Re: [bolger] Bonefish origins [was Re: Bolger and Friends]
I'm sorry Sam I forgot to answer your question. As I
recall they were planing on useing an electric clutch.
I know Pitts is just one maker of them. They are what
we used on the boats I worked on, to drive washdown
and hydraulic pumps. It's just a matter of flipping a
simple switch.
Your shiv on your propshaft wouyld need to be about 10
inches dia to get a 2 to 1 as I recall the clutches
were 5.5 inch dia and used two 1/2 or 5/8 Vee belts.
I'm sure Pitts had a website and I'll see if I can
fine it.
Yes your propshaft will need to have thrust bearings.
I know they make a doubble taper pillow block that
will handle the side loading of your shafe as well as
take the load of the drive belts.
You would need to make a steel frame to mount every
thing to and to take the thrust loads from the
propshaft. The thing would be just simple fab work.
But you would need some solid mount points in the hull
to bolt it to.
Blessings Krissie
--- Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.
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recall they were planing on useing an electric clutch.
I know Pitts is just one maker of them. They are what
we used on the boats I worked on, to drive washdown
and hydraulic pumps. It's just a matter of flipping a
simple switch.
Your shiv on your propshaft wouyld need to be about 10
inches dia to get a 2 to 1 as I recall the clutches
were 5.5 inch dia and used two 1/2 or 5/8 Vee belts.
I'm sure Pitts had a website and I'll see if I can
fine it.
Yes your propshaft will need to have thrust bearings.
I know they make a doubble taper pillow block that
will handle the side loading of your shafe as well as
take the load of the drive belts.
You would need to make a steel frame to mount every
thing to and to take the thrust loads from the
propshaft. The thing would be just simple fab work.
But you would need some solid mount points in the hull
to bolt it to.
Blessings Krissie
--- Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
> Krissie, would the pulley set-up require two thrust____________________________________________________________________________________Ready for the edge of your seat?
> bearings on the shaft, with the pulley mounted
> between
> them? Would the shaft coming off the motor itself
> have to rest in a remote bearing, or would the motor
> be able to take the overhang of the loaded pulley.
> Sorry for the very basic questions, but I have never
> done or seen a set-up like this.
> --- Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
>
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Hey Rick if I'm not mistaken the Bonefish was drawn up
long before the Hawkeye and Microtrawer ever saw a
drawing board. But your premius is about right, as to
whats what.
Blessings Krissie
--- Rick Bedard <sctree@...> wrote:
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long before the Hawkeye and Microtrawer ever saw a
drawing board. But your premius is about right, as to
whats what.
Blessings Krissie
--- Rick Bedard <sctree@...> wrote:
> Microtrawler with a self draining deck and no____________________________________________________________________________________
> superstructure (except the phone booth) , an
> outboard well, and a mid station stretch of 3.5 feet
> became Hawkeye, right? Hawkeye with an aircooled
> inboard, a further two foot stretch an aft tapered
> box keel (because it's not meant to plane like MT or
> Hawkeye) and a rudder (because of no outboard
> steering) is a Bonefish. Oh, the lengths vary a bit,
> but they are all versions of basiclly the same hull.
>
>
> So take those Hawkeye plans, build an aft taper to
> the box keel, (The boxkeel is the first thing to be
> built with MT and Hawkeye and is a flat bottomed
> plumb sided box aft of midships so would be simple
> to taper aft as seen in the Bonefish sketch) add a
> rudder and your aircooled and you have your
> Bonefish...
>
> Rick
>
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Krissie, would the pulley set-up require two thrust
bearings on the shaft, with the pulley mounted between
them? Would the shaft coming off the motor itself
have to rest in a remote bearing, or would the motor
be able to take the overhang of the loaded pulley.
Sorry for the very basic questions, but I have never
done or seen a set-up like this.
--- Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
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bearings on the shaft, with the pulley mounted between
them? Would the shaft coming off the motor itself
have to rest in a remote bearing, or would the motor
be able to take the overhang of the loaded pulley.
Sorry for the very basic questions, but I have never
done or seen a set-up like this.
--- Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
> Sam you can always make the keel deeper so you can____________________________________________________________________________________Ready
> swing a larger prop. When I look at the Bonefish I
> see
> 12 inch prop as a min. 14 inch would be better. I
> don't have my book handy (Note to self get my tec
> book
> back from Rich.) but going from a 12" prop to a 14"
> prop is over double the thrust area. With a low
> power
> boat like Bonefish you need to get the power to the
> water with as little loss as you can so that means
> larger prop dia.
>
> I'm thinking of printing the blurp of the Bonefish
> and
> then blow it up just to get a better idea if the
> size
> of things..... Yes I'm still waiting for airplane
> drawings. But they are getting closer.
>
> Blessings Krissie
>
> --- Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...>
> wrote:
>
> > I guess that is right--you could make whatever
> > reduction you want by varying the diameter of the
> > pulleys. I guess the place to start would be to
> > calculate the appoximate diameter of the prop from
> > the
> > depth of the box keel and work backwards.
>
>
>
>
>
> for the edge of your seat?____________________________________________________________________________________
> Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.
>http://tv.yahoo.com/
>
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Sam you can always make the keel deeper so you can
swing a larger prop. When I look at the Bonefish I see
12 inch prop as a min. 14 inch would be better. I
don't have my book handy (Note to self get my tec book
back from Rich.) but going from a 12" prop to a 14"
prop is over double the thrust area. With a low power
boat like Bonefish you need to get the power to the
water with as little loss as you can so that means
larger prop dia.
I'm thinking of printing the blurp of the Bonefish and
then blow it up just to get a better idea if the size
of things..... Yes I'm still waiting for airplane
drawings. But they are getting closer.
Blessings Krissie
--- Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo.com/
swing a larger prop. When I look at the Bonefish I see
12 inch prop as a min. 14 inch would be better. I
don't have my book handy (Note to self get my tec book
back from Rich.) but going from a 12" prop to a 14"
prop is over double the thrust area. With a low power
boat like Bonefish you need to get the power to the
water with as little loss as you can so that means
larger prop dia.
I'm thinking of printing the blurp of the Bonefish and
then blow it up just to get a better idea if the size
of things..... Yes I'm still waiting for airplane
drawings. But they are getting closer.
Blessings Krissie
--- Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
> I guess that is right--you could make whatever____________________________________________________________________________________Ready for the edge of your seat?
