Re: [bolger] Re: Ultralight Tortoise
On Jan 30, 2008 9:28 PM, Mark Albanese <marka@...> wrote:
I also installed a couple pieces of 8" rope, tied to a 3/4" wooden
dowel, which serves as a handle at the midships balance point. Then I
can lightly rest a gunnel on my left shoulder (about 10 pounds), and
at the same time (with my left hand) lift the other twenty pounds. I
could carry my Tortoise around in that way all day long.
gunnels it extends forward, serving as a gusset reinforcement, of
sorts, for the sides.
This is not to say that the curved after deck is an easy change to the
genuine Bolger straight deck edge. Curving is *definitely* more work.
If your Tortoise is for rowing, do it the straight Bolger way.
I just like spending lazy afternoons MAIB, sailing that Tortoise
around and around in circles. Leaning back and lounging on a curved
backrest is worth the extra trouble spent building.
need some purchase to grab on to). Trim it to length after the glue
sets.
> The standard Torti is about 50#. Bruce, yours is probably down to 30I never feel the need to drag mine.
> or 35. That's a big difference swinging it up on the car.
> An ultralight interests me because I'd have to carry and drag it
> across the flats over to the water.
I also installed a couple pieces of 8" rope, tied to a 3/4" wooden
dowel, which serves as a handle at the midships balance point. Then I
can lightly rest a gunnel on my left shoulder (about 10 pounds), and
at the same time (with my left hand) lift the other twenty pounds. I
could carry my Tortoise around in that way all day long.
> Your curved afterdeck is very nice. Guess the curve should be addedI chose to split the difference, the midships cuts aft, and at the
> to the standard dimension rather than cut from it.
gunnels it extends forward, serving as a gusset reinforcement, of
sorts, for the sides.
This is not to say that the curved after deck is an easy change to the
genuine Bolger straight deck edge. Curving is *definitely* more work.
If your Tortoise is for rowing, do it the straight Bolger way.
I just like spending lazy afternoons MAIB, sailing that Tortoise
around and around in circles. Leaning back and lounging on a curved
backrest is worth the extra trouble spent building.
> With a 1/8th bottom the keelson seems an amenityl! A 6' fir 2x2Use at least an 8 footer, because the bend is quite tight (and you
need some purchase to grab on to). Trim it to length after the glue
sets.
The standard Torti is about 50#. Bruce, yours is probably down to 30
or 35. That's a big difference swinging it up on the car.
An ultralight interests me because I'd have to carry and drag it
across the flats over to the water.
Your curved afterdeck is very nice. Guess the curve should be added
to the standard dimension rather than cut from it.
With a 1/8th bottom the keelson seems an amenityl! A 6' fir 2x2
weighs only 3 or 4 pounds, still saving 8 or 10 over a 1/8th sides
and clean 1/4" bottom option that promotes skidding across the mud.
No doubt it helps get a better bite in the water though
.
or 35. That's a big difference swinging it up on the car.
An ultralight interests me because I'd have to carry and drag it
across the flats over to the water.
Your curved afterdeck is very nice. Guess the curve should be added
to the standard dimension rather than cut from it.
With a 1/8th bottom the keelson seems an amenityl! A 6' fir 2x2
weighs only 3 or 4 pounds, still saving 8 or 10 over a 1/8th sides
and clean 1/4" bottom option that promotes skidding across the mud.
No doubt it helps get a better bite in the water though
.
On Jan 28, 2008, at 8:59 AM, Bruce Hallman wrote:
> On Jan 27, 2008 3:52 PM, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
>>
>> How much does it weigh Bruce?
>>
>> HJ
>>
>
> Sorry to say I don't remember if I have weighed it. It is noticably
> lighter in my perception, (having owned a 1/4" Tortoise before).
> Personal values may differ, but for me, lightness is paramount for
> enjoyment. Hoisting to cartop single handed, light weight is very
> important to me!
>
> Two other things of note about her, I really like the curved after
> deck which forms a curved backrest. It allows me to sail around
> lazily, without the discomfort of the 90degree deck of a 'per plans'
> Tortoise cutting into my lower back. Also, I added an exterior
> keelson (bent from three 1/2" strips) to finish 1 1/2" square on the
> centerline. I think it helps her track just a little, and certainly
> firms up the oilcanning (not that oilcanning is necessarily a real
> concern).
>
> Two other things of note ...And a third thought:
Having built a Tortoise both with the inside leeboard slot, and with
an exterior leeboard mount;
I favor the interior type because it is easy, narrower and stronger.
On Jan 27, 2008 3:52 PM, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
lighter in my perception, (having owned a 1/4" Tortoise before).
Personal values may differ, but for me, lightness is paramount for
enjoyment. Hoisting to cartop single handed, light weight is very
important to me!
