Re: Random Orbital sanders and 4 1/2 inch grinders
It is an axiom of brush motor design that brush life goes down
substantially as current increases. And current increases with load.
Push an already undersized motor hard and brush life literally goes
from hours to minutes.
Bottom line: Bog your electric tools down and they will die quickly.
So let the tool do the work.
FWIW, we go through lots of 4.5" angle grinders at work. The Metabo
holds up best and always gets stolen before wearing out.
Doug
substantially as current increases. And current increases with load.
Push an already undersized motor hard and brush life literally goes
from hours to minutes.
Bottom line: Bog your electric tools down and they will die quickly.
So let the tool do the work.
FWIW, we go through lots of 4.5" angle grinders at work. The Metabo
holds up best and always gets stolen before wearing out.
Doug
Thanks, yall just made my day :-)
Caloosarat
_____
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Peter Lenihan
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 12:37 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Random Orbital sanders and 4 1/2 inch grinders
--- In bolger@yahoogroups. <mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com> com, Kristine
Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
butt! :)
Aye! Guilty as charged, your honour! But, when I first read your post,
my minds eye sorta read it that way.Speaks a small volume of where my
mind was at :-) Well, maybe not a small volume...let's call it a
brochure...or a pamphlet...oh all right then,the back of a napkin:-)
Sincerely,
Peter,skipping along the long slope to nowhere fast...........
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Caloosarat
_____
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Peter Lenihan
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 12:37 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Random Orbital sanders and 4 1/2 inch grinders
--- In bolger@yahoogroups. <mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com> com, Kristine
Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
>words... I didn't leave them out like you had me thinking!! You
> Ahhh Peter I didn't make the mistake...You took out a couple of
butt! :)
Aye! Guilty as charged, your honour! But, when I first read your post,
my minds eye sorta read it that way.Speaks a small volume of where my
mind was at :-) Well, maybe not a small volume...let's call it a
brochure...or a pamphlet...oh all right then,the back of a napkin:-)
Sincerely,
Peter,skipping along the long slope to nowhere fast...........
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
butt! :)
Aye! Guilty as charged, your honour! But, when I first read your post,
my minds eye sorta read it that way.Speaks a small volume of where my
mind was at :-) Well, maybe not a small volume...let's call it a
brochure...or a pamphlet...oh all right then,the back of a napkin:-)
Sincerely,
Peter,skipping along the long slope to nowhere fast...........
>words... I didn't leave them out like you had me thinking!! You
> Ahhh Peter I didn't make the mistake...You took out a couple of
butt! :)
Aye! Guilty as charged, your honour! But, when I first read your post,
my minds eye sorta read it that way.Speaks a small volume of where my
mind was at :-) Well, maybe not a small volume...let's call it a
brochure...or a pamphlet...oh all right then,the back of a napkin:-)
Sincerely,
Peter,skipping along the long slope to nowhere fast...........
Ahhh Peter I didn't make the mistake...You took out a couple of words... I didn't leave them out like you had me thinking!! You butt! :)
Blesssings Krissie
Peter Lenihan <peterlenihan@...> wrote: --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
OOOOH......... this is tempting...........but I won't(biting
tongue,wrist and fingers)go there !......:-D
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, trying desperately to be a model of restraint and good
taste :-)...........
---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Blesssings Krissie
Peter Lenihan <peterlenihan@...> wrote: --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
> Blowing them every 10 to 15 mins does wonders to help them live!But I can't get the guys to do it!
OOOOH......... this is tempting...........but I won't(biting
tongue,wrist and fingers)go there !......:-D
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, trying desperately to be a model of restraint and good
taste :-)...........
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
LOL Gee I have not a single idea why??!! I see the dyke left a few words out of her message... Funny I understood what I was trying to say.
Blessings Krissie
Peter Lenihan <peterlenihan@...> wrote: --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
OOOOH......... this is tempting...........but I won't(biting
tongue,wrist and fingers)go there !......:-D
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, trying desperately to be a model of restraint and good
taste :-)...........