> reduction you want by varying the diameter of the
> pulleys. I guess the place to start would be to
> calculate the appoximate diameter of the prop from
> the
> depth of the box keel and work backwards.
Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.
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Good stuff Tim, this is going into the save file. What have you been
using for transmissions and water pump? I would think the most expensive
item would be the prop shaft unless you are running in fresh water.
HJ
Tim Anderson wrote:
using for transmissions and water pump? I would think the most expensive
item would be the prop shaft unless you are running in fresh water.
HJ
Tim Anderson wrote:
> Props for air-cooled engines can be acquired fromhttp://www.godevil.com/,
> I've built several boats using air-cooled engines, both gas and diesel, they
> can be installed in a noise baffled box so long as the flow through the
> cooling fins is maintained.
>
> Here is how it is done:
>
> * drill and tap a hole in the shrouding near the fan
> * attach a vacuum pressure gauge
> * start motor and take reading
> * modify the shrouding to redirect the heat aft making sure that the
> pressure doesn't change
> * remove exhaust and replace with a 18-8 SS exhaust tube with a water
> injection tube built in
> * install water lift muffler
> * add water pump
> * add transmission and connect with Lovejoy coupling
> * Mount engine, trans and pump on 2x2 angle iron motor mount framework
> (unifies the mass)
> * Use Volvo motor mounts to dampen vibration
> * Build motor box and insulate with noise dampening materials
> * The front of the box has an intake tube that mates to the cooling
> fan opening in the housing
> * The back of the box should have an opening that matches a Honda or
> Toyota electric cooling fan that exhausts the air from the box
>
>
>
> With this set up the engine noise will be cut by 80% and the heat is
> directed out of the boat.
>
>
>
> I've also had great success installing as direct drive inboard in small
> boats by mounting the engine well forward to achieve low shaft angles; when
> you stand in front of the engine to pull the starter your weight lifts the
> prop clear of the water for easy starting.. Once the motor is running, one
> giant step aft and the prop is in the water and away you go!
>
>
>
> Tim P Anderson
>
>
>
>
>
Props for air-cooled engines can be acquired from http://www.godevil.com/ ,
I've built several boats using air-cooled engines, both gas and diesel, they
can be installed in a noise baffled box so long as the flow through the
cooling fins is maintained.
Here is how it is done:
* drill and tap a hole in the shrouding near the fan
* attach a vacuum pressure gauge
* start motor and take reading
* modify the shrouding to redirect the heat aft making sure that the
pressure doesn't change
* remove exhaust and replace with a 18-8 SS exhaust tube with a water
injection tube built in
* install water lift muffler
* add water pump
* add transmission and connect with Lovejoy coupling
* Mount engine, trans and pump on 2x2 angle iron motor mount framework
(unifies the mass)
* Use Volvo motor mounts to dampen vibration
* Build motor box and insulate with noise dampening materials
* The front of the box has an intake tube that mates to the cooling
fan opening in the housing
* The back of the box should have an opening that matches a Honda or
Toyota electric cooling fan that exhausts the air from the box
With this set up the engine noise will be cut by 80% and the heat is
directed out of the boat.
I've also had great success installing as direct drive inboard in small
boats by mounting the engine well forward to achieve low shaft angles; when
you stand in front of the engine to pull the starter your weight lifts the
prop clear of the water for easy starting.. Once the motor is running, one
giant step aft and the prop is in the water and away you go!
Tim P Anderson
_____
From: bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Sam Glasscock
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 1:15 PM
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Bonefish origins [was Re: Bolger and Friends]
I guess that is right--you could make whatever
reduction you want by varying the diameter of the
pulleys. I guess the place to start would be to
calculate the appoximate diameter of the prop from the
depth of the box keel and work backwards.
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@hallman. <mailto:bruce%40hallman.org> org> wrote:
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
http://answers. <http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469>
yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I've built several boats using air-cooled engines, both gas and diesel, they
can be installed in a noise baffled box so long as the flow through the
cooling fins is maintained.
Here is how it is done:
* drill and tap a hole in the shrouding near the fan
* attach a vacuum pressure gauge
* start motor and take reading
* modify the shrouding to redirect the heat aft making sure that the
pressure doesn't change
* remove exhaust and replace with a 18-8 SS exhaust tube with a water
injection tube built in
* install water lift muffler
* add water pump
* add transmission and connect with Lovejoy coupling
* Mount engine, trans and pump on 2x2 angle iron motor mount framework
(unifies the mass)
* Use Volvo motor mounts to dampen vibration
* Build motor box and insulate with noise dampening materials
* The front of the box has an intake tube that mates to the cooling
fan opening in the housing
* The back of the box should have an opening that matches a Honda or
Toyota electric cooling fan that exhausts the air from the box
With this set up the engine noise will be cut by 80% and the heat is
directed out of the boat.
I've also had great success installing as direct drive inboard in small
boats by mounting the engine well forward to achieve low shaft angles; when
you stand in front of the engine to pull the starter your weight lifts the
prop clear of the water for easy starting.. Once the motor is running, one
giant step aft and the prop is in the water and away you go!
Tim P Anderson
_____
From: bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Sam Glasscock
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 1:15 PM
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Bonefish origins [was Re: Bolger and Friends]
I guess that is right--you could make whatever
reduction you want by varying the diameter of the
pulleys. I guess the place to start would be to
calculate the appoximate diameter of the prop from the
depth of the box keel and work backwards.
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@hallman. <mailto:bruce%40hallman.org> org> wrote:
> On 7/12/07, Sam Glasscock__________________________________________________________
> <glasscocklanding@ <mailto:glasscocklanding%40yahoo.com> yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Bruce, has anyone ever worked out what propping
> would
> > work with this engine and no reducing gear? I
> love
> > this design. Sam
>
> I recall the horizontal shaft motor spins a pulley,
> rotating a fan
> belt, connected to a pulley on the drive shaft.
> This acts,
> functionally, as a reduction 'gear'. And,
> certainly, a good prop shop
> could calculate the right spec for the propeller.
>
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
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yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I guess that is right--you could make whatever
reduction you want by varying the diameter of the
pulleys. I guess the place to start would be to
calculate the appoximate diameter of the prop from the
depth of the box keel and work backwards.
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469
reduction you want by varying the diameter of the
pulleys. I guess the place to start would be to
calculate the appoximate diameter of the prop from the
depth of the box keel and work backwards.
