Re: [bolger] Re: single handed schooner build questions
thank you Bruce and also "nels" - I now have the info I need
----- Original Message ----
From: Bruce Hallman <bruce@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2007 11:05:34 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: single handed schooner build questions
ISBN-10: 0070063761
In the chapter titled 'His and Her Schooner'.
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----- Original Message ----
From: Bruce Hallman <bruce@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2007 11:05:34 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: single handed schooner build questions
> > Where can I find study plans of this "single-handed" schooner?See pages 121-124 of Phil Bolger's book Boats With an Open Mind.
ISBN-10: 0070063761
In the chapter titled 'His and Her Schooner'.
____________________________________________________________________________________Ready for the edge of your seat?
Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo.com/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > Where can I find study plans of this "single-handed" schooner?See pages 121-124 of Phil Bolger's book Boats With an Open Mind.
ISBN-10: 0070063761
In the chapter titled 'His and Her Schooner'.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Richard Johnson
<rishar_johnson2001@...> wrote:
http://www.instantboats.com/ordercatalog.htm
You might want to consider ordering his build book as well:
http://www.instantboats.com/btnib.htm
It doesn't have the instructions for the SHS but does for the Light
Schooner which is similar in basic building methods, except easier in
my opinion.
I think you can oder by phone and a Credit Card.
He lives just next door to you in Maine:-)
Nels
<rishar_johnson2001@...> wrote:
>From Dynamite Payson, who also sells the plans.
> Where can I find study plans of this "single-handed" schooner?
>
> Richard Johnson, Riverview, NB
>
http://www.instantboats.com/ordercatalog.htm
You might want to consider ordering his build book as well:
http://www.instantboats.com/btnib.htm
It doesn't have the instructions for the SHS but does for the Light
Schooner which is similar in basic building methods, except easier in
my opinion.
I think you can oder by phone and a Credit Card.
He lives just next door to you in Maine:-)
Nels
Where can I find study plans of this "single-handed" schooner?
Richard Johnson, Riverview, NB
----- Original Message ----
From: Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 4:35:00 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: single handed schooner build questions
Richard Johnson, Riverview, NB
----- Original Message ----
From: Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 4:35:00 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: single handed schooner build questions
--- In bolger@yahoogroups. com, Chris Kottaridis <chriskot@.. .> wrote:
>
> I don't think I am supposed to cut the panels
> curved.
You're not.
> 2. Do I glue the chine log to the panel before connecting the
> panel to the bulkheads or do I connect the panels to the bulkheads
> and then slide the chine log in between the panel and the bulkheads
> later ?
Fasten the sides to the bulkheads first, then add the chine logs
later. One of the bolger photo groups has construction photos of my
boat in the Photos section.
> I'd also be interested if someone has a good idea what the end
> trailer weight will be
The boat is designed to weigh about as much as a Laser, with the
removable keel just about doubling that figure. Mine weighs more --
at least 200 pounds, if not 250 -- because I sheathed it in multiple
layers of xynole and added under-deck flotation to allow operation in
remote areas.
> Also, can I use a standard canoe trailer for this boat or
> will I need to get some kind of custom trailer made ?
I use a recycled Y-Flyer trailer from a beat-up old boat that I got
for free for hauling it away. If you scrounge around, you might be
able to find a similar sort of thing.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@yahoo. com>
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Try building a quick scale model.
Work at the scale of 1 inch equals 1 foot, using scissors, tape and
some thick paper.
In no time you will figure out in your mind's eye how to build that
boat full size.
Have fun!
Work at the scale of 1 inch equals 1 foot, using scissors, tape and
some thick paper.
In no time you will figure out in your mind's eye how to build that
boat full size.
Have fun!
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Chris Kottaridis <chriskot@...> wrote:
I have never built this boat nor have the plans but if it is
anything in shape like the Bolger SURF, then the answer to your
above question is yes, since the flare of the bulkheads will
introduce sheer into the straight sided panels as they get bent
around the bulkheads.
success by many builders, you may find it "easier" to let in your
chine logs first into the notches cut in the bulkheads.Once you are
satified that all is true and fair, it will be a breeze to hang the
side panels and the already installed chine logs will serve well as
a handy clamping surface to hold the panel in place while you check
for final fairness and while waiting for the epoxy to kick.
You are using a strong back for setting your bulkheads up,aren't
you?.This too will be of great benefit if you are working alone,in
short spurts of time and wish to keep things square and true.
Hope this helps! Sorry I cannot help with your last question but I
trust that others will soon jump in with better answers :-)
Don't forget to post a picture or two....always appreciated by us
nuts,you know!
Good luck with your build!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
>> Is it right that I should cut the side panels in a perfectstraight line
> 16" wide ?Chris,
I have never built this boat nor have the plans but if it is
anything in shape like the Bolger SURF, then the answer to your
above question is yes, since the flare of the bulkheads will
introduce sheer into the straight sided panels as they get bent
around the bulkheads.
