Re: Tomboy
Tomboy is sold to a new owner in the South Puget Sound. Contact me if you want to see her or perhaps go for a sail.
Paul
Paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "prairiedog2332" <arvent@...> wrote:
>
> Freshly painted and up for sale again! Nice video and details at the
> 4Sale site.
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger4Sale/message/915
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger4Sale/message/915>
>
>
> Nels
>
Freshly painted and up for sale again! Nice video and details at the 4Sale site.
Nels
Now John I post the same thing on our messabout group after signing of
a post the same day and no one thought anything of it. Even you sign
with some political things but I am humbal enough to laugh at myself
when poked with a stick. Need more blue Jelly Beans?
Jon
The sign of a true leader is not one that follows the croud but seeks
the truth. R.R.
a post the same day and no one thought anything of it. Even you sign
with some political things but I am humbal enough to laugh at myself
when poked with a stick. Need more blue Jelly Beans?
Jon
The sign of a true leader is not one that follows the croud but seeks
the truth. R.R.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John Kohnen" <jhkohnen@...> wrote:
>
> The best thing to do when someone posts something inappropriate is
to
> _ignore_ them and not post a reply online. If you've just _gotta_
say
> something, say it in a private email. I'm pleased to see that Jon
has
> learned that lesson; you wouldn't believe how hard I worked to beat
it
> into his thick skull over on the Messabout group! ;o)
>
> (Good thing that Jon, like David Graybeal, thrives on abuse <G>)
> John <jkohnen@...>
> The denunciation of the young is a necessary part of the hygiene
> of older people, and greatly assists the circulation of the
> blood. <Logan Pearsall Smith>
>
The best thing to do when someone posts something inappropriate is to
_ignore_ them and not post a reply online. If you've just _gotta_ say
something, say it in a private email. I'm pleased to see that Jon has
learned that lesson; you wouldn't believe how hard I worked to beat it
into his thick skull over on the Messabout group! ;o)
(Good thing that Jon, like David Graybeal, thrives on abuse <G>)
_ignore_ them and not post a reply online. If you've just _gotta_ say
something, say it in a private email. I'm pleased to see that Jon has
learned that lesson; you wouldn't believe how hard I worked to beat it
into his thick skull over on the Messabout group! ;o)
(Good thing that Jon, like David Graybeal, thrives on abuse <G>)
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 07:32:51 -0700, JJ wrote:
>
> Regardless of what your political stance I support your right to
> believe what ever you like. BUT, is this the place for airing your
> political beliefs.
--
John <jkohnen@...>
The denunciation of the young is a necessary part of the hygiene
of older people, and greatly assists the circulation of the
blood. <Logan Pearsall Smith>
I must say I am sorry for starting the global warming thing with my
sign off. But I thank those that gave a link to NZ for my personal use.
My profile is filled out so people can easly get in touch off line and
I say little I won't defend so I don't hide behind a blank profile. The
subject was "Tomcat" epoxy and wood choices the sign of was for those
that want to chat off topic on the subject or just for hummer.
Never hideing
Jon
sign off. But I thank those that gave a link to NZ for my personal use.
My profile is filled out so people can easly get in touch off line and
I say little I won't defend so I don't hide behind a blank profile. The
subject was "Tomcat" epoxy and wood choices the sign of was for those
that want to chat off topic on the subject or just for hummer.
Never hideing
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "paull01" <paull01@...> wrote:
What I'd love to do, would be to
> come up with a tabernacle setup like Roger is using in his Chebacco.
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/tabernacle.html
>
> I think it could be done, but I'd probably check with Phil to see
> what it'd involve. I think I'm a bit constrained by the fwd hatch for
> that massive a width. The mizzen'd be easier to fold fwd like a
> Jochems Schooner.
>
> Paul
> Seattle
I have been reflecting on how one could install a tabernacle for the
main mast on Tomboy, and it sure does appear to be a quandary. Kind of
unfortunate the mast had not been on the centerline behind a
centerline located forward hatch in the original design. That way it
might be possible to tilt the mast through the open hatchway.
Perhaps a super lightweight carbon fiber mast and a gin pole
arrangement would be the cheapest way to go in the long run.
If you get to discuss it with Suzanne I want to hear about it. Be
prepared to also install a steel plate on the bottom with 2 inches of
insulation everywhere:-)
Good luck and thanks for the update.
Nels
OOPS Sorry Greg for posting my last post.
Kristine
--- ghartc <gregg.carlson@...> wrote:
Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today!http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7
Kristine
--- ghartc <gregg.carlson@...> wrote:
> Here are the Bolger list rules:____________________________________________________________________________________
>
> "Discussing, building, using Phil Bolger's boat
> designs and similar.
>
> "This is a spam-free, on topic group - pretty much
> anything boating,
> "design, or building related is fair game. Don't
> repost Spam. Spammers
> "and flamers will be bounced off.
>
> "Bolger rules!!!
> "- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!!
> "- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming,
> respamming, or flogging
> "dead horses
> "- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> thanks, Fred' "posts
>
> I am going to go back and delete the off-topic posts
> having nothing to
> do with boats.
>
> Please DO NOT perpetuate this thread.
>
> Thanks, Moderator
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Michael Wagner
> <willers32@...> wrote:
> >
> > I agree that this is not a political forum, but
> the global warming
> hoax is going to have a tremendous impact on all of
> us as boaters. As
> "carbon trading" comes into play the cost of fuel
> will skyrocket. And
> it's all for nothing. It's a hoax. For information
> on the real state
> of climate science, see:
> >
> >http://www.nzclimatescience.org/
> >
> > There are numerous links to articles and
> scientific papers that
> dispute the IPCC conclusions that global warming is
> man made.