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
> On 7/12/07, Sam Glasscock____________________________________________________________________________________
> <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Bruce, has anyone ever worked out what propping
> would
> > work with this engine and no reducing gear? I
> love
> > this design. Sam
>
> I recall the horizontal shaft motor spins a pulley,
> rotating a fan
> belt, connected to a pulley on the drive shaft.
> This acts,
> functionally, as a reduction 'gear'. And,
> certainly, a good prop shop
> could calculate the right spec for the propeller.
>
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469
On 7/12/07, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
belt, connected to a pulley on the drive shaft. This acts,
functionally, as a reduction 'gear'. And, certainly, a good prop shop
could calculate the right spec for the propeller.
>I recall the horizontal shaft motor spins a pulley, rotating a fan
>
> Bruce, has anyone ever worked out what propping would
> work with this engine and no reducing gear? I love
> this design. Sam
belt, connected to a pulley on the drive shaft. This acts,
functionally, as a reduction 'gear'. And, certainly, a good prop shop
could calculate the right spec for the propeller.
Bruce, has anyone ever worked out what propping would
work with this engine and no reducing gear? I love
this design. Sam
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
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work with this engine and no reducing gear? I love
this design. Sam
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
> Right. Essentially what makes the Bonefish distinct____________________________________________________________________________________
> is that it
> accommodates an 'old fashion' propeller, prop shaft,
> thrust bearing,
> ujoint and stuffing box. With the 'crazy'
> ultracheap inboard 2cycle
> motor. Noisy, yes. But less so than a lawn mower or
> a dirt bike. If
> what you want is an affordable and capable fishery
> boat, Bonefish fits
> a niche unlike any other boat. You call it a
> sketch, but the info
> provided in that sketch is more than enough to build
> from.
>
> Speaking of fishery boats, anybody else notice the
> July 1 MAIB
> article? I only could read 50% of it, but I see
> that they got a
> provisional 2 year permit to tryout their low cost
> New England fishery
> boat! (Plus, they hint that plans are underway to
> build one.) Wow, I
> want to see this happen.
>
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
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> midships so would be simple to taper aft as seen in the Bonefish sketch)Right. Essentially what makes the Bonefish distinct is that it
>add a rudder and your aircooled and you have your Bonefish...
accommodates an 'old fashion' propeller, prop shaft, thrust bearing,
ujoint and stuffing box. With the 'crazy' ultracheap inboard 2cycle
motor. Noisy, yes. But less so than a lawn mower or a dirt bike. If
what you want is an affordable and capable fishery boat, Bonefish fits
a niche unlike any other boat. You call it a sketch, but the info
provided in that sketch is more than enough to build from.
Speaking of fishery boats, anybody else notice the July 1 MAIB
article? I only could read 50% of it, but I see that they got a
provisional 2 year permit to tryout their low cost New England fishery
boat! (Plus, they hint that plans are underway to build one.) Wow, I
want to see this happen.
Microtrawler with a self draining deck and no superstructure (except the phone booth) , an outboard well, and a mid station stretch of 3.5 feet became Hawkeye, right? Hawkeye with an aircooled inboard, a further two foot stretch an aft tapered box keel (because it's not meant to plane like MT or Hawkeye) and a rudder (because of no outboard steering) is a Bonefish. Oh, the lengths vary a bit, but they are all versions of basiclly the same hull.
So take those Hawkeye plans, build an aft taper to the box keel, (The boxkeel is the first thing to be built with MT and Hawkeye and is a flat bottomed plumb sided box aft of midships so would be simple to taper aft as seen in the Bonefish sketch) add a rudder and your aircooled and you have your Bonefish...
Rick
donschultz8275 <donschultz@...> wrote:
BTW. When I bought the Hawkeye plans, I inquired about Bonefish. PBF
confirmed plans were never developed beyond the sketch we have. I
recall the note being encouraging about building a Hawkeye as an
equivalent craft.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donschultz8275" <donschultz@...>
wrote:
So take those Hawkeye plans, build an aft taper to the box keel, (The boxkeel is the first thing to be built with MT and Hawkeye and is a flat bottomed plumb sided box aft of midships so would be simple to taper aft as seen in the Bonefish sketch) add a rudder and your aircooled and you have your Bonefish...
Rick
donschultz8275 <donschultz@...> wrote:
BTW. When I bought the Hawkeye plans, I inquired about Bonefish. PBF
confirmed plans were never developed beyond the sketch we have. I
recall the note being encouraging about building a Hawkeye as an
equivalent craft.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donschultz8275" <donschultz@...>
wrote:
>hope
> > Christine wrote;
> > I was looking at the Bonefish and thinking my old
> > Homelite Bearcat would be just fine for it. The only
> > thing I would have to do is run the cutwater back
> > closer to the transom and put in a motorwell. It's not
> > a lot of fun wamping a prop with that old girl... They
> > are hard to find anymore!
> >
> > Blessings to all
> > Krissie
> >
>
> I fully agree an outboard powered Bonefish makes much sense. The
> guarding of the prop is excellent, and the noise and heat issues go
> away.
>
> > --- ira einsteen <einsteen@> wrote:
> >
> > > With air cooled engines it's not the exhaust noise.
> > > I had a small automobile muffler that controlled
> > > that pretty well. It's the engine noise that
> > > emminates from the body of the engine. There is no
> > > jacketing like you have on a water cooled engine and
> > > that makes all the difference. I tried an insulated
> > > engine box, but you still need to leave openings for
> > > the air to cool the engine.
> > >
> > > If anyone has found a way to live with an air cooled
> > > inboard I'd love to hear about it. In concept they
> > > make a lot of sense.
> > >
> > > Ira
> >
>
> The cooling fins along with the thin sheet metal baffles "ring"
> making most of the noise. The externals of the sheetmetal can be
> painted with the stuff used to cover pickup truck beds. Have to
> it will take the heat. I used to have a big two-strokemotorcycle.
> It had a few hard plastic/rubber pucks jammed in between the finsto
> reduce the ringing. This would need to be done carefully and[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> sparingly to prevent excessive blockage of the air flow.
