Re: [bolger] Latex Paint
I can certify that the topsides of the Saint Jan are
still holding the original paint, in good shape,
although delamination and rot continue their progress
through the underlying wood of this neat little boat.
The latex will be the last thing to go, I reckon. Sam
--- James Pope <james.pope1@...> wrote:
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still holding the original paint, in good shape,
although delamination and rot continue their progress
through the underlying wood of this neat little boat.
The latex will be the last thing to go, I reckon. Sam
--- James Pope <james.pope1@...> wrote:
> My Bolger catamaran, Saint Jan, had Sears Best Latex__________________________________________________
> paint on her from
> the day that she was built.
>
> It worked well over plain plywood, epoxy coated
> topsides and epoxy/glass
> sheathed decks All of which was PCB's
> recommendation. I never used any
> primer on her but it all seemed to work OK.
>
> Jim
>
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
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My Bolger catamaran, Saint Jan, had Sears Best Latex paint on her from
the day that she was built.
It worked well over plain plywood, epoxy coated topsides and epoxy/glass
sheathed decks All of which was PCB's recommendation. I never used any
primer on her but it all seemed to work OK.
Jim
the day that she was built.
It worked well over plain plywood, epoxy coated topsides and epoxy/glass
sheathed decks All of which was PCB's recommendation. I never used any
primer on her but it all seemed to work OK.
Jim
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yes, latex sticks as well as any other paint, provided you remove the
blush.
Latex is ok if your hull is not subject to abrasion (you never put
latex on opening timber window sashes), and you don't mind the
relatively poor finish compared with other paints,
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography"
<jkolb@d...> wrote:
blush.
Latex is ok if your hull is not subject to abrasion (you never put
latex on opening timber window sashes), and you don't mind the
relatively poor finish compared with other paints,
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography"
<jkolb@d...> wrote:
>
> I've seen a couple of articles by PB&F recommending good
> old latex house paint for boats large and small, at least for
> topsides. I'm all for this as it would be considerably less
> expensive, not to mention safer to apply, than the exotic two-part
> polyurethanes and other paint systems, so I'd like to try it on my
> almost-ready-for-paint FastBrick. One issue I've never seen
> addressed is what, if any, primer is needed to get latex to stick to
> an epoxy/fiberglass hull. A fax to Bolger a week and a half ago on
> this topic has yet to get a reply. Anybody ever get latex to stick
> to glass/epoxy? If so, how did you do it?
>
> Jon Kolb
If you google his name, you'll get it. Dave is a
chemical engineer/boat nut with some interesting takes
on paint, epoxy, rot prevention, etc., and one of the
world's true gentlemen, as well.
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chemical engineer/boat nut with some interesting takes
on paint, epoxy, rot prevention, etc., and one of the
world's true gentlemen, as well.
---RKAMILS@...wrote:
> IFor more technical and__________________________________
> complete advice, you could check Dave Carnell's
> website.
>
> What is Dave Carnell's web address?
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
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Wash the epoxy with simple soap and water, don't really need to do that
if you sanded it. I have been using KilZ's primer lately and painting
over with an exterior latex, worked good so far.
HJ
adventures_in_astrophotography wrote:
if you sanded it. I have been using KilZ's primer lately and painting
over with an exterior latex, worked good so far.
HJ
adventures_in_astrophotography wrote:
>I've seen a couple of articles by PB&F recommending good
>old latex house paint for boats large and small, at least for
>topsides. I'm all for this as it would be considerably less
>expensive, not to mention safer to apply, than the exotic two-part
>polyurethanes and other paint systems, so I'd like to try it on my
>almost-ready-for-paint FastBrick. One issue I've never seen
>addressed is what, if any, primer is needed to get latex to stick to
>an epoxy/fiberglass hull. A fax to Bolger a week and a half ago on
>this topic has yet to get a reply. Anybody ever get latex to stick
>to glass/epoxy? If so, how did you do it?
>
>Jon Kolb
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
>- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>.