> >
> > I highly recommend a book called "The Chilling
> Stars" by Calder and
> Svensmark. It details recent research by Danish
> scientists that prove
> that climate change is more closely related to
> sunspots and cosmic
> rays than CO2 levels.
> >
> > Also, do a google search for EG Beck, who has
> collected massive
> amounts of data that show that CO2 levels have been
> MUCH higher than
> today at various times in the last 180 years,
> without any runaway
> greenhouse effect.
> >
> >
> >
> > JJ Johnson <jjoftheusa@...> wrote:
>
> > Regardless of what your political stance I
> support your right to
> > believe what ever you like. BUT, is this the
> place for airing your
> > political beliefs.
> >
> > >
> > > Actually John, if you would have been reading
> the science press in
> > the
> > > last few months you would have seen many
> articles about Mars and its
> > > warming process. And as a man of science, Al
> Gore would not
> > dispute
> > > that process at all. A VAST majority of
> scientists agree about what
> > > is happening on the planet. It's the type of
> majority that is much
> > > different than the razor thin "majority" that
> our current science
> > and
> > > reason hating "administration" received with
> they slithered into
> > office.
> > >
> > > Chris Curtis
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jon &
> Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@>
> > wrote:
> > > >
> > >
> > > > Jon
> > > >
> > > > NASA finds Mars is warming too I wounder how
> Al explanes that.
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with
> an Edge to see
> what's on, when.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> >
>
>
>
Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today!http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7
Thank you JJ for saying that, and I agree with your
post.
I have been keeping an eye on the whole globle warming
thing and it looks to me it's nothing but a political
football. Also the one thing that is not even wispered
about, is the FACT that the sun has a greater output
then 40 years ago.
They are also seeing the icecaps on a number planets
melting as well. I'm sure that is not man caused.
I as a rule don't get into the political B.S. and I
feel this it not the place for it. In the past I have
seen a couple of posts that had political overtones
and thought it best to say nothing.
We are here to talk about boats, namely Phil Bolger
and Friends designs and boating as a whole.
Krissie
--- JJ Johnson <jjoftheusa@...> wrote:
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
post.
I have been keeping an eye on the whole globle warming
thing and it looks to me it's nothing but a political
football. Also the one thing that is not even wispered
about, is the FACT that the sun has a greater output
then 40 years ago.
They are also seeing the icecaps on a number planets
melting as well. I'm sure that is not man caused.
I as a rule don't get into the political B.S. and I
feel this it not the place for it. In the past I have
seen a couple of posts that had political overtones
and thought it best to say nothing.
We are here to talk about boats, namely Phil Bolger
and Friends designs and boating as a whole.
Krissie
--- JJ Johnson <jjoftheusa@...> wrote:
>____________________________________________________________________________________
> Regardless of what your political stance I support
> your right to
> believe what ever you like. BUT, is this the place
> for airing your
> political beliefs.
>
>
> >
> > Actually John, if you would have been reading the
> science press in
> the
> > last few months you would have seen many articles
> about Mars and its
> > warming process. And as a man of science, Al
> Gore would not
> dispute
> > that process at all. A VAST majority of
> scientists agree about what
> > is happening on the planet. It's the type of
> majority that is much
> > different than the razor thin "majority" that our
> current science
> and
> > reason hating "administration" received with they
> slithered into
> office.
> >
> > Chris Curtis
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)"
> <windyjon@>
> wrote:
> > >
> >
> > > Jon
> > >
> > > NASA finds Mars is warming too I wounder how Al
> explanes that.
> > >
> >
>
>
>
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
I'll admit it. It's a conspiracy by us rag-sailors to quiet the waters and eliminate wakes.
I agree that it's a hoax, but isn't it the cleverest power grab you've ever seen? Taking charge of an individual's medical care pales by comparison with being able to tax their every exhalation. Even the church's monopoly on birth, death and sex is trivial by comparison.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
I agree that it's a hoax, but isn't it the cleverest power grab you've ever seen? Taking charge of an individual's medical care pales by comparison with being able to tax their every exhalation. Even the church's monopoly on birth, death and sex is trivial by comparison.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Wagner
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Tomboy
I agree that this is not a political forum, but the global warming hoax is going to have a tremendous impact on all of us as boaters. As "carbon trading" comes into play the cost of fuel will skyrocket. And it's all for nothing. It's a hoax. For information on the real state of climate science, see:
http://www.nzclimatescience.org/
There are numerous links to articles and scientific papers that dispute the IPCC conclusions that global warming is man made.
I highly recommend a book called "The Chilling Stars" by Calder and Svensmark. It details recent research by Danish scientists that prove that climate change is more closely related to sunspots and cosmic rays than CO2 levels.
Also, do a google search for EG Beck, who has collected massive amounts of data that show that CO2 levels have been MUCH higher than today at various times in the last 180 years, without any runaway greenhouse effect.
JJ Johnson <jjoftheusa@...> wrote:
Regardless of what your political stance I support your right to
believe what ever you like. BUT, is this the place for airing your
political beliefs.
>
> Actually John, if you would have been reading the science press in
the
> last few months you would have seen many articles about Mars and its
> warming process. And as a man of science, Al Gore would not
dispute
> that process at all. A VAST majority of scientists agree about what
> is happening on the planet. It's the type of majority that is much
> different than the razor thin "majority" that our current science
and
> reason hating "administration" received with they slithered into
office.
