Re: Eeek!amaran (and Camper Trimaran #554) (was Flotation in an open boat [etc])

Here's a neat link to a blog on beachcrusing in a Wharram Tiki 21
catamaran--not Bolger, but a great amateur-built design and a fun,
excentric designer with a worldwide foloowing.

http://tiki21element.blogspot.com/

280 lbs displacement for each hull. Most of that aft in level trim.
Where it's wanted to lighten the bows in an EeeK!amaran . That will
support a motor aft on a bracket too. A 6/1 L/B ratio is pretty good
for a sharpie shape, might just do for a tri-EeeK!amaran though too
small for even getting over an S/L of somewhere under 2 in a cat-
EeeK!amaran, I guess, let alone upwards of 3, and higher, but who
cares as for such an elegant small boat that's still a great ride
and stable platform for fun - ....and it might just plane faster
with those flat pointy aft bottoms. 560 lbs displacement all up,
less 175 - 200lbs if built as is without strengthened lightening,
plus rig and gear would allow an adult and couple of kids to daysail
more with some further immersion. Two might be able to camp
overnight, and one could go a long way.

I was once camped up north along Etty Bay, fishing at night on a
secluded jungle backed beach in the wet tropics just north of Flying
Fish point when out of the dark moonless fairy lit Coral Sea a small
chubby, boxy, cat pulled up on the beach. Her wild looking skipper
was encrusted with salt but was fit and happy. We fed and watered
him, and had a few drinks around the fire then went to look at the
boat by dim torch light. This was 1980, April it was, and I could
hardly believe my eyes. I thought small cats were Hobies! The boat,
about 12ft, was diposable - mostly nailed together from dump
scrounged ply, unpainted, save for some peeling remains from its
previous life - bits of wire and manilla string - a thredbare
standing lug (kinda) bedsheet and poly tarp sail. He'd launched from
Brisbane 1600kms down south, and was beachcruising twice that
distance further to the north, to Darwin, up and around the Top End.
I was beachcamping, but this was worth exploring.

He'd done it often he said. During the wet he'd drive down to the
big smoke, party hard on his dry season savings, parley the car,
then, broke, coastal cruise this way back to NT, for the next
shooting/fishing/mustering season. He said he'd tried the
conventional, and then broken free. No bus for him! He was a quietly
spoken bloke, big smile, and after I'd nodded off I found him gone
before first light. I had to check for marks on the beach where the
cat had been hauled up just to be sure this hadn't been a dream.
There was no sign left by the receding tide, then we found an
unopened bottle of scotch and a fresh Mangrove Jack, up against a
tree near the fire, and knew we'd hosted this traveller. I wish I
had seen the boat by daylight, it was sort of shocking; an EeeK!
amaran would be far superior. As far as I'm concerned he proved it
could work, easily.

I don't mean to distract your attention, I know well how that goes,
and FWIW I think you should build Nutmeg, that's a great design
(dinghies are great intros for kids - rowing - sailing - reactions
etc), but this may interest you for later on, and would work for you
for sure: PCB gave me some very brief details about Camping Trimaran
#554. He wrote "...the Camping Trimaran is #554, and not #544, and
is a design for a hull using Hobie 16 floats, rig, and hardware,
US$100...". I have absolutely no idea of the vaka size, shape or
construction. I mean it may be cold molded (out for me!) it may be a
stepped sheet material, instant, flat slamming rocket. Knowing
PCB's "camper" I think it would have great accomodations, a motor
etc. Old Hobie bits are readily available and can be purchased quite
cheaply, so it should give quick value for time and money. My guess
is it's similar to rendering Sparkler a simplified Lightning. I'd
venture it a simplified Newick Tremolino that also IIRC uses Hobie
bits. I must write and ask him to elaborate, unless someone here has
seen more details...