---------------------------------
Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. Make Yahoo! your homepage.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Blessings Krissie
Peter Lenihan <peterlenihan@...> wrote: --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
> Blowing them every 10 to 15 mins does wonders to help them live!But I can't get the guys to do it!
OOOOH......... this is tempting...........but I won't(biting
tongue,wrist and fingers)go there !......:-D
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, trying desperately to be a model of restraint and good
taste :-)...........
---------------------------------
Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. Make Yahoo! your homepage.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
RO Air tools are Noisy; However what is more noisy than the actual tool in
my case is my compressor constantly kicking in! These use a LOT of airflow.
If you're going to go this way you better have a heavy duty piston driven
compressor with a huge tank.
I use 3M 77 spray adhesive. Disks are a lot cheaper! I also like being able
to use very fine grit, wet sanding sandpaper. (This is for paint work; not
wood work...)
There is absolutely a qualitative difference in tools between different
brands. However I am NOT a professional woodworker. Just as I use a $3000
Apple laptop for my work (I'm a programmer; work spend 50-60 hours a week on
the thing) I would recommend most people to buy a $600 laptop. This is not
financially justified; It's just nice when you spend a LOT of time with a
tool to have the best one you can get.
Most of my power tools are RYOBI. I like them; they're cheap; they're good
enough for me... and let's face it; they get barely any work done on them;
maybe a few hours a year per tool.(My most popular tools; my electrical saws
get maybe 20 hours of actual work a year on each of them; and I doubt that
it's that much!
What I did spend money on:
High quality sharpening stones. You won't find these at harbor freight!
A GOOD quality chisel set
A GOOD quality block plane
(I bought chisel set and block plane used on ebay. Although I could have
bought multiple new sets at harbor freight for what I paid these are a
pleasure to work with. Also It didn't break the bank: Instead of $10 I would
pay $30 which is very acceptable to me for a tool I'll hopefully be using
for a lot of years to come.)
A GOOD quality Japanese pull saw
GOOD quality measuring tools
The rest of my tools are all cheap. I'd prefer to spend my money on quality
wood and epoxy. I especially consider epoxy to be very important since you
can't visually inspect it when you buy it so you have to depend on brand
name. I also have been bitten in the past in the @ss using cheap epoxy on a
canoe. I have used West system 3 exclusively since that happened.
Hajo
my case is my compressor constantly kicking in! These use a LOT of airflow.
If you're going to go this way you better have a heavy duty piston driven
compressor with a huge tank.
I use 3M 77 spray adhesive. Disks are a lot cheaper! I also like being able
to use very fine grit, wet sanding sandpaper. (This is for paint work; not
wood work...)
There is absolutely a qualitative difference in tools between different
brands. However I am NOT a professional woodworker. Just as I use a $3000
Apple laptop for my work (I'm a programmer; work spend 50-60 hours a week on
the thing) I would recommend most people to buy a $600 laptop. This is not
financially justified; It's just nice when you spend a LOT of time with a
tool to have the best one you can get.
Most of my power tools are RYOBI. I like them; they're cheap; they're good
enough for me... and let's face it; they get barely any work done on them;
maybe a few hours a year per tool.(My most popular tools; my electrical saws
get maybe 20 hours of actual work a year on each of them; and I doubt that
it's that much!
What I did spend money on:
High quality sharpening stones. You won't find these at harbor freight!
A GOOD quality chisel set
A GOOD quality block plane
(I bought chisel set and block plane used on ebay. Although I could have
bought multiple new sets at harbor freight for what I paid these are a
pleasure to work with. Also It didn't break the bank: Instead of $10 I would
pay $30 which is very acceptable to me for a tool I'll hopefully be using
for a lot of years to come.)
