Re: Old style stip planking
I was reading in one of Bolger's books about his Hope design. It was
being built without glue or fiberglass covering. This was a round bilge
outboard lobster boat type. Very nice shape.
The stip planking was (at the time) considered more valuable than
plywood when it comes to resale value. Bolger also warns of his
experience of a glued mahogany stip boat he was on that sprung a leak
in the stip planking from shrinking and swelling. I don't know if that
boat was glassed or not. The glass may slow down the transfer of water
enough to stall any starting of the plank.
Anyone know what types of hull shape or scantling are more sensitive to
this failure or is it just luck or maybe the builders ability?
thanks,
Russ
being built without glue or fiberglass covering. This was a round bilge
outboard lobster boat type. Very nice shape.
The stip planking was (at the time) considered more valuable than
plywood when it comes to resale value. Bolger also warns of his
experience of a glued mahogany stip boat he was on that sprung a leak
in the stip planking from shrinking and swelling. I don't know if that
boat was glassed or not. The glass may slow down the transfer of water
enough to stall any starting of the plank.
Anyone know what types of hull shape or scantling are more sensitive to
this failure or is it just luck or maybe the builders ability?
thanks,
Russ
Hi all
I just up loaded some sailing photos to my "18' sailing dory" album
in the photos section. The Ipswich Bay design is a strip planked
hull glued and fastened with aluminum ring nails, then fiberglassed
over on the out side. She could also be built using traditional
strip method.
I got a look at a locally built wood strip boat from the 50's-60's
built using nails and calking between strips, no glue. neat boat,
but derilict from neglect.
Dan
I just up loaded some sailing photos to my "18' sailing dory" album
in the photos section. The Ipswich Bay design is a strip planked
hull glued and fastened with aluminum ring nails, then fiberglassed
over on the out side. She could also be built using traditional
strip method.
I got a look at a locally built wood strip boat from the 50's-60's
built using nails and calking between strips, no glue. neat boat,
but derilict from neglect.
Dan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "gilberj55" <gilberj55@...> wrote:
>
> there are several neat things about strip planking. The planking
is
> narrow so that the swelling of each strip is very small, and this
in
> turn places relativley little strain in whatever bedding or
adhesive is
> used between.
> I owned a strip planked 30 foot sailboat for about a dozen years.
The
> planking was fastened using glue ( I think it may have been UF
109) and
> copper ring nails There was never any problem with the hull. It
stayed
> fair and smooth and tight and the seams remained invisible for all
the
> years I owned the boat, often being mistaken for fiber glass.
Strip
> building is not the choice of most really experienced builders, or
> professionals. Its too labor intensive and slow. It is very good
though
> for someone building single handed and for skilled amateurs
because
> each piece of wood is easier to handle.
> because the skin is built to shape less framing is required, where
as
> with carvel planking the frame creates the shape.
> building with wood has of course been around for a long time. With
> reasonable care it will last a very long time. Of the three wooden
> sailboats I have owned the youngest is 37 years old and still
sound
> today. The other two are 50 and 59 respectively, and as good today
as
> when I owned them. Yes reasonable care with a wooden boat is
somewhat
> more than more modern technologies but... a large part of
maintenance
> is common to all boats....engine, rigging, sails, electrics,
navigation
> instruments, cooking cleaning, storage, winter, haulouts etc.
> JG
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "rljssn" <rljssn@> wrote:
> >
> > I am curious what the latest thinking is on strip planking. For
> > instance on a round bilge lobster outboard boat. 1" strips
nailed
> with
> > sealing compound instead of glue in between the strips. The idea
is
> to
> > get around the stresses of plank swelling and breaking the hull.
Was
> > this ever successfully time tested?
> >
> > I understand that glass and epoxy is supposed to drastically
reduce
> the
> > transfer of water in and out of the wood. The pure glued method
works
> > great for kayaks and canoes but I mean heavier craft.
> > thanks for your input.
> >
> > Russ
> >
>
there are several neat things about strip planking. The planking is
narrow so that the swelling of each strip is very small, and this in
turn places relativley little strain in whatever bedding or adhesive is
used between.
I owned a strip planked 30 foot sailboat for about a dozen years. The
planking was fastened using glue ( I think it may have been UF 109) and
copper ring nails There was never any problem with the hull. It stayed
fair and smooth and tight and the seams remained invisible for all the
years I owned the boat, often being mistaken for fiber glass. Strip
building is not the choice of most really experienced builders, or
professionals. Its too labor intensive and slow. It is very good though
for someone building single handed and for skilled amateurs because
each piece of wood is easier to handle.
because the skin is built to shape less framing is required, where as
with carvel planking the frame creates the shape.
building with wood has of course been around for a long time. With
reasonable care it will last a very long time. Of the three wooden
sailboats I have owned the youngest is 37 years old and still sound
today. The other two are 50 and 59 respectively, and as good today as
when I owned them. Yes reasonable care with a wooden boat is somewhat
more than more modern technologies but... a large part of maintenance
is common to all boats....engine, rigging, sails, electrics, navigation
instruments, cooking cleaning, storage, winter, haulouts etc.