--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "The Peillet-Long Family"
<owlnmole@...> wrote:

>
> Ah, a kindred spirit...
>
> I am on the road and don't have access to my Bolger collection,

but

> as I remember, Bolger prescribed something like 75 lbs ballast to

get

> stability when sailing. So presumably an Eeek!amaran with stock
> Eeek! hulls would be good for three adults, or two adults and a
> couple of kids. Hmmm, I bet I could work out a simple bridge deck
> from a 4' 8' sheet of plywood and Wharram-style lashed

connections

> to the hulls. In fact, the Sunfish sail I was getting for
> Featherwind should be about right for an Eeek!maran.
>
> Oh no, now look what you've done, here I go in another direction
> again!
>

Is this the same thing as pool noodles? I have a dense polyethylene
foam seat cushion which I think is what you're talking about and I'd
have to say I've been struck with it's durability. I also use pool
noodles for foam padding when cartopping. Seem very similar except the
pool noodles seem less dense - better flotation per lb but not as
tough. What's inside PDFs?

Bryant - also pondering flotation

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...> wrote:
>
> I don't know how well polyethylene foam holds up, but I've received
> samples fro a local plastic supplier and to me it seems like a better
> foam than most of the others people are familiar with.
>
> The specs and descriptions I've seen suggest that it is not degraded by
> UV or water or most chemicals. In other words, I think it will hold up
> fine if you don't put it on walk areas or other high wear areas.
>
> It is slippery like polyethylene plastic so paint won't stick to it.
> Most adhesives won't stick to it very well either. Contact cement may
> work, or maybe a special 3M adhesive -- 3M makes lots of special
> adhesives, some specifically for plastics.
>
> This plastic is used for packing expensive electronic equipment
> sometimes. It costs more than the common EPS (expanded polystyrene)
> packing foam but it is flexible and won't break like styrofoam.
> Instead it will bend and flex enough to absorb the shock that breaks
> other more rigid types of foams.
>
> I've never tried it on a boat myself but I wouldn't hesitate for a
> minute if I were in your shoes. Just make sure you use the right glue
> so it doesn't peel off when you need it most. A bit of online research
> should help you to identify the proper adhesives.
>
> Sincerely,
> Ken Grome
> Bagacay Boatworks
> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > That's a very interesting suggestion, Ken. Do you or anyone else
> > have any experience with polyethylene foam in this kind of
> > application? Should it be painted or otherwise protected? How does
> > it hold up to sun, water, abrasion over time?
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@>
> >
> > wrote:
> > > You could also just glue a thick layer of flexible closed cell
> > > polyethylene foam to the inside of your hull. Then your boat will
> >
> > be
> >
> > > quieter and softer inside, and you won't have the added weight,
> >
> > cost or
> >
> > > hassle of installing another layer of plywood that serves no real
> > > purpose other than to prevent hard foam from getting dented and
> >
> > dinged
> >
> > > up.
> > >
> > >http://www.polyethylenefoam.net
> > >
> > > Sincerely,
> > > Ken Grome
> > > Bagacay Boatworks
> > > www.bagacayboatworks.com
> > >
> > > > Hi, Ken, and thanks for your comments.
> > > >
> > > > Your ideas are very interesting, but unfortunately, there is very
> > > > little I despise more than working with fiberglass and resin, so
> > > > I try to keep it to a bare minimum. Something I might try,
> > > > which I have seen sketched out, but not in practice, is to add
> > > > foam and second layer of thin plywood, say to each side of the
> > > > bow and the transom, to make that a ply-foam-ply sandwich. This
> > > > would add floation without altering the center of buoancy too
> > > > much or
> >
> > taking up
> >
> > > > all the space.
> > > >
> > > > Cheers,
> > > >
> > > > Matthew
>

I don't know how well polyethylene foam holds up, but I've received
samples fro a local plastic supplier and to me it seems like a better
foam than most of the others people are familiar with.

The specs and descriptions I've seen suggest that it is not degraded by
UV or water or most chemicals. In other words, I think it will hold up
fine if you don't put it on walk areas or other high wear areas.

It is slippery like polyethylene plastic so paint won't stick to it.
Most adhesives won't stick to it very well either. Contact cement may
work, or maybe a special 3M adhesive -- 3M makes lots of special
adhesives, some specifically for plastics.