A GOOD quality Japanese pull saw
GOOD quality measuring tools
The rest of my tools are all cheap. I'd prefer to spend my money on quality
wood and epoxy. I especially consider epoxy to be very important since you
can't visually inspect it when you buy it so you have to depend on brand
name. I also have been bitten in the past in the @ss using cheap epoxy on a
canoe. I have used West system 3 exclusively since that happened.
Hajo
On Dec 3, 2007 3:21 PM, Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
> Not to rock the boat,
>
> 1) I am curious if an Random Orbital air tool makes sense? Are they
> so obnoxiously noisy that my neighbors will be calling the noise
> control officer?
>
> 2) Also, my 'hook and loop' pad wore out long long ago, after a few
> days hard use, and ever since (500 disks or so) I have been using 3M
> 77 spray adhesive instead.
>
> 3) I don't want to argue with the tool group that say 'only the best
> is good enough', but I see that I can buy four $29 generic RO sanders
> for the price of a fancy name brand sander. (And I have a sneaky
> suspicion that all these sanders are made in the same Chinese factory
> anyway)
>
>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93431
>
>
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: How many women does it take to screw in a light bulb?
A: That's "womyn" with a Y, and it's not funny!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I can just about bet she has heard all those jokes already. Good to see
the Amazon is still around and giveing good .... advice.
Jon
the Amazon is still around and giveing good .... advice.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@> wrote:
> > Blowing them every 10 to 15 mins does wonders to help them live!
> But I can't get the guys to do it!
>
> OOOOH......... this is tempting...........but I won't(biting
> tongue,wrist and fingers)go there !......:-D
>
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan, trying desperately to be a model of restraint and good
> taste :-)...........
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
OOOOH......... this is tempting...........but I won't(biting
tongue,wrist and fingers)go there !......:-D
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, trying desperately to be a model of restraint and good
taste :-)...........
> Blowing them every 10 to 15 mins does wonders to help them live!But I can't get the guys to do it!
OOOOH......... this is tempting...........but I won't(biting
tongue,wrist and fingers)go there !......:-D
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, trying desperately to be a model of restraint and good
taste :-)...........
I've been reading the posts on the RO sanders. When it comes to tools you get what you pay for. I have use almost all the brands that have been listed. No matter what brand you use around fiberglass you are going to eat up bearings and brushes. Wood dust will do the same thing only slower.
When it comes to, bang for the buck I've had good luck with the RO sanders and the 4 1/2 inch grinders you can get from Harbor Freight Tools here in the U.S. The one thing I do is pop the gear case on the grinder open and full it with good grease. This goes a long way to get the life out of the gears.
Where I work we have five electric buffers that we use to buff the stainless steel tubing we build boat rails out of... They get used a lot. I have two or three of them pulled apart fixing them every month. The buffing compound just eats them up inside. The big thing is keeping them as clean as you can inside.
Blowing them out every 10 to 15 mins does wonders to help them live! But I can't get the guys to do it!
Here in the U.S. 3M offers some sanding disks and pad that are called Sand Blasters I find the hold up very well grinding and sanding on straight fiberglass. They hold up well fairing out welds on steel as well.
Yes I have to agree with you Bryant "Let the tools do their job" The tools also last a whole lot longer as well!
Bryant Owen <mariner@...> wrote: A lesson I've learned the hard way - after years of people telling me
the same thing. LET THE TOOL DO THE WORK! RO sanders, hand saws,
drills, etc.
Bryant - who is on RO sander #3 and wants it to be the last.
---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
When it comes to, bang for the buck I've had good luck with the RO sanders and the 4 1/2 inch grinders you can get from Harbor Freight Tools here in the U.S. The one thing I do is pop the gear case on the grinder open and full it with good grease. This goes a long way to get the life out of the gears.
Where I work we have five electric buffers that we use to buff the stainless steel tubing we build boat rails out of... They get used a lot. I have two or three of them pulled apart fixing them every month. The buffing compound just eats them up inside. The big thing is keeping them as clean as you can inside.
Blowing them out every 10 to 15 mins does wonders to help them live! But I can't get the guys to do it!