Two other things of note about her, I really like the curved after
deck which forms a curved backrest. It allows me to sail around
lazily, without the discomfort of the 90degree deck of a 'per plans'
Tortoise cutting into my lower back. Also, I added an exterior
keelson (bent from three 1/2" strips) to finish 1 1/2" square on the
centerline. I think it helps her track just a little, and certainly
firms up the oilcanning (not that oilcanning is necessarily a real
concern).
>Sorry to say I don't remember if I have weighed it. It is noticably
> How much does it weigh Bruce?
>
> HJ
lighter in my perception, (having owned a 1/4" Tortoise before).
Personal values may differ, but for me, lightness is paramount for
enjoyment. Hoisting to cartop single handed, light weight is very
important to me!
Two other things of note about her, I really like the curved after
deck which forms a curved backrest. It allows me to sail around
lazily, without the discomfort of the 90degree deck of a 'per plans'
Tortoise cutting into my lower back. Also, I added an exterior
keelson (bent from three 1/2" strips) to finish 1 1/2" square on the
centerline. I think it helps her track just a little, and certainly
firms up the oilcanning (not that oilcanning is necessarily a real
concern).
How much does it weigh Bruce?
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
>> 1/8th inch model. Will you comment on how much weaker this boat
>> turned out and the conditions in you've dared to use it, please?
>> Mark
>>
>
> 1/8" was plenty strong enough! I took her out sailing in Clear Lake,
> last summer, on a strong wind, perhaps 20 mph, with about 3 mile fetch
> on a lee shore, with big white caps (relative to a 5'4" boat) Got her
> up to hull speed+, to the point where when running from the wind, and
> while 'surfing' down the waves, the bow wave was pushing up on the
> forward transom with roiling water. I wouldn't recommend it in cold
> water, but in warm water I found it exhilarating, and plenty strong.
>
>
>
> 1/8th inch model. Will you comment on how much weaker this boat1/8" was plenty strong enough! I took her out sailing in Clear Lake,
> turned out and the conditions in you've dared to use it, please?
> Mark
last summer, on a strong wind, perhaps 20 mph, with about 3 mile fetch
on a lee shore, with big white caps (relative to a 5'4" boat) Got her
up to hull speed+, to the point where when running from the wind, and
while 'surfing' down the waves, the bow wave was pushing up on the
forward transom with roiling water. I wouldn't recommend it in cold
water, but in warm water I found it exhilarating, and plenty strong.
Bruce,
I've got an old flatwater sharpie kayak built with 1/8" stuff and a
3/16th" Mouseboat. Both seem plenty strong. I even left the decks and
gunn'ls off the Mouse to save the weight.
Am thinking the curved after deck Tortoise in your flickr pics is the
1/8th inch model. Will you comment on how much weaker this boat
turned out and the conditions in you've dared to use it, please?
Mark
I've got an old flatwater sharpie kayak built with 1/8" stuff and a
3/16th" Mouseboat. Both seem plenty strong. I even left the decks and
gunn'ls off the Mouse to save the weight.
Am thinking the curved after deck Tortoise in your flickr pics is the
1/8th inch model. Will you comment on how much weaker this boat
turned out and the conditions in you've dared to use it, please?
Mark
On Jan 12, 2008, at 3:19 PM, Bruce Hallman wrote:
>>
>>
>
> Both the deck and the foam add weight. To each their own of course,
> but in my case, (I have built two Tortoise's) , on the second Tortoise
> I used 1/8" plywood instead of the specified 1/4", and as result I got
> a weaker and lighter boat. I am very happy with the light weight.
> If you build Brick you can put a small foredeck on her and put the mastBoth the deck and the foam add weight. To each their own of course,
> in the center. That way you have fore and aft decks to put foam
> flotation under.
but in my case, (I have built two Tortoise's) , on the second Tortoise
I used 1/8" plywood instead of the specified 1/4", and as result I got
a weaker and lighter boat. I am very happy with the light weight.
However, rowing the boat through a chop was a breeze, that' the trade
off and...the reason you need many boats.
Almost took a saw to a pile o' Okoume today to start June Bug, but the
nice January weather got the better of me.
David Jost
off and...the reason you need many boats.
Almost took a saw to a pile o' Okoume today to start June Bug, but the
nice January weather got the better of me.
David Jost
Hi Tri,
I've built both Brick and standard Nymph. Brick is very easy to build
and will give you stretch out room. The standard Nymph was tender and
had no good place to sprawl when sailing. Maybe these problems are
resolved in the Ruben's Nymph.
If you build Brick you can put a small foredeck on her and put the mast
in the center. That way you have fore and aft decks to put foam
flotation under.
Reed
I've built both Brick and standard Nymph. Brick is very easy to build
and will give you stretch out room. The standard Nymph was tender and
had no good place to sprawl when sailing. Maybe these problems are
resolved in the Ruben's Nymph.
If you build Brick you can put a small foredeck on her and put the mast
in the center. That way you have fore and aft decks to put foam
flotation under.