>
>
>
IFor more technical and
complete advice, you could check Dave Carnell's
website.
What is Dave Carnell's web address?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
complete advice, you could check Dave Carnell's
website.
What is Dave Carnell's web address?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> And just where can we find photos of this "almost finished" FastBrick ?
>Did I hear somebody say "Fast Brick"?
> Rick
>
I would love a full article with photos and impressions.
Cheers, Nels (Who also likes BM latex paints.)
Another latex primer that sticks well to epoxy (that's been fresh water rinsed to remove amine blush) is Benjamin Moores "Fresh Start". It will take a few days to toughen up. Use the waterbased, not the oil based. I like BM's "DTM M-28" ; latex for topcoat, but any latex will stick to "Fresh Start" primer.
And just where can we find photos of this "almost finished" Fast Brick ?
Rick
adventures_in_astrophotography <jkolb@...> wrote:
I've seen a couple of <snip> my
almost-ready-for-paint FastBrick. One issue I've never seen
addressed is what, if any, primer is needed to get latex to stick to
an epoxy/fiberglass hull. A fax to Bolger a week and a half ago on
this topic has yet to get a reply. Anybody ever get latex to stick
to glass/epoxy? If so, how did you do it?
Jon Kolb
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
And just where can we find photos of this "almost finished" Fast Brick ?
Rick
adventures_in_astrophotography <jkolb@...> wrote:
I've seen a couple of <snip> my
almost-ready-for-paint FastBrick. One issue I've never seen
addressed is what, if any, primer is needed to get latex to stick to
an epoxy/fiberglass hull. A fax to Bolger a week and a half ago on
this topic has yet to get a reply. Anybody ever get latex to stick
to glass/epoxy? If so, how did you do it?
Jon Kolb
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Herb Payson is a proponent of laytex paint. You might
give him a call. If you are feeling guilty about
wasting his time, buy one of his books, they are all
good.
Phil Smith
give him a call. If you are feeling guilty about
wasting his time, buy one of his books, they are all
good.
Phil Smith
On my Michalak AF4G I just sanded the epoxy as fare
and smooth as much as I could until I got sick of
sanding and gave up. Then I used Glidden Gripper
Primer and Walmart Latex Exterior Paint. It appears to
be sticking pretty well and holding up ok.
eric
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and smooth as much as I could until I got sick of
sanding and gave up. Then I used Glidden Gripper
Primer and Walmart Latex Exterior Paint. It appears to
be sticking pretty well and holding up ok.
eric
__________________________________
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Thanks John and Sam for the replies - that's exactly what I needed to
know. By coincidence, I was planning to use Behr porch enamel myself.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John Bell" <smallboatdesigner@m...>
wrote:
know. By coincidence, I was planning to use Behr porch enamel myself.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John Bell" <smallboatdesigner@m...>
wrote:
> I had good luck with Behr porch and floor latex enamel over aZinnser
> exterior latex primer. Leaving off the primer hurt adhesion toepoxy, so I
> hosed off (literally!) the topcoat and primed.to
>
> JB
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "adventures_in_astrophotography" <jkolb@d...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 3:46 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Latex Paint
>
>
> >
> >
> > I've seen a couple of articles by PB&F recommending good
> > old latex house paint for boats large and small, at least for
> > topsides. I'm all for this as it would be considerably less
> > expensive, not to mention safer to apply, than the exotic two-part
> > polyurethanes and other paint systems, so I'd like to try it on my
> > almost-ready-for-paint FastBrick. One issue I've never seen
> > addressed is what, if any, primer is needed to get latex to stick
> > an epoxy/fiberglass hull. A fax to Bolger a week and a half agoon
> > this topic has yet to get a reply. Anybody ever get latex tostick
> > to glass/epoxy? If so, how did you do it?posts
> >
> > Jon Kolb
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away01930, Fax:
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> almost-ready-for-paint FastBrick.I hope I haven't missed your photos
> Jon Kolb
of construction of your FastBrick,
I am very curious to learn more.
