Re: Gypsy glass schedule
I built a Gypsy some years ago and covered the outside with 6 oz.
glass set in epoxy. Epoxy and paint on the inside. Seemed like more
than adequate.
I added a deck and large water-tight compartments to make for easy
self-rescue for after the aforementioned inevitable death roll swim.
Enjoy your Gypsy - it is a fine design.
Romayne
glass set in epoxy. Epoxy and paint on the inside. Seemed like more
than adequate.
I added a deck and large water-tight compartments to make for easy
self-rescue for after the aforementioned inevitable death roll swim.
Enjoy your Gypsy - it is a fine design.
Romayne
Kirill,
I never added a skeg, as I became busy building my Long Micro. My
Gypsy gets very little use these days. I suggest that you build your
Gypsy to spec and try it out. I found that it rowed well, until I
started rowing at top speed. At top speed, the boat will suddenly
jerk/turn 90 degrees (port or starboard, as she sees fit) and
basically slide to a stop. Doesn't make the rower look proficient,
and impedes progress. I do not recall if keeping the dagger board down
helped it track straighter- I probably tried it and it didn't work.
One day I got caught out in some pretty horrible winds and waves and
found myself rowing frantically, into the wind and waves, for the
dock. I rowed with all my might as spray washed over the bow.
Knuckles were white, mouth was dry, swear-words filled the air.
Although I was making very slow progress over-ground, the water
pushing past the hull was enough to cause my Gypsy to twist suddenly
side-to-side; putting me broadside to the waves. This happened
repeatedly and it wasn't fun. The harder I rowed into the wind, the
more it happened.
If I get back into sailing my Gypsy again, I'll add a short skeg. I
don't see how it would harm tracking. There was a discussion about
Gypsy skegs on this group and someone added a skeg. A search should
locate the discussion. I think Susan was involved? Anyone else have
experience with skeggin' their Gypsy?
I don't want to be negative about the Gypsy. It's a truly great boat
and I had a blast building and sailing mine.
One last tidbit of advice. Try cutting your daggerboard and rudder at
45 degrees to the grain of your plywood. I cut mine along the grain
(that is, the plywood grain runs up-and-down, and side-to-side in my
foils). I saw someone cut their daggerboard with the grain running at
45 degree angles; it's supposed to keep the foils from warping. My
dagger board has since warped a bit but it's been around for 10 years now.
Please keep us posted with your progress. Pictures are always appreciated.
Bill, in Ohio
I never added a skeg, as I became busy building my Long Micro. My
Gypsy gets very little use these days. I suggest that you build your
Gypsy to spec and try it out. I found that it rowed well, until I
started rowing at top speed. At top speed, the boat will suddenly
jerk/turn 90 degrees (port or starboard, as she sees fit) and
basically slide to a stop. Doesn't make the rower look proficient,
and impedes progress. I do not recall if keeping the dagger board down
helped it track straighter- I probably tried it and it didn't work.
One day I got caught out in some pretty horrible winds and waves and
found myself rowing frantically, into the wind and waves, for the
dock. I rowed with all my might as spray washed over the bow.
Knuckles were white, mouth was dry, swear-words filled the air.
Although I was making very slow progress over-ground, the water
pushing past the hull was enough to cause my Gypsy to twist suddenly
side-to-side; putting me broadside to the waves. This happened
repeatedly and it wasn't fun. The harder I rowed into the wind, the
more it happened.
If I get back into sailing my Gypsy again, I'll add a short skeg. I
don't see how it would harm tracking. There was a discussion about
Gypsy skegs on this group and someone added a skeg. A search should
locate the discussion. I think Susan was involved? Anyone else have
experience with skeggin' their Gypsy?
I don't want to be negative about the Gypsy. It's a truly great boat
and I had a blast building and sailing mine.
One last tidbit of advice. Try cutting your daggerboard and rudder at
45 degrees to the grain of your plywood. I cut mine along the grain
(that is, the plywood grain runs up-and-down, and side-to-side in my
foils). I saw someone cut their daggerboard with the grain running at
45 degree angles; it's supposed to keep the foils from warping. My
dagger board has since warped a bit but it's been around for 10 years now.
