Re: pressure treated lumber

My experience is you have to pick the lumber carefully. Some will
twist and split as the wood dries (if the treatment was relatively
recent) and some will split while being cut. Some is very hard and
strong, some is soft and breaks easily. Gluing with epoxy can be
tricky. I've had some where a coat was brushed on (unthickened) and
a couple minutes later it had all disappeared, apparently absorbed
into the wood (WoodenBoat once had an article about how freshwater
seasoned timer would absorb an extra amount of glue because pores in
the wood had been opened and I wonder if pressure treating does the
same thing). I put some unprotected underwater as fairing and the
worms ate it within a year. I also made some handrails out of 2x4
and protected it only with paint and installed it in the cockpit.
They
rotted in less than two years. In other applications, where it has
been sealed with epoxy, it has lasted as well as any other wood. I
don't know about the fumes, except I read somewhere one should always
wear a mask when cutting or sanding pressure treated wood.

Gary Blankenship
Tallahassee, FL


--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Derek Waters" <dgw@d...> wrote:
> Hi Group
>
> Anyone have any comments on or experience with using pressure
treated lumber for 'instant boat' framing? I'm thinking about Micro's
'rot prone' chine logs and keel timbers.
>
> T.I.A.
> Derek
On Tue, 27 Jun 2000, Derek Waters wrote:
> Anyone have any comments on or experience with using pressure treated
> lumber for 'instant boat' framing? I'm thinking about Micro's 'rot
> prone' chine logs and keel timbers.

I recommend against it.

(1) The stuff is nasty.
(2) The CCA treatment weakens the wood.
(3) CCA is almost always a lower grade southern yellow pine.
(4) The wood has a real tendency to twist.
(5) Some people are concerned about epoxy bonding with it (but not
me)

And, since others have pointed out that the chine logs are not, in
fact, a serious rot magnet on the Micro, I wouldn't worry much about it.

That said, I did use CCA lumber as skids on the bottom of my
shantyboat, epoxied into place. They've worked fine through 3 seasons.
Hello Derek,
Sorry,but I cannot help you with any relevant information about
treated lumber.However,I can assure you that if you build your MICRO
well,you should never have to worry about"rot prone" chine logs!My
biggest grief has been keeping control of dust in the cabin......dry
as a bone!
I did my keel somewhat differently then prescribed on the plans
but have experienced no rot there either.
That being said,I do not know how harsh your environment
is,ie;salt water,tropical and this may effect your choice of woods.
Also,I seem to recall reading Mr.Bolger's comments on sharpies in
general and he suggests that the hull should be the last place to
economize..........
Micro is just small enough to go with premium stock(at least
for the hull) without much damage to the wallet.Beyond basic finances
however,is the question of durability.Many years down the road,the
premium stock will continue to maintain it's integrity and you,your
contented smile of satisfaction and accomplishment!
Best of luck in your choices!

Peter Lenihan,still smiling,on the waters of the St.Lawrence and
waiting with infinite patience(almost!) for summertime weather....






--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Derek Waters" <dgw@d...> wrote:
> Hi Group
>
> Anyone have any comments on or experience with using pressure
treated lumber for 'instant boat' framing? I'm thinking about
Micro's 'rot prone' chine logs and keel timbers.
>
> T.I.A.
> Derek
Hi Group
 
Anyone have any comments on or experience with using pressure treated lumber for 'instant boat' framing? I'm thinking about Micro's 'rot prone' chine logs and keel timbers.
 
T.I.A.
Derek