Re: [bolger] Crappy wood
Here is a web site that deals with some of the sawing and drying questions
under consideration:http://www.woodweb.com/~industry/saw-dry/
Regards, Warren
under consideration:http://www.woodweb.com/~industry/saw-dry/
Regards, Warren
In a message dated 06/23/2000 1:<BR59:<BR38 AM
Eastern Daylight ,welshman@...writes:
The latest WB has an article on chainsaw lumbermaking. There is a product
recommended in that article as being much better than paint.
Best/Step
Eastern Daylight ,welshman@...writes:
> I use a couple of coats of latex on the ends to help hold downHarry,
> end splits. There are several very good products out there for
> this purpose, but I do not know what they are. I would like to
> get my hands on some and will be doing some research on this
> soon. If any body in the group has some recommendations have at
> it.
The latest WB has an article on chainsaw lumbermaking. There is a product
recommended in that article as being much better than paint.
Best/Step
Drying time is related to thickness, width and length, doesn't
matter that much. You can buy moisture meters, I just sort of
guess. You dry before it is planed. A barn is just fine, outside
is OK also. The two most important things are stickering and
coating the ends to slow up splitting.
To sticker properly start with a level base, On the big stack out
back that I have right now, I started out with leveled 4x4's
spaced at around 3.5 ft. This distance is arbitrary on my part it
could be somewhat more I think. Every row that that is stacked
needs to be the same thickness ie start with the long 2x stock.
Then put a thin "sticker" across above whatever you are using for
cross pieces the 4x4's in my case and then lay down the next row.
Keep going until all your wood is stacked. This technique allows
air around all your wood and the weight keeps it all straight
except for the very top rows.
I use a couple of coats of latex on the ends to help hold down
end splits. There are several very good products out there for
this purpose, but I do not know what they are. I would like to
get my hands on some and will be doing some research on this
soon. If any body in the group has some recommendations have at
it.
At some time in the last few years there was an article in
Woodenboat that showed a guy stacking his wood vertically in an X
pattern over a pole, with the wood edge on the pole. With some of
the wood I am dealing with, this probably wouldn't work. But I
would like to experiment, as you don't have to take the whole
pile apart to get the bottom board with this technique.
Hj
Rocwandrer@...wrote:
% Harrywelshman@...
matter that much. You can buy moisture meters, I just sort of
guess. You dry before it is planed. A barn is just fine, outside
is OK also. The two most important things are stickering and
coating the ends to slow up splitting.
To sticker properly start with a level base, On the big stack out
back that I have right now, I started out with leveled 4x4's
spaced at around 3.5 ft. This distance is arbitrary on my part it
could be somewhat more I think. Every row that that is stacked
needs to be the same thickness ie start with the long 2x stock.
Then put a thin "sticker" across above whatever you are using for
cross pieces the 4x4's in my case and then lay down the next row.
Keep going until all your wood is stacked. This technique allows
air around all your wood and the weight keeps it all straight
except for the very top rows.
I use a couple of coats of latex on the ends to help hold down
end splits. There are several very good products out there for
this purpose, but I do not know what they are. I would like to
get my hands on some and will be doing some research on this
soon. If any body in the group has some recommendations have at
it.
At some time in the last few years there was an article in
Woodenboat that showed a guy stacking his wood vertically in an X
pattern over a pole, with the wood edge on the pole. With some of
the wood I am dealing with, this probably wouldn't work. But I
would like to experiment, as you don't have to take the whole
pile apart to get the bottom board with this technique.
Hj
Rocwandrer@...wrote:
>_ _ _ _ _
> Ok, i can wait for it to cure, should it be cut to size and planed before
> drying, or does it matter? For how long should oak and pine dry? what is the
> best environment for drying. after i move it from NH to ME i have a barn to
> dry wood in, is that appropriate, or should it be outside?
>
>
% Harrywelshman@...
Ok, i can wait for it to cure, should it be cut to size and planed before
drying, or does it matter? For how long should oak and pine dry? what is the
best environment for drying. after i move it from NH to ME i have a barn to
dry wood in, is that appropriate, or should it be outside?
Richard
(holding back lots more questions)
drying, or does it matter? For how long should oak and pine dry? what is the
best environment for drying. after i move it from NH to ME i have a barn to
dry wood in, is that appropriate, or should it be outside?
Richard
(holding back lots more questions)
> The latest Woodenboat makes a pretty good case for cutting your
> own out of dead falls. I know that it is a big expense for a
> planer, but I strongly recommend finding a local mill and getting
> rough cut local wood. I doubt that there is anywhere in the lower
> 48 that you could not find somebody with at least a band saw mill
> within 50 miles. I have found small mill owners very cooperative,
> and I have hauled logs that I have gotten from land clearing or
> whatever for milling. The one ingredient that is hardest to come
> by is time for drying. I get around this by either planning way
> ahead, or just acquiring wood and figuring out what I am going to
> do with it later. Something always comes up.