>
> Chris Curtis
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@>
wrote:
> >
>
> > Jon
> >
> > NASA finds Mars is warming too I wounder how Al explanes that.
> >
>
---------------------------------
Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Here are the Bolger list rules:
"Discussing, building, using Phil Bolger's boat designs and similar.
"This is a spam-free, on topic group - pretty much anything boating,
"design, or building related is fair game. Don't repost Spam. Spammers
"and flamers will be bounced off.
"Bolger rules!!!
"- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!!
"- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging
"dead horses
"- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' "posts
I am going to go back and delete the off-topic posts having nothing to
do with boats.
Please DO NOT perpetuate this thread.
Thanks, Moderator
"Discussing, building, using Phil Bolger's boat designs and similar.
"This is a spam-free, on topic group - pretty much anything boating,
"design, or building related is fair game. Don't repost Spam. Spammers
"and flamers will be bounced off.
"Bolger rules!!!
"- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!!
"- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging
"dead horses
"- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' "posts
I am going to go back and delete the off-topic posts having nothing to
do with boats.
Please DO NOT perpetuate this thread.
Thanks, Moderator
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Michael Wagner <willers32@...> wrote:
>
> I agree that this is not a political forum, but the global warming
hoax is going to have a tremendous impact on all of us as boaters. As
"carbon trading" comes into play the cost of fuel will skyrocket. And
it's all for nothing. It's a hoax. For information on the real state
of climate science, see:
>
>http://www.nzclimatescience.org/
>
> There are numerous links to articles and scientific papers that
dispute the IPCC conclusions that global warming is man made.
>
> I highly recommend a book called "The Chilling Stars" by Calder and
Svensmark. It details recent research by Danish scientists that prove
that climate change is more closely related to sunspots and cosmic
rays than CO2 levels.
>
> Also, do a google search for EG Beck, who has collected massive
amounts of data that show that CO2 levels have been MUCH higher than
today at various times in the last 180 years, without any runaway
greenhouse effect.
>
>
>
> JJ Johnson <jjoftheusa@...> wrote:
> Regardless of what your political stance I support your right to
> believe what ever you like. BUT, is this the place for airing your
> political beliefs.
>
> >
> > Actually John, if you would have been reading the science press in
> the
> > last few months you would have seen many articles about Mars and its
> > warming process. And as a man of science, Al Gore would not
> dispute
> > that process at all. A VAST majority of scientists agree about what
> > is happening on the planet. It's the type of majority that is much
> > different than the razor thin "majority" that our current science
> and
> > reason hating "administration" received with they slithered into
> office.
> >
> > Chris Curtis
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@>
> wrote:
> > >
> >
> > > Jon
> > >
> > > NASA finds Mars is warming too I wounder how Al explanes that.
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see
what's on, when.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
I agree that this is not a political forum, but the global warming hoax is going to have a tremendous impact on all of us as boaters. As "carbon trading" comes into play the cost of fuel will skyrocket. And it's all for nothing. It's a hoax. For information on the real state of climate science, see:
http://www.nzclimatescience.org/
There are numerous links to articles and scientific papers that dispute the IPCC conclusions that global warming is man made.
I highly recommend a book called "The Chilling Stars" by Calder and Svensmark. It details recent research by Danish scientists that prove that climate change is more closely related to sunspots and cosmic rays than CO2 levels.
Also, do a google search for EG Beck, who has collected massive amounts of data that show that CO2 levels have been MUCH higher than today at various times in the last 180 years, without any runaway greenhouse effect.
JJ Johnson <jjoftheusa@...> wrote:
Regardless of what your political stance I support your right to
believe what ever you like. BUT, is this the place for airing your
political beliefs.
Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
http://www.nzclimatescience.org/
There are numerous links to articles and scientific papers that dispute the IPCC conclusions that global warming is man made.
I highly recommend a book called "The Chilling Stars" by Calder and Svensmark. It details recent research by Danish scientists that prove that climate change is more closely related to sunspots and cosmic rays than CO2 levels.
Also, do a google search for EG Beck, who has collected massive amounts of data that show that CO2 levels have been MUCH higher than today at various times in the last 180 years, without any runaway greenhouse effect.
JJ Johnson <jjoftheusa@...> wrote:
Regardless of what your political stance I support your right to
believe what ever you like. BUT, is this the place for airing your
political beliefs.
>the
> Actually John, if you would have been reading the science press in
> last few months you would have seen many articles about Mars and itsdispute
> warming process. And as a man of science, Al Gore would not
> that process at all. A VAST majority of scientists agree about whatand
> is happening on the planet. It's the type of majority that is much
> different than the razor thin "majority" that our current science
> reason hating "administration" received with they slithered intooffice.
>wrote:
> Chris Curtis
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@>
> >---------------------------------
>
> > Jon
> >
> > NASA finds Mars is warming too I wounder how Al explanes that.
> >
>
Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
On this site, the builder touts "underlayment" and has built some long
lasting work skiffs from it. IMO it will be quite a bit less than $70
per sheet.
Don Schultz
>I've
> I swoon when I think of the Tomboy Jessie Cooper.
>
> > Question is, what materials and methods to use for the repair.
> > used some AB marine fir ply to repair the topsides. I got that 1/2knows
> > inch stuff from Dunn Lumber here in Seattle. It seems to be pretty
> > bulletproof, but at about $70 a sheet, I'm wondering if anyone
> > of a cheaper supply.http://www.oldwharf.com/ow_building20lys.html
>
On this site, the builder touts "underlayment" and has built some long
lasting work skiffs from it. IMO it will be quite a bit less than $70
per sheet.