Here in the U.S. 3M offers some sanding disks and pad that are called Sand Blasters I find the hold up very well grinding and sanding on straight fiberglass. They hold up well fairing out welds on steel as well.
Yes I have to agree with you Bryant "Let the tools do their job" The tools also last a whole lot longer as well!
Bryant Owen <mariner@...> wrote: A lesson I've learned the hard way - after years of people telling me
the same thing. LET THE TOOL DO THE WORK! RO sanders, hand saws,
drills, etc.
Bryant - who is on RO sander #3 and wants it to be the last.
---------------------------------
Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
A lesson I've learned the hard way - after years of people telling me
the same thing. LET THE TOOL DO THE WORK! RO sanders, hand saws,
drills, etc.
Bryant - who is on RO sander #3 and wants it to be the last.
the same thing. LET THE TOOL DO THE WORK! RO sanders, hand saws,
drills, etc.
Bryant - who is on RO sander #3 and wants it to be the last.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, BllFs6@... wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 12/3/2007 1:18:51 PM Central Standard Time,
> otter55806@... writes:
>
> Peter Lenihan, who just had a flash, perhaps it is our cold weather
> > that helps keep the machine cool instread of just over-
> heating...not
> > that you would know anything about "cold waether", you, you, lucky
> > Californian, you! :-D......... Cali
> >
>
>
>
> Another random thought on power tools....particularly electric ones...
>
>
> If you are bogging it down....ie trying to drill, cut, sand or
whatever SOOO
> hard that you can hear the motor speed decreasing
significantly....thats
> just plain old BAD for the motor, brushes, and bearings....and
probably isnt
> helping the human body parts either....and is probably less
efficient work
> progress wise either...
>
> Its bad for the bearings because it means you are putting too much
force on
> them....
>
> Its bad for the motor because decreased speed means decreased air
flow in
> COMBINATION with the same IF NOT MORE electrical power being
deposited IN THE
> MOTOR....so less air flow AND MORE heat to get rid of....bad combo...
>
> electrics are unlike internal combustion in that respect....a nearly
stalled
> IC engine aint producing much heat....a near stalled electric is
drawing the
> same, if not more power...and MORE of that energy is going into
HEATING the
> motor....
>
> And yeah, frequent blowing out of the electric motors is probably a
good
> idea as well....
>
> my .02 pesos
>
> Blll
>
>
>
> **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's
hottest
> products.
>
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
You can get a new hook and loop face that glues on at Lowe's for not
much.
Jon
much.
Jon
> 2) Also, my 'hook and loop' pad wore out long long ago, after a few
> days hard use, and ever since (500 disks or so) I have been using 3M
> 77 spray adhesive instead.
In a message dated 12/3/2007 1:18:51 PM Central Standard Time,
otter55806@...writes:
Peter Lenihan, who just had a flash, perhaps it is our cold weather
If you are bogging it down....ie trying to drill, cut, sand or whatever SOOO
hard that you can hear the motor speed decreasing significantly....thats
just plain old BAD for the motor, brushes, and bearings....and probably isnt
helping the human body parts either....and is probably less efficient work
progress wise either...
Its bad for the bearings because it means you are putting too much force on
them....
Its bad for the motor because decreased speed means decreased air flow in
COMBINATION with the same IF NOT MORE electrical power being deposited IN THE
MOTOR....so less air flow AND MORE heat to get rid of....bad combo...
electrics are unlike internal combustion in that respect....a nearly stalled
IC engine aint producing much heat....a near stalled electric is drawing the
same, if not more power...and MORE of that energy is going into HEATING the
motor....
And yeah, frequent blowing out of the electric motors is probably a good
idea as well....
my .02 pesos
Blll
**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
otter55806@...writes:
Peter Lenihan, who just had a flash, perhaps it is our cold weather
> that helps keep the machine cool instread of just over-heating...not
> that you would know anything about "cold waether", you, you, luckyAnother random thought on power tools....particularly electric ones...