> 2. Do I glue the chine log to the panel before connecting thepanel to
> the bulkheads or do I connect the panels to the bulkheads and thenslide
> the chine log in between the panel and the bulkheads later ?Although this has been done in different ways with apparent
success by many builders, you may find it "easier" to let in your
chine logs first into the notches cut in the bulkheads.Once you are
satified that all is true and fair, it will be a breeze to hang the
side panels and the already installed chine logs will serve well as
a handy clamping surface to hold the panel in place while you check
for final fairness and while waiting for the epoxy to kick.
You are using a strong back for setting your bulkheads up,aren't
you?.This too will be of great benefit if you are working alone,in
short spurts of time and wish to keep things square and true.
Hope this helps! Sorry I cannot help with your last question but I
trust that others will soon jump in with better answers :-)
Don't forget to post a picture or two....always appreciated by us
nuts,you know!
Good luck with your build!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
>trailer
>
> I'd also be interested if someone has a good idea what the end
> weight will be and also what the displacement is at the designedor
> waterline. Also, can I use a standard canoe trailer for this boat
> will I need to get some kind of custom trailer made ?
>
> Thanks
> Chris Kottaridis (chriskot@...)
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Chris Kottaridis <chriskot@...> wrote:
later. One of the bolger photo groups has construction photos of my
boat in the Photos section.
removable keel just about doubling that figure. Mine weighs more --
at least 200 pounds, if not 250 -- because I sheathed it in multiple
layers of xynole and added under-deck flotation to allow operation in
remote areas.
for free for hauling it away. If you scrounge around, you might be
able to find a similar sort of thing.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
>You're not.
> I don't think I am supposed to cut the panels
> curved.
> 2. Do I glue the chine log to the panel before connecting theFasten the sides to the bulkheads first, then add the chine logs
> panel to the bulkheads or do I connect the panels to the bulkheads
> and then slide the chine log in between the panel and the bulkheads
> later ?
later. One of the bolger photo groups has construction photos of my
boat in the Photos section.
> I'd also be interested if someone has a good idea what the endThe boat is designed to weigh about as much as a Laser, with the
> trailer weight will be
removable keel just about doubling that figure. Mine weighs more --
at least 200 pounds, if not 250 -- because I sheathed it in multiple
layers of xynole and added under-deck flotation to allow operation in
remote areas.
> Also, can I use a standard canoe trailer for this boat orI use a recycled Y-Flyer trailer from a beat-up old boat that I got
> will I need to get some kind of custom trailer made ?
for free for hauling it away. If you scrounge around, you might be
able to find a similar sort of thing.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
I have my bulkheads mostly done and am working on the side panels for
the single-handed schooner and I have 2 build questions.
1. On one of the sheets it shows the panels. The top picture shows the
panels as 16" wide constant size with straight line edges and has
markings on where the various bulkheads and butt blocks go.
The one underneath it shows the same panel side, but the edges are
curved and it shows distances of the curved edge from a baseline at
various points along the edge.
Now I am pretty sure I want to cut the panels straight 16" wide as shown
in the top diagram. The one underneath it just shows what the
anticipated sheer line will be after wrapping the straight panels around
the 14 degree bulkheads. I don't think I am supposed to cut the panels
curved. I think I am supposed to cut them straight and then the curve
will happen when I wrap the panels around the angled bulkheads.
Is it right that I should cut the side panels in a perfect straight line
16" wide ?
2. Do I glue the chine log to the panel before connecting the panel to
the bulkheads or do I connect the panels to the bulkheads and then slide
the chine log in between the panel and the bulkheads later ?
I'd also be interested if someone has a good idea what the end trailer
weight will be and also what the displacement is at the designed
waterline. Also, can I use a standard canoe trailer for this boat or
will I need to get some kind of custom trailer made ?
Thanks
Chris Kottaridis (chriskot@...)
the single-handed schooner and I have 2 build questions.
1. On one of the sheets it shows the panels. The top picture shows the
panels as 16" wide constant size with straight line edges and has
markings on where the various bulkheads and butt blocks go.
The one underneath it shows the same panel side, but the edges are
curved and it shows distances of the curved edge from a baseline at
various points along the edge.
Now I am pretty sure I want to cut the panels straight 16" wide as shown
in the top diagram. The one underneath it just shows what the
anticipated sheer line will be after wrapping the straight panels around
the 14 degree bulkheads. I don't think I am supposed to cut the panels
curved. I think I am supposed to cut them straight and then the curve
will happen when I wrap the panels around the angled bulkheads.
Is it right that I should cut the side panels in a perfect straight line
16" wide ?
2. Do I glue the chine log to the panel before connecting the panel to
the bulkheads or do I connect the panels to the bulkheads and then slide
the chine log in between the panel and the bulkheads later ?
I'd also be interested if someone has a good idea what the end trailer
weight will be and also what the displacement is at the designed
waterline. Also, can I use a standard canoe trailer for this boat or
will I need to get some kind of custom trailer made ?
Thanks
Chris Kottaridis (chriskot@...)