Don Schultz
> Garth, I'm curious as to what hardener you used. It looks like forI used the 3:1 medium-speed stuff. Here's a great method of measuring,
> their medium speed stuff you've gotta mix at a 3:1 ratio. That could
> twist my brain a bit.
which I think I learned here on this group. (Was it from David Romano?
Hmm. People should get credit for their good ideas -- but my memory is
like Swiss cheese.) Anyway -- I use clear plastic drinking cups,
available at your local grocery cheap. You nest one cup inside the
other. In your kitchen, measure water into the inner cup. Using
whatever unit will add up to a useful total -- i.e. tablespoon,
double-tbs, 1/4 cup, whatever -- pour in 3 units. Mark the outside cup
at that level with a permanent marker. Then pour in 1 more unit. Mark
that level. So now you have a measuring cup -- the outside one -- that
you use over and over. You fill with resin to the first mark. Then
pour in hardener to the second mark. The inner cup gets disposed of
after each batch. I actually would make my measurer have three
different scales, for small, medium, and large batches, with each
scale placed on a different side of the cup. If I'm making big batches
maybe I'll buy 16 oz. cups, and if I know I'll need a lot of little
batches, I'll buy 12 oz. In any case, it's a fairly accurate method
and I never had any trouble with it. If you're doing repeat batches,
your outer cup will eventually get an epoxy crust on it (from lifting
out the inner cup each time) that prevents the inner cup from settling
in properly. So, eventually the measurer must be discarded, too. If
you have a big project coming up, just make three or four of the
measurers and you're set for a good long time.
> How are your spars holding up? I did get the plans for Cormorant andI made my spars hollow-birdsmouth style. They're holding up great.
> saw the masts were a bit smaller than Tomboys. To get the 2" by 5.5"
> pieces called for in the main mast, I was just quoted $21.50 for a
> 10foot "Number 1 better Doug Fir 3x6" which includes planing down the
> 2.5" by a half inch. I suppose I'd need 4 to 6 of those plus some
> 2x stuff to complete the mainmast. What I'd love to do, would be to
> come up with a tabernacle setup like Roger is using in his Chebacco.
>http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/tabernacle.html
Much easier to build them up from regular 2x4s that way. If you have
the Cormorant plans, you have plans for its tabernacle, which works
beautifully.
> I think it could be done, but I'd probably check with Phil to see
> what it'd involve. I think I'm a bit constrained by the fwd hatch for
> that massive a width. The mizzen'd be easier to fold fwd like a
> Jochems Schooner.
>
> Paul
> Seattle
>
No need to buy big bucks for pumps They have the 1 ounce ones that
fir the 5 gallon spout. The same pump fits all the sizes you just cut
the tube for the smaller ones. Ask when you order and thay will give
a price. The 5 Gallons come with out because they have to be pacaged
seperate for shipping. To let you know I have used a lot from J.
Grear (Aromarine) The red 1-1 is for glueing and the green for cold
molding and layup. The red will blush the green won't. The red needs
cleaned to coated over the the green needs to be sanded if fully
cured and wiped down. E- in profile if you want more info.
Sternwheeler on Columbia build
Jon
NASA finds Mars is warming too I wounder how Al explanes that.
fir the 5 gallon spout. The same pump fits all the sizes you just cut
the tube for the smaller ones. Ask when you order and thay will give
a price. The 5 Gallons come with out because they have to be pacaged
seperate for shipping. To let you know I have used a lot from J.
Grear (Aromarine) The red 1-1 is for glueing and the green for cold
molding and layup. The red will blush the green won't. The red needs
cleaned to coated over the the green needs to be sanded if fully
cured and wiped down. E- in profile if you want more info.
Sternwheeler on Columbia build
Jon
NASA finds Mars is warming too I wounder how Al explanes that.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Paul and hello from the San Juan Islands. A friend
> took two gama lids and made it so he could put the
> pumps in the twist out part of the lid. Before that he
> would just pour out of the 5 gal bucket into smaller
> jugs that he had pumps for.
>
> But that got old if he was doing a large layup.
>
> You can also get epoxy pumps from Aircraft Spruce and
> they have them listed for 267 dollars plus shipping.
>
> I can get you the part number if you want.
>
> Krissie
>
> --- paull01 <paull01@...> wrote:
>
> > Wow! even better prices, and a West Coast supplier
> > to boot. With their
> > quote of $65 for shipping and handling, that comes
> > to $337 for 10gal.
> > Thirty four bucks a gallon - whoohoo - not bad. Now
> > my question is, how
> > do you handle epoxy out of those big 5 gallon
> > buckets....
> >
> >
> > Paul
> > Seattle
> >
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
> that gives answers, not web links.
>http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
>
Hi Paul and hello from the San Juan Islands. A friend
took two gama lids and made it so he could put the
pumps in the twist out part of the lid. Before that he
would just pour out of the 5 gal bucket into smaller
jugs that he had pumps for.
But that got old if he was doing a large layup.
You can also get epoxy pumps from Aircraft Spruce and
they have them listed for 267 dollars plus shipping.
I can get you the part number if you want.
Krissie
--- paull01 <paull01@...> wrote:
Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
that gives answers, not web links.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
took two gama lids and made it so he could put the
pumps in the twist out part of the lid. Before that he
would just pour out of the 5 gal bucket into smaller
jugs that he had pumps for.
But that got old if he was doing a large layup.