> Californian, you! :-D......... Cali
>
If you are bogging it down....ie trying to drill, cut, sand or whatever SOOO
hard that you can hear the motor speed decreasing significantly....thats
just plain old BAD for the motor, brushes, and bearings....and probably isnt
helping the human body parts either....and is probably less efficient work
progress wise either...
Its bad for the bearings because it means you are putting too much force on
them....
Its bad for the motor because decreased speed means decreased air flow in
COMBINATION with the same IF NOT MORE electrical power being deposited IN THE
MOTOR....so less air flow AND MORE heat to get rid of....bad combo...
electrics are unlike internal combustion in that respect....a nearly stalled
IC engine aint producing much heat....a near stalled electric is drawing the
same, if not more power...and MORE of that energy is going into HEATING the
motor....
And yeah, frequent blowing out of the electric motors is probably a good
idea as well....
my .02 pesos
Blll
**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Not to rock the boat,
1) I am curious if an Random Orbital air tool makes sense? Are they
so obnoxiously noisy that my neighbors will be calling the noise
control officer?
2) Also, my 'hook and loop' pad wore out long long ago, after a few
days hard use, and ever since (500 disks or so) I have been using 3M
77 spray adhesive instead.
3) I don't want to argue with the tool group that say 'only the best
is good enough', but I see that I can buy four $29 generic RO sanders
for the price of a fancy name brand sander. (And I have a sneaky
suspicion that all these sanders are made in the same Chinese factory
anyway)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93431
1) I am curious if an Random Orbital air tool makes sense? Are they
so obnoxiously noisy that my neighbors will be calling the noise
control officer?
2) Also, my 'hook and loop' pad wore out long long ago, after a few
days hard use, and ever since (500 disks or so) I have been using 3M
77 spray adhesive instead.
3) I don't want to argue with the tool group that say 'only the best
is good enough', but I see that I can buy four $29 generic RO sanders
for the price of a fancy name brand sander. (And I have a sneaky
suspicion that all these sanders are made in the same Chinese factory
anyway)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93431
There is one other way of going at this. Since almost all the hand
power tools nowdays are junk compared to years ago I figured that no
matter what brand I bought it was going to wear out with all the
sanding on a bigger boat. Therefore I bought an inexpensive Skill
from Menards, on sale for $29.95. I got it replaced twice during it's
two year warrenty. No messing around with sending it to the
manufacturer, just bring it into Menards and go grab a replacement. I
did the same thing with the belt sander. Peter is right on the dust
though. On my good 6" disc sander, which I don't want to wear out
too soon, I blow out the motor often, not just at the end of the day.
Bob Slimak
Who after shoveling 12 inches of snow yesterday can't wait until
January to head south!
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@...>
wrote:
power tools nowdays are junk compared to years ago I figured that no
matter what brand I bought it was going to wear out with all the
sanding on a bigger boat. Therefore I bought an inexpensive Skill
from Menards, on sale for $29.95. I got it replaced twice during it's
two year warrenty. No messing around with sending it to the
manufacturer, just bring it into Menards and go grab a replacement. I
did the same thing with the belt sander. Peter is right on the dust
though. On my good 6" disc sander, which I don't want to wear out
too soon, I blow out the motor often, not just at the end of the day.
Bob Slimak
Who after shoveling 12 inches of snow yesterday can't wait until
January to head south!
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@...>
wrote:
>Buck$
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@> wrote:
> >
> > Having sanded acres of epoxy on Topaz, etc. etc. my trusty
> > Porter-Cable Quicksand (now discontinued) has started to die. I
> > value 1) Powerful 2) Lightweight 3) Durability 4) $Bang for the
> > Any advice on RO sanding?stretches
>
>
> Hi Bruce,
>
> Having sanded acres of epoxy too, on both a Micro and lately on
> WINDERMERE, I have yet to be able to kill my Porter-Cable R/O 333!
