal is still water-
tight, it checks within weeks of being painted. I don't like that.
How about MDO? Tape the seams, feather the edges, paint and go sailing?
I look forward to the groups' collective wisdom.
YIBB,
David
I've got some time on my hand and thought I might build myself a
largish boat:
The spec is relatively simple. I want to build a boat that we can
overnight/weekend on as quickly and as cheaply as possible. To that
end I'm looking into building an unsheathed boat. I know this won't
work with fir plywood. Although my unsheathed Teal is still water-
tight, it checks within weeks of being painted. I don't like that.
How about MDO? Tape the seams, feather the edges, paint and go sailing?
I look forward to the groups' collective wisdom.
YIBB,
David