You can also get epoxy pumps from Aircraft Spruce and
they have them listed for 267 dollars plus shipping.
I can get you the part number if you want.
Krissie
--- paull01 <paull01@...> wrote:
> Wow! even better prices, and a West Coast supplier____________________________________________________________________________________
> to boot. With their
> quote of $65 for shipping and handling, that comes
> to $337 for 10gal.
> Thirty four bucks a gallon - whoohoo - not bad. Now
> my question is, how
> do you handle epoxy out of those big 5 gallon
> buckets....
>
>
> Paul
> Seattle
>
Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
that gives answers, not web links.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
The price you are quoating is for the one that is best for glueng the
non blushing that is higher on the page is better for glassing and
coating though a little more in cost. As for pumps the ones that fit
the gallon fit the tops on the 5 gallon just a little longer pic up
tube.
Jon
non blushing that is higher on the page is better for glassing and
coating though a little more in cost. As for pumps the ones that fit
the gallon fit the tops on the 5 gallon just a little longer pic up
tube.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "paull01" <paull01@...> wrote:
>
> Wow! even better prices, and a West Coast supplier to boot. With
their
> quote of $65 for shipping and handling, that comes to $337 for
10gal.
> Thirty four bucks a gallon - whoohoo - not bad. Now my question is,
how
> do you handle epoxy out of those big 5 gallon buckets....
>
>
> Paul
> Seattle
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robb" <Robb@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi......thats not that great of a deal......the epoxy that I use
all
> the time is $274 for 10 gallons plus shipping. This is GOOD
epoxy.
> Here's the phone number:
> > (877)342-8860
> > www.jgreer.com
> > Robb
> >
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "GarthAB" <garth@...> wrote:
their medium speed stuff you've gotta mix at a 3:1 ratio. That could
twist my brain a bit.
How are your spars holding up? I did get the plans for Cormorant and
saw the masts were a bit smaller than Tomboys. To get the 2" by 5.5"
pieces called for in the main mast, I was just quoted $21.50 for a
10foot "Number 1 better Doug Fir 3x6" which includes planing down the
2.5" by a half inch. I suppose I'd need 4 to 6 of those plus some
2x stuff to complete the mainmast. What I'd love to do, would be to
come up with a tabernacle setup like Roger is using in his Chebacco.
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/tabernacle.html
I think it could be done, but I'd probably check with Phil to see
what it'd involve. I think I'm a bit constrained by the fwd hatch for
that massive a width. The mizzen'd be easier to fold fwd like a
Jochems Schooner.
Paul
Seattle
>Garth, I'm curious as to what hardener you used. It looks like for
> U.S. Composites offers very good epoxy for around$30 per gallon in
> larger batches -- that's not counting shipping. The 15 gallon kit of
> 2:1 (10 gal. resin, 5 gal. hardener) is $454. They ship out of
> Florida, so your shipping costs go up as you get farther away.
>
>http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html
their medium speed stuff you've gotta mix at a 3:1 ratio. That could
twist my brain a bit.
>very
> I used a lot of that stuff in Cormorant, and it's all holding up
> nicely, after some hard use (trailering long distances, livingthrough
> sub-zero winters and hot summers, some nasty wave-slamming now andthen).
How are your spars holding up? I did get the plans for Cormorant and
saw the masts were a bit smaller than Tomboys. To get the 2" by 5.5"
pieces called for in the main mast, I was just quoted $21.50 for a
10foot "Number 1 better Doug Fir 3x6" which includes planing down the
2.5" by a half inch. I suppose I'd need 4 to 6 of those plus some
2x stuff to complete the mainmast. What I'd love to do, would be to
come up with a tabernacle setup like Roger is using in his Chebacco.
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/tabernacle.html
I think it could be done, but I'd probably check with Phil to see
what it'd involve. I think I'm a bit constrained by the fwd hatch for
that massive a width. The mizzen'd be easier to fold fwd like a
Jochems Schooner.
Paul
Seattle
Wow! even better prices, and a West Coast supplier to boot. With their
quote of $65 for shipping and handling, that comes to $337 for 10gal.
Thirty four bucks a gallon - whoohoo - not bad. Now my question is, how
do you handle epoxy out of those big 5 gallon buckets....
Paul
Seattle
quote of $65 for shipping and handling, that comes to $337 for 10gal.
Thirty four bucks a gallon - whoohoo - not bad. Now my question is, how
do you handle epoxy out of those big 5 gallon buckets....
Paul
Seattle
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robb" <Robb@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi......thats not that great of a deal......the epoxy that I use all
the time is $274 for 10 gallons plus shipping. This is GOOD epoxy.
Here's the phone number:
> (877)342-8860
> www.jgreer.com
> Robb
>
U.S. Composites offers very good epoxy for around$30 per gallon in
larger batches -- that's not counting shipping. The 15 gallon kit of
2:1 (10 gal. resin, 5 gal. hardener) is $454. They ship out of
Florida, so your shipping costs go up as you get farther away.
http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html
I used a lot of that stuff in Cormorant, and it's all holding up very
nicely, after some hard use (trailering long distances, living through
sub-zero winters and hot summers, some nasty wave-slamming now and then).
I remember when I first ordered it I talked to one of the tech-support
guys there and asked, How does this differ from WEST epoxy? He replied
that if you compare it spec sheet for spec sheet, it's actually better
than WEST. For whatever that's worth. . . .