> And I have tried mightily too,going for 3,4,and even 5 hour
> non-stop. The little buigger refuses to die. Just out of curiosity,do
> you blow out the dust,from the motor, at the end of each day? Thismay
> be what has fustrated my attempts to kill mine so that Santa canbring
> me new sander:-) With only a few short weeks left before Christmas,I
> should stop blowing out the dust....it may work this time :-Dheating...not
>
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Peter Lenihan, who just had a flash, perhaps it is our cold weather
> that helps keep the machine cool instread of just over-
> that you would know anything about "cold waether", you, you, lucky
> Californian, you! :-D.......................
>
Bruce
I used a Dewalt on the rebuild on my Triton, 350 disks later it is still
going strong. I have it hooked up to a shop vac with what I believe is a
1.5 in in hose. No dust, very effective. The De Walt has a very good
internal fan which assists the vacuum. I was in Sears looking for a
similar rig for my son, $69 for what looked like a good Dewalt, Approx
$50 for a 3 gal vacuum and another $12 for 10 feet of hose. I get my
disks from one of the online sites you recommended.
HJ
David wrote:
I used a Dewalt on the rebuild on my Triton, 350 disks later it is still
going strong. I have it hooked up to a shop vac with what I believe is a
1.5 in in hose. No dust, very effective. The De Walt has a very good
internal fan which assists the vacuum. I was in Sears looking for a
similar rig for my son, $69 for what looked like a good Dewalt, Approx
$50 for a 3 gal vacuum and another $12 for 10 feet of hose. I get my
disks from one of the online sites you recommended.
HJ
David wrote:
> Bruce - it's really hard to find a reasonably priced 5" R.O. sander
> with all of the rest of the attributes listed. I've tried the latest
> P.Cable palm-grip R.O. (about $50) and they didn't hold up in our
> shop. The
> deluxe DeWalt version (about $70) was better.
>
> Despite being very happy with all my other Bosch tools, their small
> R.O. was a bust. What I've settled on for the workhorse is the Bosch
> D-handle (about $120) 3725EVS. I have three of these now and the
> oldest is still going strong after maybe 8 years in a high-production
> environment. Since I've scaled back to semi-retirement, I expect them
> to last me a good long time. But... if I ever have too much money
> burning a hole in my pocket, I'll upgrade to a Festool RO150 (about $450).
>
> Conclusion. I recommend the Bosch D-handle. Anything less than the
> DeWalt is a crapshoot - not doomed, but odds not great.
>
> Cheers,
> David Graybeal
> Portland, OR
>
> "The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by
> those who have not got it" -- George Bernard Shaw
>
> *********
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
>> Having sanded acres of epoxy on Topaz, etc. etc. my trusty
>> Porter-Cable Quicksand (now discontinued) has started to die. I
>> value 1) Powerful 2) Lightweight 3) Durability 4) $Bang for the Buck$
>> Any advice on RO sanding?
>>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
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I just go my Porter cable rebuilt for less than $30 New bearings, two
gears, a switch and new cable. I hope to get a few more years out of
it. Boy it as earned it's way over the years.I was expecting at the
very least a $ 50 bill.
Doug
Bruce Hallman wrote:
gears, a switch and new cable. I hope to get a few more years out of
it. Boy it as earned it's way over the years.I was expecting at the
very least a $ 50 bill.
Doug
Bruce Hallman wrote:
>
> Having sanded acres of epoxy on Topaz, etc. etc. my trusty
> Porter-Cable Quicksand (now discontinued) has started to die. I
> value 1) Powerful 2) Lightweight 3) Durability 4) $Bang for the Buck$
> Any advice on RO sanding?
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
Having sanded acres of epoxy too, on both a Micro and lately on
WINDERMERE, I have yet to be able to kill my Porter-Cable R/O 333!