This plastic is used for packing expensive electronic equipment
sometimes. It costs more than the common EPS (expanded polystyrene)
packing foam but it is flexible and won't break like styrofoam.
Instead it will bend and flex enough to absorb the shock that breaks
other more rigid types of foams.

I've never tried it on a boat myself but I wouldn't hesitate for a
minute if I were in your shoes. Just make sure you use the right glue
so it doesn't peel off when you need it most. A bit of online research
should help you to identify the proper adhesives.

Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com

> That's a very interesting suggestion, Ken. Do you or anyone else
> have any experience with polyethylene foam in this kind of
> application? Should it be painted or otherwise protected? How does
> it hold up to sun, water, abrasion over time?
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...>
>
> wrote:
> > You could also just glue a thick layer of flexible closed cell
> > polyethylene foam to the inside of your hull. Then your boat will
>
> be
>
> > quieter and softer inside, and you won't have the added weight,
>
> cost or
>
> > hassle of installing another layer of plywood that serves no real
> > purpose other than to prevent hard foam from getting dented and
>
> dinged
>
> > up.
> >
> >http://www.polyethylenefoam.net
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Ken Grome
> > Bagacay Boatworks
> > www.bagacayboatworks.com
> >
> > > Hi, Ken, and thanks for your comments.
> > >
> > > Your ideas are very interesting, but unfortunately, there is very
> > > little I despise more than working with fiberglass and resin, so
> > > I try to keep it to a bare minimum. Something I might try,
> > > which I have seen sketched out, but not in practice, is to add
> > > foam and second layer of thin plywood, say to each side of the
> > > bow and the transom, to make that a ply-foam-ply sandwich. This
> > > would add floation without altering the center of buoancy too
> > > much or
>
> taking up
>
> > > all the space.
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > > Matthew

That's a very interesting suggestion, Ken. Do you or anyone else
have any experience with polyethylene foam in this kind of
application? Should it be painted or otherwise protected? How does
it hold up to sun, water, abrasion over time?

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...>
wrote:

>
> You could also just glue a thick layer of flexible closed cell
> polyethylene foam to the inside of your hull. Then your boat will

be

> quieter and softer inside, and you won't have the added weight,

cost or

> hassle of installing another layer of plywood that serves no real
> purpose other than to prevent hard foam from getting dented and

dinged

> up.
>
>http://www.polyethylenefoam.net
>
> Sincerely,
> Ken Grome
> Bagacay Boatworks
> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
>
>
>
> > Hi, Ken, and thanks for your comments.
> >
> > Your ideas are very interesting, but unfortunately, there is very
> > little I despise more than working with fiberglass and resin, so I
> > try to keep it to a bare minimum. Something I might try, which I
> > have seen sketched out, but not in practice, is to add foam and
> > second layer of thin plywood, say to each side of the bow and the
> > transom, to make that a ply-foam-ply sandwich. This would add
> > floation without altering the center of buoancy too much or

taking up

> > all the space.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Matthew
>

You could also just glue a thick layer of flexible closed cell
polyethylene foam to the inside of your hull. Then your boat will be
quieter and softer inside, and you won't have the added weight, cost or
hassle of installing another layer of plywood that serves no real
purpose other than to prevent hard foam from getting dented and dinged
up.

http://www.polyethylenefoam.net

Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com

> Hi, Ken, and thanks for your comments.
>
> Your ideas are very interesting, but unfortunately, there is very
> little I despise more than working with fiberglass and resin, so I
> try to keep it to a bare minimum. Something I might try, which I
> have seen sketched out, but not in practice, is to add foam and
> second layer of thin plywood, say to each side of the bow and the
> transom, to make that a ply-foam-ply sandwich. This would add
> floation without altering the center of buoancy too much or taking up
> all the space.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Matthew

Hi, Ken, and thanks for your comments.

Your ideas are very interesting, but unfortunately, there is very
little I despise more than working with fiberglass and resin, so I
try to keep it to a bare minimum. Something I might try, which I
have seen sketched out, but not in practice, is to add foam and
second layer of thin plywood, say to each side of the bow and the
transom, to make that a ply-foam-ply sandwich. This would add
floation without altering the center of buoancy too much or taking up
all the space.