>
> Don Schultz
>
BTW. When I bought the Hawkeye plans, I inquired about Bonefish. PBF
confirmed plans were never developed beyond the sketch we have. I
recall the note being encouraging about building a Hawkeye as an
equivalent craft.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donschultz8275" <donschultz@...>
wrote:
confirmed plans were never developed beyond the sketch we have. I
recall the note being encouraging about building a Hawkeye as an
equivalent craft.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donschultz8275" <donschultz@...>
wrote:
>hope
> > Christine wrote;
> > I was looking at the Bonefish and thinking my old
> > Homelite Bearcat would be just fine for it. The only
> > thing I would have to do is run the cutwater back
> > closer to the transom and put in a motorwell. It's not
> > a lot of fun wamping a prop with that old girl... They
> > are hard to find anymore!
> >
> > Blessings to all
> > Krissie
> >
>
> I fully agree an outboard powered Bonefish makes much sense. The
> guarding of the prop is excellent, and the noise and heat issues go
> away.
>
> > --- ira einsteen <einsteen@> wrote:
> >
> > > With air cooled engines it's not the exhaust noise.
> > > I had a small automobile muffler that controlled
> > > that pretty well. It's the engine noise that
> > > emminates from the body of the engine. There is no
> > > jacketing like you have on a water cooled engine and
> > > that makes all the difference. I tried an insulated
> > > engine box, but you still need to leave openings for
> > > the air to cool the engine.
> > >
> > > If anyone has found a way to live with an air cooled
> > > inboard I'd love to hear about it. In concept they
> > > make a lot of sense.
> > >
> > > Ira
> >
>
> The cooling fins along with the thin sheet metal baffles "ring"
> making most of the noise. The externals of the sheetmetal can be
> painted with the stuff used to cover pickup truck beds. Have to
> it will take the heat. I used to have a big two-strokemotorcycle.
> It had a few hard plastic/rubber pucks jammed in between the finsto
> reduce the ringing. This would need to be done carefully and
> sparingly to prevent excessive blockage of the air flow.
>
> Don Schultz
>
> Christine wrote;I fully agree an outboard powered Bonefish makes much sense. The
> I was looking at the Bonefish and thinking my old
> Homelite Bearcat would be just fine for it. The only
> thing I would have to do is run the cutwater back
> closer to the transom and put in a motorwell. It's not
> a lot of fun wamping a prop with that old girl... They
> are hard to find anymore!
>
> Blessings to all
> Krissie
>
guarding of the prop is excellent, and the noise and heat issues go
away.
> --- ira einsteen <einsteen@...> wrote:The cooling fins along with the thin sheet metal baffles "ring"
>
> > With air cooled engines it's not the exhaust noise.
> > I had a small automobile muffler that controlled
> > that pretty well. It's the engine noise that
> > emminates from the body of the engine. There is no
> > jacketing like you have on a water cooled engine and
> > that makes all the difference. I tried an insulated
> > engine box, but you still need to leave openings for
> > the air to cool the engine.
> >
> > If anyone has found a way to live with an air cooled
> > inboard I'd love to hear about it. In concept they
> > make a lot of sense.
> >
> > Ira
>
making most of the noise. The externals of the sheetmetal can be
painted with the stuff used to cover pickup truck beds. Have to hope
it will take the heat. I used to have a big two-stroke motorcycle.
It had a few hard plastic/rubber pucks jammed in between the fins to
reduce the ringing. This would need to be done carefully and
sparingly to prevent excessive blockage of the air flow.
Don Schultz
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Brian McCullough <bdmc@...> wrote:
finally taking its toll or else my blood/alcohol levels are dropping
quicker then expected :-)
But you are correct. I'll send it off to Nels once I remember it as I
just moved last week and it has been a wee bit chaotic on the home
front.
That prairie pirate Nels was gonna stay silent and watch how long it
would take me to figure it out on my own.Arrrrrh!
Thanks again for the heads up Brian!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
> Actually, Peter, Nels was looking for your Snail Mail addres. He wasWell Brian, I guess a few years worth of living/working with epoxy is
> offering paper copies of MAIB.
> Brian
finally taking its toll or else my blood/alcohol levels are dropping
quicker then expected :-)
But you are correct. I'll send it off to Nels once I remember it as I
just moved last week and it has been a wee bit chaotic on the home
front.
That prairie pirate Nels was gonna stay silent and watch how long it
would take me to figure it out on my own.Arrrrrh!
Thanks again for the heads up Brian!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
On Tue, Jul 10, 2007 at 11:41:35AM -0000, Peter Lenihan wrote:
offering paper copies of MAIB.
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "nels" <arvent@...> wrote:Actually, Peter, Nels was looking for your Snail Mail addres. He was
> >
> > Send me your current mailing address off-post - or on if you want -
> > and I will forward the issues, as you should have the original hard
> > copies to add to your collection of Bolger memorabilia.
> >
> > Nels
>
> Hi Nels,
>
> Arrrr! You're a pirate fer sure,eh? All righty,here it is;
> my full name(no capitals)@ hotmail.com
offering paper copies of MAIB.
> PeterBrian
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
Arrrr! You're a pirate fer sure,eh? All righty,here it is;
my full name(no capitals)@ hotmail.com
And yes,if there is a story to tell,I will tell it.....but I can't
speak to behavior beyond my control.You know,the demon rum and all :-
)
Peter
> > Peterand
>
> So you probably may have missed the article featuring WINDERMERE
> the hilarious comments about you? Also the comments of the ribaldbeing
> behavior that they witnessed and which they seem to consider as
> a "normal" facet of the Quebequois culture?story;-)
>
> Send me your current mailing address off-post - or on if you want -
> and I will forward the issues, as you should have the original hard
> copies to add to your collection of Bolger memorabilia.
>
> In exchange, I think you should share with us your side of the
>Hi Nels,
> Nels
Arrrr! You're a pirate fer sure,eh? All righty,here it is;
my full name(no capitals)@ hotmail.com
And yes,if there is a story to tell,I will tell it.....but I can't
speak to behavior beyond my control.You know,the demon rum and all :-
)
Peter
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@...> wrote:
the hilarious comments about you? Also the comments of the ribald
behavior that they witnessed and which they seem to consider as being
a "normal" facet of the Quebequois culture?
Send me your current mailing address off-post - or on if you want -
and I will forward the issues, as you should have the original hard
copies to add to your collection of Bolger memorabilia.