And I have tried mightily too,going for 3,4,and even 5 hour stretches
non-stop. The little buigger refuses to die. Just out of curiosity, do
you blow out the dust,from the motor, at the end of each day? This may
be what has fustrated my attempts to kill mine so that Santa can bring
me new sander:-) With only a few short weeks left before Christmas, I
should stop blowing out the dust....it may work this time :-D
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, who just had a flash, perhaps it is our cold weather
that helps keep the machine cool instread of just over-heating...not
that you would know anything about "cold waether", you, you, lucky
Californian, you! :-D.......................
>Hi Bruce,
> Having sanded acres of epoxy on Topaz, etc. etc. my trusty
> Porter-Cable Quicksand (now discontinued) has started to die. I
> value 1) Powerful 2) Lightweight 3) Durability 4) $Bang for the Buck$
> Any advice on RO sanding?
Having sanded acres of epoxy too, on both a Micro and lately on
WINDERMERE, I have yet to be able to kill my Porter-Cable R/O 333!
And I have tried mightily too,going for 3,4,and even 5 hour stretches
non-stop. The little buigger refuses to die. Just out of curiosity, do
you blow out the dust,from the motor, at the end of each day? This may
be what has fustrated my attempts to kill mine so that Santa can bring
me new sander:-) With only a few short weeks left before Christmas, I
should stop blowing out the dust....it may work this time :-D
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, who just had a flash, perhaps it is our cold weather
that helps keep the machine cool instread of just over-heating...not
that you would know anything about "cold waether", you, you, lucky
Californian, you! :-D.......................
I fond that with power tools when you work them hard a lot or around
things that can be abrasive it eats the brushes. More and more brushes
are cheaper and give no warning when they are getting down or can be
replaced. Disposable world thought. We need more tools we can fix
cheaply ourselfs.
Jon
things that can be abrasive it eats the brushes. More and more brushes
are cheaper and give no warning when they are getting down or can be
replaced. Disposable world thought. We need more tools we can fix
cheaply ourselfs.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bryant Owen" <mariner@...> wrote:
>
> I had the same list and thought P-C. A woodworker I ran into told me
> to go the Ridgid route. Not a lot of use so far but I think it's a
keeper.
>
> Bryant
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@> wrote:
> >
> > Having sanded acres of epoxy on Topaz, etc. etc. my trusty
> > Porter-Cable Quicksand (now discontinued) has started to die. I
> > value 1) Powerful 2) Lightweight 3) Durability 4) $Bang for the
Buck$
> > Any advice on RO sanding?
> >
>
I had the same list and thought P-C. A woodworker I ran into told me
to go the Ridgid route. Not a lot of use so far but I think it's a keeper.
Bryant
to go the Ridgid route. Not a lot of use so far but I think it's a keeper.
Bryant
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> Having sanded acres of epoxy on Topaz, etc. etc. my trusty
> Porter-Cable Quicksand (now discontinued) has started to die. I
> value 1) Powerful 2) Lightweight 3) Durability 4) $Bang for the Buck$
> Any advice on RO sanding?
>
P.C., B&D and Dewalt are all realy the same company now so there is
little differance. Been through 2 Riobi one lasted a long time the
other short 1 Rigged that hooked to the shop-vac a cool feacher. The
one I am useing now is a P.C. that is a little different it has a
band under the pad so it isn't free wheeling but retards the free
spin of the pad. Working good so far. Riged has a lifetime repair and
replacement with it but it was 4 months till I got the warenty card
back and will need to try it. LOL I am almost to the point that a big
compresor and numatic is the best way to go but love ROS as a tool.
Jon
little differance. Been through 2 Riobi one lasted a long time the
other short 1 Rigged that hooked to the shop-vac a cool feacher. The
one I am useing now is a P.C. that is a little different it has a
band under the pad so it isn't free wheeling but retards the free
spin of the pad. Working good so far. Riged has a lifetime repair and
replacement with it but it was 4 months till I got the warenty card
back and will need to try it. LOL I am almost to the point that a big
compresor and numatic is the best way to go but love ROS as a tool.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "David" <arbordg@...> wrote:
>
> Bruce - it's really hard to find a reasonably priced 5" R.O. sander
> with all of the rest of the attributes listed. I've tried the latest
> P.Cable palm-grip R.O. (about $50) and they didn't hold up in our
> shop. The
> deluxe DeWalt version (about $70) was better.
