Re: Digest Number 3736--Butt Joined Plywood
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Chris Crandall <crandall@...> wrote:
Second, I don't have
> any 1/4" MDO (and would have to special order it, and it would be
> one-sided which would probably be OK, but the "bad side" of one-
sided
> MDO is extraordinarily awful--wild grain, large open knots, etc.).
I do
> not wish to sacrifice the marvelous finish on MDO--it's
practically
> ready for a high gloss paint.
Hi Chris,
That"extraordinarily awful--wild grain,large open knots,etc"
is a time saving blessing in disguise! Just think, your mating
surface does not have to be roughed up to give tooth for the
epoxy.The factory has already done it for you,big time :-D
You won't even ruin the good side, which I agree, is fantastic
and just about ready for any finish.
For the narrow butt straps called for, these would also be
relatively easy to get out of end cuttings of regular 1/2"
MDO.Labour intensive perhaps, but us amateurs are cheap-time whores
and slaves to our projects as it is so time hardly counts :-)
Keep a good thought!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,willing slave and cheap-time whore to his Windermere
project..........
Or.... with a broad chisel or a plane blade you can split a narrow strip of 1/2" along a glue line, you can make it easier by kerfing the piece every 1/2" or so with a circular saw first. Or router it down to a desired thickness. Use a router to make the slot (of course remove those ss screws first) the exact width of and slightly thicker than the filler strip to allow for some thickened epoxy which should be peaked with a notched trowel. A few dead flat blocks (plastic covered) with heavy weights spaning the filler to the panel will allow the filler peice to settle to the exact height of the main panels. Clean up the squeezeout before it hardens of course.
If you need three short term use 8' bar clamps but don't want to buy pipe, use 2x4's with blocks on the same face of each end and a wedge between one of the offset blocks and the piece being clamped. Surely you will find a use for the 2x4's later on.
Back to boatbuilding.....
Rick
derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
Getting a small piece of 1/4" single-sided MDO is not a problem. Find someone with a planer and run a thicker piece thru.
The "stress-riser" nature of the end of the inlet butt block might be a problem if the sheet is impacted, but for bulkheads, most of the stress is in the plane of the bulkhead.
The classic scarf joint in MDO is ugly! The overlay does not feather well and thus there's a hollow to be filled where it chips off. A hook scarf (?) would work but it would be a lot more work.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
If you need three short term use 8' bar clamps but don't want to buy pipe, use 2x4's with blocks on the same face of each end and a wedge between one of the offset blocks and the piece being clamped. Surely you will find a use for the 2x4's later on.
Back to boatbuilding.....
Rick
derbyrm <derbyrm@...> wrote:
Getting a small piece of 1/4" single-sided MDO is not a problem. Find someone with a planer and run a thicker piece thru.
The "stress-riser" nature of the end of the inlet butt block might be a problem if the sheet is impacted, but for bulkheads, most of the stress is in the plane of the bulkhead.
The classic scarf joint in MDO is ugly! The overlay does not feather well and thus there's a hollow to be filled where it chips off. A hook scarf (?) would work but it would be a lot more work.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Crandall
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 11:10 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Digest Number 3736--Butt Joined Plywood
"Peter Lenihan" wrote:
> Check out this link:
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/micro2/index.htm
>
> and scroll about half way down the article to see one possible route
> that may interest you regarding the joining of two 1/2" MDO > panels. It worked well for me :-)
I like the method. I have joined plywood sheets in a roughly similar
manner, and agree with you that it works quite well.
My problem with it here is twofold. First, I foolishly joined one of my
MDO sheets to the frame already, using epoxy and stainless screws. I can't router-out the rabbit after-the-fact, alas.
Second, I don't have any 1/4" MDO (and would have to special order it, and it would be one-sided which would probably be OK, but the "bad side" of one-sided MDO is extraordinarily awful--wild grain, large open knots, etc.). I do not wish to sacrifice the marvelous finish on MDO--it's practically ready for a high gloss paint.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Getting a small piece of 1/4" single-sided MDO is not a problem. Find someone with a planer and run a thicker piece thru.