In exchange, I think you should share with us your side of the story;-)
Nels
> Hi Nels,So you probably may have missed the article featuring WINDERMERE and
>
> I(shamefully) let my subscription run out to MAIB some time ago
> and became side-tracked with a boatbuilding project.Would you be so
> kind and tell me which issue the above articles were in or(better yet)
> scan them and post them here or send them to my e-mail address. I'd be
> mighty curious to read what "they" had to say and I am sure Jean and
> Gaby would like to see the article too.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Peter
the hilarious comments about you? Also the comments of the ribald
behavior that they witnessed and which they seem to consider as being
a "normal" facet of the Quebequois culture?
Send me your current mailing address off-post - or on if you want -
and I will forward the issues, as you should have the original hard
copies to add to your collection of Bolger memorabilia.
In exchange, I think you should share with us your side of the story;-)
Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
I(shamefully) let my subscription run out to MAIB some time ago
and became side-tracked with a boatbuilding project.Would you be so
kind and tell me which issue the above articles were in or(better yet)
scan them and post them here or send them to my e-mail address. I'd be
mighty curious to read what "they" had to say and I am sure Jean and
Gaby would like to see the article too.
Thanks,
Peter
> Reading the recent articles in MAIB re: Anenome - the redesignedHi Nels,
> version of Loose Moose II - it is noted that LMII took 6 months to
> build while Anemome is going on 7 years and by what the articles say,
> there are still quite a few details to complete.
I(shamefully) let my subscription run out to MAIB some time ago
and became side-tracked with a boatbuilding project.Would you be so
kind and tell me which issue the above articles were in or(better yet)
scan them and post them here or send them to my e-mail address. I'd be
mighty curious to read what "they" had to say and I am sure Jean and
Gaby would like to see the article too.
Thanks,
Peter
The old cast iron Wisconsins were a great motor and
the engine noise was low as well. The two banger you
had if I remember right was 12 or 16 HP at 3200 RPM.
But they also made a 24 Hp in that style as well.
Kohler makes a water cool Vee twin. With a the
Bonefish you could easyly keelcool the engine.
I was looking at the Bonefish and thinking my old
Homelite Bearcat would be just fine for it. The only
thing I would have to do is run the cutwater back
closer to the transom and put in a motorwell. It's not
a lot of fun wamping a prop with that old girl... They
are hard to find anymore!
Blessings to all
Krissie
--- ira einsteen <einsteen@...> wrote:
Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting
the engine noise was low as well. The two banger you
had if I remember right was 12 or 16 HP at 3200 RPM.
But they also made a 24 Hp in that style as well.
Kohler makes a water cool Vee twin. With a the
Bonefish you could easyly keelcool the engine.
I was looking at the Bonefish and thinking my old
Homelite Bearcat would be just fine for it. The only
thing I would have to do is run the cutwater back
closer to the transom and put in a motorwell. It's not
a lot of fun wamping a prop with that old girl... They
are hard to find anymore!
Blessings to all
Krissie
--- ira einsteen <einsteen@...> wrote:
> I had an 18' Sea Bright Jersey Skiff around 20 years____________________________________________________________________________________
> ago that had a 2 cylinder air cooled engine. It
> was built originally with a Wisconsin engine which
> wasn't running when I bought the boat and I
> replaced it with a 2 cylinder Kohler. The
> vibrations were a bit of a problem, but I couldn't
> ever control the noise of the engine. It just
> wasn't acceptable and I fairly quickly tore it out
> in favor of a 9.9 outboard. That motor worked out
> fine, even though I has to cut the transom down to
> make it work in that boat.
>
> With air cooled engines it's not the exhaust noise.
> I had a small automobile muffler that controlled
> that pretty well. It's the engine noise that
> emminates from the body of the engine. There is no
> jacketing like you have on a water cooled engine and
> that makes all the difference. I tried an insulated
> engine box, but you still need to leave openings for
> the air to cool the engine.
>
> If anyone has found a way to live with an air cooled
> inboard I'd love to hear about it. In concept they
> make a lot of sense.
>
>
> Ira
Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting
I had an 18' Sea Bright Jersey Skiff around 20 years ago that had a 2 cylinder air cooled engine. It was built originally with a Wisconsin engine which wasn't running when I bought the boat and I replaced it with a 2 cylinder Kohler. The vibrations were a bit of a problem, but I couldn't ever control the noise of the engine. It just wasn't acceptable and I fairly quickly tore it out in favor of a 9.9 outboard. That motor worked out fine, even though I has to cut the transom down to make it work in that boat.
With air cooled engines it's not the exhaust noise. I had a small automobile muffler that controlled that pretty well. It's the engine noise that emminates from the body of the engine. There is no jacketing like you have on a water cooled engine and that makes all the difference. I tried an insulated engine box, but you still need to leave openings for the air to cool the engine.
If anyone has found a way to live with an air cooled inboard I'd love to hear about it. In concept they make a lot of sense.
Ira
---------------------------------
Building a website is a piece of cake.
Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
With air cooled engines it's not the exhaust noise. I had a small automobile muffler that controlled that pretty well. It's the engine noise that emminates from the body of the engine. There is no jacketing like you have on a water cooled engine and that makes all the difference. I tried an insulated engine box, but you still need to leave openings for the air to cool the engine.
If anyone has found a way to live with an air cooled inboard I'd love to hear about it. In concept they make a lot of sense.
Ira
---------------------------------
Building a website is a piece of cake.
Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "nels" <arvent@...> wrote:
I bought Hawkeye plans from Bolger and also picked up an unused set of
CSD's version of Microtrawler. The intent being to have plans of
similar hull designs from which to deduce how Bonefish should be
built.
I concluded the engine box needs a stack to convey the cooling air and
exhaust up through the shelter. The exhaust pipe would be co-axial in
the stack with the cooling air exhausting around it. The other
possibility is to move the engine aft to the transom, but that would
mean a shaft running fwd creating a trip hazard.
So I have plans to work from, and also bought the 18hp Briggs &
Stratton twin to power it. But I got married and moved for the first
time in 22 years, losing my work space while gaining a life partner.
It may be easier to create a minimal inboard cruiser based on
Tennesee, with the B&S set back to the stern, and chain or belt drive
for the V-drive into an automobile CV joint forming the prop shaft.
The B&S would pull fresh air out of the cockpit and exhaust it up and
aft through a grill.
> For those not familiar with Bonefish, the only info I am aware of is================
> posted in the files at the Bolger 7 location.
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger7/files/
>
> One can only speculate why this design was never completed as I know
> there was interest, but then PCB&F were perhaps too busy to follow up
> on requests.