Cheers,

Matthew

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...>
wrote:

>
> Hi Matthew,
>
> The reason I asked is because I have had good luck building foam

core

> hulls on small boats. This only makes sense before you start

building

> of course ... :)
>
> When the foam is encapsulated in epoxy and glass fabric it doesn't

take

> up any extra space inside the hull, yet it provides more flotation

than

> if you had built air tight flotation boxes or foam filled flotation
> chambers.
>
> It is cheaper to "just use plywood" of course, because then you

don't

> need to make it into a composite sandwich like you do with the foam

as

> core material. Nevertheless it is an option that most people who

build

> small boats do not consider, and for some of these small boats I

have

> found it to be a very good option.
>
> I am using cheap styrofoam on a small (8 foot long) paddle powered
> trimaran I am building right now, and I have a customer who wants

one

> just like it only bigger so he can take a couple of friends

paddling

> with him. Eventually I may post some pictures online when I get

these

> boats finished.
>
> Even the little 8 footer should be a very seaworthy boat regardless

of

> how small it is, not only because it is unsinkable but also because

its

> design is a modern version of the traditional Philippine 'banca'

boats

> that have been used in this country for open ocean fishing for

perhaps

> thousands of years.
>
> If you were to use foam core in your sailboat hull, you would have

to

> reinforce the stress points with extra fiberglass layers. But when
> you're done you would have an unsinkable high-tech composite hull

with

> no wood in it, so it would never rot!
>
> Sincerely,
> Ken Grome
> Bagacay Boatworks
> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Ken,
> >
> > As you can see from the Featherwind page at
> > <http://molepages.googlepages.com> I am gathering materials but

have

> > not yet started to build. I have previous build Brick, Yellow

Leaf,

> > June Bug and Tortoise.
> >
> > So it would not be a big deal to integrate small changes now. One
> > thing I am considering, because I do have epoxy, wood flour and
> > fiberglass tape, is adding very small flotation chambers at the

bow

> > and transom corners, whether by using foam blocks or light plywood
> > bulkheads, to add some flotation without loosing the open boat

feel.

> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Matthew
>

> > I have had good luck building foam core hulls on small boats.
> > This only makes sense before you start building of course ... :)
>
> I was just wondering, do you have to make any special considerations
> when choosing foam for the core/epoxy for the coating from the
> standpoint of chemical reactivity?

Epoxy is compatible with all types of foam. Polyester resin will
dissolve polystyrene foam (styrofoam) and maybe other types of foam as
well.

Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com

>
>
> The reason I asked is because I have had good luck building foam core
> hulls on small boats. This only makes sense before you start building
> of course ... :)
>

I was just wondering, do you have to make any special considerations when
choosing foam for the core/epoxy for the coating from the standpoint of
chemical reactivity? I could think of nothing worse than meticulously
building your foam core, only to have it start to disintegrate in the
moments following the start of encapsulation.

Bret

--
"Govern a great nation as you would cook a small fish. Do not overdo it."

-- Lao Tzu


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Matthew,

The reason I asked is because I have had good luck building foam core
hulls on small boats. This only makes sense before you start building
of course ... :)

When the foam is encapsulated in epoxy and glass fabric it doesn't take
up any extra space inside the hull, yet it provides more flotation than
if you had built air tight flotation boxes or foam filled flotation
chambers.

It is cheaper to "just use plywood" of course, because then you don't
need to make it into a composite sandwich like you do with the foam as
core material. Nevertheless it is an option that most people who build
small boats do not consider, and for some of these small boats I have
found it to be a very good option.

I am using cheap styrofoam on a small (8 foot long) paddle powered
trimaran I am building right now, and I have a customer who wants one
just like it only bigger so he can take a couple of friends paddling
with him. Eventually I may post some pictures online when I get these
boats finished.

Even the little 8 footer should be a very seaworthy boat regardless of
how small it is, not only because it is unsinkable but also because its
design is a modern version of the traditional Philippine 'banca' boats
that have been used in this country for open ocean fishing for perhaps
thousands of years.