Jon,
Two or three cents worth: I've used Zinsser's 'Bullseye 123' primer with
good success putting latex onto epoxy, latex takes about three weeks to
cure. It appears hard dry much faster, but will soften on immersion.
Although general durability is good, some plastics seem to 'stick' to the
latex topcoat and do more damage than mere abrasion would warrant. Beware
PVC trailer guides. Touch-up is a dream, of course.
cheers
Derek
Two or three cents worth: I've used Zinsser's 'Bullseye 123' primer with
good success putting latex onto epoxy, latex takes about three weeks to
cure. It appears hard dry much faster, but will soften on immersion.
Although general durability is good, some plastics seem to 'stick' to the
latex topcoat and do more damage than mere abrasion would warrant. Beware
PVC trailer guides. Touch-up is a dream, of course.
cheers
Derek
I had good luck with Behr porch and floor latex enamel over a Zinnser
exterior latex primer. Leaving off the primer hurt adhesion to epoxy, so I
hosed off (literally!) the topcoat and primed.
JB
exterior latex primer. Leaving off the primer hurt adhesion to epoxy, so I
hosed off (literally!) the topcoat and primed.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "adventures_in_astrophotography" <jkolb@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 3:46 PM
Subject: [bolger] Latex Paint
>
>
> I've seen a couple of articles by PB&F recommending good
> old latex house paint for boats large and small, at least for
> topsides. I'm all for this as it would be considerably less
> expensive, not to mention safer to apply, than the exotic two-part
> polyurethanes and other paint systems, so I'd like to try it on my
> almost-ready-for-paint FastBrick. One issue I've never seen
> addressed is what, if any, primer is needed to get latex to stick to
> an epoxy/fiberglass hull. A fax to Bolger a week and a half ago on
> this topic has yet to get a reply. Anybody ever get latex to stick
> to glass/epoxy? If so, how did you do it?
>
> Jon Kolb
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Jon, if you wash off any blush on the surface, then
sand lightly, then use a good latex primer like Kilz
latex (not oil base) primer, you won't have any
trouble. The latex takes a while after it is dry to
cure fully--it is tender 'til then--but once it cures
it is tenacious. I have quit using oil-based paints
on my boats, entirely. For more technical and
complete advice, you could check Dave Carnell's
website. Good luck. Sam
--- adventures_in_astrophotography
<jkolb@...> wrote:
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sand lightly, then use a good latex primer like Kilz
latex (not oil base) primer, you won't have any
trouble. The latex takes a while after it is dry to
cure fully--it is tender 'til then--but once it cures
it is tenacious. I have quit using oil-based paints
on my boats, entirely. For more technical and
complete advice, you could check Dave Carnell's
website. Good luck. Sam
--- adventures_in_astrophotography
<jkolb@...> wrote:
>__________________________________
> I've seen a couple of articles by PB&F recommending
> good
> old latex house paint for boats large and small, at
> least for
> topsides. I'm all for this as it would be
> considerably less
> expensive, not to mention safer to apply, than the
> exotic two-part
> polyurethanes and other paint systems, so I'd like
> to try it on my
> almost-ready-for-paint FastBrick. One issue I've
> never seen
> addressed is what, if any, primer is needed to get
> latex to stick to
> an epoxy/fiberglass hull. A fax to Bolger a week
> and a half ago on
> this topic has yet to get a reply. Anybody ever get
> latex to stick
> to glass/epoxy? If so, how did you do it?
>
> Jon Kolb
>
>
>
>
Do you Yahoo!?
Meet the all-new My Yahoo! - Try it today!
http://my.yahoo.com
I've seen a couple of articles by PB&F recommending good
old latex house paint for boats large and small, at least for
topsides. I'm all for this as it would be considerably less
expensive, not to mention safer to apply, than the exotic two-part
polyurethanes and other paint systems, so I'd like to try it on my
almost-ready-for-paint FastBrick. One issue I've never seen
addressed is what, if any, primer is needed to get latex to stick to
an epoxy/fiberglass hull. A fax to Bolger a week and a half ago on
this topic has yet to get a reply. Anybody ever get latex to stick
to glass/epoxy? If so, how did you do it?
