Re: Fldg Schnr Cont sharp edges?
It's me again, the ancient Folding Schooner (#17). My first set of
bilge boards had to be replaced early on due to grounding. The
bottom of the boards got scraped enough times for water to make its
way inside the board and warp it. The boards also cracked where they
exited the hull due to the sideward motion of the boat when aground.
The second set of boards were left a little thicker around the edges,
not sharp at all, and a piece of fiberglass cloth was glued on rather
carelessly along the bottom of each board. The second set has lasted
almost twenty years and are not warped or cracked.
Godd sailing,
Rich Sharp
bilge boards had to be replaced early on due to grounding. The
bottom of the boards got scraped enough times for water to make its
way inside the board and warp it. The boards also cracked where they
exited the hull due to the sideward motion of the boat when aground.
The second set of boards were left a little thicker around the edges,
not sharp at all, and a piece of fiberglass cloth was glued on rather
carelessly along the bottom of each board. The second set has lasted
almost twenty years and are not warped or cracked.
Godd sailing,
Rich Sharp
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Leander S. Harding" <lharding@s...> wrote:
> The race continues to complete the Folding Schooner before our
> vacation in Maine at the end of July. Purchased some Sherwin
Williams
> Pro Block latex primer and doing a lot of sanding. Building up
> courage
> for making the masts. Have picked out a gray color for the interior
> and wondering about hull colors. Need to have the hinge made up by
a
> local welding shop. Asking friends and family to read the Polytarp
> websites so we can have a sail making bee.
>
> A friend lent me his Makita power plane and I used it to put the
> bevel on the bilge boards and rudder. It had taken me about two
hours
> to get the bevel on one side of one of the boards with a hand
plane.
> This did the same job in about ten minutes. I am wondering about
> putting some fiberglass tape and epoxy on the edges for strength.
> The
> planing uncovered some voids which have to be filled in any event.
> Anybody have experience with wrapping the tape around a sharp edge
> like this? What have other folks done to finish off the fair edges
> of
> the Bolger dagger boards, bilge boards or rud
The race continues to complete the Folding Schooner before our
vacation in Maine at the end of July. Purchased some Sherwin Williams
Pro Block latex primer and doing a lot of sanding. Building up
courage
for making the masts. Have picked out a gray color for the interior
and wondering about hull colors. Need to have the hinge made up by a
local welding shop. Asking friends and family to read the Polytarp
websites so we can have a sail making bee.
A friend lent me his Makita power plane and I used it to put the
bevel on the bilge boards and rudder. It had taken me about two hours
to get the bevel on one side of one of the boards with a hand plane.
This did the same job in about ten minutes. I am wondering about
putting some fiberglass tape and epoxy on the edges for strength.
The
planing uncovered some voids which have to be filled in any event.
Anybody have experience with wrapping the tape around a sharp edge
like this? What have other folks done to finish off the fair edges
of
the Bolger dagger boards, bilge boards or rud
vacation in Maine at the end of July. Purchased some Sherwin Williams
Pro Block latex primer and doing a lot of sanding. Building up
courage
for making the masts. Have picked out a gray color for the interior
and wondering about hull colors. Need to have the hinge made up by a
local welding shop. Asking friends and family to read the Polytarp
websites so we can have a sail making bee.
A friend lent me his Makita power plane and I used it to put the
bevel on the bilge boards and rudder. It had taken me about two hours
to get the bevel on one side of one of the boards with a hand plane.
This did the same job in about ten minutes. I am wondering about
putting some fiberglass tape and epoxy on the edges for strength.
The
planing uncovered some voids which have to be filled in any event.
Anybody have experience with wrapping the tape around a sharp edge
like this? What have other folks done to finish off the fair edges
of
the Bolger dagger boards, bilge boards or rud