Garth
larger batches -- that's not counting shipping. The 15 gallon kit of
2:1 (10 gal. resin, 5 gal. hardener) is $454. They ship out of
Florida, so your shipping costs go up as you get farther away.
http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html
I used a lot of that stuff in Cormorant, and it's all holding up very
nicely, after some hard use (trailering long distances, living through
sub-zero winters and hot summers, some nasty wave-slamming now and then).
I remember when I first ordered it I talked to one of the tech-support
guys there and asked, How does this differ from WEST epoxy? He replied
that if you compare it spec sheet for spec sheet, it's actually better
than WEST. For whatever that's worth. . . .
Garth
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Robb" <Robb@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi......thats not that great of a deal......the epoxy that I use all
the time is $274 for 10 gallons plus shipping. This is GOOD epoxy.
Here's the phone number:
> (877)342-8860
> www.jgreer.com
> Robb
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jon & Wanda(Tink)
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 4:02 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Tomboy
>
>
> At Aromarine if you get the 15 gal it is $585 /free shipping that
works
> out less then $40/gal. The other thing is you are close to Olympic
Ply
> the largest maker of MDO in the world.
>
> Jon
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "paull01" <paull01@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks everyone for the quick response on the epoxy and wood. I'm
> > inclined to go with the cheapest stuff from CA. I think the website
> > quoted 80 something bucks to deliver the 10 gallon kit to Seattle,
> > which when added to $365 gives me something like 44 bucks a gallon.
> > Not too bad. Scince I hope to be doing the job in August, the
> > temperature should be ok. Might have to do it towards evening if we
> > get the kind of temps we've had lately.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Hi......thats not that great of a deal......the epoxy that I use all the time is $274 for 10 gallons plus shipping. This is GOOD epoxy. Here's the phone number:
(877)342-8860
www.jgreer.com
Robb
(877)342-8860
www.jgreer.com
Robb
----- Original Message -----
From: Jon & Wanda(Tink)
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 4:02 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Tomboy
At Aromarine if you get the 15 gal it is $585 /free shipping that works
out less then $40/gal. The other thing is you are close to Olympic Ply
the largest maker of MDO in the world.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "paull01" <paull01@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks everyone for the quick response on the epoxy and wood. I'm
> inclined to go with the cheapest stuff from CA. I think the website
> quoted 80 something bucks to deliver the 10 gallon kit to Seattle,
> which when added to $365 gives me something like 44 bucks a gallon.
> Not too bad. Scince I hope to be doing the job in August, the
> temperature should be ok. Might have to do it towards evening if we
> get the kind of temps we've had lately.
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
At Aromarine if you get the 15 gal it is $585 /free shipping that works
out less then $40/gal. The other thing is you are close to Olympic Ply
the largest maker of MDO in the world.
Jon
out less then $40/gal. The other thing is you are close to Olympic Ply
the largest maker of MDO in the world.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "paull01" <paull01@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks everyone for the quick response on the epoxy and wood. I'm
> inclined to go with the cheapest stuff from CA. I think the website
> quoted 80 something bucks to deliver the 10 gallon kit to Seattle,
> which when added to $365 gives me something like 44 bucks a gallon.
> Not too bad. Scince I hope to be doing the job in August, the
> temperature should be ok. Might have to do it towards evening if we
> get the kind of temps we've had lately.
>
Thanks everyone for the quick response on the epoxy and wood. I'm
inclined to go with the cheapest stuff from CA. I think the website
quoted 80 something bucks to deliver the 10 gallon kit to Seattle,
which when added to $365 gives me something like 44 bucks a gallon.
Not too bad. Scince I hope to be doing the job in August, the
temperature should be ok. Might have to do it towards evening if we
get the kind of temps we've had lately.
On plywood, I think that even Home Depot delivers plywood from
different mills to different locations around the country. I haven't
looked at their stuff lately, but I recall that it seemed to have
gotten pretty bad. Chuck used real good 5 ply stuff originally with
no voids that I can see. If I went with AC, I'd probably use the
stuff from McClendon's which I think is Hardell from Oregon and
pretty good. I did buy one 1/2 inch sheet for $40 from a store in
Ballard that claimed it was "fir underlayment for decking by
Hardell". I didn't see the Hardell markings, but it looked good.
However,when I tried to sand down the edges to scarph in a topside
piece, it splintered up like shredded wheat. The ply from Dunn has a
greenish tint, but I tried it anyway. It is real tough without voids
and could hold a razor sharp edge. I think I'm going to take a trip
down to Tacoma to visit Tacoma Plywood. They supply stores like Dunn
and beat their prices somewhat. They'll deliver too. Reguardless, I
want to stay with all doug fir which is how Tomboy was built in the
first place.
As to how Tomboy came to grief in the first place...in one
word, "Sweetwater". It looks like the mid-section bottom rotted from
the inside out. I've talked to Chuck, who is only a stones throw away
from Tomboy at South Park. Understandably, he doesn't want to talk
about her that much seeing the grief she's come to - I assume after
he sold her. I do believe that the original ingress of water came
from around the mast boot, because it looks like some repair work has
been done fwd to the floor area and topsides there. I found that
water was coming in from cracks in the drain channel surrounding the
hold area. Also where Chuck added battery cables for his outboard, it
looks like water seeped in through those openings at some point. I've
also got a mystery leak from somewhere up on deck that runs along the
portside of bulkhead #4. I've gotta check the seams up top before she
goes back out from under her tarp. I think poor topside seams were
what did in Oyster - the little 23' leeboard barge in Bothell.