>I can see some challenges installing an engine right in
> amongst the folks who might want to get under shelter.
>
I bought Hawkeye plans from Bolger and also picked up an unused set of
CSD's version of Microtrawler. The intent being to have plans of
similar hull designs from which to deduce how Bonefish should be
built.
I concluded the engine box needs a stack to convey the cooling air and
exhaust up through the shelter. The exhaust pipe would be co-axial in
the stack with the cooling air exhausting around it. The other
possibility is to move the engine aft to the transom, but that would
mean a shaft running fwd creating a trip hazard.
So I have plans to work from, and also bought the 18hp Briggs &
Stratton twin to power it. But I got married and moved for the first
time in 22 years, losing my work space while gaining a life partner.
It may be easier to create a minimal inboard cruiser based on
Tennesee, with the B&S set back to the stern, and chain or belt drive
for the V-drive into an automobile CV joint forming the prop shaft.
The B&S would pull fresh air out of the cockpit and exhaust it up and
aft through a grill.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
posted in the files at the Bolger 7 location.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger7/files/
One can only speculate why this design was never completed as I know
there was interest, but then PCB&F were perhaps too busy to follow up
on requests. I can see some challenges installing an engine right in
amongst the folks who might want to get under shelter.
One boat that was likely a co-design and was small, relatively simple
and "expandable" is Bantam. There are likely others. Becky Thatcher is
very intriguing and I guess there is a larger powered version in the
works. The BT design seemed to "jump the queue" of other designs that
had been commissioned years previously. Wandervogel being one I felt
was of interest, except for that rather complicated looking double
rudder installation.
The folks left waiting were apparently sent free plans of boats they
were not really that interested in. I found that less than acceptable
and have to wonder what the rationale was.
Reading the recent articles in MAIB re: Anenome - the redesigned
version of Loose Moose II - it is noted that LMII took 6 months to
build while Anemome is going on 7 years and by what the articles say,
there are still quite a few details to complete.
I also noticed that in the plans package, there is included the
"lighter and cheaper, but less capable original version" of LMII
plans. I believe this is also the case with BW2 - you get the original
plans as well.
Not sure if you need the originals to build the upgraded versions or
if PCB still considers the originals as valid designs on their own?
What I find interesting is the the older plans are seeing renewed
interest. Obviously the orignal Oldshoe, Micro and LM are still the
best bang for the buck version and the same for the Chebaccos. MT,
Sneakeasy and Tenessee and the original AS29 also seem fine just as
they were orignally, while leaving some latitude for tweaking without
a whole re-design. Lee boarders like the redesigned Martha Jane, and
others seem to be following off the popularity chart for whatever reason.
Then there is Double Eagle that is still creating a quandary in my
mind. What went wrong there?
Nels
>For those not familiar with Bonefish, the only info I am aware of is
> One subtext of this thread is: What degree of influence SA has brought
> to PB&F? Especially, considering the undeniable trend towards more
> complex boats in that same time period.
>
> This is an unanswerable question of course. One could never expect
> them to go on designing more Tortoises and Teals. Faced with utter
> simplicity as a baseline, there is only way to go, increased
> complexity.
>
> Still, the earliest 'pure' SA design that comes to my mind is one of
> the simple ones, the 'Bonefish'. With that design, they/she painted
> a picture of a fleet of these ultra cheap elegantly effective fishing
> boats, with which a local fishery could be made economical and saved.
> This design principle is mirrored in the larger 'economical New
> England fishing boat' of three years ago. Larger and more complex,
> but still without any of that complex detail lacking a functional
> purpose. Another theme of his, hers and theirs.
>
posted in the files at the Bolger 7 location.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger7/files/
One can only speculate why this design was never completed as I know
there was interest, but then PCB&F were perhaps too busy to follow up
on requests. I can see some challenges installing an engine right in
amongst the folks who might want to get under shelter.
One boat that was likely a co-design and was small, relatively simple
and "expandable" is Bantam. There are likely others. Becky Thatcher is
very intriguing and I guess there is a larger powered version in the
works. The BT design seemed to "jump the queue" of other designs that
had been commissioned years previously. Wandervogel being one I felt
was of interest, except for that rather complicated looking double
rudder installation.
The folks left waiting were apparently sent free plans of boats they
were not really that interested in. I found that less than acceptable
and have to wonder what the rationale was.
Reading the recent articles in MAIB re: Anenome - the redesigned
version of Loose Moose II - it is noted that LMII took 6 months to
build while Anemome is going on 7 years and by what the articles say,
there are still quite a few details to complete.
I also noticed that in the plans package, there is included the
"lighter and cheaper, but less capable original version" of LMII
plans. I believe this is also the case with BW2 - you get the original
plans as well.
Not sure if you need the originals to build the upgraded versions or
if PCB still considers the originals as valid designs on their own?
What I find interesting is the the older plans are seeing renewed
interest. Obviously the orignal Oldshoe, Micro and LM are still the
best bang for the buck version and the same for the Chebaccos. MT,
Sneakeasy and Tenessee and the original AS29 also seem fine just as
they were orignally, while leaving some latitude for tweaking without
a whole re-design. Lee boarders like the redesigned Martha Jane, and
others seem to be following off the popularity chart for whatever reason.
Then there is Double Eagle that is still creating a quandary in my
mind. What went wrong there?
Nels
Yea, but if you hadn't mentioned it before I would never have discovered
it and I am now a very happy subscriber slowly buying back issues. Very
close in feel and subject matter to SBJ except no PCB.
HJ
Paul Esterle wrote:
it and I am now a very happy subscriber slowly buying back issues. Very
close in feel and subject matter to SBJ except no PCB.
HJ
Paul Esterle wrote:
> I was a devoted subscriber to SBJ. I don't recall any leanings toward
> small plywood boats although they certainly did cover them. A more
> worthy successor to SBJ is Small Craft Advisor
> (www.smallcraftadvisor.com). We regularly review small wooden boats,
> homebuilders, Everglades Challenge boats. I'm sure they would be happy
> to have Jim submit an article to them.
>
> (Caveat: I'm the Technical Editor of SCA and biased)
>
> Paul Esterle
> Freelance Boating Writer
> Columbia 10.7, 26 & Matilda 20
> North East, MD.
