Re: How much resin?
Thanks for the encouragement, Graeme, and the resin advice, all. The
rig mods sound tempting, but if I have learned anything from my
previous projects, it's that the more that I vary from he plans, the
longer it takes. I'm gonna try to control myself this time and just
build it as designed.
Regards,
Matthew
rig mods sound tempting, but if I have learned anything from my
previous projects, it's that the more that I vary from he plans, the
longer it takes. I'm gonna try to control myself this time and just
build it as designed.
Regards,
Matthew
It is a sure thing that this won't be the only boat you build. epoxy
doesn't have a known shelf life, (West did some tests on some 18 year
old stuff and it tested out at higher viscosity, but stronger.) if there
is extra, just save it and use it on your next boat.
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
doesn't have a known shelf life, (West did some tests on some 18 year
old stuff and it tested out at higher viscosity, but stronger.) if there
is extra, just save it and use it on your next boat.
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
> If I were starting a Storm Petrel project, I would splurge and buy a
> 10 gallon kit on Ebay
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270135340098
>
> You might end up with a gallon or two left over.
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "The Peillet-Long Family"
<owlnmole@...> wrote:
posted, and show us lots of pics of the project building and
sailing. Good luck.
BTW: Just the other day I was looking at the relative ease of how
the Single Handed Schooner sail rig and lifting keel would fit
SP... Simply don't cut out the piece for the hatch on the after
deck sheet, simply move the hatch forward that much on the
longitudinal carlins to make a spot for the daggerboard that will
have the ballast c.o.g. in the horizontal plane as designed, then
fit the sail rig relative to the daggerboard as for SHS! The SP
rudder will fall in near enough the right place as is. A deck beam
at the front of the daggerboard case may be the only extra necessity
to distribute some of the weight to the sides. Less weight, more
righting moment with keel c.o.e. lower in the verticle plane, better
windward ability, some thin water capability. A better storm
handling sail rig, with increased drive, that's still great for
short handed sailing, and arguably as pretty! Don't forget the boom
when tacking though!
BTWT: Scooneroos, I'm told the Betty Ramsey Cup (19 to 40 footers)
as chased after by the original Folding Schooner is on soon.
Gloucester Schooner Races: in August, I think. How about local
tacticians on board a "Mostly Harmless" type to take it out?
Graeme
<owlnmole@...> wrote:
> ... soon for my Storm Petrel project...Yippee! It's on then - another Storm Petrel. Matthew please keep us
posted, and show us lots of pics of the project building and
sailing. Good luck.
BTW: Just the other day I was looking at the relative ease of how
the Single Handed Schooner sail rig and lifting keel would fit
SP... Simply don't cut out the piece for the hatch on the after
deck sheet, simply move the hatch forward that much on the
longitudinal carlins to make a spot for the daggerboard that will
have the ballast c.o.g. in the horizontal plane as designed, then
fit the sail rig relative to the daggerboard as for SHS! The SP
rudder will fall in near enough the right place as is. A deck beam
at the front of the daggerboard case may be the only extra necessity
to distribute some of the weight to the sides. Less weight, more
righting moment with keel c.o.e. lower in the verticle plane, better
windward ability, some thin water capability. A better storm
handling sail rig, with increased drive, that's still great for
short handed sailing, and arguably as pretty! Don't forget the boom
when tacking though!
BTWT: Scooneroos, I'm told the Betty Ramsey Cup (19 to 40 footers)
as chased after by the original Folding Schooner is on soon.
Gloucester Schooner Races: in August, I think. How about local
tacticians on board a "Mostly Harmless" type to take it out?
Graeme
If I were starting a Storm Petrel project, I would splurge and buy a
10 gallon kit on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270135340098
You might end up with a gallon or two left over.
10 gallon kit on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270135340098
You might end up with a gallon or two left over.
General rule is on glass it is equal to weight of glass. If the glass
is 8 Oz. a sq. yard then it takes about 8 Oz. of epoxy to lay the
glass, fill the weave and a final coat. That is Sq/Yard not running
yard. Dynel can take up as mucn as 3 tines the cloth weight. Alittle
more if you want to realy work it out fine and do extra fairing.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "The Peillet-Long Family"
<owlnmole@...> wrote:
is 8 Oz. a sq. yard then it takes about 8 Oz. of epoxy to lay the
glass, fill the weave and a final coat. That is Sq/Yard not running
yard. Dynel can take up as mucn as 3 tines the cloth weight. Alittle
more if you want to realy work it out fine and do extra fairing.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "The Peillet-Long Family"
<owlnmole@...> wrote:
>per
> Hi, all!
>
> Anyone have some guidelines for estimating how much resin is needed
> unit area for a single layer of glass or Dynel? Gonna have toorder
> some soon for my Storm Petrel project, and while I can't easily runout
> and get more, that stuff is too expensive to order too much.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matthew
>
Hi, all!
Anyone have some guidelines for estimating how much resin is needed per
unit area for a single layer of glass or Dynel? Gonna have to order
some soon for my Storm Petrel project, and while I can't easily run out
and get more, that stuff is too expensive to order too much.
Thanks!
Matthew
Anyone have some guidelines for estimating how much resin is needed per
unit area for a single layer of glass or Dynel? Gonna have to order
some soon for my Storm Petrel project, and while I can't easily run out
and get more, that stuff is too expensive to order too much.
Thanks!
Matthew