Please keep us posted with your progress. Pictures are always appreciated.
Bill, in Ohio
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "ksapelkin" <iiqtub5086@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Bill,
>
> I agree. It seemed like overkill to me, but to quote chapter and
> verse,
>
> Payson: Build the new instant boats page 48:
>
> "Twelve yards of 10-ounce 38-inch cloth will cover her hull
> completely."
>
> Further:
>
> "When you're glassing Gypsy's sides, you'll find that a strip of 38-
> inch cloth will reach from one sheer across her bottom and nearly to
> the opposite chine."
>
> If Gypsy is about 5 yards long and instructions call for 12 yards,
> that seems to indicate that the bottom ends up with TWO layers of 10
> ounce glass.
>
> BTW he calls for some additional glass at the stem and forefoot to
> protect the boat when beaching.
>
> Does the skeg detract from the sailing performance?
>
> Kirill
>
>
Hello Bill,
I agree. It seemed like overkill to me, but to quote chapter and
verse,
Payson: Build the new instant boats page 48:
"Twelve yards of 10-ounce 38-inch cloth will cover her hull
completely."
Further:
"When you're glassing Gypsy's sides, you'll find that a strip of 38-
inch cloth will reach from one sheer across her bottom and nearly to
the opposite chine."
If Gypsy is about 5 yards long and instructions call for 12 yards,
that seems to indicate that the bottom ends up with TWO layers of 10
ounce glass.
BTW he calls for some additional glass at the stem and forefoot to
protect the boat when beaching.
Does the skeg detract from the sailing performance?
Kirill
I agree. It seemed like overkill to me, but to quote chapter and
verse,
Payson: Build the new instant boats page 48:
"Twelve yards of 10-ounce 38-inch cloth will cover her hull
completely."
Further:
"When you're glassing Gypsy's sides, you'll find that a strip of 38-
inch cloth will reach from one sheer across her bottom and nearly to
the opposite chine."
If Gypsy is about 5 yards long and instructions call for 12 yards,
that seems to indicate that the bottom ends up with TWO layers of 10
ounce glass.
BTW he calls for some additional glass at the stem and forefoot to
protect the boat when beaching.
Does the skeg detract from the sailing performance?
Kirill
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bill" <kingw@...> wrote:
>
> Kirill,
> Ten oz. glass!? Wow. I used 4 oz. on the outside of my Gypsy and
> coated the inside with epoxy resin (and paint). My Gypsy is now 10
> years old. If you are beaching your boat a lot, the thicker
> fiberglass might be worth it. I repeatedly wore thru the glass on
> the "nose" of my Gypsy (the very forward-most part of the bottom
> panel), and eventually glued a piece of aluminum there, to take the
> brunt of beaching. The aluminum worked well.
>
> I've stored my Gypsy outside, upside down for most of her 10
years.
> The 4 oz. glass has held up fine. The one winter I stored her
> upright (with a cover), the cover leaked and she got some water
> inside. I caught it in time, so she wasn't subjected to repeated
> freeze-thaw cycles. Not a good thing, but she survived OK. If
your
> boat will regularly have water sitting inside, it may be prudent to
> use fiberglass on the inside too. There's a recent Diablo demise
to
> support this suggestion.
>
> Ten oz. seems like a lot, but it depends on how rough you plan to
be.
> It's a great boat, by the way. It will row straighter with a short
> skeg on the bottom. It sails a little tender, and it death rolls
> when it jibes, but it's a fantastic boat to sail, and you'll get
> plenty of compliments.
>
> Bill, in Ohio
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "ksapelkin" <iiqtub5086@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > The Gypsy instructions call for 10 oz. glass on the the outside
of
> the the
> > hull and paint only on the inside.
> >
> > Would it be an improvement to glass the inside as well?
