Re: [bolger] Re: A or C side out

Thanks for the info!

Hard to find boatbuilding type wood around here. I'll check some of
these places out.

Thanks
Chris Kottaridis (Chriskot@...)

On Wed, 2007-09-05 at 13:22 +0000, adventures_in_astrophotography wrote:
> Hi John, Chris,
>
> > For the amount of work it takes to clean up and seal inside or out
> the
> > C side of most ACX I have seen I would pay the extra for ABX or
> less
> > for MDO.
>
> As I recall, Chris is in my neck of the woods in CO. The only MDO I
> have found was up in Denver and was 3/8", although there must surely
> be other suppliers up there. The sign companies I called down here in
> Colorado Springs all said there was no local source for MDO and that
> they got theirs from Denver. In any case, I doubt MDO can be found in
> 1/4" thickness.
>
> I also cannot say that I have ever seen ABX in this area or in
> Denver,
> except in interior grade hardwood veneer plywood. Marine fir is
> sometimes available from CO Lumber on Stone St. near the old dog
> track, but its quality is not up to its price in my view - lots of
> edge voids.
>
> The best material I've found so far at a reasonable price is
> something
> called AC Superply by Roseburg. This plywood has what appears to be
> a Luan A face that's very smooth and clear. The C face appears to be
> a rougher grade Luan on the 1/4" material and fir on the 1/2"
> material. They don't carry 3/8". The 1/4" is something like
> $20/sheet if I recall. I've built four or five boats with this stuff
> now, and it seems to work quite well, although none of the boats are
> more than a few years old. It's available at Front Range Lumber on
> Wadsworth just north of Jewell in Denver. They also carry marine fir,
> but I haven't looked at it. This is also the place I found the 3/8"
> MDO, which is only single-sided while the other face has plenty of
> small checks to fill.
>
> For solid lumber, you can get CVG fir in 4/4 and 5/4 from Austin
> Hardwoods on Mississippi west of Sante Fe in Denver. Call first so
> they can have a bundle out for you to pick through. They will also
> surface the wood with their big planer for a nominal charge. You can
> order CVG S1S2E western red cedar from Rocky Mountain Forest Products
> right off I-25 at the Fountain exit. The rough face is not very rough
> at all, and if you make it the gluing face, you won't need to surface
> it. Both of these softwoods are top shelf materials, but obviously a
> bit pricey - still, it's much less expensive than having anything
> shipped and is soooooo much nicer to work with than anything from the
> big box stores. Ash, mahogany, white oak, and other hardwoods can be
> had locally from CO Lumber if needed.
>
> If you want anything much better, I think you'll have to get it
> shipped in it will cost a bundle. If you do find better plywood
> locally, please let me know. FWIW, I put the C side out and glass it.
>
> Jon Kolb
> www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
>
>
>
>
>
Hi John, Chris,

> For the amount of work it takes to clean up and seal inside or out
the
> C side of most ACX I have seen I would pay the extra for ABX or less
> for MDO.

As I recall, Chris is in my neck of the woods in CO. The only MDO I
have found was up in Denver and was 3/8", although there must surely
be other suppliers up there. The sign companies I called down here in
Colorado Springs all said there was no local source for MDO and that
they got theirs from Denver. In any case, I doubt MDO can be found in
1/4" thickness.

I also cannot say that I have ever seen ABX in this area or in Denver,
except in interior grade hardwood veneer plywood. Marine fir is
sometimes available from CO Lumber on Stone St. near the old dog
track, but its quality is not up to its price in my view - lots of
edge voids.

The best material I've found so far at a reasonable price is something
called AC Superply by Roseburg. This plywood has what appears to be
a Luan A face that's very smooth and clear. The C face appears to be
a rougher grade Luan on the 1/4" material and fir on the 1/2"
material. They don't carry 3/8". The 1/4" is something like
$20/sheet if I recall. I've built four or five boats with this stuff
now, and it seems to work quite well, although none of the boats are
more than a few years old. It's available at Front Range Lumber on
Wadsworth just north of Jewell in Denver. They also carry marine fir,
but I haven't looked at it. This is also the place I found the 3/8"
MDO, which is only single-sided while the other face has plenty of
small checks to fill.

For solid lumber, you can get CVG fir in 4/4 and 5/4 from Austin
Hardwoods on Mississippi west of Sante Fe in Denver. Call first so
they can have a bundle out for you to pick through. They will also
surface the wood with their big planer for a nominal charge. You can
order CVG S1S2E western red cedar from Rocky Mountain Forest Products
right off I-25 at the Fountain exit. The rough face is not very rough
at all, and if you make it the gluing face, you won't need to surface
it. Both of these softwoods are top shelf materials, but obviously a
bit pricey - still, it's much less expensive than having anything
shipped and is soooooo much nicer to work with than anything from the
big box stores. Ash, mahogany, white oak, and other hardwoods can be
had locally from CO Lumber if needed.

If you want anything much better, I think you'll have to get it
shipped in it will cost a bundle. If you do find better plywood
locally, please let me know. FWIW, I put the C side out and glass it.

Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Chris Kottaridis <chriskot@...> wrote:
>
> When building an instant boat, specifically Bolger's single handed
> schooner, with exterior AC plywood side panels, should the A side be on
> the outside or the inside ?
>
> By the way I do plan to put cloth on the outside if that makes a
> difference.

I built my single handed schooner with the A side out. I could have
done C side out. Don't think it much matters. It was easy to fill the
knots on the C side. I glassed the outside (Xynole on the bottom like
Sue's; regular glass above the waterline), inside will be painted. If
you are planning to finish the inside bright, then put A side in,
otherwise, toss a coin.

Mike
http://chopandquench.typepad.com/photos/schoonerpix/index.html
For the amount of work it takes to clean up and seal inside or out the
C side of most ACX I have seen I would pay the extra for ABX or less
for MDO.

Jon

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> On 9/1/07, Chris Kottaridis <chriskot@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > When building an instant boat, specifically Bolger's single handed
> > schooner, with exterior AC plywood side panels, should the A side
be on
> > the outside or the inside ?
> >
> > By the way I do plan to put cloth on the outside if that makes a
> > difference.
>
> To each his own. I were you, glassing only one side, I would have the
> "C" side be the glassed outside.
>
On 9/1/07, Chris Kottaridis <chriskot@...> wrote:
>
>
> When building an instant boat, specifically Bolger's single handed
> schooner, with exterior AC plywood side panels, should the A side be on
> the outside or the inside ?
>
> By the way I do plan to put cloth on the outside if that makes a
> difference.

To each his own. I were you, glassing only one side, I would have the
"C" side be the glassed outside.
When building an instant boat, specifically Bolger's single handed
schooner, with exterior AC plywood side panels, should the A side be on
the outside or the inside ?

By the way I do plan to put cloth on the outside if that makes a
difference.

Thanks
Chris Kottaridis (chriskot@...)