>
> For buying quality wood in the NW, I highly recommend Edensaw in
> Port Townsend WA. There quality is always high, prices very
> competitive, and the service outstanding.
>
> HJ, Juneau
>
The latest Woodenboat makes a pretty good case for cutting your
own out of dead falls. I know that it is a big expense for a
planer, but I strongly recommend finding a local mill and getting
rough cut local wood. I doubt that there is anywhere in the lower
48 that you could not find somebody with at least a band saw mill
within 50 miles. I have found small mill owners very cooperative,
and I have hauled logs that I have gotten from land clearing or
whatever for milling. The one ingredient that is hardest to come
by is time for drying. I get around this by either planning way
ahead, or just acquiring wood and figuring out what I am going to
do with it later. Something always comes up.
For buying quality wood in the NW, I highly recommend Edensaw in
Port Townsend WA. There quality is always high, prices very
competitive, and the service outstanding.
HJ, Juneau
% Harrywelshman@...
own out of dead falls. I know that it is a big expense for a
planer, but I strongly recommend finding a local mill and getting
rough cut local wood. I doubt that there is anywhere in the lower
48 that you could not find somebody with at least a band saw mill
within 50 miles. I have found small mill owners very cooperative,
and I have hauled logs that I have gotten from land clearing or
whatever for milling. The one ingredient that is hardest to come
by is time for drying. I get around this by either planning way
ahead, or just acquiring wood and figuring out what I am going to
do with it later. Something always comes up.
For buying quality wood in the NW, I highly recommend Edensaw in
Port Townsend WA. There quality is always high, prices very
competitive, and the service outstanding.
HJ, Juneau
>_ _ _ _ _
> It's got me thinking about alternatives such as tack and tape. I'd
> love to hear what the rest of you are doing to cope with the low
> quality of building lumber.
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
>
% Harrywelshman@...
With the selection and lengths limited in Texas, I buy 2x6's and 2x8's
and 2x10's and build up what I need with epoxy, fiberglass tape, and
drywall screws (cheap clamps.....)
Bill Derby
David Ryan wrote:
and 2x10's and build up what I need with epoxy, fiberglass tape, and
drywall screws (cheap clamps.....)
Bill Derby
David Ryan wrote:
>
> FBBB --
>
> If I hadn't found the magic 26' 2x10, I don't know what I would have
> done for the longitudinal in the LS Margaret Ellen. The wood around
> here is total crap, I likely would have been making 3 and 4 splices
> to get long enough pieces.
>
> It's got me thinking about alternatives such as tack and tape. I'd
> love to hear what the rest of you are doing to cope with the low
> quality of building lumber.
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
> CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
> 134 W.26th St. 12th Floor
> New York, NY 10001
> (212) 247-0296
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bolger rules:
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
David ... look for a building salvage store in your area... I get a lot of
dimensional lumber from a local salvage person here. ( for furniture that I
build) you will need to have some one run it though a surface planer to
clean it up...I have been amazed at the beauty of some of the pieces that I
have found ( walnut, and white oak.especially...... and my neighbor has
some elm from a old barn) ( P.S) I have seen barn beams here in Indiana that
were 6X12 30 feet long and made out of spruce ( It has been a few years
though )
dimensional lumber from a local salvage person here. ( for furniture that I
build) you will need to have some one run it though a surface planer to
clean it up...I have been amazed at the beauty of some of the pieces that I
have found ( walnut, and white oak.especially...... and my neighbor has
some elm from a old barn) ( P.S) I have seen barn beams here in Indiana that
were 6X12 30 feet long and made out of spruce ( It has been a few years
though )
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Ryan" <david@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 8:48 PM
Subject: [bolger] Crappy wood
> FBBB --
>
> If I hadn't found the magic 26' 2x10, I don't know what I would have
> done for the longitudinal in the LS Margaret Ellen. The wood around
> here is total crap, I likely would have been making 3 and 4 splices
> to get long enough pieces.
>
> It's got me thinking about alternatives such as tack and tape. I'd
> love to hear what the rest of you are doing to cope with the low
> quality of building lumber.
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
>
> CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
> 134 W.26th St. 12th Floor
> New York, NY 10001
> (212) 247-0296
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> SALESFORCE.COM MAKES SOFTWARE OBSOLETE
> Secure, online sales force automation with 5 users FREE for 1 year!
>http://click.egroups.com/1/2658/13/_/3457/_/961638228/
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Bolger rules:
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>