>
> Despite being very happy with all my other Bosch tools, their small
> R.O. was a bust. What I've settled on for the workhorse is the Bosch
> D-handle (about $120) 3725EVS. I have three of these now and the
> oldest is still going strong after maybe 8 years in a high-
production
> environment. Since I've scaled back to semi-retirement, I expect
them
> to last me a good long time. But... if I ever have too much money
> burning a hole in my pocket, I'll upgrade to a Festool RO150 (about
$450).
>
> Conclusion. I recommend the Bosch D-handle. Anything less than the
> DeWalt is a crapshoot - not doomed, but odds not great.
>
> Cheers,
> David Graybeal
> Portland, OR
>
> "The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by
> those who have not got it" -- George Bernard Shaw
>
> *********
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@> wrote:
> >
> > Having sanded acres of epoxy on Topaz, etc. etc. my trusty
> > Porter-Cable Quicksand (now discontinued) has started to die. I
> > value 1) Powerful 2) Lightweight 3) Durability 4) $Bang for the
Buck$
> > Any advice on RO sanding?
>
Bruce - it's really hard to find a reasonably priced 5" R.O. sander
with all of the rest of the attributes listed. I've tried the latest
P.Cable palm-grip R.O. (about $50) and they didn't hold up in our
shop. The
deluxe DeWalt version (about $70) was better.
Despite being very happy with all my other Bosch tools, their small
R.O. was a bust. What I've settled on for the workhorse is the Bosch
D-handle (about $120) 3725EVS. I have three of these now and the
oldest is still going strong after maybe 8 years in a high-production
environment. Since I've scaled back to semi-retirement, I expect them
to last me a good long time. But... if I ever have too much money
burning a hole in my pocket, I'll upgrade to a Festool RO150 (about $450).
Conclusion. I recommend the Bosch D-handle. Anything less than the
DeWalt is a crapshoot - not doomed, but odds not great.
Cheers,
David Graybeal
Portland, OR
"The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by
those who have not got it" -- George Bernard Shaw
*********
with all of the rest of the attributes listed. I've tried the latest
P.Cable palm-grip R.O. (about $50) and they didn't hold up in our
shop. The
deluxe DeWalt version (about $70) was better.
Despite being very happy with all my other Bosch tools, their small
R.O. was a bust. What I've settled on for the workhorse is the Bosch
D-handle (about $120) 3725EVS. I have three of these now and the
oldest is still going strong after maybe 8 years in a high-production
environment. Since I've scaled back to semi-retirement, I expect them
to last me a good long time. But... if I ever have too much money
burning a hole in my pocket, I'll upgrade to a Festool RO150 (about $450).
Conclusion. I recommend the Bosch D-handle. Anything less than the
DeWalt is a crapshoot - not doomed, but odds not great.
Cheers,
David Graybeal
Portland, OR
"The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by
those who have not got it" -- George Bernard Shaw
*********
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> Having sanded acres of epoxy on Topaz, etc. etc. my trusty
> Porter-Cable Quicksand (now discontinued) has started to die. I
> value 1) Powerful 2) Lightweight 3) Durability 4) $Bang for the Buck$
> Any advice on RO sanding?
Having sanded acres of epoxy on Topaz, etc. etc. my trusty
Porter-Cable Quicksand (now discontinued) has started to die. I
value 1) Powerful 2) Lightweight 3) Durability 4) $Bang for the Buck$
Any advice on RO sanding?
Porter-Cable Quicksand (now discontinued) has started to die. I
value 1) Powerful 2) Lightweight 3) Durability 4) $Bang for the Buck$
Any advice on RO sanding?