JG
narrow so that the swelling of each strip is very small, and this in
turn places relativley little strain in whatever bedding or adhesive is
used between.
I owned a strip planked 30 foot sailboat for about a dozen years. The
planking was fastened using glue ( I think it may have been UF 109) and
copper ring nails There was never any problem with the hull. It stayed
fair and smooth and tight and the seams remained invisible for all the
years I owned the boat, often being mistaken for fiber glass. Strip
building is not the choice of most really experienced builders, or
professionals. Its too labor intensive and slow. It is very good though
for someone building single handed and for skilled amateurs because
each piece of wood is easier to handle.
because the skin is built to shape less framing is required, where as
with carvel planking the frame creates the shape.
building with wood has of course been around for a long time. With
reasonable care it will last a very long time. Of the three wooden
sailboats I have owned the youngest is 37 years old and still sound
today. The other two are 50 and 59 respectively, and as good today as
when I owned them. Yes reasonable care with a wooden boat is somewhat
more than more modern technologies but... a large part of maintenance
is common to all boats....engine, rigging, sails, electrics, navigation
instruments, cooking cleaning, storage, winter, haulouts etc.
JG
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "rljssn" <rljssn@...> wrote:
>
> I am curious what the latest thinking is on strip planking. For
> instance on a round bilge lobster outboard boat. 1" strips nailed
with
> sealing compound instead of glue in between the strips. The idea is
to
> get around the stresses of plank swelling and breaking the hull. Was
> this ever successfully time tested?
>
> I understand that glass and epoxy is supposed to drastically reduce
the
> transfer of water in and out of the wood. The pure glued method works
> great for kayaks and canoes but I mean heavier craft.
> thanks for your input.
>
> Russ
>
Russ, I believe Phil Bolger had a strip-planked boat
built with 5200 between the strips, and swelling
forced some distortion of the hull at the
transom--maybe someone in the group knows more about
that experiment. I have a 31' double-ender with 1.25"
x 1.5" mahogany strips, which was glued, probably with
resourcinol, in the early '60s. Almost all the glue
joints have broken, and when it dries out over the
winter, it has to have seam compound run in to keep it
afloat until it swells. I am thinking of cold-molding
a thin layer of ply over the hull, then glassing that.
Sam
--- rljssn <rljssn@...> wrote:
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built with 5200 between the strips, and swelling
forced some distortion of the hull at the
transom--maybe someone in the group knows more about
that experiment. I have a 31' double-ender with 1.25"
x 1.5" mahogany strips, which was glued, probably with
resourcinol, in the early '60s. Almost all the glue
joints have broken, and when it dries out over the
winter, it has to have seam compound run in to keep it
afloat until it swells. I am thinking of cold-molding
a thin layer of ply over the hull, then glassing that.
Sam
--- rljssn <rljssn@...> wrote:
> I am curious what the latest thinking is on strip____________________________________________________________________________________
> planking. For
> instance on a round bilge lobster outboard boat. 1"
> strips nailed with
> sealing compound instead of glue in between the
> strips. The idea is to
> get around the stresses of plank swelling and
> breaking the hull. Was
> this ever successfully time tested?
>
> I understand that glass and epoxy is supposed to
> drastically reduce the
> transfer of water in and out of the wood. The pure
> glued method works
> great for kayaks and canoes but I mean heavier
> craft.
> thanks for your input.
>
> Russ
>
>
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I am curious what the latest thinking is on strip planking. For
instance on a round bilge lobster outboard boat. 1" strips nailed with
sealing compound instead of glue in between the strips. The idea is to
get around the stresses of plank swelling and breaking the hull. Was
this ever successfully time tested?
I understand that glass and epoxy is supposed to drastically reduce the
transfer of water in and out of the wood. The pure glued method works
great for kayaks and canoes but I mean heavier craft.
thanks for your input.
Russ
instance on a round bilge lobster outboard boat. 1" strips nailed with
sealing compound instead of glue in between the strips. The idea is to
get around the stresses of plank swelling and breaking the hull. Was
this ever successfully time tested?
I understand that glass and epoxy is supposed to drastically reduce the
transfer of water in and out of the wood. The pure glued method works
great for kayaks and canoes but I mean heavier craft.
thanks for your input.
Russ