> >
> > To keep weight down I thought to use 10 oz. glass on the bottom
and
> 4 oz
> > on the bilge and side panels. Inside and out. Likewise 4 oz on
the
> > framing. 10 oz taping throughout.
> >
> > I settled on Hydrotek for the plywood.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Kirill
> >
>
Kirill,
Ten oz. glass!? Wow. I used 4 oz. on the outside of my Gypsy and
coated the inside with epoxy resin (and paint). My Gypsy is now 10
years old. If you are beaching your boat a lot, the thicker
fiberglass might be worth it. I repeatedly wore thru the glass on
the "nose" of my Gypsy (the very forward-most part of the bottom
panel), and eventually glued a piece of aluminum there, to take the
brunt of beaching. The aluminum worked well.
I've stored my Gypsy outside, upside down for most of her 10 years.
The 4 oz. glass has held up fine. The one winter I stored her
upright (with a cover), the cover leaked and she got some water
inside. I caught it in time, so she wasn't subjected to repeated
freeze-thaw cycles. Not a good thing, but she survived OK. If your
boat will regularly have water sitting inside, it may be prudent to
use fiberglass on the inside too. There's a recent Diablo demise to
support this suggestion.
Ten oz. seems like a lot, but it depends on how rough you plan to be.
It's a great boat, by the way. It will row straighter with a short
skeg on the bottom. It sails a little tender, and it death rolls
when it jibes, but it's a fantastic boat to sail, and you'll get
plenty of compliments.
Bill, in Ohio
Ten oz. glass!? Wow. I used 4 oz. on the outside of my Gypsy and
coated the inside with epoxy resin (and paint). My Gypsy is now 10
years old. If you are beaching your boat a lot, the thicker
fiberglass might be worth it. I repeatedly wore thru the glass on
the "nose" of my Gypsy (the very forward-most part of the bottom
panel), and eventually glued a piece of aluminum there, to take the
brunt of beaching. The aluminum worked well.
I've stored my Gypsy outside, upside down for most of her 10 years.
The 4 oz. glass has held up fine. The one winter I stored her
upright (with a cover), the cover leaked and she got some water
inside. I caught it in time, so she wasn't subjected to repeated
freeze-thaw cycles. Not a good thing, but she survived OK. If your
boat will regularly have water sitting inside, it may be prudent to
use fiberglass on the inside too. There's a recent Diablo demise to
support this suggestion.
Ten oz. seems like a lot, but it depends on how rough you plan to be.
It's a great boat, by the way. It will row straighter with a short
skeg on the bottom. It sails a little tender, and it death rolls
when it jibes, but it's a fantastic boat to sail, and you'll get
plenty of compliments.
Bill, in Ohio
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "ksapelkin" <iiqtub5086@...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> The Gypsy instructions call for 10 oz. glass on the the outside of
the the
> hull and paint only on the inside.
>
> Would it be an improvement to glass the inside as well?
>
> To keep weight down I thought to use 10 oz. glass on the bottom and
4 oz
> on the bilge and side panels. Inside and out. Likewise 4 oz on the
> framing. 10 oz taping throughout.
>
> I settled on Hydrotek for the plywood.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Kirill
>
Hello,
The Gypsy instructions call for 10 oz. glass on the the outside of the the
hull and paint only on the inside.
Would it be an improvement to glass the inside as well?
To keep weight down I thought to use 10 oz. glass on the bottom and 4 oz
on the bilge and side panels. Inside and out. Likewise 4 oz on the
framing. 10 oz taping throughout.
I settled on Hydrotek for the plywood.
Thanks.
Kirill
The Gypsy instructions call for 10 oz. glass on the the outside of the the
hull and paint only on the inside.
Would it be an improvement to glass the inside as well?
To keep weight down I thought to use 10 oz. glass on the bottom and 4 oz
on the bilge and side panels. Inside and out. Likewise 4 oz on the
framing. 10 oz taping throughout.
I settled on Hydrotek for the plywood.
Thanks.
Kirill