The bottom was done with 3 layers of 1/2 inch ply originally and very
well it looks like. I didn't find any dings in the bottom epoxy after
removing the single layer of 10oz. cloth. The only gripe I'd have
with Chuck is his use of some ferrous nails. Wherever there've been
nails, even bronze ones to some degree, in conjunction with water
pooling on the inside, it looks like rot has had a quicker vector to
spread its vengeance. I may have to use bronze nails or screws to put
the bottom back on, but I'm inclined to just use drywall screws
temporarily and trust to the ferocity of the epoxy bond. I'm also of
the opinion that (re-)epoxy coating the bilges is the way to go.
Chuck had some bilge pumps in her, but it looks like they died
prematurely.
The masts, well, Chuck admits they were built of cheap stuff. I can
see that the grain interval on much of the masts approaches 1/4 inch.
Definitely not old growth. I think the yard and boom are a bit
better, at least the epoxy and varnish is still holding up. The sails
look to be pretty fresh, the mizzen sail is almost like new.
Well, scince it's pouring rain out, I'm off to Ohlsen Lumber to see
if I can drum up some 2" thick mast lumber.
Paul
Seattle, WA
inclined to go with the cheapest stuff from CA. I think the website
quoted 80 something bucks to deliver the 10 gallon kit to Seattle,
which when added to $365 gives me something like 44 bucks a gallon.
Not too bad. Scince I hope to be doing the job in August, the
temperature should be ok. Might have to do it towards evening if we
get the kind of temps we've had lately.
On plywood, I think that even Home Depot delivers plywood from
different mills to different locations around the country. I haven't
looked at their stuff lately, but I recall that it seemed to have
gotten pretty bad. Chuck used real good 5 ply stuff originally with
no voids that I can see. If I went with AC, I'd probably use the
stuff from McClendon's which I think is Hardell from Oregon and
pretty good. I did buy one 1/2 inch sheet for $40 from a store in
Ballard that claimed it was "fir underlayment for decking by
Hardell". I didn't see the Hardell markings, but it looked good.
However,when I tried to sand down the edges to scarph in a topside
piece, it splintered up like shredded wheat. The ply from Dunn has a
greenish tint, but I tried it anyway. It is real tough without voids
and could hold a razor sharp edge. I think I'm going to take a trip
down to Tacoma to visit Tacoma Plywood. They supply stores like Dunn
and beat their prices somewhat. They'll deliver too. Reguardless, I
want to stay with all doug fir which is how Tomboy was built in the
first place.
As to how Tomboy came to grief in the first place...in one
word, "Sweetwater". It looks like the mid-section bottom rotted from
the inside out. I've talked to Chuck, who is only a stones throw away
from Tomboy at South Park. Understandably, he doesn't want to talk
about her that much seeing the grief she's come to - I assume after
he sold her. I do believe that the original ingress of water came
from around the mast boot, because it looks like some repair work has
been done fwd to the floor area and topsides there. I found that
water was coming in from cracks in the drain channel surrounding the
hold area. Also where Chuck added battery cables for his outboard, it
looks like water seeped in through those openings at some point. I've
also got a mystery leak from somewhere up on deck that runs along the
portside of bulkhead #4. I've gotta check the seams up top before she
goes back out from under her tarp. I think poor topside seams were
what did in Oyster - the little 23' leeboard barge in Bothell.
The bottom was done with 3 layers of 1/2 inch ply originally and very
well it looks like. I didn't find any dings in the bottom epoxy after
removing the single layer of 10oz. cloth. The only gripe I'd have
with Chuck is his use of some ferrous nails. Wherever there've been
nails, even bronze ones to some degree, in conjunction with water
pooling on the inside, it looks like rot has had a quicker vector to
spread its vengeance. I may have to use bronze nails or screws to put
the bottom back on, but I'm inclined to just use drywall screws
temporarily and trust to the ferocity of the epoxy bond. I'm also of
the opinion that (re-)epoxy coating the bilges is the way to go.
Chuck had some bilge pumps in her, but it looks like they died
prematurely.
The masts, well, Chuck admits they were built of cheap stuff. I can
see that the grain interval on much of the masts approaches 1/4 inch.
Definitely not old growth. I think the yard and boom are a bit
better, at least the epoxy and varnish is still holding up. The sails
look to be pretty fresh, the mizzen sail is almost like new.
Well, scince it's pouring rain out, I'm off to Ohlsen Lumber to see
if I can drum up some 2" thick mast lumber.
Paul
Seattle, WA
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> > I wonder if you could share with us what happened that made have
lead
> > to the problems with the bottom?
>
> I am curious too. That boat has to be thirty years old, I am
> guessing. That is a pretty long life for a wooden boat.
>
> I wonder if you could share with us what happened that made have leadI am curious too. That boat has to be thirty years old, I am
> to the problems with the bottom?
guessing. That is a pretty long life for a wooden boat.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "paull01" <paull01@...> wrote:
I wonder if you could share with us what happened that made have lead
to the problems with the bottom? Was it because it was crossed planked
and began to leak after awhile? What measures are you taking to insure
it doesn't happen again? Was the bottom glassed when it was built
originally and was epoxy used?
Also it might be of interest as to what happened to the spars that
they require replacing.
Here's hoping the repairs go smoothly!
Nels
>Hi Paul,
> Chuck Merrell's Tomboy
> www.boatdesign.com/Tomboy
>
> is slowly coming back from death row. I purchased her at the
> beginning of the year after a heads up notice from someone on this
> group. I slacked off during the winter and a mostly wet spring, so
> I'm finally getting her done. I've torn off about 80% of the bottom
> and am currently replaceing the chines and some of the bottom
> timbers. I should be putting the bottom back on in a couple of weeks.