If you were to use foam core in your sailboat hull, you would have to
reinforce the stress points with extra fiberglass layers. But when
you're done you would have an unsinkable high-tech composite hull with
no wood in it, so it would never rot!

Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com

> Ken,
>
> As you can see from the Featherwind page at
> <http://molepages.googlepages.com> I am gathering materials but have
> not yet started to build. I have previous build Brick, Yellow Leaf,
> June Bug and Tortoise.
>
> So it would not be a big deal to integrate small changes now. One
> thing I am considering, because I do have epoxy, wood flour and
> fiberglass tape, is adding very small flotation chambers at the bow
> and transom corners, whether by using foam blocks or light plywood
> bulkheads, to add some flotation without loosing the open boat feel.
>
> Regards,
>
> Matthew

Ah, a kindred spirit...

I am on the road and don't have access to my Bolger collection, but
as I remember, Bolger prescribed something like 75 lbs ballast to get
stability when sailing. So presumably an Eeek!amaran with stock
Eeek! hulls would be good for three adults, or two adults and a
couple of kids. Hmmm, I bet I could work out a simple bridge deck
from a 4' 8' sheet of plywood and Wharram-style lashed connections
to the hulls. In fact, the Sunfish sail I was getting for
Featherwind should be about right for an Eeek!maran.

Oh no, now look what you've done, here I go in another direction
again!

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...>
wrote:

>
> Oh, boy. How I've been scheeming up a long slim hulled EeeK!amaran.
> Yes! Why wouldn't that work. Not as good a hull shape as some more
> modern sophisticated multhulls. Not as expensive either! The fore
> bottom and sides in accord with Bolger sharpie water flow theory,

and

> the aft bottom a power economising "rule cheating" transition zone
> speedster as on the Topaz-Sitka powerboat type. The EeeK!amaran

would

> carry enough sail to hit that transition zone, surely - maybe go

right

> through it! Not a racing multi, a cruiser and a good one at that! I
> think some modern multi racers may sneer at rooster tails, but,

boy, I

> would cheer them. Might as well too as I think you're gunna

get 'em.

> Beauties!
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "The Peillet-Long Family"

<owlnmole@>

> wrote:
> > reminds me that the Eeek!/Anhinga-style double-ended sharpie

hull,

> > with rocker forward but not aft, seems perfect for a little
> > catamaran. Any thoughts on this from the assembled multitudes?
>

Ken,

As you can see from the Featherwind page at
<http://molepages.googlepages.com> I am gathering materials but have
not yet started to build. I have previous build Brick, Yellow Leaf,
June Bug and Tortoise.

So it would not be a big deal to integrate small changes now. One
thing I am considering, because I do have epoxy, wood flour and
fiberglass tape, is adding very small flotation chambers at the bow
and transom corners, whether by using foam blocks or light plywood
bulkheads, to add some flotation without loosing the open boat feel.

Regards,

Matthew

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...>
wrote:

>
> In what stage of construction is the boat ... and which boat are

you

> building?
>
> Sincerely,
> Ken Grome
> Bagacay Boatworks
> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
>
>
> > Thanks, Graeme for the compliments.
> >
> > I actually contacted Dave Carnell on the flotation question, but

he

> > didn't have any specific advice to offer. I'd rather not clutter

up

> > the simple, open boat with bulkheads and decks, so I'd appreciate

any

> > suggestions folks might have on simple flotation options.
> >
> > I am considering something like kayak float bags at the bow and
> > transom corners, just to make the boat easier to recover after a
> > capsize. The people will all have life vests. Foam under the
> > partner thwart might help, too.
> >
> > Again, I am trying not to turn the boat into a decked skiff, or

else

> > I should be building something else like Storm Petrel, June Bug or
> > one of Jim Michalak's designs. What really appeals to me about
> > Featherwind is all that space and I don't want to give that up.
> >
> > Please, if anyone has any suggestions or experience to share,

weigh

> > in.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Matthew
>

In what stage of construction is the boat ... and which boat are you
building?

Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com

> Thanks, Graeme for the compliments.
>
> I actually contacted Dave Carnell on the flotation question, but he
> didn't have any specific advice to offer. I'd rather not clutter up
> the simple, open boat with bulkheads and decks, so I'd appreciate any
> suggestions folks might have on simple flotation options.
>
> I am considering something like kayak float bags at the bow and
> transom corners, just to make the boat easier to recover after a
> capsize. The people will all have life vests. Foam under the
> partner thwart might help, too.
>
> Again, I am trying not to turn the boat into a decked skiff, or else
> I should be building something else like Storm Petrel, June Bug or
> one of Jim Michalak's designs. What really appeals to me about
> Featherwind is all that space and I don't want to give that up.
>
> Please, if anyone has any suggestions or experience to share, weigh
> in.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Matthew

Oh, boy. How I've been scheeming up a long slim hulled EeeK!amaran.
Yes! Why wouldn't that work. Not as good a hull shape as some more
modern sophisticated multhulls. Not as expensive either! The fore
bottom and sides in accord with Bolger sharpie water flow theory, and
the aft bottom a power economising "rule cheating" transition zone
speedster as on the Topaz-Sitka powerboat type. The EeeK!amaran would
carry enough sail to hit that transition zone, surely - maybe go right
through it! Not a racing multi, a cruiser and a good one at that! I
think some modern multi racers may sneer at rooster tails, but, boy, I
would cheer them. Might as well too as I think you're gunna get 'em.
Beauties!


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "The Peillet-Long Family" <owlnmole@...>
wrote:

> reminds me that the Eeek!/Anhinga-style double-ended sharpie hull,
> with rocker forward but not aft, seems perfect for a little
> catamaran. Any thoughts on this from the assembled multitudes?

A propos of nothing, looking at these pics (took me a while, had to
join the group first and be approved) reminds me that the Eeek!/Anhinga-
style double-ended sharpie hull, with rocker forward but not aft, seems
perfect for a little catamaran. Any thoughts on this from the
assembled multitudes?

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...>
wrote:

>
> Have you seen what Gary Lepak developed on his 12ft, cool, creative,
> newest, BOXY LADY design?
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/microcruising/message/13428Take a
> look at the linked file of photos.
>

Hello
Could you elaberate?(spelling) Explain more?
Dave

Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote: I'm not really sure how the layout of the hull is but
you can glue foam to the hull sides and then glue a
light ply ofer the top of it and then glass the whole
thing. This idea works the best with you have a boat
that you want to keep the center open.

Blessings
Krissie
--- The Peillet-Long Family <owlnmole@...>
wrote:

> Thanks, Graeme for the compliments.
>
> I actually contacted Dave Carnell on the flotation
> question, but he
> didn't have any specific advice to offer. I'd
> rather not clutter up
> the simple, open boat with bulkheads and decks, so
> I'd appreciate any
> suggestions folks might have on simple flotation
> options.
>

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I'm not really sure how the layout of the hull is but
you can glue foam to the hull sides and then glue a
light ply ofer the top of it and then glass the whole
thing. This idea works the best with you have a boat
that you want to keep the center open.

Blessings
Krissie
--- The Peillet-Long Family <owlnmole@...>
wrote:

> Thanks, Graeme for the compliments.
>
> I actually contacted Dave Carnell on the flotation
> question, but he
> didn't have any specific advice to offer. I'd
> rather not clutter up
> the simple, open boat with bulkheads and decks, so
> I'd appreciate any
> suggestions folks might have on simple flotation
> options.
>

____________________________________________________________________________________
Got a little couch potato?
Check out fun summer activities for kids.
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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...>
wrote:

> but will first see if it will load up to a file folder as the details
> may become unclear if resized...

Done and done. Marvellous how designating the photo with a popular
number got it through the SP servers without problem
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger4photos/photos/browse/414b

ALL: Don't forget the *-Mahone Bay-*****-WINDSPRINT RACES-* beginning
this coming weekend, I believe... Bets anyone?