> “Capt’n Pauley’s Boat Repairs & Upgrades”
> book at www.captnpauley.com
> home.comcast.net/~pesterle/
>
>
>
>>
>> "With the demise of the great paper magazine Small Boat Journal about
>> ten years ago, Wooden Boat is about the only way left for a fellow to
>> buy a magazine off the shelf at a book store and get introduced to
>> homebuilt boats. But small simple plywood boats are becoming rare in
>> Wooden Boat and I'm not sure how relevant the magazine is to us anymore."
>>
>> .
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
--- Michael Wagner <willers32@...> wrote:
she would even speak German with a definite Cologne accent ;)
(or would that be "Colognal accent"?)
Cheers,
Stefan
>If she is really from Cologne (not just immigrated to Cologne), then
> Suzanne is from Cologne, Germany and speaks with a definite
> German accent.
she would even speak German with a definite Cologne accent ;)
(or would that be "Colognal accent"?)
Cheers,
Stefan
One subtext of this thread is: What degree of influence SA has brought
to PB&F? Especially, considering the undeniable trend towards more
complex boats in that same time period.
This is an unanswerable question of course. One could never expect
them to go on designing more Tortoises and Teals. Faced with utter
simplicity as a baseline, there is only way to go, increased
complexity.
Still, the earliest 'pure' SA design that comes to my mind is one of
the simple ones, the 'Bonefish'. With that design, they/she painted
a picture of a fleet of these ultra cheap elegantly effective fishing
boats, with which a local fishery could be made economical and saved.
This design principle is mirrored in the larger 'economical New
England fishing boat' of three years ago. Larger and more complex,
but still without any of that complex detail lacking a functional
purpose. Another theme of his, hers and theirs.
to PB&F? Especially, considering the undeniable trend towards more
complex boats in that same time period.
This is an unanswerable question of course. One could never expect
them to go on designing more Tortoises and Teals. Faced with utter
simplicity as a baseline, there is only way to go, increased
complexity.
Still, the earliest 'pure' SA design that comes to my mind is one of
the simple ones, the 'Bonefish'. With that design, they/she painted
a picture of a fleet of these ultra cheap elegantly effective fishing
boats, with which a local fishery could be made economical and saved.
This design principle is mirrored in the larger 'economical New
England fishing boat' of three years ago. Larger and more complex,
but still without any of that complex detail lacking a functional
purpose. Another theme of his, hers and theirs.
Suzanne is from Cologne, Germany and speaks with a definite German accent.
derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote: Is "Altenberger" a German name? It may be in her genes.
I once owned a Mercedes and it was the darnedest collection of patches and fixes, straight from the factory with dozens of little black boxes that no one knew how to adjust. The Pontiac I bought later was twice the car for one third the money.
The Germans used to have a contest each year for the weirdest machine. I remember seeing one year's winner, a fire truck built on a motor scooter.
Roger (but I still miss my 1933 Chevy)
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote: Is "Altenberger" a German name? It may be in her genes.
I once owned a Mercedes and it was the darnedest collection of patches and fixes, straight from the factory with dozens of little black boxes that no one knew how to adjust. The Pontiac I bought later was twice the car for one third the money.
The Germans used to have a contest each year for the weirdest machine. I remember seeing one year's winner, a fire truck built on a motor scooter.
Roger (but I still miss my 1933 Chevy)
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: graeme19121984
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2007 8:18 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Bolger and Friends
> no surprise that fewer bigger boats get built versus the smaller
boats he favored during the 1970's and 1980's.
A size <strike out / insert> sign of the times? I dunno.
Whatever size less was more; unequivocatingly, no "more or less".
PCB loved to simplify across the board, so I think it possibly more
a sign of complicate versus simplicate. There were big designs
realized, and unrealized, (and unreal) in that period too. ROSE not
too good an example; though size does matter some.
Who was it, Wilde, perhaps Dickens, maybe Hemmingway? At any rate an
author who could match it with Bolger in quintessential parsimony.
They wrote a friend a long letter once, begun by begging
forgiveness, for the length; they had not time to write a shorter
one. Annie Dillard, after 30 years may soon take another Pulitzer,
this time for fiction. "The Maytrees" ruthlessly cut down to 216
pages from a first draft of 1400.
Time and tide..., so much to do; no small thing, size, to do so much.
Charles mentioned PCB's videoed chagrin at the certification of NAs.
Large designs may ram that message home; the fisheries get them
smaller.
Graeme
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Is "Altenberger" a German name? It may be in her genes.
I once owned a Mercedes and it was the darnedest collection of patches and fixes, straight from the factory with dozens of little black boxes that no one knew how to adjust. The Pontiac I bought later was twice the car for one third the money.
The Germans used to have a contest each year for the weirdest machine. I remember seeing one year's winner, a fire truck built on a motor scooter.
Roger (but I still miss my 1933 Chevy)
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
I once owned a Mercedes and it was the darnedest collection of patches and fixes, straight from the factory with dozens of little black boxes that no one knew how to adjust. The Pontiac I bought later was twice the car for one third the money.
The Germans used to have a contest each year for the weirdest machine. I remember seeing one year's winner, a fire truck built on a motor scooter.
Roger (but I still miss my 1933 Chevy)
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: graeme19121984
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2007 8:18 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Bolger and Friends
> no surprise that fewer bigger boats get built versus the smaller
boats he favored during the 1970's and 1980's.
A size <strike out / insert> sign of the times? I dunno.
Whatever size less was more; unequivocatingly, no "more or less".
PCB loved to simplify across the board, so I think it possibly more
a sign of complicate versus simplicate. There were big designs
realized, and unrealized, (and unreal) in that period too. ROSE not
too good an example; though size does matter some.
Who was it, Wilde, perhaps Dickens, maybe Hemmingway? At any rate an
author who could match it with Bolger in quintessential parsimony.
They wrote a friend a long letter once, begun by begging
forgiveness, for the length; they had not time to write a shorter
one. Annie Dillard, after 30 years may soon take another Pulitzer,
this time for fiction. "The Maytrees" ruthlessly cut down to 216
pages from a first draft of 1400.
Time and tide..., so much to do; no small thing, size, to do so much.
Charles mentioned PCB's videoed chagrin at the certification of NAs.
Large designs may ram that message home; the fisheries get them
smaller.
Graeme
Recent Activity
a.. 5New Members
b.. 12New Photos
c.. 1New Files
Visit Your Group
SPONSORED LINKS
a.. Bolger center
b.. Bolger
c.. Phil bolger
Health Zone
Look your best!
