Re: Light Dory Evaluation
> I used 8' sheets butted together using fiberglass butts.out
> I've used this method on several boats and have never had a
> problem with any of them. I've got some photos, if I ever figure
> how to scan them and then post them I'll get them up for you tosee!
Thanks Jake,
I have seen pictures of butting with fiberglass and epoxy only but
have been very skeptical of it. Heck I'm game to try it out. I really
want to use marine ply on that one and if I don'r butcher the wood,
brightside most of it. How would the glass butt look unpainted?
Thats the problem with any other method, scarfing makes the length to
short or but blocks stick out like a sore thumb on this design? I
used butt blocks on my Pointy Skiff and don't like them at all.
Rich
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Rich Deming" <thedemings@n...> wrote:
I used 8' sheets butted together using fiberglass butts.
I've used this method on several boats and have never had a
problem with any of them. I've got some photos, if I ever figure out
how to scan them and then post them I'll get them up for you to see!
Jake
> Hi Jake,like
> Did you use 16' pannels or butt 2 - 8 footers together? I have
> searched to no avail for 16' 1/4" pannels. Thats the way I would
> to go with s&g. Any source would be appreciated.Hi Rich,
> Thanks
> Rich
> PS.. any pictures of the dory?
>
> SNIP>
> >I bought Payson's "How to Build the Light Dory" read it over
> > and over until I didn't have any questions about how I would build
> > the
> > boat or in what sequence then got started.
> > Enjoy your boats!,
> > Jake Millar
I used 8' sheets butted together using fiberglass butts.
I've used this method on several boats and have never had a
problem with any of them. I've got some photos, if I ever figure out
how to scan them and then post them I'll get them up for you to see!
Jake
Hi Jake,
Did you use 16' pannels or butt 2 - 8 footers together? I have
searched to no avail for 16' 1/4" pannels. Thats the way I would like
to go with s&g. Any source would be appreciated.
Thanks
Rich
PS.. any pictures of the dory?
SNIP>
Did you use 16' pannels or butt 2 - 8 footers together? I have
searched to no avail for 16' 1/4" pannels. Thats the way I would like
to go with s&g. Any source would be appreciated.
Thanks
Rich
PS.. any pictures of the dory?
SNIP>
>I bought Payson's "How to Build the Light Dory" read it over
> and over until I didn't have any questions about how I would build
> the
> boat or in what sequence then got started.
> Enjoy your boats!,
> Jake Millar
After rowing my Light Dory now for 3 months, (launched back in
April)I have some observations on performance, construction, etc...
that I thought might be useful to prospective builders.
First - this boat is fast! It doesn't take much effort to get her
up
to speed and it actually feels as though pulling extra hard is just
wasted energy. A smooth, steady pace moves her along fine. I built
her to help lose the "house that Heineken built" and am glad
to report that results are beginning to show! I'm really enjoying my
nightly rows on our creek, and just about everyone I've met has
stopped me to compliment the boats classic appearance and nice
finish.
Good oars are a must! My wife got me a pair of S&T 7 1/2' spoonblade
oars for Christmas and though they cost alot, they were well worth
every dollar.
Second - I built my boat light. After seeing boats built to
design specs and talking with other builders who went with 1/4" ply
for sides and bottom I knew I wanted a stiffer boat but also wanted
to
keep the weight down. I built my boat with 1/4" sides and 3/8" bottom
with 3/4" transom and mid-frame as well as seat risers. My boat was
built stitch and glue, glassing all inside/outside chines and a heavy
coat of glass on the bottom to allow for rough use. Finish weight is
around 85-90 lbs, easily cartopable if somewhat awkward due to the
wide beam. After frequent use over several months I'm glad I glassed
heavy in the bow as signs of wear are beginning to show(paints rubbed
off down to the primer but the glass is solid), I think I might
reinforce the keel with a piece of 3/4" brass stem band material
screwed the length of the keel to protect it from low tide haul outs.
Other than that very minor change I'm very happy with my Light Dory.
Other observations - she handles chop and boat wakes easily, I've
had her out in some rough stuff on Barnegat Bay and it was actually
fun to row into 1-2' surf in the bay and even more fun to ride it
home! The only real criticism I have is that when rowing into a
strong
head wind the high bow tends to get blown to one side or the other if
you don't keep her dead to windward. This is probably why Michalak's
SportDory has a much less pronounced sheer, though Bolger's Light
Dory
is the hands down winner in the "looks" dept. If you are considering
building this boat I'd say get to it! She's easily built and great
fun
to use. I bought Payson's "How to Build the Light Dory" read it over
and over until I didn't have any questions about how I would build
the
boat or in what sequence then got started.
Enjoy your boats!,
Jake Millar
April)I have some observations on performance, construction, etc...
that I thought might be useful to prospective builders.
First - this boat is fast! It doesn't take much effort to get her
up
to speed and it actually feels as though pulling extra hard is just
wasted energy. A smooth, steady pace moves her along fine. I built
her to help lose the "house that Heineken built" and am glad
to report that results are beginning to show! I'm really enjoying my
nightly rows on our creek, and just about everyone I've met has
stopped me to compliment the boats classic appearance and nice
finish.
Good oars are a must! My wife got me a pair of S&T 7 1/2' spoonblade
oars for Christmas and though they cost alot, they were well worth
every dollar.
Second - I built my boat light. After seeing boats built to
design specs and talking with other builders who went with 1/4" ply
for sides and bottom I knew I wanted a stiffer boat but also wanted
to
keep the weight down. I built my boat with 1/4" sides and 3/8" bottom
with 3/4" transom and mid-frame as well as seat risers. My boat was
built stitch and glue, glassing all inside/outside chines and a heavy
coat of glass on the bottom to allow for rough use. Finish weight is
around 85-90 lbs, easily cartopable if somewhat awkward due to the
wide beam. After frequent use over several months I'm glad I glassed
heavy in the bow as signs of wear are beginning to show(paints rubbed
off down to the primer but the glass is solid), I think I might
reinforce the keel with a piece of 3/4" brass stem band material
screwed the length of the keel to protect it from low tide haul outs.
Other than that very minor change I'm very happy with my Light Dory.
Other observations - she handles chop and boat wakes easily, I've
had her out in some rough stuff on Barnegat Bay and it was actually
fun to row into 1-2' surf in the bay and even more fun to ride it
home! The only real criticism I have is that when rowing into a
strong
head wind the high bow tends to get blown to one side or the other if
you don't keep her dead to windward. This is probably why Michalak's
SportDory has a much less pronounced sheer, though Bolger's Light
Dory
is the hands down winner in the "looks" dept. If you are considering
building this boat I'd say get to it! She's easily built and great
fun
to use. I bought Payson's "How to Build the Light Dory" read it over
and over until I didn't have any questions about how I would build
the
boat or in what sequence then got started.
Enjoy your boats!,
Jake Millar