Graeme

> -> > >... nah, Yahoo server
> is acting up, so I can't post those pics just now. I'll try again
> later.

Done.

http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger4photos/photos/browse/414b?c=

Well I got a few up! Reversed the sequence and all went well down to
the first pic of the bunch I wanted to show: number 4 jpg. Ah well
that's it - the server's in Singapore! ;-) just joking. I might have
to resize it tomorrow, but will first see if it will load up to a
file folder as the details may become unclear if resized. Anyway you
probably get the lashing idea from the above pics. For those glass
strengthened foam outriggers like BOXY LADY has the beam wouldn't
need to be so heavy, or use light pipe like Gary has.

Graeme

Have you seen what Gary Lepak developed on his 12ft, cool, creative,
newest, BOXY LADY design?

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/microcruising/message/13428Take a
look at the linked file of photos.

Elegantly, a few strips or planks of foam glassed over and turned
into sliding-out-riggers. In the Featherwind type you won't want the
rollicks on the outriggers, so perhaps if they were fixed at "out",
or alternatively if they were raised a little perhaps wing-like at a
slight angle, then your oars could work underneath them without
interference. Purely for reserve and emergency flotation, I would
think, not for live ballast hiking out. Fasten the beams to the boat
by simple lashings through small holes made below the wales through
small doublers to the sides plank: like this Windsprint Tri of
Ryerson's only more lightly constructed -> > >... nah, Yahoo server
is acting up, so I can't post those pics just now. I'll try again
later. Yeah, the beams will cross the open hull and divide and
intrude on the space somewhat, but they will also maybe delineate
areas for the little crew. It should remain quite light in weight.

Graeme

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "The Peillet-Long Family"
<owlnmole@...> wrote:

>
> Thanks, Graeme for the compliments.
>
> I actually contacted Dave Carnell on the flotation question, but

he

> didn't have any specific advice to offer. I'd rather not clutter

up

> the simple, open boat with bulkheads and decks, so I'd appreciate

any

> suggestions folks might have on simple flotation options.
>
> I am considering something like kayak float bags at the bow and
> transom corners, just to make the boat easier to recover after a
> capsize. The people will all have life vests. Foam under the
> partner thwart might help, too.
>
> Again, I am trying not to turn the boat into a decked skiff, or

else

> I should be building something else like Storm Petrel, June Bug or
> one of Jim Michalak's designs. What really appeals to me about
> Featherwind is all that space and I don't want to give that up.
>
> Please, if anyone has any suggestions or experience to share,

weigh

> in.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Matthew
>

Thanks, Graeme for the compliments.

I actually contacted Dave Carnell on the flotation question, but he
didn't have any specific advice to offer. I'd rather not clutter up
the simple, open boat with bulkheads and decks, so I'd appreciate any
suggestions folks might have on simple flotation options.

I am considering something like kayak float bags at the bow and
transom corners, just to make the boat easier to recover after a
capsize. The people will all have life vests. Foam under the
partner thwart might help, too.

Again, I am trying not to turn the boat into a decked skiff, or else
I should be building something else like Storm Petrel, June Bug or
one of Jim Michalak's designs. What really appeals to me about
Featherwind is all that space and I don't want to give that up.

Please, if anyone has any suggestions or experience to share, weigh
in.

Cheers,

Matthew

I think it's great! Can't wait to see what else you put up. Great piece
on Featherwind, plus links. Just for fun - yes, that's it all right.

Happy building - it's a great boat - and the page is too! (With your
young'uns, are you building in flotation? - in the boat I mean ;-)

Graeme

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "The Peillet-Long Family" <owlnmole@...>
wrote:

> I have revamped my old web site and put it up at at new address:
>http://molepages.googlepages.com
> Just for fun, let me know what you think.
> Matthew

I have revamped my old web site and put it up at at new address:
http://molepages.googlepages.com

There are updated versions of my articles on building Brick and Yellow Leaf, some articles on
building June Bug and Tortoise coming soon, and a page on my current project, Dave
Carnell's modified Featherwind, AKA the $200 sailboat.

Just for fun, let me know what you think.

Matthew