The "stress-riser" nature of the end of the inlet butt block might be a problem if the sheet is impacted, but for bulkheads, most of the stress is in the plane of the bulkhead.
The classic scarf joint in MDO is ugly! The overlay does not feather well and thus there's a hollow to be filled where it chips off. A hook scarf (?) would work but it would be a lot more work.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
The "stress-riser" nature of the end of the inlet butt block might be a problem if the sheet is impacted, but for bulkheads, most of the stress is in the plane of the bulkhead.
The classic scarf joint in MDO is ugly! The overlay does not feather well and thus there's a hollow to be filled where it chips off. A hook scarf (?) would work but it would be a lot more work.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Crandall
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 11:10 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Digest Number 3736--Butt Joined Plywood
"Peter Lenihan" wrote:
> Check out this link:
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/micro2/index.htm
>
> and scroll about half way down the article to see one possible route
> that may interest you regarding the joining of two 1/2" MDO > panels. It worked well for me :-)
I like the method. I have joined plywood sheets in a roughly similar
manner, and agree with you that it works quite well.
My problem with it here is twofold. First, I foolishly joined one of my
MDO sheets to the frame already, using epoxy and stainless screws. I can't router-out the rabbit after-the-fact, alas.
Second, I don't have any 1/4" MDO (and would have to special order it, and it would be one-sided which would probably be OK, but the "bad side" of one-sided MDO is extraordinarily awful--wild grain, large open knots, etc.). I do not wish to sacrifice the marvelous finish on MDO--it's practically ready for a high gloss paint.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
"Peter Lenihan" wrote:
manner, and agree with you that it works quite well.
My problem with it here is twofold. First, I foolishly joined one of my
MDO sheets to the frame already, using epoxy and stainless screws. I
can't router-out the rabbit after-the-fat, alas. Second, I don't have
any 1/4" MDO (and would have to special order it, and it would be
one-sided which would probably be OK, but the "bad side" of one-sided
MDO is extraordinarily awful--wild grain, large open knots, etc.). I do
not wish to sacrifice the marvelous finish on MDO--it's practically
ready for a high gloss paint.
"Bill Kreamer" wrote
while screwing in the cleats. The use of the rope is something that
hadn't occurred to me, which is silly since I have already tested out
the length of my straps (which don't fit). Rope is cheap, too, compared
to three 8-foot lengths of black pipe.
Thanks guys!
> Check out this link:I like the method. I have joined plywood sheets in a roughly similar
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/micro2/index.htm
>
> and scroll about half way down the article to see one possible route
> that may interest you regarding the joining of two 1/2" MDO panels.
> It worked well for me :-)
manner, and agree with you that it works quite well.
My problem with it here is twofold. First, I foolishly joined one of my
MDO sheets to the frame already, using epoxy and stainless screws. I
can't router-out the rabbit after-the-fat, alas. Second, I don't have
any 1/4" MDO (and would have to special order it, and it would be
one-sided which would probably be OK, but the "bad side" of one-sided
MDO is extraordinarily awful--wild grain, large open knots, etc.). I do
not wish to sacrifice the marvelous finish on MDO--it's practically
ready for a high gloss paint.
"Bill Kreamer" wrote
> Install a minimum of overhanging cleats on one side of the joint to alignThis could work very well, I think, especially if I don't mangle the MDO
> the joint. Butter the panel edges with thickened epoxy, assemble, and screw
> the second panel to the frame with just a few screws at first. Then pass a
> rope loop around the work in the same direction as you would a clamp. Drive
> a wedge under the rope, at one panel edge away from the joint, but not too
> tightly. Then put in the rest of the frame screws. If possible, remove the
> cleats and weight or force the butt joint against a flat surface, using poly
> sheet to prevent sticking. Good luck.
while screwing in the cleats. The use of the rope is something that
hadn't occurred to me, which is silly since I have already tested out
the length of my straps (which don't fit). Rope is cheap, too, compared
to three 8-foot lengths of black pipe.
Thanks guys!