Jon Kolb
old latex house paint for boats large and small, at least for
topsides. I'm all for this as it would be considerably less
expensive, not to mention safer to apply, than the exotic two-part
polyurethanes and other paint systems, so I'd like to try it on my
almost-ready-for-paint FastBrick. One issue I've never seen
addressed is what, if any, primer is needed to get latex to stick to
an epoxy/fiberglass hull. A fax to Bolger a week and a half ago on
this topic has yet to get a reply. Anybody ever get latex to stick
to glass/epoxy? If so, how did you do it?
Jon Kolb
Regarding 100% acrylic latex paint, some of the credit for pioneering this has
to go to Dave Carnell who has suggested it in print and tried it on his own
boats - even those that live in the water.
Last week I put 5 quarts of glossy exterior latex on a Catalina 22. It doesn't
sparkle, but it works. The good news and the bad news:
Bad- it may be dry to the touch quick enough, but remains relatively soft for
some time. A year ago I did the wife's 60 hour canoe (that's no typo for those
who know) and was sad to see how moderate use put scratches into it. Go ahead
and put a small craft in the water, but trailering, beaching, or kissing the
dock will leave a mark. With time it sets up harder.
The GOOD news... Touch up is an absolute piece of cake. Keep some of the paint
in a little baby food bottle, grab a brush and retouch.
A couple other thoughts. I went over old paint and fiberglass without primer,
but virgin plywood wants a good exterior latex primer. If you cannot get a good
finish with a roller and a good (spelled expensive) brush, try adding a little
water to get it to flow. Better flowing means it's more likely to sag and run,
so beware.
Lastly, the killer for plywood is checking, and I keep recalling the old posts
where builders (after all epoxying was done) added thinned linseed oil - lots of
it, several times, and wiped off the excess. Then they used an oil based enamel
(see previous porch paint endorsement). They claimed no checking even on boats
rolled over and left outside. Now that would be worth investigating!
Payson claims it is a shame to put a second rate paint job on a first rate
project, but folks do it because they don't know how. I agree, but remind you
that if you make a little mistake, "you can't see it from my house" so go use
the boat and touch it up as you go. There, that's everything I know.
Jim
to go to Dave Carnell who has suggested it in print and tried it on his own
boats - even those that live in the water.
Last week I put 5 quarts of glossy exterior latex on a Catalina 22. It doesn't
sparkle, but it works. The good news and the bad news:
Bad- it may be dry to the touch quick enough, but remains relatively soft for
some time. A year ago I did the wife's 60 hour canoe (that's no typo for those
who know) and was sad to see how moderate use put scratches into it. Go ahead
and put a small craft in the water, but trailering, beaching, or kissing the
dock will leave a mark. With time it sets up harder.
The GOOD news... Touch up is an absolute piece of cake. Keep some of the paint
in a little baby food bottle, grab a brush and retouch.
A couple other thoughts. I went over old paint and fiberglass without primer,
but virgin plywood wants a good exterior latex primer. If you cannot get a good
finish with a roller and a good (spelled expensive) brush, try adding a little
water to get it to flow. Better flowing means it's more likely to sag and run,
so beware.
Lastly, the killer for plywood is checking, and I keep recalling the old posts
where builders (after all epoxying was done) added thinned linseed oil - lots of
it, several times, and wiped off the excess. Then they used an oil based enamel
(see previous porch paint endorsement). They claimed no checking even on boats
rolled over and left outside. Now that would be worth investigating!
Payson claims it is a shame to put a second rate paint job on a first rate
project, but folks do it because they don't know how. I agree, but remind you
that if you make a little mistake, "you can't see it from my house" so go use
the boat and touch it up as you go. There, that's everything I know.
Jim