Reed
Hi Clyde -
Go with the Rubens Nymph. I've built several regular Nymphs and they can be rather tender when getting in or out so the Rubens will solve this for you. To me the construction is simple and a friend & I built 4 in a weekend. The Brick is just a simple box but you'll learn so much more building the Rubens and she'll look like a boat when finished. Herb Payson has a book out where he shows how to do the whole thing.
Aloha - Jack Spoering
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Go with the Rubens Nymph. I've built several regular Nymphs and they can be rather tender when getting in or out so the Rubens will solve this for you. To me the construction is simple and a friend & I built 4 in a weekend. The Brick is just a simple box but you'll learn so much more building the Rubens and she'll look like a boat when finished. Herb Payson has a book out where he shows how to do the whole thing.
Aloha - Jack Spoering
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I don't know the particulars of the Rubens Nymph, but I've built several
standard nymphs plus one that I added 6 inches to the centerline making it
wider and found that all sailed nicely and were burdensome, the wider one
allowed for longer oars, I've had three adults in it too. Tim P Anderson
_____
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Clyde Wisner
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 5:34 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] brick or reubens nymph?
Junebug
Tri Robinson wrote:
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
standard nymphs plus one that I added 6 inches to the centerline making it
wider and found that all sailed nicely and were burdensome, the wider one
allowed for longer oars, I've had three adults in it too. Tim P Anderson
_____
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Clyde Wisner
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 5:34 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] brick or reubens nymph?
Junebug
Tri Robinson wrote:
> Just seeking a little advice. I am a first time boat builder wanting to[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> build a starter yet functional boat. Wanting to sail and enjoy the boat
> with family. I am looking at either Reubens nymph, brick or possibly
> fast brick although I just saw fast brick the other day and havent
> really looked into it very much. Well what advice do you guys have?
> Thank you
> Tri
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Junebug
Tri Robinson wrote:
Tri Robinson wrote:
> Just seeking a little advice. I am a first time boat builder wanting to[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> build a starter yet functional boat. Wanting to sail and enjoy the boat
> with family. I am looking at either Reubens nymph, brick or possibly
> fast brick although I just saw fast brick the other day and havent
> really looked into it very much. Well what advice do you guys have?
> Thank you
> Tri
>
>
Probobly not a thing to base a decision on, but surely a part of the
decision might be what boat will you learn the most from building and
sailing. That is if you intend to build more and bigger boats. Pleasure
of use is the big thing and of course safty.
Doug
dnjost wrote:
decision might be what boat will you learn the most from building and
sailing. That is if you intend to build more and bigger boats. Pleasure
of use is the big thing and of course safty.
Doug
dnjost wrote:
>
> > Therefore, light weight is paramount.
>
> I couldn't agree more. I have 3 projects underway: Birdwatcher II,
> Clam Skiff, and June Bug. Despite the merits of each design, I know
> that June Bug will be used the most. Just the way it is.
>
> I live too close to the Concord, Charles, and Sudbury rivers and
> despite my love of ocean sailing. The reality of getting a "quick one
> in" is the norm, not the exception.
>
> Updates this weekend.
>
> David Jost
>
>
> Therefore, light weight is paramount.I couldn't agree more. I have 3 projects underway: Birdwatcher II,
Clam Skiff, and June Bug. Despite the merits of each design, I know
that June Bug will be used the most. Just the way it is.
I live too close to the Concord, Charles, and Sudbury rivers and
despite my love of ocean sailing. The reality of getting a "quick one
in" is the norm, not the exception.
Updates this weekend.
David Jost
On Jan 10, 2008 4:44 PM, Tri Robinson <gzusinme@...> wrote:
One key issue, how do you plan to haul it around?
My advice, (angels now dancing on a head of a pin):
Build two tortoises.
They are fantastic boats,
light, capable and easier to carry around,
plus you and your family could sail race them for loads of fun.
In my experience, (with my family), heavy boats lead to mucho
complaining from the girls.
If I cannot carry the boats in my fleet single handed, family strife results.
Therefore, light weight is paramount.
> Reubens nymph, brick or possiblyPretty much an unanswerable question.
> fast brick
One key issue, how do you plan to haul it around?
My advice, (angels now dancing on a head of a pin):
Build two tortoises.
They are fantastic boats,
light, capable and easier to carry around,
plus you and your family could sail race them for loads of fun.
In my experience, (with my family), heavy boats lead to mucho
complaining from the girls.
If I cannot carry the boats in my fleet single handed, family strife results.
Therefore, light weight is paramount.
Just seeking a little advice. I am a first time boat builder wanting to
build a starter yet functional boat. Wanting to sail and enjoy the boat
with family. I am looking at either Reubens nymph, brick or possibly
fast brick although I just saw fast brick the other day and havent
really looked into it very much. Well what advice do you guys have?
Thank you
Tri
build a starter yet functional boat. Wanting to sail and enjoy the boat
with family. I am looking at either Reubens nymph, brick or possibly
fast brick although I just saw fast brick the other day and havent
really looked into it very much. Well what advice do you guys have?
Thank you
Tri