Groups to help you
look & feel great.
Yahoo! Finance
It's Now Personal
Guides, news,
advice & more.
Yahoo! Groups
Real Food Group
Share recipes
and favorite meals.
.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> no surprise that fewer bigger boats get built versus the smallerboats he favored during the 1970's and 1980's.
A size <strike out / insert> sign of the times? I dunno.
Whatever size less was more; unequivocatingly, no "more or less".
PCB loved to simplify across the board, so I think it possibly more
a sign of complicate versus simplicate. There were big designs
realized, and unrealized, (and unreal) in that period too. ROSE not
too good an example; though size does matter some.
Who was it, Wilde, perhaps Dickens, maybe Hemmingway? At any rate an
author who could match it with Bolger in quintessential parsimony.
They wrote a friend a long letter once, begun by begging
forgiveness, for the length; they had not time to write a shorter
one. Annie Dillard, after 30 years may soon take another Pulitzer,
this time for fiction. "The Maytrees" ruthlessly cut down to 216
pages from a first draft of 1400.
Time and tide..., so much to do; no small thing, size, to do so much.
Charles mentioned PCB's videoed chagrin at the certification of NAs.
Large designs may ram that message home; the fisheries get them
smaller.
Graeme
Yes, and most of the older, larger, more complicated designs that
appear in his books were commissioned by individual clients (or
designs built for quantity production projects that never went ahead)
and thus not boats that would appeal to many prospective builders.
With PCB's designs that went into quantity production, the clients
would have commercial reasons for not wanting the plans published.
Howard
appear in his books were commissioned by individual clients (or
designs built for quantity production projects that never went ahead)
and thus not boats that would appeal to many prospective builders.
With PCB's designs that went into quantity production, the clients
would have commercial reasons for not wanting the plans published.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> On 7/6/07, nels <arvent@...> wrote:
>
> > that have never got completed since. Or are folks building the new
> > designs, just not posting about their progress?
>
> Clearly, in the last two decades, PCB (and SA) has favored designing
> bigger boats. It is no surprise that fewer bigger boats get built
> versus the smaller boats he favored during the 1970's and 1980's.
> Those smaller simple boats were cheaper and easier to build, and more
> got built. I think similar could be said of the PCB big carvel
> planked boats he tended to design in the 1950's and 1960's, not many
> of them got built either.
>
On 7/6/07, nels <arvent@...> wrote:
bigger boats. It is no surprise that fewer bigger boats get built
versus the smaller boats he favored during the 1970's and 1980's.
Those smaller simple boats were cheaper and easier to build, and more
got built. I think similar could be said of the PCB big carvel
planked boats he tended to design in the 1950's and 1960's, not many
of them got built either.
> that have never got completed since. Or are folks building the newClearly, in the last two decades, PCB (and SA) has favored designing
> designs, just not posting about their progress?
bigger boats. It is no surprise that fewer bigger boats get built
versus the smaller boats he favored during the 1970's and 1980's.
Those smaller simple boats were cheaper and easier to build, and more
got built. I think similar could be said of the PCB big carvel
planked boats he tended to design in the 1950's and 1960's, not many
of them got built either.
I was a devoted subscriber to SBJ. I don't recall any leanings toward
small plywood boats although they certainly did cover them. A more
worthy successor to SBJ is Small Craft Advisor
(www.smallcraftadvisor.com). We regularly review small wooden boats,
homebuilders, Everglades Challenge boats. I'm sure they would be happy
to have Jim submit an article to them.
(Caveat: I'm the Technical Editor of SCA and biased)
Paul Esterle
Freelance Boating Writer
Columbia 10.7, 26 & Matilda 20
North East, MD.
“Capt’n Pauley’s Boat Repairs & Upgrades”
book at www.captnpauley.com
home.comcast.net/~pesterle/
small plywood boats although they certainly did cover them. A more
worthy successor to SBJ is Small Craft Advisor
(www.smallcraftadvisor.com). We regularly review small wooden boats,
homebuilders, Everglades Challenge boats. I'm sure they would be happy
to have Jim submit an article to them.
(Caveat: I'm the Technical Editor of SCA and biased)
Paul Esterle
Freelance Boating Writer
Columbia 10.7, 26 & Matilda 20
North East, MD.
“Capt’n Pauley’s Boat Repairs & Upgrades”
book at www.captnpauley.com
home.comcast.net/~pesterle/
>
>
>
> "With the demise of the great paper magazine Small Boat Journal about
> ten years ago, Wooden Boat is about the only way left for a fellow to
> buy a magazine off the shelf at a book store and get introduced to
> homebuilt boats. But small simple plywood boats are becoming rare in
> Wooden Boat and I'm not sure how relevant the magazine is to us anymore."
>
> .
>
>
Anybody have a ball park figure on the first design number that
Suzanne was involved with from the beginning? Or when Bolger began to
advertise as PCB&F?
The reason I ask is I am curious as to how many of the designs where
actually built since she became involved. And then how many designs
that have never got completed since. Or are folks building the new
designs, just not posting about their progress?
Since she has apparently pretty much taken over according to what Phil
was quoted as saying, how does this all bode for the future?
I also find it interesting that PCB reads WB from cover to cover and
Jim Michalak has this to say:
"With the demise of the great paper magazine Small Boat Journal about
ten years ago, Wooden Boat is about the only way left for a fellow to
buy a magazine off the shelf at a book store and get introduced to
homebuilt boats. But small simple plywood boats are becoming rare in
Wooden Boat and I'm not sure how relevant the magazine is to us anymore."
Nels
Suzanne was involved with from the beginning? Or when Bolger began to
advertise as PCB&F?
The reason I ask is I am curious as to how many of the designs where
actually built since she became involved. And then how many designs
that have never got completed since. Or are folks building the new
designs, just not posting about their progress?
Since she has apparently pretty much taken over according to what Phil
was quoted as saying, how does this all bode for the future?
I also find it interesting that PCB reads WB from cover to cover and
Jim Michalak has this to say:
"With the demise of the great paper magazine Small Boat Journal about
ten years ago, Wooden Boat is about the only way left for a fellow to
buy a magazine off the shelf at a book store and get introduced to
homebuilt boats. But small simple plywood boats are becoming rare in
Wooden Boat and I'm not sure how relevant the magazine is to us anymore."
Nels