> I've got the fwd pard of the bottom rabbetted to recieve the new
> bottom plywood. It's going to take about 4 sheets of 1/2 inch (times
> 3 staggered layers) to patch her back up. Then I still have to make a
> new main mast. The mizzen might need redoing as well...sigh. A labour
> of love, for sure.
I wonder if you could share with us what happened that made have lead
to the problems with the bottom? Was it because it was crossed planked
and began to leak after awhile? What measures are you taking to insure
it doesn't happen again? Was the bottom glassed when it was built
originally and was epoxy used?
Also it might be of interest as to what happened to the spars that
they require replacing.
Here's hoping the repairs go smoothly!
Nels
> If that is cheap epoxy, I'm sure glad I don't use the expensive stuff.Delivered prices...
I recall I paid about $50/gallon for the Raka (buying six gallons at a time)
The MaxBond is about $34/gallon (buying 10 gallons at a time).
I have a high opinion of the quality of both of these epoxies. The
MaxBond is noticeably more 'amber' in color than the Raka, and also
has more susceptible to 'the cold weather stiff resin' problem (but if
you warm it up, no problem).
For what it's worth, I've used exclusively Raka medium speed epoxy for 4 mouseboats and a Cartopper, with excellent results. If that is cheap epoxy, I'm sure glad I don't use the expensive stuff. This hobby is getting pricey as it is!
Kathleen
---------------------------------
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles.
Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Kathleen
---------------------------------
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles.
Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I swoon when I think of the Tomboy Jessie Cooper.
pin? Is 2 inches thick of the fir Home Depot plywood, costing about
$70 "better" than 1/2" of marine grade costing $70? Personally, I see
that Home Depot normal 5-ply fir plywood to be pretty good stuff,
reasonably rot resistant and priced right.
cheaper, and is my present favorite. The big reason is that I now
prefer the 1:1 mix ratio, versus Raka's 2:1 ratio. I found that one
time in a hundred I would screw up the 2:1 to be 1:2, and then have a
gooey mess to clean up. I cannot make that same mistake with 1:1 mix
ratio.
.
> Question is, what materials and methods to use for the repair. I'veInteresting question, akin to how many angels can dance on a head of a
> used some AB marine fir ply to repair the topsides. I got that 1/2
> inch stuff from Dunn Lumber here in Seattle. It seems to be pretty
> bulletproof, but at about $70 a sheet, I'm wondering if anyone knows
> of a cheaper supply.
pin? Is 2 inches thick of the fir Home Depot plywood, costing about
$70 "better" than 1/2" of marine grade costing $70? Personally, I see
that Home Depot normal 5-ply fir plywood to be pretty good stuff,
reasonably rot resistant and priced right.
> Next question is epoxy. Does anyone have anyI have used them both and like them both. The MaxBond is a bit
> experience with the budget stuff, like Raka or the MaxBond stuff
> found on ebay?
cheaper, and is my present favorite. The big reason is that I now
prefer the 1:1 mix ratio, versus Raka's 2:1 ratio. I found that one
time in a hundred I would screw up the 2:1 to be 1:2, and then have a
gooey mess to clean up. I cannot make that same mistake with 1:1 mix
ratio.
.
Chuck Merrell's Tomboy
www.boatdesign.com/Tomboy
is slowly coming back from death row. I purchased her at the
beginning of the year after a heads up notice from someone on this
group. I slacked off during the winter and a mostly wet spring, so
I'm finally getting her done. I've torn off about 80% of the bottom
and am currently replaceing the chines and some of the bottom
timbers. I should be putting the bottom back on in a couple of weeks.
I've got the fwd pard of the bottom rabbetted to recieve the new
bottom plywood. It's going to take about 4 sheets of 1/2 inch (times
3 staggered layers) to patch her back up. Then I still have to make a
new main mast. The mizzen might need redoing as well...sigh. A labour
of love, for sure.
Question is, what materials and methods to use for the repair. I've
used some AB marine fir ply to repair the topsides. I got that 1/2
inch stuff from Dunn Lumber here in Seattle. It seems to be pretty
bulletproof, but at about $70 a sheet, I'm wondering if anyone knows
of a cheaper supply. Next question is epoxy. Does anyone have any
experience with the budget stuff, like Raka or the MaxBond stuff
found on ebay?
Paul
Seattle, WA
www.boatdesign.com/Tomboy
is slowly coming back from death row. I purchased her at the
beginning of the year after a heads up notice from someone on this
group. I slacked off during the winter and a mostly wet spring, so
I'm finally getting her done. I've torn off about 80% of the bottom
and am currently replaceing the chines and some of the bottom
timbers. I should be putting the bottom back on in a couple of weeks.
I've got the fwd pard of the bottom rabbetted to recieve the new
bottom plywood. It's going to take about 4 sheets of 1/2 inch (times
3 staggered layers) to patch her back up. Then I still have to make a
new main mast. The mizzen might need redoing as well...sigh. A labour
of love, for sure.
Question is, what materials and methods to use for the repair. I've
used some AB marine fir ply to repair the topsides. I got that 1/2
inch stuff from Dunn Lumber here in Seattle. It seems to be pretty
bulletproof, but at about $70 a sheet, I'm wondering if anyone knows
of a cheaper supply. Next question is epoxy. Does anyone have any
experience with the budget stuff, like Raka or the MaxBond stuff
found on ebay?
Paul
Seattle, WA